Have you decided to get into modeling, but don't even know where to start? In this article, we will try to talk about the key nuances of the process, as well as give some tips for beginners that should be refreshed in memory and professionals. First of all, we note that modeling requires enormous effort and a lot of time. To hastily assemble models means to turn them from potentially perfect products into a pitiful semblance of a cheap Chinese fake. If you are ready to work hard to create a real work of art - welcome to the world of modeling! So let's get started.
Where does modeling start?
Of course, with the purchase of the model itself. The catalog of our store contains a lot of kits for beginners and professional modellers. If you don't understand anything about military equipment - choose a model that you just like and seem the easiest for the first assembly. If you are fond of military equipment and are well versed in it, you will surely find in the catalog exactly the model that you have always dreamed of seeing in your collection. If the model of the desired equipment is not available - contact the consultant, it is quite possible that it will be delivered to you on an individual order.
So, the model is selected - it's time to start choosing tools. What will we need? Absolutely everything that is sold in the store, but it is often not possible to buy everything at once, and to assemble one model you may not need the tools that are needed when assembling another. There is a joke among modellers: “Choose tools intuitively, you will forget to buy the most important thing anyway.” Therefore, we will draw your attention only to the key and most necessary tools and materials.
The first thing that every modeler should buy is glue, and professional glue. Superglue and PVA will definitely not work. It is advisable to purchase several glues at once in order to learn how to understand the difference between them already in the process of assembling the first model - it is better to take a second, helium and classic model glue. Next, we get a primer, a file, sandpaper (both with large and with the finest grains). Now pay attention to paints and enamels - for starters, you can buy colors that match the scheme of your model. However, in the future you will need absolutely all the paints and enamels presented in our catalog, you can be sure of this.
Next, we move on to one of the main tools - these are brushes. From the very beginning it is worth starting experiments, so get a dozen brushes at once different sizes, types, forms and manufacturers. It may be more convenient for you to paint with an airbrush (sprayer) - if you have money, you can also purchase it. Don't forget to buy an airbrush compressor. If you are not afraid of expenses - purchase all materials in the maximum variety. A novice modeller, like no one else, should experiment and form his own style of assembly, priming, painting.
Getting to know the model
As soon as you brought the model home, get ready for one of the most pleasant moments and hurry to lay out all the details on the table in front of you. It is at this time that you can plunge headlong into the wonderful world of modeling and feel all its charm. Carefully consider all the details presented, understand how creative, complex and at the same time exciting the assembly process will be. It is very important that in the process of getting acquainted with the details you correctly assess the front of the upcoming work.
You are now completely ready to assemble your first model. Prepare the work surface, separate the parts from the sprues. Try to attach several parts to each other. Understand how difficult this process will be, feel its charm. Perhaps this is where it is worth finishing the first acquaintance with the model - put the parts in a box and put it aside. It's time to start professional training and create a full-fledged work surface and modeler's workplace.
We create a workplace
Building a good model requires proper preparation workplace. It is desirable to have, if not a separate office, then a separate desktop. You can re-equip the old workplace or desk. To do this, remove everything unnecessary from the surface and from the boxes, from now on you will only be engaged in assembling models. Believe me, you will have to store it in the table and on it, spend a lot of free time here, because it is extremely inconvenient to shift things and tools from place to place.
A special rug for modellers is spread on the table. If possible, give preference to A1 format material. We already lay out all the necessary tools on it. Remember that you are creating your own workplace, therefore you can independently determine their sequence, degree of significance and, in accordance with these parameters, place them on the table in any order. Next, we arrange paints, brushes and other materials-tools.
Getting ready to assemble
Preparing for the assembly in our case is the need to understand that many things that you thoughtlessly threw away before will surely be needed by you from now on. First of all, start collecting on an industrial scale all kinds of wires and their trimmings, pieces of plastic, sticks, glass jars and even caps from beer and vodka bottles. Do not be surprised - in the future it will be very convenient to use them to create a palette of colors.
At the same time, let me prepare you a little psychologically. The fact is that very soon you will acquire a truly exciting hobby that will take up the lion's share of your free time. At the same time, most friends and family, for objective reasons, will not quite understand your passion for creating models. Try not to conflict with them and pay enough attention to family and friends. Believe me, this hobby can be successfully combined with the opportunity to be a great son, friend, brother, husband, dad and colleague.
Purchasing an aftermarket
We suggest you sit down at the table again and study the features of the set you purchased. Look carefully at the instructions and at the details laid out in front of you. You may well find, and most certainly will, that many of them are either inaccurate, not detailed enough, or simply missing from the set. That is why we suggest purchasing an additional detailing kit (cockpit, photo-etched) in advance.
Working with aftermaket
Take a close look at the photo-etch kit you purchased and decide which parts you will need to fabricate yourself. We will not delve into the assembly process - there is an instruction for this, moreover, the features of creating each new model are individual. Instead, let's note a few key nuances of the work that a beginner should definitely take into account and which a professional should not forget about. We include the following points:
- Careful attitude to instructions. Following it is the key to successful assembly of the model;
- Multiple check. Before work, look at how the details fit on the drawings. If there are deficiencies, it is recommended to correct them immediately;
- Remember the numbering. When cutting off parts from the sprue, especially small elements, try to remember their numbering for sure, so as not to get confused in the future;
- Detail the interior elements. Many modellers advise photographing the interior of a structure prior to its final assembly;
- Be careful with small details, it is almost impossible to find them on the floor - use boxes and drawers for storage;
- Don't be afraid to spend time fixing a detail with defects visible to you - it will be much more difficult to fix already assembled model;
- Do not be afraid of damage to the jointing during the grinding process., for example, primers - boldly polish the surface, achieving its ideal state;
- Experiment with tools: remember that many household items can be useful in modeling.
Remember also that the materials you use, paints, varnishes and enamels are completely safe for human health. The only thing to be wary of is paints with very pungent odors. These include, for example, nitro paints. They are recommended to be used only when the hood is running, and in rooms where small children have access, they are usually not used at all.
Model painting features
Painting a model is a creative and at the same time complex process from a technical point of view. We have already described it in one of the articles posted on our website, so we will only note the points unknown to you.
