Concrete floor in the steam room with hands. We equip the concrete floor in the bath with our own hands

Upon completion of the assembly of the frame of the bath structure, you can do interior finishing work, among which a special place is occupied by procedures for arranging floors. In this article we will try to talk about how to make the floor in the bath with our own hands from wood and concrete, we will give step by step guide as well as photo and video instructions.

First of all, it should be noted that both wood or concrete, as well as ordinary ceramic tile(in some cases, floors can be made directly on the clay).

The main thing to focus on when carrying out work is to ensure the normal outflow of used water. We also note that when finishing floors in “hot” rooms, in no case is it allowed to use synthetic materials (linoleum, for example), which, when heated, can release toxic and harmful substances.

Particular attention in the production of such work should also be paid to the insulation of the flooring, which most directly affects the comfort of the procedures taken. In those cases when you decide to make a concrete floor, be sure to make sure that it is covered from above with wooden flooring or special cork slabs that provide comfortable conditions bathing.

Wood

From the foregoing, it follows that before you make the floor in the bath, you will definitely need to decide on the material used to make it.

Wooden floors are recommended to be made from coniferous wood (fir, pine, larch or spruce); and in this case you can use two options. The first of them involves the arrangement of a continuous, water-impervious coating, and in the second case, the floorboards are laid with a small gap, providing a free drain of washing waste.

Solid or "non-leaking" floors are made by embedding the lag directly into the clay or setting them on concrete (preferably with a slight indentation) followed by a dense covering with tongue and groove boards. But before that, a classic screed is made on the concrete surface, which has a slight slope towards the drain. At the same time, at a certain point, on the edge or in the middle of the room, a collection of drains is installed, connected to the sewer system of your home.

The preparation of the so-called leaking floor is usually carried out according to the following scheme:

1. First, well-leveled and compacted soil is covered with a layer of gravel with sand, which is subsequently poured with liquid concrete.
2. In its shape, the poured surface should resemble a funnel with gentle slopes and with a center at the place of collection of wastewater (with a protective grate installed in the drain).
3. Then they are mounted on brick columns wooden logs, serving as the basis for placing the flooring.
4. And at the end of the work, edged floorboards are laid on these logs with a gap of 5–6 mm.

When arranging such a floor, take care of the waterproofing of the columns supporting the logs by lining sections of roofing felts or roofing felt, folded in several layers, under them. In the absence of bricks, fragments of old concrete slabs. You should also pay attention to the fact that it will be possible to start preparing the floors in the steam room and washing room only after you have completed the installation of the water drainage system and prepared the foundation for the stove.

We must not lose sight of the need for antiseptic treatment of wood structural elements, and also do not forget about the ventilation of the spaces under the floor, which ensures their safety. In particular, the removal of wet fumes can be organized through the use of a furnace blower.

Concrete floor in washroom and steam room

Many experts consider the arrangement of the concrete floor in the bath to be an economically correct and profitable solution. The long service life of concrete speaks in favor of this method of arranging the floor. A quality screed can last more than 30 years. Among the advantages of this floor it is worth noting:

• Resistant to temperature extremes and high humidity.
• Doesn't rot.
• Concrete does not develop harmful microorganisms and fungi.

To care for the concrete floor, you do not need to buy expensive household chemicals. In addition, you have the opportunity to decorate the floor, for example, with tiles.

The bath uses a lot of water. This suggests the need for arranging a drain. Before concreting the floor, a drainage system should be designed and implemented. To do this, you need to determine the point that will most easily equip the sewer system. At this point, an intermediate tank should be placed, which can be made in the form of a small pit, having a size of 40 × 40 × 30 cm. The simplest method for processing the pit is concreting, with a layer of at least 5 cm.

Then, from this tank, drainage should be made into a manhole / septic tank. For these purposes, you can use fan pipe having a diameter of 200 mm.

The soil should be leveled and then rammed. Then fill the floor with coarse gravel 15 cm thick. Gravel can be replaced with a brick fight. The next layer of crushed stone is 10 cm thick.

After the crushed stone has been compacted, a layer of concrete 5 cm thick should be poured. It should be made with a slope towards the preliminary wastewater tank.

To significantly reduce heat loss in the bath, the concrete floor should be insulated. This is done after the first layer of concrete has cured. Expanded clay can be used as a heater. It needs to be covered with a layer of 5-8 cm.

This is not the only insulation that is suitable for arranging a concrete floor. Often, building felt or mineral wool is used for these purposes. But, it is worth considering the fact that when laying mineral wool as a heater, you will have to additionally waterproof it. Roofing material can be used as a waterproofing layer.

Between the floor and the wall should be filled with bitumen.

Another option for floor insulation is pouring cement mortar with perlite (a rock of volcanic origin). It has been used in this direction relatively recently. The advantages of this component are high water absorption and thermal insulation characteristics.

Perlite is a very light material and must therefore be handled indoors.

The batch is done in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is important to strictly follow the instructions that are indicated on the packaging for the product.

A second concrete layer should be poured onto the insulation or waterproofing (depending on the insulation material you installed). In this case, it is necessary to lay a reinforcing mesh (it can be wire or reinforced mesh) before pouring concrete. In order for the concrete to be strong as a result, it must be tamped, leveled with a rule, and the tightening concrete should be poured on top.

For pouring the screed, a sand-cement mortar or a self-leveling mixture is used. If tiles will be used to decorate the floor, then it is better to buy a cement mixture designed for this purpose.

The screed must be poured in one go, so you need to act quickly. Start pouring from the far corner, leveling the solution with a trowel. You need to tighten it with the rule in a circular motion, which would be directed towards the exit from the room. After the screed should harden, this process takes several days.

