When hunting, a knife is needed in order to chop branches for installation, cut bread for dinner, and, if you're lucky, butcher the hunted animal. Here, perhaps, and all its functions. The main thing that hunting knife was comfortable, lay well in the hand, and the shape of the handle did not tire the owner during operation. How good a hunting knife is, you can only find out in practice.

Any knife, including a hunting one, includes a blade and a handle. In principle, it is possible to make a hunting knife completely on your own, which would fully satisfy your needs. But it hardly makes sense to do this, since for the manufacture of a blade it can be quite difficult to find steel of suitable quality, not to mention it at home.

In addition, there is a quite satisfactory range of quality blades on sale. But here the handle, being the same important part of the knife as the blade, often does not at all meet the requirements for it by both the hunter-fisherman and the amateur hunter. But it is quite possible to replace the handle of a knife with a high-quality and suitable blade at home.

Making a one-piece handle for a hunting knife.

Artistic handles - with cutouts for fingers, a bend in the tail section and a guard - are more of interest to weapon collectors. It is better for a hunter to have a straight handle, without frills and decor. The dimensions of the knife handle should be such that the knife sits firmly and confidently in the hand. The handle should be 3-3.5 cm longer than the width of the palm.

With the right grip, the ends of the middle, ring and little fingers should not touch the base of the thumb, and the ends of the index and thumb, on the contrary, should slightly overlap each other. But the final decision is made solely taking into account the individual preferences of each hunter.

The handle can be made from any piece of wood, but it is best to take a blank from. Moreover, from certain places of the trunk. First of all, this is an outgrowth at the butt, called a kapokorn, or a brush. It is permeated with dormant buds, so a ringed pattern appears on the cross section, like that of the Karelian birch.

Secondly, a simple burl, a curly outgrowth on the trunk. There are almost never sleeping buds in it, but the structure is beautiful, iridescent. Thirdly, inner part trunk, where a large bough departs from the very core. The wood from these places is also good because the layers there are very small, and it is dense.

Before processing, the workpiece must be thoroughly dried in the shade. When it is rough cut and hewn, it can be connected to the blade. The blade should have a continuation in the form of a shank longer than the future handle, and the end of the shank should have a thread for the mounting nut. Firstly, it will be possible to change the handle and, secondly, to avoid transverse rivets, which are difficult to install and do not always hold well, and they do not add beauty.

Before processing, the workpiece of the knife handle can be boiled in water and then allowed to dry thoroughly. Its color will change (it will become darker), and it will be easier to process. It is better to finish the finish not with varnishing (varnishing slides in the hand), but by boiling the workpiece in linseed oil.

In a metal vessel, for example, in a large tin can or other utensils, it is necessary to pour enough linseed oil so that the workpiece floats freely in it. The jar must be heated in a sand bath. The oil should barely boil. At this time, air bubbles will intensively come out of the ends of the workpiece. This boiling oil fills the pores of the wood. The procedure should last two or three hours, or even more.

After drying the handle for two to three weeks, you can put it on the knife and, if necessary, process it additionally. It is much easier to do this after boiling wood in linseed oil, its structure is revealed, and it itself acquires a deep color and becomes, as it were, harder and heavier.

Mounting the handle blank on the blade shank of a hunting knife.

To put the blank of the future handle on the blade shank, it must be drilled through. The drill should be longer than the future handle. This does not require any high-precision machines. The drill is fixed in the chuck of the electric drill, and the drill itself is pressed with a clamp to the workbench or in a horizontal position.

The workpiece must be carefully pushed onto a rotating drill. You will have to drill at least two holes at a slight angle to each other; then the undrilled must be selected with a long thin chisel. At the front end, instead of a guard, you can put a metal plate and a leather (2-3 mm) gasket. Having put the handle blank on the shank and firmly fastened it with a nut, you should bring it to the desired shape with rasps, coarse, fine and polishing skins.

Type-setting can be made of birch bark or birch bark with layers of leather. Birch bark 2-3 mm thick is boiled in water for a couple of hours to become soft, and then thoroughly dried. Then the sheet is cut into rectangles about 3 × 5 cm in size. A hole is cut in the center of each with a sharp knife or chisel, corresponding to the section of the place of the shank where this rectangle will fit.

So you will not have to cut holes in advance, but only before putting a piece on the shank. The knife should be clamped in a vice vertically with the shank up. In order not to spoil the blade, a piece of thick plywood must be inserted between it and the vise jaws. First, put a metal plate on the shank. Then you can dial the handle, carefully pressing each next piece to the previous one.

