Instructions for installation and operation of the entrance door Jeld-Wen. Installation of an entrance Finnish door and its operation Installation of a Finnish door

Door hinges are perhaps the most important element accessories. If the design can function without problems without a handle and a locking device, then without awnings (it doesn’t matter whether these are hinges for doors with a quarter, or hidden mechanisms), the door system cannot exist.

In general, the world door hinges rich and varied. But only by choosing such a mechanism correctly, you can be sure of the high-quality work of the structure.

Door hinges must meet the following requirements:

• Ensure a smooth movement of the leaf (it does not matter whether such fittings are installed on Finnish door systems or not). And besides, such canopies should in no case creak.
• Be strong (they must hold the sash, regardless of its weight, while avoiding sagging and warping of the door in the opening).
• Harmonize with the design of the Finnish construction leaf or other door system where they are installed.

Properly selected and meeting these requirements, the hinge for the door will ensure the smooth functioning of the door system. It is worth paying attention to the fact that awnings vary greatly among themselves in terms of the principle of operation and the method of installation.

There are the following types of loops:

• direct card;
• corner cards;
• screw-in;
• hidden;
• Italian, etc.

The scope of each type is determined by its features.

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Card straight elements

Such loops outwardly resemble two cylinders. One of these cylinders has a rod. To enlarge operational period door hinges, a bearing or washer is installed between the rubbing elements.

Fasten straight card sheds to the structure using rectangular plates, the so-called "wings". One plate is fixed on the box, and the second on the canvas.

As for the type of fastening, card direct canopies are of two types:

1. invoices;
2. mortise.

When installing mortise canopies, the hinges are recessed in the sash and on the box (for this, a milling cutter or chisel is used). The depth of such an insert should be 2-3 mm.

Installing overhead canopies on folding or swinging Finnish structures is somewhat easier than installing mortise elements. Even a novice home master can do this operation with his own hands. Overhead hinges are screwed to the surface of the frame and sash with special self-tapping screws.

In addition, there are universal door hinges, right and left. Before choosing left or right canopies, you should check which way the door will open. A win-win option would be the purchase of universal fittings.

Card corner awnings

If the fittings will be installed on a door system with a vestibule, experts recommend making their choice in favor of corner canopies. The fact is that on the end side of a wooden sash of this design there is a special recess - a place for installing a hinge.

Corner card sheds practically do not differ in principle from elements with rectangular plates. They provide the sash with an opening angle of 90 degrees.

Screw fittings

Screw fittings, like corner hinges, are designed for installation on Finnish structures with a feigned quarter. However, instead of slats, there are two small pins that are screwed into the sash and the box.

Screw-in canopies (they are also called pin ones) have a significant advantage: if necessary, they can be adjusted with a hex key in three directions (horizontal, height and pressure area). Such fasteners close special decorative overlays or caps (they can be of different shades).

Which pin loops will be selected depends on the dimensions of the canvas and its weight. For lightweight folding and swing sashes ideal option there will be screw-in canopies with two or three pins or end loops. But for heavy structures, it is better to use screw-in hinges with four pins: they are reliable, so they can withstand their weight.

It is worth paying attention to the fact that installing screw-in awnings is not so easy as it seems at first glance. This requires precision and accuracy. Therefore, if the home master has not installed screw mechanisms before, it is better not to take on this matter, but to entrust the installation of fittings to professional installers.

Hidden Items

These hinges are designed for swing doors, although sometimes they are also installed on folding systems. They are unique in that when closed, the canopy sashes are not visible. In other words, these are internal structural elements.

In general, hidden loops have a complex structure. They are equipped with three axes of rotation. The first axis is considered the main one, the other two are fixed elements. Thanks to this amazing structure, when opening or closing the sash, the hidden canopy either unfolds or folds.

Features of mounting hidden elements:

1. With the help of a chisel or a milling cutter, a small depression is made from the end of the sash and in the box beam.
2. Perform a selection for fasteners.
3. Remove the fixing screws and disassemble the hinges.
4. The hinged parts are installed in the recesses provided for them in folding or swinging Finnish structures and fixed with self-tapping screws.
5. Connect the individual parts of the loops and fix them with fixing screws.
6. They put decorative overlays on folding or swinging Finnish structures.

Properly installed hidden canopies and decorative overlays can become a real decoration of the structure. Often, decor is placed on swinging systems.

Italian awnings

This fitting was developed and patented by Barausse, a leader in the production of doors. The peculiarity of such mechanisms is that they are not attached to the side of the sash, in the bottom or top of the canvas.