With the addition of plasticizers, the hardening process of concrete is accelerated. They, among other things, enhance the strength of concrete, securely connect the constituent components of the mortar together and prevent the possibility of cracks.

The screed fully hardens in 3 weeks. In the first week, it must be watered from time to time.

The surface quality is determined after the concrete has completely dried. If the screed has a uniform gray tint, then this indicates its uniformity. In addition, there will be no visible marks from a hammer blow on durable and high-quality concrete.

Ceramic tile is most often used as a concrete floor finish in a bath. The tile will also look spectacular. A significant disadvantage of tiles is that when wet, it becomes slippery, which increases the risk of injury. Therefore, on the practical side, it is better to lay metlakh tiles on the concrete floor.

You should not use baths in the premises (even in those in which there are not such high performance temperature, as in a steam room) linoleum and other synthetic coatings. The fact is that in the process of heating, substances are released from them that can lead to intoxication, that is, severe poisoning of the body.

Auxiliary premises

In rooms with a low level of humidity and relatively low temperature, it is allowed to use laminate and linoleum prohibited for steam rooms. In the dressing room, such a coating is covered over a special flooring, which makes it possible to dry the floors. When using this basis flooring it turns out double, consisting of a rough and finishing flooring.

When working with the floor, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

• the optimal height of the floor base above the ground is considered to be a level exceeding this mark by at least 30 cm;
• for the manufacture of natural wood flooring, edged or tongue-and-groove boards with a thickness of about 25–35 mm are selected;
• laying logs on brick columns in such structures is mandatory.

The procedure for arranging floor coverings in a bathhouse made in the old Russian style, in fact, is no different from the procedures described above (taking into account the fact that the floors in the steam room can even be earthen). Before preparing them, you will need to do the following operations:

1. Along the perimeter of the base, at a distance of about 50 cm from the foundation, soil is first selected (to a depth of about 45–50 cm).
2. The resulting site is filled up to the required level with a mixture of fine gravel and sand, and then carefully compacted.
3. The boards are laid directly on the prepared base, which is quite consistent with the floors made according to the old methods.

Video

This video will answer the most frequently asked questions about the floor in the bath:

Photo

Scheme

These schemes will help you in arranging the floor in the bath:

Wooden floors are rarely leveled with concrete. Many experienced builders believe that hoisting a heavy monolithic structure onto a wood floor makes no sense. Moreover, the concrete layer is not very “friendly” adjacent to the wooden base, not only during solidification, but also during operation. In this regard, it is more expedient to use dry leveling schemes. But in those cases when it is necessary, for example, to lay in a washing room tile, you have to look for a way out.

Let's make a reservation right away that a concrete screed on a wooden floor is a completely feasible task, but here, as in any other business, there are specific moments.

Plank floor - photo

Wood is a special material that has not only a number of technological advantages, but also one significant drawback. It is not static, so even after installation work“behaves” according to its own laws peculiar only to it. Changes in temperature and humidity cause the lumber to shrink, increase / decrease in volume, stretch or shrink. By the way, it is for this reason that after the construction of the log house, the final finishing is carried out after about 2 years.

But even after a two-year period of shrinkage wooden structures still moving, albeit not as intensely. For example, a wooden floor with underfloor heating moves every time the heating system is turned on.

Video - Concrete floors in a wooden house

Unlike wood, monolithic concrete base only changes a little geometric parameters when hydrated, and after complete solidification, it hardly moves at all.

And if this base were tightly connected to the unstable wooden surface, then the slightest movement of the latter would lead to the formation of cracks on the concrete surface.

One of the reasons for the appearance of cracks is non-compliance with the technology of pouring concrete on wooden base

But the leveling technology described here is intended to ensure that both elements cannot harm each other, and its (technology) distinguishing feature is that during pouring, the base does not contact the walls.

Scheme - an example of arranging a screed on a wooden floor

Design features of plank floors

It is hardly advisable to pour the screed over the floor, equipped with logs and floor slabs. Such floors often have a thickness of about 7-7.8 cm, and the only right decision in this case can only be the dismantling of all wooden elements, followed by pouring over the floor slab. Another thing is if the logs are high and located on brick pillars. Such pillars have a height of over 0.3-0.4 m, so it is impossible to replace them with a concrete screed. Schemes of such floors are presented in the images below.

1 - base; 2 - waterproofing from two layers of roofing material; 3 - lower harness; 4 - top harness; 5 - outer cladding with grooved boards; b - non-ferrous metal plate with holes; 7- outer wall from boards; 8 - plaster; 9 - plinth; 10 - plank floor; 11 - lag; 12 - a column of bricks; 13 - antiseptic wooden lining; 14 - underground
1 - compacted sand; 2 - preparation from concrete; 3 - waterproofing from roll materials; 4 - brick column; 5 - wooden antiseptic lining; c - sheathing from antiseptic boards; 7 - board intermediate flooring: 8 - thermal insulation; 9 - air gap; 10 - floor; 11 - bearing beam

It is these structures that are often filled with a screed.

Pouring technology

The essence of the fill concrete screed on a plank floor is to create a gap between a monolithic surface and unstable wooden elements. For this purpose, the leveling layer is cut off from the walls with a damper tape, and from the plank base - with polyethylene.

Thanks to this, a floating floor is created, without connections to any of the surfaces. As a result, all the lumber elements continue to move in one direction or another, and the screed, which simply lies on top, is not covered with cracks from the permanent change in the position of the boardwalk.

The technical parameters of the concrete screed, as well as the basic requirements, are in SNiP 2.03.13-88 and 3.04.01-87.

SNiP 2.03.13-88. Floors. Download file

SNiP 3.04.01-87. Insulating and finishing coatings. Download file

On the advisability of using polyethylene

Direct contact with polyethylene film is known to adversely affect wood, leading to the growth of fungus and mold.

