Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath with polystyrene foam. Bath insulation with harmless materials

September 3, 2016
Specialization: professional in the field of construction and repair (full cycle of finishing works, both internal and external, from sewerage to electrics and finishing works), installation of window structures. Hobby: see the column "SPECIALIZATION AND SKILLS"

Do-it-yourself bath insulation outside (as well as high-quality thermal insulation inside) is a prerequisite for maintaining a high temperature in the steam room and ensuring a comfortable microclimate in other rooms. Even walls made of energy efficient materials (porous concrete, hollow ceramic brick, glued laminated timber) must be insulated. And the buildings erected according to the traditional technology, this concerns first of all.

In this article I will give the algorithms that I use myself when performing external and internal thermal insulation of baths and saunas.

Thermal insulation of load-bearing structures

Exterior wall decoration with polymer panels

When starting thermal insulation work in a bath, many focus only on internal thermal insulation. This approach is fundamentally wrong, because by performing high-quality insulation with our own hands outside, we will provide additional protection against thermal energy losses.

This means that in order to get the heat we need in the steam room and comfortable coolness in the dressing room, it will be possible to spend less energy (it does not matter - firewood, gas or electricity). So the cost of insulation outside will pay off, and in the case of a bathhouse, even faster than with a living space.

Thermal insulation of walls can be carried out in two ways. There is no universal option, but I prefer to finish buildings made of bricks or concrete blocks with polystyrene or polystyrene followed by plastering, and the wood baths should be insulated using the "ventilated facade" technology.

First, let's figure out how a brick bath needs to be prepared for finishing:

1. I clean the walls by checking the joints between the blocks and, if necessary, repairing them.
2. The outer surface is primed, protecting the brick from efflorescence, fungus, and improving adhesion with the adhesive composition. If we neglect the primer, then we will not have time to blink an eye, as from a brick under a layer of insulation with high vapor barrier characteristics (and polymer plates pass air very poorly) salt will appear, destroying the bearing surfaces.
3. I install a U-shaped basement profile along the lower edge of the wall: it will not allow the insulation to slide down under its own weight.

1. Panels thermal insulation material- Styrofoam, expanded polystyrene or dense mineral wool - I stick it on the walls in a checkerboard pattern, using adhesive mixture based on high-quality cement with waterproofing additives.

You need to choose a heater for a bath according to its resistance to heat transfer: this indicator depends on the type of material and on its thickness. If internal thermal insulation is planned, then on the outside, 100 mm of foam or 50 mm of extruded polystyrene is sufficient.

1. Next, I take a hammer drill with a long drill and drill through the insulation so that the drill sinks 40-50 mm into the wall. I fix the foam with dowel-umbrellas, reinforcing the adhesive fasteners.

1. I perform plastering of the insulation, reinforcing the structure with an alkali-resistant polystyrene mesh.
2. I trowel the plaster and paint the outside walls with weather-resistant paint.

Frame facade

If the bathhouse is made of timber or logs, or it is erected using frame technology, then I prefer to equip the so-called ventilated facade. The obvious pole of this design is vapor permeability (it largely solves the problem of excess humidity in the room), so when deciding which one to choose for frame bath insulation, it is worth focusing on plates based on mineral fibers.

The work algorithm will differ significantly from the option described above:

1. First, we need to put in order the walls themselves - to clean, caulk the seams, treat all surfaces with antiseptic impregnations.

If there are signs of damage to the wood, then these areas must be sanitized, and if defects are severe, the logs or beams must be replaced. All the same, it makes no sense to insulate a rotten bath, since under a layer of heat-insulating material, the process of destruction of wood will go many times faster.

1. Then we install brackets on the walls, placing roofing material under their base or injure.

1. We attach the sheathing panels to the brackets. They are made either from a timber impregnated with an antiseptic, or from a steel galvanized profile. Despite the fact that the timber is more prone to deformation, I prefer to insulate the bath precisely on the wooden crate: after all, the metal conducts heat better and therefore it can become a "cold bridge" .

1. Next, we put heat-insulating material into the cells of the crate. When deciding which one is better for a frame bath, I settled on medium density mineral wool (up to 45kg / m3). But I know of cases when the place of basalt fiber slabs on the walls outside (as well as in the internal cavities of the frame) was sprayed with ecowool - five years have passed since the repair, and there are no complaints about the quality of insulation.

Mineral wool adheres perfectly to the cells due to its elasticity, but when compressed it loses some heat-saving properties. To avoid this, it is worth making the frame in strict accordance with the dimensions of the mineral wool slabs (standard - 600 mm), and in order to prevent the insulation from falling out, additionally fix it with several disc dowels.

1. Insulation for frame, timber or log baths must be covered with a windproof superdiffusion membrane. This material must be vapor-permeable, since otherwise moisture will accumulate under the skin and moisten the thermal insulation layer.
2. Further, it all depends on what dimensions our crate has. If we made it with a margin and there is a gap of at least 20 mm between the layer of insulation and the edge of the frame, then we immediately go to the sheathing. If there is no stock, then we press the thermal insulation panels with counter-lattice beams (I use parts with a section of 40x40): a block house, false beam or other decorative material will be attached to them.

Roof insulation

The uninsulated roof of a bathhouse is a source of about 20-30% of heat loss. Of course, we can block some of them by performing thermal insulation of the floor, but it is also advisable to finish the roof slopes themselves with materials with low thermal conductivity.

We act like this:

1. If there is no waterproofing layer under the roofing material (in the mind it must be there, but you never know!) - we lay a moisture-proof vapor-permeable membrane, passing it over the rafters. To do this, you almost always have to dismantle at least part of the roofing material, therefore, the waterproofing procedure should be performed even at the stage of construction of the structure.

1. We treat the rafters and elements of the roofing sheathing with an antiseptic (again, this must be done earlier).
2. In the gaps between the rafters, on the inside, we lay insulating material. The best choice for do-it-yourself roof insulation is basalt fiber in slabs or rolls with a thickness of 50 to 75 mm.
3. From the inside, we cover the insulation with a vapor barrier film, which we fix directly on the rafters. For additional fastening of the entire structure, either we stuff the transverse beams of the counter-lattice on the rafters, or we perform the filing of the roof with clapboard - in the second case, we will get a rather neat-looking attic.

Interior decoration

We insulate the floor

The answer to the question of how to insulate a bathhouse correctly from the inside is no less difficult. This set of procedures usually begins with work on the floor slab:

1. We cover the concrete base with roofing material, on which we install the support beams for the logs.

If the floor in the bath is done on the ground, then the soil must be compacted and covered with a layer of sand and gravel mixture with a thickness of 15 to 40 cm. The backfill is carefully rammed, and for greater stability it can be concreted.

1. We put logs on the support bars, the ends of which we fix on the walls of the room.
2. We fill the space between the lags with a layer of expanded clay. The thicker this layer is, the less heat loss through the lower air layer in the room will be.
3. We cover the expanded clay with a waterproofing film. In principle, you can equip a rough flooring on top of the expanded clay layer - but this is not necessary.
4. We lay panels of heat-insulating material between the lags. If we are finishing a dressing room or a rest room, then we can take expanded polystyrene or even do with foam, but only mineral wool is suitable for a steam room - it is important that the material is immune to high temperatures.