Moreover, Italian canopies can be installed even during the operation of the structure. And due to the fact that the holes are almost invisible, they can be reinstalled if desired. And besides, you can choose any side of the opening of the sash.

furniture fittings

The following types of fittings are installed on the doors of furniture items:

1. Overhead.
   This type of loop is considered the most common. Overhead canopies are installed on a furniture set (bedroom, kitchen, etc.).
2. Semi overhead.
   They are used in cases where two sashes enter one side rack at the same time.
3. Internal.
   Outwardly, such a canopy resembles a semi-invoice. These mechanisms are installed in cases where the facade is placed inside the furniture case, and the hinged part of the canvas is in contact with the adjacent rack of the case.
4. Corner.
   Most often, such fittings are installed on corner pieces of furniture. However, if the opening angle of the sash should be 180 degrees, such canopies will not work.
5. Piano.
   This type of loop is considered obsolete. Piano elements of construction in our time can be found only in antique pieces of furniture. In addition, a lid is attached to the piano hinges, covering the keys of the piano (hence the name "piano" canopies).
6. Calcaneal.
   They can be installed on the bottom or top corner of the door. However, heel canopies are used extremely rarely, because they are not suitable for heavy facades.
7. Inverse.
   Such accessories provide opening of a shutter on 180 degrees. As you know, at an angle of 180 degrees, the cabinet door with the side rack form a straight line.
8. Self-closing.
   If self-closing canopies are installed on the locker, they will “softly” return the canvas to the closed position.

Naturally, the choice of fittings depends on the characteristics of the pieces of furniture. If the door is to open 180 degrees, the best option elements become inverted. Also, the choice of such canopies is determined by the material from which the cabinet is made.

Canopies for iron structures

The main requirement that loops must meet for steel doors, - endurance. Such fittings must be strong and strong, because it will have to hold a massive iron sash. And this is not 8-10 kilograms (as interior door systems), it is 80 kg, and sometimes 100 kg.

Moreover, such canopies should provide security. They must be equipped with a special anti-removable mechanism. In this case, there is a small protrusion on one wing of the fittings, and a hole for it on the second. When the entrance steel structure is closed, the protrusion firmly enters the hole, so that the attacker does not have a chance to remove the iron sash from the awnings.

Single sided or double sided?

One-sided overhead canopies, installed, for example, on Finnish structures, are designed so that the canvas moves in only one single direction. Such overhead structural elements are left-handed or right-handed. The advantage of this type of hinge is that, if necessary, the sash can be quickly and easily removed from the hinges.

Double-sided fittings, installed on folding or swinging Finnish structures, have three cards connected to each other by large rods. Each such rod has a spring, which ensures a snug fit of the canopies to the sash. However, such mechanisms are rarely installed in apartments and country houses.

Hardware manufacturing material

Regardless of whether awnings will be used for folding or swing door systems or they will be installed on pieces of furniture, they all differ in the material of manufacture.

Overhead (on bearings), piano, inverse (provide an opening angle of 180 degrees), self-closing and other canopies are made from the following alloys:

• copper;
• aluminum;
• gland;
• brass;
• zinc, etc.

For heavy folding Finnish structures, as well as in cases where the doors are swinging, it is recommended to install canopies made of steel and zinc alloys and covered with brass on top.

As you can see, the world of door hinges is diverse, which means that their choice is huge!

Starting from 2019, the EU countries are switching to residential construction standards, according to which the level of thermal insulation of private and multi-storey buildings under construction cannot be lower than the “passive” class (energy consumption for heating should not exceed 15 kWh / (m² year)). The thermal resistance of windows and doors within this class is at least 0.9(m² K)/W. IN climatic conditions Northern Europe and middle lane RF only Finnish entrance doors meet these requirements. However, in the domestic private housing construction, these products have enjoyed well-deserved respect for more than 20 years, regardless of any foreign standards.

Our developers use the term "doors with a thermal break". What does this mean? To explain, let's take a short digression into architecture and design.

A good architectural solution for thermal cutoff is the arrangement of a vestibule with an internal door that duplicates the entrance. However, why spend money on two doors instead of one and waste square meters on arranging a vestibule, if everything can be decided differently?

Two types of heat loss are associated with entrance doors - heat transfer and convection. In the first case, energy saving is achieved by using heat insulators, in the second case, by using high-quality seals that eliminate air leaks through the gaps. The design of the door leaf on the principle of a sandwich panel removes the issue of increased heat transfer over the area. At the same time, the absence of an all-metal shell excludes the formation of a perimetric cold bridge. After all, even a “classic” door that is well insulated inside freezes through for this reason.

What is a thermal break in simple words: when you remove a pan with metal handles from the stove, then in order not to burn yourself, take an oven mitt. So the tack will be a thermal break.

In door blocks thermal insulation material divided into several layers. The transitions between the layers of insulation will act as a thermal break.

In addition to direct heat losses under conditions cold winter all-metal doors can also cause aesthetic inconvenience: frost on the canvas and a puddle of condensate at the threshold in the hallway look not very “cozy” ... Finnish entrance doors are deprived of all these shortcomings. Along with the insulated sheet, the thermal break in them is also ensured by the structural features of the box.

Other Benefits of Passive House Doors

Like most Scandinavian products, warm wooden doors are positioned not only in terms of energy saving, but also in terms of environmental friendliness. The principle of zero gas emission is maintained with respect to all components - from the frame and filler to the cladding and the type of emulsion finish paint.