That is why, instead of a film in wooden structures, roofing material, bitumen-based mastic, glassine, or roll waterproofing with bituminous impregnation are often used. But the cement screed does not stick to polyethylene film, because of which:

• both plates will be able to move freely along the isolating boundary;
• the screed will not draw moisture out of the wood, leading to cracks;
• the screed when moving will not pull the film, stretch and tear it.

Important information! Before starting work, care should be taken to minimize the negative effects of contact between lumber and polyethylene. To do this, all wooden elements must be treated with an antiseptic and an Aquastop primer mixture, which has water-repellent properties.

The filling procedure itself consists of several stages, let's get acquainted with them.

Prices for reinforced polyethylene film

reinforced polyethylene film

Stage one. Calculations

There is one standard calculation scheme: for every 15 kg / m² of dry mix, a thickness of 1 cm comes out. Even if the required amount of materials is known, you still need to buy them with a 10 percent margin.

Table. Dry cement mixtures- price

Name	Manufacturer	Package	Price
	"VOS Mixes"	Bag, 50 kg	95 rub.
	UMIX	Bag, 50 kg	100 rub.
	"Stone Flower"	Bag, 25 kg	75 rub.
	"Polymin"	Bag, 25 kg	118 rub.
	Kreisel	Bag, 25 kg	132 rub
	Manufacturer: "Ceresit"	Bag, 25 kg	160 rub.

Stage two. Foundation preparation

Having dealt with the technology and calculated the required amount of the mixture, you can proceed directly to work. Traditionally, you should start with the preparation of the base.

Step 1. First, the boardwalk is dismantled and a thorough revision of all elements is carried out. Logs are checked. If among them there are unsuitable for further operation, then they must be replaced.

Step 2 If the logs are installed in increments of more than 40 cm, then auxiliary bars are installed between them.

Step 3 Boards - if they are still usable - are nailed back. If slightly damaged floorboards are found, they should be turned over.

Nail heads are recessed by 2-3 mm, otherwise the plastic film laid on top may tear.

Step 4 Skirting boards are removed, thin boards are installed instead (the latter should cover the cracks near the walls). Do not forget that these boards are installed for a certain time, and after pouring the screeds will be dismantled. This will ensure ventilation of the wooden base, prevent it from rotting.

Important information! You also need to close all the cracks. If they are small, then you can fill them with sealant, but it is better to blow out large gaps with mounting foam.

Instead of sealant, you can use parquet putty made on the basis of wood dust, or a home-made putty mixture. To prepare the latter, you need to mix any sawdust with oil paint in a ratio of 4: 1.

Stage three. Padding

When the sealant or putty is completely dry, vacuum the substrate thoroughly to remove dust and debris. Sanding can be done if desired, although this is not required.

Next, a moisture-resistant primer is applied in two or three layers: it will prevent the appearance of air bubbles and the absorption of liquid from the surface by the surface. cement mortar. Also, the primer will serve as additional protection for the wood from mold and fungus.

Concrete floor primer prices

concrete floor primer

Stage four. markup

Using an ordinary or laser level, a zero level is marked along the perimeter of the walls. The latter can be at an arbitrary height, but on average it is 35-70 cm from the base surface. It is necessary to designate several points of the zero horizontal on each of the walls.

Equal distances are laid down from these points, while the thickness of the screed itself must be taken into account.

Important information! Standard Thickness concrete floating floor is about 5 cm. At the same time, each centimeter of such a floor will create a load on the plank base of 100-110 kg for each square meter. It is for this reason that it is desirable to strengthen the logs, although, if possible, it is generally better to install metal channels instead of them.

Stage five. Waterproofing

Further actions are related to the insulation of wooden structural elements, and the result should be a kind of pallet that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Step 1. A damper tape with a thickness of 10-20 mm and a width slightly exceeding the thickness of the screed is attached to the walls along the entire perimeter. This tape will provide not only damping of sound vibrations, but also the possibility of lengthening / expanding the floating plate. Tape is used for fastening.

Important information! At the end finishing floor, excess tape protruding on the surface will be cut off, and the gap formed will be closed with a plinth.

Important information! There should be no wrinkles or damage on the waterproofing layer. The subsequent steps must be performed with extreme caution so as not to tear or puncture the film. If this could not be avoided, the holes must be immediately closed with polyethylene patches.

Step 3. Ideally, the waterproofing layer should be without joints at all. If there are joints, then they are all firmly glued with adhesive tape. Further work leveling layer will largely depend on the tightness of the waterproofing.

edging tape prices

edging tape

Stage six. Reinforcement

If the concrete layer is thick enough, then it must be reinforced. There are several methods of reinforcement, only the most common are considered below.

Method number 1. Reinforcing mesh

A very common option, which, however, is not particularly suitable in this case. The fact is that the previous layer is polyethylene, which can be damaged by the mesh. It will be quite difficult to move through the reinforcement without violating the integrity of the insulation. In addition, the film, as noted above, must be in direct contact with concrete, so the mesh must be located in the body of the screed.

For this reason, concrete is poured in two layers:

• poured - without beacons - the first layer;
• the grid is laid, beacons are installed;
• the second layer is poured.

It would seem that nothing complicated, but the concrete layer will dry for a long time - the interval between layers can reach 1 month. Therefore, it is better to resort to the second method.

Method number 2. fiberglass

The next reinforcement method is to add fiberglass directly to the concrete mix at the stage of preparation. The polymer fibers that make up this material are arranged randomly, resulting in maximum bond strength in all directions.

