How to make a door from boards with your own hands: types of doors and several detailed ways on how to make a door yourself. Making interior doors with your own hands Do-it-yourself front door made of plywood wood

16.06.2019

Manufacturing interior doors in a home workshop, the process is fun and creative. In the presence of necessary tools and materials, the simplest door is assembled in two to three hours. More complex structures, combining practicality with design sophistication, are assembled in two or three days. Doors decorated artistic carving, stained glass windows or forging elements, only the most diligent and patient can do.

Manufacturing technology of interior doors

The production of doors on an industrial scale is put on the conveyor. The programmed robotic assembly machines are capable of producing several high quality products per minute. In fact, such units are prototypes of narrow-focus 3D printers. Door blocks are stamped from any material and can have any required dimensions... Large production associations integrate several wood processing industries. This is partly due to low price the final product.

But if you disassemble technological process into its component parts, it turns out that it is quite possible to recreate it at home. Main share financial costs and labor falls on the installation of the door leaf and only 5-8% - on the assembly door frame... Some handcrafted doors are superior to factory-made doors, especially when inlaid artistic decoration... Until now, masters have survived who produce real masterpieces in small private workshops. Their doors are distinguished by their sophistication and durability.

Despite the high cost, the doors self made are in great demand

The only condition required for this is the use quality materials... It is quite difficult to get them at home. This primarily concerns drying. The moisture content of the wood should not exceed 10–12%, which cannot be achieved without a special dryer.

Achieve wood moisture content in the range of 8-12% is possible only under factory conditions

The timber is connected with glue and internal mini-tenons

Self-production of a door block consists of several stages.

Drafting a project that meets specific conditions. It reflects the dimensions of the doorway, the design of the door (swing, sliding or pendulum), the material available, door fittings.
A detailed drawing shows the door unit in several projections, indicating all dimensions and decorative elements
Manufacturing of a door leaf. It is necessary to decide and prepare the required amount of the selected material - wooden planks, plywood or MDF.
Door frame manufacturing. As a rule, at home, a door frame is made of a wooden bar.
Selection of fasteners for assembly. Confirmants, screws, wood glue, dowels ( wooden nails), etc. To enhance the rigidity of the structure, it is possible to use additional elements - metal brackets, corners and similar parts.
The dimensions and shape of the fasteners are selected based on the tasks

Video: production technology of interior doors

Calculations and drawings for the manufacture of interior doors

Before preparing the necessary materials, the door area is calculated. The total area of the door leaf is the product of the height by the width: S = a b, where S is the area, a is the width, b is the height of the door. For convenience, a reduced-scale drawing is drawn up. The real dimensions of the doorway are applied to the plan, and the dimensions of the door block are calculated taking into account the technological gaps along the sash perimeter.

When drawing up a working drawing, any convenient scale is used

It should be borne in mind that a minimum of 2.5–3 cm of free space is required between the frame and the wall. It is thanks to this gap that the door can be aligned horizontally and vertically inside the opening.

The thicker the door leaf, the more gaps need to be left

For example, if the hole in the wall is 1 m in width and 2.05 m in height, the dimensions of the door block are extreme points will be:

width 100 - 6 = 94 cm;
height 205 - 6 = 199 cm.

If we take into account that the frame is assembled from a bar, then to determine the dimensions of the canvas, it is necessary to subtract the thickness of the bar plus 6 mm (3 mm on each side). Let's say that the door frame is a 60 mm wide bar. This means that the width of the door leaf will be 94 - 2 6 - 2 · 0.3 = 94 - 12 - 0.6 = 81.4 cm.

The vertical size is calculated in the same way. The only amendment is the height of the door leaf above the floor. It can be made from 3-4 to 10 mm. The air ventilation between rooms is regulated with the help of the lower gap.

Video: DIY door frame assembly

Step-by-step instructions for making an interior door

The paneled door consists of a frame made of solid wood. The inner plane is replaced by some kind of decorative finishing material (but it can also be natural). Fastening is carried out using spikes and grooves, but sometimes installation using glazing beads is also practiced.

Equipment and tools

Today, a hand-held electric tool is in the arsenal of any craftsman. Therefore, door assembly is not a difficult task. If any of the devices listed below are not available, you can always rent it for a few days. This will save money and have a positive effect on the quality of the final product.

Manual router with a set of router bits. With its help, grooves are milled for installing hinges and locks. It is desirable to have several small diameter cutters for cutting smoothly rounded recesses and a long cutter for the key slot. When making a panel door, using a milling cutter, grooves are cut out for installing the panel, and decorative elements are also made.
A set of standard cutters allows you to make a selection of grooves for fittings
Circular saw with a disc for cutting wood. Cutting of materials is carried out using a special ruler included in the kit.
The ruler allows you to make even cuts according to the specified dimensions
Electric drill with a set of drills of various diameters. With additional attachments, the drill functions as a screwdriver.
Grinder (angle grinder) and grinding wheels. To polish and grind parts, you need three types of sandpaper: grades 40, 80 and 120. Processing begins with a rough "peeling" and ends with a fine selection of wood texture.
Sandpaper is attached to the work table with Velcro
Measuring tools. Tape measure or ruler, square, vernier caliper, hydraulic level or building level for installing the door, pencil, marker.

In addition, common hand tools are required:

Materials (edit)

At the disposal of craftsmen today, a huge variety of materials, the price of which is quite affordable. You can choose them for every taste and color, from the simplest waterproof plywood or laminated fiberboard to natural oak or mahogany boards.