First of all, trust the manufacturers, but always check them. On various forums, you can find messages about the discrepancy between the colors indicated by the manufacturer and the real shades of technology. Therefore, do not be too lazy to check with the original and choose the color scheme yourself.
Secondly, pay special attention to the choice of coloring option - some of them are presented in the instructions, some you will have to search on the Internet yourself. Make a choice in favor of the most complex drawing - only in this case you will be able to win the first "respect" in the image of a modeler.
Thirdly, always use a primer (of course, if you do not work with nitro paints). It will help not only securely fasten the surface of the model and the layer paintwork material, but also smooth out roughness, numerous irregularities and other flaws.
Fourth, fix the parts to be painted on the holders and never touch them with your hands - one awkward movement and all the work will have to be done from the very beginning.
Conclusion
Don't be afraid to experiment. We have to repeat this over and over again. Modeling is a combination of creativity and scrupulous study of instructions. Only in the process of assembling models do you gain invaluable experience, which is reflected in your technique and allows you to shape it. individual style. Listen to the advice of experienced modellers, but always check them in practice - no one can be considered the ultimate truth. Be creative, learn from your mistakes and create real masterpieces. And we, for our part, are happy to help you with wonderful models and tools of the highest quality, presented in an incredibly wide range.
An interesting and great article about aircraft modeling, how to paint models correctly, what tools are needed and what needs to be considered when modeling aircraft.
The manufacture and collection of prefabricated aircraft models occupies a very special place among the numerous types of modern technical creativity. Assembling models from ready-made plastic parts requires patience, jewelry precision, accuracy, good knowledge of the history of technology and, along with other types of modeling, is considered a real art. But it was he who was most unlucky. For some reason, many people think that in order to assemble a model, the instructions included in the box are enough. And since in the hands after such work it turns out to be a one-color, smudged glue, dull model, then what kind of creativity is there! Meanwhile, the assembly is only part of the exciting work on the model of a particular historical machine. We still need to try to recreate her true appearance so that she is just like the real one ...
In this article we will try to teach you how to assemble models correctly.
aircraft from sets of finished parts and give several designs of models for self-production. Among them there are flying homemade products for recreation and entertainment.
Collect as accurately and reliably as possible
Imagine for a moment that you have been bought a bright, beautiful box, inside of which is a small miracle - parts made in exact scale, copies of a real aircraft. Of course, you immediately want to get to work. But no matter how great this desire, do not rush!
In order to assemble a copy model as accurately and reliably as possible, you will have to spend a lot of work, and most importantly, learn how to work correctly.
A typical technological scheme for manufacturing a prefabricated model of an aircraft according to the instructions enclosed in the box is shown in Figure 1. However, it is most often not possible to work according to it: not all kits have glue, the correct coloring of the model is far from always shown, not all kits include parts - decals with identification marks. There are no special paints for sale. That's why when working on a model, heed the tips below, they have been repeatedly tested in experience by a wide variety of modellers.
Rice. Fig. 1. Manufacturing technology of prefabricated models from polystyrene: a - painting of small details on sprues; b - cutting parts from the sprue frame; c - piercing a tube with glue; d, e - application of glue; e - tightening the glued knots and parts with an elastic band; g - installation of parts; h - gluing the propeller; and - application of decorative stripes (so-called "invasion stripes"); j - application of spotted camouflage; l - markings for wavy camouflage; m - translation of identification marks.
First of all, never glue the model “tightly” at once. Of course, your desire to quickly see your “brainchild” assembled is understandable, but by hurrying with gluing, you doom yourself to unnecessary trouble, and the model will never have quality look. Glue so that you can disassemble the model without damage or remove the necessary parts without damaging them.
Agree that it is not very convenient to paint the assembled chassis, rocket blocks, the cockpit with the pilot inside, etc. And nothing good will come of it. That is why, in order to paint a small detail, firstly, do not remove it from the sprue, and, secondly, use matches and plasticine to re-attach it, putting the part on them.
In some cases, in order not to stick the part on the painted place later, you can use another method. On the part to be painted, such as an outboard fuel tank, mark where the pylon will be glued. Then glue a small piece of polystyrene to this place, imitating a pylon. After the glue dries, paint the tank, which is very convenient to hold in your hands for this glued piece of polystyrene. Now break off a piece of polystyrene and glue it on the pylon itself, also pre-painted. In this case, the junction will be clean and tidy, and its strength will increase significantly.
In this way, you can paint a variety of details. If you paint parts without cutting them off the sprues, then protect the gluing points with melted paraffin, or even better with thick gouache: it does not leave greasy spots and washes off easily with water.
Only after painting small parts, you can start assembling the main elements of the model. It really does not present any special difficulties, but nevertheless a few words should be said about applying glue to polystyrene parts. From a soft polyethylene vial, glue can be squeezed out through a small hole, from a small glass vial - through a capillary tube. It is good to use a thin wire or a needle for this purpose, and for large surfaces to be glued, soft (squirrel) brushes No. 1, 2 and 4 (if the surface is especially large). It is possible to glue the parts only after they have been cleaned of flash, burrs and sprue residues.
If there is no glue in the kit, use commercially available toluene, mecol, "pear essence" (in small quantities for such an important matter in the school chemistry room), nitro paint thinner 647. Separate parts for greater strength can be added “weld” with an electric burner, setting it to the weakest heat.
When assembling, special attention is paid to maintaining the scale of the model and the quality of individual parts in terms of their proportionality. Most often, the racks and landing gear doors, the plumage of bombs and missiles, etc. do not meet this requirement. It is not difficult to shorten the racks, but for lengthening, you can take pieces of gating plastic and process them accordingly. Sometimes there are excessively thick landing gear doors. It is easy to get rid of this defect if you rub them sandpaper or files. This should be done with slow movements so that the plastic does not heat up.
Often, weapons on models of military equipment are shown very conditionally. This deficiency can be corrected with a metal bar or wire of the appropriate diameter. The tip of the rod must be heated and deepen the bed of a cannon or machine gun barrel, giving it a more believable look. You can also imitate the protruding barrels of cannons and machine guns by melting short wires into their stocks. Such a “refinement” of the model often increases its strength, since parts made of polystyrene often fall off when cleaning models. And to clean the models, even if they are protected from dust by caps or are in cabinets behind glass, sooner or later you still have to.
