Drive a pipe into the ground for water intake. Abyssinian driving well - independently

  • 13.06.2019

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Water on the site on their own

The driven well is quite common today. Since there are fewer and fewer wells, and water is a vital product, it is better for private houses to have their own well or two. One well is usually arranged inside the house, and the other - outside it, it is possible on the street near the bathhouse. Wells will provide constant water inside the house and for everything personal plot and backup water supply. For such work, knowledge will be required on how to hammer a pipe for a well correctly.

Before hammering a pipe for a well, it is advisable to find out from neighbors nearby the depth of the water mirror, take a closer look and get acquainted with nearby wells.

A driven well is quite convenient, if only because its construction is carried out in almost one day, of course, if all the components necessary for it are available. The cost of construction work is not very high, and the process itself is quite simple, so if the aquifer is good enough, then this is the most the best way water supply of a residential building. Before the main work, you can start preparatory work already with winter period. Before clogging a pipe for a well, it is advisable to find out from neighbors nearby the depth of the water mirror, take a closer look and get acquainted with nearby wells.

What is needed for a well

  • first you need to purchase pipes that would have about 15 m in length. The most important part of a tubular well is considered to be an intake - a filter, which is made of the same material. as the components of the whole structure;

The length of the intake is determined by the aquifer. If the vein for getting water is good, then the intake can have a length of 0.5 m, and its largest length can be 1.5 m.

  • the intake cone is made by a turner. It is either welded to the intake, or put on a thread. Numerous holes must be drilled along the entire length of the pipe, the diameter of which should be about 80-100 mm;
  • holes are drilled in a checkerboard pattern. Then such a pipe is wrapped with a mesh and soldered along the edge with tin solder. The intake mesh is a completely different matter. A good mesh can hold a small puddle of water on it and still keep it from flowing freely and easily. Non-ferrous metal mesh is not suitable, as it is most likely to corrode;
  • Today, more and more often construction work they use stainless self-tapping screws with large caps, which are even very suitable for attaching the mesh to self-tapping screws. For fastening, you need to drill holes of a couple of millimeters along the entire length of the intake pipe.

Extension pipes are cut into pieces 0.5 and 1.5 m long, depending on the type of soil.

When the winding is carried out with a mesh, it must be pressed with a stainless steel tape with self-tapping screws along the entire length of the pipe, using a screwdriver for this, and then cut off. Wrapping the mesh with wire will not bring any sense, because, if the intake is hooked in the ground for something strong and resistant, the wire will not help and the mesh will still break.

  • extension pipes are cut into pieces 0.5 and 1.5 m long, depending on the type of soil. If the soil is not very hard, but plastic and the pipes enter the ground easily, you can make them a little longer. Couplings for connection are made only of steel, so that they hold tightly and do not burst during operation, they are made into half of the coupling. Couplings are most often installed on linen with paint.

We start drilling a well

  • Earth drilling is carried out with an ordinary fishing drill, in which the handle is only remade in such a way that it is possible to attach extension knees to it and replace the brace with a T-shaped handle.

Drilling a well will require two people, since it will be necessary to remove the drill from the ground, and this work is quite difficult for one person.

Land drilling is carried out with an ordinary fishing drill.

If, as a result of drilling, quicksands are found, then work is stopped. A pre-prepared pipe with an intake is lowered into the well and a mallet is taken.

The beater looks like an ordinary chock, which on both sides has clogged metal brackets in a vertical position. Clogging of the pipe can be carried out by one person, or it can be done by two. If the pipe is too high, then we will hammer it using a stepladder.

The intake into the aquifer must be hammered with uniform blows on the pipe. Water is tested by pouring liquid into the well. If it does not linger, but immediately leaves, you can get water at the drilling site.

Pump connection and water analysis

A hand pump for pumping water is attached to the intake using a rubber hose with clamps.

  • Further, with the help of a rubber hose with clamps, a hand pump is attached and the water is pumped out. With the help of a hand pump, raising water from a well is quite easy and simple. If the water appears clean and tasty, without the formation of a film and precipitation, then. it is of good quality.

It is possible to determine the quality and quality factor of water by analyzing it in a special laboratory. If you don't like the quality, you can continue driving the pipe to a greater depth, checking from time to time if there is an aquifer. It is possible to hammer the well to the stop no deeper than 15 meters.

If the water table is at a level below 9 m, then it cannot be pumped out. Of course, you can lower the pump a few meters, first dig a pit, or simply make a well and install a water pumping station.

If water is not found or it is of poor quality, then the pipes are removed. If you have difficulty lifting them, use a jack.

Well preparation for operation

If the well is used only in the summer, it is advisable to remove the valve for the winter - then the column water will fall to the normal level and no freezing will occur.

If as a result you have found good water, you can begin to prepare the well for operation. The height of the pipe is leveled above ground level for easy connection. Sometimes they change the last knee to another of the required length, or simply saw off the excess part and cut a thread on it. The thread is necessary to be able to install the valve and further connect the hose.

