Do-it-yourself installation of tiles. Do-it-yourself ceramic tile laying: laying process and laying technology video

27.06.2020

The tile - strong and practical material. For a long time, tiles have been the most popular material for interior decoration, especially bathrooms and kitchens. The requirements for the finishing material in these conditions are very stringent. After all, there are constant changes in temperature, high humidity. That is why tile has found its practical application in the repair and decoration of these premises.

What is tile?

The finishing material is a plate of fired ceramics. It is noteworthy that the first samples ceramic tiles were found in Mesopotamia. In size and shape, it resembled a mosaic, and at that time, 2-3 millennium BC, it was used to decorate temples and palaces.

To date, there are several methods for the production of tiles:

Casting, when the clay mass is poured into molds, and then fired. The method is used extremely rarely, because the tiles are uneven, and its edges are uneven;
Cutting while sawing natural stone on the tile. This is a rather expensive production method and the final product is of high cost;
Extruding or drawing and cutting clay mass using special equipment;
Pressing is the most common modern method manufacturing. Finished products are durable and have a good appearance.

Photo: tiled bathroom

In the modern construction market, the choice of tiles is very diverse. Tiles vary in color, shape and texture. By combining different layouts, even with your own hands you can create beautiful artistic masterpieces.

Advantages tiles:

Durable and impact resistant;
Ease of surface maintenance
Not damaged by the action of water;
Does not deform over time
Not afraid of exposure to steam or hot fat;
Resistant to chemicals;

How is tile different from ceramic?

The technologies for their manufacture are similar, but the tiles are stronger and better (the price changes accordingly). The fact is that ceramics are simply fired in kilns at high temperatures, and the tile is also covered with glaze.

The tile has a glossy surface

Thus, the tile has the following advantages: more beautiful appearance, glossy surface , high strength and durability, good performance. In addition, tile is an environmentally friendly and environmentally friendly material.

Technology of laying tiles

Laying this tile option is a classic solution for the repair of many rooms. But it requires certain knowledge and consideration of some nuances.

Necessary tools and materials:

Plaster spatula;
Ruler;
Chisel and hammer (for cutting tiles);
Glass cutter (for cutting glazed tiles);
Level;
Weight and spatula;

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, it is important to clean the surface from dirt and dust. Then level the surface and prime it. It is a mistake to assume that the irregularities can be closed by using more mortar. A high-quality laying result will be obtained only in the case of a perfectly leveled surface.

Leveling the surface with cement mortar

Surface priming

If, then it is important to first make a screed. For baths and toilets, waterproofing is of no small importance. It is best to lie down on a concrete base.

Preparation of markings and stops

Before laying, it is performed, as well as stops for the first row. They will be installed. If the tile is placed on the wall, then at the bottom it is necessary to fix wooden lath so that the first row can rest on it.

Checking the level and marking

On the floor, the line of the edge of the tiles of the first row is simply drawn. starts at the far end.

Solid tile installation

The solution is applied to the wall using a special spatula with rectangular teeth.

Applying tile adhesive

First, the tile is leaned against a support, and then carefully placed on the mortar. It is not necessary to press down, it is enough to turn it slightly along the axis to achieve a uniform distribution of the solution.

Mortar tiling

Important! It will be difficult to remove the tiles from the mortar after laying. Therefore, initially it is necessary to try to position it correctly. After laying, it will be possible only to slightly move the tiles to the sides.

It is important to maintain the same distance between the tiles

The correct installation is checked using a level. A hammer can be used to deepen the tiles into the mortar. Place crosses at the corners of the tiles, which can maintain the correct equal gap between the tiles.
Usually, the distance between the tiles is made equal to 0.5 cm.

After the first row is laid, it is necessary to wait a little for the mortar to set. It is important to remember that if a break is made between laying rows, then the solution that is located along the edges of the tile must be removed. Otherwise, it will dry out and the work will be complicated.

Trimming tiles

When all the space where solid tiles could be used is laid out, it is necessary to start cutting and installing the missing fragments. You can cut tiles with glass cutter or tile cutter, in extreme cases, cutting with Bulgarians.

Manual tile cutter

Important!
Marking must be done, taking into account the gaps on all sides.

Seam jointing

After the full laying of the tiles, it is necessary to wait for the mortar to dry completely, and then start jointing the joints. To do this, remove all the crosses from the gaps. Can be used as grout different means: cement, silicone or epoxy based. It is desirable to select the grout according to the color of the corresponding tile.

Grout preparation

Grout application

Important! If the tile is glazed, then grouting can be done immediately after the mortar has dried. If it is matte, then the tile must first be moistened before grouting.