The consumer chooses between flat painted or aluminum surfaces, as well as bas-reliefs and millings of various depths and styles. Glass inserts complete the aesthetic palette. By the way, about glass: as in energy-saving windows, warm Finnish doors use a two-chamber double-glazed window with k-glass and argon filling of the chambers.

Finnish warm double-glazed doors

Products of the "arctic" type (as the doors of this category are also called) are superior to conventional wooden input modules in terms of strength, reliability, durability and heat saving. They are not afraid of any climatic zones and vagaries of the weather. Despite the "northern" version, the parameters of the product even in southern conditions improve the microclimate of the house, preventing the penetration of heat into the hallway and living room.

These doors favorably differ from armored metal doors not only because they are warmer. The mass of the product is also important. With the same quality of canopies, Finnish arctic doors open and close easier. Their canvases do not warp during prolonged use.

Distinguishes Finnish manufacturers and a wide range of design developments. Why is wide variability of the model range of entrance doors important? The fact is that the interior of a northern European house implies the absence of a hallway. Entry group located in the living room. Therefore, both the entrance from the street and the passages to the rooms are in sight at the same time. Therefore, the product should be in harmony not only with the exterior of the house, but also with the overall style of the interior, if possible, matching the design with interior doors.

Typical configuration of products of the Arctic category

Typically, the leaf of such a door consists of a sandwich with a thickness of 60 mm. Its layers are:

• Outside, HDF sheets coated with weather resistant paint.
• Aluminum sheet. Carries the functions of waterproofing and giving the canvas additional rigidity.
• Frame made of laminated glued laminated timber (does not lead in the most severe climatic conditions).
• A layer of extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 200 kg/m³.
• Door lock type Multihela 4565, cylinder TrioVing Assa Abloy.

The frame and threshold are made of hardwood. Section 115×42 mm. There is an aluminum trim on the threshold. It is the rejection of the all-aluminum threshold and its replacement with a one made of solid wood that provides a lower thermal break, which is ignored in traditional designs of entrance door frames. An elastic sealing contour is made both along the perimeter of the web and from the receiving part of the box.

The size range of canvases is based on a multiplicity of 100 mm in width and 10 mm in height. The main dimensions are 900×2100 and 1000×2100. They accept Finnish enterprises and orders for the production of doors for non-standard openings. However, with the competent organization of construction and repair processes, the likelihood of such a need is zero, especially if you take into account the possibility of filling the opening due to side transoms (narrow additional wings).

You should be careful when buying Finnish doors in domestic building supermarkets. To reduce the price, sometimes the original canvases are completed with Russian, Belarusian or Chinese boxes without a lower thermal break and sometimes without a seal .

You should also not order Finnish doors with reinstallation of locks of a different design. It is better to use the original ones, since, in addition to all their other advantages, they provide adjustment of the locking density. And this is important for fitting sealing contours.

The main manufacturers of Finnish doors

We choose warm Finnish doors from trusted manufacturers

The products of the Fenestra brand were the first to enter the domestic market (since 2014, they have been produced under the Kaski brand). Some Finnish models, such as the Fenestra ST2000, are jokingly called “Russian folk doors” by developers and sellers because of their stable (more than 20 years!) demand for them. In addition to Kaski, the brands EDUX and Jeld-Wen have earned the trust of consumers. The average price tag for their products is somewhat lower than that of Kaski with comparable design and quality. Jeld-Wen doors use veneer glued to HDF sheets. This is the only structural difference from the Kaski and EDUX models.

Kaski except standard thickness 60 mm there is a thermo category with a blade of 86 mm. The meaning of this modification is to increase the thickness of the expanded polystyrene insert. thermo doors are noticeably more expensive than the basic 60 mm models. Another feature of the brand is that hi-tech and modern options are presented in an impressive number of designs. However, in model lines of all the mentioned manufacturers provide solutions for the main types of individual development - archaic stone houses, log cabins in the style of modern country minimalism, cottages with Victorian clinker brick cladding and laconic constructivist concrete "cubes".

Ensuring thermal break during installation

The correct installation of the arctic wooden entrance doors has some features associated with the exclusion of cold bridges. First, the horizontalness of the floor surface in the opening is checked and, if necessary, leveled with a wooden plank, smaller in width than the thickness of the door frame. The gap under the bar is carefully foamed (after installing the door). A layer of elastic material with insulating and waterproofing properties is laid on the bar. Usually, mineral wool impregnated with paraffins is used.

The box is being installed traditional method. The only remark concerns the uniformity of the width of the mounting slots between the box and the draft opening: you should try so that the box does not rest against the opening anywhere, and the slot foams around the entire perimeter without gaps.

Follow the instructions, be precise with the measurements and check the results. Read the instructions carefully before proceeding with the installation. The outer door is intended primarily for use as a front door in private houses of year-round residence, mansions and townhouses, in such buildings where thermal insulation qualities are required.