The valve is a rather complex device, so it can often break or fail. To prevent this from happening, the valve is installed at the top in front of the pump. With it, the pole is supported, and in which case it can be easily replaced. If the well is used only in the summer, it is advisable to remove the valve for the winter - then the water column will fall to the usual level and no freezing will occur. In the spring, the valve is put in its original place and the water is raised.

If the well is used in winter, then the valve can also be removed, and put on during use, only then you need to make sure that no water is left in the pump. Next, you need to connect a water pumping station or an electric pump through a pipe or hose. For this, a high-pressure hose is used, since there is a vacuum in this place and it can be flattened. Sometimes a driven well is made on the street, a pipe is attached to it, and it, in turn, is led into the basement of the house where the water pumping station is installed.

Water pumping stations operate with a steady column and when the entire system is filled with water. Therefore, at first, a manual vacuum pump is used to raise the water. It is connected separately through a special valve, which is located in front of the water pumping station. When the water rises to the required level and the receiver is filled, the system will start automatically. There will always be a column of liquid in the pipe.

Well and pipe cleaning

You can also clean the well with special device, which is called the bailer.

Often, during long-term operation of a driven well, the flow of water slows down significantly. This happens as a result of clogging and clogging of the collection grid. Then it is necessary to pull the pipes out of the well and clean or replace them with new ones, you can simply change the grid of the collector or the collector as a whole.

There are times when the water in the well disappears completely. This happens sometimes for natural reasons, and sometimes for man-made. Then it is necessary to carry out deeper drilling and arrange a well with a casing pipe.

New driven well technologies

Today, quite interesting driven wells have appeared, such as disposable ones. For their arrangement, a metal-plastic pipe is used. To drive it into the ground, a composite rod is required, which is reusable.

The intake, like in conventional driven wells, only inside it is made a recess of a conical shape, which is designed to support the driving rod. A knee is attached to the intake through a coupling from a metal-plastic pipe and lowered into a drilled well.

Inside the pipe there is a driving rod, which strongly abuts against the recesses of the conical intake. An anvil is wound onto a steel rod and an intake is hammered through this rod. Having reached the aquifer, the rod is removed from the pipe, and the pipe is connected to the pump.

An equipped water well is an autonomous and reliable source of water supply for a summer house or a private house.

The organization of individual water supply is not always caused by the lack of a centralized water supply, the reason may be the poor quality of water in the main, interruptions in supply, deterioration of the water canal network, high cost of water, its shortage, and other factors.

Almost all owners of dachas or country cottages have an autonomous source of water. Another thing is that their choice may differ. Someone prefers a well, someone likes a well.


By the way, it will be useful to know comparative characteristics – .

This article is for those who opted for a well.

It should be noted that wells are divided into two types depending on the depth of drilling.

Types of wells for water


Since do-it-yourself drilling is supposed, we will consider in more detail the arrangement of wells for sand, as the most accessible in terms of independent implementation.

Drilling a well for water - step by step instructions

1. Depth determination

  • shallow (up to 3 m) well breaks through if the aquifer is close to the ground surface, and the water is supposed to be used only for technical needs or irrigation. To drill such a well, a drill is enough, casing pipe and a hand pump;
  • medium deep (up to 7 m) well provide water suitable for human consumption. In order to drill a well on your own, in addition to the drill, you will need a shovel and time to build a pit. A pit (pit) with dimensions of 1.5x1.5x1.5 is designed to facilitate drilling to great depths. For convenience, it can be reinforced with plywood or boards. After completion of work, the pit falls asleep. Water is supplied by a pump;
  • deep (more than 7 m) well, will completely close the need for water for all residents of a private house or cottage. At the same time, there will be enough water not only for individual consumption, but also for technical needs, sanitary requirements, watering, maintaining a pool or pond (reservoir).

In general, the choice of the type of water intake is determined after a geological study of the location of the well organization. We propose to consider the last option - the device of a deep well with your own hands, as the most difficult of those presented.

2. Well drilling methods

The listed types of wells (this does not apply to artesian or lime wells) can be drilled using the following methods (technologies):

Auger drilling using an auger drill.

Core drilling (an annular drill is used). Percussion drilling. In this case, a drill bit is used, which is driven into the soil without excavation. The soil is simply compacted away from the axis of the bit. The chisel is hammered using a tripod with a winch. Percussion rotary drilling. The work of the drill is supplemented by washing out the soil with water. The method is laborious for individual use. Rotary drilling (provided by a mobile drilling rig).

The photo shows a small-sized drilling rig MGB50P-02S with a movable hydraulic rotator manufactured by Horizontal.

3. Water well drilling project

In the event that the depth of the aquifer is known exactly, it can be drilled directly with the size of the drill for the casing. If not, you will first need to find out at what depth the aquifer lies.

