Installation of a geyser: requirements for apartments and houses. How to use a gas column correctly? How to open a gas column

Geysers with instantaneous water heaters, regardless of the manufacturer and model, according to the principle of operation, they do not differ from each other. The difference lies only in the appearance, design and a set of additional options, for example, auto-ignition of the burner, the error in maintaining the set temperature of the heated water, the presence of a digital display for setting and indicating the water temperature.

The geyser works as follows. Water flows through the heat exchanger, which is a copper tube with fins. The gas burns, which heats the heat exchanger and, as a result, the water is heated. Depending on the set water heating temperature and its pressure in the water supply, the gas unit regulation system connected to the water unit ensures safe operation. In the event of a lack of water pressure or draft, the protection system automatically shuts off the gas supply.

In October 2006, I bought a NEVA LUX-5013 gas water heater (pictured above) manufactured by Gazapparat OJSC, St. Petersburg. I did not want to buy an imported manufacturer, sooner or later everything breaks down, and problems with spare parts become an insurmountable obstacle.

The previously installed model Neva-3208 served 6 years (continues to work in another place even now). The only drawback of this model is that it was necessary to change the rubber membrane in the water unit every year. It deformed over time, because of this, the amount of gas supplied to the burner decreased and the water began to warm up insufficiently. Over time, the gas supply stopped completely.

I accidentally saw a silicone membrane in a gas equipment store. I replaced the rubber membrane in the water unit with it, after which there were no problems with the geyser.

I was inclined to choose NEVA LUX-5013 by high reliability (as I thought), compatibility of supply pipes, a water-gas regulator from Mertik Maxitrol (Germany), the presence of all types of protection, a stainless steel casing.

For three years (warranty period), the geyser worked perfectly, but as soon as the warranty ended, water began to drip from it. At first I thought that one of the rubber gaskets I'll replace it and everything will be fine. But everything turned out to be much more complicated than I expected, and the repair turned out to be difficult. Opening the gas column showed the presence of a fistula in the heat exchanger, from which a thin stream of water was beating.

A separate page of the site is devoted to the repair of heat exchangers and boilers of flow-type gas heaters Do-it-yourself soldering gas column heat exchanger repair.

How to disassemble and assemble the NEVA LUX gas water heater

Before starting repairs, be sure to turn off the gas and water supply valves.

To remove the casing of the geyser, you first need to unscrew the two self-tapping screws located in the right and left corners of the lower part of the rear wall using a Phillips screwdriver from the bottom, from the side of the pipes inlet.

The left handle of the piezoelectric ignition of the igniter and the coarse adjustment of the gas supply cannot be removed. The right handle for fine adjustment of the gas supply is held only by the casing with two clamps. You can also not remove it. But I usually remove it before removing the casing. In addition, so that the handle rotates easily when adjusting the temperature, I sawed it around with a file along with the clamps in a circle where the handle touches the casing. Now it no longer clings to the casing and rotates easily.

Next, you should pull the casing towards you until the handles are drowned and, when the casing does not touch them, move it up. The upper slots of the casing will come out of the hooks located on the base of the gas column, and it will easily separate.

The casing of the gas column is installed in place in the reverse order. First, put it with slots on the upper hooks, for which you will have to stand on an elevation, then get the hole on the adjusting knob and at the same time make sure that the holes located above the holes for fastening with self-tapping screws fall on the guides. Screw two screws into place.

The photo shows the appearance of the NEVA LUX-5013 geyser without a casing with a new heat exchanger.

Troubleshooting a geyser

The gas in the igniter goes out

Such a malfunction is inherent only in gas water heaters with an automatic protection system. The gas in the igniter must always burn, regardless of the position of the handles or valves of taps and water supply mixers. The simplest system automatic protection of the geyser consists of only three elements: an electromagnetic valve, a thermocouple and a thermal fuse. The geyser may go out during operation in case of operation of the protection elements or a malfunction of the elements themselves.

NEVA LUX geyser protection electrical circuit

Evidence of the failure of the automation elements is the extinction of the gas in the igniter after the end of holding the gas adjustment knob. To repair an automatic protection system, you need to understand how its components work.

A thermocouple is two conductors made of different metals welded together (I assume it is chromel and alumel), operating on the Seebeck effect and generating an EMF of about 30 mV when heated. Used to power the solenoid valve. It fails only after many years of operation. The bottleneck is the loose center conductor emerging from the housing. Although it is insulated, the insulation may wear out over time, and the conductor may short to the case, and the gas water heater will go out.

If the contact at the thermocouple welding point is broken, then it is not permissible to restore it by soldering, since the solder point in the thermocouple is a current generator, and not a simple eclectic connection of wires. The thermocouple should be replaced with a good one or repaired.

The solenoid valve is a coil copper wire, inside which there is a metal cylinder (solenoid), mechanically connected to the valve for shutting off the gas supply to the gas column burner. When the thermocouple is heated, it produces electricity, which, flowing through the coil, creates a constant magnetic field that draws the solenoid into the coil.

