Stages of manufacturing a drilling machine with your own hands. DIY drilling machine: creating a desktop model from A to Z

For all lovers, do-it-yourself product will be a great helper. Such a unit, in a garage or at home, will allow you to make holes with accuracy and accuracy, make milling in wood, drill broken bolts from threads, and so on. However, buying a drilling machine can be quite expensive, and why spend extra money when you can easily make a drilling machine yourself.

General Specifications for Drilling Machine

Drilling machine drawing

For the manufacture will require a minimum of expensive materials. Basically, these are improvised tools that can be found in any garage. Of course, the material must meet the requirements of the apparatus.

For example, for the manufacture of a large stationary machine, without metal frame can not be dispensed with, and in the case of a desktop unit, only wooden materials can be used.

For all types of structures, three fundamental factors will be required:

• convenient drill feed lever;
• the accuracy of the movement of the drilling mechanism;
• reliable stand.

Undoubtedly, the feed lever should be placed under working hand master, left or right. However, this is not the only condition for convenience. The drill feed lever should not be long, so as not to interfere with work, but not short, so that pressure on the part is easier. For a better idea of ​​arm length, it's worth looking at the blueprints for factory drill presses. There, the length is adjusted to the desired size.

Regardless of which drilling mechanism will be used, it should be fixed with the smallest possible error factor. To do this, the drilling mechanism is best fixed on a vertical rod. However, a solid wood panel with guide rails can be used.

Without a reliable bed, a homemade drilling machine will not only perform poorly, but become dangerous to use. The base of the tool should be twice as wide as the volume of the structure. This width will allow the structure to be stable during the necessary pressure. In this case, the feed lever should not protrude beyond the edges of the bed. This rule does not apply to stationary machines, because they are fixed to the table surface or made with an individual table.

DIY drilling machine

Which engine to use

You can make a homemade drilling machine using several options for the driving force:

• from a drill or screwdriver;
• from an electric motor;
• from a hand drill.

At the same time, for each type of structure, the characteristics of a stationary, portable or desktop machine. In the case of an electric motor, you can make a stationary or desktop device, and in the case of an electric drill, you get either a desktop or portable unit. A hand drill can at all carry the character of a portable device that does not require power.

Drill as a machine tool

In order to get a good drilling machine from a do-it-yourself drill, it is better to make a desktop design for this tool. In this case, it is worth avoiding fixing the machine on the table. An electronic drill is a fairly popular tool, so it will be useful if it can be removed from the machine. In this case, the design on the table will be superfluous.

A desktop filler machine will require the following materials:

• bed 45x30 cm, with a vertical bar attached to it;
• drill mount, well wrapped around the body of the tool;
• metal slider moving along the bar;
• a wheel that plays the role of a lever;
• steel cable, to control the movement of the lever.

For the bed, it is better to use a metal box with a wall thickness of 3 mm. To the box, a square pipe stand is welded. This stand will serve as a barbell or tripod. Next, a tight slider should be attached to the tripod, which will hold the drill holder and the drill itself.

It will be difficult to choose exactly the right slider, so it should be made of metal plates. The free space between the slider and the tripod should be no more than 0.5 mm, moreover, the tripod will be perfectly level.

Further sequence of actions:

• the slider is made 10-12 cm high;
• to it, a holder for a drill is welded on the front side and lugs for mounting the wheel on the back side;
• in the ears, a rod is threaded to which the control wheel is welded, and fixed with a cotter pin or a welded nut;
• on the wheel shaft, a steel cable is wound tightly (at least 6 turns), and both ends of the cable are securely attached to the top and bottom of the tripod. Thus, it will take effort to move the slider on the tripod, and the own weight (together with the drill) will not be enough for the slider to fall.

Drilling structure from an electric motor

Such machines are excellent in the role of stationary tools. In order to figure out how to make a drilling machine from an electric motor, you will have to consider the drawings and delve into the field of electrics.

For the machine, a two-phase motor is required, which will greatly simplify the connection and expand the scope of the unit. Such an engine is connected to phase and neutral wires. Incorrect connection will only affect the direction of rotation. If, the rotation will be in reverse side, then the wires are swapped, and the problem is solved.

