Drainage system in the basement of a private house. Dry basement or how to make drainage in the basement of the house yourself? How to make simple and effective drainage in the basement of the house

03.03.2020

To ensure the normal humidity of the basement and prevent the possibility of flooding the basement, arrange external and internal drainage of the basement. This allows timely removal of ground and sedimentary moisture as it arrives. We will tell you how to make drainage in the basement of the house with your own hands.

Purpose

Any direct appointment drainage system is the collection and removal of water from the site. Why is it so important? Let's figure it out.

If we consider the soil characteristic of middle lane Russia in the context, we will see that the upper fertile layer is replaced by sandy loam, consisting of a mixture of sand and earth. This layer perfectly passes moisture.

Then the sandy loam is replaced by loam, where the sand is mixed with layers of clay. Moreover, the arrangement of sand and clay is often layered, resembling a pie. Water penetrates through the sand, but lingers on a layer of clay.

When the clay layer forms a container like a bowl, moisture accumulates in this reservoir until it begins to overflow and go to the lower layers. It may happen that your house is on a hill, but at the same time the layer of clay located under the ground slopes towards the house, and water will still accumulate around the foundation, putting pressure on it and penetrating into the concrete structure and into the basement.

Even the most reliable waterproofing is unlikely to cope with such water pressure, and as a result you will get. In addition, water, moving along a layer of clay, rests against the foundation wall, which is covered with waterproofing material. Naturally, it will begin to flow down and accumulate at the foot of the foundation, gradually flooding the entire pit.

If in summer this process occurs gradually, and in most cases sedimentary water has time to evaporate and disperse in the sandy sponge of the soil, then in winter the picture changes dramatically: all water accumulates on the surface of the earth in the form of snow and ice, and in upper layers frozen soil in the form of crystals mixed with earth.

The most interesting begins with the arrival of the spring thaw. Snow and ice melt on the surface of the earth, but the water does not go deep, since the earth is still frozen. But around a heated house (especially if the basement also has heating), the earth thaws quickly, and all the moisture accumulated on the surface rushes to the foundation, and sharply.

As a result, we see flooded basements and cellars, constant dirt on the site, the presence of a musty smell in the basements, mold, moss, and sometimes even reeds. All this, in the end, leads to the destruction of the foundation, damage to the walls of the basement, rotting of the floor structures of the first floor and other undesirable consequences.

Important!
The drainage system avoids the accumulation of water in the vicinity of building structures, which leads to a significant increase in comfort and an increase in the life of the entire structure.

Advantages

Many believe that the construction of a drainage system is an extra waste of effort and money. Say, it is enough to coat the walls of the foundation bituminous mastic- and all will be well. This is not entirely true.

Coating or any other waterproofing does not cope well with pressure water, which will always find a flaw, a crack, a capillary - and penetrate inside. Such insulation is designed to protect the structure from capillary moisture, evaporation and condensate, but not from the constant pressure of a large mass of liquid.

The use of a drainage system whole line advantages:

The effect of soil drainage is observed throughout the area, especially around the house and other buildings equipped with drainage;
Water does not accumulate in natural soil reservoirs, but enters the drainage pipes and is discharged as it enters a special collector well, from which it is pumped into the sewer system or a special place for water discharge;
Rainwater running off the roofs does not enter the soil around the house, and through drainpipes enters the gutters connected to the inspection and collector wells;
The wall drainage system collects moisture, which flows in the form of condensate from the foundation walls, and also removes it to a specially designated place;
The internal drainage system of the basement allows you to remove moisture directly from the room itself which prevents floods.

Important!
With all these advantages, the cost of constructing a drainage system is not so high if the work is done independently.

Basement circular drainage installation

If you decide to build a drainage system yourself, our instructions will help you:

At a distance of 1 to 3 meters from the perimeter of the house, we dig a trench around the entire foundation. Trench depth - 20 cm below the foot of the foundation slab;

At the bottom of the trench we pour a layer of sand and gravel 200 mm thick. When backfilling, we make a slope from one of the corners of the trench in both directions, at least 2 cm per meter of length, as a result, the lowest corner should be at or below the foot of the foundation, and the highest - no higher;

At the bottom we form a backfill with a slope of at least 2%.

Drainage in the basement of the house in some cases is simply necessary. After all, moisture and dampness in the basement can not only damage the stored products, but also affect the durability of the building itself.

If the room is already standing, then you will have to drain the basement from the inside, it’s true that it will give no small effect, but all the work will need to be done with high quality. Today, instructions will be given for doing this work. You can also watch videos on this topic.

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To reduce the cost of construction, the owners refuse to do drainage, preferring waterproofing.

If the soil on the site is clayey, then moisture will linger in it for a long time.

Savings are justified if:

Groundwater is below the foundation level.
The house stands on sandy soils that pass moisture well.
Nearby there are no swamps or reservoirs that overflow their banks in spring.

However, basement drainage is necessary when development is carried out in a risk area. You need to pay attention to the following signs of excess water in the soil:

The site is sloping or located at the foot of the slope, along which precipitation flows.
There were cases of flooding of the area during the melting of snow and seasonal rains.
The soil around the foundation contains clay or loam, which prevents the distribution of moisture.

Geodetic expertise will help determine the type of soil and the need for basement drainage.

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Execution of works

Drainage in the basement of the house can be done by anyone. It just takes patience and the right selection of materials to do the job.

