How to correctly lay the wiring under the tile. How to conduct electrical wiring in the bathroom? Installation of wiring in the apartment under the tile

  • 20.06.2020

When it is planned to install electrical wiring in a house from scratch, it often becomes a question of choosing a laying method. Everyone wants to do all this with a minimum of effort and as efficiently as possible.

In other articles on our site, we have already considered options for hidden and open wiring for different options building materials. In this article, we will take a closer look at the rules for installing hidden wiring under a screed layer.

This option has recently become increasingly popular, because when replacing the screed, the rough work on wall chasing is significantly reduced.

The problem of wiring under the floor

Laying electrical wiring under the floor has its drawbacks. And in order to minimize them as much as possible, it is very important to properly plan the wiring and accurately determine the number of electrical points. After all, it will be almost impossible to make changes in the future.

So:

  • The main problem that you may encounter with this type of wiring is the difficulty of complying with clause 2.1.23 of the PUE. It requires that all junctions and branches of wires be available for maintenance and repair.
  • This greatly complicates the installation of wiring under the screed layer. Indeed, in any group network, we cannot do without. But we cannot equip them under the floor.
  • There are several ways out of this situation. The simplest arrangement seems to be junction boxes in the wall directly above the floor. But this method is aesthetically not very attractive, there is a possibility that children or pets can climb into the box, and if the room is flooded, it generally becomes very dangerous. Therefore, this method is rarely used.
  • Much more often, home wiring is equipped using socket boxes as junction boxes. Indeed, by connecting each electrical point in series, it is possible to do without junction boxes. But there is one big problem here. If the wire that feeds a certain electric point breaks, all subsequent points also become inoperable.
  • And of course, it is possible to arrange a junction box in a standard place under the ceiling. But this eliminates all the advantages of laying wiring under the floor and leads us to the so-called classic version of hidden wiring.
  • From practice, I can say that some people ignore clause 2.1.23 of the PUE and equip junction boxes under a layer of screed. But this leads to problems in the future, and these problems can be associated not only with the wiring, but also with the screed due to insufficient rigidity of the stationary boxes. Therefore, I can not advise you this method of installation.

  • The only exception is with wooden floors. Where it is possible to create original removable beams in the floor for servicing junction boxes. This method causes certain difficulties in implementation and has its own nuances, but as one of the options it is quite acceptable.

Under floor wiring diagrams

Based on the foregoing, let's look at the most common wiring scheme when laying it under the floor. In most cases, the method of using embedded socket boxes as distribution boxes is used.

And in order to minimize the disadvantages this method, it is very important to apply the correct wiring diagram for each individual room.

  • First of all, it is very important for us to separate the power supply circuits of various electrical outlets as much as possible. Due to this, in case of damage in one of the sections, not the entire network of the room, but only a small section, will lose its operability.
  • Therefore, based on the geometry of the room and the layout of sockets and switches, the room should be divided into 2-3 sections. Each site should have 2-3 electrical outlets. Usually these are 1-2 sockets and a switch (see).

  • Also, our instructions advise you to immediately decide on the central outlet to which the main group wire will be connected. Usually, either the most loaded electrical point, or the most conveniently located in the center of the room, is chosen as such.
  • If you choose the most loaded electrical outlet, usually double or, then it is very important that it is as close to the center of the room as possible. Otherwise, due to the large length of wires extending from it, the price increases slightly.
  • If you choose an outlet located in the center of the room, but not the most loaded, then it is much more difficult to implement the connection itself. Indeed, in addition to the supply group wire, 2-3 more wires should be connected to it to power individual sections of your electrical network. For a single socket mortgage box, it is quite difficult to accommodate such a number of wires.
  • If there are not so many electrical outlets in your room, for example, two or three sockets and a switch, then the separation of power into separate sections may not be done. But it all depends on your preferences and wishes for the reliability of the power grid.

Rules for installing wiring under the floor

Floor wiring has whole line restrictions and in most cases depends on the material of the floors themselves. For wooden floors, they make the same requirements, and for embedding in a screed, they are somewhat lower.