When making a stationary structure for drilling, you will need:

• a powerful frame for the engine, which will easily move along a vertical line;
• countertop, where the pin will be fixed along a strict vertical line;
• as a pin, can be taken from the car. It will serve as a ready-made engine-moving device;
• attach a wheel for movement and weld the engine holder to the rail.

The working principle of this machine is very simple. The motor drives the drill head through a belt drive. At the same time, the engine and the drill chuck are inseparable during operation and move along a vertical line at the same time, thanks to the joint fastening.

Portable mechanism from a hand drill

It is very convenient to use a drilling machine from a hand drill in cases where it is not possible to connect an electric drill to a power source. For the manufacture of the machine, you can use a wooden frame:

• the base is made of a board 30x20 cm and a thickness of 40 mm;
• a vertical plank is attached strictly at an angle of 90 ° C;
• the vertical wall should also be made of a thick board, at least 30 mm, and they will help to fix it securely metal corners and screws.

Metal skids are attached to the vertical wall (they can be taken from old furniture or buy in a store), a hand drill holder is attached to them. Thus, the drill will move freely up and down, however, this is not enough. To prevent the drill from falling under its own weight, a spring of the required elasticity is attached to the drill holder and the base of the machine.

Do not forget about the handle, which will need to be twisted. Nothing should interfere with her movement. The result should be a unit that is driven manually and does not require power.

Video: Do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

A drilling machine is a unique device that is essential for a home workshop. It allows you not to seek help from specialized workshops, but simply take and carry out work on the groove yourself.

Thanks to this, a person saves a huge amount of money on the services of turning specialists.

You can make such a device from improvised materials. There is nothing complicated in the process.

For the production of a home drilling machine, you only need an electric drill or a steering rack.

The purchase of industrial units will cost a pretty penny, so it is more expedient to make your own model using drawings with dimensions, which are full on the Internet.

Before proceeding with the creation of the unit itself, a layout should be completed. This is a responsible step that requires a careful approach and drawing up a drawing. It is necessary to carefully measure and display on paper the dimensions of the future machine. If this is not done, something will definitely go wrong in the work.

It is easy to make a mistake, and having a drawing will not allow you to make mistakes. People who neglect this step in creating a drilling machine with their own hands overpay in the process of its manufacture. Things to keep in mind while working:

Drawings with dimensions.

• Length, width and height of equipment;
• The thickness of the aggregates;
• Technical characteristics of electrical equipment;
• Data of the engine that will serve as a drive for your machine;
• Power consumption energy;
• grounding;
• The number of consumables.

The drawing will allow you not only to visually understand how to assemble the equipment, but also how it will look exactly. The project will provide an opportunity to more clearly determine the amount of production costs.

To assemble such equipment in your workshop, you do not need to have specialized items or electrical equipment. All you need is 4 basic ingredients. First of all, a frame should be selected for the filler machine. It will serve as a powerful foundation for a future turning device.

After that, we determine the mechanism of rotation. For him, it is better to choose an electric drill.

Tip: Take a drill that is not too old, but not too new either. The main thing is that it be in working condition, otherwise the equipment can quickly fail.

The third step is to choose a device for feeding revolutions

on the working part from a drill, as well as decide on a stand, vertical type. The drill itself is lightweight, so you don’t need to look for heavy-duty materials for the stand. An ordinary board or chipboard will do.

Tip: Ideal as a drive asynchronous motor from an old washing machine.

The bed, on the contrary, is selected from those materials that will be stronger. It should hold everything on itself, and also dampen the rattling of the drill itself. So that vibrations do not affect the equipment and the accuracy of work, it is best to select strong metals. Very good, an old photo enlarger stand will do as a holder. True, to create a drilling machine with your own hands, you will need to modify it.

Important! The accuracy of the drilled hole will depend on the quality of the connection between the rack and the frame of the unit.

Also, the creator of the home loom will need to use several steel strips to cut out two guide bars. They will help to carry out the movement of the block on which the drill is located. You can use screws to secure them. We take and fasten everything to the rack.