Since the solenoid is mechanically connected to the valve, the valve is displaced and gas enters the burner. If the gas in the wick does not burn, the thermocouple cools down and does not generate current, the spring-loaded solenoid returns to its original state, and the gas supply to the burner stops. So in a simple way ensured safe operation gas column.

The thermal fuse is a bimetallic plate, which, when the temperature reaches 90 ° C, bends so much at the place where the thermal fuse is installed that it breaks the power supply circuit of the solenoid through the stem. In addition, the thermal fuse itself is connected to the circuit mechanically, terminals. Due to the complexity of the design and operating conditions, it sometimes fails. I had to replace it once due to the fact that the geyser randomly went out.

Thermal fuse check

It is necessary to check the thermal fuse if the column goes out, despite good draft in the gas exhaust ventilation and sufficient air flow. If the plastic windows are tightly closed in the room where the gas water heater is installed, and the hood over the gas stove is also included in addition, then even with good draft there will be no air flow. The geyser will start to overheat, the fuse will trip from heating and open the voltage supply circuit to solenoid valve. After cooling, the fuse closes the circuit again.

To check the thermal fuse of the geyser (installed in its upper part and accessible without removing the casing), you need to remove the terminals from it (in the photo Pink colour) and short them together with any metal object, such as a paper clip.

If the gas column starts to work normally without overheating, then the cause of the malfunction has been found. Temporarily, until a new thermal fuse is purchased for replacement, you can leave a paper clip, just make sure that it does not touch metal parts geyser, and do not leave a running geyser unattended. The thermal fuse is attached to the adapter made of heat-resistant plastic with two screws. The adapter on the gas column body is fixed with a latch.

Checking the gas column solenoid valve

If the clip did not help, then you need to check the operation of the solenoid valve. It has a resistance of about 0.2 ohm and consumes about 100 mA in operation. You can check it by applying a voltage of 20-30 mV to the winding at a current of 100 mA. This mode is easy to create using any finger-type battery or accumulator and a 10 ohm resistor. The battery must be fresh.

The connection is made as follows. The negative terminal of the battery is connected to the column body (for a valve and a thermocouple, one terminal is connected to the body, in the diagram there is a blue wire), and the positive terminal through a 10 Ohm resistor to the thermal fuse terminal (terminals from the thermal fuse must be removed beforehand), the wire from which does not go to thermocouple (left red wire in the diagram). Light the wick and immediately remove your hand from the gas control knob. The wick should continue to burn. If you disconnect the battery, the flame should go out immediately. If so, the solenoid valve is OK. Therefore, the thermocouple is faulty. If an external inspection fails to find bad contacts or a short circuit in the wires, then the thermocouple will have to be replaced. It is sold complete with wires and terminals.

The geyser goes out during operation

no traction

One of the most common cases with the arrival of autumn is a tightly closed hermetic plastic window in the room where the gas water heater is installed. There is no air inflow - the column overheats and the bimetallic relay of thermal protection of the column against overheating (self-healing thermal fuse) is activated. If after 10-15 minutes the column lights up normally and no longer goes out when the window is ajar, then the reason is the column overheating. If the wick can be lit immediately after the gas goes out, and it will continue to burn after the throttle control knob is released, then the draft is good.

Traction may be insufficient due to clogging with soot or getting into ventilation duct foreign objects, such as bricks, from which the channel is made. To check the draft, you need to remove the gas outlet pipe from the gas column from the channel, and with the window open, close the channel with a sheet of paper. If the paper holds, then the traction is sufficient. You can bring a lit lighter and if the flame deviates to a horizontal position or even goes out, then the draft in the channel is sufficient. Otherwise, cleaning of the channel is required.

Faulty water unit

Also, the burners in the column, both with and without automation, may go out due to insufficient water pressure in the water supply system or a malfunction of the water unit.

If the pressure cold water has not changed, and the pressure of the water coming from the column has become weak, which means that the strainer at the inlet of the water unit is clogged. This often happens after turning off the water and supplying it again. For cleaning, it is enough to unscrew one union nut on the water supply side, remove and clean the screen and the pressure difference calibration hole.

If a water unit is installed in the gas column as in the photo, and the water pressure has not visually changed, then it is necessary to check the condition of the rubber membrane in it. To do this, unscrew the two union nuts from the water unit, then unscrew the three screws that hold the water unit in the gas unit by the cone. Disassemble the water unit by unscrewing the eight screws. Disconnecting the assembly halves from each other, you will see a rubber membrane.

If the gum is not flat, but deformed, with deflections, then it is the case and you need to replace it. At the same time, the filter mesh and the cavities of the water unit should be cleaned of dirt. I advise you to put a silicone membrane, it will last for many years. When assembling the water assembly, first tighten the screws until they stop, and then tighten them diagonally to ensure that the rubber is evenly clamped.

