The process of pruning fruit trees has many goals, the main of which are: care, activation of growth and development processes, as well as protection from diseases. But the most important task, of course, is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop. However, positive results can be achieved only when pruning is done technically correctly, with high-quality garden tools, and most importantly, in a timely manner. The article will focus on the correct pruning of fruit trees.
When to prune fruit trees
For each of the species and age of fruit trees, there is its own - the most suitable period for pruning. The ranges of the procedure can be conditionally divided into several.
- autumn-winter. Pruning is carried out immediately after the complete fall of the leaf cover and the end of the movement of tree sap. This period is also called rest time. On the one hand, it is believed that this is the most favorable time for pruning trees. But on the other hand, it is during this period, due to the lack of movement of tree sap, that the healing of cut sites is more difficult. In addition, when pruning at low temperatures, it is possible to freeze the shoots in this way, which will lead to their damage and impaired fruiting.
- spring-summer. It starts from the moment the first movement of tree sap appears - this is the so-called vegetative period, and lasts until the fruit is harvested. This is the best time for grafting and pruning fruit trees. An unsatisfactory result can be corrected before the onset of the cold season.
In addition to seasonal guidelines, before proceeding with pruning fruit trees, it is worth considering a number of equally important factors, such as:
- site location;
- wind speed;
- the presence of precipitation;
- temperature below 0°;
Fruit Tree Pruning Tools
During the pruning period, not only seasonal and weather conditions are fundamental, but also the quality of the tools. The requirements for them are quite simple, they must be as sharp as possible, clean and easy to use. What may be needed for trimming.
- Secateurs. Refers to a variety of garden scissors. In addition to the main requirement - the sharpness of the blades, the tool must be easy and convenient to use, since usually pruning one tree takes a fairly long period of time. It is important to pay attention to the action of the ratchet mechanism, it will depend on how much force you have to press the handles. In addition, the blades must have a small gap, otherwise the young shoots will get stuck in them, which will cause additional work.
- garden saw. The blades should have good sharpening and be shaped narrower towards the end of the blade. The gaps between the teeth should have shallow cavities for the accumulation of sawdust material. Construction saws are not suitable for pruning fruit trees, as they can create additional damage to the trunk.
- long pruner. Differs from manual option with a long handle. This shape is great for cutting off processes that are slightly higher than human height, without the use of additional tools in the form of a stepladder or ladder. There are options with a telescopic tube, which makes it possible to adjust the height of the cut.
In the work of pruning trees, additional tools may be needed.
- Chainsaw will speed up the process of cutting massive trunks, especially for mature trees.
- Ladder or stepladder will form the crown of a fruit tree.
- Overalls, supplemented protective gloves, will save you from unnecessary injuries during work.
- Glasses will be needed at the time of sawing, to protect the eyes from sawdust and small chips.
Technique for shaping and pruning fruit trees
From a technical point of view, there are three types of tree pruning.
- "On the kidney." This pruning method allows you to set the most correct direction of branch growth. As a rule, only young annual shoots are cut in this way with a cut over the selected bud. During the procedure, the pruner blade should be directed towards the branch.
Important: the cutting angle should be as close to 45° as possible so that the kidney is not "truncated". In addition, it is necessary to avoid an excessively sharp cut, in which case the left kidney will lack nutrients. And too long a residual process may dry out and in the future it will have to be completely cut down, which will disrupt the process of crown formation.
- "On the ring." Such pruning is done only with the aim of completely removing one or more branches. The reason may be a violation of the penetration of light into the crown or the wrong direction of the branches. In the latter case, the shoots take away some of the nutrients that can be distributed among the branches that are more promising in terms of yield. If the shoot is relatively young and its thickness allows, then pruning is done with a pruner, otherwise a garden hacksaw is used.
Note: there are a number of nuances that you should not forget about when cutting a branch “on a ring”. Do not leave an excessively long process and trim flush with the bark. Pruning is considered correct along the outer edge of the ring, which is formed by the influx of bark at the junction of the shoot with the trunk.
- "On the side branch." This type of pruning is the least traumatic for fruit trees and retains most of their viable functions. Its direct purpose is to change the direction of growth from one shoot to another. There is a complete pruning of incapacitated branches, due to which all the main functions are taken over by the side branches, gradually replacing the main ones.
Types of pruning fruit trees
In addition to various technological aspects of pruning, there are also types of this process that determine the further development of the fruit tree and its yield:
- Formative. All actions are aimed at designing the future crown, as a result, the necessary density and shape should be formed. The most successful time for such pruning is February, early March. As a result, during the period of active juice movement, which begins at the end of March, the fruit tree will be as fruitful as possible. Late formative pruning will cause a delay in the development of the plant or the absence of a crop as such.
Important: properly designed skeletal (guide) branches, during the entire growth and development of the plant, will serve as a reliable frame that is resistant to any load, which will withstand even the most difficult crop.
- Regulatory. Suitable for an actively developing tree that needs minimal adjustment. In proper condition, the illumination of the crown and the density of young shoots should be maintained. Potentially successful period: February-April or August-September. In any of these periods, a fresh cut is quickly tightened and does not release tree sap.
- anti-aging the view is intended for old trees. The main goal is to restore active fruiting. Pruning time: early spring and late autumn. Such pruning is effective in stimulating the growth of new shoots and restoring the vitality of a fading tree. Even if the "adult" tree gives a good harvest, it still needs rejuvenating pruning from time to time, awakening adventitious buds.
Seasonal pruning has a number of nuances that should be considered in order to avoid harming the fruit tree.
Pruning fruit trees in spring
- Spring is the most productive and successful season for pruning fruit trees. It is important to wait for the period of final temperature change after winter so that the last frosts pass. Pruning must be done strictly until the first buds swell. Dry weather with temperatures above 0° is ideal. Pruning of fruit trees should be carried out in the following sequence:
- Pruning begins with older trees. After all, they are the main fruit-bearing composition. And only after that you can cut young seedlings. The reason lies in the different periods of awakening of the kidneys.
- If apple trees grow on the site, you need to start with them. After all, it is this tree that is most resistant to frost, and if the temperature drops again, this tree will not suffer after pruning, unlike others. But it is better to cut pear and cherry closer to May.
- Regarding shoots, pruning starts with the least promising ones. What does it mean? Dry or damaged by frost, as well as by insects that have intersections with others, these are shoots that interfere with the normal functioning of the crown.
- Large fruit branches are cut down only with the option: “on the ring”. The cut point must be covered with a special solution or wet clay - so it will drag on faster and will not harm the entire tree.
summer tree pruning
The process of pruning fruit trees is quite possible to carry out in the summer. The main purpose of such a procedure is only a slight adjustment regarding branches damaged by frost, in case they were not detected in early spring. Indeed, during the period of active flowering, it is much easier to identify flaws.
In addition to stripping incapacitated shoots, a number of activities can be carried out during this period.
- Pinching (clothespin) - the process of cutting off the upper part of the branch. The young shoot is easily cut with garden shears or secateurs.
- Pinching is an adjustment option that is performed when the buds give young shoots and it is enough to break them. The technique is quite similar to standard pruning, the only difference is that pruning occurs without the intervention of garden tools. Surprisingly, it is this option that has a beneficial effect on tightening the place of the cliff, it happens faster and less painfully.