At the ends of the wings and on the fuselage (aircraft body), you can simulate flashing or marker lights or headlights. To do this, you need to make cutouts in the right places and insert “lights” carved from transparent, red or green organic glass into them.
Antennas are usually made from fishing line, but it is better to use a metal winding wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm for this purpose, which can be taken from an old small-sized relay. There is another way, shown in Figure 2 - drawing threads from polystyrene sprues. First, the sprue is heated over the flame of candle 1, then they try the degree of heating 2 and, spreading their arms to the sides 3, pull out the thread, keeping it away from the fire 4. True, this method is of little use for thin radio antennas, since the resulting threads are very fragile, but it the easiest and fastest. In addition, this way you can get quite thick rods, which can be very useful when working on models.
You should not make antennas from ordinary threads either: they very quickly become “shaggy” due to dust settling on them.
Often modellers do not put stretch marks on biplanes because of the apparent laboriousness of their implementation. It's actually quite simple. To stretch the stretch marks, you need to use a heated needle or awl to make through holes in the wings at their attachment points, and then stretch the extensions through them, which are best made from wire with a diameter of 0.1 mm. Sometimes they put stretch marks from threads previously impregnated with silver. After they are stretched, in the places of the broach, it is necessary to drop a drop of glue like "Moment-1", BF or another. After the glue dries, it is necessary to cut off the excess threads, then putty the places of the broach, process with fine sandpaper and varnish. If you do all this carefully, then after painting the broach places on the wings will be almost invisible.
Many purchased models have “underfilling”, uneven surfaces and other imperfections caused by the aging of the molds on which they are made. To correct these shortcomings, putty is required. It is almost never on sale, and therefore you have to make it yourself. To do this, finely chopped sprue from the model should be poured into a hermetically sealed glass jar and pour
acetone. In a day, the putty will be ready. It should be borne in mind that it dries for a long time and can dissolve the plastic of the model. Therefore, before use, it is worth checking the putty on the sprue of the model on which it will be applied. By the way, various simple details can be cast from putty in molds.
And here are some tips on how to "revive" the models. Models with open cockpits, bomb bays, movable rudders, etc. look very effective. It is easy to make hinged wings for carrier-based aircraft. The easiest way to do this is on those models in which the wings fold up. Helicopters and transport vehicles are interesting, for example, to make with figures of "paratroopers" at open doors. Models that simulate the operation of the engine look good. For example, ordinary light bulbs from a 2.5 V flashlight can be inserted into the nozzles of jet aircraft, and a Uranus-type battery (1.5 V) can be placed in the fuselage. The light bulb must be powered with reduced voltage so that the nozzles do not melt. In most models of piston aircraft, microelectric motors are freely placed. With their help, you can rotate the propeller. The shaft is metal and is connected to the electric motor using a flexible transmission, such as a rubber tube. In order to avoid its destruction, the shaft should be “passed” into the bow in a tube, for example, from the core of a ballpoint pen. Switches can be of various types. All these improvements are not very time-consuming, and almost everyone can do it.
From almost all models, with the help of small alterations, various modifications of the prototype aircraft and even new ones can be obtained. For example, from the H-60 Gypsy Mot model, you can make a whole series of Soviet A. Yakovlev airplanes - AIR-1, AIR-2, AIR-3, AIR-4. At the same time, new products are almost not inferior to factory ones.
Almost any model has hidden reserves, but in order to successfully find them, you need to familiarize yourself with the necessary drawings and descriptions of aircraft.
In the same way, not only prefabricated models of aircraft are assembled, but also tanks, ships, cars, models of space technology.
Paint clean and neat
The appearance of the prefabricated model depends to a large extent on the coloring. At the same time, for scales of 1:72, 1:100 or 1:144, coloring and finishing acquire a decisive role. There can be no trifles in this work, because maximum reliability is the main requirement for a copy model.
So, about the technology of coloring. Each experienced modeler has his own secrets and techniques for this work, but they are all variants of two main methods: painting with a brush and using an airbrush (spray). The first method is relatively simple and accessible to everyone, especially a beginner modeller. The second requires a source of compressed air, an airbrush and much more, which makes it somewhat difficult to distribute it.
When working with a brush, the question arises which paints are suitable for applying to polystyrene, from which aircraft parts are cast. Just not nitro enamels! Nothing good will come of it - the nitro base corrodes the plastic, the paint dries quickly, stretches, the surface turns out to be rough and uneven. For painting with a brush, you need to use alkyd enamels. They have excellent hiding power, give a thin even layer and a shiny surface. Their drying time is 6-12 hours, depending on the temperature and thickness of the coating. You must have five primary colors: red, blue, yellow, white and black. With their help, you can get the most various colors, as well as any shades. If you managed to find only white alkyd enamel, do not worry - you can use artistic colors as dyes. oil paints that are sold in stationery stores.
You can use these oil paints as the main ones - on thinner No. 2 (white spirit or turpentine). After drying, the surface painted by them becomes deeply matte, which is especially important for models-copies of aircraft from the period of the 2nd World War. Art paints dry for one or two days - this is their only drawback.
It is not necessary to specially prepare the surface of the model for painting with brushes, it is enough to wash it in warm water with a toothbrush and soap. By the way, about the brushes: you need one or two round No. 1-3 for painting parts and two or three flat ones No. 5-9. The size of the brushes depends on the size of the model - the larger the model, the larger brushes should be taken. Brushes should be semi-rigid, hairy (better from a column, sable or badger). Bristle ones are not suitable for such fine work. The sequence of applying the paint layer is from lighter to darker.
The airbrush gives rich opportunities for painting models. Of course, working with it is much more difficult than with a brush, but it turns out perfectly. smooth surface, matte or shiny. In addition, the use of an airbrush allows you to transfer Various types protective coloring (camouflage), imitate traces of operation, repair, the influence of atmospheric phenomena, etc.