Clamps will help to increase the strength of the fixation of the drill. It is best to use steel, they can withstand a higher load. To dampen vibrations even more, it is best to place a rubber gasket between the block of the machine and the drill. It will help you eliminate the rattling of home equipment during operation.

At the heart of the movement of the machine is the lever. It allows you to safely move the block with an electric drill in a vertical position. A spring will be installed there, which will allow maintaining the drilling apparatus in the desired tension.

Choosing and installing a steering rack for a drilling machine

To your home equipment worked as conveniently as possible, it is best to use an upgraded steering rack during its creation.

If you're going to buy it brand new from the factory, prepare a tidy sum

because it's not cheap at all. A more profitable solution is to choose a used part, best of all from the VAZ 2108.

Tip: As soon as you bought such a spare part, you should carefully inspect it, carry out preventive maintenance and repair if necessary. Thus, it will turn out to give it a smoother ride while working with a drilling machine.

Now let's start making a bed for your future drilling equipment

1. To make the case, you will need to use a drill along with a column. All this should be installed on a table that will serve as a platform for the future drilling machine. The dimensions of the table should be around 20x30 cm.
2. A special structure that will hold your electric drill is installed on the steering part of the unit. Bolts are used to tighten it.
3. To build the rack itself, you must first select a U-shaped steel profile with dimensions of 30x60x30. Then you need to weld it to metal sheet with a thickness of 2 mm. In theory, the stand itself must be 6-7 cm higher than the length of the column itself.
4. As a rod stroke, it is best for the machine operator to use the VAZ 2108 steering rack, which was mentioned earlier, when creating equipment.
5. To further increase the rigidity of the entire structure during installation, additional ribs should be mounted.

So that the operator does not have problems with starting or turning off the equipment during operation, a practical system for starting and stopping the engine of the drilling machine should be considered.

In everyday life, not a very large machine may come in handy, but drilling equipment for working with micro printed circuit boards, as in the photo.

To make it, the creator will need:

• Micromotor or engine running at high speed.
• Special collet for clamping small drills.
• Several wooden blocks.
• Metal profile U-shaped.
• Retaining ring, which will help to more reliably fix the engine.
• A mobile platform for a machine tool, which is created by hand from all kinds of materials found in everyday life.

Important! So that the machine does not disappoint you in the end and works clearly and accurately, you should pay special attention to lowering the drill. It should be perpendicular to the board.

In the event that the motor is skewed under some circumstances, the user risks incapacitating the drills. During the production of home drilling equipment you need to carefully monitor the quality of fixing the motor. If it was installed unreliably, when the engine is running at high speeds, it will simply be pulled out of the frame. This is fraught with damage to your property and the risk of harm to health.

How to make a coordinate table

V home machine for drilling, the role of the coordinate table will be carried out by the feed mechanism. And the same table, but for milling equipment, has a slightly different design. Therefore, it should be considered more carefully.

This equipment is a special manipulator, which consists of the number of axes required by the user. It is needed to move specialized technological heads of drilling equipment in several directions and planes at once.

Important! To make a milling table at home, one cannot do without the use of several linear-type modules. They must be made of aluminum profile.

To transfer motion when creating milling table a special toothed rack should be used, as well as a reinforced belt. Instead, a ball screw element will do.

To adjust the control of the coordinate table, the creator will need to use the CNC or controllers. Thanks to their installation, the user of the equipment has the opportunity to manage the technical tasks assigned to the machine.

Important! When creating a milling table for a drilling machine, be sure to make a drawing before you get started. This will allow you to clearly understand the algorithm of actions and save yourself from unnecessary mistakes.

In this case, the calculation is carried out taking into account specifications the drilling unit itself. The design itself can be both lightweight and with increased strength. And also 2 or 3 coordinates can be used there. First of all, before you create a machine, you should understand its main role in your home workshop. And start from this in the design process and further production.

When everything is ready, you need to make a vice, otherwise you will not be able to fix the part at home, it is strictly forbidden to hold it in your hands. Purchasing an old Soviet vise made of steel or cast iron can be expensive. Chinese-made models, not everyone will like them, to the extent of their fragility. Therefore, one of the economical options would be to make them yourself.