It is strictly forbidden to mount doors in a house under construction or in a room where wet work is carried out (for example, floor concreting, screed pouring, etc.). Too much moisture can warp the wood and cause the paint to peel off. In addition, fittings, including the lock body, may become rusty.

ATTENTION! When installing entrance doors in the cold season, it is necessary to use certified mounting foams specially designed for use at low temperatures - information with specific recommendations for use is usually printed on the bottle by the manufacturer.

Always install a moisture barrier (bituminous strip, etc.) between the horizontal base and the threshold.

Never install the box directly on a concrete floor or screed! Use, for example, a bituminous strip, etc.

Doors should be installed in places with a sufficiently long roof overhang or canopy over the door, which will protect the surface of the door from moisture and sunlight.

When determining the dimensions of the canopy, you should be guided by the following formula: the width of the canopy D must be at least half the height of the canopy (distance from the bottom of the door to the bottom of the canopy, see diagram).

Stages of installation of the front door:

Stage 1

Check that the base under the threshold is horizontal.

Install the tide in the mounting opening and place the assembled box on it

Lubricate the seam with sealing compound.

The tide can be installed later. In this case, turn the tide under the threshold

and glue it by installing the ebb in the groove intended for it in the threshold.

Stage 2

Fasten the box in the mounting hole with wedges, inserting them above the mounting holes of the box so that the side of the box with the hinges is exactly vertical (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Use two wedges for each mounting hole in the box, insert one wedge from the outside and the other from the inside. Use a spirit level to check that the box is level.

Make sure there is enough space around the perimeter of the box for the seal

and secure the side of the box with hinges fixing screws to the wall.

Stage 3

Install anti-burglary pins in the door. Do not screw them all the way in, leave a margin of 10mm. Hang the door leaf on the hinges.

Tighten the anti-burglary pins to failure, install and tighten the fixing screws of the hinge.

Stage 4

Make sure the threshold is set horizontally. Align the side of the box with the lock striker (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Fasten the box to the wall with fixing screws.

Stage 5

Use a hex wrench to adjust the door height. Before adjusting the door to the side, loosen the anti-burglary pins and fixing screws. Adjust to the side with the adjusting screw intended for this purpose. After adjustment, tighten the anti-burglary pins and fixing screws to the stop.

Entrance door hinge adjustment Jeld-Wen

The position of the outer door leaf can be adjusted in height and horizontally by adjusting the hinges.

This is especially true, for example, when shrinking a house.

Height adjustment

Required tool: 5 mm hex wrench.

Door adjustment up

1. Loosen the upper adjusting screw (1) on all hinges by turning it with a hex key 2-3 turns.
2. By turning the adjusting screws (2) on the lower part of the hinges, set the door to the desired height position.
3. Be sure to tighten all hinge screws an equal number of turns to evenly distribute the weight of the door on the hinges.
4. Tighten the fixing screws on top of all hinges (1).

Down door adjustment

• Loosen the bottom adjusting screw (2) on all hinges except one by 2-3 turns.
• By turning the screw (2) of the remaining hinge counterclockwise, lower the door to the desired height.
• Tighten the adjusting screws (2) of the remaining hinges to the same position to evenly distribute the weight of the door on all hinges.
• Finally, tighten the top adjustment screws (1) without too much force.

Horizontal door adjustment

Tools needed: 5mm hex key, Phillips screwdriver.

Increasing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side

1. Tighten the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
2. Tighten the adjusting screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and evenly distribute the weight of the door.

Reducing the distance between the door and the door frame on the hinge side

1. Loosen the fixing screws (3) and anti-removal pin (5) on all hinges by 2-3 turns.
2. Loosen the adjusting screws (4) on one of the hinges so that the door leaf is in the desired position. .
3. Loosen the adjusting screws (4) on the second hinge (on the remaining hinges) to level the door leaf and distribute the weight of the door evenly.
4. Carefully tighten the screws (3) and anti-removal pins (5).

Stage 6

Does the door close tightly?

Closing tightness can be adjusted by adjusting the striker.

Stage 7

Carefully seal the gap between the wall and the box by filling it with mineral wool. Lubricate, then, the gap with a sealing elastic mass for the vapor barrier of the seam. Do not use polyurethane foam because it can deform when it expands. door frame and complicate possible subsequent adjustments of the door.

Operating instructions for external doors

Painted products

Products are painted with moisture-resistant paints that meet the requirements for scratch resistance, wear resistance and appearance surfaces and that are resistant to many household chemicals, grease and solvents.

cleaning

Use the usual detergents(non-alkaline), e.g. dishwashing liquid. Use to clean mold special means to remove mold. Do not use detergents that may scratch or dissolve the painted surface. Avoid, for example, the use of solvents, abrasive powders, metal fiber sponges, etc. Wet the surface from bottom to top, but wash it from top to bottom. Otherwise, drip lines may appear on the door. Wipe dry.

