Build a do-it-yourself glider model drawings. What is a glider? How to make a glider with your own hands: drawings, photos

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SCHEMATIC MODELS OF THE AIRPLANE AND Glider

Soviet aircraft modelers built hundreds of the most interesting models of aircraft and gliders, from schematic to jet and radio-controlled.

The schematic model is the first step into "small aircraft". Schematic models of this class are called because they basically reproduce only the scheme of a real aircraft or glider. Such a model aircraft, equipped with a rubber motor, can fly a distance of at least 75 meters. A well-made glider model stays in the air for up to an hour.

The design of the described glider and aircraft models is so simple that it can be built in a school aircraft modeling circle, in a pioneer camp or at home. The main details of the model: wings, stabilizers, keels and others are made from ordinary pine planks. The pine going to these parts must meet the most elementary requirements - to be straight-grained, without knots, dry and not resinous.

To build models, it is enough to have: a planer, penknife, pliers, round nose pliers, a file and scissors.

SCHEMATIC MODEL OF THE Glider

Working drawings of the airframe model are given on sheet No. 1.

The main dimensions of the model:

wingspan - 940 mm,
model length - 1000 mm,
flight weight - 150 g.

The model, like a real glider, does not have a motor. She makes a flight, supported by oncoming air currents.

SCHEMATIC MODEL OF THE AIRCRAFT

Sheet No. 2 shows the complete working drawings of the model.

The dimensions of all parts and details are given in actual size.

The main dimensions of the model:

wingspan - 680 mm,
model length - 900 mm,
flight weight - 75 g,
screw size 240 mm.

A rubber motor is used as the engine. The propeller installation consists of a propeller with an axle mounted in a bearing and a rubber bundle. The rubber bundle is made of six threads of rubber with a section of 1 X 4 mm.

Before proceeding with the construction, carefully read the working drawings of the model and the text. Prepare the necessary material and tools.

HOW TO USE THE DRAWINGS.

Our drawings are working, and all the details on them are drawn in full size. Therefore, in order to set the size of a particular part, it can be superimposed directly on the drawing.

PROCEDURE FOR MANUFACTURING PARTS OF THE MODEL.

When building models, you should go from simpler parts to more complex ones. First, cut out the rail, then make the keel, followed by the stabilizer, and then proceed to the manufacture of the wing.

HOW TO BEND PINE EDGES.

To make roundings of the wing, stabilizer and keel from pine planks, make a blank, and to bend the ribs (wing cross bars) - a template. The method will be as follows: planochki planed according to the drawing are steamed in boiling water for 5-10 minutes, and then bent on a blank, their ends are tied and left in this position until completely dry. The ribs are bent on a special template (see drawing) and fixed on it with a tin bracket until dry.

JOINTING ROUNDINGS WITH EDGES.

To splice the curves of the wing, stabilizer, keel with the corresponding edges, cut their ends obliquely so that when they overlap each other, they do not exceed the section of the edge. Lubricate the splices of the rounded edges with glue and tie tightly with a thread.

HOW TO PAPER WING AND TAIL.

Before pasting, the model is assembled and its parts are verified. After the distortions of the stabilizer wing and keel are eliminated, they are covered with tissue paper. Wings and stabilizer on the top side, keel on both sides. Tighten the wing with two people. Holding the paper by the corners, place it over the glued wing and smooth it over the ribs and edges. The paper is glued first on one half of the wing to the central rib, and then on the second part. Make sure that wrinkles do not form during tightening. After the glue dries, cut off the excess paper with a knife or fine glass skin. Sprinkle the covered wing and tail unit with mist.

ADJUSTMENT AND STARTING MODELS.

Before launching a model glider or aircraft, it must be adjusted. To do this, take the model behind the wing by the fuselage rail and, pointing slightly down, release it from your hand by slightly pushing it forward. The model should fly 10-12 meters. If the model lifts its nose up, move the wing back a little; if the model is too steep to land, move the wing forward. When flying the model with a list to the right or to the left wing, align the keel or straighten the wing as it is warped. If the model turns to the right or left during flight, adjust the keel turns.

Making a radio-controlled glider from the ceiling with your own hands is very simple!

In fact, for manufacturing, you only need to download the model aircraft drawings located at the end of the article, cut out the parts and glue them together!

The drawings represent general form and breakdown into A4 next picture.

As a result of manufacturing, you will get such an aircraft model.

If you wish, you can scale the drawing to fit your needs, for example, enlarge it.

Let's dwell on a few moments of production.

The fuselage is quite simple to manufacture - in fact, a rectangular box.

Plywood or a piece of wooden ruler is glued to the nose of the aircraft model, and the engine mount is attached to it.

The wing has a pronounced V, usually on a model aircraft without ailerons from 3 to 5 degrees.

KFM5 profile, see more about such profiles.

Additional layers of ceiling are glued where the wing touches the fuselage. The wing is fastened with elastic bands; bamboo skewers or pieces of a wooden ruler are used as protrusions for attaching elastic bands.

The servos and receiver are placed under the wing, the battery is placed in the center of gravity (CG) of the aircraft model, this allows the use of batteries of different weights without shifting the CG.

Servo machines 5-9 grams, any receiver from 3 channels. Motor 2205-2208 with 1800-2600 rpm. Propeller 6x3-6x4, preferably folding, battery 2S 350-450 mAh.

• Download glider drawings can .

