Why is it necessary and how to install a sewer pipe in a private house - theory and practice. Sewerage scheme in a private house: do it yourself or is it worth hiring specialists? Sewer pipeline installation

13.06.2019

During design and installation internal sewerage for a private house, no one is immune from errors that can lead to unpredictable consequences, from the appearance of an unpleasant smell to the complete inoperability of the system. Consider in this article the concept of internal sewage in a private house: design and installation rules + analysis of common mistakes that occur in the process of all this.

General characteristics of a modern internal sewerage system

Today, the construction of private suburban housing is experiencing a real boom. Therefore, there was a need to create a convenient and modern system sewerage that I could install a common person who does not have a construction background. Such a system should have good performance, as the number of plumbing fixtures producing domestic waste has increased significantly. After all, with the advent of automatic washing machines, dishwashers, hot tubs and showers, the water consumption of a typical household has increased to 200 liters per person per day.

The increase in the number of plumbing fixtures leads to a significant complication of the pipeline networks themselves. Fortunately, today PVC pipes are used for sewerage installation, which are supplied with auxiliary fittings, with the help of which the installation of the pipeline becomes no more difficult than making crafts from a children's designer. All these parts are supplied with o-rings, which can be easily replaced if necessary.

Internal sewerage is a collection of plastic pipes and fittings for their connection, serving to drain wastewater from plumbing devices. The devices themselves are equipped with siphons necessary to prevent the penetration of odor into the premises. Pipe laying is subject to strict rules, non-compliance with which is fraught with disruption of the entire system.

Pipe laying rules for the construction of internal sewerage

As the central outlet channel in the entire sewerage system of the house is a riser. It may be one for the whole house. If the house is too large or the bathrooms are located at a considerable distance from each other, then two or more risers are made. They are vertically installed pipes that start in the basement and end on the roof. The lower part of the riser is connected to an inclined pipe of the same or larger diameter, which exits to the outside into a collection tank for wastewater or a wastewater treatment plant. The upper part of the riser rises above the roof by at least 0.5 m. It is open or equipped with a check valve. For what it is necessary - we will consider further. All supplies leading from plumbing fixtures are connected to risers.

Hydrodynamics of liquids in pipes

A pipe is a cylinder inside which water moves. When the pipe is completely filled with water, a piston effect occurs. This means that at the top of the water plug, the pressure drops sharply, while at the bottom, on the contrary, it rises. In a situation where there is an explosive drain from the toilet bowl, the resulting vacuum is able to suck all the water out of the siphons. This is fraught with the appearance of smell in the rooms. On the contrary, in the direction of the movement of the liquid, excess pressure arises, which is capable of pushing sewage out of the devices below the toilet bowl.

Ignoring the laws of hydrodynamics leads to two common mistakes in the design and installation of sewers. The first mistake is the failure of the ventilation device. The background pipe running from the riser to the roof not only diverts bad smell, but also serves as a pressure compensator in the system. After all, if it is present, the reduced pressure above the water piston will not suck water out of the siphons, but will ensure the flow of air into the system from the atmosphere, which again equalizes the pressure.

The second common mistake is that all plumbing fixtures are connected through supply pipes to the riser below the toilet. This is unacceptable, as it will certainly cause sewage to be poured into the sink or shower during flushing. Similar problems arise when the supply pipes are longer than allowed for them. In order to avoid such troubles, it is necessary to formulate some important rules for installation of internal sewerage.

Rules for the device of intra-house sewerage, the violation of which is unacceptable

Attention! Violation of the following rules may lead to a serious disruption of the internal sewer system or an emergency.

The connection of the toilet bowl to the riser must be carried out separately from other plumbing devices.
All other elements of plumbing are included in the system above the point of attachment of the toilet. Several devices can be located on one supply pipe, if their performance allows.
Any supply pipe must be no smaller in diameter than the one having largest diameter connection from the device.
The outlet from the toilet bowl has a diameter of 100 mm, therefore, the riser should not be thinner than it.
The toilet bowl is installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from the riser, and the rest of the devices are not further than 3 m.
If the house has a supply pipe longer than 3 m, then it should not be thinner than 70 mm. An eyeliner that is longer than 5 m is already made from a 100 mm pipe.