Before starting jointing, the surface must be completely cleaned, and the seams between the tiles must also be cleaned. Vacuuming is ideally recommended. Next, using a rubber spatula, apply grout over the seam and press it deep into. Put the spatula over the seam and run along it, removing excess. The seam should be level with the level of the tile. After the fugue has completely dried, its residues can be easily removed from the surface using an ordinary rag and water.

Installation of decorative profiles

To give the room the best appearance, as well as to protect the corner, decorative profiles are installed. Corner profiles also have a protective function. When installing the corners, first one side of the corner is made the same as the second. Then the end surfaces are aligned along the plane.

Decorative profiles for tiles

A profile is applied to the other side, which is pressed against the tiles of the bottom row. Both edges must be flush with the planes of the tile. There may be a gap between the profile and the tile, but not wider than the width of the joint.

Installation of ebbs

It is especially important where, after tiling the walls, a gap remains between the wall and the bathroom. In such a situation, the ebb will help. The gap between the wall and the bath must be filled to the level of the upper edge. Then apply the mortar and lay the tile.

Installation of ebbs between the bathroom and the tiles on the wall

With knowledge of technology, you can independently lay a tile. But it must be borne in mind that there are different ones that can also be mastered. The main thing is to clearly understand what you want to get in the end.

The high cost of finishing work and (or) the low qualification of the craftsmen make you think about how to lay tiles on the floor, observing all the necessary technological requirements. We offer you to understand the nuances of performing this type of work, as well as get acquainted with the algorithm of actions.

Read in the article

To be satisfied with the result, let's figure out how to properly lay the tiles on the floor:

the base must be primed to improve its adhesion to;
it is advisable to first lay out the tiles on the floor in order to determine how it will need to be laid, and what elements will have to be cut;

laying should start from the far corner of the room;

Advice! When laying even rectangular tiles, draw lines on the floor so that all the seams are perfectly even.

the seam between two adjacent elements is 2-3 mm. To ensure the same size of the gaps, you should use plastic crosses;
apply adhesive mixture follows with a notched trowel, forming a layer 10-15 mm thick;

pay attention to conventions on a specific material. Some manufacturers indicate in which direction to lay the tiles;
the spatial position of each tile should be checked with a level immediately after installation;

excess adhesive should be removed before drying.

Attention! When choosing a tile for a particular room, consider not only its design, but also its size.

We offer you to watch a video about laying with your own hands.

How to lay tiles on the floor with your own hands - step by step instructions

Do it yourself construction works is associated with certain difficulties. We offer you to figure out how to lay the tiles on the floor with your own hands, so that the formed coating turns out not only beautiful, but also each element is securely fixed on the base.

What tools and materials are needed for laying tiles on the floor with your own hands: a standard list

The list of tools used may vary depending on the complexity of the pattern being formed, the characteristics of the material and the length of the room. To do the laying of tiles on the floor with your own hands, you should have available:

plastic basin;
a metal grater and a grater with a sponge;
putty knife. If you are laying elements whose length of one side exceeds 30 cm, it is worth preparing a tool with 10 mm teeth. For smaller teeth, 4-5 mm is enough;
mallet, with which it will be possible to remove the air voids formed between the tile and the base;
Master OK;
knife-cutter;
plastic crosses or wedges, with which you can ensure the required spatial position of the flooring elements;
measuring instruments;
pliers.

How to level the surface before laying floor tiles: basic methods

Regardless of where the floor tiles will be laid, the substrate must be carefully prepared. To do this, it is leveled by means of concrete or by using a self-leveler. The choice of method depends on the type and size of the irregularities.

Normal floor leveling

This option is resorted to with a large differential coefficient. The work is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustration	Action Description
	The required level is determined at which the screed will be poured. Measurements should be taken around the perimeter of the room and in the middle. We fix the beacons on a mixture containing gypsum.
	A mortar is prepared, consisting of cement, sand and water. Three parts of sand are taken for one part of cement. To reduce the likelihood of cracking, about 3% of a plasticizer can be added.
	The solution is distributed over a pre-moistened base and leveled using a rule. With the help of zigzag movements, we provide better shrinkage of the solution.
	After the solution has dried to a state where it can be walked on, the excess solution is cleaned, completely leveling the base. After stripping the screed, the beacons can be removed by sealing the gaps with a solution.

Screed self leveling floor

How to lay tiles on the floor in the bathroom: important points

Mastering the technology of performing work, it is important not only to purchase suitable materials, but also to know. Such work has a number of features:

the floor surface is formed with a slight slope: to the side or, if available, to the drain hole;
and are the main elements. Laying ceramic tiles on the floor is carried out in such a way that whole elements are located at the edge of the bathroom, and the sink is the center of symmetry for the selected layout.

