A broken fan should not be thrown away immediately, it would be most reasonable to figure out the reasons and, if possible, repair the device. Often fan malfunctions are not related to breakdowns, but simply require banal cleaning and lubrication.

Some species mechanical damage you can fix it yourself by replacing the failed part. More difficult to repair floor or desktop models with more complex design. Since fans are included in most modern refrigeration and air conditioning appliances, each case is individual. We will consider only the most common causes of breakdowns and how to eliminate them.

Breakdowns of household floor fans

The approach to repairing floor or table fans should be rational. The presence of blocks for adjusting the speed, tilt and rotation of the fan greatly complicate the design. The main task is to identify the cause. If the problem is simple, then you can try to repair it yourself.

The fan is noisy but the blades are not spinning

The most common failure of floor fans is when the device makes noise, but the blades remain motionless.

The reasons may be as follows.

1. Bearing grease has dried or thickened. Finding the cause is easy. The engine is disassembled and the presence and condition of the lubricant is checked.
2. The mounting of the bearings on the shaft has shifted. This is due to the development of the resource of the bushings, which are made of bronze or brass.
3. Motor failure. To check, it is necessary to disassemble the engine and check the resistance on the windings of the body and armature.
4. Capacitance loss due to capacitor failure. It is necessary to check the capacitance of the capacitor with a tester.

If the cause is lubrication, you need to remove the remnants of thickened grease by cleaning the parts with gasoline, and pour fresh machine oil into the bushings. Be careful not to get oil on the motor windings.

fan motor

In the case of bushings, you need to look for new ones in the store or take them from another non-working device. It will not be possible to restore worn out ones.

If the motor winding is broken, you will have to rewind in the workshop or buy a new motor. It is difficult to restore the winding on your own.

In the event of a capacitor malfunction, it must be replaced with a new one from the store. If this is not possible, then it is easier to purchase a new fan.

The fan makes whistling sounds

Whistling sounds may appear a few months after purchase. Fan buzzing or squeaks due to propeller warping or sleeve bearing loose fasteners. Exposure of the blades to direct sunlight or high temperatures leads to bending and imbalance, at the moment of rotation. Similar sounds are also caused by indentation as a result of mechanical damage to the protective grid, to the surface of which the tips of the blades begin to reach.

Bearing failure

When extraneous noise appears, do the following:

• disconnect the device from the mains;
• remove the protective grille, inspect it for deformations;
• remove the propeller, inspect the blades for possible bends;
• inspect the bearing fasteners, check whether the bolts are tightened.

The curvature of the protective grille can be easily corrected by carefully straightening it with your hands to the desired state.

Note! In the event of a violation of the geometry of the blades, the propeller will most likely have to be replaced, since it is impossible to give polyurethane its original shape at home.

If the loosening of the fasteners became the cause of extraneous sounds, then you just need to tighten all the bolts until the backlash is eliminated.

The device does not turn on

If the fan does not respond to pressing the power button, it may indicate a broken wire in the cable, a damaged connection between the cable and the terminals in the socket, or a malfunction of the socket itself. The button block or the speed change buttons themselves may also be damaged.

First of all, you need to check whether the control lamp lights up when you try to turn on the device.

If the light is off, do the following:

• measure the voltage in the outlet by connecting a working device to it;
• unscrew the plug and check for damage at the points where the wires are connected to the terminals;
• disconnect the cable and check it with a tester for the passage of current.

In case of a violation in the plug, it is necessary to restore the wire connection, it is possible to solder the terminals. If a fault occurs in the wires inside the cable, it should be replaced with a new one.

Checking contacts with a tester

If the light comes on, but the fan itself does not work, the following steps should be taken:

• make sure that the device is disconnected from the network;
• disassemble the control panel, which is located on the fan housing;
• check with a tester all the contacts of the keys for the presence of current conductivity;
• check the speed controller with a tester.

If one of the buttons is found to be broken, you should either purchase a working replacement from the radio store, or connect directly, bypassing it. If the speed controller fails, it must be soldered, or also replaced with a new one.

