How to install a plastic window yourself. Technology for self-installation of pvc windows How to insert plastic windows

Greetings, dear readers. I have a next door neighbor. We've been friends for a long time. He recently bought a plot with a dilapidated house, decided to update it a bit, including changing the old ones. wooden windows on PVC. After measurements, it turned out that you can buy exactly in size in Leroy and not waste time on window companies. So he bought these ready-made windows, but does not know how to install them. Came to me for advice on which fastener to choose. Well, if you refuse him, we went together, chose, bought.

In fact, there are a lot of different fasteners for double-glazed windows on the market now. For an unprepared person, this can be confusing. On websites and in magazines, this or that fastener is praised. But the durability of the double-glazed window, its reliable installation depends on the choice of the correct fasteners.

Therefore, I decided to write an article about the types of fasteners and how they differ from each other.

Anchor dowel or anchor

The fastener is professional and reliable. The design of the anchor dowel consists of a threaded screw, a metal shell (sleeve) and an inner sleeve.

When screwing the screw, the sleeve expands the sleeve and the fastener is securely fixed. But such fasteners have one main drawback. It is so securely fixed that sometimes it is impossible to remove it back.

When you install a plastic window, you do not think about it. But if in the process the window gets crooked and you need to reinstall it, then the problem will reveal itself. Yes, and from my own experience I know that when drilling, sometimes you can get into the armature and then you have to drill a new hole. And this will lead to the fact that the entire structure can be turned to a terrible state.

If you are installing a window in a house with sandwich walls, such as panel series P-44, then there will be difficulties with fasteners. The fact is that the anchor in such walls simply fails and the strut cannot be fixed.

The length of the anchor for installing a plastic window varies between 100-200 mm, thickness 8-10 mm. The length of the anchor must be chosen based on the distance from the frame to the slope. The anchor bolt is attached to the inside of the double-glazed window. If the profile thickness is 4 cm, plus the anchor must enter the wall by 4 cm, then 8 cm is already occupied. If the distance from the frame to the slope of the steam is cm, then you will need an anchor 110 mm long, if 5-7 cm, then the 150th or 160th anchor.

Screws for concrete

Ordinary screws are also suitable for fixing a window. Their advantages over anchors are simple dismantling, if necessary.

The size range of a concrete screw (or nigel) is the same as that of an anchor bolt. From 100 to 200 mm in length and 8-10 mm in diameter. You need to choose the length of the screw in the same way as for the anchor.

Anchor plates

I already wrote about fixing a double-glazed window on anchor plates in. This is one of the most popular types of fastening in window companies.

Anchor plates are:

• rotary;
• fixed.

How to use this fastener for PVC windows, read the article to which I gave the link above. Everything is detailed in it.

It is worth noting the benefits anchor plates:

• No need to drill through the frame, as is done with an anchor or screw;
• The presence of reinforcement in the wall will not affect the fasteners in any way. The plate can be rotated.
• Mounting on plates helps out in “difficult” houses. For example, the same P-44 series.

The standard plate size is 100-200 mm. Since the plate is attached to the outer edge of the frame, a length of 130 mm is enough for any home.

I note that each manufacturer of PVC profiles has products with different widths, so the plates need the appropriate size. It is not a problem to find products in large construction hypermarkets. But my advice to you is better to order fasteners along with the window.

How to fix plastic windows in a brick?

Brick is a good building material. But fixing PVC windows into bricks is sometimes problematic. What is the actual difficulty?

If you use a frame dowel, then it is better to drill holes in the frame for this dowel not in advance, but in place. This is necessary in order to get the anchor directly into the middle of the brick, and not into the mortar between the bricks. So, of course, no one does (I, by the way, too). It's a waste of time after all.

It is advisable to choose the frame dowel as long as possible (the minimum entry into the brick is 6 - 10 cm). If the brick is hollow, then use the 202nd anchor.

You can use anchor plates in brick if you are sure that the brick is not hollow. But even a solid brick is of poor quality. And it will be very difficult for a non-professional to fix a plate into it.

Fixing plastic windows in a wooden house

An ideal option for installing windows for wood is anchor plates. And no one can convince me of this. frame houses or timber - only plates.

From my bitter experience I will tell you how I fixed the windows with screws into the upper part of the box in a house made of timber. And there was casing, and a gap of about 4 cm. A year later, the beam began to sit down, and these screws, together with the beam, went straight into the double-glazed windows.

As a result, several double-glazed windows were replaced under warranty. Got into money. After this incident, if I use screws, then only in exceptional cases and only in the side parts of the window frame.

By the way, even during construction frame houses, professionals do not recommend the use of hardened screws. Wood is a living material and when moving, the screws break, and the nail, for example, bends. The same principle applies to the anchor plate.

Anchor plates for wooden houses are good for the following reasons:

• Fast window installation;
• Compensates for thermal expansion;
• Do not affect window structures during shrinkage.

How to fix plastic windows in aerated concrete?

The aerated concrete wall is loose. Can be mounted on a frame dowel with a maximum length of 202 mm. This is the easiest and fastest way.

But it is more correct to fix plastic windows on anchor plates through a special dowel for aerated concrete. It's a little longer and more difficult. In addition, you need to buy or have a hex bit in your arsenal.

How to fix plastic windows in concrete?

