Do-it-yourself kitchen corner: from drawing to upholstery. Do-it-yourself kitchen corner: we use drawings and diagrams for manufacturing Do-it-yourself kitchen corner making

The most important thing in a home is comfort. And one of its main attributes is a sofa.

The corner sofa is very convenient in its shape, as it can be easily placed in almost any room. You can store a variety of things in it, use it instead of a closet or pantry. A sofa is a very necessary and useful thing in any home.

An important factor is that making a sofa with your own hands, you can save a decent amount of money than buying it in a store.
When making a corner sofa for the first time, it would be better to make the most simplified version. You should choose not complex shapes, without semicircles and ovals.

So, you need to start making a sofa with sketches of drawings of its intended shape and size.

To make a frame you will need:
- plywood
- wooden planks and bars
- particle boards(chipboard)
- fibreboard (MDF)
- and oriented strand boards (OSB)

For soft parts and upholstery, we will need:
- foam rubber
- synthetic winterizer
- and batting

In general, the material can be replaced by any other available options.

You need to start the assembly from the lower frame of the sofa (meaning the seat).

The frame must be twisted from the back with self-tapping screws or corner metal plates. The width of the board should be approximately 20 to 25 cm.

Sheets of oriented strand boards (OSB), the bottom of the box is hemmed

There are several ways to cover the top of the box:
- Twist the OSB sheets well or stuff the binding with rope straps, and then lay the foam cushion on top.
- Glue the foam onto the OSB and make a one-piece seat cover that will need to be attached to the frame using the hinges. And then make it like a niche.
- Or the third option, in which you can use the previous two: one half needs to be hammered, and the second one should be made lifting.

Next, we proceed to the manufacture of the back of the frame.
The back frame is made of board. The back support part is sheathed with OSB sheet, and the back part can be upholstered with cotton fabric or spandbond

In the photo you can see what the closed seat looks like.
The dimensions of the backrest (width, length, height) depend directly on the finishing materials that are available. These are foam rubber mats and back cushions. In general, you can make them yourself from foam rubber.

The other part of the sofa must be done in exactly the same way step by step, up to the top seat. On the OSB sheet, which is cut to the size of the box, it is necessary to attach foam rubber with aerosol glue, then cover it with spandbond and padding polyester, carefully stretch and nail the edges from the back around the entire perimeter with a stapler. Then sew the cover to size and fully fit. After that, it will fit well on the top seat. If desired, the cover can be fixed with loops.

The corner element that will connect the sofa is also made from existing materials. True, in its manufacture, it is necessary to be guided by the dimensions of the side parts of the sofa. The lower front part and the back are pasted over with batting, and on top we lay out the spandbond. Its surface is slippery, so it will be convenient to stretch and level the fabric and upholstery covers.
All three backs need to be upholstered with cotton fabric or any other that is available.

When making a corner sofa, one of the most important steps is sewing covers and upholstery of parts that will not be removed. For this you need a sewing machine. If you do not have it available, you can simply cut out all the necessary details and ask someone you know to do tailoring.

From wooden bars with through holes, legs for frames are made. The legs are fastened with self-tapping screws to the lower frames, which were made according to the size of the boxes from a wooden corner plinth. The frame must be attached to the frame and pulled with a long screw through the holes that are cut in the legs to the main frame.

After installing the corner part, we move the side parts to it, then we twist the lower parts of the walls together.
Now you need to make the side armrests. It's very simple.

The kitchen corner is a piece of furniture that will never go out of fashion and will change and transform along with design trends. If you decide to put just such a corner in your kitchen that will become both a place of rest and a dining area, you probably already know what furniture should be. Making a kitchen corner with your own hands is a decision that many make.

This choice may be due to several factors. For example, you need to choose a soft corner for a small kitchen, but the store simply doesn’t have the right model. Or you want to feel like a designer and enjoy furniture that will become a source of pride for many years.

In general, there are many reasons. And the most important is the cost of the corner. A do-it-yourself kitchen corner made of chipboard will cost an order of magnitude cheaper than a similar "salon" model. Before we proceed to the manufacture of furniture, you need to go through two important steps:

• Decide where the corner will stand and in which direction it will “look” - to the right or left. Next, you need to draw a drawing, where you will reflect all measurements - the height of the frame (seat), the height of the backrest and the width of the product. The more detailed and accurate the measurements, the easier it will be for you to calculate the amount of material and assemble all the details together.
• Choose the material for upholstery and filling the frame. As for the upholstery material, it is worth adhering to practicality here - synthetics, microfiber and leatherette will be the best choice. Synthetic upholstery will be easy to clean, it will not lose color and its attractiveness. Microfiber is considered the most suitable option for the kitchen, as this material has water and dirt-repellent properties. The filler can be either simple foam rubber or more reliable polyurethane foam.

Now let's start designing a corner for the kitchen with our own hands. We will make it from chipboard sheets, and the furniture will consist of three parts - a long and short sofa and a connecting corner.

Tools and materials

The drawing will allow you to count the number of chipboard sheets. You will also need the filler and upholstery you have chosen. Important point- choose the height of the seat you need. This is easy to do - take a chair or stool as a height sample. If the height is suitable, design a corner sofa with the same dimensions. Next, prepare the tools and accessories. You will need:

• jigsaw;
• screws and dowels;
• metal corners for furniture and hinges;
• glue;
• nichrome thread;
• thrust bearings;
• edge for end processing.

You may also need varnish or paint for decoration, a furniture stapler, a hammer and a tape measure. All materials and tools are ready, let's start designing a kitchen corner with our own hands.

Part number 1 - long sofa

Let's start the installation with a long sofa. For example, let's take a structure with the following indicators: the length will be 1 meter, the height - 80, and the depth - 40 centimeters. First you need to cut out all the details of the future sofa from chipboard according to the drawing and measurements. You will have the following details:

1. Two sides.
2. The bottom of the niche (frame).
3. The front part of the niche.
4. Lateral niche.
5. Seat.
6. Back.
7. Persistent part for the bar.
8. Seat plank.
9. Plank for the top.

For example, let's take some measurements of the details. Our seat will be 96X30 in size, the back is 96X26, and the front of the niche is 96X31 cm. It is clear that the sidewalls will be 80X40 cm in size. They are also the main details. Let's start assembling the sofa from the sidewalls.

