How to install a heating radiator. Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator Rules for installing heating batteries

Specialist with a capital letter. Minimum words, maximum deeds. There are no headaches. Pay the money at the rate and sleep peacefully. Replacing batteries in a 2-room apartment. The price was approved by phone on the photo in advance. At the meeting, I saw that I still need to make exits under the cold and hot water and a towel rack...

in the bathroom. Showed how. They agreed on a price right away. Zero advance payments. Including materials. Sergey himself went to buy everything. He himself agreed to turn off the water and heating in the housing office. He came and did everything. I also found a leak in the heating riser ( old pipe) gave the phone number of plumbers with whom to resolve the issue. I sent a video and photo report at the end of the work. And now the main thing is that I am in Chelyabinsk and the apartment and Sergey are in Moscow. In order for this to happen, the daughter (studying in Moscow) gave him the key to the apartment in the evening, and took it the next day. Card payment. Check materials. Payment there on the card. And that's just after the work is done. Miracles and more.

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Vyacheslav, m. Pervomaiskaya

Order services: Installation of a heating radiator.

I am satisfied with the quality, and I think that if everyone, like you, approached those problems of citizens Russian Federation so we would live better. Every action of this man was measured. As a master and as a specialist, he rationally did everything. I was pleased not only with the quality of work, but also ...

his attitude. Thanks a lot to you and your company. You are an example for many companies on how to select employees, how to check them before submitting applications. I think they are one of the best companies on the market right now, at least for battery replacements, for sure. I allow you to publish a review, because. I think that it is worthy, correct, reasonable and very effective, so that people are satisfied, and not the way I selected masters until I reached Profi.ru. Everything is really clear here: it suits, it means it suits, everything was clear in terms of cost. If I need anything, I will definitely contact you again.

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I wrote a request to replace the batteries, but everything was much more serious. Doing in the house overhaul and after visiting the neighbors, who have already changed the heating in the apartment for free, and who are now waiting for the free repair of some rooms after the replacement, it was decided to make a replacement in their...

apartment on your own. Sergey was explained his scope of work, he agreed, he was consulted by phone for a long time, he answered all questions. At the appointed time, he arrived with an assistant. He has gas welding, for us it was also important. I brought with me all the tools and even replaceable batteries (just in case) and did the job quickly and accurately. I recommend it for difficult tasks. The work is very dusty, cover everything with a film if you have a living space

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Sooner or later, any heating radiator will have to be changed. This happens if it fails, starting to leak. Or if on his inner surface for many years of operation, so much lime deposits have accumulated that it cannot cope with the heating function. This requires high-quality installation of heating radiators that meets the standards established by SNiP.

In a private house, installation can be performed by the owner. Even if a leak is detected at system startup, it is easy to turn off individual heating to eliminate deficiencies. In multi-storey buildings, everything is more complicated. If at the junction of pipes and radiators the coolant begins to dig 2-3 weeks after the start heating season, it is difficult to turn off the heating system of the whole house. In addition, neighbors will suffer due to lack of heating or due to flooding.

Plumbing specialists know how to properly install heating radiators in an apartment, so it is better to entrust this work to them.

Even if an accident occurs after the system starts up, they will be held responsible for what happened. They will have to fix it at their own expense, as well as pay for the damage caused to the residents. If the installation of heating radiators carried out by the masters, the price of which turned out to be too high, the consumer cannot afford, the work will have to be done independently. To do this, you need to read the instructions that came with the new heater, study the installation diagram.

Before you install heating radiators with your own hands, read the following norms of SNiP 41-01-2003 "Heating, ventilation and air conditioning":

After purchasing a heating radiator, installation is carried out depending on the type of system and the connection diagram.

Types of heating systems

The level of heat supply directly depends on the type of heating system in an apartment or house. According to the pipe connection scheme, 3 types of systems can be distinguished: one-pipe, two-pipe system and using a collector.

Single pipe system

The single-pipe is mounted in such a way that the coolant enters through one pipe (successively) into each radiator, after which it returns cooled down to the boiler through it. Such a system is the easiest to install. Widely installed in multi-storey buildings. Its disadvantage is that each subsequent radiator receives an increasingly cool coolant, and heats up the room worse. There is also no possibility of local repair of one battery. If necessary, you will have to turn off the entire riser.