Also, one should not forget about the quality of the preparation of the base plane. Without this, the material will not hold firmly and will not perform its functions.

The need for drainage in the basement

The pride of a zealous owner can be a dry basement with well-made drainage and waterproofing.

In a room where water does not accumulate and the air is not waterlogged, there are much more chances to keep fresh and canned vegetables and fruits prepared for the winter.
A damp basement is absolutely unsuitable for this purpose.

Attention: Moreover, it can become a source of dampness for the whole house, threatening the appearance of mold and fungus in the upper rooms.

At correct device drainage system reduces the risk of flooding, strengthens the foundation of the house and increases load bearing capacity base soil:

Fighting dampness is sometimes very difficult, but possible. Dryness and cleanliness in the basement can be achieved with your own hands by installing a drainage system and waterproofing the walls. You just need to stock up on some knowledge and make some effort.
An indispensable condition for carrying out drainage work in the basement is good quality their execution. Then only you can count on a long-term drainage service.
If the technology is violated, materials are replaced with cheaper ones, or the work is done in bad faith, then in the future, repeated repair work. And this is associated with significant financial costs.

Surface waterproofing

Dryness in the basement depends on how tight its walls and foundation are. Water can seep into the room. Therefore, first of all, you need to deal with the waterproofing of the walls.

First you need to remove the leaked water (read Water in the basement: what to do - liquidation measures), dry the surfaces with an electric heater and well ventilate the basement.
Concrete is cleaned of dirt and dust. Otherwise, the coating will not stick well and the desired effect of protection against moisture will not be achieved.
Most often for coating waterproofing use materials containing bitumen. To make a coating of the surface of the basement foundation is quite within the power of almost every owner of it.
Bitumen fills the pores of concrete, thereby blocking the path for water penetration.

Attention: Bituminous waterproofing is not durable, which is its serious drawback. Over time, there is a loss of elasticity and the coating cracks. Moisture begins to seep into the room through the cracks.

More durable waterproofing materials are plasticizers with a service life of up to 6 years and quite affordable prices. The latter circumstance makes this waterproofing quite popular among developers.
Another alternative to bitumen is hot mastics, which include petroleum bitumen, low molecular weight polypropylene and polyethylene. Such a mastic is applied to the surface by preheating it.
The advantages of this insulating material are its high performance characteristics. It has better adhesive properties, greater heat resistance and elasticity than bitumen.

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Source: https://Pogreb-podval.ru/v-garazhe/izolyaciya/drenazh-podvala-131

The device of the drainage system of a private house

Getting rid of water in the cellar is difficult and difficult, but it is quite possible even with your own hands. Basement flooding occurs due to floods or heavy rains. There is a lot of moisture and it flows into the underground room, which is the lowest point on the adjacent plot.

Need a dry cellar in a house or garage - make drainage for it

As a result of such a flood, damage is caused not only to the products stored inside, but also to the foundation of the dwelling. Water can destroy the most reliable foundation. Be sure to take care of its removal and drying the basement. Without drainage in the cellar, the structure above it can lead.

No matter how carefully the basement walls and floor are sealed, water will still find its way. Even through small cracks in a couple of days it will accumulate a lot in the cellar. You will either have to constantly pump out moisture, or build a gravity drainage system around the cottage.

There are many points of water penetration into the cellar, they must first be sealed

Drainage from the house can be done in two ways:

Open - surface, with the help of storm trays.
Closed - underground, with the help of drainage pipes with perforation.

Often with large volumes of water and clay soils you have to combine both options. However, if the aquifers lie deep and do not create problems, then when arranging drainage in the cellar, surface storm sewers can be dispensed with.

Advice! If on personal plot the clay layer in the ground has a slope towards the house or garage, then even the most reliable waterproofing will not save the basement from flooding. Not without water supply.

Drainage scheme with water diversion into a street storm collector

Any drainage system consists of:

water collectors (perforated pipes or gutters);
drainage pipelines;
wells (inspection and drainage).

First, water is diverted from the foundation into the water intake wells, and then pumped out from there using pumps or drained into the ground.

How best to drain the cellar: outside or inside

The drainage system in the basement can be equipped both inside and outside the building. In the first case, the drainage pipes are laid on the cellar floor, and in the second case, on the street along the foundation.

The drainage system inside the basement is easier to make, there will be less excavation work. However, you will have to raise the floor by the thickness of the pipes, which will reduce the size of the room, or break the concrete floor slab. The street version is more expensive and difficult to implement, but it is also more productive.

It should be clearly understood that the internal drainage in the cellar is able to collect only water that has already got inside. From high humidity and it will not protect the mold associated with it. But if it is supplemented with good exhaust ventilation, then the basement will definitely be dry.

Scheme of the internal drainage system in the cellar

Important point! In most situations, the internal drainage system will need to install a pump, and this is an additional expense and dependence on electricity.

Another significant difference between internal and external drainage is the level of laying pipes and wells. Inside, drainage pipelines, under any circumstances, will have to be mounted on the existing floor or, if it is earthen, go a little deeper into the ground. In this case, the external drainage well will need to be buried to a depth a little lower so that the water flows into it by gravity.

When laying drain pipes along the foundation outside the house, it is recommended to dig trenches below the freezing point of the soil. You will have to dig a lot. But in warm regions, they can be deepened by only half a meter, and these are completely different volumes of soil excavation and labor costs.