Service

A normal wash is usually sufficient, as long as the door is not damaged or abnormally worn. To maintain the shine, however, it is recommended to rub the door surfaces after washing, for example with car wax.

Coloring

Minor damage is best touched up with a brush and an alkyd or acrylate enamel suitable for color and gloss, intended for outdoor use. First check the compatibility of the paint with the material of the original paint on a small surface, for example by painting a small area on the edge of the door on the hinge side.

Product quality and warranty conditions for Jed-Wen doors

Jeld-Wen manufactures its products in accordance with the requirements of the unified European CE standard.

What is SE?

The CE mark is a guarantee to the consumer that the product meets the essential requirements of the European harmonized standard and can therefore be legally placed on the market.

CE marking has long been mandatory on products such as toys and electronics, but more recently this unified standard has been set for certain building materials.

What does this mean for the consumer?

All CE marked products carry product data in the Declaration of Performance (DoP) format, allowing clear and easy comparisons between similar products and providing the consumer with the necessary information to make an informed decision.

The DoP provides key performance information for construction products that has been independently tested and certified by an EU authority.

All products covered by these Directives are subject to the CE marking either on the product itself or on its packaging - the CE logo and a number that indicates the relevant DoP.

Non-compliance of products with the requirements of the CE standard regarding the curvature of the web or box is considered a warranty defect.

We apologize if you encounter a defect in JELD-WEN products! If a defect is found, please contact us and provide the order number. Please note that a defective product cannot be installed and used!

How to measure if the door leaf is warped?

Lay the door leaf on a flat horizontal surface

Measure the distance between the central part of the door leaf and the surface on which it is located (mm)

Permissible curvature up to 5 mm per door leaf

How to measure if the door frame is warped?

Curvature towards the wall

Lay the box (flat) on a horizontal flat surface so that the ends of the box touch the ground.

Permissible curvature of the box in the direction of the wall is 3 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21M 6 mm per vertical of the box.

Curvature towards the edge of the box

Lay the box on its side on a flat, horizontal surface with the ends of the box touching the surface.

Measure the gap between the center of the box and the surface (mm).

Allowed curvature of the box in the direction of the edge 1.5 mm / per 1 meter (i.e. for a box with a height of 20M and 21 M up to 3 mm per one of its verticals)

We are not responsible for product defects resulting from normal wear and tear, improper storage, installation and operation.

Finnish doors began their victorious march across the expanses of the post-Soviet countries at the end of the last century. People began to trust what low price can stand high quality. White paneled doors from Finnish manufacturers, which are still not only retaining, but also expanding the niche of their products, are familiar to everyone. Most people want to have strong, reliable, comfortable and durable doors.

Finnish doors began their victorious march across our country more than 10 years ago. The use of environmentally friendly materials and the most modern technologies, allows you to produce high-quality and high-quality products designed for a long service life without losing their consumer qualities.

The range and color range of currently supplied Finnish doors are so wide that they can satisfy the most sophisticated taste of the buyer. This interior doors, doors for saunas, doors for bathrooms, fire-prevention, entrance and others.

Despite this diversity, interior doors are still in the greatest and most stable demand. Previously, the vast majority of Finnish interior doors supplied to our country were smooth frame doors with honeycomb filling or panel doors made of solid pine. Usually these doors were white or gray. Now veneered and melamine doors have been added to them. Veneered doors are finished with veneer of precious woods - oak, beech, hornbeam, mahogany. Melamine doors are covered with melamine, imitating the veneer of some types of wood - walnut, cherry, pear, etc.

All varieties of Finnish doors have one distinctive design feature, favorably distinguishing them from the bulk of other doors. This is the presence of a slat or a special ledge on the door leaf, which closes the gap between the leaf and the door frame. This design improves the heat and sound insulation of Finnish doors. In addition, the protrusion of the door leaf makes possible flaws during installation invisible.

The set of interior doors includes a door frame with embedded hinges and a door leaf with an installed mortise lock, which minimizes damage that occurs during the installation of doors.

Finnish interior doors are adapted to Russian conditions. Thanks to the thickness of the door frame of 92 mm, they are suitable for installation in any interior partitions. The height of the door frame of Finnish doors is 210 mm, which exceeds by several centimeters Russian standard. Therefore, sometimes it becomes necessary to trim the door a little.

Before purchasing Finnish interior doors, determine which doors you need - left or right. If door hinges located to your left - this is the left door. These doors have left locks. And if the door hinges are on the right, then these are right doors with the right lock. You must be in the room where the door opens.

Installation of Finnish doors.

The door block consists of a strapping box and one- or two-door leaves. By design and functional purpose doors are subdivided into panel and frame, external, internal, balcony, etc., with and without a threshold, with and without a transom, glazed and deaf ...