We must not forget that the layers in adjacent plates must be perpendicular. You can coat them with waterproof quick-drying glue. The last piece of birch bark must be pressed with a nut through a metal plate of the appropriate shape. The threaded part of the shank should be quite long. The fact is that by screwing the nut, you compress the entire set on the handle, and it shortens a little.

As a result, it may be necessary to unscrew the nut several times, put additional pieces of birch bark and tighten it again. When the nut is screwed completely, you can proceed to the finish. Cut off the excess birch bark with a very sharp and fine file. For such a handle you do not need any varnishes, oils and other finishing materials, it is enough to clean it with a fine sandpaper.

Based on the materials of the book “Fishing tackle and hunting equipment with your own hands. Manufacturing and repair.
Storozhev Konstantin.

All photos from the article

Nowadays, you can buy a knife of almost any configuration, but many people prefer homemade options, as they are made according to an individual project and can have any configuration. For comfortable use, it is important to make a comfortable handle, and in order for it to serve for a long time, special impregnation of the wooden handle of the knife with certain compounds is necessary, and then we will consider how to do the work correctly.

What is needed for work

Before starting the workflow, you need to make sure that you have everything you need at hand, the list may vary, but the main components are the same:

Blade of knife	This part must be finished, since you need to see what kind of shank the workpiece has, it directly depends on this further work. This element is most often ordered from specialist blacksmiths or purchased ready-made from artisans.
Handle material	Most often, wood with an interesting texture is taken, it can be walnut, maple, oak or other options you like, the blanks should be a little larger than necessary. You can cut them yourself, the sawing direction is selected so that the texture is presented in the most favorable light.
fasteners	This includes primarily epoxy resin through which all components are connected. Rivets are also sometimes required, for this it is easiest to use a copper or brass rod, which must have the appropriate diameter.
Impregnation	High-quality impregnation for a wooden knife handle is also very important. For this, a special dish varnish or linseed oil is most often used, which can be purchased at any art store.
Tool	Used for work as manual options- a hacksaw, planer and, as well as a power tool. With it, you can do everything necessary operations much easier and faster

Important! For work, select dry wood without loose areas, only durable material with low humidity guarantees the reliability of the handles during use.

Description of the workflow

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine which type of handle will be used in this case, there are two main options.

Types of handles

Everything is pretty simple here:

• Insert type options are used for blades with a narrow shank.. As the name implies, the assembly consists in fixing the blade in the cavity, which is made at the end of the handle. The advantage of such solutions is that the handle is solid without any joints.

• Overlay options are used for blades with wide shanks, this is a more common option, which differs in that the handle consists of two halves that need to be perfectly aligned with each other for the best comfort of use.

Product assembly

The work is carried out differently depending on the type of shank, we will first consider the plug-in option:

• A workpiece is taken and a certain shape is given to it, this is done with the help of any improvised means - hacksaws, jigsaws, cutters and other devices. When you get a rough version, you need to bring it to the ideal with sandpaper, but you can also use it.

• Further, a hole is drilled in the end, the depth of which should be equal to the length of the shank on the blade. If you want to expand the hole, then this is done using a needle file. As a result, the shank should sit freely on the handle.
• Now let's look at how and with what to impregnate the wooden handle of a knife; for this, a water bath is made, i.e. a small pot is placed in a large pot of water, into which linseed oil is poured. A handle is lowered into it and held there until air stops escaping from the material, after which the elements are removed, wiped and left to dry and cool for a couple of hours.

• After the pen dries, you need to prepare the epoxy resin (the instructions will tell you how to do it right). The composition is mixed with small sawdust and the prepared cavity is filled with this mixture, after which the blade is inserted into it. Do not forget to check its even location, then leave the product for a day, then you can use the knife.

Important! Epoxy can leave marks that are hard to remove when it hits a metal surface, so it's best to wrap the blade with tape or duct tape to prevent contamination.

Overhead options are done a little differently:

• The workpiece is cut lengthwise into two halves, to do this work with your own hands, you will need to secure the tree in a vise so that you can precisely control the workflow. The halves are brought to perfect condition in the same way as described above. For this, any tools and devices convenient for you are used, the surface is brought to the ideal with sandpaper.
• Next, you need to drill holes for the rivets, for this the handle is securely attached to the shank and drilling is carried out immediately through all the elements, so you are guaranteed to get perfectly aligned holes.
• After that, it is necessary to make blanks for rivets, their diameter must match the holes, and the length must be equal to the thickness of all elements.
• The oil impregnation process is described above, you can do it after assembly, but it is better to do it in advance so that the elements are processed with the highest quality from all sides.