Thus, any well is an individual project, which is influenced by the following parameters:

  • geological structure of the soil;
  • selected drilling method;
  • requirements that are put forward to the quantity and quality of water;
  • the requirement to maintain the necessary distances to the places of pollution (arrangement of the "sanitary zone");
  • depth of the aquifer. Moreover, this does not mean the first vein to which the drill has reached, but the one that will meet the conditions of use in terms of ensuring the debit of the well.

4. Water well drilling tools

Since the shock-rope method is described manual drilling, then its advantages should be noted:

  • preservation of most of the useful soil layer in its original state. Those. heavy equipment will not damage the plantings on the site;
  • no restrictions on the place of drilling. A hand drill can be drilled in almost any part of the site;

For work you will need:

  • shovel;
  • drill with a reinforced cutting part. Tip: you can strengthen the drill by welding cutters onto the screw, the role of which can be played by file elements or a metal shank. In addition, cutters can be sharpened using a grinder;
  • trolley for the removal of excavated soil;
  • pump type "baby" with a hose;
  • container with water.

Suitable for furnishing:

  • crushed stone or gravel for a pillow;
  • steel wire for the filter;
  • pipes;
  • wire for arranging a bottom filter.

5. Choice of location and arrangement of the pit

With the help of hired specialists or folk methods (dowsing, barometric method, using silica gel, by the amount of dew, exploratory drilling, etc.), we determine the place where the aquifer is closest to the surface.

Next, we dig a hole. This is the development of soil of a certain depth, the purpose of which is to facilitate the process of drilling a well.

The arrangement of the pit is an important stage for two reasons.

Firstly, the depth of drilling with a drill is reduced.

Secondly, the possibility of soil collapse around the well is excluded.

The dimensions of the pit are determined by the driller, but usually they are 1.5x1.5 and 1.5-2.5m. in depth. So that the soil does not sprinkle, the pit is reinforced with plywood, boards or metal.

6. First method: tripod - drilling rig

A tripod is a percussion-cable mechanism for drilling water wells. The support structure will be needed in order to facilitate the drilling process through the use of a drill glass.

The tripod can be made of wood (knots are excluded) or a metal pipe (or profile). The length of the beam or pipe should be 4-5 m. How to make a tripod for drilling can be seen in the diagram. Further, a mechanical winch with a cable is attached to the tripod, on which the drill glass is fixed.

Such a drilling rig is compact and has a significant margin of safety. The principle of operation of the installation is simple: a glass falling into the ground absorbs the soil. Depending on the composition of the soil in one stroke, you can select from 20 cm to 1 m of soil. To facilitate the work, you can fill the drilling site with water. From time to time, the drill glass must be cleaned of soil stuffed into it.

Attention: The cable on which the drill is attached must be longer than the depth of the well. Otherwise, it will break off, and the drill will remain at the bottom.

The casing pipe can be installed simultaneously with the advance to the depth or after all the work has been completed.

7. The second method - casing and drill

During the drilling process, you can immediately install the casing. Then its diameter must be greater than the diameter of the drill, so that the drill can move freely in the pipe.

When performing work, you need to constantly monitor the moisture content of the soil being removed so as not to miss the aquifer (otherwise it can be closed with a pipe). The main features are below.

Material prepared for the site site

After an aquifer is discovered, it is necessary to pump out dirty water in order to understand whether there is enough water in a given vein. For this, a submersible or hand pump is used.

If, after pumping out 2-3 buckets of muddy water, clean still has not appeared, drilling should be continued to a more capacious layer.

Important: the pump is not designed for such operating conditions, so after water treatment it may break. It is recommended to use only a high-quality pump.

8. Well casing

Steel or plastic pipes can be used for casing (service life up to 50 years). But the use of galvanized pipes is not recommended, due to the risk of water contamination with zinc impurities.

The meaning of the upset is as follows:

  • prevention of shedding of the walls of the well;
  • prevention of well silting;
  • elimination of the possibility of getting into the well of perched water (water upper layers, melt or rain water);
  • eliminating the risk of clogging the well.

The installation of the casing pipe is carried out immediately after the completion of work or directly during the drilling process.

Tip: if the pipes go "creaking" you need to attach a sledgehammer to them.

9. Flushing the well with water after drilling

The installation of a casing pipe does not end there. Now you need to flush the well. To do this, a pipe is lowered into it, through which water is supplied under pressure. Thanks to the pressure of water, a layer of clay and sand will be washed out of the well, which must be pumped out. After the appearance pure water it needs to be analyzed. Requirements for the quality of water from a well are regulated by SanPiN 2.1.4.1074-01 (Russia) or DSanPіN 2.2.4-171-10 (Ukraine). If the water quality is satisfactory, work can continue.

10. Bottom filter for sand well

The purpose of the filter is to protect the pipe from silting.

How to make a filter for a well?

You can make a slotted filter with your own hands, for this you need to make notches (cuts) with a grinder at the end of the pipe.

Tip: for notches, you need to use a thin disk (0.8mm). Pay attention - many notches will weaken the pipe.