You will need:

• A screw with a thread of 2 cm and a length of 15 cm. There must be a slot in the head of the fastener.
• A special screw with a ring that is used for tightening.
• Hairpins.

You should make a motionless sponge. How to make this element? To create, use a pine tree. It is affordable and quite durable. The board should be grafted to the countertop.

To make the mobile part of the vise, you need a board with dimensions of 2 cm thick and 1.8 cm wide. The length of the movable jaws for clamps must be from 50 cm.

All that needs to be done is to cut holes with a diameter of 2.1 cm. In the studs, this diameter will be 1 cm. Then the creator simply inserts the studs together with the screws into the finished holes, after which he baits the nuts and tightens them with bolts.

And this completes the production of home vices.

When you have created your home drilling machine, you should definitely check it out.

Plug the engine into the outlet and if you did everything right, you have no short circuit, no uncharacteristic sounds for the unit to work - you can congratulate yourself on the successful completion of the project.

A homemade machine will allow you to perform simple drilling operations at home and save on the services of auto repair shops or turners.

Video how to make a drilling machine

The only thing is that in order for the equipment to work as long as possible, do not be shy and do not be lazy to inspect the working surfaces together with the engine for damage or wear of parts once every six months. Timely identification of the problem will allow you to save yourself from real trouble.

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The drill is a multifunctional tool, but in human hands it is difficult to obtain special drilling accuracy from it. A drilling machine from a drill with your own hands according to the proposed drawings may come in handy. If the drill is an everyday tool, it can be fixed to the bracket with clamps. When an energy tool is included in a permanent composition, the ballast of the machine can be taken out.

When is a drilling machine needed?

A drilling machine from a drill is used by those who create homemade items. They are made with fantasy, it is difficult to find the necessary parts in the store and the meaning is lost. Masters love to create everything on their own. Often, such a craftsman is faced with the question of the accuracy of the holes that he must drill. Everyone knows that there is no exact performance of work on a canopy and on a knee. You will need a holder to secure the tool with equipment.

Which drill to use depends on the nature of the hobby of the master. The manufacture of electronic circuit boards for radio amateurs requires a drill cross section of 0.3 mm, manually at the slightest deviation from right angle the drill will break. Only a small drilling machine will save the day, but it is expensive. The only way out is to do it yourself.

On your own machine, created from improvised materials, you can:

• make through and blind holes;
• drill a centered perpendicular hole in a thin workpiece;
• cut a hole or cut a thread.

The main parts of the drilling machine

The machine is drilling, which means that it is supposed to use a drill assembly with or quick-clamping. The tool must be mounted on a reliable vertical stand and have freedom of movement up and down. The rack must be vertically installed and fixed on a massive plate from below, which is called the frame. The tool is easy to describe, but in order to achieve accuracy in performing operations, it is necessary to create a well-adjusted design. In special publications and the Internet, you can find drawings of a drilling machine from a drill with your own hands from various materials.

Any tool created according to the standards at the enterprise is equipped with safety elements - protective screens, locks against accidental activation. When creating your tool, you need to take care of protection, take measures so that the machine does not fall into the hands of children.

Drilling is accompanied by strong vibration. Small shocks destroy the structure of materials, and it will not be possible to achieve accurate operations. Vibration is damped by soft pads, which are mounted at the attachment points of the tool and a massive frame - vibration waves stall. Contributes to the fine trembling of the instrument is poor assembly, misalignment, and a shift in the center of gravity. All moving parts of a homemade drilling machine from a drill fit sweatily, with minimal gaps.

We build a drilling machine according to the drawings

To help the master, for the first time building a drilling machine from a drill with his own hands, drawings are offered. Any person with primary carpentry skills can assemble a structure from wooden bars and use a furniture plate under the frame. Fastening of a wooden structure is carried out with self-tapping screws.

Corners are used to fasten elements. The drill mount can be made collapsible, on removable clamps, or the tool can be built in tightly. An important part of the device will be a movable sled device, along which the drill with the drill moves during operation. Often, furniture telescopic guides are used to create skids. It is simply and clearly presented how to assemble a drilling machine from your own hands, in the video:

The proposed option is universal, it copes equally well with metal, wood and other materials. But it is cumbersome and for small operations, craftsmen make miniature machines using a tripod from a photographic enlarger and a welded frame. In some cases, it comes into play steering rack from the car. Metal frame structures require locksmith skills. How to make a drilling machine is decided, depending on the availability of improvised parts and the purpose of the fixture.

