Advise on how to properly make a type-setting leather handle? I don’t want to make a handle out of wood, but I’m afraid I can’t pick up the proper plastic.

I'm going to cut the washers to size, glue them together with epoxy, drill them - and then mount large fragments directly on the shank. Actually, what is the question - how to process the mounted handle? Won't the leather get torn apart by a file?

You can process it on a grinding wheel ... then with a sandpaper on a rubber disk ... From a file, it all depends on the "old age" of the skin, if it is old enough and not very dense, then it can become disheveled, dense "new" skin is quite resistant to such loads and processing options ... but it's better to use something higher-speed, the processing quality will still be better.

Making a typesetting handle from birch bark for a knife with a blade Kankaanpaa Saami

Knife with blade Kankaanpaa Saami with birch bark handle
	Source materials - Kankaanpaa Saami blade, elk horn of suitable diameter, birch bark.
First, the bolster and the butt plate of the handle are made from elk logs. Round pieces with a diameter of 2-3 cm and a thickness of about 1 cm are sawn off from the horn. Holes are drilled in both rounds and adjusted with a needle file to fit the bolster and shank.
	Before processing, the blade is protected with masking tape to protect it from scratches and sticking of epoxy. In addition, when working with birch bark, both the blade and its tang will be in a humid environment, which in the case of a carbon steel blade can affect it. appearance.
So, the shank is cut to the required length, grooves are applied to it for better retention on the handle. Also ready for further work bolster (bottom right) and butt plate (bottom left).
	The free space between the butt plate and the bolster will be filled with a birch bark insert. This distance must be measured to calculate the required number of birch bark spacers.
Now we proceed to the actual manufacture of the birch bark handle. At the first step, the birch bark is cleared of the white layer with front side and a cork layer from the inside. For this procedure, you can use a metal brush or a sharp knife to scrape off unnecessary layers.
	The birch bark is cut into spacer squares in the required quantity. In this case, the required spacer length was 8 cm with a birch bark thickness of about 2 mm. Total required 80mm: 2mm = 40 squares. Plus 2-3 more pieces in reserve - in case of shrinkage of the birch bark package.
Subsequently, the birch bark was dipped into a bath of water for 10-20 seconds to give elasticity, and holes for the shank were punched in the supplies using a semicircular wood cutter and a sharp knife.
	At the end of the process, the package of spacers is assembled on the shank (with bolster and butt plate) and compressed using a simple device (see photo). In this handle, the birch bark spacers were "glued" solely due to moisture, although the design allows the use of various adhesives (for example, waterproof PVA).
After a couple of hours of drying on the shank, the package is carefully removed from the future knife and is already separately clamped between parallel and smooth surfaces. It is important not to violate the integrity of the package and the alignment of the holes in the spacers when removing the pressed birch bark from the shank. Periodically it is necessary to tighten the nuts of the pressing device to compensate for shrinkage. After complete drying, the package is re-tried on the shank and, if necessary, new birch bark spacers are added (be sure to moisten them before adding them to the package).
	After drying, the bag is put on the shank together with the bolster and all parts are fixed on the shank with epoxy resin. The structure is again put under pressure, this time until the epoxy polymerizes completely. After that, the handles are roughly contoured with a regular knife. At this stage, the use of a skin or a file is impractical; it is easier to work with a knife on soft birch bark.
At the final stage, the handle is treated with sandpaper and (if desired) the blade is etched in Sprite (this is not an advertisement !!!). Before etching, the scale is removed from the blade fine sandpaper and the blade itself is degreased with acetone. After spending a night in an acidic environment, a beautiful gray coating is guaranteed. Important: you must get rid of the gas bubbles in the drink, otherwise you can get a stained coating where the bubbles settle. You can shake the bottle for a long time, or you can just heat the drink to wait for the bubbles to come out. ● Solders. The choice of solder is made depending on the metals or alloys to be joined, on the soldering method, temperature restrictions, the size of the parts, the required mechanical strength and corrosion resistance, etc. Most widely ... ● Organic glass - thermoplastic plastic - a widespread and available material. It is produced transparent or dyed in mass, it is well processed, glued, painted. Organic glass is polished by hand with a clean and dry cloth ...