We will first consider General requirements, and then for each of these cases.

So:

  • First of all, it should be remembered that, according to clause 2.1.22 of the PUE, at the junctions of the wires, a supply of wire must be provided sufficient for reconnection. The electrical wiring of a house with installation under the floor is especially demanding on this parameter. Indeed, to replace it, more significant repair work. Therefore, we advise you to leave a very good supply of wire.
  • It should also be remembered that at the junctions and in general along the entire length of the wire, according to clause 2.1.24 of the Electrical Installation Code, it should not be affected by mechanical forces. That is, no tension is allowed.
  • In order to exclude mechanical impact on the wire, it must be protected. For laying in the screed, a plastic corrugated pipe should be used for this.

Note! Many videos on the Internet suggest using steel corrugation or even metal pipe, but these are unnecessary precautions. According to the norms of the PUE, a plastic corrugation is quite enough for this.

  • or pipe, according to the table. 2.1.3 PUE should be used when installing hidden wiring under wooden floors or when wiring crosses other combustible building materials. It should be remembered that the pipes should be laid in such a way as to make it impossible for moisture to accumulate in them. And if you are laying wiring in a damp or dusty room, then you need to connect the pipes to prevent moisture from entering them.

Note! Electrical wiring on the floor wooden house can also be made in a plastic corrugated pipe. But in this case, it should be covered on all sides with fireproof material. This is quite troublesome and time-consuming, so this method is used extremely rarely.

Conclusion

Now you know how to mount the wiring in the house under the floors with your own hands.

As you can see, this installation method has its own nuances and is far from always optimal. This is especially true for apartments and private one-story houses, although much here depends on each individual case and your wishes. But with a two-story private construction, this installation option can be very profitable. After all, it will allow you to place all the electrical network engineering In one place.

The technology of laying an electric underfloor heating under a tile is quite laborious, but even an inexperienced person can do it. So that readers of "" can independently install the heating cable (or thermomat), then we will consider detailed instructions with wiring diagram and video!

Which option to give preference?

Heating floor covering from the network can be represented by a heating cable or a thermomat. We discussed in detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of them in the corresponding article. Now let's briefly talk about which option is better to choose.

An electric underfloor heating from a cable under a tile is cheaper, but at the same time, the calculation of its length and the installation itself are more difficult. It is recommended to use it if you can sacrifice the height of the ceiling (because the screed will be thicker).

As for the heating mat, it has a number of advantages, because in fact, it is an improved version of the explorer. The design feature is that the same cable is already placed on a special fiberglass mesh, which allows you to maintain an even pitch between turns.

In addition, the convenience of the thermomat is that to calculate the material, you just need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room and, based on given parameter choose the right size roll.

It is up to you which option to give preference to, but we still recommend using the installation of an electric mat, in addition, this option has many positive feedback in the Internet.

If you decide to choose heating mats for installing underfloor heating, we advise you to pay attention to the products of the EKF company, and in particular to the UYUT underfloor heating system. You can choose heating mats exactly for your conditions - ready-made kits vary in size and power. Choice of mechanical or electronic temperature controller with weekly programming function. Speaking about the thermomats themselves, I would like to highlight the full shielding of the current-carrying conductors, due to which the floor surface is evenly heated. You can find out more about EKF heating mats by clicking on the link: https://ekfgroup.com/catalog/sistemy-obogreva/sistema-teplyy-pol.

Laying technology

In this article, we will consider laying a warm electric floor under tiles using a heating cable, as well as a special mat. Preparatory work will be similar, the difference will be only in the main process.

We prepare the surface

First you need to remove the old flooring and clean the surface of debris. If there are no defects, you can do without a screed (rough). In the event that the floor has irregularities, it is necessary to initially level them with a solution, with a thickness of 3 to 7 cm.

Schema creation

Before the calculation work, it is necessary to draw up a diagram for connecting an electric underfloor heating under the tile, on which to mark the step of laying the wires or the heating mat.