• The first thing we do is milling marks, taking into account the main dimensions, width, height and depth of your sofa. Then we outline the holes for the screws and the docking points with other parts. If it is difficult for you to do this the first time, practice on plywood or a separate sheet of chipboard.
• Next, the sides need to be pasted over with an edge with glue, and furniture thrust bearings should be screwed onto the lower ends. The latter are fastened with self-tapping screws.
• Now you need to design a niche, it is also a box, which will be a stiffener. You will need two sheets for the sides and one for the bottom. The bottom of the niche can also be made of plywood. According to the measurements, cut out the pieces and connect the parts together with self-tapping screws. In essence, you need to make a regular box.
• Next, you will need a seat bar - this part is needed to secure the lift seat with metal loops. The bar is held on dowels. The dimensions of our bar will be 96x100 centimeters.
• You will also need a thrust bar with dimensions of 96x60 cm. When you measure the thrust bar, subtract 2 centimeters, as it will be additionally covered with upholstery and filler.
• Next, make the back according to your measurements and attach it to the sidewalls with the help of dowels.
• Then fasten the thrust and upper strips to the back.
• Now you need to fix the corners. Most a budget option is to use wooden blocks that are cut at an angle. But it is best to use metal ones - they will securely fix the structure and they can be rotated at an angle of 5 degrees.

The main structure is assembled, then you can start upholstery of the sofa and soften the seat and back. You will need two pieces of foam that you cut to fit the seat and back, and two pieces of upholstery fabric. Foam rubber is best put on glue, and the upholstery fabric is fixed with a stapler. Be careful when folding the fabric at the corners - first you need to collect all the fabric inward, and then close with side pieces.

Part number 2 - a short sofa

The second part of the soft corner. For example, let's take the following measurements: a height of 80 cm, a length of 60 and a depth of 40 centimeters. In fact, the installation of the structure does not differ from the previous stage - you should get 10 elements (including 2 sidewalls). The difference will consist only in the size of the sofa - its length is 40 centimeters less. All other processes remain unchanged.

You need to assemble a kitchen corner with your own hands, starting with cutting out the sidewalls. Then you design niches (frame), cut out the back, go to the planks and connect all the elements to each other using dowels and metal corners. Next, glue the foam rubber and stretch the upholstery.

Part No. 3 - connecting corner

This part of the soft corner will connect the long and short sofa. It is clear that it will eventually be located in the corner of the kitchen. For example, the measurements of this part will be as follows: length 45, and height 80 centimeters. An important point is that in order for you to be able to firmly attach the structure to the wall, you will need to cut sharp corners from behind.

• You need to cut out all the details from the chipboard. You will have a trapezoidal seat and two or three (depending on the size of the corner) parts for the back, which will be connected at an angle. Prepare the parts according to your measurements.
• Now you need to attach all the parts to each other with dowels or self-tapping screws.
• Next, you need to cut out the thrust bar and connect it to the seat.
• The side parts are attached here after the seat and back are made. First fix the back and side pieces with dowels and metal corners, and then move down to the seat and frame.

The main structure is ready. Now you can fix the foam rubber and fit the part with a cloth. Secure the fabric with a stapler. In order to accurately cut thick foam rubber, taking into account every centimeter, use a hot nichrome thread.

So you made a kitchen corner for the kitchen with your own hands. You will have it collapsible, that is, all three elements can be moved and rearranged. If you need to connect all three parts, you can do this using metal corners.

You can also improve your soft corner by creating a sleeping place here according to the principle of a simple folding sofa. To do this, you do not need to disassemble the entire structure, redo a short sofa and a connecting corner. It is enough to upgrade the long part of the sofa with another sheet of chipboard, non-separable loops and more foam rubber.

True, a soft corner with a berth is useful only to those who have a kitchen with enough space. In a small kitchen, such a design will seem cumbersome.

Renovation and restoration of the kitchen corner

Since you know exactly where and what part you have fixed to the nearest centimeter, you can restore the corner at any time. Tired old upholstery or the filler has lost its shape?

It is necessary to disassemble the structure and proceed with the replacement of parts. If your corner consists of three modules that are not fastened to each other, replace them one by one. First you will need to remove the upholstery and remove the foam from the long sofa, then from the short one, and then move on to the trim of the connecting corner. How can you decorate your soft corner?

• With paint or varnish. You can paint the frame and sides in any color. Starting from a noble tree and ending with bright yellow or sunny orange. Changed the style of the kitchen - you can update the corner.
• With new upholstery material. For example, when designing a corner, you picked up velor, which eventually lost its beauty and became unusable. You can replace it with exquisite chenille or luxurious jacquard. Such fabrics are suitable for an oriental-style kitchen - they have intricate patterns.

You can also create and completely new design from natural wood. If you made a corner from chipboard for the first time and "filled your hand", then now it will be easier for you to design soft kitchen corners with your own hands from wood species such as pine and oak.

As a rule, such types of wood are chosen for the base of the corner and sidewalls, but the lower part of the box and fasteners can be made of plywood or the same chipboard.

We present a complete selection of diagrams and drawings for self-production of a kitchenette for small apartments.

To start...

From the History of the Kitchen Corner...

The progenitors of the kitchen corner are ordinary corner sofas, which appeared in the era of postmodernism and firmly became fashionable as a piece of furniture that is easy to use and indispensable for optimizing space. Almost simultaneously with the increase in the role of the kitchen in the house, it is functionally equated in some cases with the living room. For example, in Europe and the USA, small sofas and canapés are beginning to be sold in kitchens, later modernized into corners. Kitchen corners are also beginning to appear in the post-Soviet space own production– far from world design trends. If in the West it was modern style, the material is mostly natural solid wood, then we have chipboard, most often painted in White color, with red upholstery. At the same time, our corner seats were very practical, far from every unit of the same European furniture could be found such convenience for housewives as built-in internal drawers for things.

Kitchen corners with upholstery made of synthetic materials are easier to clean and last longer. appearance. In addition to the material, upholstery and filler of the seats, when choosing a corner for the kitchen, it is necessary to choose the direction of the corner correctly: kitchen corners are divided into right-handed and left-handed. Soft seats are ideal for an apartment or residential building, hard seats are more relevant for summer kitchens, open verandas or country cottages. The presence of a table, chairs or stools in the set is also a historical tribute to minimalism and aesthetics in the interior.