When hunting, a knife is needed in order to chop branches for installation, cut bread for dinner, and, if you're lucky, butcher the hunted animal. Here, perhaps, and all its functions. The main thing that hunting knife was comfortable, lay well in the hand, and the shape of the handle did not tire the owner during operation. How good a hunting knife is, you can only find out in practice.

Any knife, including a hunting one, includes a blade and a handle. In principle, it is possible to make a hunting knife completely on your own, which would fully satisfy your needs. But it hardly makes sense to do this, since for the manufacture of a blade it can be quite difficult to find steel of suitable quality, not to mention it at home.

In addition, there is a quite satisfactory range of quality blades on sale. But here is the hilt, being the same important detail a knife, like a blade, often does not at all meet the requirements placed on it by both a hunter-fisherman and an amateur hunter. But it is quite possible to replace the handle of a knife with a high-quality and suitable blade at home.

Making a one-piece handle for a hunting knife.

Artistic handles - with cutouts for fingers, a bend in the tail section and a guard - are more of interest to weapon collectors. It is better for a hunter to have a straight handle, without frills and decor. The dimensions of the knife handle should be such that the knife sits firmly and confidently in the hand. The handle should be 3-3.5 cm longer than the width of the palm.

With the right grip, the ends of the middle, ring and little fingers should not touch the base of the thumb, and the ends of the index and thumb, on the contrary, should slightly overlap each other. But the final decision is made solely taking into account the individual preferences of each hunter.

The handle can be made from any piece of wood, but it is best to take a blank from. Moreover, from certain places of the trunk. First of all, this is an outgrowth at the butt, called a kapokorn, or a brush. It is permeated with dormant buds, so a ringed pattern appears on the cross section, like that of the Karelian birch.

Secondly, a simple burl, a curly outgrowth on the trunk. There are almost never sleeping buds in it, but the structure is beautiful, iridescent. Thirdly, inner part trunk, where a large bough departs from the very core. The wood from these places is also good because the layers there are very small, and it is dense.

Before processing, the workpiece must be thoroughly dried in the shade. When it is rough cut and hewn, it can be connected to the blade. The blade should have a continuation in the form of a shank longer than the future handle, and the end of the shank should have a thread for the mounting nut. Firstly, it will be possible to change the handle and, secondly, to avoid transverse rivets, which are difficult to install and do not always hold well, and they do not add beauty.

Before processing, the workpiece of the knife handle can be boiled in water and then allowed to dry thoroughly. Its color will change (it will become darker), and it will be easier to process. It is better to finish the finish not with varnishing (varnishing slides in the hand), but by boiling the workpiece in linseed oil.

In a metal vessel, for example, in a large tin can or other utensils, it is necessary to pour enough linseed oil so that the workpiece floats freely in it. The jar must be heated in a sand bath. The oil should barely boil. At this time, air bubbles will intensively come out of the ends of the workpiece. This boiling oil fills the pores of the wood. The procedure should last two or three hours, or even more.

After drying the handle for two to three weeks, you can put it on the knife and, if necessary, process it additionally. It is much easier to do this after boiling wood in linseed oil, its structure is revealed, and it itself acquires a deep color and becomes, as it were, harder and heavier.

Mounting the handle blank on the blade shank of a hunting knife.

To put the blank of the future handle on the blade shank, it must be drilled through. The drill should be longer than the future handle. This does not require any high-precision machines. The drill is fixed in the chuck of the electric drill, and the drill itself is pressed with a clamp to the workbench or in a horizontal position.

The workpiece must be carefully pushed onto a rotating drill. You will have to drill at least two holes at a slight angle to each other; then the undrilled must be selected with a long thin chisel. At the front end, instead of a guard, you can put a metal plate and a leather (2-3 mm) gasket. Having put the handle blank on the shank and firmly fastened it with a nut, you should bring it to the desired shape with rasps, coarse, fine and polishing skins.