1. On top of the insulation, we lay a waterproofing vapor-tight membrane. The quality of waterproofing and vapor barrier is very important: by providing it, we minimize the risk of contact of the insulation with water.
2. Next, we lay the subfloor, and then equip the flooring from a solid board or from ceramic tiles. The board is "warmer" and more pleasant to the touch, but the tiles are easier to clean and less prone to swelling when wet, so it's your choice!

We decorate the walls

Sheathing the steam room, rest room and dressing room with our own hands, we must necessarily take care not only of their insulation, but also of the protection of thermal insulation from moisture and high temperatures. The steam room from this point of view is the most difficult premises, therefore, I will talk about the technology using its example:

1. The walls are primed with a moisture-protective antiseptic composition.
2. I mount the lathing beams on the walls in such a way that the distance from the edge of the timber to the wall is approximately equal to or slightly greater than the thickness of the insulating material.

When choosing which insulation is better for the steam room, you need to remember that we need a non-combustible material with low thermal conductivity. Polymer plates will not work here, and I would not risk it with ecowool, so there is no alternative to mineral fiber up to 100 - 150 mm thick (in the dressing room it is possible to have less).

1. Plates or rolls of insulation are placed in the cells of the crate, making sure that the fibers experience a minimum compressive load.
2. From above I cover the thermal insulation with a vapor barrier material. For most rooms, an ordinary membrane is also suitable, but in a steam room, foil film or polyethylene foam with a metallized coating will be appropriate. Yes, the price of such products is quite high, but in addition to protection mineral wool from moisture, they also act as a thermal mirror, reflecting heat into the steam room and providing solid energy savings.

1. Separately, I insulate the slopes: both the windows must be made as tight as possible, which will reduce the risk of drafts (in the bath, and on the steamed body - almost guaranteed a cold), as well as reduce heat loss.
2. Next, I equip the counter-lattice: stuffing thin slats onto the frame, which will ensure the formation of an air gap between the casing and the insulation.

1. I install on the counter grill decorative panels... For a steam room, clapboarding made of alder, poplar or other hardwood is usually practiced, but for rooms where the air does not warm up to such a high temperature, you can take a fairly cheap pine tree.
2. I also impregnate the decorative cladding with a moisture-proof compound to prevent rotting and reduce deformation of wet wood during temperature changes.

Minimizing losses through the ceiling

And log, and frame, and brick baths also need thermal insulation of the ceiling. But if the inside of the ceiling is insulated using approximately the same technology as the walls, then outside, i.e. from the attic side, you can use another technique:

1. We put two layers of fiberglass on top of the rough ceiling - it will act as a barrier to the liquid.
2. We prepare an insulating mortar: in a 1: 1 ratio, mix clay with sawdust or chopped straw, then fill the material with water and mix until a thick dough.

1. We fill the solution between the ceiling beams, making sure that the liquid does not seep through the fiberglass into the lower rooms.
2. We dry the clay (this is not a quick matter, it can take several weeks), and then we lay a layer of dense insulation.
3. Cover the heat-insulating material with a moisture-proof membrane, after which we fill in the cement fixing screed.

Thanks to this technology, we form a multi-layer cake with our own hands, which practically does not allow heat to pass through.

Conclusion

Thermal insulation of a bath is a whole range of works that (naturally, provided that it is implemented correctly) will minimize all heat losses, reduce the cost of heating the steam room, and, most importantly, provide a steady heat, for which we, in fact, go to the bath!

The video in this article will help you understand the nuances of the technology, and with complex questions you can always contact me or my colleagues in the comments below.

And the bathhouse is such a room in which the disappearance of even one percent is noticeable the right temperature, therefore, ceiling insulation becomes a priority here.

Polyfoam as a heater option

With any type of room insulation, many now prefer foam. This the material is appreciated for:

• ease;
• compactness;
• ease of installation;
• low cost.

How effective is such insulation and in what cases should only foam be used?

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of the bath with polystyrene and nothing more to you necessary if:

1. The ceilings of the room are very low and making them even lower is inappropriate and illogical.
2. In rooms where you need a material that does not absorb moisture.

The effectiveness of foam insulation- a fact proven by time. Heat saving increases significantly, there is no accumulation of condensate, there is no mold, insects do not start.

Pros and cons of the material

Styrofoam- nothing more than foamed polymers, which formed capsules with gas at a high temperature and retained their shape when cooled.

As a substance formed by gas, foam possesses a number of excellent insulation properties:

• ease;
• moisture resistance;
• durability;
• soundproofing;
• non-susceptibility to shrinkage.

In addition, in the price lists, polystyrene is consistently ranked among the cheapest building materials. For economical and fast insulation, just what you need.

However, don't get too fascinated and think that Styrofoam is perfect. Of course, it also has disadvantages, but to pay or not to pay attention to the shortcomings of this insulation - the choice is yours.

The disadvantages of foam are:

• flammability (due to the nature of its formation - with the help of gas);
• not too long service life, which may be further reduced due to violation of the installation technology;
• unsuitable for insulating wooden rooms. In practice, this is possible, but only subject to availability high-quality ventilation;
• fragility;
• the release of toxic substances during combustion that can cause paralysis of the respiratory tract;
• poor quality of some brands of foam produced in artisanal conditions.

Are Styrofoam and Styrofoam the same thing?

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a bath with polystyrene foam can be somewhat diversified, while maintaining the fidelity of the choice to this particular material.

You could not help but hear about an improved form of polystyrene - expanded polystyrene. In fact, these are the same plates of capsules filled with a gaseous substance, only stronger, stronger, better.

Let's analyze the quality of expanded polystyrene:

• it is not as fragile as polystyrene, even with not very careful transportation, the corners of the polystyrene foam plate remain intact;
• this material does not ignite as quickly as foam filled with highly combustible gas;
• the operational life of expanded polystyrene is from 15 to 35 years, of polystyrene - from 10 to 20.

As for the price, expanded polystyrene is only 5-10% more expensive than its "big brother".

Technology

No matter how good the material is, non-compliance with the accuracy of the installation technology can negatively affect the quality of heat saving over time.

Therefore, having prepared required material, read the step-by-step instructions carefully.

Frame installation

Needed:

• foam sheets;
• metal profile or wooden bars 50x50;
• vapor barrier film.

Stages:

1. Clean the ceiling from dirt and dust, eliminate irregularities, if any. Treat the surface with an antiseptic.
2. Remove the electrical wiring. To do this, use a special protective bellows.
3. Attach beams or a profile to the ceiling at a distance of 50 cm. Make sure that the shape of the beams attached takes the form of a large cage, each cell of which should correspond in size to the foam sheet.
4. Install the foam with dowels or glue.
5. Treat joints and crevices polyurethane foam.
6. Attach a vapor barrier to the insulation.
7. In conclusion, take up the installation of drywall, wood or other material that matches the overall interior.