Watching how experienced modellers send record-breaking aircraft models into flight, one involuntarily arises a desire to try one's hand and make a small aircraft with one's own hands. Many and many generations of amateur designers went through this - having made the most simple model, were fond of more complex devices, gradually improved their skills. Below we will tell you how to build the simplest room model of a glider, in fact, a toy that can be placed in the palm of your hand and tested in an ordinary city apartment. This is very convenient, because it does not make you dependent on either the weather or your skill level. Such a glider can be made by both an adult and a schoolchild, having at hand the minimum necessary - a thin wooden stick, 3 mm thick foam sheet, a needle and thread and glue.

Generally speaking, you can still make your work easier if you use some blanks. Look into the kitchen - maybe you have thin wooden skewers for barbecue somewhere?

This skewer, 2 mm thick and 200 mm long, will be the perfect fuselage for your first model. Check that the skewer is not bent, and boldly set it aside - the fuselage is ready. Now let's go to the refrigerator. A couple of styrofoam packages from diet eggs is just what you need. The lid of such a package is usually made of 3 mm thick foam and from it you can cut out the wing, stabilizer and keel of the glider. If you have recently made repairs, then you could have Moment Installation glue (Liquid nails). This adhesive has White color and, applied in a thin layer, perfectly fastens foam parts.

Having prepared everything you need, let's get to work. Using templates, we cut out a rectangular wing, stabilizer, and also a keel from sheet foam. We process the edges of the resulting parts fine sandpaper so that there are no burrs. Next, with the help of a needle and thread, we attach the stabilizer to the fuselage - we “sew” it in two places, stepping back from the front and rear edges by 3-4 mm. Do not tighten the thread too much so that it does not push through the foam to the full thickness. Similarly, we attach the wing to the fuselage in the region of the trailing edge, and glue the leading edge of the wing to the sleeve put on the fuselage. The size of the sleeve is selected so that the angle of inclination of the wing is approximately 4 degrees. When working with a needle, be careful and do not forget about safety requirements. Lubricate the threads in the places where the stabilizer and wing are attached with a thin layer of glue. Lastly, glue the keel to the stabilizer. After the glue dries, the weight of the glider without cargo is about 4.5 grams. We fasten the load with threads to the forward part of the fuselage. As a weight, you can use a small metal screw or nut weighing 3.5 grams. A simple drawing or inscriptions can be applied to the wing and plumage of the glider using colored tape. Your first aircraft is ready to fly.

1 - fuselage; 2 - wing; 3 - keel; 4 - stabilizer; 5 - bushing; 6 - cargo

As trial runs of this model showed, it behaves well in flight, confidently overcoming 4-5 meters of the room “from wall to wall”. It is necessary to launch the model with a smooth movement of the hand, without jerks, as if accompanying its flight. The only thing that is desirable to foresee during the launch process is the conditions for a soft landing - the airframe design is quite fragile and a hard impact on an obstacle can destroy it.

Interestingly, at present, a whole trend in modeling has been formed, which provides for the widespread use of the so-called "ceiling" - thin foam panels for finishing ceilings. Both simple gliders and complex radio-controlled models with a motor are made from the ceiling. When you make your first aircraft out of foam sheet, you will get useful experience work with this material and, perhaps, in the future you will try your hand at the field of aviation ceilings (making models from ceiling tiles).

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Experienced aircraft modelers say - give us a decent penknife and we will build a flying model. And we advise you, before you start building a model, stock up on such a tool: a penknife, a planer, a hammer, a set of drawing accessories (ruler, square, compasses, protractor, pencil, rubber band).

In FIG. 123 shows a general view of a schematic model of the airframe. The model has the following main parts: rail - fuselage, wing and tail, consisting of a stabilizer and fin. Consider this model carefully, familiarize yourself with the parts of the model and remember their names.

Production of working drawings

To facilitate the construction of a well-flying model, we will have to draw in full size the following parts of it: the wing, the front of the fuselage, the stabilizer, the keel and the wing mount.

Working drawings of details are drawn only by contours.

The working drawing of the wing (Fig. 124) is done as follows: two parallel horizontal lines 900 mm long are drawn at a distance of 160 mm from each other. The upper horizontal line is divided into equal parts, 75 mm each. With the help of a square, perpendiculars are lowered from the marked points to the lower horizontal line. These lines represent the locations of the ribs. On the first and thirteenth ribs, it is necessary to find the middle and describe the rounding with a compass with a radius of 80 mm.

The stabilizer (Fig. 125) is drawn in the same way as the wing. The keel (Fig. 126) and the fuselage (Fig. 127) are somewhat different. In view of the complex shape of these parts and the difficulty of making a life-size drawing of them, we divided the drawing into cells to facilitate work and obtain the correct shape of the parts. The actual cell size is 10X10 mm. Cells must be correct, not skewed.

Materials for building a model

Now we need to prepare everything necessary materials. The model is made of pine, linden, aspen, walnut or willow twigs. The raw material must be dried before processing. For greater strength, the joints of the parts, as shown in the figures, in addition to gluing with carpentry or casein glue, are carefully wrapped with thin threads. Paste over the model with newsprint or any thick paper.

Model making

The construction must begin with the fuselage, then the keel, stabilizer and wing are built.

The fuselage rail is made from pine, linden, aspen or from straight walnut (or other species) rod, pre-cut and dried.

At the junction of the rail with the "load", it must be given a square section of 10X10 mm. The cargo is made from two boards of any kind of wood, processed with a knife and cleaned with glass and sandpaper. The thickness of the boards is 8-9 mm.