Alternatively, you can drill holes in the pipe. Next, the place of notches / drilling must be wrapped with wire or mesh. Lay the filter obtained in this way on a crushed stone pillow, the filling of which will prevent the filter from silting up. Tip: the diameter of the filter pipe should be smaller than the diameter of the main pipes in order to be able to dive into the well without problems.

by the most simple option there will be a purchase of a ready-made filter.

Important: without a filter, the well will not work for long. Its absence is justified only in deep water wells (more than 40 m)

11. Well debit for water

To get a complete picture of the capacity of the well for sand, you need to wait a day, and then check the level of incoming water. If the incoming water is sufficient for the needs of users, the distance between the soil and the casing can be filled. The pit is also buried.

12. The buildup of a well for water after drilling

This is a required step. To perform the buildup or simply the final cleaning of the well, you need to install centrifugal pump high power and periodically pump out water for 1.5-2 weeks.

Tip: You should decide in advance where the pumped water will be redirected.

13. Drilling a water well with your own hands - video

Manual technology using shock-rope method well drilling.

14. Installing a pump for a well for water

Please note that surface-type pumps are not intended for installation in a well. Due to the depth limitation of 8 m. For these purposes, only submersible pump- centrifugal or vibration. Each of the subspecies has its own advantages, and the final choice can be made by analyzing the influence of such factors as:

  • well depth;
  • water level in the well;
  • casing diameter;
  • well debit;
  • water pressure in the well;
  • well pump cost.

15. Putting the well into operation

If drilling a well under water was not carried out independently, but with the involvement of a third-party organization, then before accepting work, you need to require the following documents:

  • hydrogeological conclusion on the possibility of implementing a water well project;
  • well passport;
  • permission of the sanitary and epidemiological station (checks the quality of water and the compliance of the sanitary zone with the requirements);
  • certificate of completion.

If all the work will be carried out independently, then the main thing is not to rush, but to withstand the technology and observe all the key points in the process of drilling a well for water. However, do not forget that only the use quality materials(in particular, pipes and a pump) will be the key to the long-term functioning of the well.

The lack of own wells and the poor quality of water in the central water supply systems have led to the fact that the driven well has again become in demand. In private homes, this design is often the only option for providing water. In addition, a well can be made both at home and outside, near the bathhouse or in the garden. Own autonomous provision is always attractive, but you need to know what a driven well is, or otherwise, an Abyssinian well.

The well is convenient in all its indicators:

  1. Equipment efficiency. An Abyssinian well can be dug in one day if pipes and other accessories are available;
  2. Affordable price . The cost of pipes (the main cost factor) is low, and if the aquifer is close, the process is accelerated and greatly facilitated;
  3. Preparatory work you can start in the winter.

The main thing is to find out from the neighbors how deep the aquifer layer lies or take a closer look at the wells located in the district.

Well tools and equipment:

  • First you need to purchase pipes for water with a length of at least 15 m. An important part of the tubular well is the intake - a filter made of the same material that makes up the entire structure.

Important! The length of the intake filter is calculated based on the saturation of the aquifer. With excessive saturation, the length does not exceed 0.5 m, with insufficient saturation it can reach up to 1.5 m.

  • The turner can be entrusted with the manufacture of the intake cone. It is immediately welded to the part of the intake or equipped with a thread and screwed.
  • Pipe perforation is required. To do this, holes are drilled along the entire length of the pipe, with a diameter of up to 0.8 cm. The location of the holes is staggered, then the pipes are wrapped in a mesh, soldered with tin solder along the edge part.
  • The intake grid is an indispensable element that you can also do with your own hands. A good mesh should hold a small puddle of water and at the same time allow the liquid to drain freely, the design of the mesh element can be seen in the video.

Important! The mesh made of non-ferrous metal is not suitable for the intake, due to the peculiarity of rapid corrosion and deformation.

  • The mesh is attached to stainless steel screws equipped with large caps. For fastening strength, it is better to drill small (2 mm) holes along the entire length of the intake pipes. It is simple and easy to do it yourself. But after winding and fastening the mesh, the protruding and extra parts of the mesh fabric must be cut off! It is wrong to wind up with wire, if the intake catches on something solid in the ground, the wire will not help, the mesh will immediately break through, and not only small, but also large particles of dirt and soil will begin to fall into the water.
  • Extension pipes are cut into pieces of 0.5-1.5 m, depending on the soil filling. For soft seams, slightly longer pipe lengths are allowed.
  • Couplings take only steel! But for the strength and reliability of fastening, it is better to supplement the threaded step by turning it to half of the coupling. The operation is also simple and easy to do with your own hands, with some threading skill. To minimize leakage at the joints, the couplings are seated on linen threads with paint.

Drilling a driven well for water

If all the tools and equipment are prepared correctly, you can proceed to the next step - clogging the well. Previously, it is better to watch the whole process on the video and use our tips:

  • Drilling is carried out with an ordinary fishing drill with a redesigned handle and brace. The handle is changed so that extension knees are connected to the drill, the brace is changed to a T-shaped handle.