If for some reason it is not possible to increase the diameter of the supply pipes, then there is a way to get around this rule. To do this, it is necessary to bring the end of such a pipe to the roof and provide it with a vacuum valve or loop it on the riser above all other devices.

Quantitative characteristics of the parameters of laying sewer pipes

exist important nuances, observance of which will ensure the operability of the sewer in the optimal mode:

The slope of all horizontal pipes depends on the diameter of their section. The regulations say that a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm should be lowered by 3 cm each running meter length, having a diameter of 100 to 110 mm per 2 cm per meter. Pipes with a diameter of more than 160 mm can be tilted no more than 0.8 cm per linear meter.
An indicator such as a height difference for a toilet should be 1 m, and for other devices 3 m. Exceeding these parameters should be accompanied by the organization of ventilation at the ends of the corresponding supply lines.

Another common mistake is the wrong design of the corners. If you make 90-degree angles, then as a result of the rebound, a blockage of waste will form in this place, and the pipe will quickly clog. For this reason, it is necessary to create a smooth flow of water at the corners. To do this, use shaped parts having an angle of inclination of 135 degrees.

The fourth mistake is the output of the fan pipe not to the roof, but to the general house ventilation. Such a device will create an unforgettable “aroma” throughout the house, which can only be eliminated by redoing the entire system.

In order to not hear the sounds of water moving through the pipes, it is necessary to arrange sound insulation. For this, the pipes are wrapped mineral wool and placed in boxes of plasterboard sheets. For timely and convenient maintenance work, pipes are equipped with inspection hatches every 15 m. The same applies to all turns.

Fifth mistake. In the pipe connecting the internal sewerage and the septic tank is not installed check valve. In this case, when the outdoor disposal units overflow, the water may rise up the pipes and flood the basement.

Siphon connection errors

The connection of any plumbing fixture to the sewer is carried out through siphons that look like the letter U. This curved shape allows water to constantly be in it. It forms a hydro-barrier and prevents the smell from penetrating into the room. However, this system stops working when some errors are made. The main mistake is the lack of ventilation. In this case, the vacuum simply sucks the water out of the siphon, allowing odors to roam freely around the house. Another reason for the appearance of an unpleasant odor is the banal evaporation of water from the siphon. This occurs when the device is used infrequently. You just need to plug a rarely used device with a rag.

What calculations are made when planning internal sewage

Work on the design of internal sewage must be carried out strictly in accordance with the above rules. In addition, to comply with them, certain calculations are required:

On the general scheme indicate the places where this or that device will be located. Its distance from the riser, the diameter of the supply pipe, the mounting option and connection to the sewer are thought out in advance. At the same time, the required amount of materials is calculated.
Determined with the type of the sewer system itself. They are forceful and spontaneous. Usually, for simplicity, a system is used in which water flows under the influence of the gravity of the Earth. The main thing here is to calculate the slope of the pipes according to the rules outlined above.
According to technical specifications each sanitary appliance, calculate its one-time flow. The thickness of the inlet pipe depends on this indicator. In most cases, for all devices, except for the toilet, a 50 mm pipe is suitable
Calculate the most optimal location for stand installation. Most often these are toilets. If there are two of them in the house, in different vertical planes, then it is better to make two risers.
It is necessary to calculate the sewerage scheme in such a way as to minimize the number of available rotation angles. This will greatly reduce the risk of blockages.

The above calculations, performed correctly, will make the sewerage system the most efficient and efficient even when overloads occur.

What is needed for the construction of an internal sewerage system

As mentioned above, the main thing in the sewerage device inside the house is to draw up its detailed drawing, indicating all the devices and the dimensions of the elements. For installation, sewer pipes made of polyvinyl chloride are used. The device of their ends is such that two pipes can be connected by placing the end of one in the socket of the other. For risers, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are used, and for other devices, 50 mm. A corrugated pipe is used to connect to an external sewage system, due to its better resistance to soil movements.

Of the tools usually used: a saw for cutting plastic pipes, a sharp knife and rubber mounting seals. Pipes are cut with a saw, cuts are leveled with a knife and chamfers are made. Rubber seals are inserted into the sockets. Various fittings are used to connect pipes to the system:

Knees or bends that are needed to decorate corners. They are produced with a bend of 45 and 90 degrees. Their ends are also equipped with sockets with seals to create tight connections.
If it is necessary to connect cut pipes of the same diameter, transitional bends are used.
Tees various kinds are fittings for organizing pipe branches.
Transition couplings are needed in order to create transitions between pipes of different thicknesses.