The junctions of the rail with the body are wrapped neatly with threads and then smeared with glue. The boards are connected to each other on both sides with cardboard overlays for glue and carnations or wire brackets. After final finishing, the body and rail can be painted in any color. The hook for launching the model from the handrail is made of 1 mm wire. The hook is driven into the lower part of the body (see Fig. 127).

The keel and rounding of the wing and stabilizer are made from the same type of wood as the entire model. Planed planks 2-3 mm thick and 10-15 mm wide should be straight-layered, without knots, otherwise they will break when bent. Before bending the planochki, it is recommended to soak for an hour in water (preferably hot). The soaked strips are bent on a cylindrical object - on a round piece of wood, a bottle, etc. Then you need to tie the ends of the strips with a thread and put to dry.

After drying, the rounding blanks are split with a knife into two parts and processed to the desired sections. The front and rear edges of the stabilizer are chipped from the same material to a section of 4X2 mm. The outer edges of the edge are rounded off. Their ends are ground on a mustache (Fig. 128) and attached to the roundings with the help of threads and glue. The transverse plank (rib) of the stabilizer (Fig. 129) is made larger than the width of the stabilizer. These tips extending beyond the contours of the stabilizer serve to tie the stabilizer to the fuselage rail.

The edges of the wing with a section of 7X4 mm are first planed, then processed with glass and sandpaper so that they get an oval section. Further, on the edges, according to the drawing, the places where the ribs should be placed are marked. In the middle, under the central rib, a 12° bend is made. The bending points are preliminarily well moistened with water, after which they are carefully and steeply bent over a spirit lamp or smokehouse. The bend must be the same on both edges (6° each).

For the manufacture of ribs planochki 1 mm thick and at least 10 mm wide. The blanks are soaked in water and bent in a specially made machine (Fig. 130). The method of bending the ribs is shown in Fig. 131. The ends of the ribs are clamped on the shoe with a bracket made of tin (Fig. 130, A). The dried curved strips are split into several parts and planed to a width of 4 mm. The central rib is made somewhat thicker than all the others.

The tips of all ribs are sharpened with a knife. On the edges, in places where there will be ribs, a puncture is made with the tip of a knife (Fig. 132) so carefully that the tip of the pointed rib fits tightly into it. The inserted ribs are aligned - they must all be the same height. The joints of the ribs with the edges are filled with glue. After drying, the wing is carefully straightened and the central post is tied to it (Fig. 133). It should be tied with threads smeared with glue as tightly as possible and strictly perpendicular to the leading and trailing edges of the wing (Fig. 134). The correct installation of the rack is checked on a flat table: the base of the rack is placed on the table, tightly tied to the table, and the height of the wing ends is measured. If one of the wing consoles is higher, then the rack is moved to the other side until they are aligned.

Before proceeding to close-fitting the model, the wing, stabilizer and keel are carefully straightened. The model is pasted over with newsprint or thick writing paper. The keel is covered on both sides. The wing is fitted in parts: first one half, then the other. Excess paper on the wing and stabilizer is not cut along the edge, but tucked in and glued; strip width - approximately 20 mm. After gluing and drying, the wing, stabilizer and keel are lightly sprayed with water using a spray bottle for better paper tension.

The manufactured parts of the model are checked, distortions and minor imperfections are eliminated. The stabilizer and keel are installed on the rear of the fuselage rail and tightly tied with threads. The stabilizer is attached directly to the fuselage rail. The wing is installed near the fuselage load, having previously determined the center of gravity of the model; it is not difficult to do this, one has only to put the fuselage (with tail) on the edge of the knife and move it until balance is achieved. The place of the center of gravity is marked with a pencil. The wing is set so that the front third of it falls just above the center of gravity. The wing strut is attached to the fuselage rail and tightly wrapped with thread.

Adjusting and running the model

The assembled model is checked by eliminating the distortions of the wing, stabilizer and keel. The correctness of the installation of the wing and tail unit is verified by looking at the model from the front. The stabilizer and keel must be located strictly perpendicular to each other.

You need to adjust the model in an open area in calm weather or with a weak even wind. The model is launched from the hands strictly against the wind, with a smooth push, lowering the nose of the model a little down.

The adjusted model can be launched from a hill or from a mountain, with a wind speed of no more than 5-6 m / s. The model also flies great when starting from the rail. You can also launch the model from an air postman raised on a kite. It is very easy to kite the model. At the very end of the rail-fuselage, a loop is made of thread, which is inserted into the postman's lock. The postman with the model climbs the rail to the kite up to the limiter, while the model hangs with its nose down. When the postman's lock is activated, the model first dives vertically for 8-10 m, and then exits the dive itself and begins free flight.

One such model, built by Valya Larionova, hovered for 15 minutes at the Moscow city competition of flying models, after which it was lost from sight.

People invented the glider a long time ago: it appeared much earlier than the airplane. Thinking about flying through the air many hundreds of years ago, people could not imagine flying otherwise than on an apparatus that looks like a bird and always flaps its wings. These thoughts are also reflected in the works of the brilliant Italian scientist and artist Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), who left behind a number of sketches of flapping aircraft (Fig. 80). Flying with flapping wings is also mentioned in ancient legends, for example, in the ancient Greek myth of Daedalus. Here is the myth.

The Greek sculptor and architect Daedalus was invited by the king of the island of Crete - Minos to perform a number of works. However, Minos did not want to let Daedalus and his young son Icarus go when the work required under the contract was completed. Under various pretexts, he interfered with the departure of the sculptor, forbidding him to be taken on ships or given a boat.