Two-pipe system

involves the flow of hot coolant to each radiator separately (parallel connection), one pipe at a time. Thus, they all warm up to the same temperature. And the cooled liquid enters a separate return pipe and moves to the boiler for reheating. In this case, the rules for installing heating radiators are simplified. Indeed, for replacement, it is possible to disconnect only one old radiator from the system.

Collector system

The collection system is very complex. It is intended for cottages. It assumes a large consumption of pipes, since separate pipes are connected to each battery. Only professionals can mount such a system.

Wiring diagrams

Before you install a heating radiator yourself, decide on the method of connecting it to the network. The most commonly used schemes are:

You can ask the experts how much it costs to install a heating radiator, and, possibly, agree to their services. Experienced craftsmen will tell you which connection scheme to choose, and what auxiliary elements will be needed for installation.

Mounting

Performed at any time of the year. Cannot be installed on a system with natural circulation more than twelve sections of batteries, and with artificial - more than 24. Before installation, you need to purchase tow or sealing tape, sealant, shut-off and thermostatic equipment, as well as fasteners made of the appropriate material, for example, brackets of a certain length, shackles different size. The thread size of the spurs must correspond to the dimensions of the batteries and pipes.

Since additional parts are not cheap, and the cost of installing heating radiators is also not low, hiring specialists can be problematic. In addition, this work also includes the dismantling of heating radiators, the price for which, although not high, still affects the total cost. And therefore, in any case, it is better to dismantle it yourself so as not to overpay.

To do this, first the coolant is drained from one radiator, which changes if it can be localized by closing the valves at the inlet; or from the entire one-pipe system. When doing work in apartment building you should contact the housing office so that its employees drain the water from the riser on which the replacement is being made. After that, you can remove the old radiator.

To install a heating radiator yourself, you first need to install shut-off and control equipment on it.

And also to mount the Mayevsky crane, with the help of which it will subsequently be possible to release air from the batteries. Brackets are installed on the wall, after carefully marking the place for installation. It is believed that for mounting a medium-sized radiator, you will need 2-3 brackets to hold its upper part, and 2 to fix the lower one.

Fasteners are leveled, and a battery is installed on it. If the brackets are installed correctly, it should fit snugly against the supports, not wobble. A small trifle: the heating device is installed with a small slope (0.3 cm for each meter of its length) so that the Mayevsky crane is located near the highest point. The actual installation of a heating radiator, the price of which is reduced due to self-installation, begins with the fact that the plugs are unscrewed from the battery.

If, install a bypass with a valve. With a two-pipe system, only the drive on which the valve is installed is connected. Then the drives are connected to the pipes. This requires torque wrenches. They will have to be bought, which will increase the cost of installing a heating radiator, but you cannot do without them. They will allow you not to overdo it when tightening nuts and other fasteners, since the instructions for each auxiliary element indicate the permissible torque moment.

A loose connection is also dangerous due to the possibility of leaks. Joints are sealed with tow moistened oil paint, or a special sealant. They can also be boiled. After installation, the connections need to be crimped. It will be performed by a called plumber, since buying a crimping tool is expensive. At the end of the work, you need to make a trial run of the system, and, if necessary, immediately eliminate the imperfections.

Having familiarized yourself with how to properly install heating radiators, it is worth considering whether you need to do this work yourself. If you do not have the skills to install heating appliances, it is better to hire professionals, having previously found out the prices for installing heating radiators in the locality where they will be installed.

If aluminum or are installed, leave them in the package until the installation is completed so as not to damage the surface in case of accidental impact. It is noteworthy that the installation of cast iron heating radiators also has its own characteristics. They are heavy, so they require the installation of more brackets. In addition, these details should be embedded deeper into the wall, especially if it is brick.

If the wall is made of drywall, the heavy battery is not hung on it, but mounted on special floor stands, and a pair of wall brackets is needed to prevent the structure from falling. In addition, if the device to be mounted is cast iron, then its connection to the pipes is carried out by a welding machine. That is, in this case, the installation of heating radiators by gas welding is almost always used, and this should not be neglected.