Type-setting can be made of birch bark or birch bark with layers of leather. Birch bark 2-3 mm thick is boiled in water for a couple of hours to become soft, and then thoroughly dried. Then the sheet is cut into rectangles about 3 × 5 cm in size. A hole is cut in the center of each with a sharp knife or chisel, corresponding to the section of the place of the shank where this rectangle will fit.

So you will not have to cut holes in advance, but only before putting a piece on the shank. The knife should be clamped in a vice vertically with the shank up. In order not to spoil the blade, a piece of thick plywood must be inserted between it and the vise jaws. First, put a metal plate on the shank. Then you can dial the handle, carefully pressing each next piece to the previous one.

We must not forget that the layers in adjacent plates must be perpendicular. You can coat them with waterproof quick-drying glue. The last piece of birch bark must be pressed with a nut through a metal plate of the appropriate shape. The threaded part of the shank should be quite long. The fact is that by screwing the nut, you compress the entire set on the handle, and it shortens a little.

As a result, it may be necessary to unscrew the nut several times, put additional pieces of birch bark and tighten it again. When the nut is screwed completely, you can proceed to the finish. Cut off the excess birch bark with a very sharp and fine file. For such a handle you do not need any varnishes, oils and other finishing materials, it is enough to clean it with a fine sandpaper.

Based on the materials of the book “Fishing tackle and hunting equipment with your own hands. Manufacturing and repair.
Storozhev Konstantin.

Making handles for knives.
Blades of knives are suitable for both old and (better) new ones. I repeat, the manufacture of new knives is preferable, since the part of the blade reserved for the handle is easy to “program” for the design of the latter. And when “modernizing” an old knife, you have to adapt a new handle instead of the old one, which is not always convenient. On fig. 25 shows three steps involved in creating a handle from overlay plates. It is clear that at first they make a knife blade with a rectangular end under the handle. In this case, it makes sense to decorate the handle with a ferrule, for which it is best to try to pick up a stainless steel tube, preferably with thin walls. It is easy to give the ring the shape of an oval, rectangle, circle, polyhedron. At worst, silver and gold are suitable wedding rings if the love ended and the marriage broke up. Don't waste good! 🙂
After polishing, the ring is put on the end of the canvas, intended, of course, for the handle. Two inner overlay plates are cut out with an allowance for the ring and for processing. The upper ends of both plates are adjusted so that they fit snugly into the ring, protruding beyond its limits by 2 ... 3 mm. Next, the resulting assembly is clamped in a vice and three holes for rivets are drilled in it, countersinking the edges of the holes for countersunk rivets. After installing the rivets, their protruding parts are ground flush with the plates. In the same way, upper linings are made, for which plexiglass with a thick dark color is selected so that rivets do not show through these plates. The outer linings are glued to the inner ones and clamped with clamps or in a vice, leaving them like that for two days. After assembling the handle, gaps may remain in it, for example, from the sides, which is observed if the dimensions of the part of the web for the handle are smaller than the dimensions of the handle itself (this usually happens). To seal these cracks, plexiglass plates are selected (their thickness is equal to the thickness of the canvas) and glued into these cracks. On the outer plate of the handle, its outline is drawn in its final form (Fig. 25, b), after which everything superfluous is removed from the assembly-gluing along the contour with an emery wheel, hacksaw, file, after which the handle is ground and polished. On fig. 25c shows the finished handle.
At the flea market there are often kitchen homemade knives with handles (made of plastics), shimmering with all the colors of the rainbow. This play of color is achieved with the help of ... candy wrappers. Such a wrapper is first crumpled to get a lot of folds with microfacets that send light spots in all directions. Then the wrapper is smoothed out (not until the kinks disappear completely) and inserted between the blade and transparent - plexiglass overlays (Fig. 26), after which the overlays are connected to the knife blade with rivets. In order for the color overflows to be iridescent, steel wrappers with color drawings are selected. Pens made of a single-color “silver” (or “golden”) frame also look quite impressive.