If you mean concrete good quality, from which, for example, jumpers are made over window openings, then drilling such concrete with a diameter of 10 mm under a frame dowel is difficult, but possible.

In this case, it is better to use anchor plates. But panel and block houses are just more efficient to mount on a frame dowel. It's more reliable and faster.

At the beginning of the article, I said that the choice of fasteners for windows also depends on the type of construction. So I want to talk about such a type as the glazing of loggias and balconies.

As a rule, window fasteners hit the very edge of the upper concrete slab or the edge of the brick bottom and side walls. Therefore, attaching loggias to the edge of the wall on a frame dowel can be quite dangerous.

Anchor plates, this is a great way out of the situation.

And finally, I would like to say about the big plus of anchors, which is at the same time a minus for anchor plates.

When the window frame is attached to the anchor, at the time of drilling, you set only one vertical plane to the level. And adjust the second vertical plane after inserting the anchor.

During fastening with anchor plates, you will have to set two vertical planes at once and only after that make holes with a puncher. This requires a certain skill and skill.

If you or your friends have previously used the services of companies for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that installation can be ordinary and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first one (for more details about the standards, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! When manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If the windows are installed incorrectly, they will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

However, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, this way you can save a decent amount of money.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! A quarter is an internal frame 6 cm wide (or ¼ of a brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and strengthens the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on anchors, and the foam will be closed with special flashings. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening (the distance between the slopes) is determined. It is recommended to remove the plaster so that the result is more accurate.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope from above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements must be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the profile height for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the outflow, 5 cm should be added to the already existing outflow for the bend. Also, the width of the insulation and cladding is taken into account (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the received figure. With regards to departure, it should cover the heating radiator by a third.

Note! measured after installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements, the finished drawing should be taken to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the package out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached entirely. Each option has disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is installed assembled, then it can be damaged due to its large weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. Freed first workplace, all furniture is covered plastic wrap(there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. To do this, the glazing bead is slightly tucked in with a staple and pulled out. First of all, vertical glazing beads are removed, then horizontal. They are necessarily numbered, otherwise gaps form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the canopies. The handle is turned to the "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is slightly opened and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Imposts are special lintels intended for dividing sashes.

Then you need to make markings for the anchors and make holes on it - two from the bottom / top and three from each side. This will require anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, cellular concrete), then fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed on the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight pieces each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it must be filled the day before installation. So the element will not freeze through.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before installing a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be pulled out along with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawn.

Step 1. First, the seal and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is cleaned off.

Step 4 Adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. Mounting foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installing a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (it will be easier to align the structure), only after that it is fixed to the wall. Substrates can be left - they will serve as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a stand profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct location of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which the mounting level and plumb line are used. Characteristically, traditional bubble levels they are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window is straight, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall is drilled through pre-prepared holes in the structure with a puncher (about 6-10 cm). The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the evenness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the design will “skew”.

Prices for mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Mounting foams and cleaners for mounting guns

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an ebb is attached to the stand profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture from penetrating into the structure.

The edges of the tide are recessed into the walls for several centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! Before installation, the lower slot is also sealed.

Stage 7. Assembly of the window

After fixing the anchors, the double-glazed window is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The flaps open, the tightness of their fit is checked. In the open position, arbitrary opening/closing of the sash cannot occur if the window is level.

Step 3. A mounting seam is sealed on the sides. Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and prevent glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will “lead”. If everything is done correctly, after drying, the foam will come out a few centimeters.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The window sill is cut in such a way that it enters the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2 Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Instructions for installing plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already “grab”).

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are some nuances there too - such as, for example, installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right from our new article.

Good afternoon everyone!

Knowledge is power, you can't argue with that.

A friend recently contacted me with the question of whether it is possible to install windows myself.

He decided to build a country house on his own, to occupy himself, so to speak, after retirement, and is preparing an information base regarding each stage.

And I, as a window specialist, just came in handy. I threw out a short plan of action for him, and decided to consider all the questions in detail on my blog.

Look for all the principles and nuances of installing window structures further in the text.

Installation plastic windows do-it-yourself is not as complicated as it seems at first glance.

However, in order to properly install a plastic window, you need to know some things that you cannot do without.

We bring to your attention instructions for self-installation of plastic windows.

Do-it-yourself technology and procedure for installing plastic windows

The installation sequence of a plastic window consists of the following steps:

1. Dismantling of old windows (if replacement is being made).
2. Preparation of a new plastic window.
3. Installation and alignment of the stand profile for the future window.
4. Fastening fasteners to the window frame.
5. Creation of recesses in the wall in the places where the fasteners are attached.
6. Insertion and exposure of a plastic window on a horizontal and vertical level.
7. Fixing the window in the opening with the help of fasteners in the places of holes for them.
8. Foaming (filling with mounting foam) of the gaps between the plastic window and the window opening.
9. Installation and alignment of the window sill.
10. Slope installation.
11. Window hardware adjustment.
12. Installation of low tide from the outside of the window.

The last point can be performed at the end of all work if you are building a private house, cottage.

If you live in an apartment, then the installation of the ebb must be done after inserting windows without double-glazed windows.

To do this, before installing the window, the glazing beads are removed (a screwdriver is slipped between the glazing bead and rubber gasket, and knocks the glazing bead out of the groove with light blows), and then the double-glazed windows are removed.