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The device of systems of water disposal

The drainage of a private house is a closed system of perforated pipes connected by manholes to control patency. Pipes are laid in the ground at an angle towards a large cistern or sewer. Such a device allows you to concentrate moisture and remove it away from the foundation.

Scheme of the device of the water drainage system from the foundation.

The main tank is periodically drained with a pump. The collected water is used for household needs or taken out of the site.

Modern drainage pipes and cisterns are made from polymer materials. They are easy to transport and install, even if the owner equips the site with his own hands. Plastic pipes are produced in different lengths and diameters. Materials are selected depending on the type of soil and the amount of moisture that needs to be removed throughout the year.

The perforated pipes that make up the drainage can become clogged with silt and soil particles. To increase the life of the system, the pipes are sprinkled with crushed stone and wrapped with geotextiles. Such a filter traps large particles and directs water to the drainage holes. At the request of the owner of the house, more expensive materials, such as coconut fiber, can be used.

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Source: https://PodvalDoma.ru/mikroklimat/gidroizolyaciya/vnutrennij-drenazh-podvala.html

The technology of installing a drainage system in the cellar

Drainage in the basement can be done internal or external. In many ways, the construction process is the same, but there are certain features and nuances. In any case, it is necessary to carry out geodetic studies of the soil structure and draw up a draft drainage system. This should be done by a competent specialist, amateur performance here can be expensive. There is a lot of excavation and installation work, and the result of unprofessional design will be zero.

External underground catchment along the foundation

To begin with, a trench up to half a meter wide is dug around the perimeter of the house. At its bottom, a cushion of sand with gravel (15–20 cm) is formed, on which geotextiles are spread. Then gravel (10 cm) is poured on it and perforated pipes are laid. Then they are sprinkled with rubble from the sides and top, and wrapped with geotextile.

Manholes and storage tanks are made using the same technology. A gravel-sand cushion is poured at the bottom, and plastic containers or reinforced concrete rings are installed on it.

Important! All drainage pipes should be laid at an angle of 2-3 degrees to the final storm pit. The water must flow in there.

Geotextiles should not be neglected, otherwise the perforation will quickly become clogged with silt, and the drainage will stop functioning properly. It is better to immediately purchase pipes wrapped with needle-punched geotextiles. The price will be more expensive, but you don’t have to mess around with wrapping.

Internal drainage: two options

Drainage inside the cellar can be done in two ways, by:

laying perforated pipes with water drainage into a well outside the building;
installation of a vertical drainage riser.

The first option is equipped, as well as external drainage. Only pipes are mounted inside the basement along the walls. If the floor is concreted, the drains are placed in the strobes punched in it. And in the case of an earthen one, you will have to dig a groove 30 cm deep around the perimeter of the room. The collected water is drained into an external well using a pipe laid in the basement wall or foundation.

Internal drainage of the basement in a private house

The second method involves the formation in one of the corners of the cellar a pit 20–30 cm deep and 30x30 cm in size, in the middle of which a well 3–4 cm thick is drilled. plastic pipe perforated at both ends. The upper holes will absorb the water that has flowed into the pit from the cellar floor, and the lower ones will drain it into the sand deep in the ground. In this case, the well will have to be buried by two to three meters so that it passes through the clay layer.

Drainage cellar in the garage

If the garage is insulated and landscaped, then it is better to organize drainage in the cellar by adopting one of the above methods. But for ordinary viewing hole you can choose a faster option.

The easiest drainage option is a drain pipe and a barrel outside with a pump

The simplest drainage system in a garage is a drainage pipe from the bottom of the cellar to a recessed tank outside, from which water will be pumped out as needed using a submersible pump. Everything is basic and cheap.

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Types of drainage systems

Often, a drainage system for the basement of a private house is created during planning. construction works. It is done both outside the building and from the inside.

The table below shows the characteristics of each option for arranging drainage.

№	Drainage inside basement	External water drainage system
1	involves the installation of pipes on the floor or, if it is earthen, their slight penetration into the soil	in this case, the drainage network is laid along the base outside the house, digging deeper trenches
2	purpose of internal drainage - removal of already penetrated water	designed to divert water from the base, in order to prevent its entry into the basement (cellar)
3	the creation is accompanied by smaller volumes of earthworks	more expensive than the first option and labor costs are higher
4	the floor will need to be raised by the diameter of the pipes or cut ditches in it under them	characterized by greater performance than the internal method

In warm regions, external drainage is accompanied by lower labor and financial costs compared to cold ones. This is due to the fact that trenches dig shallow depths. If underground aquifers are deep from the surface, then even surface storm gutters can be dispensed with.

Arrangement of internal drainage

An internal dehydration system is often created when it is impossible or very problematic to organize external drainage. The arrangement of the drainage network of the basement from the inside is done in 2 ways:

pipes (perforated) are laid, connecting them to the well from the outside;
mount a vertical riser.

The first case implies that the do-it-yourself drainage system in the basement is created as follows:

the room is preliminarily drained and its walls are waterproofed;
around the perimeter of the room earthen floor they dig trenches having a depth of about 0.3 m, and grooves are created in concrete using a perforator or chipper;
drain pipes are laid in the recesses, connecting them with a well;
fall asleep the mounted network with gravel or crushed stone;
make a concrete screed;
waterproofing the floor and laying a new one on top.

This drainage option assumes that the liquid will be collected inside the tank and pumped to the outside, or without it, when you can make a slope for the stack.