Moreover, the total weight of the screed will noticeably decrease due to the rejection of the metal mesh. Further actions are focused on the use of this particular method.

fiber prices

fiberglass

Stage seven. Installation of leveling

Lighthouses need to be built especially carefully, there can be no talk of any screws and nails. The foundations for future "beds" are made from the same solution that will be used for the screed. "Beds" are formed along the entire length of each of the lighthouses.

Important information! The distance between the "beds" must necessarily be 10-15 cm shorter than the length of the rule (often it is about 120 cm). The distance between the surfaces of the walls and the extreme "beds" should be 25-30 cm.

The metal profile is laid on the tops of the "beds" and heated in the solution in such a way that the height noted earlier (the level of the leveling layer) is reached. The installation of beacons must be done a maximum of an hour after mixing the solution, otherwise it will seize.

Stage eight. Mixing the solution

A mixture for concrete screed can be purchased ready-made or made independently. Factory dry mixes are sold in bags of 25 kg and 50 kg and diluted with water (6.5 liters per bag or 13 liters, respectively). If necessary, the amount of water can be increased, but not more than 0.5 liters.

All components are mixed with an electric drill with a mixer nozzle, the finished mixture should be used for a maximum of 15 minutes.

For self-preparation of the solution, you need to mix cement (at least “four hundredth”) and sifted sand (preferably river sand) in a ratio of 1: 3. An electric drill is also used for kneading, but the whole procedure is performed in 2 stages. The finished solution must be used no later than 1.5 hours after mixing.

Important information! The strength and water resistance of the solution can be increased by adding special plasticizers (the proportions are indicated on the package). Although there is a cheaper alternative to plasticizer - the usual washing powder(a handful for every 100 liters of water).

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Stage nine. fill

The filling procedure is carried out traditionally, i.e. continuously. You should start from the far corner relative to front door. The surface is leveled using a rule.

24 hours after pouring the screed, the beacons are removed, and the remaining voids are treated with a primer, filled with the same solution and leveled with a trowel.

Video - Screed on a wooden floor

Further care of the screed

Care requirements are the same for a finished dry screed, and for a home-made cement-sand mortar. The next day after pouring, the screed is moistened, the procedure is repeated daily for one week. For the first four days, the concrete must be covered with plastic wrap so that moisture evenly evaporates from the screed.

This completes the procedure for pouring the screed onto the wooden floor.

You can equip the floor in the bath with your own hands in case correct execution all necessary work. The service life of the floor depends on the quality of the base preparation, the choice of insulating materials and the finishing coating. We will consider the installation of floors for a bath, the features of their installation, as well as the technological nuances that must be taken into account.

Features of the device floors in the bath

How to make a durable and wear-resistant floor in the bath? The construction of the bath as such is carried out taking into account many nuances. A room with a specific microclimate provides extreme operating conditions floor covering. High humidity, constant temperature fluctuations and contact of the floor base with water can significantly reduce the life of the floor.

Choice specific method arrangement of the base in a "damp" room depends on such factors:

• method of heat and waterproofing;
• type of foundation and the presence of an underground;
• seasonal use of the bath;
• type of soil under the building;
• structural features of the building.

If the bath is planned to be used throughout the year, in this case it is more expedient to make a solid foundation with pouring a concrete screed. In a frame building, which is used only in the warm season, it is best to make a wooden floor, since its assembly from an economic point of view will be more profitable.

Types of wood floors

The device of the base with the help of wooden flooring will be the most acceptable for seasonal buildings. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, it helps to save heat in a "damp" room. However, high humidity can cause wood elements to rot. To avoid this, experts recommend using floor logs and flooring made from coniferous wood. They are less hygroscopic due to the presence of natural resins in the wood structure.

All types of wooden coverings for baths can be conditionally divided into the following categories:

1. Leaking. The boards are laid at a certain interval, so water is immediately removed from the room due to the cracks formed in the coating, the size of which varies from 3 to 7 mm. The device of such a foundation is beneficial for several reasons:
   • simple installation;
   • low cost of floors;
   • no need to install a drain system.
2. Non-leaking. A monolithic coating assembled from boards can be used in buildings that are used all year round. However, in this case, it is necessary to install a water collector in the base, with the help of which the waste water would be discharged into the sewer. The non-leakage coating device has the following advantages:
   • long period of operation;
   • good thermal insulation of the room;
   • the possibility of assembling underfloor heating.

Necessary tools

The construction of a bath is a laborious and responsible process, but one of its most important stages is the arrangement of floors. The microclimate in the room depends on the quality of the installation work associated with the installation of the sewer system and the laying of floor materials. To implement all the stages of floor construction correctly, first of all, you need to have the necessary tools at hand.

The device of a concrete base is possible with the following tools:

• concrete mixer;
• lighthouses;
• rule (for alignment);
• building level;
• container for solution;
• shovel.

To make a wooden coating, you will need other tools:

• hammer;
• jigsaw (angle grinder);
• plane;
• roulette;
• nails.

To understand how to properly mount the floors in the bath, consider a step-by-step guide to laying wooden and concrete floors.

Standard floor construction

The base, equipped in the steam room, should be located 8-9 cm above the zero level. In this case, the temperature in the room will remain at the required level for a long time. At the same time, in the washing room, the base is made somewhat lower than in other rooms of the bath. This avoids water leakage under the floor into the dressing room, shower room, etc.

The standard flooring is represented by a multilayer cake:

• waterproofing layer (placed on the ground);
• bars under a wooden crate;
• draft coating;
• insulating materials (insulation, waterproofing);
• logs for assembling the crate;
• heat and water insulators;
• lining;
• air bag;
• wood and concrete layer;
• decorative coating.