Fan does not turn

The reason why the fan does not turn left and right is because the crank is not working properly.

To fix the breakdown, do the following:

• remove the back cover by unscrewing the fixing bolts;
• check the connection of the crank with the gear under the gearbox;
• put the crank in place, or replace if it is broken.

Also, a situation may arise when the turns are not carried out to the end. In this case, it is necessary to check the travel of the gearbox switch along the vertical axis. In case of violations in its operation, it is necessary to disconnect the fixing bolt and lubricate the shaft, gear and upper part of the gearbox. If the plastic gear is worn out, and the part could not be found on sale, then you will have to come to terms with the fact that the fan does not rotate.

Correct gear wheel

When installing the impeller after troubleshooting, you must follow the balancing rules, otherwise the fan will not spin in normal mode. The simplest and most convenient way is static balancing.

Manually install the fan, set the initial rotation by hand and mark the top point of the impeller with a pencil or marker. They make a few more runs and check if the obtained overweight points coincide with the initial mark. If they do not match, then there is a malfunction in the bearings that need to be lubricated or replaced. If they match, take objects with different weights, such as nuts, pieces of electrodes, etc. For fasteners use electrical tape, adhesive tape, mastic, plasticine, thin wire.

Then they begin to attach them as a counterweight to the point of excess in order to achieve the loss of its permanent place. For a more accurate selection, you can grind the loads with a hacksaw. After finding the optimal weight, the weight is welded or glued to the non-working side of the disc.

Balancing with screws allows you to quickly determine the required settings by experience. But this option is not available on all fans.

It is also possible to perform balancing on balancing goats by contacting specialists.

Possible breakdowns of Timberk fans

Timberk fans have proven to be inexpensive and easy-to-use devices for creating comfortable climatic conditions, maintaining air exchange in an apartment or office. Despite the good quality, they are prone to breakage.

Fan Timberk

During operation, customers noticed the following malfunctions:

• drop in blowing force due to soft plastic blades;
• there are times when a capacitor fails;
• the appearance of extraneous noise during operation;
• breakdown of the electric motor;
• the rotor breaks;
• there is a strong backlash;
• at long work there is a smell of burnt oil;
• the legs bend and change geometry under the weight of the motor;
• overheating of the power supply;
• mechanical failures at the attachment points.

In terms of price-quality ratio, Timberk products are leaders in their segment. All devices have a manufacturer's warranty and can be replaced when contacting the service.

Fan failures in car cooling systems

The fan is turned on by a sensor located in the cooling system. Reacting to the signal, the cooler (cooler) turns on and directs an additional air flow to reduce the temperature of the liquid and motor. A number of failures are not associated with breakdowns of the fan itself, but with the operation of electronic sensors that are sensitive to changes in the system.

Fan relay clicks frequently

Often clicks the fan relay in automotive cooling systems. The reason may be both the oxidation of the relay contacts, and temperature fluctuations that cause it to operate. The following are being diagnosed:

• sensor;
• wiring;
• circuit at the controller to control the fan.

A breakdown can cause damage to the engine, as incorrect operation of the sensors causes an incorrect setting of the ignition timing.

Cooling fan

First of all, you need to call in for diagnostics and ring the nodes with a scanner. If a damaged segment is found, it must be replaced by installing a new one.

Frequent turning on of the cooling fan

The cooling fan comes on frequently. It is normal for the fan to idle for more than the duration of its operation. If this algorithm is violated, the reasons may be the following:

• clogging of the cooling system;
• lowering the level of coolant in the radiator;
• the thermostat is faulty;
• the pump does not work;
• the presence of air pockets.

Clogged cooling system

It is necessary to flush the thermostat and radiator, add coolant, check the operation of the water pump and replace it if necessary. Air plugs in the radiator are expelled by applying pressure of compressed gas. If the sensor malfunctions, if the temperature of its inclusion does not match the passport indicators, it is necessary to replace the device.

Air conditioner fan not working

The reasons why it does not work may be the following:

• the clutch on the main fan is faulty;
• the relay contacts of the switches are oxidized;
• fuses blown;
• power supply terminals are oxidized;
• insufficient level of refrigerants;
• armature brushes oxidized.

Air conditioning fan repair

It is better to call an electrician in a service so that he examines the condition of the air conditioner with a multimeter and finds out the cause of the breakdown.

Reduced fan start temperature

In the hot season, the factory settings of the fan switch-on relay do not allow the car to be fully operated. In traffic jams, the engine can begin to boil, which leads to more serious damage.

ECU flashing

In order to reduce the temperature at which the fan turns on, you can use the following methods:

• reflash the ECU settings when visiting the service;
• pour antifreeze with a higher boiling point, for example, 120 degrees;
• check the pressure level and tightness of the tank cap;
• put a trip computer with the ability to adjust the fan switch-on temperature or a forced switch-on button.

Lower temperatures will allow the fan to start earlier, which will have a positive effect on engine performance.

Random fan activation

The radiator fan should turn on when the engine temperature is high to cool it down. However, sometimes the device turns on randomly, despite the fact that the thermostat sensor shows comfortable temperature at 25-35 degrees.

Clogged air filter

The reasons for this may be the following:

• low-quality fuel, additives in which reduce the flash point in the engine;
• insufficient level of antifreeze;
• clogged air filter;
• climate control included;
• cooler thermostat failed.

If you suspect low-quality fuel, you need to measure the temperature of the exhaust gases. A heavily contaminated radiator is washed with plain water from a hose.

On a note! It is normal for the fan to always turn on when the air conditioner is running.

You should call in for diagnostics, check the performance of the thermostat. Add or replace antifreeze if necessary.

Malfunctions of ventilation in apartments

Exhaust built-in fans are much simpler in terms of design. But their cost is low and it is often easier to buy a new one than to look for parts that have disappeared from circulation. Poor ventilation of the premises may not be due to the operation of the device itself, but to errors in the organization of the exhaust system.

Ventilation in the bathroom

If the ventilation in the bathroom is not working, the air becomes humid and not ventilated, the laundry does not dry well, mold may appear.

Normal ventilation pattern

The reasons may be the following:

• the ventilation hole is clogged with dust and cobwebs;
• foreign objects in the mine;
• the exhaust fan is set to draw air instead of exhaust.

The correct solution to the problem would be to contact management company. Specialists lower a load into the ventilation shaft all the way to the apartment in order to break through all the obstacles. In particular advanced cases a camera is lowered into the shaft to locate obstacles. The ventilation shaft is opened from the side of the entrance. You may need to go around the neighbors in the riser and check if they have improperly installed fans that interfere with the hood.

Advice! An exhaust is suitable for the bathroom, which prevents air from entering the ventilation shaft.

Hood in the kitchen

Exhaust ventilation is designed to remove from the apartment unpleasant odors and stale air. However, if the construction technology is violated or due to other reasons, air begins to enter the apartment from the exhaust opening, despite the fan running.

Air shaft contamination

Because of this, extraneous odors appear in the apartment. Cooking products are not removed from the kitchen.
The reasons may be the following:

• defects in the design of ventilation shafts and channels create reverse thrust;
• strong gusts of wind in one direction blow air currents into the mine;
• accumulation of steam masses and frosty air in ventilation;
• pollution of the mine with snow and waste.

As a result, the axial fan draws air masses from one shaft to another and the hood starts to work silently in the opposite direction.

To solve the shortcomings, it is better to invite specialists. They will evaluate the rationality of using the equipment in accordance with the documentation and conduct a high-quality examination of the installation and operation. ventilation system. All deficiencies will be indicated in the received report. existing system and measures to correct them. Employees of the Criminal Code are required to clean the ventilation shafts from foreign objects. Also, to get rid of the effect of reverse draft in the hood, a deflector is installed to suck in smoke and create through air flows in the kitchen.

In the hottest summer days, the only salvation from the languishing heat is an ordinary floor fan.

Not everyone can afford a full-fledged split system or at least a mobile air conditioner.

But unfortunately, even this inexpensive and affordable wind blower breaks down from time to time. Chinese models especially fly like seeds.

And they are in our market the vast majority. What to do if the fan stops rotating and working? What are his main sores and why does he break down?

Let's take a closer look.

Why is the fan not working?

In total, there are 5 main reasons for the failure of floor fans:

• old dried grease or lack of it

• dry condenser

• blown thermal relay or fuse

• winding short circuit or wire breakage

• mechanical displacement of the motor shaft

The main problem of cheap models, which for some reason few people pay attention to, is the incorrect casting of the blades. Because of this, an imbalance occurs, bearings break, gaps increase.

You cannot influence this in any way, since you have already bought a fan with such an initial defect. Sometimes it seems to work, the impeller rotates normally, but it does not blow.

That is, there is no cooling air flow from it. Why is this happening?

Due to the wrong angle of attack of the blades. Its petals are deformed and drive the air flow in a circle, and do not throw it out.

This effect may appear over time, after the fan has been standing under the direct rays of the sun for a long time and its impeller, having warmed up, began to gradually change its shape.

It is treated only by replacing the impeller with a new one.

Floor fan not spinning

The most common problem is dried grease or lack of it. The fan begins to wedge, lose speed and, as a result, the load on the engine increases. The windmill is no longer operating at full capacity.

The engine wound with a thin wire of 0.2 mm begins to warm up and the windings gradually burn out.

How is such a defect detected? In this case, the fan stops rotating. It hums, but the impeller does not spin.

And it also happens that it starts only at the 3rd speed, and does not react at all to the first two. He just does not have enough power to turn the shaft.

In order to start it, you have to, like on old planes, impudently spin the blades.

By the way, the same symptom can be if the starting capacitor is damaged. How, without instruments, to find out what reason is to blame for the breakdown?

To do this, you need to at least get to the motor shaft by removing the protective cover and blades. If the shaft turns by hand with great difficulty, then blame the dirt and dried grease.

And if it spins easily and it has inertia, then most likely the conder is covered. Symptom - the fan is plugged into the outlet, but it does not spin. At the same time, you scroll into the impudent motor and it starts.

If you hold the fan blades with your hand during operation, it may stop again. The capacitor is checked with a multimeter if it has an appropriate capacitance scale.

To replace, select a new conder according to the same parameters as indicated on the body of the old one.

By the way, a capacitor that is not yet completely dry also affects the speed. If you notice that they have fallen and the fan has started to spin more slowly, this is a call to check it.

The problem of tight rotation is solved by new bearing lubrication. Here, so-called plain bearings are used. Some people call them bushings.

It is expensive to use balls in such designs, and they rattle over time, be healthy. For repairs, it is not at all necessary to disassemble the entire engine as a whole. It is enough to unscrew a few screws and spray WD40 universal spray in the right places.

How to disassemble the fan - instructions with photos

How to get to the bushings without removing the engine? First, unscrew the central screw on the back of the protective cover.

Another self-tapping screw is hidden in the adjusting button-lever for turning or stopping the fan head.

After that, the back cover can be easily removed from its place. What is under it? Here you can see the swivel gearbox that gives the whole head rotation.

From below, a special traction approaches it.

The starting capacitor of the engine is fixed on top.

By the way, keep in mind that in different models it may not be there. In this case, look for it near the gearshift buttons.

To gain access to the motor bearing, you will need to remove the gearbox. It is fastened with three screws, and is supported from below by a rod.

Tighten the screws and disconnect the rod. After that, the gearbox is removed from the shaft and you get access to the rear hub.

You don't need to untwist or disassemble anything else. The Vedashka will do the rest for you.

You put a narrow guide tube on the WD40 can and puff it several times into the gap between the shaft and the bearing.

After spraying WD40, turn the shaft by hand in different directions and move it back and forth a little.

Excess thickened grease, foreign debris and dust will gradually come out. These excess dirt can be easily removed with cotton swabs.

If you have a thick lubricant like cyatim or lithol, it is advisable to apply it to the gearbox worm. After these cleaning procedures, drip a few drops of sewing machine oil onto the bearing from the outside.

Just don't apply too much of it. Otherwise, it subsequently spreads to all places and dust sticks to it, turning back into dirt. As a result, you will again get a wedge and a problem with the rotation of the fan.

Felt washers are placed near the bushings in some models. They are impregnated with oil and when heated, the oil flows onto the shaft, lubricating it.

Everything is assembled in the reverse order. Thrust - three gearbox screws - outer cover.

By the way, if you over tighten the central screw on the back cover, and this is a self-tapping screw, not a screw, it can pass through the plastic of the rotary gearbox and rest against the shaft.

You will again have problems with revolutions and jamming. Sometimes the cause of the breakdown is banal and unpredictable.

With the rear bearing sorted out, then go to the front of the fan. There is a protective cap in the center.

It is unscrewed, attention - clockwise, since the thread here is left-handed.

Throw it off and remove the propeller from the shaft. You already have access to the front plain bearing.

The principle is the same here. First, squeeze out and soften the old grease and dirt with a bucket, and then apply a new one.

After that, put the propeller back and close the cap. After completing the repair, turn on the fan at high speeds, and after letting it work for a few minutes, switch to the speed that is required.

Shorted windings or broken wires

If the damage is more complex and simple lubrication does not help, you will have to disassemble the fan in more detail.

First, do all the disassembly machinations as indicated above. After removing the propeller, unscrew the plastic front locknut, which is located immediately behind it, and throw off the entire protective frame.

In your hands remains the engine itself and the leg, in which the power wires pass and the push-button mechanism is located.

Disassemble this leg by unscrewing 6 screws.

First of all, check the soldering of the wires. It is quite possible that one of them, or even a few, fell off or burned out.

If everything is intact, how to understand which wire goes where and what it is responsible for? Start testing with two wires from the power plug.

One of them, let it be black (as in the photo below), goes directly to the fan motor through the backlight.

The second wire goes to the lower terminal of the dial switch (button 0).

Further, by pressing the appropriate buttons - 1st speed, 2nd, 3rd, one or another switch contact is closed, and thereby the engine speed changes.

Each wire from these buttons goes to its own terminal on the winding, with more or less turns. Applying voltage to them, you make the propeller spin faster or slower.

Floor fan connection diagram

A simplified diagram of the wind blower is as follows.

Typical circuits for most inexpensive 3-speed floor fans are something like this:

Pressing each button is accompanied by the closure of its contact group.

In this case, the other contact group opens at this moment.

Sometimes these contacts burn or do not reach their plate. Then you lose any of the speeds.

All this is checked elementarily with a Chinese multimeter, in the continuity mode of the circuit.

If your very first wiring breaks or there is no contact on it, then the fan motor simply will not start. Therefore, with a completely idle fan, check it first.

Unless, of course, before that you made sure that the plug itself and the power cord from it are working. This is also called by the tester.

Put one end of the probes on the plug pin, and touch the contact pad on the "0" button with the other. If OK, there should be zero resistance.

Then you can check the wires in the same way at all speeds. Contact probe on the fork - another probe on the outgoing wire from the corresponding speed button to the engine.

If there are zeros everywhere, then the switch and wires are working.

Next, check the second contact on the plug and the wiring that goes directly past the switch to the engine. Make sure you have a whole cord here too.

Only after that you can proceed to check the windings of the motor itself.

How to check fan windings

Set the multimeter to 2000 ohms. Further, in order not to bite the wires anywhere, at the place where the capacitor is connected, you clean the insulation a little.

Look for a common point in the circuit, as in the diagram below.

Having found it, call the resistance of the winding. To do this, alternately touch the contacts on the switch with the second probe.

Approximate fan winding resistance values ​​can be as follows:

Of course u different models they may differ slightly, but the most important thing is that there is no break or short circuit. Measurements can show both a few hundred ohms, and a little more than 1 kOhm.

It all depends on the power of the fan and the wire size.

The resistance between the terminals of the windings will be already smaller - 100-200 ohms.

The capacitor winding and the total resistance of all windings combined are also checked.

Here is the most competent and complete video on checking the performance of fan windings with a multimeter.

If checking the integrity of the windings also did not reveal deviations and defects, go ahead. To do this, completely disassemble the fan, which is called the bones.

Disassembly and engine malfunction

First, the engine must be freed from all plastic parts. Loosen 4 screws with front side and remove the lid.

On new models, in addition to screws, there are still latches. They need to be bent with a screwdriver.

To detach the leg, you need to find another screw, which is usually hidden under the plug.

Loosen it and pull out the mounting shaft. To dismantle the wires that pass through the leg, they will need to be bitten out or soldered from the terminal blocks on the speed buttons.

At the same time, write down or sketch where which one is initially connected.

As a result, you should have a bare fan motor in your hands without everything superfluous.

We parse it. Loosen the screws securing the back cover.

At the same time, before disassembling, be sure to put marks on all covers and hardware on how everything was assembled initially.

Otherwise, after incorrect docking, you will lose alignment. There will be problems with the wedging of the shaft and the rotation of the blades.

Thermal safety relay failure

After removing the bearing, you get to the windings themselves. Among the bundle of power wires coming from the switch, look for a special thermal relay.

Very often, the engine stops working after it burns out. This relay should operate and open the circuit at a winding temperature of 135-145 degrees.

After cooling, the relay closes again and the fan starts. So, sometimes it burns out completely and actually plays the role of a fuse.

If your fan began to turn off often and restart on its own, this protection is to blame. Know that it just doesn't work. This means that either the shaft is wedged, or the windings come to an end and they overheat.

Overheating of the windings can be associated with the destruction of the small impeller, which stands on the shaft inside the engine itself. It is designed to blow and reduce the temperature of the coils.

In the cheapest models, a thermal sensor-relay is not installed; everything is connected directly to them. Based on this, if your "thermal fuse" burned out, you can, of course, bypass it and start the wind blower. But at the same time, you will be left without fire protection.

This relay is also tested by the tester.

Between his paws there should be a chain in continuity mode.

Shaft misalignment and coil breakage

If all the parts and relays inside are intact, it remains to carefully examine the windings, shaft and rotor through a magnifying glass. You may see torn or chipped copper veins.

This happens when a bearing pops out of its seat and the rotor begins to beat on the windings.

With modern Chinese floor fans, the screw connection between the two halves of the motor often loosens. Do not forget that the shaft on both sides is put on self-centering copper-graphite bushings, which are tightly locked in the covers.

When assembling and tightening them, you can lightly tap the transformer gland itself with a hammer so that the shaft turns easily, with little inertia. Someone is trying to catch the center on their own and making such a quiet horror.

The shaft eventually falls out of the bearing, resulting in a wedge. As a result, the rotor begins to scratch the windings and its surface.

Also keep in mind that if your fan fell and then stopped working and spinning, then the bushings were most likely misaligned here. Nothing else can break from such a fall.

The capacitor will not deteriorate from this, the windings filled with varnish will not break. Unless, some buttons can move away. But first of all, check the alignment of the bearings. And then everything will work as it should.

Unfortunately, with a mechanical defect in the windings or rotor, as well as their intraturn short circuits, you cannot cope on your own. It is not rational to rewind the engines of cheap wind blowers, it will be much easier to buy a new model.

However, this is already the last stage of the check, and there is a hope that you will never get to it, having found damage somewhere else, using the methods discussed above.

When you turn on your little assistant, it starts to buzz and exude an unpleasant odor? One more frequent breakdown the fan is in the blades that do not spin. Why is this happening, because even yesterday the device worked properly. Unfortunately, many users face this problem, especially when the device is actively used. Today we will figure out why the fan is buzzing, but not spinning?

Parsing together

If the floor fan does not turn on and the external examination did not give results, then you will have to unwind the device. To do this, prepare a screwdriver and pliers in advance. By the way, this method is suitable for those who are concerned about the question of why the floor fan spins slowly. Resuscitation of the device is carried out in several steps:

1. Remove the grill that covers the fan blades. As a rule, the grid is fixed on three latches.

2. Next, remove the impeller. It is fixed with a plastic nut. It needs to be unlocked. Be careful not to damage parts. Otherwise, you will have to come up with an alternative to the nut. By the way, also carefully remove the impeller. In inexpensive fans, plastic elements quickly fail under the influence of heat and air. As a result, the impeller can crumble right in your hands.

3. Now you need to disassemble the case. First, remove the nut that secures the rear grille. Then gradually remove the screws, first from the front and then from the back of the fan.

4. Having reached the casing of the device, you can remove it. Before you will be the engine and gearbox. The last detail is made of plastic. It has a capacitor attached to it. It is required to start the engine.

5. The next step is to remove the gearbox. It is attached with several screws. After unscrewing them, you can easily remove the gearbox with all the stuffing.

6. Next, remove the screws that connect the motor housing to the stator. Now we can remove the front and back of the box. On the go, you will come across rubber bands, put them in a separate container. Small screws can also be placed there.

7. Now we start cleaning the bearing itself and the surface around it. We remove the dirt with the help of ordinary matter. Then you should degrease the surface, acetone will do, and wipe everything dry. In the center of the bearing you need to drip from the oiler.

This way you remove the thick grease that gets inside the engine. As a result, it jams, and the fan blades stop spinning. The described process can be repeated for a desktop device, since they are arranged in the same way.

I was too lazy to write this material in the summer, but nevertheless it will come in handy for the next "shitty winter")))
Despite. that the summer is already over, but that long heat that has burnt us in every sense will remain in the memory of many for a long time. I already wrote, but the most popular tool that occupied all the tops of the hit parades of hardware stores and stores household appliances became a fan and air conditioning. When weather forecasters became something closer to God for us for a couple of months, we all rushed to buy up fans and this mass of buzzing plastic blades blew our sweaty, exhausted bodies for days on end. Someone was more fortunate and had not one, but two fans, which undoubtedly caused wild envy among those who had only the opportunity to see the price tag on an empty counter from a fan. But one way or another, any mechanical equipment sooner or later fails, which includes both desktop and floor "swivel". Especially often, fans broke down in people in the heat when they threshed tirelessly 25 hours a day. Many simply stupidly threw their rescuers into a landfill or put them out in the corridor for the simple reason "when the fan is plugged into the outlet, it does not spin or it spins extremely slowly, emitting a buzz and emitting a smell." I also faced the same problem when I got a fan. Since fans are in short supply in stores, and I always want airflow, I began to repair the fan, and at the same time decided to get to the bottom of the problem of its failure.
Despite the fact that there are floor and table fans, the difference in design between them is no more than between a fork and a spoon. Therefore, whoever understands how I disassembled my floor fan will surely understand how to disassemble the desktop one.
So, move closer to the monitor, Uncle Chinilkin begins the briefing.