Compressor is the most commonly used source of compressed air. household refrigerator although it needs to be improved. First of all, remove the nichrome coil from the launch box, replacing it with a piece copper wire(all this, of course, can only be done on a compressor from a refrigerator that has become unusable, after consulting with the parents and with their assistance!). The spiral may not be replaced, but in this case the compressor may stop at the most inopportune moment. It should be remembered that the unit from the refrigerator is not designed for long work, so don't let it idle.
Often, small droplets of oil fly out of the compressor outlet pipe along with air; their contact with the surface to be painted is highly undesirable. Therefore, an oil filter or a sump should be installed at the outlet, which will also play the role of a receiver - a storage device that smooths out the jerky air flow. It can be done from the camera soccer ball. From a rubber hose with a length of at least 2 m, tightly put on the airbrush fitting, cut off a piece about 0.5 m in size. Put one end of it on the compressor outlet pipe and seal it with a clamp and electrical tape. Insert the other end into the chamber along with the end of the long piece of hose and also seal the connection. Strive to achieve complete tightness to avoid air pressure drops.
But what about those who did not manage to get either an airbrush or a compressor? This is where a regular sprayer can come in handy. Such a sprayer will also help with painting the model, however, unfortunately, it is possible to use a standard device only 1-2 times, after which it is completely clogged with paint.
Simple improvements will help turn it into a reliable "spray gun". To do this, you need to change the bending radii of the outer and inner tubes and shorten the outer shank, as shown in Figure 3, a. The purpose of this upgrade is to enable the development and assembly of the instrument. The thin inner tube should easily slide out of the outer tube. This will allow you to wash the parts of the spray gun in a solvent after staining.
A little about the methods of using such a sprayer. First of all, it is necessary, by changing the position of the nozzle, to achieve a fine dispersion of the torch. In this case, the length of the latter should be about 0.4 m. Before work, the paint must be filtered. You should always have a bottle of thinner for nitro paints on hand. As soon as the coloring "cloud" becomes inhomogeneous and clots of paint begin to fly from the nozzle, the bottle of paint must be replaced with a bottle of solvent. A few “pumps” with a rubber bulb - and the device is ready for work again.
When finished painting, do not forget to clean up after yourself and thoroughly rinse all parts with a solvent.
A pretty decent airbrush sprayer can also be made on the basis of a microcompressor for supplying air to the aquarium and two empty rods from ballpoint pen(Fig. 3b). Remove the balls from the rods, being careful not to deform them with tips, and connect them at right angles to each other using an appropriate device (for example, a tin clip). Then, on one rod, you need to put on a hose from the compressor, and lower the other into a jar of paint. The airbrush is ready to go. The paint supply can be adjusted both by changing the position of the rods and by adjusting the screw on the compressor.
It may happen that you have a real industrial airbrush at your disposal, but without a compressor. An ordinary household siphon for the preparation of carbonated water can be recommended as a pressure source (Fig. 3, c). At the same time, it is not necessary to fill the container with water, but sequentially charge two cartridges with carbon dioxide at once. Connect the “nose” of the siphon to the airbrush with a rubber hose. One such charge is enough for a long time.
But the last recommendation will no doubt be appreciated by those of you who have already taken part in exhibitions and competitions in poster modeling. The fact is that bench models require. treat themselves with a very “delicate” attitude and, it happens, receive unwanted damage during transportation. But if the broken part is easy to glue (there would be glue!), Then it is very difficult to carry an airbrush, compressor or even just a spray gun with you just to tint the peeling paint in some places. Of course, this can also be done with a brush, but on a surface “blown out” by sprayers, such repairs can be immediately noticeable and only worsen the appearance of the model.
“Repair in the field” becomes quite possible if you use the simplest pocket plastic inhaler, which can be converted into an atomizer in a matter of minutes (Fig. 4). Pass a thin tube or donor needle 3 through the lid of the jar, and make a hole in the lid or insert a piece of tube 4 to let the air out. - under glue for prefabricated models and you can get to work.
It should be noted that nitro enamels are most suitable for painting models using all these devices. Before applying them, the surface of the model must be primed using a composition consisting of four parts of acetone and one part of the GF-21 glyptal primer. The components are shaken, after which they must be allowed to settle in a tightly sealed container. The resulting transparent liquid of a pinkish color is applied to the model with an airbrush immediately before painting - thanks to this, the nitro paint is "welded" to the plastic.
Before painting, nitro enamel must be diluted with acetone or solvents (646; 647): the paint must be liquid, but not “transparent”. When working with an airbrush, observe the following rules: press the paint supply key while directing the airbrush away from the model, otherwise the first large splashes-blots may fall on the surface. Hold the airbrush at a distance of 15-20 cm depending on the diameter of the nozzle and what parts are being painted. The hand with the airbrush must be in motion all the time, otherwise streaks may form on the surface. Remember that the time for complete drying of nitro enamels is 1 hour, so each layer must dry properly.
And now a few words about how to solve the problem with silver-like paint, which is indispensable in the manufacture of copy models.
Some plastic model aircraft kits come with excellent silver-look paint. But the trouble is - even if you are lucky enough to purchase such a model, you just have to open the bottle, after a short time the composition thickens and becomes unusable. And this paint is not always enough, while replacing it with other compounds gives, to put it mildly, unsatisfactory results.
But it turns out that even on the basis of available pigments, you can make an excellent paint yourself. To do this, in addition to aluminum powder from the usual kit available for sale in hardware stores, you will need fir varnish (it can be purchased at specialized art stores) and solvent 646. The mixture is prepared in a cylindrical glass vial (for example, from under penicillin), into which two volumetric parts of the pigment, and with the help of a pipette pour in one part of the fir varnish and two more of the solvent. The resulting mass is shaken. To lift the pigment settling during storage from the bottom, it is useful to place one or two balls from a bicycle bearing in a vial.
Homemade paint dries 20 ... 25 minutes and appearance practically does not differ after drying from the “standard” paint.
But some modelers prepare this paint from a small amount (20 ... 500 mg) aluminum paste(not powder!) and solvent 646. Nitrolac is added to the mixture. You can paint with a brush or airbrush. Before spraying, it is recommended to paint the model in White color.