Here we will consider an example of making an interior paneled door with a swing structure. This is the most time consuming option in terms of preparation of component parts. Having figured out the principle of assembling such a door, you will be able to install door blocks from other materials without any difficulties.

When procurement of material, you should pay attention to the following points.

Lumber moisture. Even well-dried wood, being in a humid environment, absorbs moisture. Store materials in a dry, ventilated area at room temperature.
When exposed to sunlight, the surface quickly darkens and becomes gray. It is advisable to protect the workpieces from direct exposure to ultraviolet radiation.
Under mechanical stress, chips and dents are formed on the surface of the wood, which are difficult to sand. Boards prepared for the door leaf must be protected from impacts and bends.

For a door with a leaf width of 70-80 cm, you will need such materials.

6 running meters dry boards with a thickness of 35 to 40 mm, preferably grooved, without a large number knots, resin pockets and cracks. Healthy knots are allowed no more than one per 30–40 cm. Signs of wood defects are blue or pink spots on the front or end surface, such boards are rejected. The optimal width is 10-15 cm.
Grooved boards are sold with a planed surface, which greatly facilitates their processing
Laminated chipboard for the manufacture of panels. The color is selected according to the texture of the wood, but other options are possible depending on taste preferences. Some craftsmen use different shades to create a certain contrast. Chipboard thickness - 16-18 mm. The panel area is calculated in advance according to the design drawings. Sometimes waste from cladding panels of the desired size is used.
A wide range of colors of laminated chipboard simplifies the decoration of the door leaf

When dry, PVA glue becomes transparent, which is why it is widely used in furniture production

Euroscrew, confirmant, or one-piece screed.
Thanks to the form of the screw thread, the one-piece cable ties firmly together the wood parts
Varnish or water-based paint for finishing.
The quality of the varnish is determined by its resistance to external influences

Do-it-yourself wood door

At the first stage, preparatory work is carried out.

Processing of boards. Gross defects are removed from the surface. Planed boards are sanded with emery No. 40 or 80, depending on their condition. Grinding with a grinder attachment does not take much time. However, this work is dusty, so to ensure safety, it is better to use a respirator and a vacuum cleaner or go outside.
Grinding boards with a grinder is best done outdoors, in an open space.
The details of the frame of the door leaf are cut. These include two vertical and three horizontal posts. To do this, use a circular saw. All cuts are kept strictly at 90 °, then carefully chamfer the outer edges. If the corner joints are diagonal, the uprights and crossbars are cut at a 45 ° angle.
Cut out the panel details. Dimensions are taken from the drawing. A square is used for proper cutting.
All parts are cut in accordance with the calculated dimensions in the drawing

Then milling work is performed.

On the inner ends of the boards, grooves with a depth of 20 mm are cut. A margin of a few millimeters will provide the ability to adjust the position of the panel. The recess is located strictly in the middle of the end of the frame. Width - Thickness laminated chipboard with a permissible backlash of 0.5 mm.
The groove is taken out by a cutter with a large working diameter.
Hinge and lock grooves are selected. To evenly distribute the load, it is customary to place the hinges at a distance of 20–25 cm from the corners of the door. The lock is cut at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor (if, of course, it is provided). A cylindrical cutter is made through hole for installation doorknob(100-110 cm from the floor).
Small chamfers are removed at the ends of the panels. This will make it easy to assemble the structure into a single whole.
The chamfer is removed in the form of a smooth rounding
When all the parts are ready, they are pre-assembled. In this case, a mallet is used, but without strong blows - in such a way that the door will have to be disassembled again. The "tight" places are determined. Where necessary, adjustments are made with a file or a sharp chisel. It is important to respect the geometry of the door leaf. After assembly, the parameters are carefully measured: length, width and diagonals of the rectangle. Throughout the entire canvas, they should have the same values. Right angles are controlled with a square.
The door leaf is disassembled, the parts are sanded. It is necessary to achieve uniform texture, smoothness and color.
Final assembly is in progress. The panel is set on PVA glue, which is applied to the grooves. The corners of the door frame are fastened with confirmants. It is necessary to maintain a certain time for the glue to dry. For this period, it is advisable to tighten the entire structure with clamps.
Clamps will fix the shape of the door while the glue dries

After that, it is necessary to give the doors the planned appearance. Most often, such structures are coated with water-based varnish. However, different stains can be used to give the wood the desired color.

An insert made of laminated chipboard saves money and at the same time decorates the door. The outer surface, covered with a waterproof film, washes well, does not collect dust. The material copes well with the task of sound and thermal insulation of the room.

DIY plywood door

If making a paneled door seems difficult to you, there are simpler options. self assembly interior doors. For example, it can be made from moisture resistant plywood. For this it is used wooden bar(preferably glued) with dimensions of 0.5 x 0.25 cm. Plywood is selected with a thickness of 0.5–0.7 mm.

The assembly is carried out as follows.