Attention! For the bathroom, you should choose a material with good anti-slip properties, the first class of wear resistance with a water absorption coefficient of maximum 3%.

We offer you to watch a thematic video that tells how to lay tiles on the floor in the bathroom.

How to lay floor tiles in the kitchen and in the toilet: interesting options and features of the choice of material

In the kitchen, laying floor tiles with your own hands should be started after completion. The layout and pattern of the tiles are selected depending on stylistic design, available furniture and personal preferences. We have prepared for you interesting photos that you can use as an idea.

The extensive choice of floor ceramics does not affect the basic rules for its installation. There are many characteristic features, technological nuances, without knowing which you can get something completely different from what you expect.

Absolutely all ceramic manufacturers insist: you should not start with testing the base for compliance with the standards, but with checking the ceramic finish and developing a laying plan.

Your first task is to choose the right design and caliber of the product. As a rule, stands in stores are tiled with tiles of one collection in the optimal, according to the designers of the plant, layout. Approximate variations can be found in professional catalogs on manufacturers' websites or in trading floors.

You can change, supplement or completely reshape the proposed design to your taste. To do this, ask to provide you with several samples of the main tile and its components (borders, decors, panels, etc.) and form a layout suitable for your room.

But keep in mind - upon entering the room, the center of the room or the area that is completely free from furniture and equipment (the so-called free patch is popularly called) is the first thing that catches your eye. In small kitchens and bathrooms, this is usually no more than 1-2 m². Therefore, laying tiles on a concrete floor should be planned in such a way that the center falls exactly on the visible square meters of the area. Thanks to this simple technique, solid elements will be glued in the “empty” area, and cut ones - only around the perimeter. This is especially important in the presence of uneven walls.

Offset design planning.

The next stage is the choice of floor ceramics installation scheme. There are several basic types:

Thanks to a wide variety of formats and types of tiles (elongated planks, polygonal, oval products, etc.), installation of floor ceramics can be carried out according to parquet patterns (herringbone, wicker, deck, squares), randomly or modularly (combination of different-format facings).

If it is intended to use decorative elements or a combination of colors, then do not be too lazy to make a drawing to scale. You can also request the development of similar sketches from ceramics of the same series, thickness or manufacturer from consultants in shopping malls specializing in ceramic cladding. As a rule, factories provide not only the relevant computer programs, but also special devices (outwardly resembling ATMs), on which even an inexperienced user can create their own floor design, and in two or three dimensions. BUT! If you want to arrange tiles of different manufacturers and calibers, then be sure to make sure that the thickness matches perfectly, down to a millimeter. Otherwise, laying the tile on your own is absolutely even, without flaws, it will not work.

It is better to think over the layout in advance in order to purchase the required quantity facing material. The calculation of the required quadrature is based on:

Surface areas

The indicated value must be divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone element, taking into account the tile joints. If the tile has a complex shape or ceramics of different sizes are used in one design, then it is better to draw a drawing.

Tiles sizes

The number of whole and trimmed elements in one row depends on this. To calculate the first value, you can ask consultants to make calculations in special programs (provided to sellers by manufacturers) or use the formula:

If, in accordance with the project, it is necessary to lay out a frieze and embedment along the perimeter (a wall section of the main or complementary tiles), then the overall pattern must be designed in such a way that the curb strip is laid out of whole elements, and full-length or trimmed tiles can be used on the embedding border.

Tiled floor with border frieze.

When buying ceramic tiles, be sure to take a small supply, that is, you need about 10-15% more than required. Partially finishing material will go into scraps, a possible fight or will be useful in the future for repairing damaged elements.

Styling techniques

In what cases are tiles laid with a gap or a seamless method, with a straight or zigzag seam? It does not depend on your desire, but on the characteristics of the floor material. Firstly, a monolithic canvas looks, of course, beautiful, but it is made only from rectified porcelain stoneware. That is, the most stable and resistant to temperature extremes cladding with processed special machines edges. It is very difficult to lay this material yourself without solid work experience.

Secondly, almost all ceramic products for the floor must be installed with a gap. The larger the size of the products, as well as the load, the wider the seam should be, otherwise various defects (cracks, etc.) will appear in the future due to seasonal deformations. Recommended values:

For tiles of caliber from 5x5 to 30x30 cm - 1-1.5 mm;
For ceramics with sizes from 30x30 to 60x60 cm - 2-5 mm;
For products of large formats from 60x60 cm and more - 5-10 mm.

Intertile seams: zero, narrow and wide.