• Epoxy resin is being prepared, the internal parts of the halves of the handle, the metal shank, and the rivets are lubricated with it. All elements are assembled into a single whole, after which they are wrapped in a piece of rubber and wrapped with tape for tight fixation.
• A day later, the product is inspected, if necessary, the excess epoxy is cleaned. Oil treatment can be repeated if the surface had to be cleaned heavily.

Conclusion

We looked at how to make and how to process a wooden knife handle so that it is not only beautiful, but also reliable and durable. The video in this article will explain some important features of the workflow and help you understand it even better.

One of the most commonly used materials for the manufacture of typesetting knife handles is birch bark.

There are, of course, lovers of plexiglass handles, in Soviet time“Zon work” knives were full of multi-colored plastic handles mixed with plexiglass, but such a handle is inconvenient - it slips and is not too grippy.

But the birch bark handle on the knife is devoid of these shortcomings.

The typesetting handle of a knife is usually made of either birch bark or birch bark with the addition of leather. Pure leather typesetting handles not practical - they look beautiful in the collection, but are prone to decay and require constant care.

So it is better to make a homemade knife handle from birch bark. Yes, and it comes out cheaper - you can collect birch bark yourself.

How to make a knife handle from birch bark

The collected birch bark with a thickness of 2-3 mm should be boiled in slightly salted water for about 2 hours until soft, and then dried well. The finished sheet must be cut into rectangular pieces, the size of which is 3x5cm.

A hole is made in the center of each rectangle with a sharp knife or chisel. It must match in section to a certain place of the shank into which the rectangle will be inserted. Therefore, the hole is cut immediately before it is installed on the shank, and not before.

During operation, the knife is pre-clamped in a vise with the shank pointing upwards. To prevent damage to the blade, you need to insert pieces of thick plywood between its surface and the vise.

But before that, a metal plate must be put on the shank. The set of the handle is carried out by carefully connecting all the pieces of birch bark, you can even coat them with quick-drying waterproof glue. It is necessary to remember about the perpendicular arrangement of layers in neighboring plates.

The last part of the birch bark is pressed with a nut through a metal plate of the desired shape, while the shank must have a long threaded part. This is due to the fact that during the tightening of the nut, the entire set on the handle is compressed and at the same time shortened.

Therefore, you have to unscrew the nut all the time, add pieces of birch bark and tighten it again. After the final screwing of the nut, the final finishing of the handle begins, while it is necessary to carefully cut off the excess birch bark with a very sharp knife, and then process the finished part with a small file.

Do not use varnishes, oils and other materials to finish the handle. Instead, it's better with fine skins clean it up well.

A homemade birch bark knife handle will serve you faithfully for a long time. And when the time comes to change, you can easily do it yourself in a couple of hours.
Watch the video - How to make a knife with a stacked handle for a more accurate understanding of the process.

As you can see, the manufacture of typesetting handles for knives is a fairly simple procedure. Anyone can make himself just such a knife handle that he likes.

The knife handle horn has been used since ancient times.

Today we will talk about how to make a pen for homemade knife from a horn.

Since the horn is needed not for the extraction of pantocrine, but as an ornamental material, the old horns lying around the garages are quite suitable - the legacy of the USSR. In those days, horns hung in almost every apartment.

So, we cut the horn into blanks and proceed to the manufacture of a homemade horn handle for a knife.

The first step is to mark the future knife handle on the workpiece.

So, let's start making the handle

Now, using a drill, we drill holes in the edges of the future groove.

Using a jigsaw, cut out the inside.

The horn is a very good ornamental material and it is perfectly processed with a hand tool.

We try on the workpiece on a homemade knife.

Now you need to process the outer part of the knife handle blank.
This is easy to do with a file.

We try on the blank of the knife handle.
It remains only to repeat the above steps for the remaining blanks and the knife handle is ready.

In this case, the typesetting handle of a knife made of horn is attached to the knife with glue, for this purpose a notch is made on the insert. Notching can easily be done with a grinder or Dremel cutting discs.

Today we’ll talk about how to make a knife handle with your own hands.

A homemade handle may be required not only for those who decide to make a knife with their own hands, but also simply in case the knife handle is out of order.

The overhead handle is very easy to manufacture. It is enough to grind wood or plastic blanks and rivet them with copper or aluminum wire to the blank of the handle of a homemade knife. In this case, epoxy glue can also be used to increase the strength of the fastening of the handle linings.

Watch the video tutorial How to make a knife handle with your own hands.

You see - nothing complicated! If you do not take into account the time required for the varnish to harden, then the knife handle can be made with your own hands in almost one evening.
However, there are nuances here too.

Before applying epoxy glue, the knife blank must be treated with a large sandpaper or filed with a file to better hold the glue layer.
The blanks of the knife and the handle in the places where the glue is applied must be degreased with acetone.