In the old days, when I lived in an apartment on the top floor, where the water pressure was a sluggish trickle of water from a tap, I had to conjure with a water regulator to wash. With a round needle file, I increased the diameter of the calibration hole to 2 mm, removed the filter mesh and annealed the conical spring of the gas assembly. If he missed the size of the hole, then he inserted a copper wire into it to reduce it. Of course, this is a gross violation and the working column had to be constantly monitored, but there was simply no other way out. But it has always been hot water.

How to fix a leak in the gas column connections

The left pipe is used to supply water to the gas column; a tap is always installed on it to shut off the water supply to the column. This pipe is connected by a branch pipe to a water-gas regulator. From the regulator, water is supplied to the heat exchanger with right side. By middle pipe hot water is transferred from the geyser to the water supply system, and it is connected through a pipe directly to the heat exchanger on the left side. The right pipe in the gas column serves to supply gas and is connected through a copper tube to a water-gas regulator. It is also mandatory to install a gas shut-off valve on it.

Water connections in the gas column are made by means of union nuts (American women) sealed with rubber or plastic gaskets. Over time, due to temperature changes, gaskets lose their elasticity, become hard, crack, and water leaks occur. To replace the gasket, you need to unscrew the cap nut with a key 24, remove the worn one and install a new one. It happens that one gasket is not enough, the union nut is screwed up to the stop, and the water still oozes. Then you need to additionally install another gasket. Silicone gaskets are now available. They are more expensive, but last longer and are more reliable.

How to replace a copper water supply pipe with a heat exchanger

When connecting the copper pipe, through which water is supplied from the water supply to the heat exchanger, I encountered water leakage from under the union nut. Replacing the gasket only made the water leak worse.

Upon careful examination of the nozzle at the point of contact of the flange with the gasket and cleaning the surface sandpaper, a crack was found, which increased upon reattachment. Repair by soldering cannot be applied in this case, since when tightening the union nut, a lot of force is applied, and the solder is soft, and the crack will appear again.

There was no such pipe in the gas equipment store, it turned out that this was a scarce item. The seller offered to replace the cracked pipe with a corrugated stainless steel gas hose, claiming that it was no less reliable. Since there was no choice, I had to take his advice. These hoses are available in different lengths, and can be selected for any replacement case.

The gas tube, selected along the length, was installed without difficulty. Thanks to the corrugation, it curved well. When checking the geyser, it turned out that the water, passing through the new tube, made a loud unpleasant sound. I had to tie the tube to the base of the speaker with wire (as in the photo in the middle), and the unpleasant sound disappeared.

A year later, water dripped from the gas column. It turned out that the stainless gas pipe recommended by the seller had rusted at the junction of the pipe with the flange, and a fistula had formed in it. Again, the task arose of finding a suitable replacement tube.

There was an idea to try to use a flexible water supply instead of a copper pipe. By technical specifications she fit perfectly. Working pressure withstood up to 10 atmospheres, temperature up to 90°C. True, the inner diameter was smaller and amounted to 9 mm, but there was no other replacement option.

A 40 cm long flexible water connection perfectly took the place of the copper pipe. The smaller inner diameter did not noticeably affect the pressure of water from the tap. And it shouldn’t have, because water is also supplied to the mixer using a flexible connection with inside diameter 9 mm.

How to remove and clean the gas column igniter NEVA LUX

Sometimes it becomes necessary to remove the igniter assembly, for example, to clean it from dirt. Over time, the igniter nozzle in the gas column becomes clogged with soot, the wick flame becomes insufficient to instantly ignite the gas escaping from the burners when the water is turned on. Gas accumulates, and when a larger volume of gas ignites than it should, an explosion occurs, accompanied by a loud pop. This is dangerous, and it is imperative to clean the igniter burner as a matter of urgency.

It happens that the igniter burner burns not with a pure blue flame, but with half yellow. Yellowness appears when the gas is not completely burned due to a lack of oxygen in the mixture. In this case, soot is released, which is deposited on the heat exchanger. It is required to clean the air supply holes in the burner from dirt.

In the photo above - a view of the igniter from below. The igniter assembly consists of three parts mounted on one bar - an igniter, a thermocouple and an ignition electrode. The thermocouple is installed on the left side. On the right side of the igniter is an electrode for piezoelectric gas ignition.

Turning the left knob counterclockwise opens the valve for forced gas supply to the igniter and the trigger mechanism for squeezing the piezoelectric element is triggered, which in turn generates high voltage, about 15,000 volts. A spark jumps from the electrode to the igniter, and the gas coming out of the igniter ignites.

This photo shows the top view of the igniter with the casing and heat exchanger removed. To remove the igniter for cleaning, you need to unscrew the nut that fixes the gas supply pipe (in the photo in the center), then unscrew the last two screws. Pull the bar towards you and lift it up. The jet is clamped in the igniter by a gas supply tube and falls out when it is released. Look, don't lose. It remains only to clean the nozzle with a thin wire and the air supply holes.