The second method is implemented if the geological conditions at the site allow. At the same time, water is diverted into a foundation pillow of sand. The work is performed in the following sequence:

choosing any corner of the basement, they dig a pit there with dimensions of 0.3x0.3x0.3 m;
in its center a well is made with a diameter of 3–4 cm and a depth of 2–3 m;
a plastic tube is inserted inside, having holes on both sides.

Through the holes of the upper end, water enters the tube, and through the lower end into the sand.

The simplest option on how to make drainage in the basement of a house on your own is to install a pipe for drainage and install a barrel with a pump as a sump. The latter is necessary for pumping liquid into external wells.

Do-it-yourself drainage of a basement or cellar from the inside can be combined with external drainage. This increases the efficiency of the system made with the possibility of flooding with groundwater.

Creation of an external drainage system

The basement drainage in the house is laid outside, taking into account the fact that the water intake reservoir will be the lowest section. At the same time, water will drain due to the presence of a slope. The reservoirs are plastic containers or prefabricated concrete wells.

When performing work, the following materials are used:

crushed stone or gravel;
sand;
geotextile;
wells;
pipes with a cross section from 100 to 150 mm with holes and fittings.

For the manufacture of wells, pipes of large diameters, starting from 250 mm, can also be used.

Installation of the drainage system goes through a number of stages;

remove the formwork of the base;
trenches are dug along the foundation with a depth slightly below the base of the building and 0.4 m wide;
the recess is drained and its bottom is leveled;
apply a waterproofing coating to the foundation walls, and, if necessary, insulate them;
geotextiles are laid with a margin at the bottom of the trench;
from above, a backfill is made with a ten-centimeter layer of rubble, while creating with its help a slope in the right direction;
install a drainage line manholes on average through a distance equal to 20 m;
testing the system;
fall asleep pipes-drains with rubble;
all are closed with the left free edges of the geotextile;
make a mixture of sand, soil and gravel and fill it with a trench;
install a water intake at a distance of 10 m from the basement, placing it half a meter deeper than the drains are located;
connect the well to the drainage circuit, using a tee for this purpose, using a main pipe with a diameter of 150 mm;
the ditch is filled with the prepared mixture.

The main water intake well should be periodically drained so that the water in it is at a lower level than in the pipes. A pump equipped with appropriate sensors will simplify the whole process.

A variant of the drainage device in the basement is shown in the following video.

Effective basement drainage allows you to get rid of flooding, protect the foundation from destruction and extend the life of the structure. For the installation of a drainage system, you can attract specialists or do all the work yourself, which will save on construction. A variant of the drainage method is recommended to be determined at the design stage in order to avoid additional costs for rework and facilitate the process of creating a system.

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When snow melts, heavy rainfall occurs or the level rises ground water the cellar or basement may be heated. From constant dampness, food supplies deteriorate, foundations and walls, as well as other property, are destroyed. As a result, this leads to the destruction of the foundation and a decrease in the operating time of the entire building. Basement drainage drains water, preventing it from flooding. If the foundation is properly waterproofed, then all negative consequences are minimized. Integrated wastewater disposal provides for the creation of internal and external systems drainage.

Purpose and need for drainage

Drainage is done in order to remove water from the cellar, basement or from around land plot. With an abundance of precipitation, even the most reliable protective (waterproofing) coating is problematic to cope with their impact. This process is aggravated if the structures are located on clay soil types or with the presence of its layers located slightly below the foundation. Then natural water collectors are formed that accumulate moisture.

Drainage of the cellar or basement is necessary in the following cases:

when the house is built in a lowland, because plentiful streams will flow down from the slopes in spring and during rains, and groundwater often lies close to the surface there;
if seasonal flooding has occurred or the site with the building falls into the flood zone of the river;
when housing is located on clay or loamy soil type.

The need to create drainage in all the cases considered is due to the fact that waterproofing coatings cannot withstand the pressure of water. It flows through the cracks into the basements, flooding them.

You can save on the creation of drainage lines when:

near the house there are no rivers, reservoirs or marshes that overflow their banks when the flood period begins;
the site with the building is located on sandy soils, which easily pass liquid precipitation;
groundwater is deep enough, below the foundation.

The arrangement of the drainage system provides the following advantages:

water does not accumulate in clay (natural) reservoirs, but enters the well, from which it is sent to the sewer or special places intended for the discharge of wastewater;
the soil is drying up;
internal drainage saves cellars and basements from flooding.

It is recommended to equip the drainage system together with the waterproofing of the foundation in the presence of the considered risk factors. This avoids the accumulation of water near and inside courtyard buildings, which provides a significant increase in the comfort of living conditions and increases the service life of buildings.

System device

Basement drainage is closed system. The drainage of water from the structure is done in 2 ways:

closed, when perforated pipes are laid underground for drainage;
open, in which trenches are dug and equipped in a special way, creating a semblance of trays.

Quite often, if you have to deal with significant volumes of water, especially on clay soils Both methods are used in combination.

Any drainage system consists of the following elements:

water collectors created from pipes with holes or gutters;
drainage and manholes;
pipelines.

Initially, water enters perforated pipes, and from there to all wells. There it is absorbed by the soil or pumped out with a pump.

Types of drainage systems

Often, the basement drainage system of a private house is created when planning construction work. It is done both outside the building and from the inside.

The table below shows the characteristics of each option for arranging drainage.