The choice of seam option - straight or curved - also depends on the shape of the tiles, design features. Some collections involve laying the base with inserts, joining the pattern in a certain order, etc. This information is on the box.

So, we have come to the finish line. The cladding is selected, the layout option is approved, you can proceed to the last stage - the selection of flooring material for quality. When buying, pay attention to the following:

Tiles of the highest grades must have a single thickness, width and length (limit deviations, as a rule, do not exceed 0.5 mm), as well as the same shade, without streaks, stripes, foreign inclusions, stains, chips, small cracks, scratches, bumps and other design defects.
The glaze should be uniform, without smudges and sagging, the surface should be as even as possible with a minimum of negative (concavity) or positive (convex) deviations from the plane, and the side edges should be free of burrs, bumps, and crevices. This is easy to check - connect two tiles to each other at the ends and front sides, inspect carefully. Any deviations negatively affect the evenness and aesthetics of the future floor.
The purchased kit must be from the same batch and one tone, which guarantees the absolute identity of all elements in color, caliber and other parameters. This information is indicated on the box.
Tiles should be free of packaging and of the paraffin or wax protective coatings that are applied to the surface of some collections to prevent scratches during transport.

Tools and materials

To mount the tiles with your own hands, prepare the necessary set.

Including tools:

tape measure and metal ruler;
rail and moisture meter;
level and square;
a marker for marking on facing elements (main and complementary tiles, decors, borders, etc.);
dyeing cord marking;
electric tile cutter or manual tile cutter, special saws for ceramics for forming figured cutouts or a drill with nozzle cups for drilling round holes for pipes;
a plastic bucket and a construction mixer for mixing glue;
trowel and notched trowel for applying the mortar. The choice of the number of the last tool depends on the dimensions of the tile, and the larger the facing element, the larger the size of the spatula teeth;
pliers;
mallet and spatula for grouting;
sandpaper for processing tile slices;
mounting gloves and knee pads;
bucket, sponge and soft cloth to remove excess adhesive.

From the materials you will need:

Ceramic tiles with a full set of shaped elements;
The adhesive mixture is cement or polymer, corresponding to the specifics of the base (mineral screed, wood, plywood, etc.), as well as the operating conditions of the cladding. That is, allowing you to lay tiles on the floor in a heated or unheated space, on a heated base, in showers or pools;
Priming emulsion;
Waterproofing of a suitable type (in wet rooms);
Cement or polymer grout and water-repellent impregnation for joints;
Silicone sealant. It will be needed in order to process joints, internal and external corners;
Crosses for tile joints or tile leveling system (SVP).

Because for internal works mainly non-frost-resistant ceramics are used, manufacturers recommend mounting at a room temperature of at least +5 ° C and not more than +30 ° C at a humidity of 40-60%. Exterior finish, including facing of facades, steps, is carried out only in the warm season.

Step by step instructions

From quality installation work depends on the service life and ease of use of floor ceramics. This axiom, unfortunately, is often neglected, and the result is a fragile, unaesthetic or defective coating. Therefore, we recommend that you follow all the rules, from the preparation of the base to the grouting time.

The process can be roughly divided into 6 stages:

Foundation preparation

The quality of the subfloor should ensure the possibility of creating a layer under the tile coating from adhesive cement mortar 2-15 mm thick, under mosaic - up to 20 mm. Therefore, the following actions are required:

The foundation must be;

By the beginning of work, pipelines and other types of communications laid in ceilings must have outlets in accordance with the design of the premises. Do not forget that on large areas, uniform expansion joints are required to compensate for temperature and hygroscopic deformations of the base. When laying tiles on concrete or mineral screed indoors, it is recommended to arrange thermal gaps every 20-25 m² of area, with external cladding - 16 m².

V small spaces the role of temperature-shrinkage seams is played by a gap 4-5 mm wide along the perimeter between ceramic coated and walls.

Once again, we recall that the floor must be monolithic. Many craftsmen believe that irregularities are easily leveled with tile adhesive - the layer will turn out to be thicker than it should be. However, they forget that the cement-polymer mortar shrinks, so a perfectly even coating will not work. All recesses, cracks and bumps more than 5 mm must be eliminated - filled with repair mixtures or scraped off, and dust and debris removed. Treat the surface with primers with the required properties - hardening, adhesive, etc.

Applying a primer to a concrete base.

If you're thinking about tiling your shower, bathroom, or bathroom, pay special attention to waterproofing. To create a reliable water barrier, you can use polymer paints, coating penetrating agents, impregnations, membranes, or any other material available to you. The main thing is to correctly form a layer with an institution on the walls 10-15 cm in height and carefully sealing the corners.

markup

When marking, the center lines of the room serve as the basis. Connect the midpoints of the more closely spaced walls to get the longitudinal axis, and the center points of the farther ones to calculate the transverse line. On the walls, mark the level of the future finishing floor. This will help to correct minor flaws in the tiling process. It is better to apply a marking drawing with an alcohol marker or with a coloring cord.