In some models of gas water heaters, an automatic electric gas ignition system is installed. As soon as the hot water tap is opened, gas is automatically ignited in the burner. But such models have significant drawbacks: they work unstably with low water pressure in the water supply system and require periodic replacement of electric batteries.

If the batteries are not replaced in a timely manner, the geyser will be impossible to ignite. The last drawback can be eliminated by connecting instead of batteries an adapter that converts the voltage of a household power supply into a constant voltage of the required value, equal to the number batteries multiplied by 1.5V. For example, if you are replacing two batteries, you will need a 3V adapter.

Cleaning the heat exchanger, descaling

One of the common malfunctions of geysers is insufficient water heating. As a rule, the reason for this is the formation of a scale layer inside the heat exchanger tube, which prevents the water from warming up to the set temperature and reduces the water pressure at the outlet, which ultimately leads to increased gas consumption by the gas column. Scale is a poor conductor of heat and, having covered the heat exchanger tube from the inside, forms a kind of thermal insulation. The gas is open to its fullest, and the water does not warm up.

Scale is formed in case of higher hardness of tap water. What kind of water you have in the water supply is easy to find out by looking into the electric kettle. If the bottom of the electric kettle is covered with a white coating, it means that the water in the water supply is hard, and the heat exchanger is covered with scale from the inside in the same way. Therefore, it is periodically necessary to remove scale from the heat exchanger.

Available for sale special devices for removing scale and rust in hot water systems, such as Cillit KalkEx Mobile and flushing fluids. But they are very expensive and home use not available. The principle of operation of cleaners is simple. There is a container in which the pump is mounted, as in washing machine for pumping water out of the tank. Two tubes from the descaling device are connected to the tubes of the gas column heat exchanger. The flushing agent is heated and pumped through the heat exchanger tube, even without removing it. The scale dissolves in the reagent and the heat exchanger tubes are removed with it.

To clean the heat exchanger from scale without the use of automation tools, it is necessary to remove it and blow through the tube so that no water remains in it. The cleaning agent can be antiscale, ordinary vinegar or citric acid (100 grams of powder citric acid dissolves in 500 ml of hot water). The heat exchanger is placed in a container with water. It is enough that only a third of it is immersed in water. Completely fill the heat exchanger tube with reagent through a funnel or thin tube. It is necessary to pour into the heat exchanger tube from the end that leads to the lower coil so that the reagent displaces all the air.

Put the container on the gas stove and bring the water to a boil, boil for ten minutes, turn off the gas and let the water cool. Further, the heat exchanger is installed in the gas column and is connected only to the pipe supplying water. A hose is put on the outlet pipe of the heat exchanger, its second end is lowered into the sewer or any container. The valve for supplying water to the column opens, the water will displace the reagent with scale dissolved in it. If not large capacity for boiling, you can simply pour the heated reagent into the heat exchanger and hold for several hours. If there is a thick layer of scale, the cleaning operation may need to be repeated several times to completely remove the scale.

Gas burning in the wick makes a loud noise

After installing the gas column Neva-3208, an unpleasant phenomenon appeared that did not affect the quality of the column. The gas, when burning in the wick in standby mode, made a rather loud sound, which was unpleasant for hearing and created discomfort. After thinking and experimenting, we managed to get rid of the noise in a simple way. He suggested that a jet of gas in the burner under pressure, escaping from the jet and hitting the wall at the bend of the burner, creates the conditions for burning with noise.

To test this assumption, I put a strip of tin approximately 3 cm long and 5 mm wide into the burner, the main thing is to fit inside the burner. The noise is gone. If your gas water heater is also noisy, then you can take any metal strip, for example, cut it out of tin from a tin can, make a hole in it at the edge, put the strip on a paper clip that is aligned and bent at the end with a hook and put it into the burner. Looks like a fishing lure. The paper clip is needed in order to be able to remove the strip of metal back from the burner if the noise does not disappear, although if it burns normally, then you can not remove it. This experiment can be carried out without even removing the casing from the gas column.

The water from the tap is very hot

In the warm season, when the water in the water supply is warm and its pressure is small, a problem arises that seems to be related to a malfunction of the geyser. When the gas supply knob is set to the minimum water heating position, the water from the column still comes out very hot. This is not a malfunction, just this model of the geyser is not designed for this mode of operation. The operating instructions usually indicate the minimum water pressure at which the geyser ensures normal operation.

Solving the problem is very simple: it is enough to limit the gas supply by slightly shutting off the gas supply valve installed on the gas pipe in front of the gas column.

Installation and operation instructions for gas water heaters

Before taking on self-installation or repair of a geyser, I strongly recommend that you read the installation and operation instructions.

Instructions for use of geysers.