To remove paint from already painted bench models, a concentrated solution of caustic soda (caustic soda) will help, in which the model is immersed for 1-2 days. Before removing the paint, it is necessary to peel off the cockpit lantern, as transparent polystyrene becomes cloudy in this solution. The easiest way to apply clear borders of colors to the model is to “mask” it with wet newsprint or paint individual parts of the model (for example, the upper and lower surfaces of the wings) before they are joined. Self-adhesive adhesive tape such as "scotch tape" has too strong an adhesive ability and often peels off along with the paint, so when using it, its surface should be powdered with talcum powder or tooth powder.
If you want to reproduce blurry camouflage, a mask cut out of thick paper or transparent film is held a few millimeters from the surface of the model, carefully spraying the paint. This technique is quite simple, however, in order not to spoil the model, you need to practice first - “fill your hand” on unnecessary pieces of polystyrene or paper. But with a known skill, camouflage spots can be applied without a mask.
After the model is painted, let it dry properly before transferring the decals onto it. If you need to get a matte surface, blow out the model with liquid diluted nitro-varnish from a long distance, having previously covered transparent parts with masks - lanterns, headlights, etc. For the same purpose, you can use a colorless matte varnish or paint with nitro-paint with tooth powder added to it.
Naturally, when painting a model, a lot will depend on the design of the prototype aircraft itself and the materials from which it was made.
That's how they were, that's how they are
In order for the model-copy of the aircraft you assemble to be really of high quality, it must be as reliable as possible. And for this it is necessary to have a good understanding of the history of the development of aviation, to have an idea about the technology of aviation production, the features of the use of winged equipment, its operation in different conditions. Without this, all the work can go to waste. Therefore, here we will try to briefly acquaint you with what certain aircraft were made of, which ones bore identification marks and emblems. All this will help you in your work.
When assembling aircraft models of the period, the First World War, you should take into account that the bodies of most of them were made of wood and sheathed with aircraft plywood or canvas impregnated with nitro-lacquer and therefore had a yellowish tint. The structure of the canvas, which covered the aircraft, was indistinguishable even on a real machine (after all, the surface aircraft carefully painted and polished), so you should not try to reproduce it on the model. The biplane model should be painted before final assembly, and then scrape off the paint at the joints, because the glue will not work. strong connection on paintwork.
When painting, consider the features of camouflage different countries. During civil war Red Army pilots flew both aircraft captured in battles and those produced at domestic factories. The most common fighter planes were Spad and Nieuport, which were painted silver in the Russian and later in the Red Army. It is known that these machines were heavily worn out, and their repair was carried out in the field, so when painting parts that imitate linen and plywood parts, a little matte white or light gray should be added to aluminum paint. This will give the effect of a faded surface.
English-made aircraft captured from the interventionists and the Whites were usually not repainted, and new identification marks were applied by hand directly onto the blue-white-red English cockades. If desired, you can imitate patches on damaged parts of the fuselage or wing by painting them in the main color of a lighter shade. Usually the patches were in the form of a circle or a quadrangle.
On the aircraft of the period of the First World War, with multi-color camouflage, the border of colors was clearly expressed.
On the aircraft of Kaiser Germany, the fabric covering of the wings and fuselage looked like multicolored polygons of regular geometric shape. It is interesting that the fabric was delivered to aircraft factories already being dyed at a weaving factory. But on the model, this type of camouflage is best imitated with a brush, although this work requires a certain skill. The painting of aircraft of this period was usually semi-matte, although the machines that had just come off the assembly line had a perfectly shiny surface, during operation they quickly lost their appearance.
When finishing and fine-tuning the model of the First World War, you need to remember the following trifles: wooden propellers were carefully polished, so when painting the propeller of the model, you need to imitate the texture of wood and its color. If the model is large enough, then the screw can be made from wood or plywood and not painted. The metal pad on the screw hub is a dull gray color. The crankcase and engine cylinders are painted to look like dull metal. To do this, you can add dark gray or brown or both in various proportions to silver paint. Cylinder pushers should be made in a bright silver color, and exhaust pipes should be made to match the rust color that they acquired during long-term operation. Machine guns should be covered with dark gray paint and in some places “aged” with strokes to look like dull metal.
The tires on the wheels of veteran aircraft had a pronounced gray tint, so before painting the wheels of the landing gear, it is necessary to add a fair amount of white to the matte black paint, or mix tooth powder into the shiny black paint. To imitate dirt streaks on the wheels, add white to dark brown paint, mix thoroughly and gently apply with a brush in the desired place. The main thing is not to put too much paint. Exhaust smoky streaks are best applied with an airbrush, and the color of the exhaust contaminants on the fuselage can be a dark gray or taupe. This work requires accuracy and thoroughness; in its implementation, one should be guided by the rule “better less than more”.
During the Second World War, they used different kinds camouflage coloring, which can be conditionally divided into three groups: "chopped" - camouflage with a sharp, geometrically broken border of colors; "wavy" - when there is a wavy border of colors; "spotted" - when different color spots are applied to the wings and fuselage of the aircraft. The border between colors could be blurry or clear. For replica models made on a large scale, this is a secondary issue, since in this case the border of colors will look clear in any case, but a scale of 1:24 or 1:32 allows you to simulate the “blurring” of camouflage color borders.
Of great importance is the question of the degree of gloss of the paintwork applied to the model. Both too shiny and too matte coloring of the model make it unreliable. Unlike cars, the aircraft of that time, with rare exceptions, did not have a polished surface, but, on the other hand, one should not forget about the scale effect. A 1:72 scale model from 0.25 m looks (or should look) the same as a real aircraft from a distance of about 18 m. And at this distance, even matte paint acquires some sheen for the observer. Therefore, the most reliable is such a degree of brilliance, which has received the apt name "eggshell". This smooth, semi-matte finish, reminiscent of the shell of a fresh chicken egg in brilliance, produces the most beneficial effect. new impression.
It should be noted that the exact shade of one color or another, in which the aircraft were painted, is now precisely and cannot be indicated even for those countries where the most stringent instructions existed on this matter. sun, rain, dew, repair work, the inevitable aging of the paint, and even just not mixing it well enough before use, caused the most bizarre changes in the color of the aircraft.