First, check the correct geometry of the room. This will allow you to adjust the plan for tiling the floor with ceramic tiles and significantly speed up the work.

To make sure that the walls are mutually perpendicular, pull two cords diagonally from opposite corners, measure their length with a tape measure. If the corners do not correspond to the ideal 90 °, and the sides have different lengths, then various tricks can be used to visually level the effect. For example, move the picture or lay out friezes around the perimeter, and between it and the wall - a background tile with trimming.

The principle of marking formation depends on the chosen design.

Standard seam-to-seam or corner installation

If the room is flat rectangular shape, then laying starts from the corner. The first element is mounted in the corner of the room, the rest - in different directions from it.

Corner layout.

In a run or with an offset

For tiles produced in the form of elongated strips, it is not correct to use the simple corner method. Installation should be carried out from the center of the room. The method is quite laborious, requires care and accuracy in work.

First, the reference point (central) is calculated, the first row is laid from it, then the subsequent lines are formed as shown in the figure below.

Laying pattern with offset or from the center.

Laying scheme from the center of tiles of different calibers.

The shift coefficient of each subsequent row relative to the previous one depends on your desire - by 1/2, 1/3 or more. Since this is not a laminate or parquet board, no tying is required here. It is more of a decorative effect that allows you to create decking, brick or laminate typical.

In two perpendicular rows

To lay tiles in a room with irregular wall geometry (including various ledges, bay windows, etc.), this method is used. We mark the center of the room, from it we set the first element. With respect to this cladding, we apply two perpendicular center lines, along which we lay up to the wall flooring. From the finished rows we lay the remaining ceramics. This is very convenient for forming panels and various decorative or accent inserts.

Diagonally

In addition to the finished centerlines, you need to draw diagonal lines from opposite corners. The layout is carried out either from the center or from the far corner of the room. The pattern can be anything.

Diagram of diagonal tile laying.

After the necessary marking lines have been applied, lay the ceramics on a dry floor surface. This is necessary for precise adjustment of the general laying pattern, as well as cutting edge tiles or shaped elements with a tile cutter (including for forming figured cutouts for various plumbing fixtures, water pipes and other communications).

The instructional and technological map for facing work, developed back in 1973 and updated in 2003 by the Design and Technological Institute of Industrial Construction, recommends craftsmen to make landmarks for themselves over large areas: either from a mooring cord stretched between extreme reference points (for example , along a long wall or diagonally) or install so-called lighthouse tiles. These are single ceramic elements or a series of facings laid along an extended surface, which allow you to control the level of finish and the correct formation of stripes.

Preparation of the adhesive mixture

The solution must be perfectly homogeneous and fluid enough to be easily applied to the surface and distributed. The dry mixture is mixed with water in the proportion recommended by the manufacturer, thoroughly mixed with a mixer until a homogeneous mass without lumps is formed. Remember that the finished adhesive can be used for a certain time (20-60 minutes), so for large laying areas it is better to prepare the mortar in batches.

Elastic polymer mixtures for ceramics are one- and two-component. Mix them thoroughly before use, and apply with a notched trowel.

Cladding installation starts from fiducial point located in the corner farthest from the entrance, or from the center of the room. Floor finishing is recommended to be done in stripes or small squares, gradually moving towards the doorway. If the design assumes the presence of a frieze and panels, then laying should begin with decorative elements.

Laying from the corner and from the center of the room.

Some types of tiles with a highly porous structure are recommended to be soaked before use. This is done so that the ceramic does not "pull" moisture out of the solution before it polymerizes. But most of the products on the market do not require such an operation, so carefully read the information on the packaging before use.

If you are laying floor finishing material with a thickness of more than 12 mm or with a side of more than 50 cm, then carefully consider the recommendations of the manufacturers. Adhesive solution it is necessary to apply not only on the base, but also on the wrong side of the tile with preliminary moistening.

Can't be stacked ceramic lining on the floor with the heating turned on or when the room heating system is running. It should be turned on only after the complete "seizure" of the adhesive solution.

Apply the adhesive mixture to the base with a spatula with an average thickness of 2-5 mm (polymer - a layer of 2-3 mm) and spread over the surface in 1 m² or in an amount covering one row. Next, lay out the tiles in accordance with the chosen scheme, align them, lightly tap with a mallet or press down with your fingers. Clean the seams of excess glue and insert spacer crosses or SVPs. Next, apply glue to the surface as needed and mount the cladding, periodically checking the evenness with a hydraulic level, as well as the geometric correctness of laying - horizontal, drawing, laying scheme.