An example of a completely unusual design of a small device for radio masters is a machine tool from an old school microscope and a UAZ car windshield wiper engine. The motor gives a lot of torque, but to use it, you need to lengthen the shaft. Its power and torque are sufficient for drilling foil-thin sheets of metal. The bracket itself needs to be improved - the fine tuning, the microscopic assembly are removed and a miniature engine is mounted.

Fundamental points of working on a drilling machine

The newly manufactured machine requires additional adjustment. A trial inclusion is carried out on a table where all irrelevant items are removed. The machine is considered properly assembled and ready for further work, if:

• the drill rotates along the axis, without creating expanding sectors with rapid rotation;
• the drill lowered down must exactly enter the recess or the intended point on the frame;
• the movement of the drill along the sled is adjusted tightly, but without jamming and jerking;
• for through holes, a special substrate is prepared so as not to spoil the frame.

During drilling, be aware of the heating of the device, periodically raise the tooling during deep drilling, liquid can be used for cooling.

Always remember that high-speed cutting tools are a source of increased danger. Changeover can only be carried out on de-energized equipment. The eyes must always be protected by goggles.

A selection of various drilling machines created by the hands of masters, for all occasions, confirms the inexhaustible ingenuity of craftsmen. You can buy everything in the store, but creating your own instrument is worthy of a master.

One of the options for a drilling machine from a drill - video

» From the master class presented by the author, you will learn how to independently make a drilling machine from a drill for your workshop. What craftsman doesn't dream of owning his own drill press? But you yourself know what the prices for factory machines are) So, to get your own. the author made it himself. In principle, there is nothing complicated in manufacturing for a technical person. First, a base is made of 3 mm sheet steel, 2 corners are welded onto the edges of the plate, and 4 legs from a steel bar along the edges, the main thing is that the length of the legs is the same so that there are no distortions. After that, a lifting column 500 mm long is welded onto the prepared base, along which the slider will be raised and lowered with a drill fixed to it through a bracket and a clamp. The lifting mechanism is also quite simple, 2 brackets are welded on the slider that hold the rotating shaft, and a cable is wound on the shaft itself in several turns and stretched from the bottom to the top of the lifting column.

Again, having made this machine with your own hands, you can save a lot of money, which will favorably affect the family budget)

And so, let's look at what exactly is needed to assemble the machine? And also we will analyze the whole step-by-step process step by step.

materials

1. drill
2. cable
3. metal corner
4. professional square pipe
5. workpiece vise
6. bolts, nuts, washers, engravers
7. metal sheet 3 mm
8. fittings
9. dye
10. collar

Tools

1. drill
2. welding machine
3. Bulgarian (UShM)
4. emery
5. file
6. sandpaper
7. brush
8. calipers
9. ruler
10. hammer
11. tap, die

Drilling Machine Assembly Step by Step Guide

And so, before proceeding with the assembly of the machine itself, it is necessary to consider the drawing, but unfortunately it shows a slightly different design, of a spring type, but the principle remains essentially the same.

Next, you need to prepare and cut the base from 3 mm metal. Corners and legs are welded along the edges, which can be adjusted, namely, the thread is first welded, and then the bolt is screwed in. The slider is made of 2 corners welded into a pipe, for a start, the corners are applied to a square-section professional pipe and pulled together with a clamp. Clings along the edges, and then scalds. Here's what happens in the end. A lifting column is made from a professional pipe, its height is 500 mm. Brackets with a rotating shaft are welded onto the body of the slider for installing the cable. A thread is cut into the drilled hole.
3 handles are being prepared from fittings for the lifting mechanism.
There is such a head on the shaft, the handles themselves will be welded onto it. Here's what actually happens. It is strung on the column rod. A loop is made on the rope. The cable is stretched, several turns are made on the shaft of the lifting mechanism. Next, the cable should be pulled. After that, the author makes a bracket for attaching the drill. This design is welded onto the corner. For convenience, tightens with a clamp.
Installs a clamp for attaching a drill. Clamps the drill with a clamp. Checks the operation of the lifting mechanism. The knots must first be lubricated with grease. Further, for fixing the workpiece in a fixed position, such a vice was screwed on.
Paint done. Threads are cut on the handles of the lifting mechanism. The machine drills a hole in the wooden head. It is screwed onto the handle of the mechanism. Also on the side there is a stopper for fixing. Here is such a wonderful and budget machine turned out by the author. Everything is ingeniously simple and very reliable, Master Golden Hands!