A common mistake when installing plastic sewer pipes is ignoring their heating. In order for the pipes to fit easier and more tightly into each other and into the connecting fittings, the sockets must be heated in hot water.

The sequence of work during the installation of internal sewerage

Installation of the sewer system inside the house is carried out in the following order:

First, risers are installed, bringing their ends to the roof and to the basement. They should pass in the immediate vicinity of the toilets. In the basement, they are connected to an inclined pipe that goes out into the septic tank, and the upper ends are left open or provided with check valves.

Secondly, they bring carts from toilet bowls to the riser. They must be separate.

Thirdly, they are connected to the risers from other devices above the entrances of the toilet bowls.

Fourthly, siphons are installed on all devices.

Fifthly, they connect the siphons with eyeliners.

In conclusion, let's say that a properly designed and assembled sewerage system will work all it needs for a long time without serious problems.

Live outside the city with the same comfort as in a city apartment? Today it is already difficult to surprise anyone. Almost everyone has heard that for comfort, you just need to install an autonomous sewage system on the site.

But what it is, how it works, how to choose it correctly and what to do with it after installation - almost no one knows. Today we will tell you all about it, in this article:

What you need to know about the characteristics of an autonomous sewer?

So, what should be considered when choosing autonomous sewerage to a suburban area?

The main parameter of autonomous sewage - maximum stock volume which she can process in 24 hours.
Salvo drop.
No less important is insertion depth, indicating at what depth pipes for sewerage can be laid.
Service period when it is necessary to remove accumulated sludge from the equipment.
Wastewater treatment quality- usually this figure is 98%.
Housing material.
Ease of installation.

Among the disadvantages of systems can be identified high cost. But if you take into account the costs of calling a sewage truck when arranging an ordinary cesspool, they will quickly pay off.

4 sewer options

You can equip the sewer on the site in different ways:

Cesspool - often used in summer cottages, but does not meet the requirements of environmental conservation.
Installation of local treatment facilities is a more expensive option than the first, but is only suitable for houses with year-round use.
Storage tanks are a simple method, but not for everyone. Effluent accumulates in tanks, pumped out cesspool machine. Eco-friendly but not cheap.
Septic tank - wastewater is purified up to 98% and enters the drainage well. Maintenance - pumping out sludge once every 2-3 years, which can be used as fertilizer.

3 ways to clean wastewater, which one to choose?

The most common first two types of sewers are:

with mechanical cleaning;
with biological treatment;
with combined cleaning.

Septic tank with mechanical wastewater treatment

Has its pros and cons. Let's highlight some of them based on user reviews. Works by itself, unlike the following type.

Pros/Cons

work without power consumption,
equipment does not require constant maintenance,
year-round work
if necessary, you can take a break in the work of the septic tank.

not a very pleasant smell
it is necessary to lay sewer pipes, a large area of \u200b\u200bthe site is involved,
service with special equipment,
suitable geological conditions are required.

Sewer installation:

We determine the volume of the device - at least 200 liters of waste per person per day.
We choose the place where the future sewerage will be installed.
We dig a hole under the tank or concrete rings.
We supply pipes and mount a platform for the withdrawal of purified water.

Biological treatment (septic tank or VOC)

The essence of autonomous sewage (link treatment plants Topas, as in the photo below) its autonomous operation without constant maintenance. The septic is biological treatment without access to oxygen, but electricity is not needed. VOC is also biological purification by bacteria, but with the use of oxygen (aerobic). Local treatment plants are a subspecies of an autonomous sewage system, which is a monoblock. Effluent in the device is cleaned biologically due to the action of microorganisms on them.

The principle of operation of the device is based on forced aeration, due to which the effluents are cleaned so well. But, despite all its advantages, this device also has a drawback - it is volatile, that is, it works exclusively when voltage is applied. However, it works silently and without odors.

Installation of an autonomous station occurs as follows:

Preparation of the pit in accordance with the dimensions of the installation.
Digging a trench for the pipeline, insulation of outlet pipes.
Installation of the station and connection of pipes to it.
Electricity supply and connection.

As a result of all the above, it should be noted that an autonomous sewer system is not at all simple, therefore it must be built according to a specially prepared project.