Daedalus was determined to return to his homeland. Being a skilled builder, he found a means for this: by collecting a large number of bird feathers, he made four large wings out of them with the help of thread and wax, for himself and Icarus.

Attaching these wings to their backs, Daedalus and Icarus jumped from the tower in which they were imprisoned and flew over the sea, flapping their wings. Delighted with the feeling of flight, Icarus rose higher and higher, despite his father's warnings, and approached the sun. The wax connecting the feathers was melted by the hot rays of the sun, the wings crumbled and Icarus fell into the sea...

This is the legend. Attempts to fly were made much later. However, in the end, people realized that the muscular strength of a person is not enough to imitate the flapping flight of birds. But the bird often flies without flapping, glides or soars in the air with fixed wings.

Noticing this, the inventors took a new path - the path of creating gliders. In Russia, as indicated in the manuscript of Daniil Zatochnik, found in the Chudov Monastery, such attempts were made even before the 13th century: even then people managed to make short gliding flights.

However, only at the end of the last century, scientists and engineers turned to the creation of a glider. Similar experiments were made by A.F. Mozhaisky. Before building his aircraft, Mozhaisky conducted lengthy research with glider kites. However, deciding not to be distracted from the main task - the creation of an aircraft (which he completed in 1882), Mozhaisky abandoned his experiments with gliders.

The works of Mozhaisky were continued in the works of S. S. Nezhdaiovsky, who built a number of models of gliders in the 90s of the 19th century, which flew steadily and well after unhooking from the cable on which these gliders were launched.

Of great interest were the flights of the German researcher Otto Lilienthal, who, continuing the experiments of his predecessors, performed from 1891 to 1896 about 2000 gliding flights on balapsyrpy gliders designed and built by him. In August 1896, Lilienthal had an accident and died.

The word "balancing" means that the glider pilot maintains balance during the flight, balancing with his body (Fig. 81).

Professor N. E. Zhukovsky led the propaganda of gliding flights in Russia. A whole generation of Russian planoists grew up from among the students of Zhukovsky: B. I. Rossiiskin, A. V. Shiukov, K. K. Artseulov, P. N. Nesterov, G. S. Tereverko and others. gliders.

Successes in the field of aircraft creation interrupted work on gliders for a rather long period of time. They returned to them after the First World War of 1914-1918. Especially persistently the construction of gliders and flights on them were deployed
Germans.

They had special reasons for this: Germany was defeated in the First World War and was deprived of the right to build military aircraft and have military aviation and the corresponding flight personnel.

The Germans managed to circumvent the ban on the production of military aircraft - they began to build them in other countries. But flight personnel had to be trained in Germany itself. It was for this purpose that the glider came in handy, which made it possible to quickly and without high costs train pilots.

Many other countries followed the example of the Germans. There were special schools in which glider pilots were trained. Aircraft factories began to produce gliders for training purposes - simple, cheap and low-maintenance machines that were easy to build in handicraft workshops.

It was soon discovered that light gliders were capable of not only gliding, but also soaring, gaining great height and perform many aerobatic maneuvers. This allowed, along with flight training, to carry out sports work. Competitions for distance and duration of flight, altitude and carrying capacity, performance of figures, etc., have become genuine holidays in gliding. They attracted a large number of young people to glider schools and aviation and turned glider flights into a mass sports movement - gliding.

A variety of sports and technical tasks that arose before glider pilots required the design and construction of special types of gliders. There was a division of gliders into training and sports.

Later, military experts came to the conclusion that gliders, as aircrafts, having a low cost with high aerodynamic qualities, transport gliders, and then landing gliders, could be successful.

Landing is the landing of troops on enemy territory. Previously, amphibious assaults were known. With the advent of aviation, airborne landings also became possible: troops landed on enemy territory from aircraft or gliders, which for this purpose flew behind enemy lines and landed there. If it was impossible to land, they began to drop troops and weapons by parachute (parachute assault forces).

The first gliders - balancing - took off very simply. The glider pilot, pulling the longitudinal bars above the waist, kept the glider in the air. Standing against the wind on a fairly steep slope (Fig. 81), he ran down it against the wind until he felt that the wings give sufficient lift. Then, pulling up his legs, the glider pilot allowed the apparatus to fly, while he himself cared only about maintaining balance.

On a balancing glider, the glider hangs on his hands all the time. You can’t fly like that for a long time, since the glider, meeting the flow at full height, increases the resistance of the glider. Therefore, balancing gliders have long been abandoned.

On fig. 82, a and 82.6 shows a modern record glider. Its basis is narrow and long wings. They are mounted on a streamlined fuselage. In front of the fuselage is a cockpit in which the glider is placed. The cockpit contains instruments that allow the glider pilot to control the altitude and speed of flight - altitude indicators (altimeter) and speed. They are posted on the dashboard. There is also a device that indicates the vertical speed of planning - a variometer.

The glider pilot sits behind a large transparent "glass" (it is curved from transparent plastic). The glider pilot's legs rest on the pedals: by turning them, he sets the rudder in motion. In the right hand of the glider pilot, the elevator control stick is clamped. The handle and pedal are connected to the rudders with cables. Moving the stick sideways can control the ailerons and roll the glider with them or correct accidental rolls.

Such a glider takes off and lands on a special ski.