Panel doors consist of a frame, filling and skins. frame completed from a bar (slats), sheathing - from glued plywood, veneer, hardboard, infill - from small-sized sawn timber, waste plywood and hardboard, paper honeycombs. foam plastics, etc. Along the perimeter, the door leaf is framed with wooden lining.

Frame doors (paneled, strapping) consist of strapping (bars) and filler (panels). As a panel, you can use glass, boards, plywood, fibreboard and chipboard.

According to the drawing of the door leaves, the doors are divided into single-leaf, double-leaf with leaves of the same and different widths, and according to the method of opening - into the right ones with the door leaf opening counterclockwise and the left ones with the door leaf opening clockwise.

Front and internal doors can be deaf or glazed. Often, at door blocks, the upper part (transom) is glazed and fixed tightly in a box or glass is inserted into the door instead of panels.

The door can be designed independently, ordered from the master or purchased at the store. More durable doors made of oak or beech, more beautiful - mahogany or ash.

Installation of door frames and doors. When installing the door frame of the front door, the block is lifted and installed in the opening on a lining of roofing paper on mastic. Recently, the door frame is most often installed on mounting foam. It is necessary to ensure that the lower bar is in a strictly horizontal position. Vertical and horizontal elements are installed on a square, plumb and level. The plumb line must pass exactly through the middle of the top side and the intersection of the diagonals of the box. The absence of distortions during installation is evidenced by the equality of the diagonals. This can be achieved with wedges, lifting one side or the other of the box. After vertical and horizontal alignment, the box is fixed to the wall at three points on each side: at a distance of 1 m from the floor and 30 cm from the top and bottom of the box. In the wall (against the side of the box), holes are drilled or punched with a jumper, wooden plugs are driven into them to a depth of 40-50 mm. a box is installed and nails are driven into the corks, the caps are sunk into the wood by at least 2 mm. Instead of nails, steel pins with a diameter of 8-10 mm can be used, the diameter of the holes for them should be 2-3 mm smaller than the diameter of the pins.

The gaps during installation between the wall and the box are caulked dry or wet. With the dry method, the gaps are filled with dry tow, slag or glass wool and compacted. When wet - the materials are moistened in a plaster test (it is prepared in small portions - from 0.2 to 0.5 l). When hardening, wet gypsum expands and presses more tightly against the wall and bar, protecting the gap from blowing.

When installing, the strapping of the paneled outer door is made of simple and curly bars. Calevkas are selected on a strapping or on separate bars. They form a groove with a depth of 15-20mm. where panels up to 50 mm thick are inserted.

Internal doors, depending on the purpose, can be solid or lattice. Boxes for internal doors are less massive and consist of three bars - two vertical ones and an upper one. When installing doors in the inner walls, the openings are made without quarters. The door frame in the partitions is pulled out to one side of the doorway by the thickness of the plaster so that during installation the platband is adjacent to the frame and the wall. When the thickness of the partition is less than the width of the door frame, a bar is nailed with a thickness equal to the difference in the thicknesses of the partition and the frame. If the thickness of the partition is greater than the width of the door frame, a bar of the appropriate thickness is nailed with inside boxes.

If, during installation, the door bars are additionally connected with dowels (wooden pins), the door becomes stronger. The diameter of the holes for the dowels is 10-15mm. Pins are made from hardwood. The dowels are fastened with glue.

Doors are installed on hinges, selected according to size. Most often, two hinges are installed on the door leaf, but in some cases, when the door is made of heavy wood, three hinges are installed. Under no circumstances should the hinges be installed on the horizontal bars of the door frame.

Bindings and doors are hung on hinges of various designs, more often on hemispherical and hinged ones. Half-hinged loops consist of two half-cards; in one, a rod, or axis, is attached, in the other - a hinge in the form of a cap. Such loops are always removable, their cards are easily separated. To reduce friction between them, a ring is put on the rod, often bronze (copper or brass can be used). Each card has three to four screw holes (six to eight holes per hinge), and sometimes more. The height of such loops is 75-50 mm, the width of the card is 30-45 mm.

Hinge loops are made deaf and removable; in the latter, a tip is screwed onto one end of the rod. Loop height - 75-25 mm, card width - 30-35 mm. Bindings and doors are installed on such hinges. Smaller hinges are used for vents. The dimensions of the loops are determined based on the massiveness of the products, the dimensions of the bars of the boxes and strappings.

The shank of the screw must fit tightly enough into the hinge hole, and its head into the countersunk hole. When the screw head protrudes over the countersunk hole, the doors will spring back and not close tightly.

During installation, screws with flat or countersunk, semicircular or semi-counterhead heads are used: the first type of screws is for all types of work, the second and third are for fastening handles, latches and other devices, that is, where the protruding heads will not interfere with the dense vestibule of the valves door bindings.

When installing or replacing collapsible hinges, it must be remembered that the hinges can be left and right - interchangeable. New loops should have the same direction as the old ones.

When installing, to determine the direction of the door, you need to open it towards yourself - the door will be left-handed or right-handed, depending on which hand is on the door handle. There is a rule to make it easier to remember: the right door opens counterclockwise.