Application of adhesive mixture on the floor and installation of tiles.

If required according to the plan - at the end, mount the wall plinth from the curb elements or trimmed tiles of the main background using dividing crosses.

Grouting

Filling gaps can be carried out only after the coating has been laid completely and the adhesive has hardened. As a rule, 24 hours is sufficient.

Mix dry cement grout with water in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions, apply with a spatula and fill all joints without exception. After 15-30 minutes, collect the remaining color mixture with a damp sponge. After an hour, rinse the surface again with a wet cloth, and the next day, treat the seams with water-repellent impregnations.

Coating cleaning

The ceramic floor after completion of the grouting work has a whitish coating, which must be removed with a solution of acid-based special detergents for ceramics (Pramol Ceracid, Pufas Glutoclean acidic, Italon A-CID), then rinsed clean water until all foreign liquids and dirt are completely removed. In the future, it is recommended to use neutral detergents or a mild soap solution, and to remove stains or heavy dirt, purchase professional concentrates that do not damage the surface and do not leave streaks (Litokol Colored Stain Remover, Bellinzoni Mangia Macchia, etc.).

Do not use abrasive cleaners that may cause scratches, especially on polished, lappated or high-gloss ceramics.

It is possible to load the finished coating with furniture and other household items after 48-72 hours.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Ceramic and tile surface finishing is one of the most visually appealing options today. finishing in residential, administrative, commercial or other premises. And in addition to external beauty, this finish has a number of advantages:

moisture resistance;
strength;
and durability.

The tile or ceramic tile has only one drawback, which makes it an inaccessible finishing option for many. This is a high cost, or rather, the high cost of installation, coupled with expensive prices for the material itself. The master tiler will have to pay a tidy sum. And no wonder - the work is painstaking, requiring concentration, certain knowledge and skills, and accuracy. The tiler not only selects the tiles according to the pattern and colors during installation (plus, he calculates the required volume), he also observes the planes, laying them out at the required level.

However, you can save money if you have the right amount of time for self-assembly and strictly follow the laying technology. Also, treat everyone with respect. useful tips that give professionals in this area of finishing.

How to lay tiles with your own hands?

Even if you have never had to do anything like this, an amateur has a good chance of putting tiles on a floor or wall with quality. It is only important to be patient, be careful and consistently follow all the necessary technological steps.

But first you need to get the right tool:

hydro- or laser level, plumb;
square;
perforator with mixer nozzle;
polystyrene foam float for "stretching" the plaster over the surface;
trowel;
aluminum rule;
notched trowel;
tile cutter;
rubber spatula or jointing sponge.

Technology for self-laying ceramic and / or tile:

Alignment is a mandatory procedure, because without this, the corner of the cladding can simply be “filled up”. This means that there will be a large gap in the width of the seams, which looks ugly and is bad for the quality of the installation as a whole. The evenness of the corners is checked with a special tool - a square, which is installed exactly in the corner, and its edges should lie tightly along the walls.

Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands

So, the prepared walls, from which the previous finishing layer / layers were removed, must be plastered in order to level them as much as possible.

To do this, the store must purchase the appropriate dry plaster mixture cement based. And knead the composition with water in the proportions indicated on the package. And in order for the solution to turn out to be of high quality, it is worth using a special construction mixer or a special nozzle for a perforator.

The process of plastering vertical surfaces is simple, but requires certain skills:

first, the solution is thrown with a trowel in small portions onto the wall;
then, in a circular motion with a polystyrene foam grater, the solution is stretched over the surface;
it is necessary to constantly monitor the evenness of the wall using a laser, hydro or conventional level.

If the wall is large in area and / or has significant irregularities, then it will be necessary to plaster on aluminum beacons with a T-shaped section, 5 and / or 10 mm in diameter, planted strictly vertically on the mortar layer. In this case, the size of the rib is determined depending on the size of the irregularities. The step will be 1 or 1.5 m.

As soon as the layer with beacons sets, it will be possible to throw a solution between the slats. And remove the excess with a rule thrown between rows of beacons.

How to plaster walls according to the rules? You will learn about all the secrets by watching this video review:

Now you can start tiling the walls:

knead dry glue to the consistency of thick sour cream. Important: you don’t need to do a lot at once, otherwise the glue will cool down, losing its qualities;
apply the adhesive mixture to each tile over the entire back surface with a special notched trowel;
masonry is carried out from the bottom up and its evenness is constantly monitored (in each of the rows);
and it is necessary to observe the same width of the seams using special plastic crosses (they are sold in various sizes).