The frame of the door leaf is mounted from wooden bars. In the inner part, to increase the rigidity of the sash, one to four transverse beams are added.
The frame of the canvas is a regular rectangle with stiffening ribs
A sheet is cut from a whole piece of plywood in the shape of a frame. You can sew up the canvas in pieces, but for this you need to place the inner crossbars at the junction of the sheets.
The space inside the doors is filled with insulation or sound-absorbing material. In this role, you can use mineral wool, polystyrene foam, foam rubber, or even dry scattering of foam balls. In order for the filler to be evenly distributed over the cavity of the canvas, the door is placed in a horizontal position.
Scraps of mineral wool can serve as a filler for an interior door.
Sew up the other side of the sash in the same way. Plywood is secured with nails or screws. To prevent the formation of cracks around the perimeter, the door is coated with glue.
Finish the canvas. In this capacity, all kinds of self-adhesive films, paints and varnishes or sheets of decorative veneer are used.
When finishing an interior door made of plywood with a flooring laminate, the perimeter of the door is reinforced with screws or rivets

Fittings are cut in as usual.

The only thing that should not be forgotten is that all components are attached to a "solid" base, that is, to the transverse elements of the door frame.

The hinges are mounted in recesses made in plywood.

An interesting solution exterior decoration the interior door is the use of laminate flooring. High durability characteristics make the door very durable and invulnerable to mechanical damage(scratches, chips, etc.). Laminate is selected with a small thickness (up to 6 mm), so as not to overly burden the hinges. Assembly is carried out with glue or decorative screws with wide heads.

How to make a box for an interior door

The dimensions of the door frame are influenced by the dimensions:

All three parameters must be combined in such a way that the frame is freely, with a margin of 2.5–3 cm, located inside the opening. And at the same time, the door leaf placed inside the frame must have a gap of 2.5 to 4 mm. The calculation, as a rule, is done based on the dimensions of the canvas, if it is already ready. A board with a thickness of 35 to 60 mm is selected. Naturally, the thicker the door frame, the stronger and more reliable it is.

Consider specific example... Let's say the width of the door leaf is 80 cm.

To determine inner size boxes, you need to add another 6 mm (2-3 mm) to 80 cm - you get 806 mm.
Taking into account the thickness of the board, we calculate the outer dimensions of the door frame. For a workpiece with a thickness of 50 mm, add 4 cm, since 1 cm will be spent on making a quarter. We get 806 + 40 = 846 mm.

The thickness of the frame is usually tied to the depth of the doorway (wall thickness). In practice, this value ranges from 70 mm to 125 mm (brick thickness).

Having finished with the calculations, we proceed to making the box.

The workpiece is planed with front side, grinded and polished.
The shape of the groove is marked in which the door leaf will be in the closed position. The depth is equal to the thickness of the door leaf. The reference plane is made with a width of 10 to 12 mm.
If you plan to equip the frame with a rubber seal, an additional groove is cut out for its installation
A quarter is cut out. To do this, you need to adjust the depth of cut in the circular saw. First, a deep cut is made, then a shallow one. A smooth passage is carried out using a ruler attached to the end of the circular to the desired width.
The quarter is selected with a circular saw
A quarter is sanded and leveled with a chisel to a perfect condition for painting.
A U-shaped frame is assembled. The connection is made either with screws or by cutting a spike on the top bar and sidewalls. In the latter case, additional brackets are used to increase the rigidity of the connection.
Studded frame connection requires precise fit of parts

The frame is ready. You can install it in a doorway.

Video: making a door frame

Finishing the slopes of interior doors

Slopes are the plane of the wall of the doorway, which cannot be closed with platbands. Many ways have been invented to refine this wall gap. The most common ones are:

plastering with cement-sand mortar;
cladding with MDF panel extensions;
plasterboard finishing.

Plastering of slopes

Plastering is, of course, the most time consuming method. In addition, it takes time to prepare the wall and dry the mortar. But such slopes have one indisputable advantage - they are durable, are not afraid of blows and strengthen the door frame well. For those who value the strength and reliability of the doorway, we list the stages of the formation of slopes.

Support beacons and corners are installed. As a rule, ready-made hardware, which are today in every hardware store. The price for them is quite affordable. The outdoor corner is slightly more expensive, but also within reach. Beacons are mounted along the perimeter of the door frame, metal corners are mounted along the perimeter of the wall. You can fix them with alabaster or a stapler.
The primer increases the adhesion of the plaster to the wall
A solution is being prepared. The dry mixture is poured into a mixing container (bucket, trough, etc.) and thoroughly mixed with a mixer. The final state of the solution is the consistency of thick sour cream.
With a trowel, throw the solution onto the surface of the wall and level it. When the volume is completely filled, a rule or a wide spatula is pulled along the beacons. Thus, the plane of the slope is formed. Work begins on the side surfaces, the vertical plane is filled in last. Mix the top bar solution thicker so that it does not run down.
A paint corner with a grid is used to level the plaster
After the mixture has hardened (about 24 hours), the surface is applied finishing putty fine consistency. For this, spatulas are used. As a result, the surface is brought out to an even and smooth state.
The installation of the slopes is completed by grinding and painting. Emery paper, fixed on a flat bar, removes all irregularities and roughness. The paint is applied in several layers. Before painting, the slopes are covered with a primer.
To protect the surface of the doors when plastering the slopes, use a polyethylene film

Video: how to plaster the slopes in the interior opening

MDF paneling

Another way to arrange slopes is to install MDF panels. This is the fastest "dry" option. For its implementation, ready-made panels are needed, matched to the color of the door frame and door leaf. You can fix them different ways, the easiest way is to install it in the grooves of the frame. But since we are considering the option of making doors on our own, there will be no grooves in it. In this case, the installation is applied to:

glue;
wooden or metal frame;
dowels.