From all of the above, it follows that the installation of heating batteries can be quite simple if you initially prepare well for it and study all the instructions that come with the device. After performing all the procedures in the prescribed sequence, the heating system will be durable and will last for decades.

Knowledge of the nuances of the competent conduct of the installation process of heating radiators will provide reliable, high-quality and durable heating premises.

At self-assembly batteries, it is important to follow the installation rules and norms of SNiP.

General rules for self-installation of batteries

Applicable to all batteries, regardless of type:

• necessarily produced calculation of the amount of coolant that the battery can hold;
• water in the heating system overlaps, then, using a pump, the pipes are blown;
• mandatory presence torque wrenches;

Attention! Carry out tightening and fastening of parts on own discretion unacceptable! The circulating fluid is under pressure, so improper fastening of parts leads to unpleasant consequences.

• initially thought out and selected suitable connection option batteries;
• radiators are mounted at a certain angle to prevent the accumulation of air masses in them, otherwise they will have to be removed through an air vent;
• in private houses it is recommended to use pipes from metal-plastic, in apartments - from metal;
• the protective film from new heating devices is removed only after the installation is completed.

Do-it-yourself steps for installing a heating radiator in an apartment

Installation consists of the following steps.

Instrument preparation

You will need:

Choosing the right place

• the location of the heater is selected in the center of the window opening;

Important! The battery must cover at least 70% of the opening. The middle is marked, and from it to the right and left the lengths are laid down and marks are made for fastenings.

• gap from the floor not less than 8 cm and not more than 14 cm;
• to exclude the drop in the thermal power indicator, the battery must be located at a distance from the window sill about 11 cm;
• from the rear wall of the radiator to the wall at least 5 cm, such a distance will provide good heat convection.

More accurate indents are calculated with the perfect choice of a particular type of battery and the calculation of the number of sections.

Preparation for connection

Examine the walls for possible defects. If there gaps and crevices, they are laid cement mortar . After drying, fix the foil insulation.

The variety of wall decoration options is quite extensive.

Selecting a connection scheme

Exist 3 connection options radiators for the heating system:

• bottom way, fastening is made at the bottom of the heating source, on its different sides;
• lateral (unilateral) connection, most often used with a vertical type of wiring with entry to one side of the battery;
• diagonal the connection implies the location of the supply pipe on top of the battery, and the return pipe on the opposite side from below.

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Process description

Subsequence:

Reference! At this stage, as an additional element, you can install thermostats to control the flow rate of the coolant.

• fixing the radiator brackets;
• accession outlet and supply pipes performed by threading, welding, pressing and crimping;
• the control of the assembled system: water is supplied under low pressure to check for possible leaks and assembly defects.

How to properly install different types of radiators

In the installation of each type of battery has its own nuances.

Cast iron

The difference from the standard circuit is that for batteries of this type sections are initially formed using a radiator key.

Nipples are impregnated with drying oil and fixed by hand for 2 threads. In this case, a gasket must be used. Then the radiator keys are inserted into the nipple holes and twisted.

Important! The collection of sections must be carried out with an assistant, since simultaneous rotation of nipples may lead to distortion.

After crimping the battery, a layer of primer is applied to it and painted.

Aluminum

passes according to the standard scheme of one of three options connections.

The only caveat is that aluminum batteries are fixed both on the wall and on the floor. For last version use special clamping rings on the legs.

By adjusting the indentation of the radiator from the wall, floor and window sill, you can increase or decrease the level of heat transfer from the battery.

When installing aluminum heat sources refer to the attached instructions. If the recommendations indicate the use of a coolant, then it must be used exclusively.

Mounting the screen in front of the radiator will increase the degree of efficiency.

Such batteries are suitable for installation in private houses with autonomous heating.

Steel

Important point in connection - horizontal check batteries. Any deviation will reduce work efficiency.

In addition to wall brackets, floor stands for additional fixation.

Otherwise, standard connection schemes are used.

Bimetallic

These batteries are allowed building up or removing unnecessary sections. They are already painted. Sections are pulled together in stages from below and from above, without distortions.

Attention! In the place where the sealing gasket under the nipple is located, it is impossible to carry out stripping sandpaper or file.