  • at least 10 cm must be retreated from the walls;
  • in places where furniture without legs is installed, as well as household appliances it is forbidden to lay the material (heat transfer will be difficult, and all the warm air will return back to the conductor, which will cause it to overheat and fail);
  • it is not necessary to lay the material in a straight line, you can carefully cut the mesh to bend the track in the right direction (this option allows you to reduce energy consumption by focusing heating only on the necessary areas).

Material calculation

If you decide to make a warm floor under the tiles with your own hands as the main heating, it is necessary to carry out the calculation taking into account that a heater with a power of at least 140-180 W is required for 1 m 2. For an auxiliary heating system, you can use a power of not more than 140 W / m 2 (80 W is also possible, it all depends on how well the room is insulated).

All you need is to calculate the area of ​​​​the room (length * width) and subtract from this value the area occupied by furniture without legs and household appliances(because it is forbidden to lay material under them). As a result, you will get a useful heating area. After that, based on the result obtained, the required total power of the heating element and its length are determined. The linear power of one meter of heating cable can vary from 16 to 21 W/m.

For example, if the area of ​​the room is 10 m 2 and you have chosen a heater with a power of 100 W/m 2, then the result will be a total required power of 1 kW. We choose a cable of 20 W / m, the length of which should be 50 m (1000/20).

The thermostat is selected according to the same principle, based on the usable area and the required power. Additionally, you need to purchase a mounting tape, with which the heater will be attached to the concrete screed.

Checking old wiring

As you understand, for a room with an area of ​​​​25-30 m 2, you will need a sufficiently powerful electric underfloor heating under the tile, which will put a noticeable load on. You must carry out and determine if your wiring is suitable for new system heating. If it turns out that the diameter of the cores does not match, it is necessary to use a new, more powerful one. Also check that circuit breaker and RCD corresponded new load by current.

Surface thermal insulation

Now we turn to the installation and the first thing to do is to qualitatively insulate the surface for laying the electric floor heating. This will affect the efficiency of using the system, as well as its economy. The best insulation in this case, penofol is considered - roll material with self-adhesive layer and foil coating. All you need is to glue the butt joint over the entire concrete surface, after which the joints should be sealed with foil tape. It should be noted that penofol should go a few centimeters onto the walls to increase the thermal insulation of the room.


If you want to slightly reduce the height of the room, then instead of penofol, you can put another insulation, for example, polypropylene or expanded polystyrene.

At the end of the robot, it is recommended to glue a damper tape around the perimeter of the walls on top of the insulation, the purpose of which is to compensate for the expansion of the coating when heated. You also need to put a metal mesh on top of the heat-insulating layer, which will prevent direct contact with the heater and will simplify the process of installing an electric underfloor heating under the tile.

Temperature sensor installation

To monitor and control the system, it is necessary to install a special thermostat and temperature sensor. The thermostat is a regulator (mechanical or electronic) with which you can set the optimal temperature regime, as well as the system on/off time. It is mounted in the wall, next to the sockets.

As for the temperature sensor, it must be installed in the floor itself. To do this, a special strobe is created in the wall from the thermostat, which is directed strictly vertically to the ceiling. Next, the sensor is placed in a corrugated pipe and led to the temperature control point of the electric underfloor heating under the tile. This place is the middle between two turns of the cable, while there should not be any intersections near. The corrugation protects the sensor from damage, and also allows access to it at any time (for example, when it fails). For reliability, it is recommended that the end of the corrugation that will be in the screed be filled with sealant so that the solution does not get inside.

Control check of a heater

Before laying a cable (or mat), it is necessary to measure its resistance. This value should not differ from the passport data by more than 10%. To do this, you need to use a special device - a multimeter (shown in the photo below), which also determines where the phase is, if absent. If the resistance corresponds to the nominal, then it is possible to install an electric underfloor heating under the tile.