Thus, through the window it is easy to align and install the ebb.

Before installing the window, a stand profile is mounted.

It's as easy as shelling pears: lay the profile in the right place, align it horizontally and foam it.

But before foaming, it is better to put a window on the profile and see if it fits normally into the remaining space.

If there is too much free space at the top, then something should be placed under the profile.

It is better to insert the stand profile directly into the lower groove of the window.

If the profile is not provided in the package, then under the window you need to put blocks to the height of the window sill in order to fix the window sill under the lower groove of the window. When the installation of the stand profile is completed, we proceed to install the window.

First you need to attach fasteners to the window, on which it will hold. It is best to use flat anchor plates. They should be located perpendicular to the plane of the window at a distance of 10-20 cm from the corners of the frame on each side.

Fastening to the window is done with a metal screw about 10 cm long (1 screw is screwed into the dowel at the end of the anchor plate into the frame from the outside, the second at the other end of the plate into the wall and also into the dowel).

If you insert a plastic window without double-glazed windows (with empty frames), then the fixing screws are screwed from the inside of the frame into the wall with dowels, but not completely, so as not to damage the frame structure.

For the dowel, you first need to drill a hole. When the anchors are fixed in the window, insert it into the window opening and align it.

After that, in the future places where the anchor fasteners are attached to the wall, we punch recesses under the entire fastener plate, so that later we cover the entire fastening with mortar and level the wall for installing slopes.

After fixing the plastic window in the opening, check its vertical and horizontal again. Therefore, you should not immediately tighten the screws into the opening completely.

Alignment work is best done by two people, so that one person holds the window, and the second puts the bars for leveling. We turn to filling the space between the window opening and the plastic window with mounting foam.

The main thing is that the foaming is one hundred percent. If the space between the window and the opening is more than 2 cm, then you can foam in 2 stages with an interval of 2 hours.

Note!

Important! Always wet the surface with water before foaming (using a sprayer, for example). This is the only way the foam will grip the structure of the walls as much as possible.

If you install the window at temperatures below 5 degrees, then use all-weather or winter mounting foam. If the temperature is above 5 degrees, any foam will do.

The foam should dry for at least half a day. After that, it must be closed from the harmful effects of the sun's rays. This is done either with a conventional mortar, or with tile adhesive, or with a protective impervious film.

Installation of the window sill requires preliminary trimming of excess length, since it comes with a margin in size.

For these purposes, a jigsaw or grinder is perfect. Then you should move the window sill to the stand profile (if any) and align.

If, after leveling, there is a large gap between the window sill and the opening, then it is better to seal it with a solution, after removing the window sill.

If everything is fine, then a simple foaming is enough. Don't forget to put caps on the window sill. It is advisable to cut the window sill so that it enters the opening clearly along with the plugs. The plugs are best glued to the window sill with super glue.

After leveling the window sill, it must be checked for subsidence by pressing with your hand in several places.

Useful advice!

If everything is fine, then you can start foaming, after pressing down the window sill with heavy objects (for example, several bottles of water) in order to avoid bulging up from polyurethane foam. The next day, excess foam under the windowsill can be removed with a regular knife.

By the way, you can install a window sill with a very small slope from the window (literally 2-3 degrees), so that possible condensate does not seep between the window and the window sill.

Do-it-yourself installation of slopes on plastic windows

Before installing the slopes, you need to remove excess foam around the perimeter of the frame with a knife (this should be done very carefully so as not to damage the window material). To install slopes, PVC panels are taken and cut to the desired length (two - to the height of the opening, the third - to the width of the opening).

After vertical alignment, fastening is carried out on mounting foam.

And so that the foam does not push the panels away from the wall, they need to be glued to the walls with masking tape (preferably in three places). After the foam has set, you need to make the final framing at the ends of the panels. For this, there is an F-shaped profile (thanks to this design, it is inserted between the wall and the plank).

Do-it-yourself installation of ebbs on plastic windows

The ebb is mounted very simply: first it is inserted into the groove under the window, and then it is leveled, pressed, fastened with screws to the stand profile and foamed.

After installing plastic windows, fittings are adjusted, a mosquito net is placed. Window adjustment is a separate topic that will be discussed in future articles.

source: gold-cottage.ru

Installing a PVC plastic window with your own hands is not particularly difficult.

You do not need to have specific skills or special professional equipment for these actions.

Naturally, high-quality plastic double-glazed windows cost quite a tangible amount of money, but the cost of them can be reduced if you install plastic windows yourself.

In this case, the savings, approximately, will be from 40 to 70 USD. (dollars) and above, on each self-installed double-glazed window.

Just in this article of our DIY construction and repair blog, we will consider in detail the issue of self-installation of plastic windows.

At the end of the article, you will also find a thematic video installation of plastic windows with your own hands in accordance with GOST.

Installing a plastic window - steps:

1. Installation methods - there are two methods for installing a window with and without unpacking.
2. Fasteners - types of fasteners, diagram, immersion depth of fasteners.
3. Insulating materials - what is PSUL and diffuse tape, what to place where - diagram.
4. Preparing the opening - how to properly prepare the opening.
5. Ebb installation - diagram, recommendations for the use of mounting foam.
6. Assembly of the window - we collect the window after unpacking.
7. Installation of a window sill - recommendations, practical advice.
8. Installing slopes - installing plastic slopes with your own hands in steps, diagram.