Thank you very much for your attention!

A home drilling machine (simply a drill) is equipment that anyone who has ever mastered at least something once feels an urgent need for. Craftsmen sometimes make drills with 2-speed gear, part tables with more than 3 degrees of freedom, and even two-coordinate CNC drilling and milling machines, see fig. below. But in this publication we will consider the manufacture of a drilling machine with our own hands - one that simply drills and mills - but accurately, cleanly, and confidently keeps its accuracy for a long time subject to occasional short-term overload: stable processing accuracy is the main requirement for metal cutting equipment. Which in amateur designs is performed, unfortunately, most often only due to a random combination of circumstances.

Metal or wood?

Wooden drilling "machine"-monster

It always seems to beginners that woodworking is easy and simple. A damaged workpiece will fit into small crafts or fuel. Perhaps that is why there has been a real craze lately: homemade machines with responsible wooden details. As a result, monsters sometimes appear in the world, which, probably, would have surprised Archimedes, see fig. on right. However, remember: the best achievable accuracy on wood is +/- 0.5 mm. In metal cutting, the largest allowable error is 0.375 mm by default (in England and USA 0.397 mm = 1/64 inch). At this point, the question of using wood as the main structural material of the machine is closed without discussion that, they say, wood, moreover, is deformed, worn out and damaged by orders of magnitude lighter than metal. Well, for lovers of deep inner self-satisfaction in products - free will for their money and work.

Drill device

Fantasy is an indispensable condition for any creative success, but in mechanical engineering it is useless without precise calculations and reconciliation with proven solutions. The history of machine tool building goes back thousands of years - bow turning and drilling machines with a foot drive were used already at the end of the Stone Age. On the topic of this article, the tested sample is an industrial design desktop vertical drilling machine. We will refer to it, choosing and deciding how best to make a drilling machine with our own hands: there are single copies of drills in operation, which have exceeded 100, and they still hold accuracy.

The device of a desktop vertical drilling machine is shown in the figure:

Its main modules are a bed, a column, a console and a table for the part. The components of the main nodes are slightly highlighted in color, and their components are brighter in colors. The simplest table(not counting the wooden block) - a vise. The rotary-sliding table allows, in addition to drilling, to perform some milling operations. The frame is usually tightly attached to a workbench or other reliable support.

Screw clamp - fixing the console of the mini-drilling machine

In operation, the console is set in the required position according to the size and configuration of the workpiece using the lifting and turning mechanism of the slider, and fixed. The spindle is fed into the working stroke by a separate feed mechanism. In amateur and industrial designs for home use, the lifting and turning mechanism is most often the operator's hand, and the latch is the screw clamp of the slider, see fig. on right; in TB, both are acceptable. But what must certainly be in the design of a drilling machine according to the requirements of the same PB is a fender or just a fender: if you throw the feed handle, the spindle or carriage along with it should automatically bounce up to the stop. In home drills, the fender is most often a spring installed in a suitable place, see below.

Note: industrial production, sale and use at enterprises and in IP workshops of drilling machines without a fender are prohibited by the PTB.

Make or buy?