Interruptions in hot water supply deprive us of the usual comfort. To prevent this from happening, you can use additional options for obtaining hot water. One of the devices dedicated to this purpose is a geyser. If you learn how to use it correctly, the technique will be easy to use. And one of the pressing questions: how to turn on the gas water heater?

One of the most common myths that scares off potential buyers is that it is dangerous to use such equipment. However, this prejudice is valid when using old-style models. Today, the units are improved and safe, many of them (for example, offers from Bosch) are equipped with automatic protection, at which the fuel supply is blocked in an emergency.

To know the rules of use, you should compose and represent it internal organization. Models of any firms include all of the following elements:

• unit with gas equipment;
• water connection unit;
• exhaust connection system;
• other mechanisms;
• electrical appliances.

The body itself resembles appearance a cabinet that connects to the water supply and gas pipeline. The heating elements are located in its lower part and are represented by the main burner and igniter.

How to use a gas column correctly? The operation of the device is carried out according to the following principle:

• cold water under pressure enters the heat exchanger - this will automatically open the fuel valve;
• the ignition device is ignited;
• gas will go to the main burner, where it is ignited from the igniter;
• heat will heat the water;
• products from combustion are removed through a system of chimneys and hoods.

How to fire up the machine

Before starting work, open the gas and water valves. There are three ways to light a gas column.

Manually

The manual method has been used in old style models. In this case, you have to light it with matches. Here it was necessary to perform a number of such preliminary manipulations:

• open the water supply connected to the device;
• open the main valve for fuel flow to the igniter;
• light the wick with matches;
• turn on the valve (main) for gas supply.

The downside is that you have to turn off the wick manually. It is required to master the above practical skills and keep children away from the device.

With a piezo ignition

We can say that this column is a semiautomatic device. How to use a geyser of this type? Will be enough press the button to ignite the wick in the combustion chamber. With the help of mechanical force, a spark is converted - it turns out to be enough for the ignition filter to ignite. With this method, a number of mandatory requirements must also be met:

• in order to ignite the main burner, it will be necessary to turn on the main regulator in the fuel supply;
• the pilot filter will remain lit when the regulator is returned to the main position and the water is turned off.

In such designs there is a drawback - excessive fuel consumption. Vivid examples of such speakers are the Bosch WR 10-2 P miniMAXX-2, Nevalux 5111, Junkers WR 10-2 PB models and other options.

Automatically

Possibility automatic start provide completely advanced modifications that are easy and safe to use even for beginners. Hydropower system offer the most modern manufacturers(Bosch, its direct competitor Electrolux and many others). The process of starting work is simplified to the limit.

1. For example, in the Bosch Therm 6000 O, the water pressure drives the turbine. She runs inside the device automatic system ignited both the wick and the main burner.
2. The manufacturer Bosch has the Therm 2000 O and Therm 4000 O lines, which carry out electric ignition from batteries (it will be necessary to monitor their service life).
3. The Bosch AM1E series speakers already have a digital control panel that shows everything at once possible mistakes inclusions.

The fully automated process has one drawback: many homes have low water supply pressure, which may not be enough to keep the turbine working properly. In addition, such devices are significantly more expensive than their less advanced counterparts.

Mandatory Precautions

Instructions for the correct operation of the gas column are attached to any purchased equipment. The principle of operation of most of them is identical to that indicated above, but here the mandatory observance of safety precautions should be highlighted as a red line.

1. Required to conduct preventive cleaning geyser, in order to avoid violating the efficiency of its operation (how to do this, you can read in the document going to the geyser - instructions).
2. Checking the condition of the chimneys is relevant - this will help to avoid clogging them.
3. If the device breaks down, contact the gas service . Independent attempts to fix the problem are prohibited.

In more detail, the inclusion of the unit is shown in the video:

It is enough to understand once how to light the device to ensure comfortable and instant heating of running water. And then you can just enjoy the work of this convenient heater.

Geysers are an invariable attribute of Soviet kitchens in many cities. If there is no hot centralized water supply, they are the ability to quickly warm a large amount of water. Today they have been largely replaced. gas boilers, however, installation requirements, necessary documents and the inspectors remained the same.

Geyser in the kitchen

A column or instantaneous water heater is a device that, due to the combustion of gas, heats the flowing water. Gas can be supplied through pipes, and there it can be liquefied, from a cylinder. But in practice, only natural gas is used in urban apartments. For many old houses, a column is the only way to heat water, because the wiring power is not designed for use.

Flowing water heaters often stand in Khrushchev and stalinkas. Older models are lit with matches, and heating depends on the flow of water. Now they have been replaced with electronic control, auto ignition and electronic regulation temperature.

In private houses and large country apartments gas boilers are used instead of columns. Their difference is that the boiler has 2 separate circuits - heating and water heating. The column heats only running water.