In handle blanks, the outer part of the rivet hole must be expanded with a thicker drill, then when riveting, the wire will fill these cones and the handle will hold much better.

The biggest advantage homemade pen on the knife is the ability to adjust the handle to fit your hand. Manufacturers make "for the average person", and your palm may be larger or smaller than the standard.

In addition, you can make an "anatomical" knife handle, when each finger has its own ledge.

The wooden handle can not be varnished, but soaked in oil heated to 60 degrees and allowed to lie down for a day in direct sunlight. This action must be carried out 4-5 times. The oil will saturate the wood and polymerize under ultraviolet light.

The handle of a knife treated in this way is not afraid of dents and scratches, it is also not subject to rotting from moisture. After all, the whole tree is impregnated with polymerized oil!

It will be even easier to make a knife handle that will be incredibly aesthetic in appearance - as well as durable - from bone or from the horns of various animals. Most often, elk or deer horns are used for such crafts, and if you manage to get saiga antlers, you can consider yourself lucky, because such material already has beautiful irregularities and is slightly curved.

Those who wish to make a knife handle from just such a "raw material" should first remove the core from the latter, then boil it for a couple of hours. After that, the horn must be filed from the side of the back and sides of the future handle - to remove irregularities. You can fix the knife blade in it with the help of wooden and metal plates.

One of the easiest (even for beginner craftsmen) ways to make a knife handle is the typesetting method. "Zon" handles assembled in this way were once popular - usually from pieces of colored plexiglass or plastic. When creating products from such materials, it should be borne in mind that they are inconvenient to use due to their slipperiness.

It is better to make a knife handle in this way from birch bark or very thin wood of different shades.

This material, to make a handle for a knife, is cut into pieces right size, in each of them a hole is made for the blade rod - and everything is strung on the latter interspersed with metal plates, and after that it is well turned.

To make a knife handle aesthetic in appearance, it is not necessary to create such a product from scratch. It is possible to decorate an existing handle - for example, wrap it with a piece of leather suitable sizes or strong colored thread or very thin twine.

It will be great if you can make a knife handle out of wood or bone with carvings or more complex patterns made using the popular pyrography technique. In modern conditions, its use will require a special device - a pyrograph, with which the material of the handle is given the desired shape.

Making a knife with your own hands at home

There are many different types of knives on the cold steel market, but there are still people who want to make their own knife at home. And rightly so, because it will be exclusively their product, original and not like others.

This article will help a beginner to understand the knife making business in the absence of special conditions and tell you how to choose the right materials for making knives and in in general terms will tell you what to do with them, so do not judge strictly 🙂

To make a knife at home from start to finish, you will need:

Blade or material for its manufacture;
- materials for the handle;
- additional parts for the manufacture of pommel, guard, bolster - or ready-made from the store;
- fasteners (depending on the manufacturing strategy - epoxy, screws, etc.)

Blade for making a knife

To begin with, consider the question of what needs to be done with the blade. Firstly, making it yourself at home will be extremely problematic - if you do not have the opportunity to forge the blade yourself, so the best solution would be to buy a ready-made one, for example, a Lauri 125 blade made of carbon steel.

Where to buy a blade for making a knife?

There are quite a few sources selling a blade prepared for home-made knives: you can buy them both from private craftsmen at the same guns.ru or at cold steel exhibitions, buy blades in other online stores; or you can order an industrial blade from the manufacturer, including on Chinese auction sites, such as ebay or aliexpress.

There are very high-quality and inexpensive catalogs of blades from Finnish (and indeed Scandinavian) manufacturers, I can recommend them.
If you really have difficulty finding a suitable blade, just take a sheet of metal, for example, a sawn off piece of a spring, give it a shape and work with it.

Of course, the purchased blade should be finalized. To do this, you need to take a file or even a circle and coarse water stones (if your product is very “raw” and you still need to remove the descents) and hone the blade to desired type and shapes, and then use sandpaper to grind out all the bumps.

The easiest way to check the quality of the product is to wipe the finished blade and breathe on it. From a quality blade, perspiration will come off without any irregularities, and it will lie without breaks. At the same time, it is better to conduct such an experiment several times and from different angles.

What steel to make a knife from - questions for other articles, you can read the materials on our website, for example, an article.

DIY knife handle

Next, we will deal with the future handle of your knife. It is best and easiest to take a tree for her, since in the future the wooden handle of a self-made knife will look nice, and the hand will not freeze from it. Absolutely any type of tree is suitable - especially since you are just learning.