Making a kitchenette.

The kitchen corner of this model is very favorably distinguished by the presence of a huge corner niche for storage. Most kitchen corners in the standard version are made without a corner niche. They mount the corner seat and back on unreliable supports, while a huge amount of space that can be used properly turns into a hard-to-reach dust collector.

The corner consists of 3 separate modules, which can be very easily remounted, turning the corner from right-handed to left-handed. And even line up in one line along the wall.

The entire set of drawings, for convenience, is divided separately, in parts (sofas):

1
2
3		Corner sofa.

Materials.

For the manufacture of the kitchen corner used:

• laminated chipboard for front parts, thickness = 16 mm.,
• sanded (without coating) chipboard for internal parts, thickness = 16 mm.,
• PPU - polyurethane foam (foam rubber) for soft elements, thickness = 20 mm.,
• upholstery fabric (leatherette, fabric, leather) - according to individual preference.
• facing of ends of a chipboard - an edge of ABS 2 mm thick.

Auxiliary information.

Any adult man can make a soft corner for the kitchen, if he has free time for this, essential tool and desire.

A soft corner for the kitchen is like a final chord, like a beautiful photo frame. It completes the interior, gives it a cozy and home view. And it's also so nice to gather the whole family for breakfast or dinner. A neat and ergonomic set does not take up too much space, while 5-6 people can easily sit down here. So if your kitchen cannot boast of a large area, a corner will be a great option.

A suitable set of furniture can be purchased at any store - the cost of such corners is usually low. But in the photo in the catalogs and in life they look somehow very ordinary. And if you have a desire to make something really exclusive, you can assemble such a kit with your own hands. And our instructions and photos will help you with this.

Deciding on sizes

First, we need to come up with our soft kitchen corner: determine the dimensions, design features, build drawings and cutting patterns. We will work with inexpensive chipboard boards - they are easy to cut even hand tool, and it is easy to buy at any hardware store. Alternatively, the cut can be ordered to the nearest workshop in your city, having previously prepared a specification for furniture cases.

When choosing the design of a kitchen sofa, it is better to dwell on a modular assembly, since the corner section without additional racks will not be reliable enough. The corners of the pallets also look interesting and are quite reliable.

Dimensions upholstered furniture best determined on a kitchen plan drawn to scale (you can use graph paper). Here the main thing is to “place” the corner so that the passage between the dining group and other furnishings is at least 60 cm. The rest of the parameters are also chosen arbitrarily, but use the following numbers for guidance:

• The height along the back can be any, especially if it is curly, as in the photo designer furniture. But the most comfortable is the kitchen corner "height" 85-95 cm.
• The optimal seat depth is 45-50 cm, just keep in mind that there will still be a thick layer of foam rubber on the back, which will steal a few centimeters. So chipboard blanks will be a little wider.
• You choose the general dimensions of the furniture in length and width, but if the area allows, it will be enough to make a standard corner of 1.2x2 m.

If you liked the photo of the dinette, and its dimensions do not fit your kitchen, you can adapt the peeped version. Just calculate the multiplicity for one of the parameters to get a constant factor and translate all the values ​​from the original drawing into your dimensions.

Materials and cutting

To make a corner with your own hands, you will need laminated chipboard sheets with a thickness of 16-18 mm. When the furniture drawing is ready, you can complete the detailing by laying out the corner on the planks. Carefully examine the photo of the model you like and, if possible, from all sides, so as not to miss anything.

You should end up with a spec like this:

• The front panel of the box under the seat - 2 pcs. and the same number of back walls.
• Curly racks (support sidewalls) - 4 pcs. or 6 if the sofa will consist of three separate sections.
• The bottom of the box (you can use fiberboard) - 2 pcs.
• Seats and backs - 3 pcs.

All this needs to be “decomposed” with paper or in a special computer program on a standard chipboard sheet in order to build a cutting pattern. Examples of detailing specifically for kitchen corners can be found in the photo on the Web. Then it only remains to give the drawing to the furniture makers or use it yourself if it is decided to do all the work with your own hands from and to.

After cutting, the finished parts must be fed. To do this, it is better to take a good tape made of ABS plastic with an adhesive layer already applied, instead of cheap and short-lived PVC. However, this service can be ordered by specialists who will cut furniture sheets for you.

The most difficult moment in the whole work is the back of the corner section of the kitchen sofa. It will not be possible to make it semicircular from a chipboard sheet with your own hands, so it is better to immediately simplify the task and assemble it from three separate panels.

To cover the sofa with your own hands, you will need to purchase foam rubber 38 g / m 3 5-10 cm thick, dense upholstery fabric such as tapestry, jacquard or artificial leather, as well as thin nonwoven fabric to close the fasteners from the back kitchen furniture. Blanks for soft elements are lubricated with glue and a packing is placed on it. At the same time, foam rubber sheets for seats are cut 2 cm wider in order to bend the edge inward at the end. For the backs, 4 cm are added, since here you will have to bend the foam rubber both from above and from below.

Having cut out with your own hands a fabric for covering furniture with a margin of 5-10 cm for folds on each side, it is attached to the seats with a stapler. In this case, the material must be well stretched, and the staples must be driven in around the entire perimeter as often as possible. We do the same with the backs. Particular attention should be paid to the corners: the more carefully you fold and secure them, the more your homemade sofa will look like a photo from a store catalog.

All elements of the kitchen corner are ready, it remains only to fill the thrust bearings on the ends of the side legs. You can do without them, but in the case of chipboard is better take a few more minutes to get things right. Firstly, small supports will allow you to safely move furniture along the floor without scratching the coating and without flattening the lower edges. Secondly, they will slightly raise the corner, so that during mopping you will not damage or wet the chipboard. Yes, and the kitchen sofa on neat thrust bearings looks more aesthetically pleasing - you can’t distinguish it from the factory one from the photo.