Cable fastening (or thermomat)

Now that the surface is already fully prepared, it is necessary to fix the heating element. If you use a cable, fasten with a mounting tape, as shown in the photo:

The distance between the turns must be the same over the entire area, otherwise the electric heating of the floor will be uneven. Heating mats are easier to install, because the distance between the turns is maintained along the entire length. All that is needed is to spread the material according to the diagram and connect it correctly to the thermostat.

When the laying of the electric underfloor heating under the tiles is completed, it is necessary to check the correct connection by measuring the resistance with a multimeter. The resulting value should match the one you measured before laying.

Filling the screed

In order to make a concrete solution, you need to prepare the following ratio of materials:

  • 4 parts of sand;
  • 1 part cement;
  • 5 pieces of crushed stone;
  • 0.6 parts of water;
  • 1% by weight of cement special plasticizer (gives the solution elasticity).

It should be noted that the amount of water must be small, otherwise cracks in the screed may occur. As for expanded clay and perlite, it is strictly forbidden to add them to the solution, because. these materials disrupt heat transfer and are one of the causes of conductor overheating.

The thickness of the screed cake should be from 3 to 5 cm. It is not recommended to go beyond these values. After pouring, you must wait until the solution has completely solidified. Despite the fact that the screed will harden in a couple of days, it will completely dry out only after 4 weeks (or maybe more). Until this time, it is forbidden to turn on the electric floor heating.


We also draw your attention to the fact that a screed is required only if a heating cable is used. The thermomat can immediately after laying serve as a base for tile adhesive.

Laying tiles

After the screed has set (2-3 days), you can move on to tiling the floor without wasting time. It is recommended to do this only if you have experience, because you need to ensure that the surface is strictly horizontal. The tile "sits" on a special glue, after which the installation of an electric underfloor heating under the tile is considered complete!

That's the whole do-it-yourself laying technology. We recommend that you watch the video in which you can see some of the nuances of the event:

Video instructions for installing a warm electric floor

Heating cable laying

Also read:

Any major renovation of an apartment, and even a local renovation of a room, and even more so a renovation of a bathroom, will not do without replacing, supplementing or changing the wiring diagram. When planning these works, you must draw up a wiring diagram in the apartment (I talked about this in another blog article, and you can always read it), and in addition to the wiring diagram, decide on the wiring methods. But in order to decide on this, you need to know the methods of electrical wiring.

Try to carry out electrical installation in accordance with the latest edition of the EMP (Electrical Installation Rules), Edition 7th. Watch and download.

According to 7.1.37 - 7.1.39 PUE, when repairing an apartment, repairing a kitchen, repairing a bathroom, the following ways electrical wiring in the apartment:

  • Concealed wiring in the cable channels of building structures.
  • Concealed wiring - non-replaceable wiring, embedded in the wall or floor.
  • Electrical wiring in strobes. In buildings made of non-combustible building materials, to which include concrete, brick, cinder blocks, etc. Non-removable monolithic hidden wiring of group networks is allowed in the grooves (strobes) of walls, partitions, ceilings, under plaster, in the floor preparation layer or in the voids of building structures, carried out with a cable or insulated wires in a protective sheath.
  • Open wiring in electric stove, boxes, corrugation, etc.

Note: The use of non-replaceable monolithic concealed wiring of wires in panels of walls, partitions and ceilings, made during their manufacture at construction industry plants or wiring performed in the field joints of panels during the installation of buildings, is not allowed (PUE ed. 7)

Hidden wiring embedded in the walls

The very concept of hidden wiring implies that the wires used for wiring should not be visible. Consider concealed wiring in the strobes (furrows) of the walls.

There are several ways to make the strobe itself.

Wiring boxes for concealed wiring

Hidden wiring involves the installation of electrical boxes (sockets) for sockets and switches. To install the socket boxes, a niche of the required size is hollowed out. The socket boxes are frozen with alabaster, a cable is inserted into them, then the box is monolithic gypsum plaster. If hidden wiring is done under the tile, then the sockets must be monolithic so that they protrude slightly from the wall.

Concealed wiring in false ceilings and plasterboard partitions

Wiring laid in suspended ceilings and drywall partitions are also hidden wiring. It is carried out in plastic pipes, cable channels. Corrugation is good for this.