Type-setting pens, made up of multi-colored pieces of plexiglass plates, are interesting in their own way (Fig. 27). You can make such a handle at a knife with a shank (the part of the canvas on which the handle is attached) of any shape. But if the shank for a typesetting pen is short, and sometimes it is conceived as such, then a steel rod with a diameter of 4 ... 6 mm is welded or riveted to such a short shank. For more convenient fastening of the plates on the rod, a thread 10 ... 15 mm long is cut at the end of the latter. As typesetting plates, any trimmings of plexiglass are suitable, as long as they "pass" in size. In all plates, except for the last two, holes are drilled for the rod, and in those upper plates that fall on the shank, drills also develop holes for the shank with needle files or cutters. The penultimate two plates are threaded to screw them onto the rod. The plates are lubricated with glue, strung on the rod and clamped (compacted), screwing onto the rod with threaded plates. The lowest plate (it is without a hole) is glued after a week. Next, the handle is processed on an emery stone, polished with skins and fragments of ordinary window glass, polish.

In the manufacture of plates with holes, it must be borne in mind that in transparent plexiglass the walls drilled hole acquire milky color, which does not add beauty to the product, since after polishing the product, the walls of the hole begin to look through the transparent plexiglass. Therefore, it is desirable to iron the hole from the inside with a hot rod, as a result, the milky matte color of the walls will disappear and the hole will even turn into an element that decorates the handle. I also advise you to make the upper and lower typesetting plates from plexiglass with a thick or dull dark color in order to mask traces of connections (rivets, threads). By the way, typesetting pen made of transparent plexiglass, with its play of light, creates the illusion of a product made of precious minerals.
But for overhead handles (see Fig. 25), plexiglass with a dull color is preferable, creating smooth blurry transitions between the layers of plexiglass, which gives the handle the appearance of a product made of marble, granite, porcelain, horn.
A type-setting handle made up of plates arranged obliquely looks more elegant. Here, the handle is first formed by gluing the plates offset relative to each other, as shown in Fig. 28. The glued handle blank should be set aside for about a month, and only after this period should processing be started. First, we cut off the top of the workpiece along the “K-L” plane, perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the knife. Then a protrusion is made on the top of the workpiece - seat for the ring. Now it remains to strengthen the knife shank in the handle blank. If the shank is short enough, it is heated and pressed into the workpiece, for which an appropriate hole is usually formed in the latter. Or, having made a larger hole, insert a shank into it and fill the hole with epoxy.

If you formed the upper part of the handle from dull plexiglass plates, but no traces of the handle attachment will be visible through it, which will only benefit its appearance.
For a long shank, you will have to make a round or slotted hole in the handle. For the latter, a hole of the required depth is first drilled, and the appropriate shape is given to it with a red-hot rod or plate. Next, a ring is put on the ledge, the contour of the handle is drawn on the workpiece and all excess is removed on the emery. After grinding and polishing, pour into the slot epoxy resin, insert the shank, remove the protruding glue and leave the knife in a vertical position for 5 ... 6 hours (until the resin hardens).

You can buy materials for making knives

From administrator: Unfortunately, I have not been able to establish the authorship of this material. There is an assumption that this is a scan of some book from Soviet times.

How to make a hunting knife with your own hands? This question was asked by more than one man who is fond of hunting.

Every self-respecting hunter should have a hunting knife in his arsenal. In the process of hunting, there are many situations in which a knife is simply necessary: ​​from sharpening different kind pegs, before cutting the prey.

Nowadays, there is a great variety of shops for hunters and fishermen, where you can buy any kind of knives for money. However, mass-produced knives do not differ in durability and quality. A more expensive option is to order a hunting dagger from a well-known craftsman. In this case, you can get a fairly high-quality blade. But only homemade hunting knives can bring the greatest pride and satisfaction. After all, in the process you can adjust the knife according to your desire and taste. The production of hunting knives is a rather complicated process and requires thorough preparation.

Characteristic features of a hunting knife

In order to make a hunting knife, you need to figure out how it differs from other types.

So, in addition to performing ordinary cuts, it must cope with the following tasks:

• finish off a wounded beast;
• remove the skin;
• cut up the carcass.