Of course, in the process of laying you can not do without cutting the tiles. This operation is performed on special equipment - a tile cutter.

Detailed instructions for tiling walls are presented in the video review:

Laying tiles on the floor with your own hands

The floor, before laying ceramic tiles on it, will also need to be leveled. Almost by analogy with the walls, but only by the screed method.

With minor unevenness of the floor surface, you only need a self-leveler - a ready-made dry mortar. It will need to be closed with water and laid out on the floor. And this screed itself will level the surface.

If the irregularities on the floor are serious, there are noticeable level differences, it will be necessary to level the surface with a screed along the beacons. A solution of cement-sand mixture.

With a concrete floor, everything is simple and clear, but with a wooden one it is more difficult. The fact is that laying tiles on old boards is by no means recommended. It is necessary to lay new ones and at least 2.5 cm thick. wooden surface must be cleaned and treated with special impregnations against fungus, water and rot. A waterproofing layer must be laid on top of the tree. Can be taken roll material, and you can use compositions for spreading on the surface. Then a reinforcing mesh is laid, and concrete is poured after it. And you will have to wait until the screed hardens.

In general, it takes at least 4 weeks for concrete to harden (rather than dry). Only special plasticizer additives for solutions can speed up the process.

Once preparatory stages completed, you can start laying tiles. How to lay tiles on the floor? Step by step, of course:

Prepare the tile adhesive by kneading the selected dry mix as written on its package. And you need to do exactly as much as you plan to spend, which is called "at a time."
Apply the required amount of adhesive to the back of the tile and spread over the entire surface with a special notched trowel.
Glue the tiles on the floor, starting laying from the far corner of the room and moving towards the exit.
The evenness of the installation is checked in each row. The width of the seams is also controlled.

Regardless of where it was necessary to lay the tiles yourself - on the floor or on the walls, once the process is completed, you need to perform one more obligatory finishing operation - jointing. That is, fill special composition a certain shade of the resulting seams.

This is done for both practical and decorative purposes. And experts do not recommend saving on the fugue, otherwise the seams will crack.

Seams are fugued with a special spatula or a special sponge. The mixture is prepared according to the recipe printed on each package. And after the composition dries, its excess is gently washed off the tile with plain water.

A short video instruction for tiling the floor:

How to lay tiles in the bathroom with your own hands

Most often, tiles are laid, of course, in bathrooms and bathrooms. The cladding process is not much different from those described above. The main thing is to choose the right plaster and adhesives. And also correctly calculate the required number of actual tiles. So as not to buy later.

There are a few tips for laying the material in this particular room:

edged elements are best placed at the bottom and in the corners;
it is worth using a horizontal starting rail;
the lower edge of the tiles in the initial (lower) row must be installed along this wooden rail;
check the evenness of the "sides" in the rows with a laser level.

It should be remembered that ceramic or tile, even when laid on a properly prepared surface, dries for several days.

The specialist tells about the secrets of laying tiles:

Ceramic tile flooring is quite popular. Such material is often used to decorate floors in a bathroom, toilet or other utility rooms (for example, a boiler room). Laying floor tiles with your own hands is a rather time-consuming process. It requires care and precision. And how this is done, we will tell in this article.

Preparatory work

Work on laying ceramic tiles requires preparation. First of all, stock up essential tool. You will need:

trowel, notched and wide spatula;
building level and ruler;
marker or pencil;
tile cutter;
hammer (simple and rubber), pliers, drill or puncher;
plastic crosses for leveling seams;
primer, grout, adhesive mass;
ceramic tile.

To calculate the required number of tiles, it is worth resorting to simple mathematics. Knowing the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, divide it by the area of one tile. In this case, it is worth considering the width of the seams, 2–5 mm. As a result, you will receive the required amount of material. Add 10–15% to this value. This margin is necessary, the tile may crack during operation, or you will cut off any piece incorrectly.

It is imperative to stock up. The fact is that the shades of the tile can vary even in one batch. Therefore, if only one square is not enough for you, it will be very difficult to find the right color.

Now you need to prepare the surface. Remove all items from the room (furniture, plumbing, etc.). If there was on the floor old tiles, you need to get rid of it. You also need to do with the old adhesive mass. A puncher with a special nozzle in the form of a spatula or a chisel with a hammer will help you with this.

When performing dismantling work, do not forget about your own safety. Put on goggles, a mask, and put gloves on your hands.