Features of the preparation of the base

The traditional construction of a warm floor begins with preparatory work. To ensure a long service life of the finish coating, in the process of preparing the base, the following work is performed:

1. In place of future floors, a mineral pillow is laid, represented by broken bricks or expanded clay granules. The thickness of the drainage layer must be at least 15 cm;
2. Gravel or gravel 10-15 cm thick is poured from above;
3. Then the laid materials are well compacted.

Laying a mineral cushion helps to break capillarity, due to which ground moisture rises to the base and destroys it.

Preparation of the working mixture for concrete floors

To make a high-quality solution for pouring the screed, you need to strictly observe the proportions and order of adding the necessary components. To improve the thermal insulation qualities of the mixture, perlite can be added to its composition. The process of preparing the solution is implemented in two stages.

First stage:

1. 10 liters of clean water are poured into the concrete mixer;
2. Then about 2 buckets of expanded sand are poured;
3. The components are mixed;
4. Next, add 5 liters of cement grade M-300, not lower;
5. The mixture is well stirred;
6. Then add about 5 more liters of water;
7. Stir the solution until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Can be improved if needed specifications composition by adding perlite to it. To do this, do the following:

1. 10 kg of perlite are poured into the previously prepared solution;
2. Add about 2-2.5 liters of water;
3. The components are mixed until the concrete mass turns into loose;
4. After 10 minutes, the components of the mixture are again well mixed.

Ultimately, a loose composition will be obtained, which in consistency will resemble plasticine. After that, a screed is made on the prepared base.

Filling the first layer

If the area of ​​​​the rough coating is small, the screed is made immediately on the entire site. To fill the screed over a large area, the room is conditionally divided into strips, processing each one in turn. How to lay the first layer of concrete mix?

1. The thickness of the "rough" screed must reach at least 12 cm;
2. The horizontality of the laid layer is checked with a level;
3. Level the mixture using the rule;
4. So that water does not accumulate on the surface of the finished floor, the screed is made with a slight slope towards the pit;
5. The slope of the screed must be at least 1 cm per meter of length.

Thermal and waterproofing of concrete floors

As soon as the screed hardens, you need to proceed to the stage of thermal and waterproofing of the coating. Before laying insulating materials, the concrete surface is checked for bulges, cracks and dents. If necessary, the defects on the coating close up.

As a waterproofing material, as a rule, the following are chosen:

• bituminous mastic;
• polyethylene film;
• roll roofing material.

After arranging waterproofing, it is necessary to make floor insulation. For these purposes can be used:

• mineral wool;
• polystyrene;
• penoplex;
• granulated expanded clay;
• foam concrete.

The thickness of the heat-insulating layer should be 10-15 cm. As practice shows, expanded clay is the optimal insulation for concrete surfaces. It does not absorb moisture, weighs little and also has good sound insulation.

Filling the finishing screed

Laying the finishing layer of the screed technologically differs little from the previous version. But in this case, the thickness of the screed can vary from 8 to 10 cm. It should be noted that in the process of pouring the mixture, it is necessary to monitor the observance of the slope towards the water collector.

And yet, the arrangement of floors in large and small rooms is slightly different. If the base area is large enough, to give the structure greater strength, it is worth laying a reinforcing mesh before pouring the screed. In this case, even with intensive use of the bath, the rough coating will not crack.

Features of wooden floors

Wooden flooring is a traditional type of coating that is used for arranging floors in a bath. Despite the hygroscopicity, this type of material is still in demand among consumers due to the following qualities:

• Wood is environmentally friendly and safe for health;
• The flooring has a low thermal conductivity, unlike concrete;
• Wooden flooring creates a more comfortable atmosphere in the room.

In addition, you can make a wooden base in just a few days, since the stage of “wet” work can be bypassed, which you cannot do when pouring the screed.

Laying wooden floors

How to lay wooden floors correctly? Mounting a wooden base is quite easy, but you need to take into account a lot of technological nuances. The whole process of arranging floors is divided into the following stages:

1. Construction of support posts. To install the supports, rather thick bars with a cross section of 15 cm are used. It is the racks that will experience the greatest load during the operation of the base of the floor covering. They are placed on metal or brick pillars, secured with steel brackets. When arranging floors in a bathhouse erected on a pile foundation, the lag is laid on a mortgage crown;
2. Underground installation. In the case of assembling leaking floors, a 20 cm layer of gravel or expanded clay is laid in the underground. If the soil is clayey and does not absorb moisture well, a reservoir is installed under the floor to collect runoff water, which by gravity flows into the sewer through a pipeline. If you need to make a non-leaking base, it is mandatory to insulate it (expanded clay, foam plastic). To ensure normal ventilation of the underground, ventilation holes are made in the foundation for better air circulation;
3. Laying lag and finishing flooring. To arrange leaking floors, the logs are placed in random order, observing horizontality. When installing a non-leaking base, we make a slope from the log towards the pit. In the case of non-leaking floors, cranial blocks are nailed to the logs, on which draft boards are thrown. Then they put a layer of hydro and heat insulator. After that, the wooden crate is sheathed with a grooved board. Inside the "pie", between the finishing boards and the logs, there should be a gap of 10-12 cm for ventilation of the underground.

It is very problematic to build a bath with a wear-resistant floor, given the specific microclimate in the room. To increase the period of operation of the floor covering, during its installation it is worth considering such moments.

The floor in the bath has many important differences from the floors in various other rooms. First of all, the bath floor must be completely safe for movement in conditions of constantly high humidity and temperature.

In addition, the floor at the same time performs the functions of an element of the sewer system - subject to proper arrangement, the design will ensure the full drainage of water. Thanks to this, the floor will remain intact and reliable much longer.

Traditionally, wood and concrete are used to make a bath floor. Check out the features of each option and choose the one that suits you. With the arrangement of any kind of design, you can handle it yourself.