Pruning fruit trees in autumn
- The most favorable period for carrying out the procedure for pruning fruit trees is, of course, autumn. It is thanks to her that the tree is prepared for changes in cold temperatures. The most important goal autumn pruning- this is sanitization, that is, the removal of excess dry, painful and damaged shoots. Through such actions tree pests and microorganisms will not be able to move to a healthy part of the fruit tree.
- Among other things, autumn pruning of trees allows you to create the most effective conditions for ventilation and crown lighting. And the distribution of tree sap on healthy branches will increase the yield for next year.
Note: before the onset of cold weather, all large sections must be treated with a special protective composition, this will favorably affect the speedy healing and preparation for low temperatures. Winter pruning of fruit trees is not recommended.
Fruit tree pruning schemes
Knowing all the principles and types of pruning fruit trees, it is still difficult to imagine where to start the procedure, especially for beginners in the field of gardening. A rough plan for pruning a tree can come to the aid of a non-specialist in this matter.
- First of all, it is worth paying attention to the apical shoots - by removing the thin forks of branches in the form of "crow's feet".
- Next, you should get rid of the crossing of the branches, for this it is necessary to cut the shoots directed towards the soil.
- Particular attention should be paid to the space around the trunk: cut off the branches directed towards it and the young shoots.
- The formation of the crown is done by removing thickening (growing too close) and top branches (shoots from dormant buds).
The described method is ideal for annual pruning of a well-developed tree, but the methods of forming young seedlings and old trees have a number of certain differences.
Pruning young seedlings
- From the moment a young seedling is planted in the ground until the start of fruiting, the main task will be to form a tree frame from skeletal branches, monitor the growth of fresh shoots and lay future fruit formations. To ensure all these points, it is necessary to ensure the growth of the crown - evenly in all directions. Therefore, one-year-old shoots and branches are pruned, thickening the crown array. Actively growing shoots are truncated by 50%, and slower ones by 25%. Thanks to such manipulations, the crown of a young seedling becomes powerful and fruitful in a few years.
- Young seedlings are pruned annually due to their rapid growth. The most successful period for their pruning is considered late autumn. After leaf fall, all damaged and extra shoots are removed. This not only allows you to prepare the tree for winter, but also to achieve high-quality air exchange and crown lighting.
Pruning fruit trees video
Pruning mature fruit trees
- Forming the crown of new plantations is quite easy, the main thing is to follow all the rules. But with regard to old fruit trees, then certain steps should be followed. This is due to the fact that the entire crop on such trees, as a rule, is located at the very top of the crown, the fruits are relatively small size and appear irregularly.
- The painstaking process of revitalizing old fruit trees has been going on for several years, and consists of the following activities.
- In the first year, the crown is pruned several levels down and only from the south side of the tree. All work should be carried out with the aim of transferring the main branches to the side branch.
- In the next season, it is mandatory to trim the "tops" formed during the previous procedure. Otherwise, they will absorb the nutrients that the living part of the tree needs. The removal process is performed "on the ring", while the season does not affect the quality of the procedure.
- In subsequent years, the remaining part of the crown is pruned, and then the "wolves" are cleared.
- The most favorable period for pruning old trees is winter time. This is due to the fact that during this period, fresh sections do not rot and pests cannot start in them.
There are certain nuances, observing which you can carry out high-quality pruning of fruit trees, even if a person is doing it for the first time.
- When carrying out the most rigid pruning (up to 35% of the length of the entire branch), it is imperative to observe a frequency of a year, or even two. Do not forget that the option of deep pruning is very traumatic for the plant, as a result of which a significant part of it may die.
- If you want to achieve the fastest possible growth from a fruit tree, during the pruning period it is necessary to reduce the main number of fruiting buds.
- Do not touch the frozen branches of a fruit tree in winter. It is still recommended to wait until spring - then the picture of the dead areas will be more complete and they can be carefully removed.
- When pruning, it is important to observe the subordination of branches. This means that the number of main and secondary branches must be uniform, otherwise you may end up with an oversaturated branch or an overly thinned crown.
- When cutting branches around the main trunk, you should not leave adjoining branches close to it, i.e. at an acute angle.
- It is important to remember that horizontal branches differ in the maximum level of fruiting. This should be taken into account when pruning fruit trees, to regulate the amount of the crop.
- Sections of large diameter must be treated with a special composition: garden pitch or heteroauxin - this will accelerate the healing of the plant. But the use of oil paint as a coating of sections is not recommended.
- Young trees should be pruned as little as possible - only for the purpose of crown formation. Excessive changes can lead to a deterioration in fruit-bearing properties.
The painstaking work that is associated with pruning fruit trees in the garden pays off over time with a decent harvest of fruit. The most important thing is to adhere to generally accepted recommendations, because a seemingly simple process, in fact, requires the performer not only to comply with the technology, but also to be careful.
The preferred time for pruning is late winter and early spring, before new growth begins. During this period, pruning is carried out in a large number garden plants which include fruit trees.
Pruning trees is necessary to maintain the health of plants, to give them strength and beauty. In fruit-bearing crops, this procedure helps to increase the yield.
The basic rules for pruning any type of tree are: use clean and sharp tools, cut under the diseased areas of the tree, timely processing of the cut.
There are 3 types of pruning:
- thinning. This method of pruning is characterized by the removal of an entire branch. Its pruning is done where it branches off from a larger branch or trunk. This method rarely used, since thinning does not entail stimulation of growth and only reduces the mass of the plant. This method is suitable for decorative purposes so that the plant does not look too massive.
- Non-selective pruning. Its essence lies in cutting the branch anywhere, which will stimulate the dormant buds to grow top shoots. This method helps to increase the density of the plant.
- Selective pruning. According to her, pruning should be done to the nearest bud or side branch. The diameter of the remaining branch is equal to half the diameter of the removed shoot. This method reduces the height of the tree.
How to prune fruit trees
My aunt enjoyed a bountiful harvest of apples from her apple tree for many years. suburban area. But time passed, and the harvest became less and less, until the tree ceased to bear fruit at all. The aunt thought that the climatic conditions were to blame, but the problem was different: she did not cut the branches of the tree.
By pruning the branches of fruitful trees, you relieve the plant of the extra weight of the fruits and allow sunlight to penetrate into the center of the crown. The sun's rays and air penetrating into the center of the crown provide better circulation and do not allow the plant to get sick.
Trimming trees is distinguished by three types of crown:
- tiered with a central conductor
- change-leader
- bowl-shaped
If the tree has not been pruned before fruit formation, then pruning will have to be done more strongly, with cutting and reducing the size of the branches. This is necessary to increase the yield of the tree and create a crown structure that will not bend or break under the weight of the crop.
Trees need to be pruned once a year. Thus, the plant will not suffer from severe pruning after a longer period of time. It is possible to cut as many branches as the tree has grown over the past year.
Important! However, it must be remembered that when pruning old branches formed over the past year, the number of cut branches should not exceed 1/3 of all branches of the plant.
First of all, it is the old branches that should be deleted. If you are dealing with dwarf trees, then do not get carried away with pruning branches as well as ordinary trees. Trees that are smaller than normal grow slower.
Some varieties of apple, pear and plum trees are distinguished by the formation of fruits on medium-sized branches, so if the crown has become too dense, you can safely cut off old and unproductive branches.