Advice! To make the clogging take as little time as possible, it is better to do the work together. This will make it easier to get the drill out of the ground and clean it.

  • As soon as quicksands are found, the process must be stopped, a pipe with an intake is lowered into the well and a mallet is taken. A mallet is an ordinary chock, equipped on both sides with metal brackets fixed vertically. The pipe must be hammered with it, it is only important to observe the uniformity of blows.

Advice! The presence of water in the layer is checked by pouring liquid into the well, if it does not linger, but leaves immediately - the drilling site has been chosen correctly and the Abyssinian driven well will be ready soon.

  • After the clogging of the pipes is completed, you can connect the pump using a hose with clamps and pump out the water.

Pure and tasty water has gone, without film formations, foam and precipitation - the result has been achieved. But for your own peace of mind, it’s good to do a water analysis in the laboratory, since it’s impossible to do it yourself to make sure it’s safe. When bad smell or the appearance of a film, it is better to continue driving pipes to a greater depth, checking from time to time for the presence of an aquifer. Clogging deeper than 15 meters is not worth it, this will not turn out to be an Abyssinian well, but a different design.

It is difficult to pump out water if the water table is below 9 meters. If an operation is necessary, a pit is dug out, where a pump is lowered or a well is made with the installation of a water pumping station.

Rarely, but it happens that the aquifer is not located. In this case, remove the pipes, if you don’t know how, watch the video, bury the well and punch the Abyssinian well with your own hands in another place on the site.

Preparation of the well for use

So the water is good ground water saturated, which means that you can start arranging the well. To do this, a set of pipes is leveled above the soil level for ease of connection. In this case, you can replace the last extended knee with a piece of the desired length, or simply cut off the excess by cutting a thread onto the top. The thread is required to equip the valve and connect the hose part.

Advice! The valve often breaks, so it is better to install it in front of the pump (at the top), in case of failure, the valve will be easier to replace. If the well is intended for use in the warm period, the valve is removed for winter cold until spring. And if the well begins to work year-round, then in very coldy it is also better to dismantle the valve, putting it on only for using the well, and make sure that no water remains in the pump.

After arranging the valve, the well is pumped with a hand pump, and only then, when the system is filled with water, an electric pump or a water pumping station is connected. This will ensure a constant column of liquid in the pipe and the Abyssinian well will work more efficiently.

Cleaning the Abyssinian well system

As you can see, it is not difficult to hammer a well with your own hands, a set of pipes, tools and some patience is enough. During operation, the intake will become clogged with particles, which means that you will have to clean or completely replace the intake grid or the entire collector. But there are times when the water runs out completely. Reasons can vary from natural phenomena to man-made. Solution: carry out deeper drilling into the ground and equip not an Abyssinian well, but a well with a casing.

In conclusion and to help

Interesting new technologies for clogging "disposable" wells with their own hands. Such wells are made on a short time, for example to provide water to summer time until the Abyssinian well is ready. For the arrangement, a metal-plastic pipe is used, clogged with a composite rod. The intake is no different from the usual one, only inside it is equipped with a recess in the shape of a cone so that the driving rod rests in this place. The metal-plastic elbow is connected to the intake by means of a coupling, and the entire structure is lowered into the drilled well. As soon as the rod was inserted into the pipe, they rested it in the recess of the intake, an anvil is screwed on top of the rod and the intake is hammered to the desired depth. We reached the aquifer, remove the rod, connect the pipe to the pump and you can pump the well to get clean water.

For normal life support in the house or in the country should be constantly running water. Most often, the sources are a well or a well. Preferably a well. Firstly, because, as a rule, rather deep-lying aquifers with more clean water. Second, they last longer. Thirdly, their debit (replenishment rate) is much higher. It is also important that it is possible to drill water wells with your own hands. There are several technologies, you just have to choose.

Water near the house is always good

Methods for self-drilling water wells

Water wells are drilled or clogged - different technologies involve different ways. Do-it-yourself drilling of wells for water is not possible by all methods, but some can really be used.

Auger drilling

With this technology, a well is made using a special drill - auger. This is a steel pipe, with blades welded in a spiral. When rotating, the projectile plunges into the ground. After it goes to its entire depth, it is taken out, the soil remaining on the blades is poured out. The auger is lowered into the well again, having grown the pipe from above, excavation continues. So, over and over again, taking out the projectile and shaking off the soil, they drill a well. Pipes at the ends can be threaded or connected with studs.

The disadvantage of this method is that it is not suitable for all types of soils. Normally soft or medium hard rocks are drilled. If there is a rocky or rocky layer, the work will be inefficient - the auger is powerless here. Blockages will be observed in loose soils, which is also problematic.

Quite powerful installations work according to this technology, but there are even hand-held auger drills. They work very hard, but possible. There is a simple device that makes auger drilling of water wells with your own hands easier - this is a tripod with a collar and a block fixed at the top. With the help of a cable, a winch and a block, it is easier to get a drilling tool, and this must be done often.