Let's make a reservation right away that the adhesive is, again, polyurethane foam, which has universal properties. The frame is constructed on rare occasions when the opening is much thicker (or wider) than the door frame. Dowels, on the other hand, are a universal option, but in need of additional decorative revision. The screw caps must either be hidden in a secret, or closed with plastic plugs.

When facing slopes with docks on the frame, they are used metal profiles for drywall

Let us explain with an example and describe the installation of extensions on polyurethane foam... The order of work is as follows.

Video: installation of door accessories, the most detailed description

Plasterboard slopes

The course of facing the doorway with plasterboard is similar to the installation of additional panels. The only difference is that instead of polyurethane foam, special glue for gypsum boards is used. The dry mixture is diluted to a thick consistency and applied to the wall in islands every 15–20 cm. A sheet of moisture-resistant drywall, cut to size in advance, is glued to the wall. After the glue dries, the surface of the gypsum board is putty, security metal corners are installed in the corners.

Video: making slopes from gypsum plasterboard

Installation of casing for an interior door

There are several ways to install platbands, depending on the design. The most progressive is considered to be fastening in grooves. But for this it is necessary that a corresponding recess be cut on the box itself. At self-production doors are an additional and time-consuming operation. Therefore, most often the platband is attached to glue (foam) or invisible nails.

In addition to the fasteners, it is necessary to choose the method of connecting the vertical posts with the horizontal bar. There are two options here:

It is believed that the first method is easier, and the second is more aesthetically pleasing.

For installation of platbands, craftsmen use a miter box - a device that allows you to make cuts at right and acute angles. Since the shape of the clypeus can be quite complex (from a flat to a convex-concave surface), one cannot do without a miter box.

The miter box allows you to cut even corners when preparing platbands

The procedure is usually as follows.

Installation of platbands on polyurethane foam is carried out in the same manner. Only instead of nails, polyurethane foam is used, which is applied in a thin layer to the glued surfaces.

Video: do-it-yourself installation of platbands on interior doors

When making an interior door with your own hands, remember the elementary safety standards. The use of a high speed power tool always carries the risk of injury. To avoid electric shock, it is strongly recommended to work only with functional electrical appliances. Use protective goggles and a respirator when covering doors with varnish or paint.

Making plywood doors with your own hands is not as difficult as many people think. Yes, and this activity is very inexpensive and will save the family's budget on buying ready-made doors. Plywood can be used to make both entrance and interior doors, including sliding ones. How to do this will be described and shown in this article.

Instrument preparation

Everyone can make a door out of plywood with their own hands, but for this it is necessary to acquire not only sheet material, but also special tools and equipment. To create a simple panel board version of the doors, you will need the following materials:

Bar 3000x45x20 mm (5 pcs.).
Rail 50x30 mm.
Waterproof plywood of grade FSF 3/3 grade (coniferous). Sheet parameters 1220x2440x9 mm.
Insulation (for the entrance structure) or just filler (expanded polystyrene).
Self-tapping screws 30x3 mm (about 200 pcs.).
PVA glue for construction.
Putty for wood products or acrylic based sealant for wood.
Dye.

You will also need various tools:

Sandpaper;
Spatulas;
Brushes;
Masking tape;
Hand or electric circular saw;
Jigsaw;
For decoration, you may need a miter box and a milling machine;
Screwdrivers, screwdriver.
Ruler, pencil.

Making a plywood front door

First of all, you need to create a drawing, then make a door casing, for this you need a block. The easiest way is to make a U-shaped structure for a doorway, the diagram of which is presented below. After that, you can proceed to creating a frame for future doors from a rail. Connecting lintels can also be made for plywood sheets.

You can connect all the pieces of the rail using screws - this is the easiest way that does not take much time. Then, using the centering, we make a sweat and fasten the prepared plywood to the frame with screws. Each fastener is spaced 20 cm apart.

Note! Sweep under the putty is done in such a way as to hide the head of the self-tapping screw to a depth of 1 mm, if a wooden plug is supposed, then 3 mm.

We cut the plywood under the frame with a saw (manual or electric).

Now we need to insulate our door. To do this, you need to put mineral wool or other insulation inside. This will relieve and retain heat from extraneous sounds from the outside.

We fasten the second sheet of plywood on top, thereby closing the insulation. The door itself is ready. Decorating can be done with a hand router.

Now you can sand the surface with a machine, and then with sandpaper (120 grit). The drawing is polished exclusively by hand.

All possible defects and holes must be filled.

There were only decorative measures, cutting in locks and handles, priming the structure and painting it.

How to make such doors out of plywood with your own hands is shown in the video in more detail.

Creating a sliding plywood interior door

As internal partition in the house, you can make a sliding door from plywood with your own hands. To do this, you need guides, which can be purchased at a hardware store. Choose the length you need for your room and doorway. Basically, they already come with the mechanism, but if not, then you need to purchase the mechanism.

Note! The rollers in the mechanism are made of steel, rather than rubber ones, more durable.

The plywood partition will come out light and to create it you will need besides sheet material more wood slats and glazing beads. We make a frame for the future partition from the slats, which is connected by means of glue and spikes. In the already finished frame, you need to fix the plywood sheets with glazing beads and that's it, the structure is ready.

Only the decorative side of the process remains. Whatever you want, you can glue a special decorative film over the plywood, you can cover it with a cloth or just open it with varnish, and also paint it. You can create a more complex structure with inserts from other materials: plastic, glass, etc.