As with the standard scheme, pre-treatment of the wall is required.

A heating system should be present in every home. At the same time, it is extremely important that at each stage of its installation all the rules for installing heating radiators are clearly observed - violations of any of them can lead to serious disruptions in the operation of the system and even damage the equipment.

Possible schemes for connecting radiators

Before proceeding with the process of installing heating radiators, it is extremely important to determine the connection diagram. There are several options for how to do this, this is also indicated in the snip. Each of them has both certain advantages and disadvantages. Connection methods:

• side connection. This method is perhaps the most common, since it is he who allows you to achieve maximum heat transfer from radiators. The installation principle is quite simple - the inlet pipe is connected to the upper radiator pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one. Thus, both the inlet and outlet pipes are located at one end of the battery.
• diagonal connection. This method it is used mainly for long radiators, since it allows to achieve maximum heating of the battery along the entire length. In this case, the inlet pipe should be connected to the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe to the lower one, which is located on the other side of the battery.
• bottom connection. Least effective method connection (compared to the side method, the efficiency is lower by 5-15%), used mainly for heating systems located under the floor.

Instructions for installing heating radiators

So, how to hang radiators correctly? You have purchased radiators and even decided how they will be installed. Now you need to familiarize yourself with all the requirements of SNIP - and you can proceed with the installation. In fact, everything is quite simple.

Most radiator manufacturers, trying to make life as easy as possible for users, attach detailed instructions and rules for installing heating radiators to each battery.

And they really need to be followed - after all, if the radiator is installed incorrectly, if it breaks down, warranty repairs will be denied.

If you want to protect the device from scratches, dust and other damage that may occur during installation, you can leave the protective film- this is allowed by the rules for installing heating batteries. The single most important requirement, which must be strictly followed, is the strict observance of the indents necessary for the normal circulation of heated air. Here are the rules for installing heating radiators to indents put forward by SNIP:

• according to current regulations, the distance from the window sill or the bottom of the niche should be at least 10 cm. It should be borne in mind that if the gap between the radiator and the wall is less than ¾ of the battery depth, then the flow of warm air will enter the room much worse.
• equally strict requirements are put forward for the height of the installation of radiators. How to place heating batteries correctly? So, if the distance between the lower point of the radiator and the floor level is less than 10 cm, then the outflow of warm air will be difficult - and this will negatively affect the degree of heating of the room. The ideal distance is 12 cm between the floor and the radiator. And if this gap is more than 15 cm, then there will be too much temperature difference between the upper and lower parts of the room.
• if the radiator is not installed in a niche under the window, but near the wall, then the distance between the surfaces should be at least 20 cm. If it is less, air circulation will be difficult, and in addition, dust will accumulate on the rear wall of the radiator.

To get the most useful information regarding the installation of radiators, you can use our resource. You can find many valuable advice and recommendations on how to properly install a heating radiator.

The procedure for installing a heating radiator

It should be noted that the SNIP also spelled out the procedure for installing the radiator. Using it, you can do everything correctly:

1. First of all, you need to determine the place for the fasteners. Their number depends on the size of the battery, but even in the case of mounting the smallest radiator, there must be at least three brackets;
2. Brackets are being attached. For reliability, it is necessary to use dowels or cement mortar;
3. The necessary adapters, Mayevsky crane, plugs are installed;
4. Now you can start installing the radiator itself;
5. The next step is to connect the radiator to the inlet and outlet pipes of the system;
6. Next, you need to install an air vent. According to modern SNIP, it must be automatic;
7. After correct installation heating radiators is completely finished, you can remove the protective film from the radiators.

If during installation heating radiators if you adhere to all the rules and requirements described above, then in this case you will enjoy the heat for a long time, which is provided by your correct installation of heating radiators and a well-made heating system.

Any heating system is a rather complex “organism”, in which each of the “organs” performs a strictly assigned role. And one of the most important elements are heat exchange devices - it is they who are entrusted with the ultimate task of transferring thermal energy or to the premises of the house. In this capacity, familiar radiators, convectors of open or hidden installation, gaining popularity of water floor heating systems can act - pipe circuits laid in accordance with certain rules.