Motorized drilling rigs are more convenient, and not necessarily purchased ones. There is interesting homemade. In any case, this is a frame with a movably fixed motor that drives the drill. An example of such a setup is in the next video. The auger drill is not used for water wells, but the essence of the installation itself and the principle of operation do not change from this.

At small sizes auger and rods, which increase the length (up to 1.5 m), this method of drilling water wells can also be used inside the house, cottage, bath. The main thing is that the soils are suitable.

Hydrodrilling (using a pump or a pump)

As the name implies, this method uses water to drill wells. When used independently, most often water is pumped into the pipe. It exits through special holes at the bottom of the drill, flows by gravity through the gap between the outer wall of the pipe and the walls of the well.

In addition to a drill and threaded pipes, this method also requires a pump. Before starting work, two pits are dug near the future well. In the first, the main amount of soil settles, in the second, water enters, devoid of most of the impurities. Little water is needed for the process - it constantly circulates. From the first pit, sediments are periodically removed, usually with a shovel. If necessary, if the water has become too dirty, it can be replaced. It is pumped out using the same pump, only it is not fed into the well, but is drained somewhere to the site. Bay a new batch of water can continue drilling.

After the well has reached the required depth, a casing pipe with a filter at the end is inserted into it. Recently, HDPE or PVC pipe is most often used. It is easier to work with HDPE - it bends well. The filter is holes drilled at the end of the casing. The length of such a filter is about a meter. Then you can wind a stainless steel wire on top, and a fine mesh of the same stainless steel on top.

Shock rope method

One of the easiest to implement ways to make a well on your own is shock-rope. But it is also the slowest, in the absence of mechanization, it requires significant physical effort. On the other hand, it can be considered as a simulator. Moreover, it is very effective - almost all the muscles of the body work.

Do-it-yourself shock-rope drilling of water wells is a universal method that can be used on any type of soil. Only the projectile changes, but the technology and installation remains the same:


The wireline drilling rig can be implemented in different ways. The most common type is a tripod, in the center of which a block is fixed. But the block can also be attached to an L-shaped structure; an electric motor with a gearbox can also be used to facilitate labor.

Tripod - the most common type of installation

The technology of shock-rope drilling itself is very simple: the projectile is lifted, released into free fall. This is repeated many times. With each blow, the well becomes a little deeper. When a section of 50 cm has been passed, the projectile is removed, freed from the ground. And everything repeats again.

To drill faster, you need a heavy projectile. If the pipe walls are thick, the mass can be significant anyway. If necessary, you can make it heavier - fill the upper part of the pipe with lead. Also, to speed up the passage, the lower edge can be sharpened, but this must be done so that the bevel is directed inward. One more thing: pay attention to the slots in the drilling shells. They make it easier to remove the rock. This is especially important when passing dense, viscous clay layers.

A cable for a percussion-rope drilling rig is needed with a diameter of 10-12 mm. If you work by hand, gloves are required. When passing the upper layers, it is easier to use a hand drill, and for easier passage of the upper layers in dry times, you can pour water into the drilled well.

Casing pipe and filter

All the above-described technologies for self-drilling water wells have common features. After the well has entered the aquifer (water will appear in large quantities in the rock), they continue to drill for some time, going deep into the aquifer by 1-2 meters. Then the entire drill string is dismantled, and a casing pipe is installed inside the well.

The piping needs to be dealt with. Select the diameter depending on the size of the well you drilled and the type of pump you plan to use. We must carefully consider the choice of material. For some time, asbestos pipes were used for the casing. But they are very harmful - the strongest carcinogen. Do not use galvanized pipes either - zinc is not excreted from the body, it accumulates. And poisoning them has very bad consequences.

There is not so much choice left - pipes made of steel and stainless steel, as well as plastic pipes - HDPE and PVC. stainless steel - practically perfect option, except for the price and complexity of welding. In order for the seam not to rust, welding in an argon environment is necessary, and this is not easy. Although, to some extent, special stainless steels can help.

AT last years plastic pipes are becoming more and more popular. PVC and HDPE are cheap and cheerful, but for their installation, the well must be perfectly level. Another point - plastic does not tolerate loads very well. Therefore, they can be used at a shallow depth - up to 15 meters. In any case, set for a well sewer pipes it’s not worth it, it’s better to still find plumbing, although they are more expensive: the walls in them are of different thicknesses, so the investment will be justified.

Steel pipes will definitely not collapse and stand for a long time, but they also have a significant drawback: they rust. Nevertheless, of the options described above, it is the metal that is optimal if there are no funds for stainless steel.

In order for water to enter the casing pipe, a filter is made in its lower part, which is immersed in the aquifer. Holes are made in the pipe. There are two options. First - drill large diameter, in four rows in a checkerboard pattern. The second - longitudinal slots are cut with a grinder (size 1.5-2.5 mm).