Adhesive mounting option

Needed:

• foam sheets in an amount corresponding to the total area of ​​the ceiling;
• adhesive composition.

Stages:

1. Clean the ceiling, treat it with an antiseptic and prime it for a better adhesive bond and surface.
2. Prepare an adhesive composition or use a ready-made one.
3. Apply the adhesive to the styrofoam sheet (in continuous lines along the edge and with a dash in the center of the board). Press the Styrofoam sheet as tightly against the ceiling as possible and hold for a few seconds.
4. If you insulate the ceiling with expanded polystyrene, then all sheets should be prepared in advance: scratch with an iron brush on the working side (the one on which you will apply the adhesive).
5. Start glueing the sheets from the middle of the ceiling in a checkerboard pattern.
6. For greater reliability, the foam sheets can be additionally attached with dowels after the glue dries.
7. On top of the foam, glue the arm-netting and putty.

So is it worth it to insulate with foam?

And yet, there is an opinion among experts that all the disadvantages of polystyrene are more far-fetched than real.

The popularity of foam sheets among developers is second to none. And if we talk about warming as a low-cost, simple and fast process, then you can hardly find material better than it.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling of a bath with polystyrene foam can be carried out without problems by a non-professional, a person who first took up repair work.

But, when buying foam boards, you need to be very careful, so as not to bring a pile of small balls instead of whole sheets. Use products from trusted manufacturers only.

Polyfoam began to be produced not so long ago, in the 50s of the XX century. It consists of air bubbles enclosed in the thinnest polystyrene shell. Since most of the material is air (up to 98% depending on the brand), the foam has excellent thermal insulation characteristics and therefore is often used as insulation.

Its popularity is due not only to its insulating properties. There is also a whole list of positive qualities:

• Durability - up to 50 years normal conditions and up to 20 years in severe (with large temperature drops);
• Hydrophobicity. Polyfoam absorbs up to 0.2% moisture per day, i.e. we can say that it does not absorb it at all.
• Biological neutrality and stability. The temperature regime at which the material remains stable (does not collapse and does not emit any substances) is from -60 ° C to + 95 ° C. The safety of foam is confirmed by the fact that products made from it use packaging food products, used in children's toys. These are two industries in which the safety of the materials used has received great attention lately. And no one ever talked about the dangers of Styrofoam.
• Low price. However, very cheap offers should be treated with caution: products must have certificates. Improperly manufactured materials can be hazardous.
• Styrofoam is easy to work with. It is lightweight, easy to cut, easy to assemble, does not require any additional protective equipment or devices.
• There is no breeding ground for fungi, spores and bacteria, and is not damaged by insects.

It seems that everything is quite reasonable and understandable, but there are also negative properties: polystyrene is combustible and, when burned, releases substances hazardous to humans. This is true. But all burning materials give off life-threatening substances. And in order to make the foam less dangerous from the point of view of fire safety, non-combustible additives have been added to it in recent decades. As a result, modern foam does not burn, but melts and is self-extinguishing, i.e. does not support combustion. Harmful substances from the foam are released not when heated, but when melted, i.e. when the temperature reaches above 95 ° C. It should also be noted that the spontaneous combustion temperature of the foam is more than + 490 ° C (for wood + 280 ° C). If a fire is not allowed, there will be no harmful emissions. In any case, this is what the manufacturers say. Believe it or not is a question, but no one has yet proven otherwise. And yet, foam is harmful or not, whether to use it or not, everyone decides for himself.

Both the advantages and disadvantages of foam can be attributed to its complete impermeability to air and steam. This means that for rooms and houses with foam insulation, a good system ventilation.

There is one more negative quality of this material: its weak resistance to mechanical stress. Since air bubbles are enclosed in the thinnest polymer shell, it is easily damaged, dents, scratches, etc. appear on blocks or slabs in places of impacts. Therefore, if foam is used to insulate a foundation or facade, additional reinforcement and / or a protective coating is required.

Is it possible to insulate the bath with polystyrene foam?

From all that has been said, we can conclude that it is possible to use polystyrene as a heater, but it is extremely undesirable to use it in the steam room of a Russian bath and, moreover, in a steam room of a Finnish sauna: temperature conditions there such that the thermal insulation may well heat up to 95 ° C and higher, after which the foam will begin to lose its chemical stability.

In general, polystyrene is recommended to be used for thermal insulation of walls outside, or walls inside the room, but which do not go outside. This is due to the high thermal insulation capacity of the foam. If you put it on the wall from the inside, then outer wall will be insulated from heat almost completely, which will lead to a shift of the dew point into the wall. That is, condensation will form inside the wall. In freezing temperatures, it will freeze / thaw, which will lead to the rapid destruction of the material. Therefore, if the bath is insulated with foam, then only outside, or its internal partitions, but not from the side of the steam room.

Thermal insulation of the walls of the bath with polystyrene foam. It is better to insulate outside so that the dew point is in the insulation

The insulation of the walls outside with foam plastic itself has very good reviews: it is cooler in the room in summer, warmer in winter, the cost of maintaining a comfortable microclimate becomes less. Another plus: the room becomes noticeably quieter. But for normal health, a well-functioning ventilation system is important: excess moisture is not removed through the walls, and since many have plastic windows, then through the windows too. There is only one thing left possible variant: effective ventilation.

If we talk about the bath, then there is no need to insulate a wood bath with foam: wood itself has excellent heat-insulating properties. But a bathhouse made of bricks or building blocks can be insulated with foam plastic.

Since the foam has excellent thermal insulation properties and is not afraid of moisture, it is successfully used for thermal insulation of foundations. True, to protect it from mechanical stress, a protective partition is needed. It is made either from boards, a cheaper, but also much less durable option, or from brick (half-brick wall).

For loam and clay soils, insulation of the foundation with foam is almost an ideal option. Due to the fact that the foam hardly absorbs water, it protects the foundation from winter and spring heaving: it simply prevents water from seeping and absorbing into the foundation material. It is not recommended to use foam only if flooding occurs frequently during high level groundwater: water can seep under the insulation layer, because it is almost impossible to achieve perfect tightness.

With a simple foundation geometry, foam slabs are most often chosen. For central Russia, their thickness should be at least 5 cm. But for better thermal insulation in the corners of the foundation, it is better to lay 10 cm thick slabs - in these places the heat loss is the most significant.

Preparatory work on insulation of the foundation with foam

Around the foundation, soil is removed to the depth of freezing (better - a little lower), the walls are cleaned and primed. The primer can be bought on the market, or you can make it yourself: you need molten bitumen, to which you need to add the same amount of diesel fuel or gasoline. Apply the resulting mixture to the foundation, wait until it dries (about 1 hour). A layer of waterproofing must be applied to the primed foundation. It can be liquid rubber (applied with a brush) or rolled bitumen materials (fused using a torch). Then proceed to the installation of the foam.

Installation of foam plates on the foundation

It is better to lay the bottom row of slabs on a rigid base. If you are just planning a foundation, you can make a special ledge on which the foam plates will rest. If the foundation is already standing, but there is no ledge, gravel bedding, on which the foundation itself stands, can serve as an emphasis.

You need to fix the foam plates either on bitumen-polymer mastic or polyurethane glue. But the glue should not contain acetone, gasoline and toluene, as they destroy polystyrene. The adhesive is applied pointwise or on the entire surface of the plate, but the joints must be glued. Some manufacturers make slabs with an L-shaped lock (it also needs to be lubricated with adhesive), which makes the connection of the slabs more tight and reliable. With such a connection, cold bridges are practically not formed and the tightness of the entire insulation becomes almost perfect.

Sometimes it is advised to lay the plates in two layers, displacing the seams relative to each other - in this way, losses through the joints of polystyrene plates are also reduced. But this method has opponents: they say that water will seep between the two layers of foam. Then the thermal insulation properties will deteriorate significantly. Such a probability, of course, exists, especially with vertical displacements of the soil (shrinkage), but how great it is is difficult to judge.

After the foam is laid along the entire perimeter to the desired thickness, you need to apply another layer of waterproofing material on top (all the same bituminous roll materials or liquid rubber). Above, you can already arrange a protective brick wall. Sometimes boards are used. A good option is geotextile. It also copes very well with the loads from the soil (it is laid under the asphalt when constructing autobahns). Other options are possible. The main thing is to protect the foam from the load of the soil.

The last stage of thermal and waterproofing of the foundation (this is how it turns out as a result, if you use foam) - the device of the blind area. In general, thermal insulation of the foundation with foam plastic is quite troublesome, but as a result, your foundation is protected from moisture, and you do not have to worry about soil heaving, and spend much less on heating.

It is possible to insulate the floor in the bug with polystyrene, especially under the screed: the floor will be warm, and the foam is not afraid of moisture.

Warming with foam plastic of a ground floor

For this, the soil is leveled, if it is loose, compacted and left for 30 days. Then 10 cm of medium-sized gravel is poured and compacted, 10 cm of sand on top, which is also compacted. A polyethylene film is laid on the sand, and foam sheets are already on it. The sheets are fastened with locks, and coated with the same bitumen-polymer mastic or polyurethane glue that does not contain solvents. A polyethylene film is again laid on top of the foam, on which the reinforcing mesh is laid. The base for the concrete screed is ready. The floor will be quite reliable and will withstand any loads if the thickness of the screed is at least 6 cm. In terms of the level of heat and moisture insulation, there are few equal to it.

Insulation of the floor with foam plastic between the lag

If you insulate the floors between the logs, then it is advisable to cut the foam exactly to size, and blow out the inevitable cracks with polyurethane foam: heat goes into the cracks significantly. In this case, it is possible to use any type of foam, including granular, because boards will be laid on top, and the entire load will fall on them. To improve the waterproofing properties, a polyethylene film is also laid under the foam and on top of it. In a steam room, such an option for floor insulation can hardly be used, but in a locker room or dressing room - quite.

Thermal insulation of the bath roof with foam

You can use foam as insulation over the steam room only in the second layer: if a layer of clay is applied to the ceiling, expanded clay is poured or mineral wool is laid, the foam plastic can become the next layer of the cake. But in this situation, it is necessary to make the ceiling vapor protection very high quality, otherwise the vapor will "get stuck" in the lower layer of thermal insulation. Ventilation in the room should also work at "five" - ​​to remove this very steam. So, if there are other options for insulating the roof of the bath, use them.

In order to clearly demonstrate how effective the foam is in comparison with other materials, we found the following data: foam with a thickness of 6 cm in terms of thermal insulation properties replaces:

• mineral wool 11cm thick;
• tree - 19.5cm;
• dry foam concrete - 50cm;
• brick wall 85cm;
• concrete 213.2cm.

Impressive. It is so? But to insulate a bath, foam plastic should be used either for external insulation of walls and facades or for insulation of premises without high temperatures. Please note that under the ceiling in washing department the temperature often reaches + 90 ° C, which is almost critical for foam.

How to insulate a frame bath - nuances from the master

Frame buildings require thermal protection, especially when it comes to a bath with a steam room, since in this room long time there must be a high temperature. Careful DIY thermal insulation will minimize heat loss.

Materials for thermal protection of frame baths

When choosing a heater for a frame bath, it is necessary to take into account not only the heat-insulating characteristics of a particular material, but also its ability to withstand significant temperatures at a constant high level of humidity.

In addition, a heater for a sauna building, when the room is heated, should not emit toxic compounds that negatively affect the health of people taking the procedures.

In order to improve the thermal insulation parameters, the insulation of a frame bath, such as in the photo, can be done using the following materials:

1. Mineral wool... Its slabs consist of thin fibers, which are obtained by melting rocks or waste from metallurgical enterprises. In the process of weaving a large number of these fibers, air is retained between them, due to which the products have excellent thermal insulation qualities. As a result of the peculiarities of the production of mineral wool, the material can withstand very intense heating, while its performance characteristics do not change. In conditions of high humidity, such plates retain heat-saving properties and do not collapse.
2. Reed slabs... They belong to natural and environmentally friendly heat insulators. Their thickness is 15 centimeters and this parameter is very convenient when building frame structures.
3. Insulation from sawdust-gypsum mixture... To make it, you need to mix 10 parts of dried fine sawdust with 1 part of cement (gypsum). Insulating a frame bath from the inside using this mixture has a significant advantage - affordable cost and excellent thermal insulation (read: "How and how to insulate a bath inside - advice from a master").
4. Foamed synthetic products- polyurethane foam, polystyrene, etc. They have a number of advantages, among which are low price, resistance to moisture, ease of installation, low weight, low thermal conductivity. But these synthetic insulation materials cannot be mounted on elements of a sauna building, where exposure to high temperatures is possible, therefore they insulate walls that are far from the stove. They are placed in the dressing room, rest rooms or washroom.

Arrangement of vapor barrier

Before starting work, you must definitely know how to properly insulate frame bath to perform it efficiently. Regardless of which of the materials was chosen as insulation, when laying it in the cells of the frame, it is necessary to provide reliable vapor barrier (in more detail: "Steam insulation of a bath - the choice of material and its installation").

If you do not cut off the insulation from the atmosphere of the bath with its high humidity, it will absorb water during the cooling process, which will certainly lead to the most undesirable consequences:

• a wet heat insulator will significantly increase its own thermal conductivity and heat will quickly move from the room to environment;
• the porous structure will not allow the material to dry quickly, which means that mold may appear and the frame of the building will begin to rot.

Thus, when a frame bath is made, the walls are insulated using high-quality vapor barrier.

• aluminum foil - not only will protect the insulation from the influence of moisture, but will also reflect thermal energy;
• polyethylene film;
• glassine is environmentally friendly and inexpensive.

It is undesirable to use roofing material, as in the process of heating it begins to smell unpleasant. When installing the vapor barrier, it must not be allowed that even the smallest gaps remain between the pieces of material. The tightness of the joints is ensured with the help of metallized adhesive tape, or by overlapping adjacent canvases.

Insulation of the walls of the frame building

They begin to equip the thermal protection of a frame bath building simultaneously with the construction of its walls. The fact is that the use of this technology assumes that the heat insulator is also a structural material. When a bath is built from insulation with your own hands, its layers are laid out between the supporting elements of the frame. A vapor barrier is mounted on top of it.

At the end of the insulation work, a semblance of a cake is obtained, in the center of which there is a heat-insulating material, sheathed on the inside with a vapor barrier, and on the outside with waterproofing.

The outer layer of the cake will be represented by decorative trim inside the bath rooms, and outside - by the facade cladding. Both of these layers will not only become additional thermal protection, but will also serve as a structural element, which will increase the strength of the entire building.

Among professionals, the best option is considered to be the laying of two layers of heat-insulating material in the bath frame. Moreover, it is desirable to make the first of them from tiled insulation, and the second from roll insulation. As a result, such a thickness of the walls of the frame bath is able to reliably protect the premises from heat loss.

In the process of laying insulation, special attention should be paid to the fact that most materials have different sides - external and internal. To distinguish between them, pay attention to the recommendations of the product manufacturers.

Thermal insulation of the wall next to the stove

For the wall frame and insulation located close to sauna stove, it is necessary to create additional protection to prevent them from being affected by high temperatures. Some experts consider the use of asbestos sheets and slabs to be the best choice in solving this problem.

But since there is an opinion about the dangers of asbestos for human health, it is advisable to choose more modern options, including needle-punched mats, isolon, basalt fabrics and others. All of these materials can withstand temperatures of several hundred degrees and therefore are capable of providing absolute fire safety.

Refractory protection is mounted in one of two ways:

• decorative trim on top;
• directly onto the vapor barrier.

It is pointless to equip a vapor barrier using a plastic film, since it will melt near the sauna stove. The best solution would be to use aluminum foil, which is glued with heat-resistant foil tape to ensure tightness.

Heat protection of the ceiling and floor

In a frame sauna building, heat loss occurs not only due to the walls, since a considerable amount of thermal energy leaves the room through the ceiling and floor covering. Accordingly, the procedure for insulating a frame bath provides for their thermal insulation.

Insulation is laid at the stage of floor installation, following a certain procedure:

• pre-prepared and tamped soil is poured with a concrete screed;
• create a waterproofing layer of dense polyethylene film or roofing material;
• lay plates of heat-insulating material;
• equip external waterproofing;
• pour another layer of concrete base.

After final hardening, in order to increase the service life of the rough concrete surface, it must be treated with a special waterproofing compound. Thanks to the use of this agent, moisture will not be able to penetrate even the smallest cracks in the concrete and destroy it and the thermal insulation. See also: "How to build a frame bath with your own hands - construction instructions."

When insulating the ceiling, they use the method that is used when laying a heat insulator into the walls of a frame bath building:

• a vapor barrier is fixed on the ceiling;
• insulating material is laid;
• the second layer of vapor barrier is attached;
• make the finishing plating.

There is one difference in comparison with the order of wall insulation, when no gap is left between the vapor barrier and the cladding - there must be free space when insulating the ceiling. Due to the presence of a gap, the decorative finishing of the ceiling will dry faster, because during the operation of the bath, it is constantly exposed to hot vapors.

Thermal insulation of a bath with foam

If a decision is made to make thermal insulation using this material, then the room needs to be equipped with high-quality ventilation, since it does not allow steam and air to pass through. The fact is that when a foam bath is being built with their own hands, they cannot insulate the steam room due to the negative impact of high temperatures on it (read also: "How to insulate a steam room correctly and what materials to use"). In addition, cheap material may contain toxic compounds.

Thermal insulation of the floor in the bath - implementation options

Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a bathhouse is very important.

To underestimate this part of the arrangement of the premises means to finish the work poorly, since then you will be haunted by two problems:

• Heat dissipation through a floor surface with high thermal conductivity. Consequently, the cost of heating the steam room will increase significantly.
• The burning contrast of the cold floor and the surrounding hot air. This is not only discomfort for your body, but also the subsequent loss of condensation, which can lead to mold and decay of the boards.

The floors can be concrete or wood. Based on this, we will consider the most convenient ways to insulate them.

Concrete floor

Insulation of the concrete floor in the bath takes place after the construction of the entire building.

To achieve a high-quality effect, you can use the following materials:

Expanded clay

This material is made by short-term firing of low-melting clay. The technical characteristics of expanded clay allow its use, both in concrete and in wood flooring... And the low price is an additional argument in its favor.

To carry out a high-quality installation of this insulation, the instructions will help you:

• We calculate the approximate load on the base in order to know the required thickness of the future insulation layer.

Advice: never mix expanded clay with concrete. Cement does not have such low thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, so the end result will be impaired.

• We lay a layer of waterproofing. A plastic film three millimeters thick is great, and at the joints we fasten it with mounting tape. We draw the edges so that they lie on the wall. After filling the insulation, all unnecessary is cut off.

• Install a reinforced grill on top and fill cement mortar.
• After complete solidification, the insulated floor in the bath is ready for use.

Glass bottles

This is the cheapest floor insulation in a bath, since it does not require the cost of purchasing the insulation itself. You just need to collect the spent empty bottles. In addition, not only glass, but also plastic eggplants are suitable.

The trick is what we will create in concrete pavement a warm, sealed air cushion.

Installation of such a structure is also elementary:

• We wash and dry the prepared containers thoroughly.
• We put them on prepared for concrete screed base.
• We fill everything with liquid cement mortar so that it covers the walls of the bottles.
• From above, after drying, we carry out the finishing screed from a more durable mixture.

Styrofoam

This material has a number of remarkable qualities, thanks to which it is used not only for insulating the floor, but also for the walls and ceiling of the bath:

• Low price. Not as low as when using essentially discarded bottles, but much lower than many other heaters.
• High heat-saving properties due to the presence of many air bubbles in its structure.
• Noise isolation.
• Fire safety. It is a self-extinguishing substance and does not emit toxins during combustion.
• The service life is more than fifty years.
• Absence of processes of decay, shrinkage and other age-related deformations.
• Ease of installation, which is greatly facilitated by the light weight of the material.

It is installed equally well both under the screed and under the boards:

• Lay a layer of waterproofing.
• On top of it we lay the foam plates in a checkerboard pattern. This will betray greater structural reliability.
• We seal the gaps with polyurethane foam or waste material.
• We mount a metal grill and fill cement screed.
• The frozen floor can be put into operation.

Wood floors

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor in a bath is even less demanding than in the case of concrete. In addition to the unusual bottle method, all the insulation materials used in the cement sheath can also be used under the planks.

This is due to the installation technology:

• We install wooden logs on a roughly prepared base.

• We put insulating material between the lags. It can be expanded clay, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, foam insulation, polyurethane, etc.
• We lay waterproofing to protect against possible moisture ingress from above.
• We mount the boards, fixing them with nails to the logs.