The simplest do-it-yourself knife handle is made from old legs of Soviet tables, chairs, sofas or armchairs, because furniture used to be made famously. Using a hacksaw, we saw off a piece of the desired length, then roughly cut out the shape of the handle that we would like to see on the finished product. It is also necessary to make a recess in the handle for the shank of your blade - for example, drill and process with needle files. Through or not through this hole - depends on the finished design of the knife.

Ideally, you would also need to draw an approximate drawing of a knife that is made at home. You already have a blade for this and the approximate dimensions and outlines of the handle. And according to the drawn layout, it will already be easier to make a finished knife, bringing it to perfection with sandpaper after assembly.

If you already more or less know how to make a knife with your own hands, you can buy bars of stabilized wood (you will get very beautiful and strong handles), or try to make a handle from typesetting birch bark or pressed leather; you can make a braided handle - there are a lot of options. Go to the next level of "knife building", so to speak 🙂

Important details for making a knife at home

Garda - a part specially designed to protect the hand of the owner of the knife. You can make it from metal or wood, or buy it ready-made in specialized stores. You can make a knife without a guard or a combat stop at all - such a knife is not a melee weapon.
Bolster - serves both to decorate the knife and to rid the handle of excessive load. It can be made from wood or metal - for example, make a bolster from a coin or a soldering iron tip.
The pommel is opposite to the blade, performs such functions as: changing the balance of the finished knife, aesthetic function (for beauty). Also, the pommel often plays the role of a nut that is screwed onto the shank (if you have a through one). The pommel of the knife handle is made from various materials - but it is better to stick to a single style.

Knife assembly

Having considered all the details of the future knife, putting everything together, preparing and processing the constituent ingredients of this “recipe” a little, you can turn directly to the knife assembly itself. To do this, you will need a few more simple things: sandpaper for finishing the handle and polishing the finished product, two types of binary glue (epoxy and “cold welding”), a hammer or mallet, paper tape (to seal - to protect the blade and other polished metal from scratches parts of the assembled knife when processing the handle with sandpaper and giving the finished shape to the homemade knife).

First you need to dilute the epoxy and coat the leather gasket with it, which we then apply to that part of the blade that will be inside the tree - the shank. Next is cut cold welding”and is quickly placed on the bottom of the hole drilled in the handle for the tail of the blade, where it is, in fact, embedded.

Gently driving the blade inward with a hammer or mallet will give the knife its final look. For a while, it would be ideal to clamp the assembled knife with a clamp while the epoxy hardens. In the end, a knife made with your own hands at home will only have to be sanded and decorated at your discretion.

as more simple option it is possible to make an overhead handle - from two plates (wooden, for example), which are attached to the blade shank on the right and left. Such a handle is usually fastened with screws, in addition to epoxy, but usually looks simpler.

When you give the ideal shape to the handle and make sure that your homemade knife is assembled reliably, you can start manufacturing 🙂

Knife handle not less than important element than the blade itself, since the convenience and safety of use depends on how the knife lies in the hand. The handle also has decorative functions, especially if the knife is a souvenir. Among some northern peoples, the hilt is valued even more than the blade itself. It is made of non-hard steel, which can be sharpened on any stone. And when the blade is worn down, the blade part is thrown away, and a new blade is inserted into the familiar and comfortable handle. Consider some of the materials used in the manufacture of knife handles.

The simplest handle can be formed by wrapping a cord around the tail of the knife. Such a handle can often be seen on throwing or tactical knives.

Many knife makers use traditional materials such as wood, horn or bone for their handles. The tree is used both in mass production and in the manufacture of piece copies by knife craftsmen. V different regions use various breeds the woods that are most accessible are well processed, or have a beautiful texture.

For example, for the manufacture of handles, walnut, maple, oak, apple, pear, ash, cherry are used. Although, at present, blanks are available from various exotic varieties of wood that grow in tropical countries. True, many rare wood species are more difficult to process because they have high hardness.

Author's knives with wooden handles are often decorated with carvings or inlaid with various inserts. Brass, silver or gold wire is used for notching. It is rolled into strips, and then driven into grooves, which are made in the form of an ornament, so soft dense wood, such as walnut, is suitable for this purpose. For carving, wood of dense species is well suited - maple, dogwood, apple tree, boxwood, juniper, pear. From tropical species, lemon, red or rosewood is used for these purposes.

V middle lane In Russia, birch bark is often used for handles. Type-setting handles are made from it, that is, birch bark plates are mounted on the knife shank, pressed and processed. Sometimes, on the contrary, they first prepare blanks from pressed birch bark, then fix them on the shank, and process them.

After processing the birch bark, the handle has a beautiful and slightly corrugated surface. One of the advantages of a birch bark handle is that it turns out to be completely natural, since it is made without the use of impregnations and varnishes. The birch bark handle does not slip, even if wet or stained with scales or blood. It is warm and pleasant to the touch.