A wire (3-4 mm in diameter) is wound on top of the pipe, and a mesh with a very small cell is attached on top of it. It is best to use stainless steel. In this case, it will be possible to wash the sediment filter with washing solutions, and the wire and mesh can be welded to the pipe.

If you use any other metal, after a while the filter will fail. Ferrous metal rusts, the rest are destroyed due to electrolytic corrosion.

Abyssinian well or well-needle

This is a type of manual drilling of wells for water and cannot be called drilling - a special rod with a cast cone-shaped tip is driven into the ground, increasing as needed with pipes-rods (one 1-2 meters long), which are connected by thread. This type of wells is called differently, driven, Abyssinian, needle. All this about one method.

The difference from all other methods is that these pipes remain in the ground, it is through them that water will flow. That is, this is a well without casing. It is pierced with the help of these pipes, and then they are used. Therefore, as the rods with which the needle is built up, they use water pipes with a thick wall. Diameter from 25 -32 mm. Since the pipes are clogged forever, their connection must be airtight. Traditionally, to increase reliability, a winding (usually linen) is used, it can be coated with a sealant.

First element Abyssinian well called a needle. But the tip-peak is far from the only difference between this piece and others. Holes are drilled in almost the entire length of the pipe. This is a water filter. Water will flow through them. So that they are not clogged with rock, a wire is wound in a spiral over the pipe, and a fine mesh is attached to it. In order for the well to serve for a long time, not to clog, it was possible to flush, the wire and mesh must be made of stainless steel. Only in this embodiment, the filter will serve for a long time and without problems. The use of other metals, albeit stainless ones, greatly reduces the life of the well - metals are destroyed due to electrolytic corrosion. Because brass, copper or any other wire or mesh on steel pipe unsuitable.

The first element of the Abyssinian well is a needle with a spike tip and a filter

One more moment. So that when clogging the mesh and winding is not torn off, they are welded to the pipe. The next point: the diameter of the wide part of the cone should be wider than the diameter of the pipe. When clogging, the cone leaves a hole of a greater width than the winding pipe following them, therefore it will not be torn off.

The technical process of driving a well-needle is extremely simple: they hit the pipe, driving it into the ground. But if you knock something heavy on the top of the pipe, it will deform. Because they do special device- a headstock and a cone that is screwed onto the top of the pipe. Inside the headstock, the impact surface also has the shape of a cone. The existing cavities inside are filled with lead - to increase the weight. The more the projectile weighs, the faster the pipe will clog, but keep in mind that you need to lift it with your hands and a lot of times.

The woman herself is much larger in diameter than the pipe that will be hammered. So that during its movement there is no play at the bottom, a washer of a suitable diameter is installed (slightly larger than the outer diameter of the pipe). As a result, the headstock moves freely up / down, but without any backlash. The height of the projectile is determined by its size - it is necessary that it does not fly off the clogged pipe. Appearance headstock for driving the Abyssinian well and its drawing are located below.

This is not the only device with which wells are clogged. They make a powerful clamp on the pipe, which is fixed according to the clamp principle. Instead of a headstock, a heavy metal ring with two handles is used. How to work with them - see the video.

As you can see, it is possible to break a well for water inside the house or even at the bottom of an old well. Not much space is needed.

How to equip a punched well

Punching/drilling a well is not enough. We still need to raise the water, and this is a completely different story. If you want to make the water supply constant, with normal pressure, so that you can connect household appliances, you will need .

For seasonal water supply in the country, you can get by with a more modest set:

  • vibration pump;
  • check valve, which is installed in front of the pump;
  • water container;
  • watering hose;
  • taps, etc.

Please note that the check valve is installed in front of the pump, and not at the end of the hose submerged into the well. Just like that, this very hose will not break during frosts. Another plus of such a device is that it is easier to dismantle for the winter.

Another tip: the well must be closed with something. In permanent residences, a caisson is made - a concrete or plastic bunker, which is located below the freezing depth. It contains all the equipment. When using water only periodically, the caisson is too expensive. But something needs to close the well. Firstly, some kind of living creature may fall into it, which will not please you in any way. Secondly, "good" neighbors can drop something. A more budgetary way out is to build. Even more cheap option- dig a pit, beat it with a board, make a wooden cover. Key moment: all this must be locked.

Driven well or Abyssinian well

This type of wells is common in the north of our country in private households. In another way, a driven well is called an “Abyssinian well”. It gained popularity mainly because of the desire of each family to have its own source. drinking water, while previously everyone was content with the common.

In the photo - an Abyssinian well with a pumping station

General information

Today, water is vital for every private courtyard - for a residential building, watering a garden, a bathhouse, and also simply for a reserve of life-giving moisture. Usually one well is made in the yard, but in this case two wells are possible.

Such a tubular well is interesting in that you can make it in almost one day if you prepare everything necessary materials. The price of the construction is low, and the process is as simple as possible, so if you have a good aquifer on your site, this option will be the best for organizing private water supply. And how to hammer a well into water will be described in detail below in the article.