Keep an eye on the growth of horizontal branches, as branches that grow vertically, that is, upwards, give a large increase, but their yield decreases.
If branches, also directed vertically, grow downwards, then their productivity will be low due to lack of sunlight. Therefore, shoots that grow up and down should be cut off, leaving horizontal ones.
For a more complete understanding of the tree pruning process, watch the tutorial video for beginners with step-by-step instructions:
How to prune apple and pear trees
It is necessary to cut the tree according to the tiered type of crown. With age, the main shoot may droop due to the heavy fruit, preventing sunlight from reaching the lower branches. In this case, it is worth cutting the top of the main shoot.
In this arrangement, sunlight will penetrate into the center of the crown, and new branches will grow upwards, replacing the cut central trunk. Trim side branches as needed to easily reach any part of the plant.
How to prune a plum
Since the plum is predominantly a bushy tree, it is not possible to form a plant with a central stem from it. Another form of trimming is suitable here - cup-shaped.
If you have hybrids from Japan and America at your disposal, then they need to cut off more branches than plum varieties from Europe. The top should be open for free access of sunlight to the lower branches. If the branches bend too much towards the ground, then they should be shortened.
How to prune peach and apricot
Such fruitful trees are characterized by a large growth of branches, so it is worth pruning them in large quantities to increase the yielding quality criteria. To make it convenient to work with these trees in the future, cut off the top of the crown. Do not forget about the branches that grow close to the ground.
After pruning is complete, do not get carried away with excessive feeding, as the tree will quickly grow new branches because of it. Due to the rapid growth of branches in summer, the tree may suffer in the winter season.
How to prune cherries
In a newly planted cherry, a crown is created with the main conductor, which, in older plants, is removed, and a modified-leader crown replaces the tiered crown type.
Pruning is done like pruning, but not in such a large amount, otherwise in winter the tree will be damaged by the cold, which will certainly affect the life expectancy of the cherry.
Tree pruning is the key to success and an inevitable procedure that every seasoned gardener knows about. Each fruit requires constant and prudent care. Only in this case it will give a bountiful harvest. The purpose of this article, prepared by the editors of the site website, is to briefly explain how to prune trees correctly and professionally.
Why trim
Such fruit trees as apple, pear and stone fruits need pruning. They are extremely demanding. Why prune fruit trees?
Pruning gardeners solve several problems at once:
If little light penetrates the crown, then the branches that are in the body of the crown do not bear fruit, and die off over time. Fruits develop only on those branches where light penetrates.
If pruning was done rarely or not at all, then the fruits will be on inaccessible branches, which are usually high.
Thanks to the operation, the crown is formed correctly. Which leads to the growth of side branches and makes it possible to get more fruit on easily accessible branches.
Basic methods and types of trimming
Pruning a garden is an operation of great importance for the well-being of plants, as well as the quality of the crop. It corrects the metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing the actual resources, and also directing them to the required parts of the tree.
In the process of existence, the fruit is constantly changing, growing at different speeds in different time, reversing forces:
- to strengthen the root system;
- to strengthen the green mass;
- intensive growth;
- for fruiting, as well as flowering;
- protection against diseases;
- to prepare for the stage of calm and so on.
His age, physical condition, state of health changes. Therefore, the goals for which "surgical intervention" is performed are varied, and the type of trimming depends on them.
Based on the indicated goals, six types are divided:
- Anti-aging - prolongs life, and also pushes back aging.
- Forming - models the exterior of the crown.
- Regulating - corrects fruiting.
- Restorative - leads parts of the plant to tone.
- Sanitary - relieves unnecessary burden, and also heals.
- Supportive - rewards with new strength, and also refreshes.
Let's take a closer look at each type.
Restorative
It is performed in order to help revive after, in particular, a strong freezing of branches in winter or after a disease. This type of pruning can be performed at any time, unlike previous methods, for which early spring is considered the best period, as long as sap flow has begun.
As a rule, all types of pruning are used in combination, but the regulating one is used most often. Like all garden work, garden pruning is done at a fixed time. It can be performed both in spring and autumn.
Tree rejuvenation is pruning and thinning at the same time. A similar procedure is used when it is necessary to put in order an old and extremely tall fruit plant. Shortening is the removal of the upper part of single branches, fruits and shoots. Based on the old age of individual fruits and branches, it is necessary to shorten in various ways.
In particular, if the branch is 8-10 years old, then 60-70% of its duration can be cut off. However, not every fruit or branch can be cut in this way; it is necessary to look at whether it is located in the right way. If the branch begins to dry out or grows in the wrong direction, then it should be cut.
True rejuvenation in the spring leads to the fact that there will be fewer branches on them, and then the plant needs less water and minerals per total volume. And the root system of the tree brings all the same amount of fluid and minerals, and ultimately the upper part of the plant, after pruning, gets more fluid and the necessary substances.
Thinning is the cutting of branches into a ring. This is done when the crown is too dense and needs to be thinned out. Often, using this method, branches of the 2nd and 3rd order are cut. Then the tree has more free space.
Formative
In order to have a positive effect from formative pruning, plantings must be allowed to take root well. If the tree was planted in autumn, the first pruning is done in the spring of the next year. When planting in spring, formative pruning should be carried out only a year later, also in the spring about a month before the start of the growing season. But if the plant is exhausted and has not given a good growth, transfer the formative pruning until better times.
Formative pruning aims at the rapid formation of a productive crown and is carried out based on the type of tree within 2-6 years. The important thing is which seedling the plant is budded on and what crown configuration we want to get. The smaller the growth, the weaker it should be pruned, and vice versa.
Shortening the middle trunk and structural branches at a young age helps to improve the relationship between the processes of plant growth in length and width. The structural part of the crown becomes stronger and more resistant to stress in the future than the bark with high uncut shoots.
Regulatory
Regulatory pruning is used in relation to the entire tree, but not to its individual parts, as detailed and updating. Its main goal is to keep the center open by removing crown thickening and intertwining branches, and of course dry, diseased and damaged ones. Intermediaries after the first years of formation should not be pruned, with the exception of slow-growing species that need stimulation by radical pruning.
Structural branches, lateral growths and fruits should also not constrain one another. In an adult tree, branches of the first order should not be placed closer to each other than 50 centimeters. At the same distance, it is necessary to leave smaller branches, and the fruits on the 1st branch can be broken at least 25 centimeters.
If a mature tree, as a result of weak pruning, becomes excessively fruitful (in other words, the fruits become small), drastic pruning should be applied to reduce the number of flower buds and increase new growth. Shorten some of the overly branched fruits, and where they crowd each other, remove some completely. Do more intensive refresh pruning.
Sanitary
Sanitary pruning is performed to remove unhealthy and withered branches and branches. The main goal is:
- Destruction of dried branches and branches for safety. Under the influence of the wind, dried branches can fall at the same time, damaging communication lines, transport, structures and causing damage to a person;
- Removal of unhealthy branches and branches that can become the root cause of the disease. Sanitary pruning makes it possible to heal the plant and preserve its health;
supportive
When the plants have reached the desired size and shape, it is time for regular or maintenance pruning. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure that the branches do not go beyond the boundaries intended for the plant and that the crown does not turn out to be too dense or too rare.
Over the years, some branches begin to hang down, they must be selectively removed. In beautifully blooming trees, one should not allow unnecessary overload of the crown with generative branches, especially those located in the part shaded by other branches. They will not give good flowers, and the plant will be weakened.