You may be interested in information about what is

This article will focus on heating radiators. Let us not be distracted by their diversity, structure and specifications: on our portal on these topics - enough comprehensive information. Now we are interested in another block of questions: connecting heating radiators, wiring diagrams, installing batteries. Correct installation heat exchangers, the rational use of their technical capabilities is the key to the efficiency of the entire heating system. Even from the most expensive modern radiator there will be a low return if you do not listen to the recommendations for its installation.

What should be considered when choosing radiator piping schemes?

If you take a simplified look at most heating radiators, then their hydraulic design is a fairly simple, understandable scheme. These are two horizontal collectors, which are interconnected by vertical jumper channels through which the coolant moves. This entire system is either made of metal that provides the necessary high heat transfer (a striking example is), or is “dressed” in a special casing, the design of which involves maximum area contact with air (for example, bimetallic radiators).

1 - Upper manifold;

2 - Lower collector;

3 - Vertical channels in the radiator sections;

4 - Heat exchanger case (casing) of the radiator.

Both collectors, upper and lower, have outlets on both sides (respectively, in the diagram, the upper pair B1-B2, and the lower B3-B4). It is clear that when a radiator is connected to the pipes of the heating circuit, only two out of four outlets are connected, and the remaining two are muffled. And now, the efficiency of the installed battery largely depends on the connection scheme, that is, on the relative position of the coolant supply pipe and the outlet to the "return".

And first of all, when planning the installation of radiators, the owner must figure out exactly what kind of heating system is functioning or will be created in his house or apartment. That is, he must clearly understand where the coolant comes from and in which direction its flow is directed.

Single pipe heating system

In multi-storey buildings, a single-pipe system is most often used. In this scheme, each radiator is, as it were, inserted into the “gap” of a single pipe, through which both the coolant is supplied and its removal to the “return” side.

The coolant passes successively all the radiators installed in the riser, gradually wasting heat. It is clear that in the initial section of the riser, its temperature will always be higher - this must also be taken into account when planning the installation of radiators.

There is another important point here. Such a one-pipe system apartment building can be organized according to the principle of top and bottom feed lyre.

• On the left (item 1) the upper supply is shown - the coolant is transferred through a straight pipe to the upper point of the riser, and then sequentially passes through all the radiators on the floors. This means that the flow direction is from top to bottom.
• In order to simplify the system and save Supplies often another scheme is organized - with a bottom feed (pos. 2). In this case, radiators are installed in the same series on the pipe ascending to the upper floor, as well as on the pipe descending. This means that the direction of the coolant flow in these "branches" of one loop is reversed. Obviously, the temperature difference in the first and last radiator of such a circuit will be even more noticeable.

It is important to deal with this issue - on which pipe of such a single-pipe system your radiator is installed - the optimal tie-in scheme depends on the flow direction.

A prerequisite for piping a radiator in a single-pipe riser is a bypass

The name “bypass”, which is not entirely clear to some, refers to a jumper that connects the pipes connecting the radiator to the riser in a single-pipe system. What is needed for, what rules are followed when installing it - read in a special publication of our portal.

The single-pipe system is widely used in private one-story houses, at least for reasons of saving materials for its installation. In this case, it is easier for the owner to figure out the direction of the coolant flow, that is, from which side he will be supplied to the radiator, and from which side he will exit.

Advantages and disadvantages of a single-pipe heating system

Attracting with the simplicity of its device, such a system is still somewhat alarming due to the difficulty of ensuring uniform heating on different radiators of house wiring. What is important to know about how to mount it with your own hands - read in a separate publication of our portal.

Two-pipe system

Already on the basis of the name, it becomes clear that each of the radiators in such a scheme "relies" on two pipes - separately for supply and return.

If you look at the two-pipe wiring diagram in high-rise building, the differences are immediately visible.

It is clear that the dependence of the heating temperature on the location of the radiator in the heating system is minimized. The direction of the flow is determined only by the relative position of the branch pipes cut into the risers. The only thing you need to know is which particular riser acts as a supply, and which one is the “return” - but this, as a rule, is easily determined even by the temperature of the pipe.