From natural materials, for the manufacture of handles, horns of wild animals are also used. Basically, the horn is used in hunting knives, or souvenir options. From the horn of a red deer, the most beautiful handles are obtained. The material is quite durable and at the same time it is well processed. Moose horn also works well, but it is heavier and turns gray after polishing. American white-tailed deer and reindeer antlers are used less frequently due to their more porous structure.

You can often see Nepalese kukri knives in knife catalogs. Some knives have buffalo horn handles.

Synthetic materials are widely used in the manufacture of knives. Previously, plexiglass, plastic, textolite were often used. There are a lot of modern synthetic materials used in knife making, such as Fiberglass, G-10, Delrin, Grivory, Zytel, Kraton, Carbon, Mikarta, Lexan, Nylon, Ellastron and some others.

In the descriptions of the characteristics of imported knives, you can often see the Zytel material. This material is made on the basis of nylon, but is characterized by greater rigidity and better wear resistance. These qualities of the material depend on the type and quantity of resins added. The material is difficult to scratch, it has high impact strength and heat resistance. Zytel handles are usually ribbed for better grip.

Another material from which the handles are made is Grivory. This is a modern fiberglass, very resistant to thermal, as well as ultraviolet exposure. Grivory material is more technologically advanced and even stronger than Zytel.

Currently, micarta is widely used in the manufacture of knives. It is moisture resistant, durable and has a good appearance. The material is well processed. Micarta is a material consisting of a mixture of resins with which various electrical insulating materials are glued together. As layers for gluing, are used different kinds paper and fabrics. The texture and color of the material depends on the structure and color of the components, as well as the resins used to glue the filler. Therefore, by changing the color of the components, a very interesting texture and color composition of micarta is obtained. Sometimes micarta mimics some natural materials, such as wood.

There are other synthetics that imitate natural materials, such as Elforin. It serves as a substitute for ivory. The material is well cut, processed and polished, moreover, it is resistant to acids and oils, and even more so to ordinary moisture.

Another frequently used material is Kraton. It is also used as self material for knife handles, and as an insert into a handle made of another material. Kraton is synthetic substitute rubber, that is andh oprene rubber. The material is more wear resistant than rubber. The kraton handle does not slip in the hand, besides, the surface of the handle is usually made corrugated, so it sits firmly in the palm of your hand.

G-10 is also a popular material for knife handles. . This is fiberglass, which is made on the basis of fiberglass and epoxy binders. G-10 non-combustible moisture resistant material with dielectric properties. As a result of the addition of dyes, it is possible to obtain products various colors. Among the disadvantages of the G-10 material, one can note the deterioration of strength characteristics at low temperatures.

Many manufacturers, especially Russian ones, make knives with elastron handles. Elastron G rubber has the strength of vulcanized rubber, and it remains flexible over a wide temperature range from -65°C to +150°C.

Write, Anya: faith is the reason for desire.

Forgive? Certainly! Endlessly.

Trumpet, restrain yourself.

Whoever saves the country does not break the horse.

On you do not roll out, but poke.

Auto-da-fe knowledge: fire from anger.

Popularity and the mummy lack of prudence.

Vova: injustice is a cry of blood.

In any case, indignant - you will become a slave.

We, brethren, are seized by our shortcomings.

Look what's in the shade.

Look into the face: you will see both the letters and the thought.

Pain did not know from morality.

Those who have morals are right.

Penetrate with decency truly to customs.

Nature, it is said, is not raped with impunity.

Evil transformation? Calm environment.

Without reacting, slowly perceive the external.

Compassionate became men of steel.

Will come, as of old, ethics steel.

Reality? only individuality.

The picture of the past is clear at the moment of transition from sleep.

Where to begin? Printing is based on numbers.

Knowledge curls around - worthy are transferred.

God forgives women, purifies them with regulations.

The husband says goodbye, is cleansed by creativity.

Eight, look: the point of death is inside.

Check: deuce-duality, to death.

7, 9, 12 - the identity of divine numbers.

A person does not fade: a whip is a one for him and zero is a carrot.

Clearly, intelligence exceeds morality.

The communal haystack is a pledge of survival.

Foreigner? Retired, for example.

The old man who is not used to the new.

Our grandson is a potentiator of many sciences.

To be lucky - get down to business fun.

Do not tremble, show your eyes for understanding.

The arrival of the ruler, if a squad is formed.

Nomenclature in hand, if bloody bail.

And in the horde there is a conflict of forces and reason in the struggle.

According to the law, an official, outside the law, the culprit.