Corrugation from the French word gaufrer - to press the folds. In electrical wiring, a corrugation is a hose with diametrical stiffeners and steel wire laid inside.

The wire is intended for pulling electric wires or electric cables inside the corrugation. Corrugation is used not only for open, but also for hidden wiring. Corrugations of different diameters are produced.

Corrugation is pvc pipe, corrugated. The corrugation is produced in the following diameters: 16 mm, 20 mm, 25 mm, 32 mm, 40 mm, 50 mm, 63 mm. Corrugation is carried out only with a single cable, and not with a bundle of cables. To attach the corrugation with a cable to a wall or ceiling, special clip-on clips are used. The diameter of the clamps is selected according to the diameter of the corrugation.

Note: Hidden wiring in the corrugation should be carried out, according to the PUE (electrical installation rule) clause 7.1.38, only on non-combustible or slightly combustible surfaces.

Open wiring in the cable channel

The cable channel is designed for laying open wiring

Designed for laying open wiring. The cable channel is made of various materials plastic, steel or aluminium. For open wiring in an apartment, a plastic cable channel is usually used.

The most popular is a box, rectangular in profile, with a cover protecting the cable channel. Inside the channel, a partition is used to distinguish electrical cables into power and low-current ones. Installation of electrical switches, electrical sockets and other electrical installation products into the structure is carried out with a simple latch. The assembly and distribution of cable channels of the “box” type is facilitated through the use of accessory parts (L-shaped corner, T-shaped corner, plug, connector, outer corner, inner corner).

Cable channels are available in various sizes. The modern building materials market allows you to choose a cable channel in accordance with the requirements of your open wiring.

Electrical wiring.

By technical requirements wiring in the electric baseboard is the same as wiring in the cable channel - this is open wiring.

The electric plinth is a plinth made of PVC (polyvinylchloride-plastic) with a special cable channel in the middle from the front side. Cable laying can be done both in this cable channel and between the skirting board and the wall. Ideal for laying telephone, computer and antenna lines in open wiring. The electric plinth is easily attached to the wall with the help of dowel-nails, it is also easily connected to each other both in a straight line and at an angle of 90º.

Perhaps these are all the main methods of electrical wiring in an apartment used in apartment renovation, kitchen renovation or bathroom renovation. I hope this article is about wiring methods in an apartment: hidden wiring, open wiring, wiring in a corrugation, wiring in a cable channel, wiring in an electric baseboard is useful to everyone who carries out apartment renovations, room renovations or bathroom renovations.

These are all ways of wiring in the apartment. Good luck to you in your endeavors!

Wall chasing works (photo)

Shtroblenie hands

Hidden junction boxes



Warm electric floors are suitable for any type of floor covering. The device and principle of operation of the heating cable and mats allows the use of this type of heating system for laminate, parquet and linoleum.

It is also possible to lay warm electric floors under tiles, install an anti-icing system for paving stones and apply under other types of flooring.

Is it possible to lay a heating cable under the tile

For cold rooms finished with tiles, electric floors are better. Heating cable or mats provide fast and uniform heating of the surface, have good performance heat dissipation, as well as completely safe during operation.

The device of an electric cable underfloor heating under tiles is the best option for heating: a bathroom, an entrance hall, baths and saunas, balconies and loggias, sidewalk paths, etc.

The heating system has several main advantages over water and:

  1. Electric floor thickness. The heating cable must be installed in a screed. According to the manufacturer's instructions, the minimum floor thickness can be in the range of 3-5 cm. The mats are laid directly under the tiles, so they reduce the height of the ceilings by only 0.5 cm.
  2. Ease of installation. The technology of laying warm electric floors under ceramic tiles much easier than water or infrared heating. Easy to complete self-assembly heating systems, while you need a minimum set of construction tools.
    The easiest way is to put a self-regulating cable under the tile, when connecting it, you don’t even need to use a thermostat. The heating mats are also easy to install.
  3. Possibility of installation in rooms with complex layout. The use of a two-core cable allows you to make a heating system, taking into account the future placement of furniture, walls, insulating even small areas of the room that have an uneven shape.