Advantages

• fast heating a large number water;
• compact dimensions;
• power does not exceed the capabilities of gas lines;
• once-through circuit: less heat loss, heats the apartment only when it is working (relevant in summer), hot water is available as soon as the heater is turned on;
• relative cheapness of use, depending on the price of gas.

Strict requirements for installation and further operation, due to the potential danger of the device.

disadvantages

• explosion and fire hazard;
• requires good traction, otherwise there is a risk of carbon monoxide poisoning;
• need a chimney good ventilation, which should be taken into account in .

Technical requirements according to standards

Technical requirements:

• the kitchen area must be at least 8 m2;
• walls and masking panels are made of non-combustible materials;
• height more than 2 m;
• ventilation hole with a diameter of at least 120 mm;
• from the side surface to the wall at least 15 cm, from the front panel - at least 60 cm;
• pipe length maximum 2.5 m, diameter - from 13 mm;
• to all gas pipes access is provided (it is impossible to wall up, they are masked only with the help of an opening box or hang freely);
• the blocking tap is close to the heater, its handle is yellow;
• the chimney pipe is not, but steel or galvanized, at least 1 mm thick;
• there should be a door to the kitchen.

Exploitation

The first start-up of gas and water is carried out only by GORGAZ employees. After installation, gas devices are put on balance, they and the air vent system are checked once a year. The conformity of columns and boilers that can be serviced by gas workers is checked at the same time. Gas workers do not service some models, these need to be checked annually by inviting specialists from the service center.

Models with a closed combustion chamber do not require a chimney, but the ventilation of the room must be in good condition.

Installation algorithm

Documentation is regulated by the law on the supply of gas to the population. The list differs according to whether you are only changing the model, device, and location, or installing the equipment for the first time.

The model is changing

• Buy a certified gas heater that is approved for installation.
• Take certified copies of the schemes of the gas and water supply system from the housing office with a clearly marked place for installing the equipment.
• Then take the replacement application, provided that the installation site is preserved, to the gas service, and the application for the repair of water and gas mains at the site.
• The work will be done by the gas service, it will also give the Act on putting the equipment into operation, compliance with the requirements.

Change device and installation location

How to install a geyser video master class:

• You will need to change the scheme for supplying gas, water, air vent.
• Come to the fire department to take the Chimney Statement.
• Order a transfer project from GORGAZ or a private certified organization, get it.
• For an apartment building, a redevelopment permit from the city administration will be required.
• You must have an act, a project, a permit, a technical passport of the boiler or column, a document on the ownership of the apartment in your hands.

With these documents and the application, contact the gas service again.

• Specialists will install and connect the equipment, carry out the first start-up. Then they will seal the meter, issue the Commissioning Certificate.
• At the end, you should have acts in your hands that confirm from the fire inspectorate, technical supervision, about the input. Information about the transfer is additionally submitted to the BTI.

First installation of the boiler

If gas is not supplied to the house, a gas supply line will need to be built. This is an expensive process and many private home owners choose to make do with solid fuel boilers. For apartment buildings the gas supply is carried out by the developer, the housing office, or is carried out by the owners in a clubbing.

• Obtaining documentation includes consent to gas supply from distributors and conveyors, calculation of consumption, obtaining technical conditions, permission for land allocation for a gas pipeline.
• Designing consists of the conclusion of a project agreement, the collection and examination of documentation, coordination in the instances listed in the previous paragraph.
• Construction consists of building and installation work(edit walls) and commissioning.
• At the end, an agreement on gas supply is concluded in GORGAZ or OBLGAZ.

List of documents according to standards

The list below is indicative and as complete as possible, but it varies by region. In addition, if the connection is not the first time, some documents may already be in the relevant services or be in the hands of the owner of the apartment building / housing office. How to make an air duct for a kitchen hood can be read in this.

So, you will need:

1. A copy of the certificate of ownership of the house or apartment, or a similar document confirming that you are the owner.
2. Copies of a civil passport (pages 2,3 and 5).
3. Copies of tax payer certificate (TIN).
4. Permission to process personal data.
5. Passport of the buyer of gas.
6. Your letter on the conclusion of the contract of work.
7. Treaty Maintenance fire hazardous equipment.
8. Gas connection specifications issued by the distributor or supplier.
9. Documents on the implementation of specifications (Act of acceptance of the gas distribution system object (copy) and others).
10. List of equipment using gas, its characteristics, copies of technical certificates.
11. A copy of the act on the division of property between the owner of the house and the distributor.
12. Copies of passports for gas meter, additional sensors, if any, and certificates of verification passed.
13. A copy of the page of the gasification project with the stamp of the metrological department of Gazprom.

How to build a gas water heater in an apartment:

Types of columns and boilers for apartments (including Khrushchev)

If we talk about gas heaters, they can be flow and storage. But in Russia, gas-fired boilers are not widely used, because they are less convenient, more expensive and take up a lot of space. They should only be installed if the gas supply is too weak. Basically they put flowing gas heaters. How many outlets do you need in the kitchen?