To take off a glider, it was often used to launch on a rubber cord (shock absorber). The middle of a long rubber shock absorber was attached to a hook in the nose of the airframe. The glider was fixed on the ground with a special device. The starting team, having broken into two parts, began to pull the free ends of the shock absorber, slightly diverging to the sides (Fig. 83). When the resulting giant slingshot was stretched enough, the glider pilot, using the handle located in the cockpit, released the glider from the stopper, and the glider was thrown into the air.

Such a launch can be made on a fairly steep slope. Therefore, having taken off on a shock absorber, the glider can glide as long as there is a slope.

The described start requires slopes, which are not available everywhere. In addition, he throws the glider to a low altitude. For this reason, many other methods of launching a glider have long been used.

One of them can be called a motostart. It is done like this. In front of the glider, at the required distance from it, a motorized winch is installed. The cable from it stretches to the glider. At a signal from the plaperist, the operator turns on the winch drum, and the cable begins to “get out” at normal speed and pulls the glider behind it, which, leaving the ground, goes higher and higher. At the right moment, the glider pilot drops the cable and goes into free flight.

Another way is to tow the plaper by plane. The aircraft and glider are connected by a towline and take off together. Having reached a predetermined height, which can be large, the glider unhooks and goes into free flight.

Towing gliders by aircraft is also used in cases where it is necessary to transfer gliders over long distances. Sometimes, if the aircraft has the required power, it will tow two or three or more gliders. The combination of an aircraft and towed gliders was called an air train.

Of great interest is the free flight on a glider. As you know, when planning along an inclined trajectory, the glider passes some way every second. If in the same second the air, in turn, rises up, then, dragging the glider with it, it will also lift it. As a result, if the speed of the ascending air flow is large enough - more than the rate of descent of the glider in still air - then in 1 second the glider will not be at point B (Fig. 84), as it would be in the absence of ascending flows, but at point C lying higher than the starting point A.

Such flight in updrafts, without loss of altitude or with its gain, is called soaring. And how ascending currents arise, see A LITTLE THEORY. AIR, PROPERTIES, RESEARCH.

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Former Soviet air sportsmen in the era of the development of gliders have achieved outstanding success in all areas of gliding. If in pre-revolutionary Russia only individuals were engaged in glider flights, then after the Great October Socialist Revolution, hundreds and thousands of people began to practice this sport.

Already in 1921 in Moscow, a group of military pilots organized a glider club "Soaring Flight". The members of the circle not only designed and built gliders themselves, but also carried out organizational and propaganda work. By 1923, they organized up to 10 glider circles: in Moscow. Voronezh, Kharkov, Podolsk, Narofominsk, etc.

In two Moscow circles - "Soaring Flight" and the Academy of the Air Fleet - they built gliders of the system of K. K. Artseulov, B. I. Cheranovsky and now an honored worker of science and technology, and then a student of the Academy - V. S. Pyshnov. S. V. Ilyushin, then a student and now a well-known designer of the famous Il aircraft, began his activity in the circle of the Academy.

In 1923, the newly organized Society of Friends of the Air Fleet, together with the leaders of the Soaring Flight circle, prepared the first all-Union meeting of glider pilots, which took place in November 1923 in the Crimea, in the town of Koktebel, not far from Feodosia. And although only 10 gliders participated in the rally, it was here that the foundations of Soviet gliding were laid.

In 1925, there were already more than 250 glider circles in the USSR, uniting several thousand people.

In 1925, our glider pilots participated in the International Gliding Competition in Ron (Germany), from where they returned with four honorary prizes. In the same 1925, foreign glider pilots flew at the start of the third all-Union glider rally. Here our glider pilots won two world records.

In subsequent years, Soviet athletes set one record after another.

In 1936, the master of Soviet gliding, V. M. Ilchenko, set the first official international record for the flight distance on a multi-seat glider, covering a distance of 133.4 km. In 1938, he brought this record to 552.1 km. In 1937, the glider pilot Rastorguev on a single-seat glider Groshev (GN-7) showed a range of 652.3 km. Two years later, Olga Klepikova increased the range to 749.2 km. And finally, after a break caused by the Great Patriotic War, Ilchenko set a new outstanding glider flight distance record by landing at a point 825 km away from the take-off point in a straight line.

Of course, now gliders have receded into the historical past in aviation. But nevertheless, they are used, both by private individuals and by the state, mainly for training and familiarization with flight practice.

Model aircraft, in fact, are the younger brothers of glider pilots and professional pilots. Practicing in building the simplest models, they nevertheless acquire the necessary skills and knowledge in the process and launch of the models. However, it is not immediately possible to obtain high knowledge and good skills. You always have to start with something simpler.

This chapter provides a description of the simplest airframe model, with which it is recommended to start working on airframes. It is called a schematic airframe model.

DEVICE OF THE SCHEMATIC MODEL OF THE AIRFLIGHT

Previously, descriptions of large gliders, on which our glider pilots fly, have already been given. Look now at fig. 85: This is a schematic model of an airframe. We see that instead of a thick fuselage that can accommodate a glider (and sometimes several people), our model has only a rail. Instead of the thick wings and empennage that every real glider has, our model has a thin wing and an equally thin stabilizer and fin.

True, there is a load in the forward part of the rail (Fig. 85), which gives the rail some resemblance to the fuselage, but this similarity exists as long as we look at the model from the side, and looking at it from the front, we will notice that the cargo is flat and there is almost no volume. It has.