Photo 1. We take and put a fan next to us, and also put a screwdriver, pliers, a cotton rag and an oiler next to it. If you do not know how to use these things, then invite your father or mother to the monitor.
Photo 2. Remove the protective mesh from the fan by opening three latches.
Photo 3. Turn off the plastic nut counterclockwise. When you wrap it back, do not apply hefty force so as not to break it. You can't buy spare parts anywhere!
Photo 4. Now easily remove the impeller from the motor axis. Again, be careful as the plastic the impeller is made of will dry out and crumble over time. If you break the landing site, you will pervert with electrical tape, winding it into the landing site on the shaft in order to somehow restore the transmission of rotation.
Photo 5. After removing the impeller, unscrew the plastic star nut that secures the rear grille to the body.
Photo 6. Now unscrew all the screws from the front of the case. Sometimes the screws come out badly, but don't be too zealous with a screwdriver, otherwise you will cut the threads in the plastic.
Photo 7. Unscrew the screw from the rear wall of the housing, which, in fact, secures the casing of the housing.
Photo 8. Now that the casing is removed, you can see that the main part of your drive consists of two things: the motor itself, fortunately made of metal, and the swivel gearbox, made of plastic. This gearbox consists of a worm gear and a sprocket that turns your fan left and right as it works. A capacitor is attached to the gearbox on a small screw, which is needed so that the fan motor can start.
Photo 9. Loosen 3 screws (or screws - whatever) that secure the gearbox flange to the engine and carefully remove the plastic filling of the gearbox. In the photo you see the rear shaft shank with a worm, with which the gear mechanism engages. By the way, anyone who is interested can unscrew 3 more screws of the gearbox and look inside and find that the mechanism there is completely plastic and lubricated with grease.
Photo 10. Now it's the turn to unscrew the 4 screws that connect the two halves of the motor housing to the stator. Put screws and screws in a jar so that later you don’t have to look for them under a table or sofa.
Photo 11. Slowly pull off the rear wall of the engine, if necessary, scrolling it along the axis of the engine.
Photo 12. Do the same with the front cover. note that there is also a rubber gasket on the shaft, which is also important to save. But for now, it must be pulled off the shaft and put in the same jar.
Photo 13. Take the covers in your hands and first remove all the dirt in the bearing assembly with a cloth. You can wind the rag around a thin rod to make it easier to guide the rag through the hole. After that, degrease everything with acetone or gasoline, wipe dry again and drip from the oiler into the bearing (holes in the center of the cover). Use only liquid lubricant! No lithol, grease, etc.! During operation, the grease will coke (form deposits) on the shaft for a couple of days of continuous operation in the heat and you will again climb to disassemble your cooler.
Photo 14. Now about the most important thing - the cause of the engine jamming. main reason jamming of fans, i.e. the main cause of failure is the very thick grease that is in the gearbox and on the shaft of the rear motor shank. During operation, the lubricant is carried along the shaft into the bearing and carbon deposits form there, which becomes larger over time and wedges the engine. It is imperative to wipe off all the grease from the shaft shank and in the gearbox itself on the part that will engage with this shaft! Necessarily! There is no point in lubricating a plastic gearbox until it is made of metal.
You need to collect everything back in the reverse order, as the Chinese did before you.
If the picture is too small, then click on it and look larger.

What to do if when you turn on the computer it does not turn on, but the fans start and turn off?

What should I do if the fans start and stop when I turn on the computer?

This situation is a very common malfunction in which the system unit refuses to start. When you press the power button, the processor fan seems to start spinning, but literally stops after a second. Naturally, there is no image on the screen.

In this article, we will tell you about possible reasons such behavior, as well as what you can try to do on your own at home, in order to try, if not fix, then at least diagnose the breakdown.

Possible reasons

First, in this situation, you need to try on the motherboard. Some boards will not start when the battery is dead.

Replacing the power supply

If it is not possible to temporarily replace the power supply, then although try starting your power supply manually,.

Connection of 4th and 6th pins of the 20-pin PSU connector

Pay attention to the external state of the motherboard, or rather the capacitors on it. Are there any swollen ones among them that can cause such a malfunction.

One reason is a swollen capacitor.

Sometimes there are problems with the power button. Therefore, we recommend trying to start the motherboard by disabling the power button and.

This is what the connected power button looks like

If manual start without a button did not lead to a positive result, then we try to do the following. Remove everything from the motherboard RAM, video card, disconnect both cables from the CD drive and hard drive.

Mandatory with USB and audio connectors.

Connecting the front USB inputs to the motherboard

We leave only the processor, processor cooler and power supply connected to the motherboard. Let's try to turn it on.

If the result is positive and mat. the board still started, then we try to alternately install all the removed elements in place in order to identify what is causing the problem. It's not uncommon for a computer to not turn on, fans to start and stop due to problematic CD drives or shorted USBs on the front panel.

In the case when replacing the power supply did not help, as well as removing all attachments from the motherboard, with a probability of 99% we can say that the problem is in the motherboard itself and it needs to be replaced.

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