When painting models, you need to know that before the war, most Soviet Air Force aircraft were painted in light gray and silver. Then the main color was dark green with a slight brown tint on the upper and side surfaces. The lower planes were usually blue color. At the beginning of 1941, an instruction was adopted for the camouflage painting of aircraft. They were repainted in the field, due to which the lower surfaces sometimes remained the original light gray color, and large round spots of brown or black were applied to the main green background. Sometimes spots of the original color remained on the upper planes, which created a three-color camouflage pattern that was very rare for Soviet aviation.
In the color of Soviet aircraft of the Great Patriotic War two stages can be clearly distinguished. The first (initial) was characterized by a wide variety of coloring schemes, which was due both to the lack of sufficient experience in this area and to the surprise attack of Nazi Germany. At first, all the new planes of Yakovlev, Lavochkin and Mikoyan, the production of which was mastered even before the war, were produced in the old protective coloring. From the second half of 1941, all aircraft that left the assembly shops of aircraft factories received camouflage in the form of large spots of brown and green. Moreover, the brown paint had green tint, and green, on the contrary, is brown. Such a scheme was used for both day and night aircraft on almost all fronts. On most aircraft, the bottom surfaces were painted blue.
In the first military winter of 1941-1942. the aircraft had winter camouflage in white-gray or white. The lower surfaces remained blue. It is interesting that in the spring of 1942, as a result of the impact of weather conditions, the so-called "spring" camouflage appeared on the aircraft, when the original colors began to show through the white paint.
While aircraft operating normally during the day had blue undersurfaces (light gray was only used on some multi-engine aircraft), nighttime aircraft had black undersurfaces. These were mainly bombers, transport and communications aircraft flying behind enemy lines, such as Li-2, Po-2, etc. Sometimes these aircraft were painted on top and sides with a special matte dark blue-green paint. Some aircraft were entirely black.
Other paint schemes were also used for painting Soviet aircraft. For example: grassy green and black for areas with rich vegetation; sandy and brown colors - for the southern sectors of the front; small spots Brown on a green background - mainly in the south of Ukraine and the Caucasus in 1942-1943.
On some machines (usually multi-engine) even a tricolor camouflage was used, where patches of gray, green and brown-green colors (Li-2) or light green, ocher and black-green colors (Yak-6) were combined.
In the second half of the war, that is, from the middle of 1943, the color of Soviet aircraft changed radically. It became more standard and was a combination of two shades of gray - darker and lighter, and at the very end of the war, the aircraft had a solid gray-green color. This applies primarily to such machines as La-5fn, Yak-9, Yak-3, La-7, Tu-2, etc.
Among the aircraft of the Soviet Air Force, one cannot ignore and enough large group cars, the color of which differed from the standard for completely different reasons. We are talking about aviation equipment supplied to us by the allies under Lend-Lease (military aid), as a rule, in its original form. So, British-made aircraft had spots of dark green and dark earth (brown) colors, and later - combinations of gray-green and dark gray "marine" colors. The undersides of these machines were either duck-egg or light grey. US aircraft were solid olive (dirty green with a brown tint) color on top and light gray on the bottom. Only gradually these cars were repainted according to Soviet standards. The use of radar equipment and the creation of a fundamentally new jet technology set fundamentally new tasks for military specialists in camouflaging combat aircraft. That is why in the USA, Great Britain, Germany and some other countries engineers, doctors, psychologists, artists are widely involved in this work today, the most modern technology is used.
In the first post-war years, most jet aircraft, especially our Soviet ones, were not painted at all and had a silver-gray color, which was gradually replaced by camouflage. Aircraft such as Tu-16, Tu-20 and Tu-22 remained silver.
An interesting direction in aircraft camouflage was the so-called back-shadow coloring scheme developed in the USA in the early 70s, used on interceptor fighters. Its action is to equalize natural light with different shades of gray. separate parts aircraft: those areas that usually look lighter are covered with darker paint, and vice versa.
In the late 70s, such a camouflage scheme was tested in the RAF. In 1979, the color scheme with a back-shadow effect (three shades of gray) was adopted for the Phantom-2 air defense fighters, and a little later - for the Lightning and Tornado fighters, and the Hawk light combat training aircraft. Simultaneously with the introduction of a new camouflage coloration, the size of the identification marks was reduced, and instead of bright blue and red, their pastel shades were used. The brightness of various stencil inscriptions was also muted. Although the identification marks and emblems of the squadrons have been temporarily preserved, in case of emergency, they will be painted over, according to the foreign press.
During the Anglo-Argentine armed conflict over the Falkland (Malvinas) Islands, the aviation of the British Navy also came to grips with the issue of aircraft camouflage. The Sea Harrier carrier-based fighters, which had a gray-white color traditional for naval aviation before being sent to the South Atlantic (and, according to British experts, the white paint on the lower surfaces of the aircraft had too high reflectivity), became monotonous gray. The white ring was removed from the identification marks. In addition, squadron emblems were painted over, bright inscriptions and designations were removed.
The German Air Force has developed its own camouflage scheme, which uses gray and green colors, as well as broken lines, which resembles the coloring of the planes of Nazi Germany.
Work on the creation of new effective camouflage schemes for aircraft is being carried out in various directions. Sometimes they take the most original forms. So, in Canada, an experiment was conducted, during which a mirror image of its upper part (cockpit canopy, keel and other elements) was applied on the lower part of the fuselage of the CF-18 fighter. According to experts, this camouflage method turned out to be very effective, since during the training battles, the pilots of the “enemy” aircraft experienced serious difficulties in determining the spatial position of the CF-18 aircraft painted in this way and, of course, the intentions of their crews. However, Canadian Air Force specialists have so far refrained from further dissemination of this experience in order to "ensure flight safety in peacetime."
The most suitable camouflage scheme for European conditions is the alternation of dark green and dark gray spots with zigzag edges. This is how Buccaneer light bombers, Jaguar fighters and some other aircraft are painted. Phantom fighters are camouflaged with lighter colors: light green and dark gray spots on top, and light gray and white with a blue tint on the bottom.