Today there are two methods for installing metal-plastic windows:

- with unpacking the window, and without such an action.

The method of installation with unpacking is carried out with a preliminary process of disassembling the double-glazed window:

- remove staples

- glass is removed from the frame and set aside in a certain place until it is installed.

After that, the frame is attached to the wall surface with dowels (through), and then the glazing beads and double-glazed windows are installed back. Note that this method of installing plastic windows has a number of nuances on which we will focus your attention.

Because it is this more time-consuming but safer method (for plastic double-glazed windows) of installation that we chose to write an article and, of course, it is also present in the video of installing plastic windows with our own hands.

Useful advice!

When removing a double-glazed window, you must be very careful, as careless manipulation of the glazing beads can lead to the formation of chips and scratches on them.

Double-glazed windows can accidentally break during their removal and transfer, but if everything is done carefully, then nothing terrible will happen.

If this process is carried out without unpacking, then the removal of glasses and glazing beads is not required, since the base is attached to the wall using fasteners previously installed on the outer area.

But this type of fastening is not suitable for bulk windows that have a large mass.

From this we conclude that the use of the first technology for installing a window with your own hands is more simple and expedient, but enough theory, let's get down to practice.

The window usually consists of several parts. These parts can be deaf or be an opening sash.

Let's now look at how to remove a double-glazed window from the blind part of the window and how to properly dismantle the opening sash.

Removing glass.

After the window has been delivered to you, before installing it, it is necessary to remove the double-glazed windows from the deaf (non-opening) parts of the window.

Usually, when new glass is delivered, the glazing beads (the glazing bead is a plastic guide that directly holds the double-glazed window) are not fully clogged and it is possible to easily dismantle them.

If, nevertheless, the glazing beads were drowned to the end at the manufacturer, it is necessary to insert a small spatula into the seam between the glazing bead and the window frame and carefully tapping the mallet (wooden hammer) directed from the center of the window to its periphery, try to dismantle the glazing beads (there are 4 of them).

After the glazing beads give in and begin to come out of the grooves, the plastic clamps begin to fall out, they must be assembled, since we will need them at the time of mounting the glazing beads back.

We think it’s not worth reminding that everything must be done very carefully so as not to break the expensive double-glazed window.

It is best to perform this operation together, since holding a double-glazed window, which weighs an average of 30 kg, and doing something in parallel is not an easy task.

And one more thing, it is necessary to store the removed double-glazed windows on a clean, hard surface, and even better, lean the double-glazed window (double-glazed windows) against the wall, if there are several of them, then lay a layer of soft clean rag between them.

In order to remove the opening sashes of a plastic window, it is necessary to slightly open it in order to gain access to the hinges.

The dismantling of the opening sash must begin with the analysis of the upper hinge.

To do this, you need to remove the spindle (a rotating shaft inside the loop), first you need to press on it from above (most likely with a screwdriver), after which part of this shaft will appear from below.

Having hooked the lower part of the spindle with pliers, we take it out, respectively, down.

After the upper hinge is disassembled, it is necessary to slightly deviate the window from the horizontal axis, the lower hinge will allow you to do this, then lift the sash approximately 5 cm.

After that, the sash will also be released from the second lower hinge. To perform this dismantling, it would be good to call a partner who will insure you, since the masses of both sashes and double-glazed windows, as we have already noted, are on average 30 kg.

Fasteners.

Fasteners, in our case these are anchor bolts, are distributed around the entire perimeter starting from the edges, with the maximum distance between the bolts being 700 mm, and the minimum being 150 (see diagram below).

Also, fasteners should be located near the imposts (an impost is a horizontal or vertical bar that divides the window into parts) both from above and below to make the plastic window structure rigid.

Mounting types.

According to GOST, there are three types of fastening:

1. Fastening with a screw on concrete.
2. Dowel nails with anchor plates.
3. Fastening with anchor bolt.

When installing pvc plastic windows with our own hands according to GOST, we choose the method of fastening using anchor bolts. This is one of the most complex and at the same time the most durable types of fasteners, where you can not think about the weight of the window.

Fastening with anchor bolt.

• concrete - 40 mm
• solid brick - 40 mm
• slatted brick - 60 mm
• porous blocks natural stone- 50 mm

Installing a plastic window according to GOST involves the use of special insulating materials, this is dictated by the fact that indoor humidity is higher than outside, so some of the moisture penetrates into the seam even with a vapor barrier tape installed.

If the outer contour of the joint is made as dense as the inner one, then moisture will gradually accumulate in the joint, which will lead to the loss of its heat-shielding qualities, therefore, when arranging assembly joints, it is always necessary to follow the principle inside is denser than outside.

For these purposes, PSUL (pre-compressed sealing tape) is used. If the distance between the bottom profile and the bearing wall is less than 40 mm, apply PSUL, if this distance is more than 40 mm, then a diffusion tape with similar properties.

PSUL, as well as diffusion tape, is glued to the window frame, they are designed to protect the mounting foam from the effects of the external environment, as well as so that moisture can escape from the mounting seam during the operation of plastic windows.

From all of the above, we conclude that, ideally, it is necessary to use a diffusion tape at the bottom of the window, and PSUL on top and on the sides of the window profile.