Important!When calculating materials to create sliding doors it must be remembered that it is recommended to make the canvas 5-7 cm wider than the opening, and also 10-15 cm higher in height, unless of course the opening is for the entire height of the room. This is to avoid the appearance of large gaps around the perimeter.

Manufacturing of a single-layer interior door

This design is suitable for living quarters, utility rooms, in which sound and heat insulation is not needed. It is a timber frame structure with strips nailed across and a plywood sheet. Any grade of 1-2 grade plywood is suitable for a single-layer door, so that there are fewer defects and chips on its surface.

You can also choose the thickness of the plywood at your discretion from 3 to 21 mm. If the room is humid, then you can purchase moisture resistant sheets. The laminated material will not require subsequent decorative finishing. The main thing when choosing is not to take plywood, which is made using phenol-formaldehyde adhesive mixtures.

The creation of the structure itself is similar to a combination of the two previous procedures, that is, the frame and the door itself are made as a sliding door, only a lock and a handle are cut into it, and hinges are also hung, as is the case with the entrance structure.

There is also a variant of a multi-layer plywood door, an example is the entrance structure presented above, where heat-insulating material is still laid between the layers of plywood. This door can also be installed in a steam room. But in this case, it is imperative to use a moisture-resistant material.

Modern doors can be made from a wide variety of materials, but wood undoubtedly remains unrivaled.

Until now, wooden products remain the most demanded and popular.

They can be entrance, interroom, for a house, a barn, and outbuildings.

Wood remains a favorite material due to its environmental friendliness, warmth, beautiful natural texture.

Before deciding which door you need, you need to decide for which room it is intended.

In fact, most of the doors, both expensive elite and the simplest, are made of boards: but this material is processed differently and may have different quality... Different types of wood also have very different functional characteristics.

Door leaves can also be subdivided according to the type of construction, of which there are several:

massive,
paneled,
panel board (solid and hollow),

Let's consider their quality characteristics in more detail.

Massive

A well-made construction has a rather aesthetic appearance. If you veneer it with natural veneer, it will look like a solid wood door.

Shield doors are different:

solid,
small-hollow,
hollow.

What are the differences between them?

In the first, the entire space inside is filled with an unedged timber fastened to each other, in the second, such filling is only partially completed, while the third consist only of external sheathing and strapping.

A hollow panel door usually consists of a pair of side and two transverse (lower and upper) beams, sheathed with fiberboard or other materials.

Often, vertical and horizontal crossbars are inserted inside such a structure to enhance its rigidity. Such a product can be considered a frame.

Shield shallow-hollow structures are filled inside various materials(cardboard, plates, foam and even shavings), and the degree of this filling can also be different.

Solid doors are those that represent a kind of shield, made of well-fastened together. It can be either edged or unedged.

The frame of the panel door is veneered on both sides: for this, fibreboard, laminate, melamine or veneer are used. If high quality plywood with a pleasant textured pattern is used for cladding, such a door can be trimmed with profiled linings.

If you need a panel door improved quality, then it is better to veneer it with plywood made of alder or linden, laid in one or two 2-3 mm layers.

The material from these rocks does not undergo deformation, being a solid base for subsequent finishing. Its role can be played by special plywood for decoration, made of valuable wood species.

Fiber direction decorative coating should be perpendicular to the guides of the glued layer.

Often, instead of plywood, natural veneer from noble species is attached to the glued layer. All its layers, which can be from three to five, are placed perpendicular to the previous ones.

The end sides of the shield itself must be solid and even. Therefore, if the door does not have a frame, then high-quality, even bars are used for them, corresponding to the texture and color of the finish of other surfaces of the canvas. The end beams are connected to the shield with glue and pins.

Such products can play the role of interior doors, but can also be used as entrance doors. But protection at such doors is completely absent, therefore, for the role of entrance doors, they are more suitable as apartment doors, in a warm, closed entrance.

Making doors with your own hands

The right choice of wood

The preliminary, but very crucial stage of this event is the competent choice of sawn timber.

You should approach it with all responsibility, impartially assess financial capabilities, decide on the species and type of wood, and choose the right material.

Door boards must comply with the following:

they should not have at all or have a minimum number of knots;
indicators of their moisture content should not exceed 12-15 percent. Preferred material, and then processed in special drying chambers. Drying in them provides the material with strength and resistance to;
boards should be flat. To check this indicator, you need to put them on a flat surface and determine the density of their sidewalls closing;
makes for interior doors from 2.5 cm, for entrance 5 cm;
before use, the material must be well sanded with a special machine or sandpaper.

Both deciduous and coniferous wood are suitable. For front doors it is good to use beech or oak. For interroom, it is quite possible to do with pine. The resinousness of coniferous varieties prevents the appearance of fungal diseases and decay.

Tools

Any type of wooden door requires a large, stable workbench and quality tools:

manual milling cutter;
hacksaw;
different chisels;
level;
and sandpaper;
clamps;
hand and bow saw;
regular and rubber hammer;
ruler, meter, tape measure, pencil;

You will also need wood glue, self-tapping screws and sheet piling"Thorn-groove".

Let us explain that a manual router will help to make the door leaf smooth. They can cut the necessary grooves and holes, process the spatula, straighten corners and much more. Thanks to this device, a handmade product can look professional.

Step-by-step instruction

Consider how to independently build a door from grooved boards.

First, we need to make the door leaf.

The prepared boards must be marked and cut. We lay them out on the table so that the annual rings are in the same direction.