After flowering is completed, all wilted inflorescences must be removed. First of all, they spoil the exterior, and secondly, seed ripening is associated with a large waste of organic matter.
The plant depletes the appearance of replacement shoots (tops) and root descendants on the trunk and in the crown, which also need to be eliminated, and the sooner this is completed, the better.
When to prune trees
According to the seasons, they determine: spring, summer, autumn, and also winter pruning, however, the latter must be used with extreme caution, due to the fact that with the onset of frost, the life process of the plant slows down and each mechanical intervention is fraught with subsequent diseases and simply death.
spring
How to prune in the spring: the main volume of the pruning stroke is brought to March, as well as the beginning of April. The main goal of the whole procedure is to reduce large branches in order to avoid their overload during fruiting and start the growth of young shoots. We should not forget about the extra thickening of the plant, when small shoots "clog" the inside of the crown.
Such young shoots should be removed immediately, and one should not forget about large, skeleton-forming branches, since an improperly built skeleton negatively affects the future general condition of the tree and its fruiting.
Summer
It is used very rarely, since there is a decrease in the leaf surface and an increase in complex substances (results of assimilation), thus weakening growth as well as formation. As a result, the later summer pruning is performed, the stronger its negative impact manifests itself. However, in some cases it may be useful.
For example, sanitary pruning is facilitated, since in summer time dried, frozen branches are clearly visible. In addition, pruning in early summer is needed if it is necessary to weaken the restoration process, after the process of reducing the height of the crown.
It is allowed to perform anti-aging pruning of stone fruit trees (cherry, sweet cherry, apricot) at the very beginning of summer, since at this time they can most accurately detect the load of the current crop on the tree, as well as create favorable conditions for the formation of overgrowing branches.
autumn
It is performed only in areas with mild climatic conditions. In the northern regions of Russia, it is not advisable to carry out such work: the trees may not recover before the cold weather, from which the cuts will freeze. Ultimately, their bark will dry out, and the spring growth of young shoots will be impossible.
In autumn, only mature trees should be pruned, as this time of year is not a very suitable solution for pruning young seedlings.
In addition, autumn is not suitable for pruning young seedlings. They can only be pruned in the spring. Some gardeners believe that autumn pruning should be carried out in September and October. But professionals insist that it must be performed in late October - early November - at a time when sap flow is inhibited in the body of plants.
When choosing a seedling, you need to pay attention to how many branches it has. If there are many, then you can easily choose 5-6 main ones.
The lower tier of branches on the trunk should be removed.
The height from the root neck to the beginning of the shoots should be 25-40 centimeters. Branches protruding from above are also eliminated. Sections are smeared with paint based on drying oil or garden pitch.
Removal is carried out "on the ring". Even small stumps should not be left, as this will cause the extinction of the bark around the knot. Further, gum is formed at the cut site, then a hollow. During frost, the damage process will worsen.
In the southern regions, autumn pruning is even desirable for spring unloading. Pre-winter pruning is maintained by undersized frost-resistant fruit varieties, and of course blackberries, raspberries, currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle, viburnum, lemongrass, grapes (in the covering zone).
Winter
In winter, certain standards should be met:
- the most suitable for pruning is the time when the air temperature is not less than minus 7 degrees Celsius;
- the most frost-resistant plants begin to prune, as a rule, these are seed-bearing species, including apple trees. Then they proceed to stone fruits: cherries, plums and others;
- pruning begins with young seedlings to form a true crown.
- when pruning garden trees in winter, they try to achieve perfect sizes (in width, as well as the height of the tree crown - 3 meters for apple and pear trees, 2 and a half for plums and 2 meters for cherries);
- rejuvenation must be carried out for trees whose age exceeds ten years.
Conclusion
Pruning of fruit trees must be carried out annually, starting from a 2-year-old seedling. It affects growth fruit crops, the beginning of the timing of entry into fruiting, the quality of the fruit, and the amount of the crop. If it is not carried out, then after some time the trees thicken, as a result, the fruits decrease, and the trees do not bear fruit every season.
Pruning apple trees is a technique that every gardener needs to own.
By pruning at random, without knowing the rules, gardeners can cause irreparable damage to fruit trees.
Competent pruning is an important element in the formation of a well-groomed, consistently fruitful apple orchard.
Before you properly prune an apple tree, it is necessary to carefully study the methods of trimming and their types.
Trimming types
Pruning can be formative, sanitary, rejuvenating and regulating. Formative pruning creates a strong skeleton for the tree, on which only strong, fruit-bearing branches remain. Sanitary pruning is designed to clear the tree of damaged and incorrectly growing branches.
Rejuvenation - removal of old fruit branches. Via regulating pruning the height of the apple tree is restrained, the crown is thinned out, fruiting is regulated.
By intensity, trimming methods are divided into pinching, weak, medium and strong.
- Pinching is used with the active development of annual green growths.
- With weak pruning on young trees, the growth of new shoots is stimulated, skeletal branches are cut off by one quarter.
- With medium pruning, branches are pruned one third. Apply this method on mature apple trees that are more than five years old.
- Strong pruning involves the complete removal of a large number of branches. This is how the crowns of mature trees thin out.
Basic tricks
Trimming on a ring
This technique is used when you want to completely delete a branch. At the point of growth, each branch has an annular outgrowth.
In this place, tissue cells are able to actively divide, so the cut made on the ring heals quickly. It is important to make an even, clean cut. so that about half of the ring remains on the branch, and half on the base.
You can’t cut too far from the base - a stump will remain. The consequence of such pruning is that the stump will dry out, fall out and form a hollow. You can not completely cut the ring from the base, delving into the cambium - this injures the tree.
Pruning on the kidney
With partial removal of branches, pruning to the outer bud allows you to expand the crown, reduce the degree of its density.
A cut on a kidney looking inside the crown is used to shoots began to grow inward and the crown became dense.
The correct cutting distance is no more than 50 mm from the selected kidney. Exceed this distance - there will be a stump, underestimate - there is a possibility of damage to the kidney.
Slicing follows immediately cover with garden pitch, oil paint or drying oil, so that the infection does not damage the wound.
Example correct pruning on the kidney.
Large ring sections it is better to pre-disinfect with antifungal drugs, for example, a solution of copper sulfate or iron sulfate (three or five%, respectively).
Terms of work
The timing of pruning is determined by the needs of the trees, not the grower. The best time for work is the very beginning of sap flow. Pruning of trees begins in spring from mid-April and continues until the moment of bud break..
Advice! In early summer, it is convenient to carry out sanitary pruning, as it becomes clearly visible which shoot survived the winter and which one froze.
During this period, it is easy to identify branches infected with infection or pests. In August, pruning can be done in areas where spring return frosts are common. This will slow down the beginning of the tree's vegetation for the next season, and will allow you to save fruit buds.
A good time for pruning apple trees is autumn, when the leaves and fruits have already been shed. The main thing that the next two to three weeks the air temperature did not drop below ten degrees. In the south, in climates with warm winters, the pruning period can continue until February.
Based on the timing of work, methods and types of pruning, you can draw up work schemes in different seasons.