Faith reveals, reason guides.

Believe: happiness is a reward and life's goal.

Evil creates itself and conquers.

Without giving a look, listen to resentment,

The father-in-law is happy with what he has.

Grievances do not torment - losers are taught.

How do you feel about yourself now everyone thinks about you.

Enter the lesson of love.

Attention: impact on the hour by character, thoughts and desires.

Once in a hundred we return, if depravity.

Life is a wound if we do not understand the plan.

Do not escape from the paws, since the katsap grabbed.

Evil spirit? It's a program of destruction, friend.

Man and modern, savior of the universe!

In all the reason is the solar energy of a man.

Ode to the laws of the family.

Justice - mafia writing fornication.

Like the Incas, settle the dispute in duels.

The wife, it happens, absorbs with her heart.

Not happy? He created his own hell.

You need to know: we are the creators of our own hell.

The fate of the shell from thoughts and deeds.

Calm the mind and pain with the will.

The man that is in him is the connection of the spirit with the substance.

Man is the daughter of good and evil.

And just for those who like to visit the site in search of interesting and useful things. Sometimes it happens that not always what the manufacturer offers us can be suitable for everyday use, so you often have to turn on your imagination and make everything yourself, and by doing it yourself, you will be confident in your manufacture. This article also has the meaning of reworking the finished one, so we smoothly proceed to the assembly.

As usual in any homemade product, material is required and what we want to change, in this case it will be a knife. In order to assemble the knife handle, the author explains that necessary, it:
*Birch bark.
*Knife without handle.
* Clamping vise on hairpins with lambs.
* Bulgarian with a grinding wheel of medium grain.
*Glue.

When all the assembly materials are ready, you can start assembling.
First of all, the author took pieces of wood 5-6 mm thick on both sides and machined holes in them that fit into the steel handle of the knife.

After that, according to the size of these pieces of wood, it is necessary to cut out a sufficient number of squares of birch bark and roughly measure whether they are enough for the length of the handle.

When the required amount is cut out, we move on to the next step.
We make a hole in each square of birch bark, what you decide to do, for a better hole, you can use a wood drill, which is slightly larger in diameter than the bushing on the knife. We repeat this process with all the other elements of our future pen.

When all the birch bark is planted on the handles, we lightly press them against each other, and then soak them between each glue and hold for a couple of tens of minutes.

When the glue is slightly seized, you can, armed with a vise on studs, press the entire structure, after removing it from the knife.

For further processing, it is necessary to allow the glue to dry completely and when you are already sure that the glue has dried, proceed to grinding and shaping. To make grinding more convenient, you need to put our pressed birch bark back on the knife handle and equip the grinder with a grinding wheel to start processing.

Attention! All work with the grinder must be carried out with extreme caution and observe safety measures. To begin with, with the help of a grinder, we give a square shape to the handle.

Then we grind it to an oval, comfortable for landing in the hand.

Ultimately, the author gives a shiny look to the handle with the help of polishing.

This homemade knife handle is ready, you can repeat it without special efforts, as well as its manufacture does not require high skills. Thank you all for reading this article, and special thanks to the author inw.

Wood is not only versatile and popular construction material. In everyday life, wooden items are used everywhere and all the time, especially since wood is a very easy-to-work material. Do-it-yourself wooden handle for a knife is not at all such a difficult task as it seems at first glance.

Handle types

A wooden handle for a folding or regular kitchen model should be comfortable first of all. Actually, this is the attractiveness of making it yourself: you can make a handle of any configuration, any size suitable for your hand and soak it with any composition.

In self-manufacturing, 2 types of wooden handles are most often used:

• mounted - a cavity is formed at the end of the product, into which a blade with a narrow shank is fixed. The handle at the same time is a single unit and is very resistant to damage. A folding knife cannot be made this way;
• invoice - suitable for blades with a wide shank. In this case, the handle consists of two parts that are superimposed on the blade. The handle is heavier, which allows you to balance the wide blade. For a kitchen knife, for example, this is important. A folding model is always an invoice type. The photo shows a set for a folding version.

Materials and tools

To make a kitchen knife with a wooden handle, you need to select the right wood, process, impregnate, embed parts and fix in the chosen way. This will require such materials.