№	Drainage inside basement	External water drainage system
1	involves the installation of pipes on the floor or, if it is earthen, their slight penetration into the soil	in this case, the drainage network is laid along the base outside the house, digging deeper trenches
2	purpose of internal drainage - removal of already penetrated water	designed to divert water from the base, in order to prevent its entry into the basement (cellar)
3	the creation is accompanied by smaller volumes of earthworks	more expensive than the first option and labor costs are higher
4	the floor will need to be raised by the diameter of the pipes or cut ditches in it under them	characterized by greater performance than the internal method

In warm regions, external drainage is accompanied by lower labor and financial costs compared to cold ones. This is due to the fact that trenches dig shallow depths. If underground aquifers are deep from the surface, then even surface storm gutters can be dispensed with.

Arrangement of internal drainage

pipes (perforated) are laid, connecting them to the well from the outside;
mount a vertical riser.

The first case implies that the do-it-yourself drainage system in the basement is created as follows:

the room is preliminarily drained and its walls are waterproofed;
along the perimeter of the room, trenches are dug in the earthen floor, having a depth of about 0.3 m, and grooves are created in the concrete using a perforator or chipper;
drain pipes are laid in the recesses, connecting them with a well;
fall asleep the mounted network with gravel or crushed stone;
make a concrete screed;
waterproofing the floor and laying a new one on top.

This drainage option assumes that the liquid will be collected inside the tank and pumped to the outside, or without it, when you can make a slope for the stack.

The second method is implemented if the geological conditions at the site allow. At the same time, water is diverted into a foundation pillow of sand. The work is performed in the following sequence:

choosing any corner of the basement, they dig a pit there with dimensions of 0.3x0.3x0.3 m;
in its center a well is made with a diameter of 3–4 cm and a depth of 2–3 m;
a plastic tube is inserted inside, having holes on both sides.

Through the holes of the upper end, water enters the tube, and through the lower end into the sand.

Do-it-yourself drainage of a basement or cellar from the inside can be combined with external drainage. This increases the efficiency of the system made with the possibility of flooding with groundwater.

Creation of an external drainage system

The basement drainage in the house is laid outside, taking into account the fact that the water intake reservoir will be the lowest section. At the same time, water will drain due to the presence of a slope. Reservoirs are plastic containers or prefabricated concrete wells.

When performing work, the following materials are used:

crushed stone or gravel;
sand;
geotextile;
wells;
pipes with a cross section from 100 to 150 mm with holes and fittings.

For the manufacture of wells, pipes of large diameters, starting from 250 mm, can also be used.

Installation of the drainage system goes through a number of stages;

remove the formwork of the base;
trenches are dug along the foundation with a depth slightly below the base of the building and 0.4 m wide;
the recess is drained and its bottom is leveled;
apply a waterproofing coating to the foundation walls, and, if necessary, insulate them;
geotextiles are laid with a margin at the bottom of the trench;
from above, a backfill is made with a ten-centimeter layer of rubble, while creating with its help a slope in the right direction;
install a drainage line by installing manholes at an average distance of 20 m;
testing the system;
fall asleep pipes-drains with rubble;
all are closed with the left free edges of the geotextile;
make a mixture of sand, soil and gravel and fill it with a trench;
install a water intake at a distance of 10 m from the basement, placing it half a meter deeper than the drains are located;
connect the well to the drainage circuit, using a tee for this purpose, using a main pipe with a diameter of 150 mm;
the ditch is filled with the prepared mixture.

The main water intake well should be periodically drained so that the water in it is at a lower level than in the pipes. A pump equipped with appropriate sensors will simplify the whole process.

A variant of the drainage device in the basement is shown in the following video.

Effective basement drainage allows you to get rid of flooding, protect the foundation from destruction and extend the life of the structure. For the installation of a drainage system, you can attract specialists or do all the work yourself, which will save on construction. A variant of the drainage method is recommended to be determined at the design stage in order to avoid additional costs for rework and facilitate the process of creating a system.

So you want your efforts not to be wasted, especially when it comes to building a house. It is important to assess in time all the weak points of the upcoming construction and take all measures to eliminate them. Every solid building has a basement. He is such a vulnerable spot. Groundwater, even with the correct determination of the depth of laying, during the period of fluctuations in their height, can cause flooding of the basement or basement of the house. Do-it-yourself drainage system inside the basement will help to avoid this.

Basement drainage scheme: 1. Soil. 2. The wall is brick. 3. Screed. 4. Drainage pump. 5. Foundation plate. 6. Internal drainage. 7. Ground base.8. Drainage pipes. 9. Finishing the wall with plasterboard. 10. Direction of water movement

The essence of the internal drainage system

The drainage system is a kind of structure designed to collect and remove excess moisture from groundwater or condensate from the basement of the house.

Basement waterproofing scheme with an equipped drainage system.

Drainage systems can have a different constructive expression, new variations appear constantly so that there is a choice in a certain situation. You can invent your own model and introduce amendments to the design if you know the basic elements of the drainage system. Drainage under the house consists of a system of pipes (drains), wells and pumps. Drainage pipes are the basis, they collect excess moisture through holes or joints and take it to the collection point - wells. With difficult natural outflow, submersible pumps are used, which are placed at the bottom of the wells - they force water out of the house. A mandatory principle in the construction of drainage is a slope towards the wells.