Based on this, one can distinguish characteristics designs:

1. Straight butt, for a powerful blow when finishing. For finishing, a separate blade with a point located in the center is often used, it is also called a hunting dagger.
2. Blade length 100-150 mm.
3. Use of harder grades of steel.
4. Handle made of wood, birch bark or non-slip artificial materials, with a moderate relief. It should be convenient for cutting on yourself and away from you, as well as stabbing movements.
5. The absence of additional devices in the design.

So, how to make a hunting knife?

Steel selection

Before proceeding directly to forging, it is necessary to decide on the material from which the hunting knife will be made.

When choosing steel, they operate with five of its main properties:

• Hardness. The ability of steel to resist deformation. Hardness is measured using the Rockwell scale, which has a gradation from 20 to 67 HRC.
• Wear resistance. wear resistance of metal. Directly related to the hardness of the steel used.
• Strength. Preservation of the integrity of the blade during impacts and other damaging factors.
• Plastic. Absorption and dissipation of kinetic energy during impacts, cuts and bends.
• Red hardness. An indicator of the stability of steel when exposed to temperature. The temperature of forging and hardening of steel depends on this indicator. The most red resistant are hard steel grades (over 900 °C).

All properties are closely related. The predominance of one of the indicators leads to a decrease in the quality of the material as a whole. The severity of a particular property is caused by alloyed additives and elements present in the metal.

Depending on the presence of certain alloying elements, the steel receives the appropriate marking. For example, grade U9 - carbon 0.9%, grade X12MF - contains 1.2% molybdenum and vanadium.

Of the most suitable steels for the manufacture of a hunting blade, steel of two grades can be noted, which are most widely used:

• XB5- diamond, alloyed carbon steel With high rates hardness (up to 70 HRC) and excellent cutting properties. The metal contains chromium and tungsten, which add strength. But with prolonged contact with water and dampness, corrosion spots may appear, so a knife made of such steel requires careful maintenance.
• X12MB- stamped steel, tool, hardness up to 60 HRC. The composition includes: chromium - increases resistance to corrosion; molybdenum - makes steel more viscous; vanadium - increases heat resistance.

Recently, powder steel has become popular, for example, ELMAX (Sweden). The steel is quite wear-resistant and viscous, and also has anti-corrosion protection. Products from it keep sharpening for a long time.

Damascus steel - has exceptional hardness and elasticity, is not subject to corrosion. Damask steel has a pronounced pattern, which is attached to carbon steel. Blade from damask steel easily copes with mechanical and thermal loads. The best hunting knives are made from damask steel.

Damascus steel - is not inferior to damask steel in all respects, but requires protection from moisture and dampness. The Damascus blade has a unique pattern and perfectly holds sharpening, but it must always be wiped after use and periodically lubricated with special oil.

Blade forging

Tools

We have dealt with the material, now we should talk about necessary tools and actually forging.

For forging you will need:

• hammer up to 1 kg and hammer 4-6 kg;
• Kuznetsk tongs, you can use pliers with the insulation removed;
• wrench;
• vise;
• anvil or homemade anvil fixture;
• grinder;
• welding machine;
• grinder;
• a blacksmith's furnace or hearth, supplied with pressurization by means of bellows or a fan.

Before starting work, experienced craftsmen are advised to draw sketches of hunting knives that can be made if one or another material is available. After choosing a suitable sketch, forging begins.

Forging steps

The forging process consists of several main stages, it is necessary:

1. Ignite the furnace and heat the metal to certain temperature(depending on the steel used).
2. Design and forge the shank. Subsequently, the workpiece is held behind it.
3. Formation of the future nose of the knife. At this stage, the future form of a hunting knife is acquired.
4. Blade forging with minimal allowances. At this stage, the metal should be gradually forged without changing the thickness of the workpiece.

Handle making

Making handles for knives is a creative process based on their practical use. The handle should be strong, comfortable and practical. At the moment, there are plenty of materials from which you can make a knife handle with your own hands. You can create various combinations of materials and apply various manufacturing techniques, the main thing is that the knife handle with your own hands meets the individual requirements and characteristics of the owner.

Material selection

The most elegant, comfortable and most importantly - durable - are handles made of animal horns. Another advantage of this material is that it lends itself well to processing.

A handle made of wood or ebonite can be damaged if dropped. The metal handle is strong and reliable, but not practical due to freezing at low temperatures.

most suitable and available material for the manufacture of the handle is fiberglass impregnated with epoxy (epoxy resin) and laid in several layers. The material is light, durable and not affected by temperature. Textolite was also widely used. However, for the manufacture of a textolite handle, it is necessary to use a solid bar, because when gluing several pieces, the strength of the product is lost.

Step by step manufacturing

It should be noted that before making a knife as a whole, it is necessary to initially select the type of handle: invoice or type-setting, since the shank of the workpiece for the handle is formed at earlier stages.

The manufacture of a knife handle is divided into several stages:

1. Make a sketch. On paper, draw the outline of the blade and shank, apply a drawing of the future handle on top.
2. Measure the length and width of future overlays or "cheeks". If the handle is type-setting, determine the number and thickness of the constituent elements.
3. To make a bolster and a trailer from brass (aluminum).
4. If the handle is type-setting, drill holes for the shank in the composite elements. If the handle is consignment note, drill holes for metal wads in the shank, then alternately in both blanks for lining.
5. Put on and glue linings or typesetting tools with epoxy resin, tightly squeeze or wrap the handle blank from all sides, for a more reliable fixation of the handle on the shank.
6. Bringing the handle to readiness with a file or other grinding tool. (Produced after complete drying of the resin).
7. Handle peeling. Giving the handle a perfect smoothness and shape.

Scabbard making

Sheaths are an integral part of quality hunting knives. They are designed to keep the blade from external negative influences, and also allow you to keep a hunting dagger always at hand. A knife for everyday use should be equipped with a collapsible sheath for easy cleaning. Sheath for a hunting knife can be made of leather and wood. Everyone chooses how to make a sheath for a knife.

Wooden scabbard

Necessary:

1. Saw a suitable bar into two halves. If the handle is made of wood, then it is best to use a bar from the same type of wood.
2. Outline on each half the contour of the corresponding side of the blade.
3. According to the outline, make a recess in the two halves of the scabbard to the thickness of the blade. You should slowly adjust the recesses so that the sheath subsequently sits tightly.
4. Glue the halves strictly along the edges of the recesses. A moderate coat of epoxy should be applied to prevent entry into the blade cavity. If necessary, pre-sand the surfaces to be bonded for a tighter fit. You can also fasten the halves with decorative screws.
5. Give the final shape with a file or dremel, sand it.

Leather scabbard

You will need:

1. Make a layout out of paper and tape.
2. Transfer the pattern to the skin and cut it out, leaving a margin of about 7-10 mm along the seam.
3. Soak the skin in water at room temperature for 20-30 minutes.
4. Cut out the thin plastic liner.
5. Protect the blade with masking tape.
6. Wrap the knife in soaked, cut leather. Fix the necessary bends (you can use ordinary clothespins).
7. Make a pendant (trench) and form a hole on its loop. Cut a strip of leather and fold it in half, this will be the pendant.
8. After the skin has dried, glue the pendant and sew it to the scabbard.
9. Glue on the plastic insert.
10. Make an expansion wedge for the top of the scabbard.
11. Sew the scabbard, after making symmetrical holes.
12. Soak the sheath and insert the blade into it, then place under the press to give the final shape.
13. After drying, you can impregnate the leather with shoe wax or special impregnations.

Making a knife from a file

As you know, a good blade made of excellent steel can cost decent money. In such cases, the question arises, how to make a knife with your own hands from improvised materials? An old, unnecessary file will come to the rescue, from which you can make a hunting knife with your own hands.

Tools and materials

Making a hunting knife with your own hands from a file must begin with the selection source material, or simply "blanks". It is best if it is a Soviet file, since at that time they were made from very quality steel. The shape of the file should be flat rectangular, and preferably diamond-shaped, with a width of about 30-40 mm.