The next step is to clean the entire surface. Remove large and small debris, sweep away dust and sand (or vacuum). Then proceed to level the base. If, as a result of dismantling, large depressions or bulges are obtained, then alignment should begin with them. The bulges are knocked down with a chisel, and the cavities are sealed with a cement-sand mortar. Then laid on the concrete floor sand-cement screed and it is aligned. At each stage, check the evenness with a level. The presence of irregularities in the range from 0.5 to 1 cm is allowed.

If the room has wooden floors, then the leveling technology is different. First of all, the boards must be impregnated with a special oil-based paint. When the surface is dry, a layer of waterproofing is laid. Then, a reinforcing mesh is mounted to a height of 4–5 cm (for this you can use nails that are not completely driven into the floors). And only after that the entire area is filled with a leveling mixture (sand-cement mortar).

In rooms with wooden floors it is allowed to use thick plywood as a substrate (thickness not less than 12 mm). But the sheets must be laid on the surface without significant irregularities. Otherwise, under the weight of the tiles and the adhesive mass, the plywood may bend and break.

We markup

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor begins with markings. First of all (especially if you are installing for the first time) you need to do a dry layout. The tile is put into place without adhesive mass. This way you can calculate everything (where you need to cut, where difficult corners are formed, etc.). When laying out, do not forget about future seams between the tiles.

There are two main ways to lay out tiles.

The easiest is to start from one far corner of the room. This method is considered the fastest. This is how all novice tilers lay, or if you have to work in small narrow spaces, or rooms with complex geometry.

The second method is more complex - laying from the middle of the room to the sides. So the tiles are laid in large and free rooms. In this case, the room is divided into four equal parts. The first line is drawn from the middle of one wall to the opposite, the second is also in the middle, perpendicular to the first. Laying starts from any corner formed in the center of the room. In this case, you will have to cut the tiles around the perimeter of the room. When using this method of laying, a more attractive pattern is formed.

You can also choose the direction of laying tiles. Can be laid diagonally or in the usual straight way. The first one looks much more beautiful, but to create it you need to have experience in such works. That is why the second method of laying is much more common.

Whichever method you use, you still have to cut the tiles. Here it is important to remember one recommendation. Try not to cut too narrow strips, they will look bad. From a full tile, at least 20 percent of the area should remain. Also make sure that the most visible area is laid out from whole tiles.

Laying ceramic tiles

Now let's figure out in detail how to lay floor tiles. First of all, we prepare the glue. If you purchased a ready-made mass, then carefully read the instructions. If you like dry glue, then it must be diluted with water (also according to the recommendations from the manufacturer).

Since the process of laying tiles is quite long, it is necessary to dilute the adhesive mass in small portions. Otherwise, it will simply dry out and increase your financial costs.

The work is done square. That is, plots with an area of square meter and an adhesive mass is prepared for this area. After finishing one section, move on to the next.

First you need to cover the entire area with a primer. This will prevent mold from forming and make the surface more suitable for good bonding. Depending on the level of humidity in the room, one to three passes are made with a primer. Only after it has completely dried can you start laying floor tiles.

The surface is slightly moistened, and a layer of adhesive mass is applied to it. Using a notched trowel, the adhesive is leveled. In this case, care must be taken not to form voids and air sacs.

A layer of glue is also applied to the back of the tile. This is done using the same notched trowel. A thin layer should cover the entire surface. Then the tile is turned over and neatly laid in its place. In this case, you need to evenly press on the entire surface.

The tile is leveled by gently moving from side to side. Horizontal evenness is checked using a building level or using a simple stretched thread. If the tile is below the desired level, then a little glue mass is added, if it is higher, the excess glue is removed.

A rubber mallet is used to level the tile along the plane. It delivers accurate strikes. So you can move the tile to the right place.

Leave an even gap between tiles. Its accuracy is achieved by using special plastic crosses. They fit into the resulting seam. If the tile is aligned with the crosses, then the gap is even and neat. Such a seam (2–5 mm wide) is needed so that the coating does not swell.

Near the walls you will have to cut the tiles. This is done with a tile cutter. A line is carefully drawn along the ruler, and then the tile is simply broken. But this must be done carefully.

Final stage

During work, it is necessary to periodically wipe the already made masonry section with a rag. This is necessary to wipe off the remnants of the adhesive mass before it hardens. And after laying the entire flooring, you can’t walk on it for at least two days.

After the glue has hardened, you can start grouting the seams. For this, a special moisture-resistant putty is used. This work can be done with a rubber spatula. But first you need to clean the seams from construction debris and dust.

After all the seams are worn, you need to clean the entire floor from debris with a rag. Then the grout is given a day to dry and you can start wet cleaning.

This completes the tiling work. Some tricks and styling techniques can be found by watching the video and photos.

Video

Video about the features of laying tiles on the floor: