How much does the outdoor unit of the air conditioner weigh. Air Conditioner Specifications

23.06.2020

It is unlikely that anyone can do without air conditioning today. private house, apartment, and shopping centers and offices. Split systems are in the greatest demand today. This is a type of air conditioner that includes outdoor (remote) and indoor units. Their coordinated work is the key to the proper functioning of the split system.

What is the outdoor unit?

Since the outdoor unit is exposed to high and low temperatures, it is subject to increased quality requirements. Its shape, resembling a rectangular parallelepiped, allows you to place a set of the following parts and assemblies inside the case.

Fan - blows the condenser that cools the freon.
Condenser - in it, freon cools down and passes from a gaseous state to a liquid one.
Compressor - an engine that pumps an increased pressure of the refrigerant, forcing it to move along the circuit (coil) of the refrigerator.
Four-way valve - they are equipped with air conditioners designed for heating and cooling modes. This part is on command from the control panel. indoor unit changes the movement of freon and, accordingly, cooling in summer for heating in the cold season.
ECU - this module is placed on outdoor units inverter air conditioners. It is they who are less sensitive to temperature fluctuations than non-inverter controlled devices.
Elbows for connecting trace pipes connecting the indoor unit with the outdoor unit. Freon flows through these pipes. Like electrical wiring with corrugation, they are protected by a box.
Retaining grille - protects the parts and components of the outdoor unit from large objects, debris and insects.
A cover that covers electrical terminals from atmospheric precipitation.

This is the minimum set of elements without which the circuit is broken, the operation of the device is impossible. The following parts may also be included in the outdoor unit.

A voltage stabilizer is a protective circuit for electronic and electromechanical elements and assemblies that are especially sensitive to voltage surges.
Visor - protects outdoor unit from precipitation, reduces icing of the hull.
A hose through which water condensate flows. Connect it to the sewer or use it for drip irrigation of nearby plantings. In winter, when heating and cooling change places, additional heating is used to prevent freezing - the condensate does not freeze with icicles on the body, but drains all.

To prevent other troubles, put on the outdoor unit:

thorns - so that birds do not sit down;
reinforcing cage (this is the anti-vandal grill) - to protect against theft, it is not necessary to install it on the balcony and above the 1st floor;
mosquito net - to prevent poplar fluff and leaves from getting inside the block.

What is it needed for?

Window air conditioners are practically yesterday's day of microclimate technology. They occupied one of the upper window openings, and the noise from the outdoor unit in the room was a common thing. Efficiency window air conditioners was much lower, and energy costs were much higher. So, outdoor unit split air conditioner (literally - a split air conditioning system) is designed to eliminate these shortcomings, namely:

move the main source of noise and heat in summer (or cold in winter) outside the building, structure, house;
significantly reduce energy consumption and increase efficiency;
simplify maintenance - do not disassemble the entire air conditioner for cleaning, washing and repair at once, but divide the work into 2 fronts.

The disadvantage of a split system is that during installation and maintenance at high altitude, the customer (and the contractor) cannot do without the help of a truck crane or climbers.

Dimensions

Individuals - owners of apartments and cottages, for example, are not chasing multi-kilowatt power. If you do not create "autumn cold" in the room from 17 degrees, then a temperature of 21-24 degrees in summer is considered relatively normal for most people. The air conditioner power up to 2.7 kW is taken into account. Then the average height of the outdoor unit will be only half a meter. Block width - up to 0.7 m, depth - up to 0.4, taking into account the removal of the device on suspensions with a distance of up to 10 cm from the wall. 5 cm, however, each manufacturer changes these figures down. The weight of the outdoor unit assembly is 12-25 kg.