You can see an example with a diffusion tape in the video of installing a plastic window with your own hands, presented at the end of the post, and the use of PSUL is schematically shown in the diagram below.

Opening preparation.

The opening must be cleared of debris and dust. If necessary, the edges of the opening must be leveled and strengthened.

After all these procedures, it is necessary to moisten the surface of the opening with water to improve adhesion (Adhesion - adhesion of surfaces of dissimilar solid and / or liquid bodies).

The frame of the window block is installed in the opening, while the frame should not be placed on the surface of the opening, but must be installed on bearing supports, for this you can use plastic wedges.

These wedges are installed under the corner and transom joints of the frame and there must be at least three of them.

For leveling, apply a level to the location of the glazing bead, since the folded part in practice is not always even, due to the fact that at the time of drilling it could be deformed.

After that, it is necessary to take a drill with the attached level and drill holes in the window frame and further in the wall.

After that in drilled holes it is necessary to insert the anchor bolts but not completely, in order to be able to align the frame.

After all the anchor fasteners have been installed in the holes, we re-check whether the frame is installed evenly and if everything is normal, we sink the anchor bolts and screw in the anchor, at this moment wedging occurs, and the frame is already “tightly” fixed in the window opening.

Ebb installation.

The next step in installing PVC windows with your own hands is the installation of a low tide. The ebb can be ordered from the manufacturer of the window, or you can use the old one, unless of course it is in good condition.

The ebb is attached to the stand profile with several self-tapping screws (see diagram).

The time has come when it is necessary to use mounting foam.

During the production process, the temperature of the cylinder with polyurethane foam should not be lower than 20 degrees C.

Therefore, in the cold season, when the temperature is below zero, it is necessary to wear special coats, both on the barrel of the applicator pistol and on the cylinder itself.

Note!

Mounting foam is used with gaps from 10 to 60 mm, but if the width is more than 60 mm, it is recommended to reduce the window opening due to less expensive building material - such as brick or foam.

Window assembly.

After we have mounted the window frame and the ebb, all the external work on installing the PVC window with our own hands is completed and you can return the sash and the double-glazed window.

First install the glass.

To do this, we insert the double-glazed window into the installed frame, it would be nice if your partner held the double-glazed window in this position, and at that moment you inserted the glazing beads on the guides and with gentle blows of the mallet seated them in their places (do not forget about the plastic clips).

Then you need to install the window sash, for this you need to lift the sash and align the hinges, then insert the spindle from below and press them all the way (here you can also use a mallet and gentle blows).

When installing a window sill, it must first be cut.

Then tightly attach to the stand profile, after that we align the window sill with a level and put various materials.

The window sill may have a slight slope from the window to drain condensate, but in no case should it sag.

After 12 hours when the foam has hardened, the load can be removed and the excess foam must be cut off.

Useful advice!

The load was designed to prevent the foam from deforming the window sill during the drying process.

It is highly undesirable that there is a gap between the window sill and the frame, if, nevertheless, it remains, it must be sealed with silicone. We must try to avoid the formation of such a gap.

The first thing to do when installing slopes is to attach a wooden plank to the perimeter of the window (the inner perimeter of the window opening, see photo).

Fasten with screws approximately 95 mm long.

The bar should not protrude from the window opening, but should, as they say, be flush.

To make the slopes even, it is necessary to align the planks with a level.

After that, we attach the U-shaped starting profile to the outer frame of the window. Fastening is carried out on self-tapping bugs, which are screwed directly into the window frame.

Slopes will be inserted into this profile, so the outer edges must be connected as accurately as possible.

The next step is to install the F-profile, it is fastened with a construction stapler.

The groove of such a profile is located opposite the groove of the U-shaped profile; slopes will be placed in these grooves. At the part that is located above the window, the F-shaped groove is carefully cut off either with a knife or scissors for iron, because this groove overlaps the top of the window.

After the U-shaped and F-shaped profiles are installed around the entire perimeter, slopes can be inserted. If you are unable to fit the seams evenly, then you can smear them with white silicone.

source: remont-s-umom.blogspot.ru

Today I will tell you about how to install 8 plastic windows and an entrance door in one day with my own hands.

This job does not require special skills or expensive equipment.

But, of course, there are many nuances that you should definitely pay attention to. And of course there are a few secrets on how to save money when ordering.

I used windows that are optimal in terms of thermal performance

- with four-chamber window profile
- and double glazing
- as well as a reinforced front door.

By the way, it was the door that accounted for almost half of the cost of the order.

And the total costs amounted to 40 thousand rubles for the set and another 4.5 thousand rubles for delivery. How to buy windows at the same price - at the end of the article.

1. Let's get started!

2. We have a freshly built aerated concrete house in which 8 windows and one front door need to be installed.

First of all, we take all dimensions from the openings.

As you remember, I made overhead quarters around the perimeter of the openings on three sides (a quarter is not needed from below - there will be a window sill there).

For the quarters I used the standard aerated concrete blocks 5 cm thick, which were installed like all masonry on mounting foam.

The depth of windows during installation should be at least 1/3 of the wall thickness.

It is also worth noting that you should not try to make openings for standard window sizes - their production technology is automated and there is no difference in cost between standard size or window to order.