That is why the model is called schematic, that is, it resembles a real glider (according to the diagram), but still differs from it, since it does not have a fuselage.

The model is very simple in its structure. In addition to a long and thin rail, on the nose of which a wooden “weight” is nailed, it has a wing (Fig. 86) and plumage, consisting of a keel and a stabilizer.

The wing, if you look at the model from above, has a trapezoidal shape, and in front - a transverse V, familiar to us from paper models. The wing core consists of the leading and trailing edges, interconnected by ribs. Of the seven ribs, both extreme ones are straight, the rest are slightly curved. Under the central rib there is a bar with which the wing is attached to the rail.

Rice. 86. Schematic model of the airframe in three views: top - side view, middle - top view, bottom - view

The stabilizer is a rectangular frame, and the keel has the shape of a trapezoid. Close-fitting - made of thin (cigarette) paper - is glued to the wing and stabilizer on top. The keel is fitted on both sides.

Two small hook nails are driven into the rail under the wing (Fig. 86). These hooks are used to launch the model on a thread (rail).

Without a drawing, it is difficult to correctly build a model. Drawings in engineering are used always and everywhere when you need to build something or depict a device.

A drawing of a model is its image in several projections. These projections are obtained as follows. On fig. 87 shows a model hanging in the air among three mutually perpendicular planes. If on a horizontal plane we depict everything that we see when we look at the model from above, then we get the so-called "top view". An image on a vertical plane of what is seen from the side (in our figure - on the left) will give a "side view". We will also get a "front view". If these three types are not enough, then additional types are made.

Dimensions are written on the projections separate parts, and sometimes indicate the material from which they are made. If the projections are obtained as shown in Fig. 87, then the dimensions of the parts in the drawing will be the same as those of the model. In this case, the drawing is said to be drawn to one-to-one scale, or life-size.

It is possible, however, to do otherwise: having projections made in full size, they reduce all sizes by the same number of times. It turns out a reduced image of the model also in several projections. If the reduction is made by 10 times, then they say that the drawing is made on a scale of one to ten (one tenth of natural size). In short, this is written as follows: M = 1:10.

On fig. 86 shows a drawing of the described schematic model of the airframe on a scale of 1: 10. Having it before our eyes, let's move on to building the model.

Preparing to build the model

Our airframe model is built from the simplest materials. To build it, you need to prepare: a pine plank 8-10 mm thick, several dry pine slats (slats from model aircraft package No. 4 are suitable), a sheet of tissue or thin writing paper, a spool of thread, casein or carpentry glue and several small carnations.

Of the tools you will need: a small knife, a sharp knife, a hammer, scissors.

DRAWING A WORK DRAWING

Before you start building a model, you need to draw its working drawing, i.e., a life-size drawing. On fig. 88 it is drawn on a scale of 1:10. Exactly the same drawing, but in full size, you need to draw on a piece of paper. For work, it is more convenient to draw not the entire model, but its individual parts. On fig. 88 drawn half of the wing, keel and stabilizer.

To draw a wing, an axial line is drawn in the upper part of a sheet of paper (dotted line in Fig. 88) 400-450 mm long. Then, at the left end of the center line, another line 130-150 mm long is drawn perpendicular to it. Lay along this line up and down from the axial 60 mm each - these will be the ends of the middle (central) rib. At a distance of 125 mm from the first line, the same and at the same distance the second and third lines are drawn. They indicate the location of the wing ribs. On the last perpendicular, 375 mm from the first, lay 35 mm up and down - these will be the ends of the extreme rib of the wing. The slanted lines will indicate the edges of the wing edges, and their intersection with the other two perpendiculars will give the dimensions of the middle two ribs.

On fig. 88 shows the length of each rib and the width of the wing tip. After the edges of the wing are drawn, the shape of the wing half will be clearly defined. Now you can circle all the lines again with a pencil, pressing harder on it. All extra lines must be erased with an elastic band so that the drawing of the wing is also clean.

The stabilizer has simple form, and drawing it is not difficult. It can be drawn entirely - it will take up little space. It is just as easy to draw a keel. It is more difficult to draw a load (Fig. 89), but this difficulty can be circumvented by drawing a load that is close in shape to that shown in our figure. A slight change in the shape of the weight will not impair the flight performance of the model. But still it is important that the weight has dimensions: 60 mm in height and 185 mm in length.

More precisely, the weight can be drawn in the cells, as indicated by the par rms. 89. (Thus, it is possible to redraw, at the same time increasing many times over, any curly details.)

After all the details of the model are drawn, and the extra lines are erased, you need to carefully put down all the dimensions, comparing them with Fig. 88. The working drawing is ready. You can proceed to the construction of the model.

RAIL MANUFACTURING

The construction of the model must begin with the manufacture of rails. For this purpose, you can use the finished rail from the package. If the lath is thicker than necessary, it should be trimmed with a planer to a thickness of 5X10 mm and cleaned fine sandpaper. Plane thick turnips on a table or a special stand. One end of the turnip, placed on the workbench, should rest against the stop made in advance. It is necessary to plan the rail gradually, removing thin shavings from it and making sure that its cross section is rectangular, 5x10 mm in size.