The tongue-and-groove boards are assembled into a continuous sheet with the help of a lock connection. For reliability, the elements are glued with wood glue. A spike is cut off from the extreme board of the resulting shield, the butt is carefully processed. Clamps tighten the canvas and allow it to dry on a flat surface.

After complete drying, the surface is milled and sanded.

In some cases, a reinforced door structure is made.

To do this, collect it from several plank layers. Shields are glued perpendicularly. The result is a powerful and heavy door leaf that can be used as an entrance door to a house or a bathhouse. This technology is used when they plan to decorate the finished product with a relief pattern.

In order for the element to fit well into the groove, it is better to make the crossbars a trapezoidal shape. On the canvas, the locations of the crossbars are marked, the desired depth of the groove is noted (usually a third or half of the thickness of the board).

Cut the grooves, coat them with glue and insert the finished crossbars into them with a rubber hammer or mallet.

Decorating

The next step will be processing and

It would seem that the times of scarcity have passed, and in the presence of cash or non-cash, it is not a problem to purchase an interior or front door. But there are people who are interested in the question of how to make a door with their own hands from plywood. Why plywood? And why do it yourself? If you think about it, there may be enough reasons for such a desire. It is worth figuring out how to do it and why it might be needed.

Why you might want to make a door

There are probably three reasons for such a decision:

The question of savings. It may seem like making a plywood door is cheaper than buying a ready-made one. Of course, it depends on which finished product to choose. But if the question is about how to save on the purchase completely budget option, then making doors with your own hands will not work out cheaper.

Let's count: on the simplest interior panel door standard size from plywood you will need:

bar 20x45x3000 five pieces per frame at a price of 74 rubles - 370 rubles;
plywood for sheathing waterproof FSF, 9 mm, grade III / III, 1220x2440 mm, needles two sheets at a price of 851 rubles - 1720 rubles;
filler for filling voids expanded polystyrene (polystyrene) 1200x1000x20mm KNAUF Therm 15 (Wall Light) at a price of 41 rubles two sheets - 82 rubles;
fasteners universal screws 30x3.0 mm (200 pcs) yellow - 77 rubles;
Kiilto Profi PVA glue 1 kg - 163 rubles;
putty for wood or acrylic sealant for wood Sintesel Madera 300 ml walnut - 274 rubles;
for coloring Pinotex Ultra antiseptic nut 1 l - 569 rubles;

The total amount for materials: 3225 rubles. And this is without taking into account consumables - films to cover something, masking tape (you will definitely need something), sandpaper - to grind the surface, spatulas, brushes. And you will also need tools and fixtures if there is no carpentry workbench.

Now let's see how much the finished doors cost:

hardboard door block DG21-9 870x2070 mm - 1624 rubles;
door block DFG 21-9 array 870x2070 mm (3D DOZ) - 2747 rubles;
door leaf Jeld wen(JITE) plain white deaf 10M 925x2040 mm with a rebate - 1540 rbl;
laminated door leaf Verda Italian walnut 9M, 800x2000 mm, without bolster - 1583 rubles;
door leaf eco-veneer Smart Cappuccino 820x2010 mm, with rebate - 2474 rubles;

Comments, as they say, are superfluous.

Appearance. Making it yourself will allow you to create a unique piece of furniture, such as the plywood doors in the photo. Plywood is a really excellent finishing material, undeservedly bypassed by most designers. And in vain - excellent interior items or decoration are obtained.
The desire to tinker. It is a laudable desire, worthy of respect and not subject to discussion.

It can be concluded that if the idea of creating a door on your own is motivated only by economic considerations, then you can get a financial benefit (small) by making not one copy, but at least ten. In all other cases, savings are not observed.

What will it take to make the door

If you are motivated by the desire to create something unique, or just to create something, take a closer look at the manufacturing process. The required materials are described above. You can add to this various wooden moldings to imitate panels. If the product is supposed to be painted with colored paint, and not tinted under valuable wood species, then you can use polyurethane parts - various moldings. The choice of profiles is much richer than wood. The second finishing option is milling. Then it makes sense to choose a thicker plywood - 15 mm.

To do something with your own hands, hands alone are not enough. I need a tool. You can do manual carpentry. But electric is simpler. In order to cut parts, you need a circular hand saw - parquet. It can be used to cut plywood, saw off a bar. For long straight cuts, it is much more convenient than a jigsaw. If you do not plan to cut at an angle, then this is quite enough.

To create decorative elements, you may need a miter box or a miter saw and a router with a set of cutters. If the decor of the product is associated with cutting out curved parts, then this is where you need a jigsaw. You can also use a screwdriver to tighten the screws, but it is easier and faster to use a screwdriver. You can also grind the surface by hand, but, again, faster and less physically costly with a grinder.

In addition to the power tool, clamps are useful. How much and what - depends on the complexity of the project. Better to have a few different sizes... In any case, you cannot do without a tape measure, square, pencil, knife.

To cut exactly the plywood, you need to have a long line - at least 2 meters. For this, a plastering rule or any even and solid strip may be suitable. When buying materials, buy several boards - they will be useful both as a stop-rail when sawing, and then, for gluing parts.

We make the door ourselves

The simplest type of door for self-production is panel board. Panel door - frame with cladding and inner filling.

To create a frame, mark out a bar so that the parts are around the perimeter and two additional jumpers. We carefully cut the parts. The more accurate the cut, the easier it is to assemble the structure: all parts must be connected at right angles. Use a square to check for squareness. It is necessary to make additional mortgages at the place of installation of the handle and lock. Use self-tapping screws to fasten the frame. If you intend to use a tinted wood surface, then you need to consider how to mask the screws on the front surface.