The final dimensions of the window are considered taking into account the following factors. On the side and top from the frame to the wall there should be a gap of 1 to 2 centimeters on each side, which will be filled with mounting foam.

From the bottom, on all windows from the factory, there is a stand profile 3 centimeters high, which is needed for convenient installation of the window sill.

Plus, under the delivery profile, there should also be a gap of about 1 centimeter for mounting foam. In total, roughly speaking, 4 centimeters horizontally and 6 centimeters vertically must be subtracted from the internal dimensions of the opening.

You should not get carried away and push the frame into the opening without a gap, because. it will be extremely inconvenient to fill in mounting foam into a gap of less than 5 mm.

3. It is important to know that opening sections greatly increase the cost of the construction of any window. Therefore, if the goal is to save money, you need to make the most of blind non-opening windows.

In the case of a one-story country house, there is no problem to go outside to wash the windows, and for ventilation, you can make an opening transom (due to the design features, it is several times cheaper than a swing-out mechanism, but at the same time its width should be significantly more height, more precisely, its height cannot exceed 50 centimeters).

The advantage of the blind section is also that you do not lose the useful area of ​​​​glazing. In my case, there are 5 blind windows 60x60 cm in size, two blind panoramic windows 1.4x1.7 meters, one tilt-and-turn window 0.6x1.3 meters and an entrance door with partial glazing 0.9x2.3 meters.

The above price includes only windows and door (including hinges, handles and locks). Separately, I needed to buy anchor plates, dowels, self-tapping screws, PSUL sealing tape, mounting foam, window sills and ebbs for a total of 3.5 thousand rubles.

4. We will need: a screwdriver with a drill for concrete, mounting foam with a gun, PSUL tape, mounting plates, dowels for aerated concrete and self-tapping screws.

Note!

Once again I want to draw your attention to the fact that it is impossible to save on a measuring tool.

5. There are two ways to fix the window frame: through fixing with unpacking of double-glazed windows and using anchor plates.

The first method requires more time and skills.

In particular, you will need to carefully pull the double-glazed window out of the frame, and then install it in place.

The glazing beads holding it are usually fixed very tightly and in order not to scratch the edges, a special spatula and patience will be required.

Plus, if we are talking about installation in two hands, then with large windows the problem will be that the removed double-glazed window cannot be tilted, unlike the frame in which it is installed.

In addition, through fastening requires precise fixation during drilling and an assistant will definitely be required. Much easier installation carried out on mounting plates.

Useful advice!

Each such plate costs 10 rubles. They need to be installed at the rate of 1 plate for every 50 centimeters.

The plate is installed by turning in the groove of the frame and fixed with a self-tapping screw with a drill (to drill through the metal frame inside the frame).

6. After that, PSUL tape is glued on the outside of the frame on all sides except for the base - a pre-compressed sealing tape.

It is used when installing a window in an opening with quarters.

The purpose of the tape is to protect the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation and, consequently, destruction. In the cold season, it is easier to install windows, because. the tape expands very slowly in the cold.

7. A six-meter roll of PSUL tape costs 140 rubles. When fixing the tape on the outside of the frame, it is preferable to step back 1-1.5 cm from the edge, especially if you get deep quarters.

This should be done so that when pouring the mounting foam between the frame and the wall, it does not get on the PSUL tape.

8. Now let's move on to the window opening. Its geometric dimensions are ideal, and the base ideally coincides with the level of the horizon.

This happens by itself during the construction of aerated concrete if you follow the technology and level each next row of masonry to zero. I started the installation with small blind windows and they differ from the rest in that they will not have window sills. Therefore, we will not use a stand profile.

9. We apply the window and mark the place for the mounting holes. We drill and install special screw dowels for aerated concrete.

It is worth paying special attention that you should not try to score them with one blow, especially if they are located close to the edge of the block - there is a risk of breaking off a piece of the block. After that, we bait the screws through the mounting plates.

10. Our next task is to install the window strictly vertically.

In the case of small windows, this will not be difficult, because. there will be no diagonal skew of the window and it is enough to measure at any point of the frame. After that, we tighten the screws on the mounting plates and take out the piece of laminate at the base.

Note!

Any window must be fixed so firmly that it can be kept in the opening solely on the mounting plates.

Mounting foam is used primarily for filling voids and thermal insulation, and not for mechanically fixing the frame in the opening.

11. You will have to tinker with large windows. The mass of each is more than 80 kilograms and it will not be easy to lift it into the opening alone.

I built a ladder from blocks and gradually raised the window 5 centimeters up.

3 on each side except the bottom.

Here you need to carefully monitor the verticality of the frame and apply a level in all corners.

At the bottom of the large windows, there was a support profile in which the window sill will be installed.

Directly under the support profile, I also placed a laminate plate, which was removed immediately after fixing the anchor plates to the wall.

12. The tilt-and-turn window is 2 times smaller, but for it I decided to use 8 anchor plates, because. an open sash will add load to the frame.

On average, it takes about 30 minutes to install one window. And a very serious mistake that most people make - the protective film from the frame must be removed immediately after installation.

Useful advice!

Even if you put the windows at the beginning of the repair, the film must be removed immediately.

If this is not done, then it will be more difficult to tear it off, in addition, the plastic will burn out unevenly (relevant for the outside of the frame).