If there is no slats from the model aircraft package, it can be sawn off from the main board and then planed. To do this, choose a straight-layer board with a thickness of 10-15 mm, without knots. Such a board allows you to do without a saw - it easily pricks into thin slats (torches). You need to chop the board with a small hatchet or a large knife (mower). Having chosen from the obtained torches suitable in size, they plan it with a planer and process it with sandpaper. The finished turnip should be straight. If for some reason this did not work out, it is necessary to level it over the fire. I

A weight is cut out of a plank 8-10 mm thick and at least 60 mm wide, using a previously made drawing. For this purpose, you can redraw the shape of the weight on a board using carbon paper or chop it. You can cut the weight with a knife, but better with a jigsaw. Since the thickness of the weight should not exceed 8 mm, you first need to bring the plank to the required thickness with a planer. After the weight is cut out, its edges, except for the top, need to be slightly rounded and cleaned with sandpaper; the upper part of the weight should be flat, since a rail is nailed to it on three studs 20-25 mm long; the junction is pre-coated with glue.

In the back of the rail, two grooves are cut with a knife at a distance of 100 mm from one another. The first groove must be cut at a distance of 10 mm from the rear end of the rail. These grooves are necessary for installing and securing the edges of the stabilizer.

The construction of the wing begins with the simplest part - the bar. It is needed to install the wing on the rail at a certain angle. The shape and dimensions of the bar are shown in fig. 90. A plank is made from a pine lath using a planer and a knife. The front edge of the bar is made 10 mm high, the rear - 6 mm. At a distance of 120 mm from each other, two grooves are cut in the upper side of the bar rectangular shape, size 5X3 mm. On the underside, small semicircular grooves for threads are cut under these grooves. The finished bar is carefully cleaned with sandpaper.

For the manufacture of the wing, you will need thin slats with a section of 5 X 3 mm and 5 X 1.5 mm. Such slats are planed with a planer from thin splinter or suitable planks taken from the parcel.

Plane thin slats need to be more careful and accurate than thick ones. It is impossible, when strict lath, to rest with the end against the stop, as when planing a thick lath, since in this case a thin lath will easily break. It must be held with the left hand at the rear end and driven with a planer with the right, only forward from the left hand. For more accurate compliance with the dimensions of the section of the rails and greater convenience, you can plan the rails by "pulling". To do this, you need to nail two strips of plywood 5 mm thick to a table or workbench. (If such plywood is not available, you can use thinner plywood by placing several layers under it thick paper.) Strips of plywood are nailed so that a groove 8-10 mm wide remains between them.

When planing, the rail is installed on the groove. From above, it is pressed with a planer, after which, holding the planer, the rail is pulled back (Fig. 91). This work is best done together: one holds the planer, the other holds out the rail. You need to stretch the rail several times until the planer finally stops taking chips. This will indicate that the rail is the correct thickness.

Having taken it out of the groove, turn the rail 90 ° and lay it in the groove between two other plywood strips, the thickness of which is selected in accordance with required dimensions rail sections. For the wing edges, the groove width should be approximately 5 mm and the thickness of the plywood plates exactly 3 mm.

The slats for the front and rear edges are cut out with a length of about 800 mm, with a margin. Having superimposed them on the drawing of the wing and noting the middle, the edges are bent in these places above the flame of an alcohol lamp or above a candle. wooden details it is best to bend over an electric soldering iron. The edges of the wing in the center are bent upwards - at an angle of 15 ° and back - in accordance with the drawing of the wing (see Fig. 88). So that the tree does not catch fire during bending, it must be moistened with water at the bending point. You should not rush to bend the edge before it warms up: after warming up, it bends more easily. The edge should not be kept above the flame for a long time in one place, otherwise the water will quickly evaporate and the wood will start to burn. You should also not strive to get a bend at an acute angle; a smooth bend of the wing edges is quite acceptable.

For ribs, you need to take rails 200-250 mm long and 5 X 1.5 mm thick and bend them in accordance with the drawing (Fig. 93).

Before you start assembling the wing, you need to mark on both edges with a pencil the places where the ribs will be located. The edges are installed in grooves cut in the plank and pre-lubricated with glue. Both edges are carefully threaded to the bar (Fig. 94).

From rails with a cross section of 5 X 1.5 mm, two (flat) end ribs are made according to the drawing. The ends of the ribs are sharpened with a knife in the form of a wedge. The ends of the edges are split with a knife blade and end ribs are inserted into the crevices, having previously smeared the joints with glue (Fig. 95). All other ribs that have a bulge are adjusted in length exactly according to the drawing. The tips of each of them are also sharpened.

The edges of the wing in the places where the ribs should be are pierced with the end of the knife and the ribs smeared with glue are inserted into the punctures (Fig. 96). Then all joints are once again smeared with glue, distortions are eliminated, after which the wing is laid on a flat table to dry.

Rice. Fig. 96. Method of fixing the ribs on the edges of the wing. 97. Fixing the edges of the stabilizer and keel on the rail

TAIL ASSEMBLY

While the wing is drying, the front and rear edges of the stabilizer and keel are made from the remaining 5X3 mm thick rails. The dimensions of the edges must exactly match the drawing. Having inserted the edges of the stabilizer into the grooves cut in the back of the rail and smeared with glue, as before, they tie the edges to the rail with thin threads (Fig. 97). Then, end ribs are made from rails with a section of 5 X 1.5 mm and fixed in the same way as for the wing. Having smeared the joints of the stabilizer again with glue, allow the stabilizer to dry.

Meanwhile, the ends of the front and rear edges of the keel are sharpened in the form of a wedge. With the tip of a knife, slots are made in the rail (Fig. 97), into which the edges of the keel are inserted with the pointed ends, smearing them with glue. Finally, the end rib of the keel is installed, as was done with the stabilizer, and once again all the joints are smeared with glue.