What should be taken into account?

When choosing an autonomous sewage system, it is necessary to take into account many factors:

land relief,
the climate of your region,
groundwater level,
how often and how many people live in the house,
provision of access for sewage equipment.

For our convenience, the elements of the sewage system (we are considering plastic sewer elements) have different lengths and different diameters, as well as different wall thicknesses depending on the use from outside or inside the room. The length mainly refers to sewer pipes, and varies depending on the manufacturer. But for our business, we will mainly need pipes with a length of 0.15m to 4m.

The diameter of the sewer elements also has different sizes depending on our needs. But for us, the sizes of sewage elements with a diameter of 50mm and 110mm will be relevant, since elements with large diameters are relevant for large structures. When buying sewer elements, pay attention to the presence of rubber sealing rings in the sockets, which should be included with each of the elements.

Sewer pipe (Fig. 1), in my opinion is the backbone of the sewage system. As already mentioned, plastic pipes have different lengths, different diameters and different wall thicknesses. The advantage of sewer pipes made of plastic is their light weight which facilitates the installation of the system. The inner walls of the pipe are smooth, which prevents them from clogging.

For use outside the building, you need to choose pipes with a wall thickness of 3 mm or more, since these pipes will be used in the ground and they need the necessary strength, and for indoor use, pipes with a wall thickness of 2 mm or more are suitable. When buying pipes, pay attention to their quality, of course, if this is important to you. Their surface should be smooth without obvious bulges and especially dimples, as they will turn into holes in the future. Also, the pipes you need should not bend when squeezing them with your fingers.

Take away sewer pipes (Fig. 2), are used to change the direction of sewer pipes. Just like pipes, bends have different diameters, and are used according to the diameter of the pipes used. On the one hand, the outlet has a socket, for connection with inside which has a rubber sealing ring, and on the other hand a conventional pipe with chamfered for connection. The bends also have different bending angles, which is very convenient for us to achieve the desired direction of the pipes during installation.

Tee for sewer pipes (Fig. 3), designed for branching sewer pipes or adding drain points. As well as the rest of the elements, it has different diameters, and different angles of the sockets (in this case there are several of them), as well as different diameters of the sockets on one tee, which will allow us to connect pipes of different diameters if necessary. The figure shows only some of the tees, as there are many different among which you can choose the one that suits you.

Revision of sewer pipes (Fig. 4), is designed for access inside (mainly for clearing blockages), sewers, and is installed at all turns of the sewer system, except when there is access to the turn, that is, there is a washbasin or sink nearby, which will allow cleaning the turn of the system in case of clogging his.

Reducer (adapter), sewer pipes (Fig. 4), designed to connect sewer pipes of different diameters.

Fixing sewer pipes (Fig. 4), designed for fastening sewer pipes in the right places.

Cap for the socket (Fig. 4,) needed to tightly close an unused bell.

Well, it seems that all the main elements of the sewerage system that you will need for installation. If we missed something, then in the installation description we will definitely consider it.

If desired, even private house in countryside can be arranged. The first thing a country dweller faces is the lack of a warm toilet in the house. Without sewerage, a person is deprived of many amenities. It's not a luxury, it's a necessity. Laying sewerage in a private house is a complex process that requires taking into account every little thing. How to do it?

External and internal

Work related to the arrangement of sewerage in a private house begins with the design of the internal and In the first case, the installation of a fan pipe, a riser, as well as piping to all rooms where it is required is required: kitchen, toilet, bathroom and so on. Concerning external system, then this is everything that is located outside the house. Its arrangement requires piping to a septic tank. You can also connect the sewer to a deep cleaning station.

The task is greatly facilitated if it is possible to discharge wastewater into a centralized system. If the house is located on an isolated site, then you should create a system with homemade septic tank. It can be with or cumulative. The cesspool is not suitable in this case.

Laying scheme in a private house

Before starting work, you should draw up a plan for laying pipes inside a private house. The process is greatly simplified if all wet rooms are located in close proximity. The scheme is drawn up strictly individually. In the process, all the features of the house and the location of the premises should be taken into account. Ready option can look like anything.

When designing sewerage inside the house, it is necessary to accurately calculate the location of the collector pipe. Only after that it is possible to determine where the rest of the system will be laid.