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List of materials and tools for arranging drainage

To get rid of excess moisture in the house or basement with your own hands, good building skills are very useful. The arrangement of a real drainage system inside the basement will require the procurement of materials and tools for installation work.

Tools:

level;
shovel;
bucket.

Materials:

drainage pipes;
PVC well;
drainage pump;
filter cloth;
gravel or crushed stone Ø10 mm;
geotextile;
sand.

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Preparatory work for the drainage system

Preparatory work for the arrangement of drainage in the basement or under the house can be carried out at the construction planning stage or in built facilities. The first option is the simplest and most favorable.

When planning construction on a site for a house, it is necessary to conduct a test drilling of the soil more than 5 m deep. This will help to find out the nature and composition of soils, the depth of occurrence groundwater and a layer of continental sands. Such work is quite possible to carry out independently with the help of a hand drill. Before laying the basement, it is necessary to make holes with a drill with a diameter of drilling blades and a depth to the occurrence of continental sands in each corner and one in the central part. Then they need to be securely covered with reinforced meshes that will help save the wells from falling asleep with soil. With the next flood, water rapidly flowing into any free space underground, including the cellar in the basement, will seep into the wells and sink to the level of sand. Sand can absorb a huge amount of water, as a result, groundwater will not be able to rise to the level of the basement.

The situation is a little more complicated if there is already a house with all the buildings on the site, and the composition of the soil and the parameters of its layers are not even known. In this case, preparation for the installation of drainage under the house begins with drilling a well in the immediate vicinity of the house. This will help to find out the level of groundwater under the building and the composition of the soil layers. You need to know the depth of the foundation, it is better to free it inner surface from the ground and check the condition of the seams. If the seams are not sealed, even a good drainage system will not solve the moisture problem.

Now we need to deal with the soil. The choice of materials for the drainage embankment, the length of the drainage channels in the basement and the size of the holes in them depend on the composition of the soil layer on the site. It will not be possible to make a correct assessment of the soil composition without the proper experience of a builder or road builder, so it is better to contact specialists. Alternatively, you can use the services of local construction companies that are engaged in similar work.

After that you need to draw detailed plan location of drainage channels, taking into account the information received about the properties of the soil composition, determine the location of the well, the degree of inclination of the pipe system and establish the need to purchase a submersible pump. Already according to the drawing, it is possible to determine in detail the required length of the drainage channels. Then you should decide on the type of drainage PVC pipes - now there are a lot of them on the market: corrugated, immediately equipped with perforations or stiffeners. With the help of a special leveling device, you can make marks on the walls of the basement, which will help maintain symmetry and align the system at the right angle. Determine the highest and lowest points of the drainage pipes. To determine the slope angle, you need to divide the length of the pipes by the difference between the highest and lowest points.

Before starting the installation, it remains only to prepare everything necessary tools and stock up building materials. The work ahead is not easy, and it must be done with high precision.

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Installation procedure

Equipping drainage inside the basement or in the cellar should begin with clearing the work surfaces. If there's flooring, it will have to be completely broken and removed from the room. All other things should also be taken out.

The next stage of construction consists in laying trenches, in which the network of drainage channels will be laid, you also need to dig a place for a well - with a small area, one is enough. The trench is dug manually with a shovel, it is convenient to carry out the soil in a simple bucket. The trench in the cellar should run along its perimeter along the walls, at a distance of no more than 0.5 m.

It is not important to set a certain shape for the bottom of the trench, but it is more convenient if it is semicircular. The depth of the ditch should be up to 0.5 m.

All inner part the bed for the channel should be well compacted, rammed so that after a while it does not sink. It is convenient to line the bottom of the channel with a special filter cloth, which will allow only clean water, and some will even delay. On top of the fabric, an even mound of gravel or gravel should be made, 20 cm will be enough.

We must not forget about the formation of a constant and uniform slope - it should not exceed 3 mm per 1 m of the pipeline length. It is necessary to lay the pipes of the training system on the rubble - it is better if they are made of PVC, since these elastic products do not deteriorate over time. On top of the pipes, it is necessary to make an embankment of a finer fraction of crushed stone in order to hide them completely. So that over time the shape of the embankment and trench is not distorted, the entire contents of the trench, together with crushed stone and drain, must be tightly covered with geotextile. The final layer will be a mound of sand, which will have to level the floor surface and bring it to its original state.

Basement drainage scheme.

Separately, it is worth considering the installation of the well, although it runs in parallel with the device of the entire system. The well is designed to drain and accumulate groundwater in it, so it’s easy to guess that it should be at the lowest point of the entire drainage system of the house. The well must have solid walls and a bottom. You can make it completely with your own hands - pour it in the finished concrete formwork or dig out a container and pour the concrete already in place. It is more convenient and easier to buy ready-made from the same materials as drains - PVC. The market offers a fairly wide range of polymer wells - their height is from 1.5 to 3 m and a diameter of up to 30 cm.

The required volume should be calculated individually, depending on the properties of the soil and the depth of groundwater. Before installation, you need to dig a hole, slightly larger in volume than the well itself, and lower it there. Then tightly cover the empty wall spaces near the well with earth and tamp the earth around it. After conducting all the drainage channels in one well. If a specialized PVC system has been purchased, installation will be simple and will not take much time.

It will be difficult enough to remove a pipe from the basement, which will be below it in level, so that the water flows out by gravity. That is why a submersible pump is often provided in the well. A special drainage pump is equipped with a suction pump and a float switching system, that is, the float is constantly on the surface of the water. When the float rises too high, it closes the contacts and starts the motor. The activated motor activates the pump that pumps out the water.