Ceramic and any other tile has good heat dissipation characteristics. As a result, the optimal temperature in the room is easily achieved, overheating of the cable is excluded, which leads to a significant increase in the service life.

Varieties of cable floor systems

The technology for laying an electric underfloor heating under a tile depends on the type of cable chosen. All types of wire are usually classified as follows:
  • Resistor - the cable can have one or two conductive cores. It has a simple device, it works exclusively for heating. The intensity of heating is controlled by a thermostat.
  • Self-adjusting- the cable has two cores, between which there is a matrix that releases heat. The heating intensity depends on the room temperature. It does not require a thermostat to operate.
    The cable independently regulates the heating temperature, providing the most comfortable conditions for each part of the room. The only disadvantage of self-adjusting floors is their high cost and somewhat increased power consumption when used in large rooms.
  • Electrical cable mats- the optimal solution for rooms with low flows and the impossibility of carrying out wet work on the arrangement of the screed. After installing the heating mats, the height of the ceilings is reduced exactly by the layer of tile adhesive and the thickness of the floor covering, which is no more than 2 cm.
    The main advantage of heating mats is the ease of installation. Do-it-yourself styling is allowed. Installation requires mats to be laid correctly and connected to the nearest power source.

When choosing a floor heating system, it is important to consider who will install the electrical cable. If you plan to invite professional builders, it is better to purchase a single-core or two-core heating cable. In other cases, mats should be preferred.

How to install a cable floor system

You can start laying the cable floor only after drawing up detailed diagram laying, as well as a consistent work plan.


Laying tiles on an electric underfloor heating is carried out only after the screed has completely dried. The exception is heating mats. You can immediately install tiles on top of the mats.

How to lay tiles on a cable

There are several basic rules for laying tiles, following which significantly affects the performance and operation of underfloor heating:


The choice of cable depends on the conditions in which you plan to use it. Under paving slabs it is best to choose a solid wire with a reliable degree of internal and external insulation.

Why under the tile is better cable underfloor heating

The principle of operation of electric cable floors optimally meets the requirements for the efficient operation of ceramic and any other tiles:

Ceramic tile is one of the few types of flooring that does not emit harmful toxic substances when heated. Therefore, the combination of electric floors and tiles is advisable, and fully justified.

At finishing works when mounting is in progress ceiling tiles, it is important to correctly hide the wiring. This will require the services of an electrician. Solve the issue of concealment electrical wiring can be done in several ways.

Method #1. If the selected tile is two or more millimeters thicker than the cable itself, a strobe should be created on the back of the coating. You need to cut a V-shaped groove. He will hide the wire in himself when the tile is being installed. In order for the wire to fit correctly into the groove, it must be pulled.

Method #2. In the place where the electrical wire is laid, you need to install a special plastic box. It's called a cable channel. Its thickness should correspond to the thickness of the tile. It must be fixed with dowels and screws. After that, the wiring fits into the box. Then it remains only to directly mount the tile.

Method #3. Here, as in the first case, strobes are made, but not in the tile, but in the ceiling itself. This procedure must be carried out before installation work. Such electrical work Chelyabinsk requires certain skills, since a puncher is used. When laying the corrugated hose in the strobe, it is necessary to turn off the power supply.

The depth of the strobe should be at least 20 millimeters, and the width should be at least 12 millimeters. At the bottom of the strobe, fasteners are mounted, consisting of dowels and self-tapping screws with wire, which will press the electrical wiring to the ceiling.

Method #4. This is not the most convenient and aesthetic method. The wires are laid between the ceiling plates: either in the place where the plates are joined together, or in the grooves that are cut out on the front surfaces. To make the wiring not conspicuous, the docking points can be painted in the color of the ceiling. In addition, if the electrical cable is sufficiently rigid, if it is laid only at the joints, it will not be particularly noticeable anyway.

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