It is necessary to determine what the handle of the future knife will be made of, and prepare materials for it. In addition, you will also need:

• epoxy resin;
• brass or aluminum rivets;
• vise;
• sharpening machine;
• grinder;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• magnet (required for hardening);
• ferric chloride (for etching).

Step-by-step instruction

1. First of all, to make a knife with your own hands from a file, draw sketch future knife.
2. Annealing. We heat the workpiece to about 700 degrees. When you have to make a knife with your own hands at home, you can use a gas stove. To determine the heating, a large scale is used. table salt, pour on the heated area, when it begins to melt, which means that the heating is sufficient. After the metal has acquired an even color, it is necessary to keep it in this state for 4 hours. Then the metal should cool slowly.
3. Blade formation. We cut off everything superfluous with a grinder, we give shape to the future blade. Further, with the help of circles of different grain sizes, they form a descent on the knife with their own hands, a butt, a shank for attaching the handle.
4. We produce hardening and release of the product.
5. Grinding and polishing the knife to the finished state. We use sandpaper, gradually reducing its graininess, for polishing we use a felt wheel and Goi paste.
6. We attach the handle and bring it to the final state by grinding and sanding.
7. Etching. An important step that is necessary to prevent rust on the blade.

Accessories

Such devices most often include a trencher and a sharpener, as well as hidden holes in the back of the knife and pockets on the sheath.

trench coat

Special loop for attaching the scabbard to the belt. In the manufacture of a trench coat, they are used various materials: rope, cord, leather strip. Making a scabbard with your own hands allows you to make a trench coat from any material at hand.

The trench coat can be glued, sewn, attached with a screw with inside scabbard, the main thing is to make a loop with a margin for any width of the belt. The length must be selected individually.

winepress

A small, fine-grained block of stone used to sharpen a knife. The sharpener is attached to the scabbard and is necessary for prolonged use of the blade.

Pockets

Making a knife with your own hands and a sheath for it allows you to fully equip it to your taste. But it is worthwhile to carefully consider the need, and most importantly, the practicality of this or that pocket.

Some craftsmen in the manufacture of handles for knives leave a cavity in the back, in which you can also put small objects.

How to harden steel at home

In fact, steel hardening can be done not only in the forge. It is quite possible to build a small oven on fresh air or get by gas stove. It is only necessary to create conditions to retain the maximum amount of heat near the knife. To do this, use heat shields, or more simply, metal plates.

The metal must be heated until it acquires a uniform bright red color. At the edge of the blade, the metal is thinner, so it heats up more and can have almost White color. The magnet will help determine the optimal degree of heat. If the magnet has ceased to react to the metal, it must be cooled. It is necessary to cool sharply, we take it with tongs or pliers and dip it into a bucket of water, and some craftsmen advise dipping it into used engine oil.

After the hardening process, the metal remains "stressed" and there is a risk of crumbling. In order to prevent this, metal tempering is carried out. We place the knife in the oven, heated to a temperature of 200 degrees, and leave it for 2 hours, then turn off the oven and let the metal cool together with the oven.

Making a knife with your own hands is a rather laborious task. Even using ready-made drawings for the manufacture of knives and detailed instructions, on the way to success, you can ruin more than one blank, fill more than one callus, get more than one cut. But do not stop there, because everyone can make a blade with their own hands.

An independent manufacturing process gives rise to a special attitude towards your blade, makes you appreciate the work invested in it.

Video

See in the video how to make a hunting knife from a drill with your own hands.

Wood is an environmentally friendly, easily processed material with unique aesthetic qualities. It is used to make knife handles. If you look at the photo of the handle for a knife made by a master of his craft, you can see a real work of art.

depending on the purpose and design feature for the handle, either one type of wood or several is chosen, which makes the artistic value of the finished product unique.

Methods for making a knife handle

Handles according to the method of attachment are divided into:

Overhead, in the case of a wide shank, often defining the contour of the future handle. The handle is assembled from two parts fixed with rivets.

This mounting method does not limit the size, so you can balance a wide or long blade. Therefore, this design has found wide application in kitchen knives.

Mounted, when the blade has a narrow shank. The handle is one-piece, quite resistant to damage, has light weight in comparison with riveted ones, which predetermines their use in long-term labor-intensive work.

Materials and tools

For the handle of the knife, valuable wood is used. Walnut and maple are considered the best, beech, cherry, birch, oak and many others are used. They have a beautiful texture, sufficient strength, high surface quality after grinding and a long service life.

When choosing raw materials, it is necessary to pay attention to the presence of shells, to humidity - over-dried material will crack, too damp is prone to decomposition. The required humidity should not exceed 12-15%. The stale material is also not suitable for work.

For wood processing, impregnation is required. Suitable linseed drying oil or dish varnish, pure mineral oil.

Impregnation is needed to protect the finished product from moisture, and with good polishing it gives shine, emphasizing a special elegance. For the final stage of processing, you will need wax, rosin, turpentine, as well as “zero” sandpaper.

If the choice is made on the mounted method, then epoxy resin and wood sawdust are needed for reliable fastening. For the overhead method, you will need a copper, brass or bronze rod and also epoxy glue.

As a tool for manual processing, a hacksaw, a planer, chisels, rasps, scrapers, abrasive stones, and a vice are used. You can also use power tools: an electric drill, electric jigsaw, chisel and others.

Making a wooden knife handle

Sometimes there are times when you need to replace the handle of an old knife or just make a new tool yourself. Let's take a look at the points on how to make a handle for a knife in a mounted way and overhead, or riveted ordinary person without special skills.

Insertion handle

Treat the pre-selected tree with an antiseptic.

Cut out the workpiece of a suitable shape, be sure to pay attention to the angle of the cut to get a beautiful texture cut. Homogeneous wood without compositions is considered.

Mark out and drill a hole desired diameter and slightly longer than the blade shank. Dilute the epoxy resin in a ratio of 100:13, mix with sawdust and pour the resulting mixture into the hole. Insert the blade shank, pre-wrapped with tape to protect it from contamination. Now clamp the semi-finished knife into the press and wait 1 day for the resin to dry.

If the handle is with notches for the fingers, then a deeper recess must be made under the index finger. With the help of plasticine, you can make a visual form so as not to make a mistake on the tree. Next, using a cutter, rasp and sandpaper bring the workpiece to the desired form.

Then perform impregnation, for which the oil or drying oil is heated in a water bath and the knife handle is immersed in heated raw materials for 1 day. When cooked, there will be no air bubbles on the surface of the oil. Drying follows, preferably in the sun.

Carry out the final finishing "zero".

Mix rosin, turpentine and wax in a water bath and cover the handle with the resulting mixture. Finally, polish the handle and get rid of the tape on the blade.

Overhead handle

The tree treated with an antiseptic is clamped in a vice and cut into 2 parts. Surfaces adjacent to the blade tang are carefully ground and polished to avoid gaps. Tools for wood processing in this case, as in the description above.

Mark holes for mounting wooden blanks. A copper or brass rod of the desired diameter is selected in advance. Drill mounting holes to match the holes on the blade shank. Cut off the required number of blanks for rivets, let their length be greater than the thickness of the finished handle.

Make a rough assembly of knife parts using rods. Process the handle with a cutter and sandpaper for a symmetrical connection of the halves.

At first, you can work with the sides, and after disassembly, finish the flat front parts.

Smear the sides of the wooden parts of the handle against the shank side with epoxy, to which you can add a few drops of cartridge toner to obtain a suitable color shade. Wrap the knife blade with tape so as not to stain with glue. Connect with the knife blank and insert the prepared pieces of the rod.

Cut the protruding ends of the rivets flush with the handle.

The resulting product must be clamped in a vise. You can wrap the handle in oiled rubber to protect it from unnecessary scratches when squeezed. Drying time is at least a day.

At the next stage, we impregnate the product in the same way as described in paragraph 5 for the insertion handle. Oil treatment can be done several times.

After receiving the dried product, make a final polishing and opening with wax or ship varnish according to points 6 and 7 of the previous description.

Knife handle photo