Making an Abyssinian well in the underground of a house

When you have decided to organize the "Abyssinian well", you can do everything preparatory work spend leisurely winter. It would also be nice to know in advance from the neighbors the depth at which the water mirror is located in the well, and look at their decks.

Process

Below is an instruction on how to hammer a well with your own hands:

  1. Buy 15 m of pipe, preferably stainless Ø 3/4″ or Ø 1″.
  2. Make your own or order the components of the structure:
  • intake filter - the most important element, which is made from the same pipe or from a pipe of a larger diameter. The length of the intake is approximately equal to the aquifer, 500 mm is enough for a good vein, maximum 1500 mm;
  • intake cone order a turner, and then weld it to the intake pipe or attach it to the thread.
  1. Prepare a P52 stainless mesh, it is not recommended to use non-ferrous metals, but it all depends on the chemical composition of the water.

Intake filter with stainless steel mesh

  1. Drill numerous holes Ø 8-10 mm along the entire length of the pipe, arranging them in a checkerboard pattern, then wrap it with mesh and solder it along the edge using tin solder. You can also attach it to stainless steel self-tapping screws with a large hat. To do this, it is necessary to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 mm in the pipe along the entire length.

Tip: do not wrap the mesh with wire, this will practically do nothing.

  1. Cut the extension pipes into lengths of 1.5-2 m, depending on the soil on the site. If it is loose and the pipes fit well into it, make them longer.

Abyssinian well manufacturing scheme

  1. cook couplings made of steel, for pipes - half coupling. Sit clutches on linen with paint, FUM tape is not suitable.
  2. Use an ordinary fishing drill for drilling, the handle of which needs to be redone. This consists in the possibility of attaching additional knees, you should also change the brace to a T-handle. Remove the drill from the well with your hands, preferably together, with a passage of up to 6 m. Stop drilling when signs of quicksand appear.
  3. Lower a pipe with an intake into the well and hammer it with a wooden mallet, preferably birch. Use a ladder when the end of the pipe is too high. Drive the intake into the water horizon with even strokes. Check for its appearance by pouring water into the pipe, when it leaves without delay, then you are already in the aquifer.
  4. Take a hand pump, attach a rubber hose to it and start pumping water. This will be especially easy to do when the water mirror is located at a depth of 4-6 m.

The last knee of the Abyssinian well with a thread for connecting the pump

  1. Examine the water for transparency and taste, as well as soapiness, let it settle and boil. good water it will be clean, tasty, not form a film during settling and not produce precipitation. It is better, of course, to take it to the laboratory for chemical analysis.

If you don't like the water, keep plugging the pipes further. At the same time, do not forget to control the depth and periodically check the presence of an aquifer by pouring water.

When you find water in lower layers, the water table will align with the first water horizon, and the selection itself will come from levels 2-3. In this way, it is possible to clog a well by almost 14-15 m, but then it will be almost unrealistic.

When the mirror of water is set at a level of 9 m from the surface, in order to get it, you can dig a pit to a depth of two to three meters. You will get a pit that will not let the well freeze in winter if it is insulated.

Arrangement

When water is found, it is necessary to proceed to the next stage - the arrangement of the well. to start its full operation. Adjust the height of the pipe to the level that is convenient for you to connect the pump. In this case, the last elbow must have a thread that connects the hoses and the check valve.

If the well is not operated in winter, the latter must be removed. Connect the water pump or pump after check valve through a high pressure hose or pipe.

Tip: if after a while the water pressure decreases, most likely the mesh is clogged on the intake. Then you pull the pipes out of the well to clean it or replace it.

Pit for driven well

Sometimes the water in the well may disappear due to a change in the horizon of the aquifer, since this is not a constant thing. In this case, you will have to contact a company that is engaged in deep drilling and a casing pipe will already be needed for the well.

New technologies

Some companies offer interesting solutions associated with the installation of driven wells. which can be classified as disposable. In this case, not a metal pipe is used, but a metal-plastic one, the price of which is much cheaper.

But, since it is unrealistic to break through the soil because of its softness, a composite reusable rod made of carbon steel. Perform a fence in the usual way, however, a conical recess is made at the base of the tip to stop the driving rod.

A metal-plastic elbow is attached to the intake through the coupling, the structure is lowered into the drilled well, a driving rod is inserted into the pipe, resting against the conical recess of the intake. Then an anvil is screwed onto it and the intake is hammered through a steel rod.

When the aquifer level is reached, the rod is removed and the pipe is connected to the pump. The cost of such a well is less than a standard stainless pipe.

Conclusion

From the article, you learned how to hammer a well yourself on soft soils without the use of heavy drilling equipment. In this case, two options are used - with metal pipe and with metal-plastic, but with a steel driving rod. The water extracted to the surface should first be given for chemical analysis of its quality.

In this article, you will find Additional information on this topic.

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