The work on installing the hinges is carried out in the following sequence: the hinge is attached to the sash or door at a distance from the edge equal to the length of the hinge. Mark places for loops. With a chisel, wood is cut out to the thickness of the loop card and attached with screws so that its axis is parallel to the edge of the bar. Having strengthened the hinges on the sash or door, they are opened, put on the box, tightly pressed against the upper bar, and outlined according to the opened cards, leaving the risks under the hinges on a quarter. According to the risks, wood is selected for hinge cards, places for screws are marked, each hinge is installed with one screw and it is checked how the sash or door is covered. If necessary, make corrections and strengthen the hinges with screws.

When installing doors in a frame, it is especially important to fit the door to the quarter. The hinged door should not spring when opening and closing, but rotate freely on hinges.

Handles are also fastened with screws. The gaps between the door frames and the wall are covered with slotted boards.

After installing the door block, the canvas is removed from the hinges so as not to damage it during finishing works. At the end of the finishing of the premises, the door blocks in the openings of the plastered walls and partitions are lined with platbands at the level of the wall plane.

Installation of the finished kit. A door set usually consists of three elements: a door leaf with a built-in lock and a latch, a door frame with a stopper for doors and hinges, and platbands fitted for a mustache connection. Finnish doors have a strong reputation in our market, they are seriously competing with French products, which has a special elegance.

Modern inner door can be made of chipboard or fiberboard, aluminum and plastic (PVC), etc. Door frames are also made of different materials.

In a finished door set, the hardest work is done at the factory. Jambs and lintels profiled and drilled for assembly. Hinges are installed on the doors, the lock is inserted into place. It remains to assemble the components and install the kit in a new doorway or in an old doorway, from which the door and frame fastening were removed. Assembly principles are the same for all door sets. The difference lies in the completeness of the assembly of the supplied package. The box may be in a set of individual elements, platbands separately, or maybe it's all already assembled.

Before, measure the height and width of the opening, as well as the thickness of the wall. Door frames are supplied in sets depending on the thickness of the wall. Before installation, it is necessary to decide on which side of the wall the door will open and whether it will open to the left or right. It is very important when installing a door block - and it depends on your skill - to correctly place the frame in the doorway. If the frame is slightly skewed or loose in the opening, the door will not open and close correctly. And you are unlikely to be able to install the door without damaging its appearance. So, you need to start with the hinged side of the box. If you have correctly installed this jamb and drove it tightly, then it is not difficult at all to install the top crossbar and the opposite jamb.

The canvas, platbands and parts of the box facing the room are already finished (paint, varnish, veneer, etc.), while the wood facing the inner edge of the opening is usually not processed.

The door frame is assembled as follows: first, three sections of the door frame are connected and door frame, passing the plastic spikes on the jambs into the plastic grooves on the lintel. Then press the components together until their corners connect correctly. The box is fastened by inserting bolts into the drilled holes and tightening them with nuts.

After that, the assembled box is placed in the doorway. The gaps between the jambs and the wall should be the same on both sides. The platband is pressed tightly against the wall. Using a plumb line or level, make sure that the hinged jamb stands vertically and does not deviate to the side.

Working from the other side of the doorway, insert the seal between the hinge jamb and the wall at the level of all three hinge pins. Holes are drilled in the raw surface of the loop jamb at the level of each loop. If the wall is concrete or brick, then the wall is drilled and plugs are inserted into the holes. Then install the jamb to the wall with screws No. 10. The screws must be long enough to grab the jamb, the seal and go into the wall at least 25 mm

Doors are hung as follows: the door is lowered at right angles to the plane of the opening with three hinge sockets screwed to the door onto the corresponding hinge pins of the jamb. Install the handles and handle covers to both sides of the door, close the door, adjust the position of the loose jamb, and then insert the seal between the jamb and the wall. The second jamb is fixed to the wall in the same way.

In order to cut the trim to size, the inner edge of one of its sections is inserted into the corresponding groove of the door frame stopper. If a gap is formed between the platband and the wall, then the surface of the platband is adjusted with a planer.

Do the same with other sections.

The platbands are strengthened during installation as follows: three sections of the platbands are connected similarly to the sections of the box; smeared with the necessary glue (PVA, mounting adhesives Liquid, Nails, Dap, the Nail, etc.) the raw surface of the frame along the jambs and lintels, then push the assembled trim into the door frame. During installation, the inner sides of the casing are firmly pressed against the groove of the assembled box. Three spacers are cut from a bar (or boards) to the width of the doorway. Under the ends of the bars it is necessary to put a soft cloth so as not to damage the varnished surface of the casing. Then spacers are wedged between the sections of the casing lubricated with glue. This will securely hold the trim in place until the glue dries.

Entrance and interior doors. Finnish doors

Quite popular for many years, are Finnish doors. Previously, they were only available to some people. But now they can be found absolutely everywhere: in cafes, restaurants, apartments. These doors have already managed to occupy a certain niche in this market and study the Russian consumer.