Nimrod base patrol planes and Lightning fighter-interceptors, operating mainly over the sea, are painted so that they are not visible from above against the background of the sea surface, and from below - against the background of clouds.
On the contrary, training vehicles should be bright so that they can be seen from afar. However, some of them, on which combat use issues are being worked out, have the same camouflage as combat aircraft.
The camouflage coloring of helicopters is similar to the coloring of aircraft intended for operations against ground targets from low and extremely low altitudes. However, search and rescue helicopters are usually painted bright yellow.
Certain types of aircraft can be painted in other (non-standard) colors. For example, they were painted white with black spots and stripes, so that they did not stand out against the background of the earth's surface covered with snow and stones, the Harrier vertical takeoff and landing aircraft that participated in flights over Norway.
It is extremely important for modellers-collectors to be able to correctly paint identification marks, especially if they could not get a factory-made decal. Here, the already mentioned stencil masks with a cut-out image should come to the rescue.
When finishing a model, it is important not only to know the history well, but also to observe the measure, the scale of identification marks, digital designations, “scratches” and “chips”. Otherwise, "metal" may appear where there was actually wood or fabric, and identification marks can make even the most beautiful model unnatural. And, of course, a copy of a prototype aircraft cannot look like a car that has been in dozens of air battles, just as an ace car should not look like it has just left the assembly shop. That is why painstaking, but very interesting and useful work is required to study the history of aviation, search for photographs and color images of copied aircraft, which will help to complement the coloring of the model with the necessary nuances.
Good day, dear users of my resource!
With you again Dmitry Ignatychev - your guide in the world of large-scale modeling.
Often the life of a beginner modeler is full of surprises. As well as many seemingly unsolvable questions. Questions, questions, questions… What and how to do, how to cut sprues, how to glue, how and with what to paint…
All this is not easy to understand. Especially if there are no modellers among your friends, there are no large-scale modeling clubs in your city, and there is very little time to search and study literature. Taking into account the fact that there is very little valuable information, and the Internet is filled with disparate arguments on various forums, it becomes generally tight :)) But ... dear friends, don’t try to quit what you started. The matter must always be brought to a natural finale - to result .
Well, I, in turn, will help you understand the science of scale modeling. And your new material I dedicate myself to solving such a problem as choosing a set of tools sufficient to create my first (s) models. We will figure out what you need and need to have in your arsenal for initial stage gaining the skill of a modeler, and what will be completely unnecessary.
In general, the arsenal of the master of modeling is very extensive. And it can take up a lot of space. From a small closet in a private room to a whole workshop in a private house or garage. Such instrumentation is similar to the workshops of great violin makers such as Amati and Stradivari. Such things are perfectly displayed in the brilliant Soviet film "Visit to the Minotaur". And like any significant business, such a number of tools are collected and acquired for a long time. Sometimes measured in decades. But this is all the lot of true MASTERS who are in love with their work. Matter of LIFE.
But you, my dear reader, if you are at the very beginning of this path, so many tools are not required at all. Especially if you are not at all sure that you will be doing this for a long time.
Therefore, I suggest that you familiarize yourself with the list of beginner modeller's tools I have prepared.
TOOLS FOR THE BEGINNER MODELIST
MODELING KNIFE
A model knife is arguably the most important tool in your arsenal. Simply because it all starts with him. With a knife you will separate the parts from the sprue. Cut off the cover. Clean up various kinds of defects. Now on sale there is an extensive range of knives, differing in length and thickness of the handle. Modern model knives have a collet for the blade. These blades can be interchanged quickly and easily. The fact is that interchangeable blades are designed to perform highly specialized tasks, to perform various kinds of work.
You can purchase both the knife separately and the whole set, consisting of the knife itself and a set of interchangeable blades. Everything is up to you. For starters, you can purchase a simple knife without interchangeable blades. If there are knives from different manufacturers on sale, ask to hold the knife in your hands. The tool should lie well in the hand, she likes it.
TWEEZERS
Here is another tool without which the work of the modeler will be extremely difficult. This is tweezers. It is necessary when working with small and very small details. Only with the help of tweezers will you be able to install, paste tiny parts into the limited spaces of aircraft cabins, landing gear niches and others.
Tweezers are a modeler's friend
Tweezers are one of the most common modeling tools that can be purchased not only in model stores, but also in pharmacies and electronics stores. You can also purchase watchmaker's tweezers. It has thinner "sponges", which allows you to work with high precision with small details.
SANDPAPER
After separation from the sprue, all parts of the model must be cleaned from various kinds of defects. It can be all sorts of irregularities, flash. After gluing different parts also need to clean the junction. Of course, manufacturers are constantly improving the quality of their kits. But one way or another, sandpaper will be required for a very long time in the work of a modeler.
You can purchase sandpaper at any hardware or automotive store. Also, various kinds of nail files, needle files are useful in the work. Needle files you can use for grinding metal, resin and not just plastic parts. main feature needle file is its durability. It will last you much longer than any sandpaper or nail file.
But still, at the initial stage of work, sandpaper will do.
MODEL CUTTERS
Removing parts from the sprue with a beginner's model knife can be a tedious and in some cases dangerous task. The knife does a great job skillful hands, and others can spoil a lot. Therefore, at the beginning of your career, it is advisable to use model cutters to separate parts.
At the moment, almost every manufacturer of tools and scale models has model cutters in their assortment. They do an excellent job with their tasks, leaving behind smooth, clean edges and joints. It is advisable to purchase a high-quality and not cheap tool.
WORKING SURFACE
All your work on the model will be related to cutting, sawing, cutting out. It will be necessary to process parts made of plastic and other materials without fear of spoiling the surface of the desktop. After all, you will create a model not in a specialized room, but on your everyday desktop. Therefore, it is desirable to prepare a special work surface. It can be either a piece of ordinary chipboard or a specialized self-healing rug.
Cutting board - the first assistant to the cook
It doesn't take up much space when folded. Lined with a graphic grid. Perfectly protects the surface of the table from cuts and tool jumps.