Before starting work, select the appropriate material for arranging the floor, as well as decide on the preferred type of construction.

Production material

As already noted, in bath houses the floors are made of wooden elements or concrete.

It will take more time, effort and money to equip a concrete floor, but such a design will last much longer compared to its wooden counterpart.

The construction of a floor from lumber requires minimal time, labor and money, but after 5-10 years of operation, the elements of such a structure will have to be changed.

Wood floors are divided into leaky and non-leaking varieties.

Leaking floor

The most budgetary and easy to self-arrange design. Such a floor has the form of a boardwalk, the elements of which are laid at intervals to drain water from the bath into the ground.

Any additional devices, with the exception of perhaps an elementary drainage system in the underground, are not provided. Thermal insulation of such a floor is also not performed. In view of this, it is recommended to give preference to leaking structures only for the owners of baths in the southern regions. Also, such a floor would be appropriate in a country bath, used from time to time.

The leaking floor for the bath is extremely simple in self-arrangement. Repair and self-replacement of worn components will also not cause any difficulties. In this design, the boards are not fixed to the lags, so in the future the owner will be able to remove them without any problems and take them out of the room to the street for better drying.

If desired, instead of the traditional underground backfill, a pallet can be used, the liquid from which will be discharged into some suitable object of the sewer system.

It is somewhat more difficult to equip such a floor compared to a leaking counterpart. Such a system is laid out from two rows of high-quality wooden boards. For laying the first row, use larch or pine board. The finishing row is laid on logs, previously placed on reliable supports. The boards of this series should be of the highest quality, without the slightest knots and gaps.

Under the upper flooring, a subfloor is arranged. You can use a heater. The floorboards of the draft part should be placed with some slope in the direction of collecting wastewater and further disposal of waste into a septic tank or sewer ditch.

To ensure the drainage of wastewater, a hole must be made at the bottom of the flooring suitable sizes to connect the siphon.

"Pie" of the concrete floor in the steam room

The arrangement of the capital floor involves the formation of a kind of "pie", which includes six main "layers", namely:

• properly prepared for further concreting, high-quality compacted and hardened earthen base;
• first concrete pour. Usually a layer is made 50 mm thick;
• thermal insulation material. Most often, expanded clay backfill is used;
• reinforcing layer of concrete with mesh;
• leveling layer;
• finish coating.

The soil, thermal insulation and each concrete layer - all this must have a slope towards the drain pit, i.e. the floor structure must be equipped with a normal bath drain. The slope is standard - about 10 degrees.

Choose the right floor plan. First, think about what kind of stove you will install in your steam room and whether a separate foundation is needed to place it. The basis for the furnace unit is best created at the stage of arranging the bath floor.

Wooden floor. Features of installation of leaking and non-leaking floors

The erection of the floor from the log and boards is carried out in several stages. Perform each of them sequentially, and you will get a reliable coating with excellent performance properties.

The first stage - supports

There is practically nothing complicated in the independent arrangement of a wooden floor. Prepare a quality wooden beam section 150x150 mm. Boards will be attached to it.

The logs will experience a fairly high load, so they can only be placed on supports. For the manufacture of such supports, it is allowed to use brick or reinforced concrete. Racks must be at least 150 mm thick. The racks themselves also rely on additional platforms. The width of such a platform should be approximately 70 mm greater than the width of the support post.

Select the height of the racks in accordance with the height of the foundation. In case of strip foundation racks should be placed flush with the edge of the base, but in the case of a columnar foundation, make the racks such that their upper ends are flush with the upper ends of the pillars.

All supports are subject to mandatory waterproofing. To protect against moisture, bitumen or roofing material is usually used. Wooden structural elements are necessarily impregnated with an antiseptic.

Second stage - underground

Start filling the underground space. If the floor of the bath flowing, pour about an 25 cm cushion of gravel into the bottom of the cellar. If the soil at the construction site does not absorb liquid well, be sure to install a separate container of a suitable volume to collect wastewater.

When erecting non-leaking floor instead of gravel, expanded clay should be used. Make the height of the backfill such that its upper edge does not reach the lag by about 150 mm - this is the necessary ventilation gap. Tamp the backfill carefully.

The third stage - logs and boards

Proceed to laying the lag. If done flowing floor, you can start laying them from any wall convenient for you. If the floor non-leaking, mount logs with a slope to the drain.

Lay the logs on the supporting elements prepared for them. For additional security, you can fasten the logs to the supports using any suitable fasteners.

Start laying boards. If the floor is non-leaking, first equip the base (draft) base with moisture insulation and insulation, and already lay the tongue-and-groove boards on top of it. Direct the groove of the boards inside the steam room. Use nails, screws or other suitable fasteners to fasten the boards to the joists.

The plank floor does not need finishing.

Important: the wood in the steam room cannot be treated with any paints and varnishes.

Concrete floor

The concrete floor has many important advantages over wooden counterparts, among which the following points must be highlighted:

• resistance to temperature extremes and high humidity;
• long service life;
• unpretentiousness in care and handling;
• resistance to decay, corrosion, mechanical and other damage.

Arrangement

Carefully compact the soil and form on it about a 15-centimeter cushion of crushed stone soaked in bitumen. Crushed stone will contribute to an even distribution of the load.

Consider insulation. You can make a two-layer base with a layer of heat-insulating base, form a heat-insulating layer on top of the concrete and lay a top coat on top, or install a floor heating system.

Most often, the option with double laying of concrete is chosen. Pour the bottom layer from the solution using large gravel (30-35 mm). This layer will be 15 cm thick.

If the steam room has a small area, you can pour the screed immediately over the entire base. Otherwise, it will be more convenient to divide the space into meter strips using guides.