Finnish doors managed to show that they are very reliable and of high quality. They worked on the manufacturing technology of these doors for a very long time. And this brought the production of Finnish doors to a new - European level. They became sold in all countries.
One of the differences between Finnish doors is a strict design in a palette with rather cold shades. The abundance of various models allows each buyer to find what he needs. But some people don't want to buy Finnish doors because they think their design is a little "stingy".

The most important advantage over other doors is the ease of installation. All necessary holes are made by the manufacturer. The width of the door frame is 9 cm, the height is 210 cm. These parameters are suitable for Russian apartments, although sometimes you have to cut the door a little or increase the opening itself.

If you decide to give preference to purchasing exactly Finnish doors, then when buying, you need to look at the certificate of conformity issued to the manufacturing company and for the presence of a corresponding seal and stamp on it at the end of the door itself.

- Price and Quality are up-to-date

Have you decided to buy interior doors? then think about a few points: the price that suits you, the desired door opening option, design, dimensions and the presence of additional doors similar in design to doors.
It will not be superfluous to immediately think over the design of the doors. It should be borne in mind that Sami wooden doors are expensive, but at the same time, they can become a real decoration of the interior. Elegance, variety of forms and service life of such doors (massive doors can be repaired) - speaks for itself. If your goal is to buy interior doors that are durable and impeccable during operation, you need to know the strict observance of manufacturers of all cycles technological process during their manufacture. The quality of the materials used by the craftsmen also plays an important role. To mark the high quality, some companies put their logo on the product.
Cheaper will be interior doors made from combined materials such as MDF. They look great, are durable and in fact are not inferior in quality. wooden door. But the plus is that their reaction to changes in humidity in the room is much less. The price of an MDF door depends on the type of veneer wood that is used for finishing. At the same time, the type of material does not affect the quality of the door itself, it gives the door leaf a shade and texture.
There are also hollow, so-called cellular filling option, doors. The outer panel is specially formed. Such as masonite interior doors are less durable and need more accurate operation. They exist both already covered with veneer, and simply primed. The latter are suitable for people with a more creative approach, as they allow you to paint the interior as you think.

The door frame can be made from either solid wood or chipboard or MDF. It is the tree, despite its popularity among buyers, that is less practical. The array can be damaged over time, and there is also a risk of changing linear dimensions. Modern materials, made under the tree, not only exceed the physical properties of the array, but also in appearance, sometimes surpass natural wood. At the same time, the technology for installing boxes of different materials will be completely different.

Certification is not provided for interior doors. And to determine the quality of the material by eye from which the door leaf is made is quite difficult. Experts recommend buying a door in proven serious companies, or an already established and proven brand.

Processed

Installation of the entrance Finnish door and its operation

In order to properly install the front Finnish door, follow the instructions, be accurate with the dimensions and check the results.
Read the instructions carefully before proceeding with the installation.

Stages of installation of the front door:

Stage 2.
Fasten the box in the mounting hole with wedges, inserting them above the mounting holes of the box so that the side of the box with the hinges is exactly vertical (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Use two wedges for each mounting hole in the box, insert one wedge from the outside and the other from the inside. Use a spirit level to check that the box is level.
Make sure there is enough space around the perimeter of the box for the seal
and fasten the hinged side of the box with the fixing screws to the wall.

Stage 4.
Make sure the threshold is set horizontally. Align the side of the box with the lock striker (both parallel and prependicular to the plane of the wall). Fasten the box to the wall with fixing screws.

Stage 6.
Does the door close tightly?
Closing tightness can be adjusted by adjusting the striker.

Stage 7.
Carefully seal the gap between the wall and the box by filling it with mineral wool. Lubricate, then, the gap with a sealing elastic mass for the vapor barrier of the seam. Do not use polyurethane foam, because when it expands, it can deform the door frame and complicate possible subsequent adjustments of the door.

Operating instructions for external doors

Painted products.
Products are painted with moisture-resistant paints that meet the requirements for scratch resistance, wear resistance and surface appearance, and which withstand many household chemicals, grease and solvents.

Cleaning.
Use normal detergents (non-alkaline) such as dishwashing liquid. To clean mold, use special mold removers. Do not use detergents that may scratch or dissolve the painted surface. Avoid, for example, the use of solvents, abrasive powders, metal fiber sponges, etc. Wet the surface from bottom to top, but wash it from top to bottom. Otherwise, drip lines may appear on the door. Wipe dry.

Service.
A normal wash is usually sufficient, as long as the door is not damaged or abnormally worn. To maintain the shine, however, it is recommended to rub the door surfaces after washing, for example with car wax.

Coloring.
Minor damage is best touched up with a brush of an appropriate color and gloss level of alkyd or acrylate enamel intended for outdoor use. First check the compatibility of the paint with the material of the original paint on a small surface, for example by painting a small area on the edge of the door on the hinge side.