Apple tree pruning scheme for beginners
How to prune apple tree branches in spring?
spring main tasks of the gardener- elimination of the consequences of wintering apple trees, their preparation for the new season. Sanitary pruning is carried out, young apple trees form:
- All broken, burned and frostbitten branches are removed;
- Branches badly damaged by infections or pests are completely destroyed;
- Branches growing inside the crown and forming an acute angle with the trunk are removed;
- Old trees can be rejuvenated;
- Heavy or medium adjustment pruning is carried out, if necessary.
By carrying out regulating pruning in the spring, you can control the amount of the crop. If the previous year the tree gave big harvest, it laid some flower buds. In this case, spring regulatory pruning is not needed.
If the previous year was not rich in harvest, then in spring, the tree must be pruned quite strongly. So the apple tree will have as many fruits as it can grow without spending excessive effort.
How to prune apple trees in summer?
Cardinal pruning is possible only as a reaction to negative natural phenomena.
- Early summer- time to remove diseased branches if the degree of their damage was not visible in the spring;
- End of June- pinch the rapidly growing green shoots so that they do not take food from the main skeleton of the plant, do not shade the crown;
- Anytime those branches that are broken or cracked under the influence of natural factors or the severity of the crop are cut;
- End of summer- old branches of adult plants are removed, on which few apples have formed and those that shade young fruit-bearing branches;
- End of summer- prune fruit-bearing trees to slow down the start of the growing season next season, if necessary.
If there are no sick and broken branches on the apple trees, in the summer you can limit yourself to only that pruning that regulates the density of the crown. Knowing how to prune an apple tree during the summer months achieve a successful harvest.
How to prune apple trees in autumn?
You can do all those pruning work for which there was not enough time in spring and summer:
- Branches broken by the wind are removed;
- Branches that have broken or cracked under the weight of the fruit are removed;
- After fruiting, sanitary pruning is carried out, designed to get rid of the consequences of harvesting;
- Anti-aging pruning of old apple trees is carried out;
- If during the fruiting period on adult apple trees branches were seen on which the crop was practically absent, they should be removed;
- Branches on which small and deformed fruits have grown are removed;
- Branches that obscure the main fruitful shoots are removed;
- Branches heavily affected by pests, bacterial or fungal infection are removed.
Advice! There is no universal pruning scheme; focus on the individual needs of each apple tree.
The need for pruning depends on many factors. One of them is the age of the orchard.
How to file apple trees of different ages?
Having decided to prune a young apple tree, the gardener sets himself the goal of laying a good foundation for its further development. An old fruit tree is pruned to enhance fruiting, remove crown defects, save vitality for further growth. Most of the work associated with pruning adult apple trees is aimed at getting rid of diseases and pests.
Although the methods and types of pruning of young and mature trees are the same, the technology of work is different. Consider further how to prune an apple tree by year
annual apple tree
The gardener at this stage has two tasks: to restrain the growth height of the central shoot so that the skeletal side branches develop well, and to form a trunk. Formative pruning of young apple trees should begin one year after planting.
At the age of one year, the seedling consists of a trunk and 2-3 branches. If the central trunk is cut at a height of 0.8 - 1 meter, the growth of lateral shoots will increase. Long skeletal branches must be shortened. Each of them should be shorter by 16-20 cm than the height of the trunk, have three to five buds.
To form the correct trunk, shoots that grow on a seedling at a distance of 40-50 cm from the ground must be removed. Branches that have an angle of up to 60 degrees at the point of growth will not be able to form a good skeleton on their own. They can be dealt with in two ways: remove or try to make them horizontal.
biennial apple tree
If you are thinking about how to prune a 2-year-old apple tree, then you should know that pruning helps to properly lay the tiers of skeletal branches.
The shape of the crown - any, except for the cup-shaped, suggests the presence of two to five large branches on each tier. The interval between the formed levels is approximately 40 - 60 cm and depends on the expected height of the tree.
The branches of each level should be located at approximately equal distance from each other relative to the circumference of the tier. In a two-year-old seedling, skeletal branches are shortened.
If a decision is made to form an apple tree in the form of a bowl, then in the second year of life, the seedling completely remove the central trunk. The cut is made over the first fork of the branches.
In the absence of a center, its role will be taken over by the side branches. An apple tree will be formed, consisting of 2-4 trunks, depending on the number of skeletal branches on the first tier.
Until the age of five, the crown continues to form.
adult apple tree
Starting from the age of five, - the main pruning, which is carried out on fruit trees. Before you start it, make sanitary pruning. When the apple tree is peeled, they begin to rejuvenate:
- Cut off all old branches that are no longer able to produce apples of varietal size and quality;
- Part of the tops is cut out;
- Crossing branches are cut into the ring;
- All branches directed inward and downward are removed;
- The basal and growth near the trunk is destroyed;
The last stage of anti-aging procedures is the shortening of the trunk. Tall trees can be cut to 3.5 - 2.5 meters without damaging the intensity of fruiting. Removing the top allows light to enter the crown, helps to increase the quality of fruits and their quantity.
Important! If the apple tree is more than eight years old, anti-aging pruning should not be done at a time. Losing a large amount of vegetative mass at the same time is a big stress for an old tree.. It is better to distribute the work over several years.
Pruning apple trees on dwarf and columnar rootstocks have their own characteristics.
How to prune a dwarf apple tree?
On a dwarf rootstock, apple trees give abundant harvests, they begin to bear fruit earlier. If dwarf fruit trees are not pruned, their total fruiting period can be reduced to 3 to 5 years.
In the first year of life, the crown skeleton is formed by trimming the trunk. The cut height depends on the variety and is 40-70 cm. The side shoots are cut so that the crown visually looks like ball, cap or triangle.
The closer to the top of the apple tree, the stronger the branches develop. Strong upper branches are shortened, which stimulates the growth and development of shoots in the center of the crown. Tree branches on dwarf rootstocks, if they are healthy, rarely cut completely. Most often, two to four kidneys are left on them.
As soon as the apple tree begins to bear fruit, the number of flower buds should be regulated so as not to overload the apple tree with fruits. Under the weight of fruits, dwarf varieties can be threatened not only with a fracture of the branches. A tree can uproot itself from the ground.
How to prune a columnar apple tree
The shape of the crown of columnar apple trees is special. The width of such a tree does not exceed 50 cm, it has no long lateral branches. Regular pruning columns are not required. But sometimes the apple tree needs pruning.
Damage to the top of the trunk
Top damage - one of the most common problems columnar apple tree. Damage is usually caused by frost and pests, then by the beginning of the season the apical part of the trunk dries up and dies. These processes force gardeners to trim the top.
The peculiarity of pruning shoots at the crown is that it is necessary not only to cut off the central shoot, but also to find a replacement for it. If this is not done, the apple tree forms several trunks on top, will lose the shape of the column. To create a new top, choose the strongest shoot that grows vertically.
The remaining vertical branches are cut off, leaving two to three buds from the base. The former crown is removed at the point of contact with the chosen leader.
To avoid the need for pruning, the top of the columns should be wrapped for the winter.
How to cut an apple tree while maintaining the shape of the crown?
The first year of growth, columnar varieties, as a rule, do not require the gardener to intervene in the process of crown formation. Starting from the age of two, young growths begin to compete with fruit-bearing branches, take food from them.