It is important that the screed is as even and of high quality as possible.

Let the concrete dry and lay or pour the selected thermal insulation material on top of it.

Regardless of which insulation you decide to use for thermal insulation of the floor, the insulation material is laid on a pre-equipped moisture-proof layer. For waterproofing, roofing material or polyethylene is usually used. If you wish, you can buy some modern coating solution.

Warming, as already noted, is performed after the first layer of the concrete floor has dried. Expanded clay, boiler slag, mineral wool in slabs (mats), foam plastic and other similar materials are perfect for thermal insulation.

Each listed material has both a number of important advantages and some disadvantages. For example, at expanded clay gravel rather high cost, however, for the arrangement of a layer with the necessary thermal insulation properties of expanded clay, it will take much less than the same slag.

Styrofoam characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties, however, the service life of such insulation in a bath leaves much to be desired.

Mineral wool insulation also have excellent performance, but are not environmentally friendly.

Thus, each insulation has its drawbacks. Therefore, the final choice always remains with the user.

Traditionally, tiles or mosaics are used to finish the concrete floor. In the case of tiling, in most cases it is possible to refuse to pour a second layer of concrete, replacing it with a self-levelling mixture.

Cover the thermal insulation layer with a waterproofing material of your choice. Pour a 1.5-2 cm layer of a special self-leveling compound over the insulation. Such a fill will be an excellent basis for finishing cladding of tiles.

To fix the tiles, use a specially designed adhesive. Cover the entire planned surface, let the glue dry and grout the tile joints.

Before pouring the self-levelling compound, you can lay the elements of the floor heating system. However, in traditional Russian steam rooms and Finnish saunas, this is usually not necessary, but, for example, in a Turkish hammam, a heated floor will be more than appropriate.

Now you can independently equip the floor in your steam room. At the same time, you have a choice - you can make both a beautiful wooden floor and a solid and durable concrete floor. It all depends solely on your personal preferences and features of the operation of the bath. choose suitable option and get started.

Successful work!

Video - Do-it-yourself floors in the bath

The floor in the bath differs in its structure only in the steam room and washing room. The rest of the baths are operated in the usual humidity regime. In the article, we will consider in detail the arrangement of floors in the steam room and talk about how to lay them with your own hands.

The choice of the design of the floor of the steam room and washing

The usual solution would be wooden floors. Their main advantage is the health benefits of wood, environmental friendliness and practicality. Despite the relatively short service life of wooden floors in a steam room, they are not so difficult to change, and the total cost will still be lower than the arrangement of a concrete floor.

In the steam room and washing room, a fair amount of water constantly falls on the floor, which should be diverted to the pit, drainage system, or simply into the ground under the bath. In a constructive way, to solve this problem, wooden floors are divided into leaking and non-leaking.

The leaking floor provides a gap between the boards. Water seeps freely into the underfloor. Then it is absorbed into the soil, if its filtering capacity allows it, or is discharged into a pit, for which a clay castle or concrete base is formed with a slope in one direction.

The second option is a non-leaking floor in the wet rooms of the bath. Such a floor is made with a non-removable coating and is replaced only at the end of its service life. A slope for collecting and draining water is provided here along the surface of the floor covering towards the tray or funnel.

A floor with a removable coating can and even needs to be disassembled and dried regularly until the bath is in use. Fixed floors due to susceptibility to decay during high humidity change completely about once every 7-8 years.

A concrete base under a leaking wooden floor in a bath significantly increases the durability of the structure, and also affects comfort - even after many years there will be no musty smell from under the floor. However, the arrangement of a concrete base significantly increases the cost of arranging a bath, so if the parent soil under the building has a high drainage capacity, then it is easier to get by with preparing a filter layer.

Materials and tools

To cover the floor in the steam room and washing room, wooden elements made of deciduous (linden, aspen) and coniferous (pine, larch, cedar) wood species are used. All wooden floor structures must be treated with antiseptics.

For flooring you will need:

• wooden beam for logs 50 (100) x100 mm;
• floor board 35 mm thick;
• cement M300, M400;
• sand of medium fraction;
• expanded clay for the heat-insulating layer;
• ordinary clay brick for posts under logs;
• waterproofing (roofing material).

It is important to choose the right protective wood impregnation. It should be suitable for baths due to high temperature and humidity. The easiest way to process wood is impregnation sunflower oil for two approaches.

Tool

The floors in the steam room are arranged using a tool for laying a concrete base on the ground and wood flooring bath floor.

Tools for working with concrete. 1. Rake-stroke. 2. Cement grater. 3. Trowel. 4. Ironer. 5. Corner ironer. 6. Rule. 7. Bubble level. 8. Pendulum profile

Woodworking tools. 1. Construction corner. 2. Staple. 3. Hammer. 4. Electric planer. 5. Clamps. 6. Hacksaw for wood. 7. Bubble level. 8. Screwdriver. 9. Drill. 10. A circular saw machine

Leaking floor from individual boards with chamfers

To prepare the soil base for the floor structure, it is imperative to remove the fertile layer, no matter how thick it is.

Leaking floor over concrete base. 1. Ground. 2. Expanded clay concrete. 3. Cement strainer. 4. Gutter. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

Flowing floor on the ground with filtering capacity. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Gravel. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick pillar. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

It is important at this stage to decide how and where the water will be drained outside the building. For this, a tray (200x150h mm) is provided in the concrete base, into which water flows. The bottom of the tray is made with a slope towards the drain pit (30x30x25h). It is better to locate the pit closer to the place of the external water collector. From the pit, water flows through drain pipe into the water collector.