MODEL GLUE
Often glue is not included with the model. It can only be found in some gift sets and editions. Therefore, it must be purchased separately. Supplied in different packaging options. Either in glass jars or in plastic bottles with a needle. There are 3 types of model adhesives that differ from each other in the principle of action.
I'll glue everything - I'll tie everything
The choice of adhesive to use depends on personal preference and the specific job task. For example, I mainly use glue, which dissolves the edges of the surfaces to be joined. And then creating an integral connection from this.
So we got our very modest in size and cost TOOLKIT FOR A BEGINNER MODELIST. Something like NAZ - Necessary Emergency Supply. As you progress in mastering the mastery of scale modeling, you will become more aware of the essence of the work being done. And start expanding your tool arsenal. But it's still ahead...
In the meantime... DON'T PUT OFF, start building your first model. And all your questions will find a practical application. And you yourself will begin to answer them. And if you don't know, ask. Write in the comments, or to my mail - in the CONTACTS section.
P.S. Don't forget to like the article. After all, if she helped you, she will help another novice modeller. Good luck. And ... beautiful models for you.
Gluing various models is one of the types of collectibles. What distinguishes him from the rest is getting pleasure more from creating the model itself than from the fact of acquiring it. A person who at least once tried to glue a model of an aircraft with his own hands will no longer be able to refuse it.
Since ancient times, people have dreamed of conquering the heavens. The idea of creating a perfect aircraft occupied the minds of many eminent scientists and philosophers. To this day, aircraft designers are improving technology and honing their skills every year.
But what should mere mortals do, for whom piloting an aircraft is just a pipe dream? The answer is simple - design. Moreover, today it does not require much effort. You just need to visit our online store selling aircraft models or order your favorite model for gluing or assembling an aircraft in the online store without leaving your home.
In both options, you will get the widest choice of models that are different in scale, type, and complexity of assembling.
In addition, you can purchase ready-made radio-controlled models.
Today, in the age of the Internet, people involved in aeromodelling can communicate with each other on forums, share drawings and literature, and organize competitions.
For many of them, modeling has become the embodiment of a childhood dream of heaven. And for some, just a pleasant pastime.
In today's article, we will consider the sequence and the main secrets of high-quality assembly of plastic models using the example of aircraft and helicopters manufactured by Zvezda.
Where to start building a model?
First of all, you should decide on the subject of future exhibits, it can be both civilian and military types. Here the choice depends on your preferences. Another criterion for choosing a model is its scale. Beginning modellers should choose kits with few parts and a single color scheme.
You should also have essential tool. Here is a rough list of required equipment:
- Model knife set.
- Tweezers.
- model rug.
- Glue.
- Special model tape or adhesive tape.
- wire cutters.
- Sandpaper or file.
- putty.
- Brushes, airbrush.
- Paints.
Having collected the necessary tool, you can proceed to the assembly of the selected models.
Collection of models, on the example of aircraft and helicopters of the company "Zvezda"
At the very beginning, you should prepare the workplace where you will work. To do this, you need a table, preferably with a large surface, which must be covered with a model rug to avoid damaging the table surface. On the table should be only those items that are useful for assembling the model. The room in which you will work should also have good, bright lighting. Then you need to inspect the purchased kits, study the instructions, make sure that there are no missing parts, and also for the absence of defects on them.
So, let's move on to the sequence of assembling models.
1. At the beginning, we separate the parts from the sprue. Then we clean the remaining irregularities when disconnecting. Do not separate all the details at once, as in the future you may get confused about what to what and where to attach which part.
To begin with, we separate the parts of the fuselage and attach the halves to each other, but do not glue them, but make sure that they fit each other clearly. If one of the parts has defects, it should be adjusted with sandpaper or a needle file. Sandpaper should be waterproof, as in the process it will have to be washed frequently in order to get rid of plastic chips.
2. Before gluing the parts together, connect them with a modeling tape or adhesive tape, this will facilitate the gluing process.
After gluing the top layer of the case, let it dry, and then proceed to gluing the bottom one.
Get a special superfluid, quick-drying glue.
Before gluing the fuselage, the windows and cockpit should be glued. For transparent parts, use a special adhesive with a transparent base. You should also place a small weight in the nose of your model, this is necessary so that later your exhibit does not fall on the tail. Plasticine can be used as a load.
When assembling a helicopter model, you should assemble the cockpit and engine, then cover everything with primer and paint. After complete drying, place it between the halves of the fuselage.
After all the above manipulations, you can start gluing the body halves. Next, glue the rest of the parts to the assembled model. If you have a model aircraft, we glue the wings, tail, turbines, landing gear, etc. If you have a helicopter model, then we glue the lights, antennas, landing gear, install the blades, etc.
For the convenience of applying glue, use brushes. When gluing small parts, use tweezers.
After all the parts are glued, we leave the model to dry for about a day.
3. Our model is dry, now we can proceed to the next step - grinding. All joints where gluing took place should be sanded.
4. If the model turned out with slight irregularities, then its surface should be covered with a layer of putty and after drying, walk again sandpaper. Putty dries throughout the day.
Before applying putty, cover all places where it should not go. You can do this with masking tape.
The primer is applied from an aerosol can at a distance of 20 - 30 cm from the surface of the model. After this procedure, we also leave our model to dry for a day.
6. After grinding, applying putty and primer, we proceed to the staining process. For your first model, choose a single color paint scheme. Because without proper experience it is quite difficult to paint a two- or three-color model, and even more so a camouflage.
Paint small details without cutting them out of sprues, this is done to simplify the process.
You can paint the model with brushes, a can of paint, or use an airbrush with a compressor.
The painted model should dry within two days.
7. After the paint is completely dry, apply the decals that came with the kit to the surface of the model.
In fact, decals are transfer pictures. It is easy to apply a decal to the surface - cut out the desired picture, lower it into warm water for 15 - 30 seconds, and then apply to the desired place on the surface and lightly press with a napkin, thereby removing the excess layer of water.
After we cover the surface with a layer of varnish and again let the model dry.
Perhaps these are the main stages in the assembly of plastic models of aircraft and helicopters. Either way, build quality comes with experience. So don't put it off, get your first model quickly, and it may not be the only one, and immerse yourself in the wonderful world of modeling!
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