Separately, one should consider such insulation as mineral wool, which is not suitable for lining under a concrete layer, but demonstrates itself perfectly in a wooden structure:

• The lowest coefficient of thermal conductivity is about 0.04 W / mK.
• Non-flammability. Not even afraid of open flames.
• Inertness to household chemicals.
• High sound insulation.
• Ecological cleanliness. This material is made from rock minerals, which makes its use absolutely harmless.
• Durability. Does not rot, corrode, attack by pests and mold.

Despite the not the lowest price, such insulation will qualitatively solve the problem of a cold floor in your bathhouse or sauna.

Underfloor heating system

Another option for insulating the floor covering in the bath is the installation of an underfloor heating system. In this case, you can choose a design based on electric heating elements or water pipes.

Such floors are capable of not only making the floor warm, but also heating the entire room. Therefore, if used in a steam room, they can participate in creating the necessary environment. Placing them in other rooms of the building will make it possible to comfortably move barefoot.

They are installed in the same way as other heaters under a reinforced lattice and a screed in concrete floor and between the lags for boards in a wooden one. An important addition is the need to install an insulating material under the system to prevent heat loss to the ground.

Conclusion

Warm floor in the bath is a guarantee of your health and quality rest. And also saving your budget by lowering your heating costs.

There are many ways. From incredibly cheap to very expensive. It all depends on your preferences and financial capabilities.

The video in this article will provide additional resources on the topic.

Warm floor - a guarantee of a warm bath!

Thermal insulation of the bath, and even more so the frame must be done correctly. Insulation material frame structure it is necessary to choose an environmentally friendly and non-combustible, while with high heat-saving properties. How to insulate a frame bath correctly and choose the optimal material, you can find out by reading the article to the end.

Frame bath without additional insulation the walls will be cold and it will not be possible to use it.

Types of heaters for a bath

Insulation for a frame bath is best used in the form of mats.

If you choose the wrong insulation or put it in an insufficient layer, then the functionality of the steam room will be lost. Materials for warming a frame bath are natural and artificial. The bathhouse and synthetic insulation are incompatible, of course, the design will be cheap, but some may emit harmful vapors when heated. Natural include:

1. Woody fibrous.
2. Basaltic.
3. Linen.

To artificial:

1. Fiberglass.
2. Expanded polystyrene.

According to their shape, types are chosen for a frame bath: tiled or matte. A roll is also fine, but it will be more difficult to fit it into a frame cake. Any beginner can cut and lay insulation in the form of slabs or mats, it is enough to understand the technology and finish reading this article.

Wood fiber insulation

Wood fiber insulation is made from sawn timber waste.

The basis of the material is wood fibers, which are bonded with various synthetic fibers. It is non-allergenic and does not irritate the skin when styled. The material is made by recycling sawn timber. It is a misconception that such a heater is made from waste paper. Due to the ability to absorb moisture and also quickly give it away, the frame bath will breathe like a full-fledged wooden one. One of the brightest representatives of wood fiber insulation is ecowool, the price of which is from 120 rubles. / kg.

The main disadvantage is precisely the ability to absorb moisture. If the hood in the bath is performed with errors, then the humidity can linger for a long time in the structure of the walls and they will begin to rot.

Basalt insulation

Basalt wool is made from mineral fibers by binding them with an adhesive. The main advantages are:

1. High heat-saving properties.
2. Does not burn, can withstand temperatures up to 900 ° C.
3. It does not lose its quality characteristics over the years, therefore the service life is more than 20 years.
4. Increases sound insulation.
5. Does not absorb moisture and does not retain it in the frame structure.

The main disadvantage of the material was discovered at the end of 2014. Previously, it was considered one of the most environmentally friendly materials. It turned out that the adhesive used for gluing basalt fibers can emit insignificant vapors of formaldehyde. Whether or not the reaction intensifies during heating of the steam room, no studies have been carried out.

Linen fiber insulation

Linen mats began to be used not so long ago. The material is made from compressed flax fibers. There are no additives in the composition, for example, formalin. the material is completely environmentally friendly and is capable of absorbing - releasing moisture. And due to the dense pressing, the boards have a high ability to save heat.

The main disadvantage of the slabs is the insufficient test of time and rodents. Mice love to build nests in flax fiber and gnaw holes in the walls. Over time, the bath will lose its thermal insulation properties.

Fiberglass insulation

Glass wool emits fine fiberglass particles during operation. which are dangerous to human health.

Glass wool is made from glass fibers bonded with synthetic glue. It is difficult to work with the material with your own hands, since when the fibers get into the air, they settle on the skin and enter the respiratory tract. They can cause skin irritation and allergic reactions.

Glass wool has no less advantages:

1. Does not burn.
2. The price is low.
3. Easy to assemble.
4. Possesses high thermal insulation.
5. Creates a slight soundproofing.

If the choice fell on glass wool, then all work on the insulation of the frame bath must be performed in protective clothing and a respirator.

Expanded polystyrene for insulation

Polyfoam can be used to insulate the walls of a frame bath.

Expanded polystyrene is made by foaming polystyrene. Moreover, the more and less air bubbles in the material, the higher its heat-insulating properties. One of the brightest representatives of polystyrene. It is possible to insulate the walls of a frame bath with polystyrene foam, but it is not recommended. Moreover, insulate the ceiling and the space around the chimneys. Expanded polystyrene has a high fire hazard. It ignites from any spark. If the structure is insulated with foam, then the cake must be protected. The material has a number of advantages:

1. Low price. (The cheapest option for insulation).
2. Waterproof.

Any of the listed materials is used to insulate a frame bath. The main thing is to complete the installation, observing all the rules.

Do-it-yourself installation of insulation

There are two ways to insulate a frame bath:

1. Classic pie. When the insulation is laid between the outer boards and the interior trim.
2. Additional. Usually done from the facade.

Classic insulation

The classic cake for warming a frame bath is made from the inside of the building.

Classic insulation consists of a pie: vapor barrier, insulation, vapor barrier, interior decoration.

Steam - waterproofing is performed from the inside of the bath after boards or panels of sawdust are fixed on the outside. The vapor barrier is laid directly on them and frame beam... It is necessary to mount the material with an overlap of 10-15 cm. The joints are glued with tape. You can attach the material directly to the tree with a construction stapler.

The insulation is placed in the formed cells. The standard thickness of the insulation is 50 mm and 100 mm. If the bath will be used all year round, then take 100 mm and fit in two layers. This layer will be enough to keep the steam room warm in winter temperatures down to -35 ° C. For southern regions, one layer of 100 mm is sufficient.

The bathhouse, used only in summer seasons, does not require thorough insulation, so it is enough to lay 1–2 layers of 50 mm.

When installing, the joints should be as small as possible, and in places where the insulation does not fit, you need to protect it with polyurethane foam. The second layer of slabs is laid on the first so that the joints of the upper one do not coincide with the lower ones. You can fix the insulation with special fungus screws. They have a wide head that will securely attach the material to the wall. If foam is chosen as insulation, then it can be glued to the wall with ordinary tile glue.