It is during this period that the gardener must intervene and adjust the ratio of growth of the main branches and increments:
- All the shoots that the apple tree has formed are pinched at the same distance from the trunk, which is 25-30 cm;
- In the third and following years, pinching is carried out at a distance of 30-40 cm;
- Starting from the fourth year, three-year branches are partially removed.
The features of pruning side shoots are that with systematic pinching, the columnar apple tree will not need pruning. Since pinching is a more gentle procedure, the apple tree is not injured, does not experience stress.
Attention! Full wrapping of columnar apple trees with covering material in several layers for the winter is recommended. So, during the period of severe frosts and sharp temperature fluctuations, flower buds, the trunk and, most importantly, the bark of the apple tree will not suffer.
The need for special supportive care is experienced by any apple tree after the pruning procedure.
How to prune an apple tree: video of the correct technique
If you do not know how to properly prune an apple tree, we recommend watching this video:
Watch this video for details and details. spring pruning apple trees:
Apple tree care after pruning
After pruning, fruit trees need watering and top dressing. If pruning was carried out in the spring, it is necessary to add fertilizers to the soil of the trunk circle, which contain nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in equal parts.
After autumn pruning, fertilizers are applied, which contain potassium and phosphorus - they stimulate wound healing, strengthen the bark of the apple tree. Nitrogen fertilizers in autumn period should be avoided.
The introduction of nitrogen in the fall will give impetus to the development of new shoots, as a result, the wood of annual growths will not have time to fully mature, the apple tree will not prepare for wintering. As a result, cuts made in the fall may be susceptible to frostbite.
When fertilizing, fertilizer application rates should be strictly observed. Overfertilizing apple trees will do more harm than good.
Apple pruning plan.
How to prune an apple tree by year.
How to prune an apple tree in autumn.
How to prune apple trees to form a tree crown.
Instead of a conclusion
When preparing to prune an apple tree, it must be remembered that by cutting each branch, one should answer the question “why?”. There is an answer - cut. The answer is no, so this branch can remain on the apple tree.
If a bacterial or fungal infection rages in the area - garden pruning should be postponed. Each slice is a potential entry point for microbes.
Proper pruning is the key to the health and fertility of the orchard.
In contact with
Free-growing palmette with two tiers of branches is recommended for the formation of pear trees on vigorous rootstocks.
The crown consists of a central conductor and four skeletal branches, placed in the plane of the row in two tiers, two branches each, with the predominant development of branches in the first tier. In the second tier, a single placement of branches is also acceptable, that is, two branches at a distance of 20 cm from each other. During the period of the beginning of fruiting, in the space between the tiers and above the second tier, fruit branches up to 1.2 m long are located.
The height of the bole is 60 cm. For branches of the first tier, shoots with an angle of departure of 45-50 ° are selected.
If the selected branches have sharp departure angles, then by the end of the second growing season they put a spacer on them, and the tops are tied to the central conductor. In order to lay the next tier of crown branches during winter pruning, the central conductor is shortened. The distances between the tiers should be 90-110 cm. The first 4-6 years after planting, green operations are carried out on the branches of the first and second tiers.
At the same time, young, still non-lignified shoots (competitors), which have reached a length of 5-8 cm, break out first at the base of the conductors of skeletal branches, and then on inside each skeletal branch.
In varieties with weak branching, with a pronounced vertical growth of shoots, if it is necessary to form permanent fruit branches, strongly growing shoots are rejected to a horizontal position and 2-3 vigorous shoots are tied into a horizontally located bundle. There can be 3-4 such beams at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other.
During winter pruning, vigorous branches with very sharp angles of discharge are cut out onto the ring, conductors of skeletal branches are removed. In varieties that form fruit buds on two-year-old wood and on the rings of the main branches, a slight shortening of the conductors of the skeletal branches is allowed until the end of the crown formation period, which prevents them from lowering.
During the period of full fruiting, the height of the fruit wall is 2.5-3.5 m, the width is 2-2.5 m. The support can be temporary in the form of wooden poles 1.5 m long, which are installed for the period of crown formation.
Fan palmette is used in trellis-dwarf pear plantations. The crown has five to eight main branches of the first order. The conductor does not dominate. Two or three lower branches can make up a tier, others are placed one by one at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. They are all aligned in a row.
When thinning the crown, competitors are removed, strong branches of the second order, branches with sharp angles of departure. On the 3-4th year after planting, the main branches in summer begin to bend under the mass of fruits, so they are tied to a wire, evenly distributed along the trellis support.
Crown formation systems for trees on low-growing rootstocks in dense stands
In modern horticulture, crown formation systems are most common, which provide the opportunity to increase planting density, regularly restore fruit-forming branches and maintain their optimal age ratio. Such crowns (skeletal part) are represented only by a skeletal conductor or are supplemented by skeletal branches-holders (35-40 cm), depending on the type of crown, on which temporary fruit branches (fruit links) are formed, similar to grape fruit links, but with a three-year life cycle . These branches are removed after fruiting.
Slender spindle (grossback): pear is grown on dwarf rootstocks with a planting density of 1250 to 3000 trees per 1 ha and a planting pattern of 3-4 × 1-2 m, width - 1-1.5 m. When forming crowns like a slender spindle , in addition to a common wire support, it is recommended to install long poles near each tree.
In the first year after planting, branched annual seedlings in the spring in the trunk area at a height of 40-50 cm from the soil surface cut out all the branches. Above the trunk (in the crown zone), strong branches are removed with an origin angle of less than 45 °. If there are not enough branches, they are left and tied up obliquely, giving an angle of 60-70 °. Then shorten the center conductor. The more branches on the planted plant, the higher the conductor is shortened. If there are 4-5 suitable branches, it is cut at a height of 100-110 cm from the ground surface, if three - at a height of 90 cm, if two - at a height of 80 cm. 65-70 cm, with a weak one - by 40-50 cm. When shortening unbranched one-year-olds, it is necessary to take into account the degree of shoot formation of varieties and the fact that competitors (from 1 to 3) are attached to the formation process.
How short pruning, the more branches at an acute angle appear in the crown zone, which makes shaping difficult. With excessively long pruning, high boles can form and, as a result, tree slopes.
During the growing season, the growths formed on the trunk are removed. At the end of June - beginning of July in the zone
crowns tie up strong shoots, giving them an inclined position. If many lateral branches are formed, then they are given a position close to horizontal with a garter. This allows you to increase the volume of the crown and, accordingly, the area of the leaves, the number of generative formations. When planting with unbranched seedlings, the conductor and the nearest competitor, upon reaching 10-15 cm, are cut off above the lower competitor, leaving it as a conductor. During the growing season, it is pinched, sometimes several times, for better development of the lower branches.
In the second year of life, if the previous year's pruning was carried out high and the overgrown branches grew much higher than the planned trunk length, the tree should be shortened again by two years of wood above the upper side branch, which leaves at an angle of about 60 °. The extension shoot is cut along with competitors to induce fouling where needed. With normal fouling, the continuation shoot is replaced by one of the lower competitors. With moderate growth in varieties that branch well, the continuation shoot is shortened. It is very important that at the base of the crown there are 3-4 slightly raised, fairly strong branches with an angle of departure of 60-70 °, from which semi-skeletal formations are formed 60 cm long towards the row and up to 1.2 m at an angle to the axis of the row.
Above these branches, semi-skeletal wood is formed in a spiral, and the higher up the trunk, the shorter the branches should be, so that the tree resembles a spindle in shape.