Assembly

Now you have a designer in front of you, which remains only to assemble with your own hands into a single kit. The sofa and side seat boxes are mounted in the same way:

1. Mark the sidewalls and drill holes in them for the dowels. Place support bars on them, which will take on the weight of the bottom of the box and the top of the seats.
2. Screw metal corners 27x27 to the sides of the case - 4 for each. Through them, attach the back walls of the furniture to make an open box.
3. Install the bottom of the polished chipboard on the resulting frame, and then screw the front panel to the screeds. Moreover, it is better to tilt it a little - by 10 degrees, so that those sitting at the table are comfortable, and the bar does not interfere with the legs.
4. Screw the support bar from the inside to the back wall of the box, and put the piano hinges on it and fix the folding seat on them.
5. Screw the backrests with euro screws to the sidewalls, making a slight slope of about 5 °. They are attached to the benches through a support bar, planted on dowels, and with the help of slightly unbent metal corners.

Now our kitchen sofa is more like a pair of separate benches that will be connected with a corner module. It is easier to make it without the bottom box, but with its own side supports for strength. In fact, here you just need to screw the strips under the seat to the figured legs and fix the segment already covered with fabric on them. With the help of dowels, a back is attached to it, which in this case plays the role of an additional stiffener. That's all - the assembled module can be screwed to the short and long benches of the corner, pulling them together, and your

Without a kitchen corner - a corner sofa in addition to and, chairs or a bench - modern life is already unthinkable. Making a kitchen corner with your own hands makes sense not only for the sake of saving money: not every model for sale will definitely fit into a free corner of the kitchen, and one that is suitable in size may not fit in design or price. A kitchen corner piece of furniture is not a difficult one, but a novice craftsman, not properly equipped with rather expensive equipment, is on the way to turning it into a product stumble upon many pitfalls. This article is about how to get around them and still make a corner in the kitchen at home, not inferior to the factory one.

Note: the secret of comfort that the kitchen corner creates is in its aesthetic self-sufficiency. A corner sofa with a table and stools / bench is a self-zoned piece of furniture, it will create an area of ​​​​calm and well-being, a kind of virtual bay window or alcove, and in an open field or barn.

What to do

Make a kitchen corner possible in different types execution. The main requirements for a kitchenette are compactness, convenience (ergonomics) and hygiene in the kitchen. We still need to achieve maximum savings Money, materials and labor, working as a public tool. Based on this, we will choose which of them can be made easier and better.

The main types of kitchen corners are shown in the photo. Pos. 1 - bay window corner, round or faceted. Each rider is given an optimum seat width of approx. 400-450 mm. The bay window is extremely comfortable and cozy, but, alas, it is complicated, expensive and requires an extensive kitchen.

A semi-bay corner will fit in the kitchen of a modern apartment above the middle class: the side sections are straight, and the width of the corner at the level of the knees is 200-300 mm, pos. 2. It is almost as convenient for a person of average build to sit in the corner of a half-window corner as in a bay window. In a kitchen of ordinary dimensions, corners with a beveled corner are most often placed instead of half-windows; in them, the knees of the rider account for 150-200 mm, pos. 3. You won’t turn around much anymore, but, sitting quietly, there are no thoughts of where to put your knees.

Lovers in a small kitchen most often make the corners straight, pos. 4, with a back wedge in the corner, pos. 5, and with a beveled back, pos. 5. Their convenience, technological complexity and cost increase in this row, but straight kitchen corners have a common positive property: if instead of a pair of stools on the long side of the kitchen table, the bench is the same height as the corner seats, then, moving the table and moving the bench, you can get a bed with a width of 600-850 mm. Very expensive and equipped with complex mechanisms, branded kitchen nooks with a berth are not at all more convenient, see fig. left. The corner with a beveled corner also has the property of transforming into a sleeping place without additional devices, if the seat angles of the complete bench acc. beveled in a way.

Note: in fig. on the right, a twisted offspring of modern marketing—an expensive straight kitchen nook. In fact, a straight corner is the most uncomfortable of all. Much more inconvenient than the closest relative - a corner with a wedge in the back. A straight kitchen corner is well suited except to put an unwanted guest in the corner. But he will not be able to leave in English, he will have to push the hosts away.

Corners with a beveled corner and a back are often complemented by a table and / or a bar in the corner, pos. 7-9. The first two are not an option: getting something from behind your back is inconvenient, and it’s easy to push or overturn inadvertently. If the owners are already firmly subject to prejudices and do not want to put anyone in a corner, then it is better to equip a mini sideboard with a chest and a bar in the corner, as in pos. nine.

At pos. 6, 7 and 8 show the corners with the so-called. hanging angle, i.e. without a separate support. Kitchen corners with hanging corners made of laminated chipboard are no less strong and durable than those with support ones, but they are cheaper and more technologically advanced in production. However, they cannot be modular (see below), because initially performed only right or left. For the consumer, their apparent cheapness, because. Hanging Angle cannot be transported assembled and must be assembled on site.

modular corners

Kitchen corners from unconnected pieces of furniture (modular, see fig.) are good in production and sale: there is no need to make right and left executions. They are also appreciated by those who often rearrange furniture; modular kitchen corners look good in studio apartments of laconic styles, such as loft, high-tech, minimalism. But the functionality with ergonomics of modular kitchen corners, simply put, is none - you can’t put anything in them, and it’s uncomfortable to sit in the corner.

Note: traditional kitchen corners are also made modular, from 3 separate items - a pair of sofas and a corner. They are placed right or left, turning the corner by 90 degrees, and one of the sofas by 180. However, such corners are more expensive, because. extra material is required per corner and its design becomes more complicated. It is very difficult to make a modular kitchen corner at home, because. to the required accuracy of pairing of parts within the 1st item (see below), the accuracy of pairing of objects with each other is added.

Do's and Don'ts

The first mistake when designing a kitchen corner is a table with legs and straight fronts of seats, pos. 1 in fig. The secret of comfort and self-zoning of the kitchen corner is its compactness and convenience, but here you can’t really move the table, and its legs get tangled in the knees of 3 people sitting. A corner for the kitchen must be made under the table of a beam-panel structure, pos. 2 and 3, and the seat fronts are either sloping (pos. 2) or with raised chest bottoms under the seats, pos. 3.

The second mistake - do not make drawers under the seats, pos. 4 and 5. They interfere with each other, spoil the floor. To get to the contents of the boxes, you need to move the table far away and kneel. If the house is maintained by a maid with a housekeeper, and the owner does not care about their worries, then a kitchen corner with drawers is a matter of taste. And for ourselves we need to make a corner in the kitchen with chests under folding or removable seats.

For business!

Which corner of the kitchen suits you best is up to you. And here we will see what difficulties you will have to face when making it at home without experience, and how to deal with them. The analysis will be based on the example of a well-known structure in Runet, the drawings of which are given below; the main materials are laminated and plain sanded chipboard 16 mm thick.

On the one hand, this corner requires minimal cost materials, labor and can be made much more convenient, see below. On the other hand, the prototype is focused on industrial technology, its design is rational and well developed, but we need to get a product no worse by assembling it at home on our knees and on weight. It was this sample that was also chosen because it is able to acquire everything best qualities a corner with a bevelled corner, plus the ability to serve as a bed, but technologically it is not much more complicated than a right corner. In addition, it has a generally correct specification with bills of material and fittings, see fig. on right.

Note: if you check / navigate according to other sources with descriptions of this sample, keep in mind - in part of them, and considerable, in the drawings of parts, the dimensions are given mixed for sofas 100 and 60 cm long. It is, of course, impossible to assemble the blanks cut out on them into the product.

For example, in the top row of Fig. with the drawings, assembly diagrams are given, clear as day to a factory technologist. But what to do with them without having production equipment? The sample under consideration is a shield box-shaped structure, similar to the load-bearing structure with load-bearing skin in the aircraft industry. Box-panel structures save material and labor as much as possible, resulting in very durable products, but a number of specific requirements are imposed on the technology of their manufacture. There are a lot of invisible tricks here, but you can deal with them, and we will do it. First for sofas, in this order:

1. Selection of fasteners;
2. Adjustment of sizes for a specific room;
3. Cutting chipboard and chipboard into blanks, marking and drilling holes;
4. Trimming edges of beveled parts and edging;
5. Upholstery of parts for which it is required with soft lining;
6. Assembly.

Next, let's see how you can simplify the manufacture of the corner section (corner) and make it more convenient. The original design is modular, but in our apartment the corners of the walls do not change places by themselves. Knowing exactly where the corner will stand, whether it will be right or left, the corner can be made hanging (see below), and this will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of work.

fasteners

The main fasteners of this kitchen corner, which perceive operational loads, are confirmatory furniture screws and steel corner connectors; dowels play a supporting role, keeping parts from moving. The specification above gives a list of fittings for assembly in an industrial environment, but for home performance, something in it will have to be changed.

Note: in products made of laminated chipboard and chipboard, it is rarely possible to replace confirmations with wood screws to connect parts through the face to the edge. In this product - in no case is it possible, because. boards are very thin, 16 mm. Connecting corners are attached to the parts with wood screws, see below.

Confirmates

The standard size of confirmations 7x50 specified in the specification is the maximum allowable for a given thickness of chipboard / chipboard. This makes it possible to transport the corner modules in assembled form and reduce its cost somewhat, because. there is no need for on-site assembly, and any of the modules is brought into the apartment by a person with the physical development of an office type. But marking and drilling for the thickest fasteners also require production accuracy (see below), which cannot be achieved by working at home with your hands. For example, can you, using a hand-held electric drill, feed the drill perpendicular or parallel to the face of the board with a side deviation of no more than 0.1 mm? The question is rhetorical. Therefore, under manual work provided that the product will not be transported over long distances with shaking and jolts, the standard size of confirmations must be reduced to 6x50 or even 5x60. Otherwise, i.e. if you take fasteners according to industrial specifications, some of the parts may delaminate during drilling or assembly. If chipboard / chipboard are taken from environmentally friendly grades E0 or E1, then it will definitely delaminate, so chipboard / chipboard should be taken household grade E2, and if you want E0 / E1, then the thickness of the boards should be increased to 24/20 mm, adjusting accordingly. dimensions, see below.

Important for the strength of the connection with confirmations is the height of the screw neck H, see pos. 1 in fig. H must exactly equal the thickness of the overlay board, on the right in pos. 1. Sometimes H is indicated by the 3rd digit in the name of the screw size, i.e. you will need confirmations 6x50x16 or 5x60x16 for the original design or 6x50x24 / 6x50x20 or 5x60x24 / 5x60x20 in case of using boards of greater thickness.

A drill for confirmations must be taken exactly for a given screw size. The height of its skirt should be equal to H (in the center at pos. 1), the diameter should be equal to the diameter of the screw body without thread, and the length of the helical part of the drill L (without cutting tip) should be equal to the full length of the threaded part of the screw. If the heel of the screw rests against the residual conical hole in the hole, then hidden delamination in thin boards is guaranteed, and its propagation outward is only a matter of time. Small.

Dowels

In all sources on the topic of the kitchen corner in question, with enviable constancy, but without proper understanding, photos of wooden dowels are given as illustrations. This is a big mistake in this case. Wooden dowels are designed to connect wooden parts: they dry out along with the base materials, and the connection holds firmly for many years. Or centuries, if the furniture was made by an outstanding master.

Chipboard / chipboard do not dry out and therefore are connected with plastic dowels. If you take a slightly more expensive propylene, then there is no need for a rather laborious and requiring high accuracy gluing of the joints. For the above reasons, the diameter of the dowels under manual production need to be reduced to 6 mm, leaving their length the same. In the edges of the boards, holes for dowels are drilled only along the conductor (pos. 4 in the figure); diameter - 5.3 mm, drilling depth 22 mm in edges and 12 mm in faces.

The seats (see below) can be made not folding, but removable, by placing them on dowels with rounded heads for detachable connections (at the top in pos. 2). This will allow you to abandon the rather complicated installation of piano hinges, the cost of them and fasteners for them. And if they decide to rearrange the corner in a hurry, then the likelihood of damage to it decreases: they grabbed the seat without thinking, it remained in their hands, and the sofa did not bounce and did not hit anything. Getting something out of the chest under the seat on piano hinges is not at all more convenient, because. seat cover reclines less than 90 degrees. It is easier to remove it and lean it against the back than to rummage through the chest, holding the lid with your hand. But in the construction under consideration, this, unfortunately, is impossible, see below.

It is better to take other dowels for our kitchen corner with faceplates, below in pos. 2. Washer thickness 0.5-0.7mm; at first, such gaps will not be visible. After some time, the washers will be pressed into the chipboard (the parts are tightly pulled together by confirmations), the gaps will converge, and the entire product will acquire additional strength. Another advantage of this type of dowels is the different corrugation on the long and short parts, which provides even higher bonding strength without the risk of delamination of the boards. You just need to pick up the dowels of the required size: with a 20 mm long part and a 10 mm short part (for 16 mm boards). For boards 20/24 mm, the long part is 30 mm, and the short part is 12/16 mm.

corners

For the design under consideration, you will need steel isosceles corner connectors 30x20x2 (for fasteners obliquely) or 30x15x2 for fasteners in a row. The first number indicates the length of the corner shelves, the second their width, the third - the thickness of the material. During assembly, the corners will partially have to be bent to mount inclined parts, so you need to take them white or gray from viscous “raw” or moderately annealed steel. The presence of stamping stiffness on the bend for bendable corners is unacceptable, pos. 4 in fig. The inner and outer folds of the corners should be smooth, without tears or wrinkles. The corners of burnt steel, yellowish with spots of tarnish colors, if bent, then cracked. Black phosphated corners from the so-called. overdried steel is very strong, but when bent, it immediately breaks.

Note: plastic furniture corners, so you know, can be bent by warming up thoroughly with a household hair dryer at full power. But plastic corners serve no more than 3-5 years, and then dry out and crack.

Dimensions

Let us turn again to fig. with drawings (duplicated on the right). The dimensions are corrected there: the lengths of the sofa 1 m long are given in black; red and blue next to "black" for a small sofa 60 cm long. The green marks will come in handy later when we get to the corner seat.

The "red" sizes are basic: you need to add to them the missing from 600 mm for sofas of greater length. For example, for a sofa 1.3 m long, 700 mm must be added to the “red” dimensions. The largest possible length of a sofa of this design is 1.5 m. The “blue” sizes are relevant for sofas up to 750 mm long. If the sofa is longer, instead of "blue" sizes, you need to take "black".

6th position

There is no 6th part in the drawings. This is a blank seat, a simple board without any holes there. Its length is equal to the length of the lengths of the sofa (968/568 mm in the drawings) minus the double thickness of the upholstery fabric, it is kept within 1-3 mm. Thickness of flock and microfiber optimal in the kitchen approx. 1.5 mm including folds, so in this version the length of the seat will be 965 mm for a large sofa and 565 mm for a small one. Minimum seat width 297 mm, including fabric upholstery and installation on piano hinges, see below. If the dimensions of the kitchen allow, the width of the seat can be increased, then its overhang is formed in front. With the corner seat option discussed below, the maximum seat width of the sofas is 444 mm; then the bevel of the seat of the corner section is reduced. The width of the bed in this case can be obtained up to 900 mm.

Cutting and sawing

Sawing sheets of chipboard / chipboard into workpieces is done with an electric jigsaw along the contour. The contour is guided according to the template, so the jigsaw file must be cut along the inner edge of its line. The upper and lower edges of parts 2 (chest front) and 8 (back base) in fig. with the drawings, it is necessary to cut obliquely, for which you need a jigsaw with an inclined shoe or you will need to buy a shoe to the existing one. The angle of inclination of the front of the chest is 10 degrees, and the back is 5 degrees. The scales of some shoes are graduated in units of relative inclination; for an angle of 5 degrees it is 0.085, and for 10 degrees it is 0.177. Not 0.175, as it might seem, since the relative slope is nothing but the tangent resp. angle.

The jigsaw blade for cutting is beveled inward from the edge to be cut. For children 2 (facade) the upper edge is cut from the face so that the upper edge remains intact outer corner, and the lower one, on the contrary, from the underside (inside out), so as not to cut off the inner lower corner. The edges of the back, as it is tilted back to the facade, cut in the reverse order: the top from the rear, and the bottom from the front.

edging

The free edges of the details of the kitchen corner need to be covered with something in the general tone. Edging kitchen furniture PVC edging A T-profile is undesirable, not because the groove for the edge must be selected by a milling machine, but because dirt will accumulate in the edge gaps. By the way, for the same reason, it is advisable to make a table in the kitchen under the finished postforming tabletop: it does not require edging at all and is equipped with a drip collector.

Visible and touchable edges of kitchen furniture are covered with a tape made of plastic of a complex composition ABS (ABS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) up to 2 mm thick, and the rear and falling above the floor - with crepe paper tape. ABS is absolutely safe, hygienic and environmentally friendly; medical equipment is also made from it. ABS and paper edges are produced dry and self-adhesive. The former are designed for industrial use with a separate supply of glue, so you need to take self-adhesive ones for yourself. Edging the kitchen corner with self-adhesive edges is done as follows:

• The edge tape is cut from the roll to the desired length plus 2-3 cm. It is convenient to measure the lengths of the curved edges with a tailor's meter.
• 2-4 cm of the protective film are peeled off from the end of the segment, without touching the adhesive layer with your fingers.
• Place the end of the tape on the edge evenly along and press.
• Holding the tape with your hand, pull it out from under it with the other hand protective film for the original tail. The tape should lie on the edge on its own.
• When the tape is all on the edge, it is rolled with a rubber roller.

In general, the procedure is the same as for high-quality self-adhesive gluing. By the way, this is a good finishing option if you decide to make the entire kitchen corner from inexpensive polished chipboard: there are few visible parts in it, and an experienced carpenter will not immediately distinguish a textured self-adhesive under acrylic varnish from natural wood. Self-adhesive gluing is carried out after sawing and trimming the edges before edging. In this case, the inside of the chest can simply be varnished.

Marking and drilling

The accuracy of marking the details of box-panel structures made of chipboard / chipboard is required no worse than +/-0.5 mm, but how can it be maintained on the edges and polished chipboard, if the size of the fibers of the material is of the same order? There are no problems with this at the factory, there is no marking as such - they cut and drill automatic machines. In handicraft production, templates are used, but in order to check each one, you have to spoil up to 2-3 blanks. For piece production at home, it is so unacceptable, if only because it takes a lot of templates and it will take so much time to make them that it’s easier to buy a ready-made corner. Moreover, the quality of the product from parts marked according to templates turns out to be 3+ at best.

Firstly, the marking of holes on the details of the kitchen corner made of chipboard / chipboard must be done so-called. a marking caliper with sharp jaws for measuring external dimensions and a vernier for precise installation of the carriage (on the left in the figure). Experienced locksmiths sometimes make a marking caliper from a regular one, sharply and very carefully sharpening tightly flattened outer jaws on fine emery, but manually set the tool carriage exactly according to nonius is difficult.

Note: electronic barbells, incl. marking (on the right in the figure) in fact, it turns out to be not so convenient to use, and the marking accuracy is worse. Here, electronics has not yet caught up with the good old mechanics.

Further, the marking of holes on all parts is done from the underside. When marking asymmetrical sidewalls, keep this in mind so that it does not come out in a mirror image. Mirrored, of course, the right and left sidewalls.

Then, between the centers of the extreme holes for fastening the mating part, the axial lines are drawn into the edge with confirmations and they are beaten off to the sides along half the width of the attached board. The extension of the part to be attached is beaten along the center line and also marked to form the contour of its edge. On the underside of each board, it is necessary to mark the contours of all attached edges in this way, this is necessary for accurate assembly. Edge beating accuracy is required +/-0.5 mm, which in this case is provided by a locksmith's corner with millimeter divisions and a steel bench's ruler.

Sverlovka

Blind holes for dowels are drilled immediately according to the required diameter to the desired depth, as described above. But for the time being, we drill holes for confirmations only through the plates of the boards and only with the spiral part of the drill, i.e. not full diameter. We will drill completely later, in the order of assembly, so the entire kitchen corner will turn out without distortions and cracks.

Upholstery and upholstery

Before assembly, the sofas need to be completely covered with backs with seats, and from the parts of the corner seat, also segments of the back separately. We will talk about tight fitting and assembling the corner of the kitchen corner later, but for now we will limit ourselves to sofas.

Hollofiber, excellent for interior furniture, does not fit well in the kitchen, in the local microclimate it is not particularly hygienic. Kitchen furniture padding is made from low permeability foam rubber grades EL2240, EL2540, EL2842, EL3050, EL3245, EL3550 and EL4050. The first 2 digits characterize the rigidity, and the last 2 indicate the density in kg / cu. m. Load bearing capacity within this range grows from 60 to 120 kg per sq. m, which means that this material is able to withstand such a weight indefinitely, fully straightening out when the load is removed. Universal is foam rubber EL2842; lower grades go to the back, EL3050 and EL3245 to the seat, and EL3550 and EL4050 are for furniture in public buildings or for especially overweight riders.

The thickness of the foam rubber layer is needed 20-40 mm. It is recommended to cut this evenly with a heated nichrome thread. It is also easy to make a machine for cutting foam and foam rubber with your own hands, but it is still extra work. In addition, in order for the machine to be safe, the thread must be powered from a 12V 5A power supply, and this work is already more serious or a solid expense of money. However, it is easier to cut pieces of foam rubber with fairly even edges:

1. A steel locksmith ruler is glued along the cut line with tape;
2. The cut is carried out with a new, absolutely sharp mounting knife in several steps along the ruler;
3. For the first cut, the blade is extended by 5-7 mm, and the knife clip is supported by a ruler. Take a closer look at your knife - the end of its clip is angled, this is just for such cases;
4. For subsequent cuts, the blade is extended more by the same amount until the entire layer is cut.

The seats of the kitchenette are upholstered with foam rubber with a turn-up on the front edge. On the hem, you need to give an allowance of 2-3 board thicknesses. Foam rubber sheets for the backs are cut exactly to the size of the base. The foam rubber is glued with the 88th glue, the gates are glued last. If the seat is extended, then it is better to round its front edge before gluing, and give an allowance of foam rubber in 4-5 board thicknesses, see fig. on right. Sitting on such a seat will be much more comfortable.

close-fitting

Ordinary upholstery fabrics are rarely used in high-quality kitchen furniture, because. quickly soaked with a child and get dirty. Leatherette is more hygienic, but sitting on it in the heat is unpleasant, and installing air conditioning in the kitchen is not desirable for many reasons. It is best to sheathe a kitchen corner with flock or microfiber.

Flock is available in plain and colored, smooth and embossed, on the left and in the center in fig. Dirt gets entangled in its fibers without migrating back, and is removed during mandatory regular cleaning at least once every 2-3 months. The flock upholstery of kitchen furniture serves up to 10 years or more.

Microfiber works on the same principle, but its fibers are regular plexuses of the finest fibers. Microfiber, as it were, draws dirt into itself and firmly holds it; originally this material was developed for cleaning optical glasses. Microfiber is available only in plain, modest colors (on the right in the figure); maintenance during the entire period of operation is not required. Unfortunately, this material is expensive and lasts no more than 3-5 years, and then you need to completely change the upholstery: microfiber cannot be cleaned, because. this disrupts its structure.

Fasten the flock and microfiber upholstery as usual with a furniture stapler to the underside of the base. The folds at the corners are glued with 88th glue: the fold is turned away, glue is dripped onto the fabric adjacent to the base, kept until tack-free, and the folded fold is pressed. It is not necessary to glue PVA, it can give stains visible from the outside.

Assembly

Before final assembly, thrust bearings are placed on the legs of the sidewalls. Any width of the thickness of the board will do, but it is still better to put round ones with threaded or dowel heads instead of those recommended by the authors of the original design: there will be fewer nooks for the accumulation of dirt. Dowel thrusters are cheaper than threaded ones, and it is easier to install them: holes are drilled in the edge of the legs for dowels (6 mm in this case), and the thrust bearings are simply pushed into place.

How to assemble home-made box-panel furniture without distortions, crevices and without using sophisticated production equipment, this question, as they say, is still the same. In this case, you can not do without a pair of corner furniture clamps, see fig. on right. Welding corner clamps they are not suitable with a common clamp, it is impossible to accurately bring the connected parts together, and with the help of furniture it is not so difficult:

• They put dowels in children. 4 in the drawing, lightly knocking with a rubber mallet or mallet;
• One of the sidewalls (detail 1 in the drawing) and the back wall of the chest (det. 4) are pulled together with clamps so that the edge is det. 4 entered the contour marked for her on the underside of det. one;
• Drill holes for confirmations and screw them;
• Without removing the clamps, they put children on the dowels. 3 - the bottom of the chest;
• The upper clamp is removed and rearranged to the far corner of parts 3 and 4;
• Connect parts 3 and 4 (with additional drilling of holes for confirmations). The clamp is immediately removed from their corner, otherwise it will remain in the sofa;
• Remove the remaining clamp (do not forget!), Put children. 5 (lower back tie) and attached to det. 4;
• They put children. 2 - facade of the chest;
• Attach the second sidewall without screwing the confirmations to the end. It is only necessary to bait so that the heads of the dowels enter the holes a little;
• Assemble the back (inset at the bottom right in the figure with drawings) and put it in place, pushing the sides of the back apart. Hold out confirmats on the 2nd sidewall;
• The seat is hung on piano hinges, see below.

Here the question is possible: why clamps, if there are already dowels? Dowels are not guides, they do not hold a corner and can break out during assembly on weight. Taking into account the fact that the marking and sawing were done manually, you can’t do without clamps. Conscientious professional furniture assemblers use clamps with might and main, but why should we hack for ourselves?

seats

Putting seats on dowels with rounded heads in our case will not work, because. the facade of the chest is sloping. If we confine ourselves to dowels on the edge of its rear wall, then they will quickly be broken out even when carefully removing the seat cover. The seats of the sofas of the kitchen corner are hung on piano hinges, but you should not take 1-2 long ones (item 1 in the figure): hang the chest lid on such so that it lies in place evenly and does not warp when folded back, without special equipment complicated. You need to take 3-4 short loops for fastening in a row, pos. 2. Zigzag hinges (pos. 3) are not suitable - how to attach them to a 16mm board? The same applies to card loops, pos. 4, strongly recommended by a number of authors.

The wings of the seat hinges should be as wide as the thickness of the board. First, the hinges are placed on the seat, aligning the edges of the wings along the bottom edge of the board along with the upholstery. Then an assistant is needed: he will hold the seat, and the master will align the edge of the wing of one of the extreme loops along the lower edge of the board of the lower back tie (det. 5 in the drawings) and bait with a pair of self-tapping screws, not reaching them to the end. Then another extreme loop is also baited, and after that the rest are attached to the full tightness and the extreme ones reach out. The assistant keeps the seat reclined all this time.

Injection

The corner module of the original design is rather complicated (item 1 in the figure), not quite convenient and not very hygienic: dust and crumbs will fall along the gap between the back and seat just where it is difficult to remove them. Since, in our case, the entire corner is made at the place of constant operation, it would be more expedient to build a hanging corner for it, tightly fastened to the sofas. Drawings of its 5 parts - the seat, the support bar and 3 segments of the back - are given in fig. The bevel of the corner seat with sofa seats 400 mm wide comes out 210 mm, and this is considered a half-window that fits in a small kitchen. The bevel can be straight, convex and concave. The most convenient is a slightly convex bevel, but then it will not be possible to attach a bench to arrange a sleeping place. The back is slanted upwards, which further improves the ergonomics.

The dimensions of the backrest segments must be verified in place along the trail. reasons. First, the thickness of the skin greatly affects small details. Since the sofas are sheathed earlier, this value will be known by the beginning of the manufacture of the corner section. Secondly, all the dimensional errors accumulated in the sofas will converge into one thing exactly in the corner.

And yet, it is necessary to sheathe the seat and back segments along the plate freely, without tension, so that the back does not overtighten the fabric during assembly. The lower edges of the segments need to be beveled inward by 2 mm (at an angle of 10 degrees, this is with a margin). The tops of the segments can be curly (options in pos. 4 and 5 of the figure), so long as the contours at the junction points converge.

Note: rear support racks can be omitted if there are no suitable scraps and riders weighing less than 100 kg. If you put, then they are fastened in pairs of confirmations through the face to the edge. The heel of the lower support is sealed with ABS trim and just sits on the floor.

Corners in a corner

This corner has 2 secrets. The first is a nook under the seat. From the point of view of a pet, this is a safe and safe retreat from the main house. And from the point of view of the owners - not giving them unnecessary trouble.

Second. The middle segment of the back does not carry operational loads. If you put it instead of self-tapping screws on friction pins, a cache is formed in the cavity behind it. It will only be necessary to sew an outward-facing tongue-strap made of durable fabric to the upholstery of the lower edge, and sew up the fiberboard from the rear corner section. When closing the cache, the tongue is tucked inward so that it is not visible. To open the cache, you need to pry off the tongue and pull it out with a fork or something like that. The segment is removed by pulling the tongue and the top of the back. From an experienced burglar or a professional search, this cache is unlikely to hide anything, but it is quite reliable from an amateur thief or excessively curious household members.

the old fashioned way

A kitchen corner made of wood looks chic in any setting, whether it is made from an array of valuable species or boards from unusable building pallets - a pallet, see fig. And making a wooden kitchen corner with your own hands can be no more difficult and no more expensive than the one described above.

To start carpentry on wood, and not on viscous and fragile chipboard, it is not necessary to immediately buy an expensive triad planer - manual milling machine - grinder. You can get by with a traditional manual (and non-volatile!) hand tool. His processing of small parts in piece production is often easier and faster than readjusting the machine for the next operation.

To begin with, in addition to a jigsaw (we are not pedants, this tool is not very expensive, often needed and better than a bow saw in every respect), you will need an ordinary carpentry planer, a hand jointer and a set of wood rasps. At first, one so-called. office rasp, flat-convex with a tapered end, on the right in the figure:

You will also need selective (emphasis on the “s”) straight and beveled zentooth planers (on the left in the figure).

For the primary processing of knotty wood, a sherhebel planer is needed, in the center. Sherhebel works with a slight sliding to the side, as if cutting and cutting knots. You can turn an ordinary planer into a sherhebel by putting a “piece of iron” knife with a rounded blade into it.

Having got the hang of it a little, it will be possible to replenish the tool park with 3-4 more types of selected planers with interchangeable pieces of iron for them, see next. rice. Take a closer look at antique furniture: it was made with just such a tool, and not modern machines with shaped cutters.

The last moment is the assembly (rallying) of furniture boards from the boards, they are also a furniture array. In theory, this requires special devices- clamps - 3 for the countertop, 4 for the sides of the cabinet and 2 for smaller shields. Here, firstly, one clamp can be replaced with a pair of jaws with clips for mounting on the rod, and a piece of timber suitable for the clips of thickness will go to the rod, see fig; usually 60 mm. Jaw sets for wyms and long clamps are sold separately.

Finally, wide shields are not needed for the kitchen corner; most often a shield for 3-4 boards is required. In this case, the shield from the boards can be assembled without special equipment at all, see the video:

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