The next layer is again the vapor barrier. This layer is missed by many, but it is necessary when using a material that absorbs water, such as ecowool.

Foil-clad membrane material is used as waterproofing. It is laid with foil to the steam room, the joints are sealed with foil tape. Waterproofing with such a material will not only play a protective function against moisture, but will also help keep heat in the steam room, reflecting it.

External insulation of the frame structure

Polyfoam is attached to the facade of the bath using an adhesive composition.

External insulation is optional. For a frame bath, it is better to make a ventilated facade, so condensation will not accumulate under the facade cladding and the walls will last longer. Usually, the facade of the bath is insulated with polystyrene foam.

Initially, a crate is made on the walls of metal profiles or a bar of 40x40 mm. Before installation, the timber is covered with an antiseptic or liquid glass, which penetrates deep into the tree and protects it from various harmful effects.

The step of the lathing depends on the width of the insulation sheet. If the foam is 60 cm wide, then the step must correspond to it. You can fix the foam to the walls with special screws or glue. The material is lightweight and can be glued alone.

If the insulation of the facade is additional, then it is not necessary to take too thick insulation. It is not necessary to mount the vapor barrier on the foam, it will repel water, and air does not penetrate through the material. A counter-lathing is attached to the lathing and finishing is mounted, for example siding or timber imitation panels.

Before insulation, the outer skin of the frame and the structure itself are covered with antiseptics. If this is not done, then any ingress of moisture will be critical for the bath.

The design of the insulation resembles a multi-layer cake, which should not be excluded from the layers-stages. It is not difficult to insulate a frame bath with your own hands, but it is laborious. Not everyone is able to do the finishing of the entire structure with their own hands, so you can contact the specialists. On average, insulation of a frame bath in Russia costs from 200 rubles / m². In terms of the size of the walls, the service is not cheap. It's cheaper to do everything yourself, but you can work gradually.

The peculiarity of the bath is that its floors, walls, ceiling are exposed to high temperature and humidity. The insulation in these structures will also heat up to a high temperature.
But can modern heaters be heated?
If so, to what temperature?
How to prevent the impact of high humidity on the insulation?

Normal operation of most synthetic insulation at elevated temperatures is impossible.
They begin to vigorously emit harmful substances or decompose. Therefore, warming a bath is a special process, it is necessary to take into account the high temperature and humidity.

Styrofoam is not suitable

It is difficult to use polystyrene or expanded polystyrene to insulate a bath. When heated to 60 degrees, these materials emit many times more poisonous styrene. In fact, they begin to decompose.

But the heating of the wall of the bath (steam room) can reach 80 degrees. Even if the foam is on outer surface walls, then its surface adjacent to the wall will warm up enough to start the increased emission of harmful substances.

It is not allowed to use polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam for warming the hot zone. These materials cannot withstand higher temperatures.

The use of mineral wool is limited

Mineral wool contains the poisonous element formaldehyde, the maximum concentration of which in the air should be no more than 0.02 mg / m3.
When mineral wool is heated, the emission of formaldehyde also increases. Therefore, it is not advisable to use this cotton wool inside the bath.

Outside, on the heated wall, mineral wool must be ventilated through the ventilation duct above the insulation (reduced pressure is created) with the outgoing jet diverted to the atmosphere. Only if there is effective ventilation outside and complete vapor barrier from the interior is it allowed to use mineral wool on hot walls.

For insulation, in areas where the material can heat up, it is recommended to use only environmentally friendly, heat-resistant heat insulators.

How to insulate the ceiling

The ceiling of the bath is always warmed up the most. Ceiling slabs are often made of thin planks that have little or no resistance to steam movement.

To insulate the ceiling of the bath, it is advisable to use materials that do not emit harmful substances at all. In this case, the insulation is carried out from the side of the attic on the floor.

Suitable materials for insulating the ceiling in the bath will be:

• felt in layers, with a total thickness of 15 centimeters
• expanded clay with a layer of 40 centimeters.
• cellulose wadding with a thickness of 12 cm or more.
• loose vermiculite, from 12 cm thick

How to use insulation on the ceiling

These are the minimum thicknesses. But, to reduce heat loss, increase efficiency, increase the cooling time, these values ​​need to be increased.

To apply these materials, it is necessary to lay a high-quality and heat-resistant vapor barrier under them on the ceiling of the bath. Because of the heat, bitumen vapor barriers and synthetic membranes are not suitable.

For the vapor barrier of the heated zone in the bath, it is necessary to use metal foil, which is placed with an overlap of 10 centimeters and fastened with foil tape, around the edges of the foil is wrapped over the insulation by 20 cm, or lowered onto the walls by at least 30 cm.

On top of the ecowool, it is advisable to cover it with a vapor diffusion membrane, so that the fibers do not spread into the environment, and the wind pressure (air movement) does not act on the insulation.

Expanded clay must also be covered with a membrane (it is possible with a vapor-transparent layer of paper, cardboard), but to prevent the occurrence of convection air movements from the edges to the center in its layer.

Ceiling insulation procedure

Thus, the ceiling in the bath is insulated as follows:

• a continuous vapor barrier is laid;
• a layer of insulation is laid between the crate;
• a vapor-transparent windscreen is laid (not needed for felt).

In the case of using ecowool, a flooring is made on top of the crate for movement, but so that there is a gap of 3 cm above the membrane for ventilation, which should open to the outside of the room.

Features of floors

The floors in the bath can only be insulated with a material that does not emit harmful substances when heated. In fact, these are the same materials that were used to insulate the ceiling.

Ventilation of the insulation should be carried out under the floor with a jet of air (through the vents in the foundation, for example). Accordingly, the insulation is fenced with boards from below. It is better not to use expanded clay for floor insulation because of the impossibility of airing a too thick layer poured onto the ground, and the possibility of its moistening.

From the side of the floor covering, a continuous hydro-vapor barrier is made using foil. Usually a waterproof floor covering can also act as a barrier.

How to equip the floors in the bath

For insulation of floors in a bath on wooden logs, counter-bars are stuffed on their sidewalls, on which the flooring of the boards is laid. Insulation is laid on them.

At the bottom, it is better to protect the heat insulator from rodents with a metal mesh, because the boards can be damaged.

The insulation is ventilated along its lower surface, through the gaps between the underlying boards, with air passing through
underground.

Stable ventilation of the insulation through several air vents in the foundation is a prerequisite for thermal insulation of the floors in the bath. The soaked insulation will lose its thermal insulation qualities.

How to make walls

The design of the bath can be very diverse - the options for using materials and constructive solutions infinite variety.

Therefore, only the basic principles and examples of warming the enclosing surfaces for a bath are considered here.

The walls of the bath are best fenced from the outside using mineral wool in mats that are placed between the ribs of the vertical battens.

Reliable temperature-resistant vapor barrier of mineral wool on the walls from the interior must be provided.