In the third year after planting, all competitors on the central conductor are first removed, that is, the central conductor is removed, and then in the central and lower parts of the crown, strong branches with an acute discharge angle are removed on the trunk, as well as damaged and diseased ones. In varieties with weak branching, all branches are bent, and the conductor is shortened to obtain additional branches.
In the third year, some varieties planted with unbranched annuals begin to bear fruit, and in connection with this, the active growth of shoots slows down a little.
In the fourth year after planting, the nature and sequence of pruning work is practically the same as in the previous year. Along with the separation of the central conductor, the removal of competitors and branches with an acute angle of discharge, parts of the three-year-old branches that have been fertile are removed. In branches older than three years, the fruiting zone moves to the upper part, and the lower part is exposed. In this regard, it is necessary to timely replace fruiting branches already at the age of three and replace them with new one-year growths. Three-year-old branches are now removed to a ring (previously a small knot 1-2 cm long was left), a three-year cycle of growth and fruiting of fruit branches is the most appropriate method for maintaining annual growth in the crown of a tree.
The work on caring for the central conductor is continued until it reaches a height of 2.2-2.4 m, after which it is shortened at a height of 2 m by transferring to a lateral annual growth. On the 4-5th year after planting, when the growth of the trees weakens, shortening of 2-3 constantly growing fruit branches remaining at the base of the crown is carried out. Semi-skeletal branches should have the largest angle of departure, and the diameter of the base should be equal to half the diameter of the trunk at the points of their departure.
Thinning intensifies in the fifth year of the growing season. Cut out, first of all, strong and too weak branches. After the first years of fruiting, the lower branches sag and the weakest ones are removed, the semi-skeletal ones are cut to the side branches, and if necessary to strengthen them, to the upper branch. Shorten, bringing closer to the trunk, branches in the middle part of the crown. Strong branches are cut in the upper part of the tree, the length of the remaining ones should not exceed 40-45 cm. If necessary, green operations are carried out during the growing season. During the period of full fruiting, one tree should have 40-60 one-, three-year-old branches.
V further work on Crown care consists in the constant cutting of three-year-old fruiting branches and the cultivation of new rejuvenating growths in their place. If necessary, a light rejuvenating pruning of semi-skeletal branches growing at the base of the crown, which carry the bulk of the crop, is carried out.
Free spindle (freely growing spindle): the crown is formed from a central conductor and 3-4 permanent branches of a semi-skeletal type 40-50 cm long, the progressive growth of which is limited by transfer to lateral branches. Such a crown is created without artificial deviation of the branches.
See also: How to properly prune fruit trees in the garden
Above the tier of permanent branches, fruit branches are formed at the age of up to 3 years. When forming a freely growing spindle, the main requirements are reduced to right choice permanent branches and regulation of the age ratio of fruit-bearing wood. During the fruiting period, thinning of crowns is carried out in places of their thickening, top shoots with a vertical orientation and fruit branches older than three years old, which have already bore fruit, are removed.
In varieties with weak branching, they are cut off by transferring to young wood or a stump (4-6 cm) is left, from the dormant buds of which new shoots are formed. The height of the trees during the period of full fruiting is limited at the level of 2.5-3 m, the diameter of the crown is maintained at such a level that there is a free passage for garden equipment between the rows.
The technology provides a fruit yield of 35-40 t/ha. Planting scheme 4 × 1-2 m. The time of entry into fruiting is the 2-3rd year, the period of productive use is 12-15 years.
Pillar (pillar, column-like form) is a column-like low-volume formation. The crown, formed according to the pillar type, consists of a well-branched central conductor, directly on which the overgrown wood is located, constantly updated so that the age of the fruitful branches does not exceed 3 years. This system is designed for low growing trees. Planting pattern 2×1 m. Constantly renewed fruit wood ensures high commercial quality of fruits.
After planting, annual seedlings are crowned at a height of 80-100 cm, competitors and the strongest branches are cut out, as well as those that form in the bole zone, to a height of 30-40 cm. Annually, 4-5 new annual branches of medium length are left, for which the central conductor in varieties with weak branching is cut annually by 1/3.
Biennial branches are shortened, leaving 2-3 buds. Of the two shoots formed the following year, the weak one is left, and the strong one is again shortened by 2-3 buds. Ringlets with fruit buds are laid on unshortened branches, and two shoots grow again from the left buds on the next cut branch. In the next growing season, a branch with ringlets forms fruits, one of last year's branches is left for fruiting next year. The second branch is cut short again. On the next year the fruiting branch is cut out, the branch with the last year's annulus begins to bear fruit, and two shoots are again formed from the two buds of the cut branch. Gradually, the branches of the upper part of the crown are attracted to the formation of such links. So that the bottom of the crown is not exposed, the fruiting branches are cut into a stump 2-2.5 cm long. As a rule, 2-3 shoots grow on it, of which only one is left during pruning, as a branch that replaces the removed one, and a new one is formed by appropriate pruning link. In total, 20-30 links are formed on a tree 2-2.5 m high.
There are no branches older than 3 years in the pillar crown, which makes it possible to maintain a high marketability of fruits.
At the Crimean experimental station developed new technology self-supporting cultivation of apple and pear trees on slo-boros rootstocks - a standard pyramid (author L. B. Tankevich). Planting features allow you to create a stable structure, which consists of three trees, which stimulates the precocity of varieties, ensures their high yield. Any support with this method of landing is excluded. The role of supporting devices is performed by the trees themselves, which, after mutual interweaving during planting, create a fairly stable structure.
In physiological terms, the advantage of this method lies in the fact that the features of plant placement create the most favorable conditions for the active laying of fruit formations due to the redistribution of plastic substances already in the first year after planting.
The biological construction “standard pyramid” does not provide for the use of fruit branches older than three years during the fruiting period. The high efficiency of growing such a garden is achieved by using branched seedlings of varieties that are able to lay fruit buds on the growth of the previous year. When planting using the “standard pyramid” method, from 2.8 to 4.9 thousand trees are placed per 1 ha. When such plantations are established with knip-baum seedlings or with fruit formations and the support of agricultural technology at a high level, their fruiting is possible already in the first growing season.
Basic techniques for pruning any type
There are two main methods of pruning - shortening the branches and thinning the crown. They are combined with auxiliary shaping techniques: branch tilting, pinching, breaking out shoots, banding, bending branches and shoots, tying, and so on.
When shortening (cutting), a part of a branch or one-year growth is removed.
Shortening weakens the tendencies of apical growth and stimulates branching, reduces the growth of trees in height and width, making them more compact, reduces the frequency of fruiting, and improves the quality of fruits. However, a strong shortening can cause a later entry of trees into commercial fruiting. Therefore, in a young garden, such pruning should be carried out only on individual branches that need to be weakened, and follow the principle - a minimum of pruning before the tree enters fruiting.
Annual growths are shortened depending on the age of the trunk, rootstock, varietal characteristics and natural conditions of the garden. Shortening by 1/4-1/5 of the length of annual growth is considered weak, by 1/3 - moderate, by 1/2-2/3 of the length - strong.
Heavy pruning is most effective during full fruiting and on aging pear trees that have stopped growing. Shortening branches during this period by 3-5-year-old wood stimulates the rejuvenation of plants and slows down the aging process in them.