• Wood - as a rule, wood with an original texture and pattern is chosen so that the product is attractive, as in the picture. With this preference is given to hard and durable species - oak, walnut, maple. It is more difficult to cut a handle from such wood, but the result will last a long time. In any case, the wood must be selected dry - no more than 12-15% moisture, and must be treated with antiseptics.
• The blade itself is purchased ready-made. For manufacturing, you need to know exactly the dimensions of the shank and the weight of the blade.
• Fasteners - for kitchen knives with a push-in handle, epoxy resin is used. To attach the attached handle, you needed a brass or copper bar of the desired diameter.
• Impregnation - the product must be impregnated with a suitable composition. Most often, linseed oil or a special dish varnish is used. It is necessary to impregnate the handle not only in order to give it a beautiful shine: the composition protects the wood from moisture. How to impregnate the wooden handle of a knife depends on the type of product.
• Tool - as a rule, a set is quite ordinary: cutters, planer, hacksaw. However, to speed up the process, you can resort to electric models.

How to make a handle

To make a pen, you need some experience with wood.

At the same time, this work is quite suitable for a beginner to practice.

1. The tree must be impregnated with an antiseptic before work.
2. With a hacksaw or electric jigsaw, a workpiece of a suitable shape is cut out of wood. If this is the first test, it is better to do without recesses for the fingers, but if you already have experience, you can choose the most optimal configuration. At the first stage, the workpiece has only an approximate shape, then its shape is brought to perfection with a cutter and a hacksaw. How to process the wooden handle of a knife depends on the skill and desire of the master.
3. The finished workpiece is treated with sandpaper to perfect smoothness.
4. At the end of the product, a groove for the blade is drilled. The depth depends on the weight of the blade. The shank should easily sit on the handle. In the photo - the formation of the groove.
5. Then the product is processed, for example, linseed oil. Pour oil into a small saucepan, put on water bath, and the workpiece is immersed in the impregnation and held until air bubbles cease to appear.
6. The wooden handle is left to dry.
7. Prepare epoxy - according to the instructions. It is mixed with sawdust, and the cavity of the handle is filled with resin.
8. The blade is inserted into the cavity, following right position and leave to dry overnight. In order not to stain the product, and the epoxy resin is rubbed off with great difficulty, the blade is wrapped with tape, as in the picture.

The overhead model for a folding knife is made a little differently. Here, the tool kit will include rivets and a vise.

1. The rough workpiece is held in a vise and cut into 2 parts. Then both parts are brought to perfection using cutters and sandpaper.
2. Assemble the product: the blade is placed between the parts of the handle. Mark the attachment points and drill holes through the workpiece. In this way, a perfect match of the holes is achieved.
3. Then, a rivet is made from a rod with a diameter that matches the diameter of the hole.
4. The blanks are treated with oil according to the technology described above.
5. Epoxy resin is applied to inside parts, shank and rivets. Collect the product and tightly wrap it with tape.
6. In a day, the handle should be ready. If necessary, it is cleaned of excess epoxy.

In the video, the manufacture of the handle with your own hands is covered in more detail.

Handmade leather handle for a knife. Handcrafted leather handle. Handmade leather knife handle. Leather knife handle. From what you can make a handle for a knife with your own hands. Blade Lauri LA95H and "dancing with a tambourine" Author vlad79ka. High-quality leather should be dense, each piece should be impregnated with glue and strongly compressed. Get a fairly heavy handle. The blade is only 95-20-3, here for the heavy knife with blade 120-130mm leather is probably more suitable. Only such a reason is seen.

Composite leather handle. And so is the collar leather. We cut the skin into squares and punch (drill) a hole in the center.

Dilute gelatin according to the instructions on the package (it can be stronger) and soak.

We press (do not forget to center on the holes).

After drying, we have such two blocks.

We estimate the length of the handle, add more layers (also topping with gelatin), put it on the tail and tighten it with a clamp.

After drying, we get this blank.

Since we have a butt plate with a stem, we drill a hole for it

We glue the fiber on the back (I forgot to mention the fiber is also glued to the bolster)

We squeeze the butt into place and rivet the shank. Strongly you can not squeeze out with riveting, since this phenomenon is temporary - the skin will shrink a lot and it will be cut off and done again.

Here's what we get

With a knife, we give a rough outline of the future handle and send it all to a battery or other warm place.

After drying with the help of sandpaper (this is in my case) or LShM-adapters, we shape the barrel. Before that, we upset the entire block and cut off the temporary cleavage.

The leather shrinks quite a bit and the handle block needs regular compaction (upsetting)

That's what we have at this stage. The knife is sent to the battery.

We impregnate our set with oil. And send it to dry (I lived in a battery for about a week).

We take out, upset and grind (because the layers after pressing with a hammer give a "wave")

We cut the grooves

Riveting (final) and polishing from 600 to 2500 grit.

We remove the chamfer on the bolster.

Bormashining and chamfering on the back.

We dilute the shellac in a thinner way and apply it to the handle. After drying, we grind with 2500 sandpaper, removing smudges and go through with a rag.