13. Go to front door. This reinforced door on 3 hinges with a full frame around the perimeter. Opening inward is much more convenient than outward opening.

But most people have a stereotype that the door should be opened outward. When installing door frame the most important thing is to ensure a uniform fit around the perimeter.

To fix the door, I used 10 anchor plates. Particular attention should be paid to the verticality of the side walls of the door frame in two planes.

For reliability, the fixation of each anchor plate can be supplemented with a second self-tapping screw. As with windows, the door must be fully functional when held only by anchor plates.

It should not warp when opened and should fit snugly around the perimeter when closed.

14. Now we take a gun with polyurethane foam. The presence of a pistol is mandatory. it allows you to adjust the amount of foam output.

Useful advice!

With foam, there are nuances that you definitely need to know.

First - the foam is afraid of ultraviolet radiation and it must be closed from sunlight. On the outside of the window, there is a PSUL tape for this, on the inside, it is necessary to plaster the slopes or, as an option, paint over it with paint. As for the application of foam, it absolutely cannot be cut.

The shell that formed on it protects the internal open cellular structure from moisture absorption and subsequent destruction. Therefore, the seam between the frame and the wall should be filled exactly in the volume so that the excess does not protrude.

It is important not to overdo it with the depth of the gun nozzle, because. do not forget that on the outside we have a PSUL tape and it should not come into contact with fresh foam.

Approximately 5-10 minutes after filling the seams with foam, it is worth visually checking its condition and, if necessary, gently tamping (until it has frozen, this is easy to do). If work is carried out at temperatures below +5 degrees, it is necessary to use a special winter foam.

Most likely not in all corners the frame is strictly vertical. This can be corrected by adjusting the hinges and lock.

16. Done! Windows and doors must be left for a day until the foam completely hardens. And we are moving on to the final stage.

17. We take plastic window sills 20 centimeters deep.

In total, I need 3 window sills: two 140 cm each and one 70 cm long. A finished window sill 150 cm long cost me only 200 rubles. We cut off the excess with a jigsaw and install it under the frame in the stand profile.

It should be borne in mind that the depth of the window sills into the frame is 2 centimeters, this is important when choosing the depth.

Note!

Before installation, do not forget to remove the protective film around the perimeter.

We install the window sill either strictly horizontally, or with a slight (1 degree) slope from the window.

18. We close the edges with special plates, which should be glued to superglue.

As a support when setting the level, you can use a trim from the window sill itself or a wooden block. After that, we load the window sill from above so that it does not lift it with mounting foam.

And fill the bottom of the entire plane of the base with foam. Just as with window frames, foam expansion should be controlled and should not be cut with a knife. Just tamp it down until it hardens.

19. The final chord is the installation of ebbs. We cut it to length, fix it to the window frame with the help of self-tapping screws (having previously smeared the joint with silicone sealant), fill the base with mounting foam and load it.

20. Done!

Do not forget to remove the protective film from the frames, window sills and ebbs. There is nothing complicated in installing windows and you can handle this amount of work alone.

Having done this work with my own hands, I saved more than 15 thousand rubles on the installation.

Currently, more and more people give their choice in favor of metal-plastic windows. Such double-glazed windows are equipped with ordinary apartments, and country houses, and chic country mansions. And quite often people install new windows with their own hands. Depending on the chosen method of installation and the skills of the installer, the process of installing one window will take from one and a half hours to half a day. The technology for installing windows is extremely simple and straightforward. It does not require the use of any complex tools. The main thing is to adhere to the installation order and comply with all the requirements dictated by the installation technology.

Necessary measurements before ordering plastic windows

Proper installation of new windows requires an accurate measurement of the window opening. In addition, it is important to know the features of installing windows in openings with a quarter. Such window openings are usually found in foam concrete buildings. They help to significantly reduce heat loss. The main difference is that a window with a length of 50 mm less than the length of the opening is installed in the opening without a quarter. 30 mm must be subtracted from the measured width. Leave gaps of 15 mm along the contour of the opening for foaming. In accordance with the current GOSTs, 20 mm must be left around the perimeter. From below, additionally leave 35 mm under the window sill.

If the installation of PVC windows will be carried out in a window opening with a quarter, measure at the narrowest point. When ordering, add 30 mm to the window width. The length does not need to be changed.

As a rule, the window is not installed in the center of the opening, but at a distance of about 1/3 deep from the outer plane. If the installation of PVC windows is done by hand, then the owner can move the structure in any direction convenient for him. Consider offset in advance and consider given parameter when ordering an ebb and window sill.

To the width of the ebb and window sill determined in accordance with the location of the window, add 50 mm each. When calculating the width of the window sill, additionally take into account such an indicator as the location of the battery.

The window sill should cover the radiator halfway. Add 20 mm to insert the product under the base of the PVC window. The margin in length must be at least 80 mm. But it’s better not to save too much and add 150 mm so that in the future you can cut the window sill beautifully without any problems. Together with the ebb and window sill, you will be offered to order side plastic plugs. You don't need to give up on them.

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Which frame mounting method should I choose?

The installation of PVC windows does not depend on the chamber size of the double-glazed window, nor on the number of internal chambers in the profile. The order of installation of the product can change only taking into account the material of the walls and the size of the window. A suitable fastening and installation method for PVC windows is selected in accordance with the listed parameters. For fixing window construction you can use:

1. Dowels or anchors that cut into walls through existing or pre-prepared through holes in the profile.
2. toothed plates. They are pressed into profile. They are fastened against the wall and fixed with screws.