The smallest air conditioner is Ballu BSWI-09HN1. The model is not devoid of the main blocks and assemblies necessary for high-quality cooling of the air inside the house. It is suitable for a room up to 16 m2 in size, consumes only 900 W when the compressor is running, maintains a temperature of 21-23 degrees in the summer, even if it is 35 degrees outside the window. The dimensions of the outdoor unit are 70 * 28.5 * 18.8 cm. The unit is compact, it weighs a little more than a vacuum cleaner. You will hardly find a split system smaller and lighter. It makes no sense to produce external units of a split system smaller than a postal parcel. Air microconditioning is already the lot of do-it-yourselfers-experimenters, although the technologies have been worked out.

Where to install?

If you live (or work) on the first floor, then the installation height from the ground is at least 2 m. This will help to avoid damage or theft of the unit. Be sure to install the outdoor unit in a welded reinforcing cage with thick (from 1.5 cm) rods. The cage itself must be locked with a massive lock with an anti-burglary mechanism. Its door must have reinforced hinges. On the second and subsequent floors, it is not necessary to lock the block “behind bars”.

On the top floor, in order not to call climbers or a truck crane (both of which take hourly pay for work), some firms put external units on the edge of the roof. The maximum length of the “route” (each of the pipes) for the refrigerant is 20 m. A larger height difference between the outdoor and indoor units wears out the compressor significantly. He spends additional energy to overcome the force of gravity acting on the height of the column of liquefied freon.

As a result, the cold received in summer (or heat in winter) will be insufficient, not corresponding to the value declared by the manufacturer. Or the air conditioner will immediately give an alarm after starting. best way out- the location of the outdoor and indoor unit at the same height. In a private house, the outdoor unit is often placed on the facade of the building. This applies to air conditioners of any kind, including the wall-mounted indoor unit.

Installation rules

Without observing the following rules, work installed air conditioner may be significantly more difficult or even impossible.

Brackets and brackets are placed with a margin of safety up to several times greater than the strength required for hanging the outdoor unit. Ideally, both mounts in total should support the weight of a person.
The load-bearing wall must be strong and sufficiently smooth. uneven walls with old plaster and loose blocks and bricks from which masonry was carried out are excluded. Otherwise, the hung device may fall and injure someone bystanders.
On facades with a porous finish, for example, composite soffits on foam, the fasteners are not mounted on the finish itself, but are drilled and cut into the wall (plaster, bricks). This will give the suspended structure the necessary strength and stability. You can use a basket - a ready-made lattice structure, into which the external unit is lowered before connecting to the internal and mains voltage.
You can not put the external unit of the air conditioner close to the wall - this will not let it natural ventilation from the wind. The distance between the rear wall of the outdoor unit and the wall finish is at least 0.1 m.
The service technician or owner of the air conditioner must have easy access to the outdoor unit. Mount the device so that it becomes possible to quickly clean it, quickly replace worn parts and assemblies.
Do not hang the outdoor unit vertically or skewed to either side. Its horizontalness is set strictly according to the level - this is necessary for the uninterrupted circulation of freon in both directions.
The installation site can serve as a balcony or loggia, not closed with double-glazed windows. The glazed space will create a locked chamber, where the temperature will soon reach 55 degrees, and the air conditioner will stop working - the heat must go somewhere.

The placement of communications is also not contrary to the following rules.

The maximum distance between the external and internal blocks can reach 30 m. However, there is a risk of completely losing all the beneficial effect: while the cooled freon passes these 30 m, it will heat up almost to its original temperature. The compressor will run continuously, which can cause it to wear out quickly. Modern split systems that have protection based on a self-diagnostic module, after useless operation for several minutes, having found that the temperature in the room has not dropped a single degree, simply turn off the power to the compressor and fans of the indoor and outdoor units. The optimum distance is 5 m each of both pipes, then the losses are small.
Copper pipes must be sealed and thermally insulated.
In the absence of a fine finish, it is advisable to hide the track in the wall. Otherwise, put it in a box. But access to pipe and electrical connections must be present.
It is not allowed to sharply bend the pipes - this will make it difficult for the passage of freon.
It is advisable to draw a separate line for the air conditioner with a fuse.
Lead the hose to drain the condensed water into the sewer. The drain pipeline is recommended to be carried out separately in the walls.
It is recommended not only to run engineering communications into the wall, but to pass them through a special cup holder - from the outside.
Freon pipelines, electric cable and drain hose hide in foam tubes. Then protect them with vinyl tape.
Before pumping freon using a vacuum pump, evacuation is carried out. It will remove the remaining air and prevent freon from turning into exhaust gases, the benefits of which are less. In addition, the tubes are vacuum protected against corrosion.

The delivery of the installed air conditioner is preceded by a test run and checking the device for freon leakage. No less important indicators are the constant pressure of freon and the regularity of condensate removal.

These rules are easy to apply - they are dictated by common sense and are easy to remember.

It is forbidden to push foreign objects through the bars of the cage of the external unit, as well as through the curtains of the internal one. Keep children away from the operating device.
Check that room temperature maintenance is on 21-26 degrees. A lower temperature during the heat period can bring a healthy person to a cold - going outside after spending many hours in the cold represents temperature fluctuations of 10 or more degrees, as during a sharp change in the weather in the off-season.
Do not operate the air conditioner with the windows open. Modern technology prevents overheating of the compressor and useless operation of the fans, if the temperature in the room after switching on has not dropped even by a few tenths of a degree. But not all models are equipped with such a “smart” function - it simply does not exist in low-budget models of air conditioners. The device will work absolutely to no avail, like an old Soviet refrigerator, in which the compressor does not turn off around the clock. As a result, all air conditioner motors will fail before the warranty period expires.
Shade the window on a bright sunny day - excess daylight does not allow the indoor unit to adequately perceive the signal from the infrared LED of the remote control. This or that command works every other time - you need to bring the remote control too close to the air conditioner for it to pass.
Do not use the air conditioner, for example, in the bathroom - excess vapor turns into excess condensate in the indoor unit, contributing to clogging of the drain and filters.
Regularly turn on the air conditioner purely in fan mode - this will blow out excess condensate.
Clean the indoor unit filters every 2 weeks. It is advisable to wash the outdoor unit at least once every 1-2 months.
Do not place heaters and heaters near the indoor unit. The minimum distance is 1 m.
Provide the right protection air conditioner from sources of interference. The indoor unit should not be closely adjacent to devices that use radio signals to transmit data and cellular communication. So, do not install nearby 3G / 4G modems, routers or Wi-Fi repeaters, system unit home PC, etc. As for the external unit, it is forbidden to place it, for example, near a cell tower and radio relay equipment, if they are standing side by side on the roof - their signal strength is tens of times greater than the radiated power of a smartphone or tablet. Interference from them can reach the processor of the indoor unit and interfere with its operation - especially when the processor clock frequency matches the side frequencies that are present in abundance near any antenna.

Basic requirements for brackets for installing the outdoor unit of the air conditioner:

The bracket must be strong but not heavy and support the weight of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. And also it must fit the diameter of the holes.
Depending on the weight of the equipment, the brackets must have an appropriate safety margin. The minimum allowable figure is twice the weight of the outdoor unit itself.
Meet the requirements of GOST for climate technology. The material must withstand any temperature regime and have anti-corrosion and anti-oxidation coating.

Outdoor unit mounted on rectangular brackets

Recently, an increasing number of manufacturers have resorted to the manufacture of stainless steel brackets, due to the susceptibility of metal to corrosion from water on their surface.

The most common types of brackets used in the installation of air conditioners

Air conditioning contracting companies use several types of brackets. Among them are the following:

Right angle fasteners made of welded together rectangular metal corners 2-2.5 mm thick

Rectangular brackets

Brackets of this type are characterized by ease of manufacture, which is why they are cheaper than their thicker and more durable counterparts. However, this type of fastening is not quite reliable and suitable for long-term operation, since it has a rather small margin of safety. When vibrating, it experiences a strong load, which can damage the protective seam. When the anti-corrosion coating begins to diverge, the brackets will become vulnerable to the harmful effects of water and other particles that can compromise the integrity metal structure.

U-shaped metal fasteners connected to each other. Like the previous sample, they have a right angle of 90 degrees. The thickness of the material is 2-2.5 mm and is fastened with special bolts.

This design is more expensive than conventional rectangular brackets, but it is more reliable. Vibration extends only to the connecting element, while the load on the remaining parts of the structure remains minimal. At the same time, galvanized bolts are not subject to corrosion and oxidation. The coating of the brackets reliably resists the harmful effects of moisture and other atmospheric particles.

U-shaped metal structure with an elongated body, fastened from below with an additional section of the channel. The thickness of the metal elements is 2 mm.

In appearance, this design seems to be the most reliable of all presented. Despite the small thickness of the metal elements, the structures successfully withstand blocks of almost any weight. They do not deform under constant vibration, which guarantees a long service life of the brackets. The coating reliably protects the structure from negative atmospheric influences, preventing deformation, corrosion and oxidative processes in the metal.

Rectangular design of two straight metal corners 2-2.5 mm thick

This type of brackets almost completely copies the first sample. The difference between them is that here both corners are fastened together by a connecting metal bar, which significantly strengthens the brackets, allowing them to withstand blocks of almost any weight. All elements are connected to each other with bolts. The bar facilitates the load on the fasteners, and the coating reliably prevents the occurrence of corrosion and oxidative processes due to the negative effects of moisture and precipitation. The connecting plate greatly simplifies the mounting of the brackets.

All of the above samples of almost any outdoor unit. The size of air conditioner brackets is traditionally about 40 centimeters long for the vertical mounting sections.

The choice of bracket for mounting the external unit of the air conditioner should be approached as responsibly as possible. First of all, make sure that the load capacity of the bracket is twice the weight of the outdoor unit. This is necessary because the ice that periodically covers the block significantly increases the weight of the equipment.

The holes on the fasteners must match the bolts and other fixtures for attaching the brackets. It is strongly not recommended to drill additional holes: this can damage the protective layer of the elements, as well as reduce their load capacity, which will accelerate corrosion and oxidation processes as a result negative impact moisture and precipitation. But it is also fraught with a warp or collapse of the entire structure under the weight of the weight of the external unit of the air conditioner.

And also pay attention to the anti-corrosion coating. The traditionally used enamel, although it reliably protects the metal from the negative effects of moisture and precipitation, loses its properties after a year and a half, which can contribute to the deformation and corrosion of the metal structure. A polymer coating is more reliable: it penetrates deeper into the material and better protects the metal from corrosion.

Among all anti-corrosion agents, metal galvanizing is recognized as the best. Specialists guarantee that galvanized brackets will last at least ten years. The split system itself can last about the same.

Above, we have analyzed what types of brackets are and what are their main advantages. To purchase a high-quality bracket and not to miscalculate with a choice, a few practical tips will help:

When purchasing brackets yourself, do not forget to make sure that the product itself is certified. By law, the seller is required to provide relevant documents. If the product is not certified, it is better to refrain from purchasing it - there is a possibility of counterfeit or poor-quality processing. In this case, the reliability of fixation is significantly reduced, which can lead to the collapse of the structure itself and the external unit installed on it.
Fasteners must correspond in area to the length and width of the installed unit. The maximum allowable load should be twice the mass of the block itself, which will protect the brackets from collapse when ice forms on the block itself
Among all the same products, focus on value for money. If the unit is quite light and the vibration level is low, then regular rectangular brackets will work for you. For heavier blocks, a U-shaped structure reinforced from below is useful. Here you can be helped by a sales assistant who will tell you which type of bracket is more suitable for your air conditioner.
The simpler the product, the easier it is to install and the stronger it is. If you install the bracket yourself, then a rectangular bracket is suitable for you, whose sections are fastened together with a metal bar. Such brackets are best suited for those who place brackets alone.

Thus, almost any brackets are suitable for the outdoor unit. The higher the allowable load level, the more reliable the structure itself. With proper operation, the fasteners will serve you for at least ten years, which is comparable to the life of the split systems themselves.

Which brackets for mounting the outdoor unit of the air conditioner do you prefer?

Today, to maintain a favorable microclimate in the premises, split systems are popular. They consist of two parts: external and internal block. The outdoor unit of the air conditioner has key value for the quality of the equipment. We will understand its device, principles of operation and features of installation and maintenance.

Equipment device

The external unit of the split system is called the compressor and condenser unit (KKB). This is key element climatic equipment that provides cooling or heating by changing the state of the refrigerant (working substance). KKB is a building that houses:

compressor;
condenser (heat exchanger);
expansion coils;
capillary tubes;
4 way valve;
filter dryer (receiver);
fan.

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner is connected to the equipment in the room through a system of freon (heat-insulating copper) lines. A drainage line runs from the indoor unit to the outdoor unit.

The KKB case is made of galvanized steel.

Equipment features

A number of KKB models are equipped with a special "winter kit". It is designed to keep the instrument in good working order. winter time years at low temperatures. The winter kit works only for cooling, so it is best suited for installation in server rooms and other rooms with high level heat dissipation.

It includes the following elements:

The fan control controller turns off the ventilation and turns it on when the condenser heats up.
Heated drain pipe.
Compressor crankcase heating before start.

The general principle of operation of a split system can be described as follows: warm air is removed from the room and removed to the street, cooled air is supplied in the opposite direction, which loses temperature, passing through the air conditioner and in contact with the refrigerant.

When switching the split system mode to heating, the reverse process occurs. The outdoor unit absorbs cold air from the outside and raises the temperature to the desired level. The indoor unit delivers heated air into the room.

KKB works due to the physical properties of the refrigerant, which transfers energy when the state of aggregation changes.

The outdoor unit of the air conditioner works as follows:

From the container, the compressor is supplied with a working substance in a gaseous state.
From the compressor under high pressure, the refrigerant enters the condenser, where it turns into a liquid, giving off heat.
Having lost some of the energy, freon enters the highway.
From the line, the working substance passes into the throttling device, where it loses pressure and cools.
Cold liquid is transferred to the evaporator, where it actively circulates through the tubes.
The evaporator is blown with warm supply air by means of a fan.
Cold air is supplied to the room.
Warm supply air heats the heat exchanger, passing through it before being fed into the room.
From the heat exchanger, the refrigerant is heated, which turns into a gas.
Freon, passing into a gaseous state, gives the air cold. From the heat exchanger, the gaseous refrigerant enters the compressor again, where the process is repeated.
A closed cycle of work is created.

Main settings

When choosing and buying an external unit of a split system, you need to pay attention to four main characteristics:

Size, height, width, length.
Power.
Line length.

Dimensional dimensions of external units depend on the power and functionality of the equipment.

Average dimensional characteristics of the outdoor unit of the split system:

width 80 cm;
height 50 cm;
thickness 30 cm.

Models that are offered on the market may have different capacities. It all depends on the purpose of the equipment. A standard household split system has a capacity that allows you to cover a space of up to 100 square meters. m.

An important characteristic of the outdoor unit is noise. If the air conditioner in the room works without noise, then the external unit can cause significant inconvenience to the neighbors. When choosing a model, it is better to clarify the indicator of the noise produced during the operation of the external unit. Permissible indicator 32 dB.

It is necessary to pay attention to the permissible length of the connecting lines between the blocks.

Do not exceed the distance that is stated in the technical data sheet of the model, as this can lead to a serious decrease in the efficiency of the equipment.

Installing an outdoor unit involves several steps. At the first stage, the installation site is determined, equipment and tools are prepared. At the second stage, the marking and direct fixation of the equipment is performed. At the third stage, performance verification and testing activities are carried out.

Location selection

Structures of modern buildings ( apartment buildings, shopping and office centers) provide for the installation of air conditioners and split systems. This moment is laid down during the design. Special boxes are mounted on the facades of buildings. They solve two key problems. First, it minimizes the likelihood that fasteners will be poorly made. Secondly, the boxes are harmoniously built into the design of the building and do not spoil its appearance.

If there are no boxes in the building, then the choice of location must be made taking into account the following factors.

General rules for choosing a place for an air conditioner:

The block is mounted on the wall adjacent to the apartment. You can not fix the device on the "territory of neighbors". Before starting work, it is necessary to clarify the possibility of installing air conditioners on the facade of the building. The city authorities may issue a decree according to which such work is prohibited, because it spoils the historical or cultural appearance of the building. There may be other reasons for the ban.
The optimal mounting locations are the space under the window, slightly below the window sill, and the place to the side of the window. This position will make it easier installation work and allow for easy maintenance.
If it is impossible to mount the block on the facade, you can install it inside an open balcony or loggia.

Mounting tool

Before starting work, be sure to prepare a set of tools. To install an outdoor unit, you will need:

perforator;
a drill for drilling a hole in the wall through which the highway will be laid;
drills for making holes for fixing brackets;
vacuum pump, which removes moisture and air from the freon circuit;
gauge manifold for connecting the refrigerant cylinder to the container in the unit;
a set of rolls that are needed for rolling copper tubes when connected to air conditioner valves;
pipe cutter for cutting copper pipes;
pipe bender for forming bends on tubes;
standard set wrenches, hexagons, screwdrivers, wire cutters, level gauge.

When installing, be sure to consider the following rules:

Availability of income fresh air. It is impossible to mount the outdoor unit in a closed space without air access and or with its limited supply (glazed loggia). Such an error will lead to overheating and breakdown of the KKB.
During operation, you will periodically have to change the refrigerant. To do this, the valves must be located so that the master can freely and without risk replace them. For most models, the valve is located on the left side.
It is necessary to provide for competent drainage of condensate so that it does not fall on the walls, visor or sidewalk.
Fasteners must be mounted on supporting structures, which must be designed for a load of several tens of kilograms. You can not fix the brackets on the walls of aerated concrete, on the external decorative facing layer or on the insulation layer.
The distance from the wall to the unit should be at least 10 cm. This distance will allow ventilation and reduce the risk of overheating of the device. The distance from the wall to the inner wall of the unit must not be too large. It is impossible for direct sunlight to fall on the hidden wall of the block.
When laying connecting lines, avoid a large number bends, because they will lead to a decrease in the required refrigerant flow, this will reduce the efficiency of the air conditioner.
It is recommended to equip a cornice that will protect the outdoor unit of the air conditioner from direct moisture.

Mounting to the wall is carried out using special brackets, which are usually included in the package. It has the form of a profile of various sections, bent at an angle of 90 degrees. It has several holes: one for fixing to the wall, the other for mounting the unit. Load bearing capacity brackets exceeds the weight of the air conditioner several times, so their use will ensure safety and reliability.

Installation process

Step-by-step instructions for installing an external air conditioner unit:

The location of the block on the wall, holes and channels for trunk lines are marked. The key parameters mentioned above are taken into account.
Holes are made in the wall for brackets.
A hole is made in the wall for communications. A box is laid in the hole, in which a freon and drainage line, electrical wiring are laid.
Brackets are attached. For their fixation, anchor bolts or dowels with "capercaillie" are used. The block is mounted on the brackets. It is fixed with bolts.
Strength, reliability and stability are tested.
Freon tubes are chamfered and flared. Tubes are connected to the block.
There are wires in the KKB. Their optimal length is measured, they are stripped and connected to the terminal block. The connection of each wire is made in accordance with electric circuit, which must be attached to technical passport devices.
After installing the indoor unit, a vacuum pump is connected to the KKB, with the help of which air is dried and evacuated from the lines and internal elements of the unit.
A protective box is put on.
The refrigerant tank is filled with freon. A test launch of the equipment is carried out, the modes and correct operation are checked.

Breakdowns and malfunctions

Like any other appliance, the outdoor unit of the air conditioner can break down. At low temperatures in winter, the use of an air conditioner without a winter kit can lead to compressor failure. The external block under the influence of external natural factors is strongly cooled and freezes over. Under such conditions, freon cannot boil in the outdoor unit. Liquid refrigerant enters the compressor, which leads to its breakdown.

To avoid damage to the compressor from freezing of the outdoor unit, you should install a winter kit or use the device in accordance with the technical instructions: heat the room only in autumn and spring at positive temperatures outside.

Another possible view mechanical breakdowns - failure of the fan, which pumps air into the unit. The cause of premature wear of the fan may be the ingress of dirt and dust into the unit.

Malfunctions in the electronics are associated with the failure of the control and regulation boards. There may be problems with the integrity of electrical networks.

Maintenance and care

In normal operation, the outdoor unit requires a preventive maintenance inspection once every 6 months. The master inspects the fixtures, checks the integrity and level of contamination of the filters, specifies the amount of refrigerant and measures the operating pressure of the networks.

The greatest difficulty in maintenance is the replacement of the working fluid.

The refrigerant is a chemical substance that poses a health hazard, so it is worth trusting a professional craftsman to work with it. You can check the condition of the filters, remove dust and dirt yourself.

Greetings to all visitors to the Conditioner site! There are situations when you need to know the dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner. This question arises when the placement of the block is planned in confined space. Sometimes these dimensions play a decisive role in the choice.

It happens that in the allocated space there is not enough space for the free arrangement of blocks. Then you have to choose another installation location or, for example, replace two external units with one (this will already be a multi-split system).

On the Internet, for a specific model of air conditioner, you will find characteristics, where dimensions blocks. But if you have not yet decided on a specific model, then you will need to know at least the approximate dimensions. Today we will try to determine the average dimensions of the outdoor unit, focusing on the characteristics household wall-mounted split systems.

What determines the dimensions of the outdoor unit

The dimensions of the block body, of course, are determined by the dimensions of the constituent parts. The largest parts of the outdoor unit are the condenser (radiator) and. The size of the blocks depends on their performance. The more powerful the air conditioner, the greater the “opportunities” and dimensions should have its main components.

It's no secret that air conditioners come in different cooling capacities. In most cases, there is a direct relationship between the cooling capacity and the dimensions of the unit (especially one line). But when comparing different brands or models, different numbers can turn out!

Of course, the more powerful the air conditioner, the larger its parts, the larger the dimensions of the blocks. But now there are "splits" with overestimated characteristics. To reduce the price, they are assembled from budget components, which hardly provide the declared cooling capacity. Including for this reason, different brands can have significantly different dimensions with the same power.

Dimensions of the outdoor unit of the air conditioner

If we consider the performance of the “split” up to 2.7 kW, then the height of the external unit will be approximately 42-60 cm. On average, this figure will have a value of about 50 cm You may need the height of the "foot" of the bracket - usually 7 cm.

Width (without “protruding” cranes) is usually 66-80 cm. Considering my experience, I suggest taking a distance of 70 cm The depth of small air conditioners is usually 23-30 cm.

Thus, we got the approximate dimensions of the external unit:

height 50 cm;
width 70 cm (note that the service taps "protrude" beyond the body by an additional 6 cm);
depth 27 cm.

I will supplement these figures with the distance between the outer block and the wall of the building - an average of 15 cm. Given this indent, the outer block will be located at a distance of 42 cm from the wall (cladding) of the house.

For clarity, we present the average dimensions of external blocks for domestic air conditioners in the form of a table.

Focusing on these figures, do not forget about the variety of climate technology. If you have limited space for the outdoor unit, then before buying a device, still check the dimensions for a specific model of air conditioner.

Additional questions can be asked in the comments!