After complete drying of the finished parts of the model, you need to carefully check for distortions and eliminate them. Warps of the wing and stabilizer are eliminated by carefully twisting them in the direction opposite to the warp. If the wing after such a procedure still remains skewed, then it must be straightened over the flame of the spirit lamp, warming up the edges and ribs and at the same time twisting the wing in the direction opposite to the skew.

Only after the final alignment of the wing and tail assembly can the frame of the model be considered complete.

COVER MODEL

P Before the close-fitting of the model, the entire frame must be carefully cleaned with sandpaper from dirt that could stick to the edges and ribs during assembly and elimination of distortions. It is better to fit the model with tissue paper or thin writing paper. You need to glue the close-fitting with liquid casein or carpentry glue.

The close-fitting of the model begins with the tail unit. A piece of paper comes off so that it is enough for half the stabilizer and one side of the keel. One half of the stabilizer and one side of the keel are smeared with glue. The part of the rail located between the edges of the stabilizer must also be smeared with glue. Stretching the paper in different directions, put it first on the stabilizer, and then on the keel. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the paper sticks well everywhere (Fig. 98).

They also glue the second half of the stabilizer and the other side of the keel. Thus, the stabilizer is covered on the upper side, and the keel on both sides.

After the glue dries, the excess paper is scraped off with sandpaper or cut off with a knife.

The wing is covered in the same way as the tail unit. First, one half is covered, from the central rib to the edge, then the other (Fig. 98). It is impossible to fit two halves of the wing with one sheet at the same time: wrinkles will definitely turn out. When tightening the wing, it is necessary to ensure that the covering is well glued to the ribs. Excess paper, as well as when covering the tail, is scraped off with sandpaper or cut off with a knife.

PREPARATION FOR LAUNCH

Before strengthening the wing on the rail, it is necessary to determine the location of the center of gravity of the rail with the tail unit.

To do this, putting the rail on the edge of the ruler or the blade of the knife and moving the rail to the right and left, they achieve its balance. Having avenged on the rail with a pencil the place where the center of gravity is located, the wing is installed on the rail. The wing is fixed on the rail with threads or thin (1X1 mm) rubber so that the center of gravity is exactly under the first third of the width of the central part of the wing (i.e., at a distance of 40 mm), if it is counted from the leading edge.

ADJUSTMENT AND STARTING

What is regulation

In the process of assembling the model, they strive to give it the correct centering and eliminate any asymmetry, distortions, etc. (Fig. 99). But since everyone does this by eye, it is, of course, difficult to obtain exact symmetry and complete elimination of distortions. Therefore, it is necessary to release the model into flight and, by the nature of its flight, judge the correctness of the assembly, make corrections, and then run the model again and refine the assembly again, make changes to the position of the parts of the model. This is called model tuning.

It is better to adjust the model in calm weather, and it is necessary to start the model while standing. When starting, the model should be held with the right hand by the rail - under the wing and slightly behind the center of gravity. The model is launched by tilting it slightly down and pushing it smoothly and not strongly. A strong push will cause the model to soar upwards and may break it (Fig. 100). With a slight push, the model will go into a steep dive. Such a flight can be considered normal when the poi model flies 15-20 m when launched by hand, and its flight is smooth.

Sometimes the model flies, describing waves, then soaring, then diving (Fig. 100). Such a flight is the result of improper installation of the wing: it is necessary, by placing a piece of cardboard or a match under the back of the bar, to reduce the angle of attack of the wing.

If the model still dives with a well-chosen push, you need to increase the angle of installation of the koyla. If, when planning, the model flies along a curve - it turns to the side, this indicates a skew of the wing or tail or other asymmetry of the assembly. In such cases, it is necessary to carefully check the correct assembly of the model. A correctly assembled model flies smoothly and without turns.

After preliminary adjustment, the model can be launched from a hill, slope, etc.

LAUNCH ON THE LEER

The most interesting is the launch of the glider model on the rail. For a light glider, a handrail is made of bobbin thread No. 10 or 30. A ring of 1 mm thick wire or even a paper clip is tied to the end of the thread. At a distance of 5-10 cm from the ring, a piece of colored matter is strengthened (Fig. 101); this makes it easier to notice the moment of detachment of the lifeline from the model.

Launching from the lifeline is performed by two modelers: the assistant unwinds 30-40 meters of the lifeline and holds it with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand; having wound another one and a half to two meters of thread from the spool, he shifts the spool to right hand. So you need to hold the handrail so that with a strong gust of wind the thread can slip between the fingers of the left hand, which serve as a kind of brake that softens the jerk from the gust of wind. If you neglect this precaution, a gust of wind can break the model's wings.

The aircraft modeler releases the model up at a large angle (Fig. 101). The assistant at this moment runs with the rail against the wind, while trying to observe the flight of the model. If the model aircraft begins to roll or roll from side to side, he should run slower.

With a strong roll and when the nose of the model is lowered down, the coil must be thrown, after which the model must level itself, and the handrail should be unhooked. With the correct take-off of the model on the rail, it rises as Kite. When the model aircraft reaches a height approximately equal to the length of the rail, the ring will come off and the model aircraft will unhook.

In windy weather, the handrail ring must be hooked to the first hook, in calm weather - to the second, located closer to the center of gravity.

Having mastered the launch of the model on a short rail, you can launch it on a rail with a length of 100-150 meters or more; in this case, a well-made model plans up to three minutes.