The usual thickness of insulation on the walls of the bath is 15 centimeters. The lathing is horizontal, corresponding to the height. A vertical crate of 4 cm thick beams is arranged on top to ensure reliable ventilation over the insulation - the air stream is always from bottom to top. A decorative and protective fence is attached to the crate; siding is more often used. In general, this is a common technology for insulating walls with wadded materials, in more detail - the execution of a ventilated facade with mineral wool

If the walls of the bath are made of dense, heavy materials, then the technology can also be used wet facade, but using only mineral wool boards, and special materials in the outer-finishing layer with increased vapor permeability.

If the walls of the bath are made of timber with a thickness of less than 7 centimeters, or there is no continuity of the material in the walls, i.e. there is no significant obstacle to the movement of steam, then, by analogy with the ceiling, complete vapor barrier of the insulation with foil is required. Otherwise, the humidity inside it will be very high and it will not be possible to dry the insulation by airing - the condensation of water at the dew point will exceed evaporation.

Windows and doors

It is advisable to use only double wooden windows and doors in the warm (hot) area of ​​the bath. Increased heat leakage through such barriers is possible. But environmental friendliness comes first.

Doors can be covered with a layer of felt under the dermontin from the outside. Seams around the perimeter of doors and windows can be filled with foam, but only if it is completely vapor barrier from the interior space.

As you can see, the insulation of a bath is somewhat different from the usual thermal insulation of a house, but there is nothing particularly complicated in it. Such works are often done with their own hands.

There is a lot of debate about the safety of using foam for warming a bath. Where this material can be used effectively, you can find out from our recommendations. And step-by-step instructions will help you understand technological processes and do them yourself.

Features of bath insulation with foam

In addition to high heat-insulating characteristics, among the main advantages of this insulation are:

• Durability... Under constant exposure aggressive environment the material lasts about 20 years. At normal temperature and humidity, the service life is almost 50 years.
• Moisture resistance... Polyfoam practically does not absorb moisture.
• Structure stability... The insulation can withstand temperature drops from -60 to +95 degrees, without collapsing and without emitting toxic substances.
• Biological neutrality... In addition to the field of thermal insulation, it is even used in the food industry and the production of children's toys.
• Relative cheapness... This material has a low price compared to other synthetic heat insulators.
• Light weight... Due to this, it is widely used to insulate the ceiling of a bath.

In addition, the foam does not require additional processing, is easy to cut, quickly installed, and does not rot.

However, with so many advantages, this material has a significant drawback - it burns, releasing toxic substances. Many manufacturers add special non-combustible polymers to it and claim that such foam melts and does not support the combustion process. Judging by technical specifications of such foam, the melting point of the insulation is about 95 degrees, and spontaneous combustion is more than 490 degrees.

If we talk about the level of heat conservation of foam in bath rooms, then a standard 6-cm layer of insulation can replace 10 cm of mineral wool, 20 cm of wood, 0.5 meters of foam concrete, 0.8 meters brickwork, 2 meters of concrete. Due to these characteristics, the material is very popular for external thermal insulation of a bath.

It is necessary to buy polystyrene from well-known and trusted manufacturers. Cheap and uncertified material may contain toxic substances.

Technology of thermal insulation of a bath with polystyrene foam

If you decide to use this material for thermal insulation, then you need to take care of high-quality ventilation of the room in advance. Polyfoam absolutely does not allow steam and air to pass through. Also note that it is strictly forbidden for them to insulate the steam room from the inside due to exposure to high temperatures. It is often used for isolation. brick baths, since the tree itself has high thermal insulation characteristics and at the same time "breathes".

Instructions for insulating the basement of a bath with foam

Polyfoam is the optimal material for thermal insulation strip foundation brick bath on clay soils... We carry out work in the following sequence:

1. We remove a layer of soil around the base to the depth of freezing.
2. We prepare a mixture of molten bitumen and gasoline in equal parts.
3. We clean the walls and open them with the prepared solution. You can also use a primer.
4. After drying, apply liquid rubber to the surface with a brush or melt roll bitumen with a torch. This is necessary for waterproofing.
5. We fix the foam plates from the bottom up, fixing them with bitumen-polymer mastic.
6. The joints between the elements are also additionally lubricated with an adhesive.
7. After full foam coating, we apply a second waterproofing layer.
8. We make a protective wall from bricks, boards or geotextiles. It will protect the insulation from the severity of the soil.
9. We install the blind area.

Please note that polyurethane or other glue that does not include toluene, acetone and gasoline can be used to mount the foam plates.

Rules for insulating the floor in a bath with polystyrene foam

This material is not used for thermal insulation between the logs in the bath due to high temperatures. They can only be safely insulated with a dirt floor under a cement screed.

In the process, we adhere to the following instructions:

• We level and compact the soil.
• Fill in fine gravel with a layer of about 10 cm and tamp it carefully.
• On top we make a mound of sand of the same thickness and compact the layer.
• We lay a waterproofing film. You can even use polyethylene for this.
• We install foam plates with a thickness of about 20 cm, fastening them with polyurethane glue without solvents or bitumen-polymer mastic.
• We re-lay a double layer of waterproofing.
• Pour concrete with an admixture of foam crumbs or expanded clay with a layer of 5 cm.
• After complete drying, we lay a mesh of metal reinforcement.
• Fill in a second 5 cm layer of concrete with a slope towards the drain and wait for it to dry.
• We lay the floorboards.

Such a flooring will conserve heat as efficiently as possible and will not succumb to the aggressive effects of moisture.

The specifics of the insulation of the walls of the bath with polystyrene foam

It is strictly forbidden to insulate the walls inside the steam room with this material for several reasons: the insulation does not withstand high temperatures, due to air tightness, the dew point shifts, which leads to the formation of condensation in the room. However, polystyrene is suitable for external insulation of walls of brick structures.

Work is carried out in the following order:

1. We attach the corner brackets to the wall.
2. Insert 6-8 cm thick foam plates between the corners.
3. We glue the sheets together with a special adhesive solution.
4. We cover thoroughly on top with waterproofing mastic. Also for this you can use plate and roll materials.
5. We mount special guides at the corners.
6. We fasten the galvanized crate to the corners.
7. We install the cladding.

Since this material is easily damaged by mechanical stress, the outside insulation of the bath with foam plastic must be accompanied by high-quality waterproofing and installation of a protective cover.

The material is also used for thermal insulation of internal partitions in the bath. However, they must not insulate the walls bordering the steam room or washing compartment.

Features of ceiling insulation in a bath with polystyrene foam

It is known that the most high rates temperature in the bath - under the ceiling. Therefore, it is forbidden to use this material for its thermal insulation. The only possible insulation option is to lay the foam sheets as a second layer of the insulating “pie”. For example, on top of a rammed mound of clay or expanded clay. However, even in this case, a lot of attention must be paid to vapor protection and ventilation. For these reasons, it is better to replace the foam with a safer heat insulator.

How to insulate a bath with foam - watch the video:

Correct use of foam for bath insulation will allow you to minimize energy losses up to 70%. Acting according to the instructions given, you can independently perform thermal insulation of the foundation, floor and walls in a brick bath as efficiently as possible.