A drop in the water level lowers the float and opens the motor contacts, the pump stops pumping water.

Separately, a pipeline should be provided that will drain the accumulated groundwater from the well in the basement to the outside. As a rule, a small-diameter PVC pipe is carried out from the well through the foundation or under it into the storm water drain.

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Stone cellar.

The relief of the site is determined.

hammers;
Screwdriver Set;
nails;
screws different sizes;
measuring tape.

Master OK.
Construction level.
Square.
Pick.

From special:

Metal trough.
Concrete mixer.
Apparatus for welding.

Construction Materials:

Cement.
Crushed stone.
Sand.
Clay.
Boards.

How to dig a pit

Tip: If the cellar is in the barn: a convenient option for a small plot of land

Execute wall construction.

How to make a cellar floor

Wall construction features

When brickwork the walls of the cellar are finished, you can start the installation of the ceiling, form the entrance to the room. How and from which brick to build a cellar shows the video well. => Brick Cellar In The Garage By Yourself: Detailed Guide => => publish => open => closed => => iz-kirpicha-pogreb-63 => => => 2019-03-31 02:23:30 = > 2019-03-30 22:23:30 => => 0 =>?p=1103 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index,follow)) => 1 => -1 => => WP_Post Object ( => 1103 => 2 => 2015-07-02 19:56:30 => 2015-07-02 15:56:30 => Brick walls Do-it-yourself brick cellar is a dream of many owners of their houses and plots.Despite the fact that you can use the most different types materials, but brick has long been considered the most popular of them. This is due to its high strength, moisture resistance, frost resistance, excellent adhesion to cement-based mortar. By observing all the rules and regulations for the construction of a red brick cellar, you can get a strong structure that will not be destroyed for a long time. How brickwork is done for walls in the cellar is proposed to be found in this article.

Features of brick construction

In modern cellars, it is possible to create an optimal microclimate, where fresh vegetables and home-canned products are well preserved. For their construction are used various materials and so we can have:

Stone cellar.

But the most popular, environmentally friendly and with sufficient strength is ordinary red brick. It is not necessary to be a professional to build a cellar from it. It is enough to know the basics and basic skills of working with construction tools. A well-built cellar should have good thermal and waterproofing. There must be a constant supply fresh air to maintain the desired temperature and humidity. Under such conditions, products long time remain fresh, do not rot and retain all their taste qualities well.

How to choose a building site

The first and most important stage of construction is the correct choice of the place where the building will be erected. A do-it-yourself cellar made of bricks can be placed under an existing structure or placed separately. When building a cellar, the instruction suggests paying attention to some important points:

The dimensions of the basement are selected, depending on the needs of the family and the range of vegetables and fruits that are planned to be stored in it. The same factor is taken into account when calculating the amount of materials. Usually the basement is made up to two meters deep. The choice of flooring directly depends on the type of soil. Construction in summer is considered the most suitable period when groundwater is at its lowest point, which is very important when constructing a structure in an open area.
The level of groundwater is taken into account, which affects the depth of the cellar. In this case, the lower boundary of the basement should be 50 cm above this level.
The relief of the site is determined.

Tip: If the area where the cellar is planned allows you to place the device on a hillside, this the best way, which must be used, which will reduce the amount of excavation.

The type of soil is determined. Its different type implies the manufacture of various slopes when digging a pit. The type of soil plays into the drainage device.
Influence of soil freezing depth in winter.
Good waterproofing is very important. Water absolutely should not enter the cellar, which will allow you to keep food well.

The construction of a brick cellar is recommended to be carried out in the most elevated and dry place. If the cellar is not made under residential building or a garage, you should not build it close to other outbuildings, which will help prevent their possible collapse, which is caused by construction work.

What materials and tools are needed for construction

For building a cellar, brick is an ideal option. But there are several varieties of it, of which some fit well, while others are better to replace:

The silicate brick does not tolerate moisture well; the cellar built from it will not last long.
Cinder blocks and foam blocks will quickly collapse, so it is better not to use them when building a storage facility.
The ideal material for the cellar is burnt red brick. It is distinguished by ease of processing, durability and increased resistance to moisture.
Can be used in the construction of foundation concrete blocks, but their big weight does not allow easy work without an assistant.

Before bricking the cellar, you will need the following equipment and tools:

Standard set of construction tools:

hammers;
Screwdriver Set;
nails;
screws of different sizes;
measuring tape.

Screwdriver and other devices that will facilitate manual labor during construction.

For brickwork you will need:

Master OK.
Construction level.
Square.
Each worker on a shovel.
Pick.

From special:

Metal trough.
Concrete mixer.
Apparatus for welding.

Construction Materials:

Red brick in the right amount.
Cement.
Crushed stone.
Sand.
Clay.
Boards.
For the ventilation device, two pipes are plastic or asbestos-cement, with a diameter of 20 centimeters.
Rolled metal and metal fittings.

How to dig a pit

After establishing the location of the building, earthworks can begin. The size of the future cellar and the proximity of neighboring buildings determine the possibility of using an excavator or digging a pit manually with a shovel.

Tip: If the cellar is located under a house or other outbuilding (see Cellar in a barn: a convenient option for a small plot of land), it is better to provide for it even at the foundation construction stage. Otherwise, during its construction, work with a jackhammer will be required.