Modern models may have a closed or open combustion chamber. The open ones are a bit safer and require less paperwork to install. They are needed if there is no chimney in the house. The latter are suitable if the old heater is being replaced with a new one, the chimney and gas supply have already been made and checked.

Suppliers offer 3 types of power. 17-20 kW are needed for a one-room apartment with 1 inhabitant. If a person takes a shower, there is no longer enough power to wash dishes. Devices with a power of 20-26 kW are indispensable for apartments. They provide 15 liters of water per minute at a temperature of 40 degrees. The power of an average heater is enough for a family of 4 and an apartment with 1 shower and 2 sinks. Power 26-28 kW is suitable for two-level apartments or houses. What are kitchen hoods can be found by clicking on this.

When heaters are not allowed to be installed in an apartment or house

• If you live in one-room apartment, where . The kitchen should be a separate room.
• If you want to install a gas heater in a living room, bathroom or on a loggia/balcony.
• If the door to the kitchen is deaf, there is no ventilation slot.
• If the length of the water and especially gas hoses is more than 2.5 m.
• If gas stove or other source of open flame is close to the boiler.
• If you plan to hang the heater on the wall adjacent to the living room.

How to create heating system in the kitchen video:

To understand how to properly use a gas column, you should know its structure and principle of operation. Regardless of the manufacturer and model, the water heater consists of six main parts: a casing, an exhaust gas collector, a heat exchanger, a burner, a gas fitting, a hydraulic fitting and an ignition device.

On the casing there are water pressure and flame level regulators, power and ignition buttons (if the device uses piezo ignition) and a display. The case closes the main components of the water heater and gives it a beautiful appearance.

The exhaust manifold is on top. A chimney is connected to it with the help of a pipe.

In a turbocharged column with a closed combustion chamber, the manifold is lower and equipped with a fan. These are all Bosch models with the WTD marking (for example, Therm 4000 S WTD 15 AM E), Neva Turbo, Neva Lux 8224, Neva-Transit HSV 10 EMT. Oasis and Astra columns come only with an open combustion chamber.

The heat exchanger is the main and most expensive part of the device. Here, heat is exchanged from the flame to the water. It consists of a shell and pipes through which a stream of hot air passes. Expensive heat exchangers are made of copper without impurities, which can be seen from the uniform color of the metal.

The burner is located under the heat exchanger. It is designed to distribute the flow of gas. The gas entering the column enters the burner, where it is split into several streams. This expands the flame and allows the heat exchanger and water to heat up quickly.

The gas valve of the water heater controls the on and off of the gas. It is connected to hydraulic fittings. In the old-style Neva and Astra columns, the water-gas system is located vertically - there is a gas valve on top. In new models of speakers Neva 5611, 4511 (how to use speakers brand Read the Neva), the Oasis is located horizontally, the hydraulic fittings are located on the right.

The ignition device is located near the burner. It consists of two electrodes, when electricity is applied to them, a spark appears. It can be semi-automatic, which needs to be ignited with a button that is placed on front side columns. These are all Bosch models with the letter “P” at the end of the marking, for example WR 10-2P.

Also, the ignition can be automatic due to the installed batteries or connection to the mains. Installed in most new devices.

The electrical circuit of gas water heaters includes the following elements: batteries or power supply, control unit, screen, protection devices, ignition and flame control electrodes.

The batteries or power supply are connected to the control unit. From it there are wires to sensors for draft and overheating of water, a screen and electrodes.

If a piezo ignition is used in the column, then an igniter ignition button is additionally present.

In the video below, an overview of the device and other everyday nuances of the Vaillant geyser:

Principle of operation

When the faucet is opened, water flows into the water regulator. At the same time, pressure is created in it, from which the rubber membrane bends. It moves the stem, which in turn opens the gas valve in the gas valve. Then the water goes through the pipes of the heat exchanger to the faucet.

The gas enters the burner and is ignited by an igniter or a spark between the electrodes. The flame heats the heat exchanger and the water passing through it.

Terms of use

In a number of models of water heaters on the front side of the case there is a power button that you need to press. If it is not there, then most likely the column is already ready to go.

If you have a semi-automatic water heater with piezo ignition, then, first of all, you need to light the igniter. To do this, press the corresponding button on the case.

Columns with electric ignition turn on automatically when you open a tap with water. When the faucet is closed, the flame will automatically go out.

In order to properly use the gas column, it is important to follow a number of operating rules:

1. It is undesirable to heat the water too much - this leads to rapid wear of the device. Modern columns allow you to heat water up to 70 degrees. It is recommended to set the water heater to 35-40 degrees, which is enough for domestic use.
2. It is not recommended to mix cold tap water with hot tap water. This causes the pressure to drop and the heater to go out. You need to set a comfortable temperature in advance.
3. From time to time, preventive work should be carried out - checking the traction force, changing water filters, cleaning the chimney and burner from soot.