Practice shows that the first option is the most reliable. It is most often used in the installation of heavy and large windows. In the case of through fastening, the window will normally withstand the multiple shock loads that inevitably occur when turning and tilting. window sashes. In addition, with the help of anchors, the installer gets the opportunity to adjust the horizontal and vertical of the product to be installed as accurately as possible.

Those who install windows with blank double-glazed windows, i.e. without hinged and flaps, more interested in installation using anchor plates. These products are hidden under the slopes, so they will not spoil the appearance. If the walls of the house are made of brick or concrete, then it is recommended to prepare small recesses for the plates. They will eliminate the need to apply a leveling layer before the slope device.

Sometimes both methods are used in combination. Through the lower profile and the side parts of the frame, anchors are deepened into the walls, and plates are used to fix the structure. If the windows are installed in a building made of wood, it is better to refuse the use of plates, because. they loosen after a short time. In this case, galvanized screws are more preferable.

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What you need to know the owner of a wooden house?

The process of installing PVC windows is very dependent on the material of the walls. In the case of brick and foam concrete structures, the differences come down only to the depth of the anchors. With openings from a bar and a log house, everything is a little more complicated.

If the walls of the house are made of wood, you need to remember a number of important rules. First, proceed with the installation of PVC windows in wooden house recommended not earlier than one year, and even better 2 years after the completion of the construction of the house. This requirement is dictated by the fact that during this time the material shrinks. Glued laminated timber is characterized by the smallest value and period of shrinkage. Secondly, windows are not installed directly into the opening. The product may only be installed in wooden box. It will protect the PVC window from deformation. The block must not have any defects, signs of damage by insects and rot, etc. Before starting any work, the wood must be treated with an antiseptic without fail.

After 1-2 years, shrinkage does not stop completely, but is no longer so strong. After installation of PVC windows and completion finishing works it will also happen. That is why at the top between the box and the opening you need to leave a gap of 30-70 mm. The size of this gap is selected taking into account the type and humidity building materials. After installation is completed, this gap must be filled with jute and closed with platbands.

Building codes do not establish any clear recommendations regarding materials for window sills and sills. As a rule, standard ebbs are used, which come with a PVC window. The window sill can be made of wood or polymer. The lower profile can be supported directly on a wooden window sill, i.e. you can, if desired, install this product before installing the window. Or you can not get rid of the old window sill, if it is normally preserved.

Experienced builders give very useful advice, which is not in normative documents, but it will be useful to anyone who decides to perform self-assembly PVC windows. The wood is permeable. If no action is taken in this regard, these evaporations will gradually degrade the properties of the foam. And to prevent the foam from moistening, a polyethylene foam foil tape should be pasted along the line of its application.

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Preparing the opening and window for installation

Before proceeding with further work, prepare the tools for installing PVC windows. You will need the following:

1. Screwdriver.
2. Foam gun and directly foam.
3. Level.
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. Perforator.
6. A set of hex keys.
7. Pencil.
8. Yardstick.
9. Stationery knife.

After you dismantle the old window, carefully clean the opening of paint and debris. If the walls of your house are made of wood, you will have to additionally plan upper layer if a new window is mounted in a box that has already served for some time. This pre-treatment provides a stronger adhesion of the foam to the top layer.

Builders recommend using foam to fill the gap only if the gap between the opening and the frame does not exceed 40 mm in size. If the gaps are larger, it is better to partially fill them with foam, drywall and other available materials. For example, in a house made of timber, you can use segments of the same timber.

First you need to remove the sash from the frame. To do this, pull the pin out of the top loop. You can carefully pry it off with a screwdriver or pliers. After that, remove the sash from the bottom hinge. If the window is deaf, you need to remove the double-glazed window from it. First, the longitudinal glazing beads are taken, after them - the transverse ones. Beads are easily removed with a spatula or a wide knife. It is enough to insert an auxiliary tool into the gap and begin to gradually shift it. Be careful not to damage the glass.

If the window is small, you can insert it using mounting plates without having to first remove the double-glazed windows or sashes. If it is possible not to violate the integrity of the factory design, then it is better not to do this. Take a sash or double-glazed window and lean the product against the wall at a slight angle, placing it on a flat horizontal surface, previously covered with thick cardboard or some kind of soft material.

In no case do not lay double-glazed windows and sashes flat. It is also forbidden to put them skewed. Even because of the smallest pebble under the base, a crack may appear in the product. Remove the protective film from the outside of the frame. It is better to do it right away, because. in the future, this process will require much more effort.

Mark the places for installing fasteners. Builders recommend installing fasteners in increments of 40 cm. In accordance with the current state standards, the step should not exceed 70 cm. The standard indents from the impost and corners are 15 cm. If you install a PVC window using plates, attach them to the frame in advance. For this, self-tapping screws are used. Prepare holes for long self-tapping screws or anchor bolts. Use a metal drill for this. Drill from the outside of the frame.

Most instructions indicate that before starting installation, you need to fix it with PSUL protective tape. However, practice shows that it is quite inconvenient to glue it before installation. Therefore, you can do this after the installation is completed, nothing terrible will happen because of this.