The construction of a cellar resembles the technology of building a house. After digging a pit, you should do:

Execute wall construction.
Organize the ceiling and ventilation system.

When digging a pit, the type of soil should be taken into account to calculate the steepness of the slopes.

How to make a cellar floor

After the excavation of the pit is completed, the flooring can begin. The features of the process are:

It should well protect the room from the inside from moisture, have a smooth and comfortable surface.
Before laying the floor, the bottom of the pit is carefully leveled with a shovel.
The joints of the walls and the floor should not have crumbled earth.
To remove excess moisture, crushed stone or gravel crumbs are poured to the bottom of the pit, with a layer thickness of up to 20 centimeters.
A mixture of oily clay and water is prepared until a homogeneous thick consistency is obtained.
The solution is carefully poured onto the rubble, while the clay should evenly cover the entire drainage pad.

Tip: When small sizes cellars, dry soil and deep groundwater, a clay floor will be enough. But to increase the life of the building and maximize efficiency, squeak harvested crop from dampness and spoilage, it is better to additionally fill the floor with concrete, and, if necessary, reinforce it. The concrete floor will become a solid and reliable basis for the construction of brickwork walls.

To knead a concrete solution, it is necessary to take cement and sand at a ratio of one to five, but this value depends on the brand of cement. It is easier to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer.
On top of the concrete base, if desired, flooring can be arranged, but only if the cellar is large and is used not only as a vegetable store, but is a multifunctional basement.
Flooring should be done after finishing the walls and ceiling, which will prevent their damage or damage.
After pouring the floor, it is necessary to wait 1-2 weeks until the concrete is completely dry.
The formwork for the foundation is being prepared from the boards, on which the walls will be erected.
The width of the brickwork is usually from one to 1.5 bricks.
The concrete used for pouring the floor should be formed into a regular strip foundation, protruding 20 centimeters above the floor.
With a deep cellar, when there is a significant load on the foundation, more aggregate can be added to the concrete solution.
The foundation should dry, and you can start bricklaying.

Tip: The brickwork of the walls in the cellar should be carried out after leveling the earthen walls of the pit. Bumps and protruding roots should not be here. This is especially true when excavating with an excavator. The foundation must be cleared.

Wall construction features

In order to determine which brick to lay over the cellar, one should pay attention to red brick, although its price is somewhat higher than usual. The walls of a good basement must have sufficient strength and durability. In addition, red brick is environmentally friendly, a material with excellent thermal insulation properties. When using it indoors, you can create optimal microclimatic conditions, which is very important to observe in order to preserve fresh vegetables and homemade preparations. Features of bricklaying are as follows:

A brick is laid out in a checkerboard pattern with simple masonry.
Its width is made in one brick or one and a half.
For a strong adhesion of bricks, the mortar is prepared in a ratio of 1 to 4 from a mixture of cement and sand. Cement is better for such work to choose the brand M400.
At the same time, a semi-liquid solution is prepared, consisting of oily clay. They fill the space between the earthen wall and the brickwork, which forms a "clay castle", which additionally protects the walls from excess moisture.
Clay is laid as the wall is built.
You need to think about the location in advance ventilation pipes, they are laid immediately upon laying.

The technology for building a brick wall is as follows:

The brick row should start from the corner or from the doorway, provided that the entrance to the basement is on the side.

The beginning of the construction of the walls of the cellar of bricks

Between the two extreme bricks you need to stretch the rope, with which you can control the evenness of the row. Gradually the cord moves up.
A trowel takes a portion of the mortar, which is applied to the foundation and a brick is laid on top.
With a trowel handle, it is tapped from above, and then, if necessary, adjusted with the same blow close to the corner or the previous brick. It is necessary to ensure that the masonry is even and dense. Using a plumb line, the correct position of the corners is checked, and each element from all sides is checked with a level. The upper plane of the wall must be absolutely flat, without distortions.
After completing the brick row, the gap between the earthen wall and the bricks should be well filled with clay. Clay should not fall on top of the bricks. When large gaps are formed between the elements, broken fragments are added to the clay.
The second row must be started, like the previous one, but take not a whole brick, but a half. The checkerboard order of the masonry ensures a sufficiently high resistance of the future wall. The photo shows an example of the construction of brick basement walls.

Brick cellar wall construction

Tip: With a sufficiently large size of the future structure, it is better to provide for the installation of several additional columns that will support the ceiling. Such supporting elements are laid out in three bricks in the center of the basement. The height of the columns should correspond to the walls, they serve to support the ceiling.

After the completion of the construction of walls and columns, a pause is made until the solution is completely dry. The masonry should be well settled and firmly grasped.
The advantages of brick walls include their long service life without major repairs.

When the brickwork of the cellar walls is completed, you can start the flooring device, form the entrance to the room. How and from which brick to build a cellar shows the video well. => Brick Cellar In The Garage By Yourself: Detailed Guide => => publish => open => closed => => iz-kirpicha-pogreb-63 => => => 2019-03-31 02:23:30 = > 2019-03-30 22:23:30 => => 0 =>?p=1103 => 0 => post => => 4 => raw => index,follow) => 0 => -1 = > 386 => 386 => 0 => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => => 1 => => = > => => => => => => => => => => => Array ( => query_vars_hash => query_vars_changed) => Array ( => init_query_flags => parse_tax_query))