Thinning involves the removal of whole growth shoots or branches completely into a ring. This technique improves the illumination in the middle of the crown and, as a result, increases the productivity of the leaf apparatus, the yield of the plant and the quality of its fruits. In addition, thinning improves the conditions for protecting plants from diseases and pests.
Thinning does not stimulate the creation of vegetative shoots on the pods, does not cause noticeable growth of the remaining branches, but is favorable for the formation of stronger, more productive pods, which occurs as a result of the redistribution of nutrients.
thinning can be strong, medium and weak. With strong, large skeletal branches are removed or a large number of overgrown, withered, broken and intertwined branches, competing shoots-wen, branches damaged by pests and diseases, as well as those that grow low and sag, interfering with mechanized soil cultivation.
With medium thinning, fattening shoots and semi-skeletal branches are cut out, shading the inner part of the crown, with weak thinning, annual shoots and dry branches.
Many > varieties of pear (you can read more about pear varieties for summer cottages in the article “Choosing varieties of pears for planting and propagation in the country”) during the productive period form an excess number of branching annelids and fruitlets (Zolotovorotskaya, Striyskaya, Yablunivska, etc.), which it is necessary to thin out, removing them on the ring so that the remaining ones are located at a distance of 5-10 cm from each other. First of all, the weak ones, damaged by diseases and pests, located on the lower part of the branch, are removed. This technique facilitates the setting of fruits, they become larger, their taste qualities improve.
When pruning by transfer to perennial wood, a branch or twig is shortened above one of the lateral, external or internal branches in order to give the remaining branch a certain direction of growth. It should be borne in mind that a pear, unlike an apple tree, does not tolerate a strong shortening of annual growth and young branches at a young age.
Branches that are too pruned tend to give a strong burst of growth at the expense of crown formation, which leads to a delay in commercial fruiting.
Below are other entries on the topic "Dacha and garden - with your own hands"
Garden and cottage › Encyclopedia of gardening - fruit trees › Pear › How to properly shape pear pruning
Everyone boasts that they have a good harvest of apples this year. But we were not lucky and there were no apples this year.
A few days ago, on the topic of apples, apple trees and autumn, I talked with my friend Andrei and he opened his eyes to many things. Andrei has a large garden in the village, apple trees are very different, apples are very tasty from early to very late, which are stored until spring.
It turns out that many factors affect the harvest of apples, but the most important is the “haircut” of the apple tree.
Now is the time the best time for cutting.
How often should apple trees be pruned?
A. - Every year. It is best to do this in the fall, right now, from mid-October, as the harvest is harvested, and until mid-November, or rather, before the first round-the-clock frosts. If for some reason they did not have time to do this, then you can cut it off in March. But only until the middle of the month. Although now it happens that in March it is already warm. It would be more accurate if I say that in the spring it is necessary to have time to cut off before the buds swell. As soon as the earth has thawed well, the trees gain moisture, are saturated with the juices of the earth and the buds begin to swell, it is no longer possible to cut.
At the recommended time, pruning is easily tolerated, almost painlessly.
- What is the best way to treat wounds after pruning?
A. - Wounds with a diameter of up to 3 cm are best covered with the simplest plasticine or rubbed with a soft wax candle.
All wounds that are larger than 3 cm must be painted over with the most common oil paint on natural drying oil.
- Or maybe buy some kind of garden pitch, designed for processing saw cuts?
A. - If you do not feel sorry for the trees, then you can buy a garden pitch. But research scientists have shown that almost all of these vars harm fruit trees. I have been using oil paint for a long time and all the trees are alive after pruning.
- How to determine for a simple gardener-gardener which branches should be cut?
A. - Extra branches are always visible to an experienced eye. Needless to say, the first step is to cut dry, broken, frostbite, diseased and damaged branches.
And then you need to decide which branches are superfluous. This is a more difficult task.
It is important to know the four "don'ts":
1. It is impossible for young branches to grow close to each other and cross, otherwise, as they grow, they will interfere with each other and injure one another.
2. It is impossible for branches to grow vertically one above the other. They should be staggered along the crown, and perfect option when a fruit tree has one trunk, which diverges into three fruit-bearing branches.
3. It is impossible to allow the growth of fruit-bearing branches inside the crown. They will interfere, clog, thicken, and over time, the apples on the entire tree will be small.
4. It is impossible to allow the growth of branches at an acute angle to the alignment of the tree. During a good harvest, they are usually torn off the trunk. There is a so-called splitting of the tree. The most correct and reliable is the growth angle of 45 degrees or more.
Here, taking into account these "impossible" and it is necessary to cut the apple trees. There is nothing difficult.
Should young shoots be cut off?
A. - If the tree is young, 5-7 years old, has a good crown and bears fruit well, then young shoots must be removed. If the tree is older, then all young shoots should not be removed. It is necessary to leave a few pieces, but observing the above.
If a young strong shoot has grown a lot over the summer, then it should be shortened, but if it has grown in the place where it is needed, but its length is not more than 30 cm, then such a shoot should not be cut.
If you look closely at the tree, then not every branch bears fruit. There are so-called fruit twigs, spears, kolchatka. The tree is worth watching, such branches should be noticed. They are the ones that produce the crop. Large branches are the material, the basis of the tree on which fruit-bearing branches grow. All these fruit-bearing branches should not be cut.
- Where and how to make a cut?
A. - It is important to know that if you make a low cut, the kidney may dry out and the trunk will begin to die around.
If you make a cut high, then a stump is formed. And hemp, as a rule, is the cause of the appearance of a hollow in a tree, and a high cut does not grow well. The cut should be oblique, parallel to the trunk. The top of the cut should be at the top of the kidney, and the bottom at the base.
- Which apple and pear trees should be preferred: tall or short?
A. - We most often grow tall varieties of apple and pear trees, despite the fact that it is inconvenient even when harvesting, and with the increasing strong summer winds, tall trees often suffer. But tall people can be made into short ones. It is important to know some of the nuances here. Until young trees have reached a height of 4 meters, they should not be shortened. But as soon as the tree has reached this height, the central conductor or trunk can be cut. That is, cut off the top. You can cut both at a height of 4 meters, or you can underestimate up to 3. Process, as we said, and let it grow and bear fruit. In the first couple of years there will be a little less apples than on a tall tree, and then it will go in breadth and everything will be fine with the harvest.
Should the lower branches be cut?
A. - I noticed that many gardeners cut off the lower branches, raising the crown. This is more convenient, as they believe, the lower branches do not interfere with plantings that are planted under the trees. I want to say that at least within a radius of 1m from the trunk, it’s not worth planting anything at all. And the lower branches are simply necessary for fruit trees, so they should not be cut. The lower branches bear fruit poorly, but they are protection against solar overheating of the trunk, and the leaves serve additional source nourishment for the whole tree. If 2-3 small weakly fruiting lower branches are preserved on the tree, then the tree will be stronger, more stable, and the apples on it will be large, clean and juicy. The lower branches can be placed on low props for convenience.
What is important to know when pruning trees?
A. - It is impossible to cut thick branches in one go. The branch may begin to break off under its own weight, tear the bark and damage the apple tree. These wounds don't heal well. Therefore, it is more reasonable to cut in two or even three doses.
All cut branches must be burned. Especially the sick.
Everyone good harvests and prepare your garden for the new season right now!
How are your apple crops?
How do you take care of the trees?
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