How to draw the right diagram

The sewerage scheme in a private house is an important stage. The quality of the system and its reliability depend on how well the plan is drawn up. Stages of drawing up a diagram:

On a piece of paper, preferably in a box, you need to recreate the plan of the house. When drawing up a plan, it is worth considering the scale.
Then it is worth deciding on the location of the riser or the collector pipe.
At all levels of the building, the location of plumbing should be noted. At this stage, you should learn about how to connect it.
From plumbing, it is necessary to lay pipes on paper to the riser. In this case, all connecting elements, tees, branches and corners should be taken into account.
You need to measure the length of each element internal system and summarize the data. The result is the required number of pipes. In this case, the diameter of the material must be taken into account.

The final stage is the drawing up of a diagram of the external system: the release of pipes, their laying to the septic tank. In this case, it is necessary to take into account all the requirements specified in SanPiN 2.1.4.1110-02, as well as SNiP 2.04.03-85.

What to consider when arranging an internal system

The laying of internal sewerage in a private house begins after drawing up an approximate scheme. At this stage, there are several things to consider:

To drain wastewater from the toilet, pipes with a diameter of 10-11 cm are required. Their total length must be at least 100 centimeters.
For gray drains that enter the common riser from the kitchen and bathroom, pipes made of PP or PVC are required. The diameter of the material should be 5 centimeters.
To arrange turns in the system, it is necessary to use several plastic elbows made at an angle of 45 °. This reduces the risk of blockages in the process of using the sewer.
It is best to use polypropylene for arranging sewage inside the house, or such material is more durable, reliable and relatively inexpensive. When using such pipes, laying sewers in a private house is simplified.

Choosing pipes

Laying sewerage in a private house requires careful preparation. After drawing up the scheme and carrying out the necessary calculations, the purchase of materials is required. For wiring inside the house, gray pipes are used. For the arrangement of the external system, pipes of an orange tint are required. You can explain the difference in color based on logic. Orange hues are best seen in the ground. In addition, pipes have differences in properties. First of all, it concerns the material. Pipes located underground must withstand more serious loads. The material for their manufacture should be more rigid.

In order for the laying of sewerage in a private house to be successful with your own hands, you can use two-layer corrugated pipes. But, as practice shows, their use is often inappropriate. After all, the depth of sewerage in a private house is from 2 to 3 meters. Much cheaper and no less effective is the use of orange pipes. Most often, a material with a diameter of 11 centimeters is used to equip an external system. This is quite enough for normal wastewater disposal.

How to lay pipes? It's simple!

Laying a sewer in a private house with your own hands requires certain skills and patience. The most difficult stage is the placement of pipes and their fastening. It is almost impossible to do this alone. Therefore, you will need an assistant to work. This will not only speed up the process, but also improve the quality.

The easiest option for laying sewers is to use pvc pipes or PP. A fairly wide range of such products is produced. Material can be purchased if necessary. desired diameter, tees, elbows and revisions. It is worth noting that each part is equipped with a special rubberized insert - cuff. Thanks to this element, laying the sewerage of a private house takes a little time. Joints are connected easily and at the same time reliably. If desired, you can process the seams additionally. For this, a silicone-based plumbing sealant is suitable.

What to Consider

When laying pipes, it is necessary to take into account some nuances:

If the pipes run through walls or ceilings, then they must be placed in special sleeves that reduce the load on system fragments.
The slope of the elements of the sewer system depends on their diameter and is prescribed in SNiP 2.04.03-85. For example, for a material with a diameter of 5 centimeters, this indicator should be 3 cm / m, and with a diameter of 10 to 11 centimeters - 2 cm / m.

Arrangement of sewer outlet

If a problem has arisen and the internal system has a mismatch with the external one, then the laying of sewer pipes in a private house should begin with the release. This is the boundary zone between systems. At this point, the riser is connected to the pipe leading to the wastewater collection tank.

It is necessary to mount the outlet through the foundation wall. The depth of its laying should be below the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, in winter period Difficulties may arise in the operation of the sewer. If the outlet hole was not specified during the construction of the building, then it will have to be punched. Its diameter must correspond to the dimensions of the pipe in the sleeve. The latter should be longer than the hole. From each edge, the sleeve must cover the pipe by more than 15 centimeters. These are the basic requirements for the release of sewage.