The slope of the surface for water flow is 2-3 cm per meter in the direction of the tray. It is created either by leveling the ground under the floor, or by filling (sand and gravel) under the concrete base. The overall level of the floor in the steam room and washing room is 30 mm lower than in adjacent rooms with normal humidity.

A sand and gravel cushion 10-15 cm thick is laid on the compacted soil. It is necessary to fill and compact the sand in layers of no more than 5 cm, wetting it with water. Next, a heat-insulating layer of expanded clay concrete is laid. Approximate consumption source materials per 1 m 3 of concrete is:

1. without sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 250 kg;
   • expanded clay - 720 kg;
   • water - 100-150 l.
2. with sand:
   • cement M300, 400 - 230 kg;
   • expanded clay - 440 kg;
   • sand - 195 kg;
   • water - 100-130 l.

It is best to prepare a concrete solution in a concrete mixer or order

It is also possible to use another light filler (shungizite, perlite, expanded vermiculite, crushed stone of porous rocks, etc.). The thickness of the expanded clay concrete layer can be taken as 150 mm. Concrete is laid in strips no more than 2.5 m wide on a base moistened with water. To limit the strips, rails are installed, they also serve as beacons for determining the thickness of the layer. The thicker the insulation layer, the warmer the floor.

Be sure to observe the slope towards the gutter or funnel to collect and drain water

A cement-sand screed 40 mm thick is laid on the layer of expanded clay concrete. The composition of the mortar (M100) cement / sand: one to three. Before the mortar sets, it is necessary to iron the surface with cement milk. Cement is mixed with water to the state of liquid sour cream. The surface is covered with an even thin layer of the mixture. This is done to increase the water resistance of the concrete base.

Under the logs, brick columns are installed from solid clay ordinary bricks (250x250 mm) on a cement-sand mortar. The distance between the posts is 0.8-1.0 m in the center. 2 layers of roofing material are laid on their surface. Next, the lags are laid. The floorboards of the leaking floor have chamfers along the edges for water drainage. The gap between the boards is 5-6 mm.

Important! Do not use sand-lime bricks, hollow stones, silicate blocks in damp and wet rooms.

Such a floor is made removable in order to be able to dry floorboard to increase service life. The boards can move when walking on them, they are often caught with nails, landing nests up to 5 mm deep are prepared under them in the logs, or spacers are stuffed on the boards along the edges.

Leaking floor made of removable panels

The floor covering of the steam room and soap room can be made from removable wooden shields. The boards of the shield are laid with a gap on the transverse bars 50x50 mm. The size of the shields is taken for reasons of ease of removal and drying.

The floor structure is the same: compacted soil, compacted sand and gravel mixture, insulation - expanded clay concrete 150 mm thick. Ceramic floor tiles are laid on a cement-sand mortar with a thickness of 10-15 mm. The floor has a slope that is directed towards the drain tray. Removable shields are installed on the tile so that the lower bars are located along the water drain.

The sequence of works of a non-leaking floor

A non-leaking wooden floor involves a continuous flooring of tongue-and-groove boards along the logs. First determine the location of the support columns. They are placed at a distance of 0.8-1.0 m from each other, measuring the distances in the centers. A concrete pad 100 mm thick and 70 mm wider than the size of the post is prepared for each post.

Solid non-leaking floor over the ground. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. The foundation of the supporting column. 5. Brick column. 6. Waterproofing. 7. Lags. 8. Floor board

A solid, non-leaking floor must be laid with a slope. The gutter can be placed in one of the logs located close to the wall. 1. Ground. 2. Sand cushion. 3. Expanded clay or other bulk heat-insulating material. 4. Brick column on a concrete base. 5. Gutter. 6. Floor board

Supports for logs are made of concrete or ordinary clay bricks on a cement-sand mortar. The size of the columns is 250x250 mm. The height of the supports must correspond to the upper edge of the embedded beam (columnar foundation), or the top of the strip foundation.

The direction of laying the log should be perpendicular to the direction of water flow. Wooden elements are necessarily isolated from concrete or brick with two layers of waterproofing (roofing material). Expanded clay bedding 15 cm thick is made on the compacted soil.

An uninsulated floor option is shown in the figure. In this case, the boards rest on one side of the wall log, on the other - on the gutter log. The tray is covered from above with a wooden ladder.

The insulated floor involves logs with cranial bars to which the black floor is attached. Next, a vapor barrier is laid (membrane, polyethylene, polypropylene films), a layer of heat insulator (mineral wool board, polystyrene) is laid on it. Rolled waterproofing (roofing material) is laid on the heat-insulating layer.

Insulated non-leaking floor. 1. Soil, sand cushion and bulk insulation. 2. Brick pillar. 3. Logs and rough wooden floor. 4. Insulation. 5. Logs and finished floor laid with a slope towards the gutter. 6. Gutter. 7. A vapor-permeable membrane is laid on top of the subfloor, waterproofing is laid on top of the thermal insulation layer

There must be a gap of at least 3 cm between the clean floor and the waterproofing. The lag size in this case is 100x170 mm. Skull bar - 40x40 mm. For logs, only a solid beam must be used.

Grooved boards are laid along the lags. Boards are sewn with nails or self-tapping screws to the logs through the tongue. This method of rallying boards is called "parquet". Its advantage is the absence of hats on the surface of the board.

Each board is attached to all lags. They should fit snugly against each other. The gap between the boards should not exceed 1 mm. For rallying the boards, staples or clamps are used. Nails for fastening are used 2-2.5 times longer than the thickness of the boards. The end of the plank floor does not reach the wall by 10-20 mm. In the future, the gap is covered with a plinth.

Drainage of water from the floor surface occurs due to the slope of the floor in two directions. A hole is made at the drain point and a siphon is installed. The slope of the floor can be done by adjusting the height of the log.