Some apartment residents may be misled by the presence of two risers, in which the system will not cease to be one-pipe. Look at the illustration below:

On the left, although there seem to be two risers, a single-pipe system is shown. Just one pipe is the upper supply of coolant. But on the right - a typical case of two different risers - supply and return.

The dependence of the efficiency of the radiator on the scheme of its insertion into the system

Why was it all said. what is placed in the previous sections of the article? But the fact is that the heat transfer of the heating radiator very seriously depends on the relative position of the supply and return pipes.

Scheme of inserting a radiator into a circuit	Direction of coolant flows
Diagonal radiator connection on both sides, top inlet
Such a scheme is considered the most effective. In principle, it is she who is taken as the basis for calculating the heat transfer of a specific radiator model, that is, the battery power for such a connection is taken as a unit. The coolant, without encountering any resistance, completely passes through the upper collector, through all vertical channels, ensuring maximum heat transfer. The entire radiator warms up evenly over its entire area.
Such a scheme is one of the most common in multi-storey building heating systems, as the most compact in vertical risers. It is used on risers with an upper supply of coolant, as well as on return, descending - with a lower supply. It is quite effective for small radiators. However, if the number of sections is large, then the heating may be uneven. The kinetic energy of the flow becomes insufficient to propagate the coolant to the very end of the upper supply manifold - the liquid tends to pass along the path of least resistance, that is, through the vertical channels closest to the entrance. Therefore, in the part farthest from the input of the battery are not excluded dead zones, which will be much colder than the opposite ones. When calculating the system, it is usually assumed that even with the optimal length of the battery, its overall heat transfer efficiency is reduced by 3–5%. Well, with long radiators, such a scheme becomes inefficient or will require some optimization (this will be discussed below) /
One-way radiator connection with top inlet
A scheme similar to the previous one, and largely repeating and even reinforcing its inherent shortcomings. It is used in the same risers of single-pipe systems, but only in schemes with a bottom supply - on an ascending pipe, so the coolant is supplied from below. Losses in the total heat transfer with such a connection can be even higher - up to 20 ÷ 22%. This is due to the fact that the difference in density will also contribute to closing the movement of the coolant through the near vertical channels - the hot liquid tends upwards, and therefore it is harder to pass to the remote edge of the lower radiator supply manifold. Sometimes this is the only connection option. The losses are compensated to some extent by the fact that in the ascending pipe the general level of the coolant temperature is always higher. The circuit can be optimized by installing special devices.
Double-sided connection with bottom connection of both connections
The scheme of the lower, or as it is often called the "saddle" connection, is extremely popular in autonomous systems private houses due to the wide possibilities to hide the pipes of the heating circuit under the decorative floor surface or make them as invisible as possible. However, in terms of heat transfer, such a scheme is far from optimal, and possible efficiency losses are estimated at 10–15%. The most accessible path for the coolant in this case is the lower collector, and distribution along the vertical channels is largely due to the difference in density. As a result, the upper part of the heating battery can warm up much less than the lower one. There are certain methods and means to minimize this disadvantage.
Diagonal radiator connection on both sides, bottom inlet
Despite the apparent similarity with the first, most optimal scheme, the difference between them is very large. Efficiency losses with such a connection reach up to 20%. This is explained quite simply. The coolant has no incentives to freely penetrate to the far section of the lower radiator supply manifold - due to the difference in density, it selects the vertical channels closest to the battery inlet. As a result, with a sufficiently evenly heated top, in the lower corner opposite to the entrance, stagnation often forms, that is, the surface temperature of the battery in this area will be lower. Such a scheme is used extremely rarely in practice - it is even difficult to imagine a situation where it is absolutely necessary to resort to it, rejecting other, more optimal solutions.

The table deliberately does not mention the lower one-sided connection of the batteries. With him - the question is ambiguous, as in many radiators that suggest the possibility of such a tie-in, special adapters are provided, which essentially turn the bottom connection into one of the options discussed in the table. In addition, even for ordinary radiators, you can purchase additional equipment, in which the lower one-sided eyeliner will be structurally modified to another, more optimal option.

I must say that there are also more “exotic” tie-in schemes, for example, for high-height vertical radiators - some models from this series require a two-way connection with both connections from above. But the very design of such batteries is thought out in such a way that the heat transfer from them is maximum.