Installation of the riser and further wiring

The size of the pipe from the riser to the toilet should be 1000 mm. This allows you to determine its location. It is better to mount the riser in the toilet itself. Installation can be hidden or open. It all depends on where the pipe will be installed. You can install the riser close to the wall. To do this, use suspension brackets and clamps. You can also mount the pipe in a niche, in a channel or in a box.

To connect the riser and other fragments of the system, you can use oblique tees. If the pipes are different in diameter, then adapters should be used to connect them. They allow you to refuse the use of sealant. In those places where there is an intersection of elements coming from a shower, sink or bath, it is necessary to install a collector pipe. Its diameter should be from 10 to 11 centimeters. Do not forget about water seals. These elements do not unpleasant odors enter the living space.

On each floor, a revision is installed in the riser - a kind of tee designed to clean the system in case of severe blockage.

What is a fan pipe

By observing the rules for laying sewers in a private house, you can easily create an external and internal system. In addition to installing a riser, a fan pipe is also required. This is its continuation, which is displayed on the roof of the house. This part is installed on the riser. A revision is mounted at the junction. After that, the fan pipe is brought to the attic at an angle. Do not connect it to the ventilation system of the building or to the chimney.

Types of septic tanks

pad outdoor sewerage in a private house - this is no less important step than installing an internal system. With improper arrangement, problems can arise not only with comfort, but also with environmentalists. One mistake can turn the sewer into a big smelly problem that will take a lot of time and money to fix.

You should start with a septic device. The most commonly used facilities are settling type. This is a container or a combination of them through which drains pass. Gradually they clear up. This occurs due to the deposition of heavy inclusions. After the drains pass additional purification in the filtration well or in the field. In this case, both mechanical and biological cleaning methods are used.

There is another, simpler type of septic tank - storage. In this case, a closed container of a sufficiently large volume is installed. All drains are collected in it. To empty such a septic tank, sewage pumping is required, which is carried out This method arrangement outdoor system easier to implement. Plus it's cheaper.

How to calculate the required volume

Calculating the dimensions is not so difficult. The volume is determined based on settling for 3 days. The average consumption per person per day is 200 liters. If desired, this indicator can be calculated individually. If two people live in the house on a permanent basis, then the volume of the tank for the septic tank should be:

2 x 200 x 3 = 1200 liters or 1.2 cubic meters.

Stages of installation of an outdoor system

Sewerage in a private house does not end after complete installation internal system. After all, the arrangement of the outer part is required. Stages of arranging an external system:

First you need to prepare the materials: a finished container of the required volume made of PP or reinforced concrete rings. If desired, you can lay out of brick or pour a monolith.
The next step is to determine the appropriate wastewater treatment method.
After earthworks are carried out: a pit is dug under the tank and trenches for laying pipes.
All structural elements must be connected. At the same time, do not forget about the comfortable maintenance of the septic tank.
Pipes should be mounted at a certain slope. This indicator should be 2 cm / m. Joints must be sealed.
The septic tank should be equipped with a ventilation system.
After carrying out work on thermal and waterproofing of individual fragments of the system, it is possible to fill the structure with soil.

When placing a septic tank, it is worth considering the location of buildings on personal plot. Do not place a waste container near a recreation area or playground.

In conclusion

Now you know how the sewerage of a private house is carried out. If you follow all the rules, you will receive reliable system. Before starting the operation of the sewer, it is necessary to carry out its run. To do this, the system must be flushed clean water. This will identify any shortcomings and correct them. Only then can the operation of the sewer system be started.

In fact, the process of editing individual fragments is not difficult. The main thing is not to make mistakes when drawing up a sewerage scheme, as well as to make the correct slope of the pipes. Otherwise, the system will not function normally.

Hardly modern man can imagine its existence without comfort and the usual benefits of existence, therefore, when arranging a frequency house or summer cottage, it is first of all necessary to properly equip the water supply system, and of course the sewer system in compliance with all sanitary and hygienic standards.

The arrangement of the sewerage system allows not only to use the bathroom, but also to connect sinks, a dishwasher or a washing machine and bring life in a suburban area closer to living in a city apartment.

The installation of a sewer system is a laborious process and requires a serious approach, in addition, it is best to design a sewer on initial stage construction of private buildings.

Before starting work, it is necessary to carry out water supply and only then carry out the installation of the sewerage system, adhering to a strict sequence.