A household gas water heater is a mechanism that requires maintenance, periodic maintenance and replacement of failed parts.

So, a household gas water heater is a water heater that runs on gas. The room where the gas water heater is installed must be ventilated. The geyser is installed in the bath, in the kitchen, in the bathroom or other non-residential premises in accordance with the gasification project and SNiP. In order to avoid a fire, flammable things should not be placed near the household gas column. It is also forbidden to independently install and run the column. Children should not be allowed to use the column. It is necessary to operate the device only with the type of gas to which it corresponds. It is also forbidden to block the gap at the bottom of the door or wall, intended for the inflow of air necessary for the combustion of gas.

The instruction prohibits the use of a household geyser in the absence of draft in the chimney, making structural changes, using a faulty geyser, leaving a working geyser unattended. In the room where the column works, there should be no smell of gas. If you smell gas, you must first turn off the gas valve, ventilate the room and call the gas service by calling 04.

If at the moment the gas column is turned on, the flame goes out or does not ignite, then the problem may be in the absence of draft in the ventilation duct.

These dry formulations allow in general terms understand the rules for handling any, even an old geyser. The most important danger is a gas leak, and in general, security measures are aimed at preventing this particular threat.

More often, when operating old gas water heaters, difficulties of a completely different kind arise. The column either stops turning on, or heats the water very weakly. These are the most common types of faults. Let's try in the framework of this article to determine how you can "heal" the column on your own.

This will require a little theoretical introduction. All geysers, even old ones, have one scheme, which is based on gas-burner and a copper heat exchanger through which water passes. There are two main ways to ignite gas ignition: piezo and electronic. The electronic method is more advanced, because. allows you to get rid of the ever-burning wick, i.e. in a non-working column, gas access is completely stopped. In this case, the column must have its own power source. It's either connected to the circuit alternating current, or a pair of batteries, which last for a sufficiently long period. The downside of batteries is that they need to be changed periodically, but in this case, when the power goes out, your column continues to work and supply you with hot water.

So, if the geyser in the bathroom has stopped turning on, then the very first step is to check or replace the power elements. Moreover, it should be noted that although gas equipment manufacturers claim that the service life before changing batteries reaches a year, in practice this time can decrease several times. Personally, I always have batteries in stock in my house in case the cells suddenly run out at the most inopportune moment. Owners of columns with manual ignition, in which the fuse wick is ignited by pressing the button of the piezoelectric element, or in the old and proven way - with a lit match, this step can be skipped.

All geysers have approximately the same protection scheme. Firstly, the gas is blocked in the absence of sufficient water pressure, and secondly, in the absence of sufficient traction.

If the chimney is clogged with combustion products, or some foreign object (for example, a bird) gets into it, then the draft sensor will give a signal and the gas supply will be shut off. Therefore, the next step is to check the condition of the chimney. To do this, the chimney channel is extended down by 25-30 centimeters and is equipped with a plug, removing which you can get acquainted with the contents that have entered the chimney since the last check. When removing the lid, it is better to have some sort of container for debris and soot ready. To check the traction, if it is strong, you can simply put your hand on it. You will feel a breath. You can bring a piece of paper to the hole - it should be attracted, or a lit match - the flame should lean towards the chimney hole.

So, there is a draft, but the geyser in the bathroom still refuses to work. The reason may be insufficient water pressure. You can make sure that the water unit of the column is to blame for everything by turning on the cold water tap, bypassing the column. If the pressure in the tap with cold water is noticeably stronger than in the tap with hot water, then, most likely, the reason is precisely in the water unit of the column. The water assembly is equipped with a membrane, when the appropriate pressure is reached, it stretches and pushes the gas valve through the stem, the gas enters the burner and the column ignites and starts working. The cause of the malfunction can be a banal clogging if there is no filter at the inlet (with a mesh grain of no more than 100 microns), or deposits on the inner surface of the water unit (if the water is hard, this happens periodically every two to three years). The water unit requires disassembly, water and gas are preliminarily blocked, the water unit is disconnected from the gas unit, as it is a single element - the water-gas unit, is disassembled, cleaned. The membrane may need to be replaced.

In principle, this can be done on your own, having the appropriate simple tool - an adjustable wrench, a screwdriver and a set of gaskets for replacement during subsequent assembly. In addition, once a year it is desirable to clean the column from combustion products and soot. For this you need to remove outer lining and some internal elements to access the burner and heat exchanger. The best way to clean is with a vacuum cleaner.

We have listed the most common troubleshooting methods for gas water heaters: what can be done without proper training. In modern gas water heaters there is an electronic control unit responsible for coordinating the operation of the entire apparatus and receiving signals from numerous sensors. The reason for the incorrect operation of the column may also be a malfunction of this electronic unit, but it is clear that the diagnosis, repair or replacement of the corresponding sensors and the assembly itself is already entirely the prerogative of the gas service specialists.