The dependence of the heat transfer efficiency of the radiator on the place of its installation in the room

In addition to the scheme for connecting radiators to the pipes of the heating circuit, the place of their installation also seriously affects the efficiency of these heat exchange devices.

First of all, certain rules for placing the radiator on the wall with respect to the adjacent structures and interior elements of the room must be observed.

The most typical location of the radiator is under the window opening. In addition to the general heat transfer, the ascending convection flow creates a kind of " thermal curtain”, preventing the free penetration of colder air from the windows.

• The radiator in this place will show maximum efficiency if its total length is about 75% of the width of the window opening. In this case, it is necessary to try to install the battery exactly in the center of the window, with a minimum deviation not exceeding 20 mm in one direction or another.
• The distance from the lower plane of the window sill (or other obstacle located on top - a shelf, a horizontal wall of a niche, etc.) should be about 100 mm. In any case, it should never be less than 75% of the depth of the radiator itself. Otherwise, an insurmountable barrier to convection currents is created, and the battery efficiency drops sharply.
• The height of the lower edge of the radiator above the floor surface should also be about 100÷120 mm. With a clearance of less than 100 mm, firstly, considerable difficulties are artificially created in carrying out regular cleaning under the battery (and this is a traditional place for the accumulation of dust carried by convection air currents). And secondly, convection itself will be difficult. At the same time, it is also completely useless to “pull up” the radiator too high, with a clearance from the floor surface of 150 mm or more, since this leads to uneven distribution of heat in the room: a pronounced cold layer may remain in the area bordering the floor surface air.
• Finally, the radiator must be at least 20 mm away from the wall with brackets. A decrease in this gap is a violation of normal air convection, and in addition, clearly visible dust marks may soon appear on the wall.

These are indicative indicators that should be followed. However, for some radiators, there are also recommendations developed by the manufacturer on the linear parameters of the installation - they are indicated in the product manuals.

It is probably unnecessary to explain that a radiator located openly on the wall will show heat transfer much higher than one that is completely or partially covered by certain interior items. Even too wide window sill can already reduce the heating efficiency by several percent. And if we take into account that many owners cannot do without thick curtains on the windows, or, for the sake of interior design, they try to cover up unsightly, nor their eyes, radiators with the help of facade decorative screens or even completely closed casings, then the calculated battery power may not enough to fully heat the room.

Heat transfer losses, depending on the installation of a heating radiator on the walls, are shown in the table below.

Illustration	The influence of the shown placement on the heat transfer of the radiator
	The radiator is located on the wall completely open, or installed under the window sill, which covers no more than 75% of the depth of the battery. In this case, both main heat transfer paths - both convection and thermal radiation - are completely preserved. Efficiency can be taken as a unit.
	A window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. For infrared radiation, this does not matter, but the convection flow is already facing a serious obstacle. Losses can be estimated at 3 ÷ 5% of the total thermal power of the battery.
	In this case, not a window sill or shelf on top, but the upper wall of a wall niche. At first glance, everything is the same, but the losses are already somewhat greater - up to 7 ÷ 8%, since part of the energy will be wasted on heating the very heat-intensive material of the wall.
	The radiator from the front is covered with a decorative screen, but the clearance for air convection is sufficient. The loss is precisely in thermal infrared radiation, which especially affects the efficiency of cast iron and bimetallic batteries. Heat transfer losses with such an installation reach 10÷12%.
	The heating radiator is covered with a decorative casing completely, from all sides. It is clear that in such a casing there are gratings or slot-like holes for air circulation, but both convection and direct thermal radiation are sharply reduced. Losses can reach up to 20 - 25% of the calculated battery power.

So, it is obvious that the owners are free to change some of the nuances of installing heating radiators in the direction of increasing the efficiency of heat transfer. However, sometimes the space is so limited that you have to put up with the existing conditions regarding both the location of the pipes of the heating circuit and the free area on the surface of the walls. Another option - the desire to hide the batteries from the eyes prevails over common sense, and the installation of screens or decorative casings is a matter already decided. This means that in any case, it will be necessary to make adjustments for the total power of the radiators in order to guarantee the required level of heating in the room. Correctly make the appropriate adjustments will help the calculator below.