The main types of sewer systems

The modern sewer system is classified into three main types:

Internal, where all communications are located inside the house.
Outdoor, in which communications are located outside the house, which include cesspools, cleaning stations, cesspools, settling tanks, septic tank.
The most important step is to carry out the sewer system into the house, since all the main elements and wiring to the main highways will be located inside the building. At this stage, proper arrangement is very important, which will ensure the performance and smooth functioning of the entire system.

Materials that will be needed when arranging the sewer system

The basis of any type of sewer system is a common riser, into which wastewater flows. Everything that passes through the riser enters the laid external sewer system and merges into the sump, which is located on the site.

Necessary materials:

Pipes, the number of which must be calculated in advance.
Branches for the sewer system, the size of which must correspond to the diameter of the pipes.
Tees of the desired style, which are necessary for branching the system.
Reducers and adapters for connecting pipes of various diameters.
Audits to control the functioning of the sewer system and access to clean it in case of blockage.
Plugs for bells, which cover unused holes.
Special fasteners for fixing sewer pipes.
Sealant - plumbing silicone in pipes and a gun that is needed to apply it.

Important! For the riser, you will need a pipe of a sufficiently large diameter (from 100 mm), since this pipe diameter is used to drain waste from the toilet. Install a riser in the very corner of the bathroom or in a pre-equipped shaft.

In addition, it is important to prepare all the tools and materials necessary for the work so that everything is at hand during the work.

The drain pipe must be well fixed. It is also necessary to align future places, joints, which will include outlet pipes from sinks, toilet bowls, bathtubs.

To ensure better sealing of pipe joints and avoid leakage, the joints are lubricated with grease or silicone.

Since the arrangement of the sewer system is most often used plastic pipes, it is necessary to ensure their reliable fixation. how more reliable fastening, the lower the probability of deformation of sewer pipes, since the mass of filled pipes is much greater than empty ones.

Self-assembly of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself sewerage is quite simple, even without certain skills and experience. The main thing is to keep the sequence of work, get quality materials and prepare the right tool for the job.

Important! If you are still unsure of your abilities, you can always invite professional craftsmen who will carry out all the sewer installation work quickly and efficiently. However, in the process of their work, you can monitor the progress of the work, gaining experience and at the same time controlling the quality.

It is very important that the drain pipes coming from the toilet or bathtub exit at an angle to prevent clogging and ensure a normal level of system performance. The angle of inclination per meter should be between 2 and 4 degrees.

You should not purchase corrugated pipes for arranging the sewerage system - give preference better pipes with an internal nasty surface. It is recommended to fix the pipes immediately after connection and docking. To do this, it is necessary to build a box or gutter of drywall or other waterproof material. This design will allow you to achieve reliable fixation and get a rigid system that will be resistant to mechanical damage and water displacement.

Important! When installing the transition from a vertical to a horizontal drain, it is advisable to install a connecting element with an angle of 90 degrees in this place. This will help to significantly reduce the load on the nodes and pipes from pressure when draining water.

To install the transition node, you need to dig a deep hole of the appropriate diameter. This is also convenient because, if necessary, you can install an inspection sleeve, which will allow you to clean the system in case of clogging.

At the next stage, the drain line is taken out of the house. in the foundation, make a hole of the required size and cut out a corner at an angle of 15 degrees and then set a constant level of inclination drain pipe up to and including entry into drain hole no more than 2-3 degrees.

Do not make a smaller slope or, on the contrary, tilt the pipe too much. A small slope will slow down the flow of drains, and with a strong slope, the sewage will pass too quickly through the sewer pipes, leaving solid fragments on the walls, which will soon lead to clogging and disruption of the sewer system.

Important! If the location is too close, the foundation may be damaged over time, and too large a distance can cause stagnation in the system, especially if it has many joints and turns.

At the final stage, it is necessary to dig a trench for laying the pipe, the depth of which depends on the climatic and weather conditions in your area. If winters are harsh and cold, the trench must be deep enough to prevent freezing and damage to the integrity of the pipes. For greater safety, you can insulate the pipes with insulation before the final backfilling of the soil.

It is equally important to install several small pipes along the entire length of the sewer pipes. manholes, which will allow an audit of the sewer system in case of congestion. Immediately before laying the sewer pipes, it is recommended to concrete the trench. The bottom of the trench should be as dewy as possible without elevation changes.