We cut plywood to size. Plywood doors are clad with glue. Additionally, we fix it mechanically - with self-tapping screws. Having made the sheathing on one side, we put a layer of foam plastic between the frame bars. Try to cut it more precisely so that the pieces fit tightly. After that, you can mount the cladding on the other side with glue and self-tapping screws.

Finishing

The plywood interior door is ready. Now you need to start finishing it. We eliminate possible defects with putty or acrylic sealant. We sand all surfaces. Remove a small chamfer from the edges. If you just wanted to make a smooth blind door, then all that remains is to apply a decorative coating.

If you have ambitious plans for decorating a door, then this is an excellent blank for creativity. You can make false panels - overhead or milled, you can cut out some figure with a jigsaw and glue it on the plane of the door leaf. Or create a drawing using a router.

The plywood front door is made using the same technology. You just need to take a thicker layer of insulation, and it is possible to additionally strengthen the structure with a metal corner around the perimeter and a sheet of metal under the plywood layer.

The manufacture of paneled doors is a complex task that requires special skills. But a simpler door can be made with his own hands by a person who knows how to hold a hammer and a saw in his hands. A work of art is unlikely to work, but a good-quality product is quite.

When making doors yourself, the first step is to measure the doorway: you need to make a door frame. In most cases, it looks like the letter "P": two vertical posts are installed and one horizontal at the top - a lintel or a crossbar.

The bar, which is attached at the bottom, is rarely used today, but there are special-purpose rooms in which the threshold is made necessarily. For example, in the steam room of a Russian bath. A threshold is needed here so that steam does not escape.

Having previously assembled the door frame on the floor, you can decide on the dimensions of the future door: they should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the box you made. After you make the door leaf, cut in the hinges. Doors are heavy from wood, and it is very difficult to wear them on hinges. Therefore, it is more convenient to do everything on the floor. Mark the hinge fasteners, make a recess to the desired depth, install them on the jamb and on the door leaf.

Then you install the box in the opening, fix it, and only then hang the doors. Here in general outline how the process works. Now in more detail about how to make doors with your own hands.

Making a door frame

According to the rules, the racks of the door frame should be hidden in the floor and rest on the joists. But today, far from everywhere we make wooden floors, and therefore more often they simply abut them against the finished floor. But by the time the door is installed, the floor must be ready, only the skirting boards are not nailed.

We assume that the floor and doorway are ready. Decide what type of box you will install: "P" -shaped or with a lower jumper. Draw a diagram, measure the opening, and plot the measurements on the image.

For brick, concrete or other similar walls, the dimensions of the box should be a couple of centimeters smaller than the opening: a gap is needed for mounting elements and foam. For walls made of timber or logs, a jar or casing is generally made - bars installed around the perimeter with a small gap, which will compensate for the shrinkage of the building, and at the same time fasten the logs or beams, which, after cutting the opening, became free. This, of course, is additional materials and work, but this is the only way to guarantee that the doors will not jam.

As a result of measurements, the height of the two side strips - the posts - may differ slightly. It's not scary. It is important that they are vertical, and the horizontal top bar - the lintel - is strictly horizontal.

The door frame is made from one board with a molded groove or a composite one from several boards glued together. The width of the groove must match the thickness of the door leaf or be a couple of millimeters larger.

If you have a woodworking machine on your farm, do it yourself. No - you buy in a carpentry shop, in a hardware store, etc. You will need two strips for the side posts and one or two (depending on the type of box) for horizontal jumpers.

The bars from which the jambs are made can be simple, or they can have a shaped (profile) front part. A rubber or silicone seal can be installed at the end of the ledge against which the door leaf rests. To do this, a shallow cut is made into it using a special roller (or an ordinary screwdriver), an elastic band is installed. These seals are much more effective and more durable than foam, come in different colors and shapes, and are sold in hardware stores.

The planks are sanded on three sides to a perfect finish. The fourth one will be leaning against the wall, it does not have to be processed.

Assembly order

Saw off the top web of the required width. Now you need to make grooves in it, into which the racks will enter. To do this, it is necessary to remove the protrusion to the width of the bar. It sounds incomprehensible, but if you look at the photo, everything becomes clear.

Measure the width of the rack, set aside this distance on the lintel, draw a straight line. Make a cut to the depth of the thorn ( hand saw). Now remove the excess with chisels. After leveling with sandpaper, make two holes for the screws: this is how they will be fastened to the racks.

Do the same on the other side. Just do not start sawing without measuring the second rack: joinery may differ by a couple of millimeters, and this threatens the appearance of cracks. First you measure, then mark, and only then saw and work with a chisel.

If the construct has a threshold, it is handled in exactly the same way.

Now it remains to adjust the height of the side slats. From the total height of the doorway, subtract the thickness of the transverse strips (upper, and, if any, lower) and the distance under the polyurethane foam (1-2 cm). Get the height of the racks. Saw them off and put the whole structure together. The door frame is assembled by hand. We start making the door leaf.

Wooden doors to the bathhouse or to the country house

Wooden doors can be complex. Beginners should not immediately take on such work: they need to learn from simple things. Ideal in this regard are the doors to the bathhouse, for a summer residence, etc. They are rarely complex structures... The main thing here is reliability and functionality. Attractiveness is important too, but even simple doors in the steam room, made by hand - a result that you can be proud of. With good processing, they look very decent: the material is beautiful, it does not need any decorations. It is important to correctly process and varnish.

Materials (edit)

They use good commercial wood for the manufacture of joinery, without knots or with a minimum amount of them. If there are knots, they should not be black. You also need dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 12-15%. Ideally, taking kiln-dried boards will definitely not lead them. Look also at their geometry: "propellers" and "waves" do not suit us. The boards must be flat.

You can buy sanded boards with a pre-formed spike and groove - there will be less work

Thickness - from 25 mm to 50 mm. Depending on the purpose and design of the door. Before use, their surface is brought to a perfectly even state - by grinding machines or manually using sandpaper fixed for convenience on a small block.

A simple version of curved boards

The simplest wooden interior door can be from one row of boards 30-40 mm thick, fastened together by transverse strips. Rounded and sanded boards are folded close to each other. There should be no gaps, the match is perfect.

The dimensions of the door leaf should be 4 mm less in width and length of the manufactured door frame. Only in this case it will be possible to close them without any problems.

To avoid drafts, the boards can be made with profiled edges: make a thorn half the thickness or saw down the edges at 45 o. This option is more laborious, but it will be warm in the room.

According to the rules for transverse strips - dowels - grooves are cut in the boards. The dowels are driven into this groove, fastening the boards together. Having a special saw for wood - a reward - it is not difficult to do this:

Make two cuts at 45 o. To prevent the saw from slipping, the angle was kept even, a block with the same angle was nailed on the edge. By sliding the saw along it, you will make a straight cut at the desired angle.
On the other hand, at a distance of 30 mm, a similar cut is made in the other direction.
With a chisel they choose wood between them. The result is a trapezoidal groove into which a key of the same format is driven. For greater reliability, you can use wood glue. It is better not to take PVA glue. Moreover, for the doors to the steam room: it will not withstand such a temperature. For steam rooms and wet rooms, the glue is chosen with a high class in terms of resistance to moisture (from D3 and higher).

As a result, you will get doors to the steam room, assembled by your own hands, and without nails.

It is easier to assemble a similar door: by screwing transverse and oblique strips 25-30 mm thick onto self-tapping screws. If you install it in the steam room, then it is advisable to drown the hats in the wood, or twist them from the side of the washing and changing rooms. So, by touching the door, you will not get a burn from the heated metal.

Entrance door from two rows of planks

If the doors are made of two rows of boards, and insulation is laid between them, you get a good front door or an excellent heat-saving option for a steam room. But then a good one will be needed in the steam room - with such a device, air does not pass through the doors.

The first row is assembled in the same way as in the previous version: the boards are tightly fitted to one another, fastened with transverse strips.

Doors from two rows of boards are already entrance

Another row will fit on top, and the gap can be filled with a heat insulator. It is selected depending on the place of installation: for the front door it is important that when moisture gets in, the insulation does not lose its properties, is not afraid of freezing. A good option is polystyrene foam, foam is cheaper. Mineral wool is not suitable - they are afraid of moisture, unless they are protected with a layer of moisture insulation. Then they will keep warm well.

Having laid the heat insulator, it is pressed with a second layer of boards, which are attached to the transverse strips with self-tapping screws through and through. If on one of the sides you have a door without nails, you can turn this side to the street: so you don't have to worry that during operation, ugly dark streaks will stretch from the caps.

The final stage of manufacturing a wooden entrance door is finishing around the perimeter. In principle, it was possible to fill (fasten with self-tapping screws) strips on the first layer. This is a more correct option. But you can, having collected both layers, attach thin - 5-7 mm - strips around the perimeter from the ends, closing the insides.

The final stage is finishing the doorway. This is firstly, if the width of the door frame was not enough, and which give a finished look.

See one of the options for such a door in the video.

Plywood doors

You can make good interior doors from bars and plywood with your own hands. There may be several options.

Single layer

This design is suitable for installation in any utility room, where sound and heat insulation is unimportant. This is a frame made of wooden blocks with several transverse strips, on which a plywood sheet of a suitable size is stuffed.

Plywood can be anything, but for good appearance 1-2 classes are required. It does not contain (class 1) or almost does not contain (class 2) knots on the front surface. This material is different in thickness: from 3 mm to 21 mm. There is moisture-resistant plywood - it can be used in damp rooms, there is laminated - in this case there is no need for finishing: it is covered with PVC film and has a look similar to wood.

When choosing plywood for residential premises or a bath, you need to pay attention not to safety: in its manufacture, glue that contains formaldehyde is used. The formaldehyde content is controlled, depending on its amount and the intensity of its release into the atmosphere, the emission class is set: from 0 (almost none) to 5. Plywood with emission classes 0 and 1 is allowed even for the manufacture of children's furniture. Therefore, it is also suitable for the doors to the bathhouse.

Multilayer

The design is similar, only there can be two or three layers. Heat / sound insulation can be placed between them. As a result, these doors can also be installed in the steam room. You will only need to take moisture-resistant plywood. Then it can be tinted with a stain and covered with heat-resistant varnish (if you want, of course) or soaked in drying oil, wax.

Do-it-yourself multilayer plywood doors

You can fix plywood on small nails, screws. You will have to drill holes for the self-tapping screws: then there will be a guarantee that upper layer will not be damaged.

Outcomes

You can make wooden or plywood doors with your own hands. It is important to choose a suitable design, have a certain amount of patience and time, as well as a certain amount of materials.