An electric drill is a ready-made drive, gear, spindle and chuck in a monoblock. Put it on the carriage of the machine - and you can drill. In terms of accuracy, the solution, generally speaking, is not optimal (see below), but in many cases it is acceptable, but it eliminates the need to order expensive turned parts of increased accuracy, see below. In view of what the beds for installing a drill are now sold, perhaps not on the street from trays; prices are affordable. When choosing one to make a drilling machine from a drill, be guided primarily by the mode of operation of the equipment; the price also depends on it:

• Episodic drilling / milling for yourself with the accuracy of what happens - a cast plastic bed or stamped steel. The feed mechanism is lever with a cranked lever (see below). Sliding bearings of the carriage (see below) steel on steel or with nylon liners. Prices are $20-$30.
• Regular drilling for yourself or to order with conventional machine-building precision. Processed materials - up to the hardness and toughness of conventional structural steel. Everything is the same, but plain bearings are steel on steel (worse) or with bronze bushings, and the frame is cast iron or (more expensive) composite is also vibration-absorbing. Prices are $30-$40.
• Regular drilling and milling of any materials that can be tooled with periodic overloads of the tool and / or with increased accuracy - plain bearings only bronze on steel, cast iron bed. The feed mechanism is rack and pinion (see more below); vibration-absorbing console. Prices are $60-$180.

Note: As a rule, a rotary-sliding table for the workpiece is optionally offered with drill stands, which allows for certain types of milling. Price within $20.

Choosing a bed

The frame for the drill (which sellers for some reason stubbornly call racks) must be chosen not by manufacturer (“China” - not “China”); Now the market is full of "German China", not to mention the products of the post-Soviet states. You need to check the design.

Firstly, samples with plastic non-nylon bearing bushings are unequivocally rejected: the runout and drift of the drill by more than 0.5 mm will appear already on the 10th - 20th “hole” and will continue to increase. The second is the backlash of the console. We take it by the far end, shake it up and down and to the sides with the clamp clamped. There should not be a noticeable "talker" (the tactile sense of an untrained person feels a beating of 0.4-0.5 mm).

Next - inspection of the structure, see fig. below. For conventional drilling, the one shown in pos. one. Perfect option- at pos. 2: drill collet clamp, shifting the column to the side reduces the vibration of the console by an order of magnitude, and turning it sideways by 45 degrees, you can mill by hand with precision “as best you can” the part on a standard non-sliding table, removing a pair of table mounts, because at the same time, its manual displacement relative to the horizontal working axis of the console will be linear.

And here is a sample in pos. 3 do not take in any case. Firstly, the collar of his column is low and its fastening is unreliable. Secondly, the longitudinal grooves under the table facilitate manual milling “how it goes”, but, unlike the diagonal ones, they do not dampen the vibrations of the bed. Moreover, they will concentrate where indicated by the arrows (the tide under the column is made too narrow) and from there they will go straight to the column and table.

What is cheaper?

Let's say the price of the frame you like does not suit you. Or a drill, if it is a "draft", with a percussion mechanism, which was in work on building structures and the beating of the cartridge can be seen by eye. Then, first of all, we find out if the master who owns a lathe of increased accuracy (not coarser than 0.02 mm) is within reach. Which, by the way, is not a fact - a high-precision machine is very expensive and never pays off on a stream of common orders. But, let's say, found. We take the drawing in Fig. on the right, we go to him and ask if he can carve it out of steel no worse than 30HGSA, and how much he will take for work. “This” is the drawings of the table drill spindle. The rest of its details can be machined on a conventional machine, or found in the ruins at the iron market or in your trash. Most likely, it will turn out that buying a bed + table is cheaper, and if you estimate the costs for the rest, then, perhaps, a drill with increased accuracy will be outlined. On sale there are; they can be recognized by the absence of a percussion mechanism and a collar specifically for installation in a bed: a turned steel cuff is put on it.

If you still do

However, there may be cases when a homemade drilling machine will either be cheaper or even for nothing, or the best drill on the frame will not replace it. The fact is that, in addition to bending and vibration loads, torsional loads are also transmitted from the working body (tools - drills, cutters). This is due to the difference in the lever arms from the axis of the column to the closest to it and the far edges of the tool; torsional loads from the cutter, gnawing the material with one edge, are an order of magnitude greater than from the drill. Therefore, it is unrealistic to obtain an accuracy of processing with a drill on a bed over 0.1 mm (why - see below), but let's say, a hole of 2.7 is needed for the M3 thread; under M2.5 - 2.2, and the processing error in this case is unacceptable. In general, it makes sense to make a drill with your own hands, despite the costs, if:

1. You are a radio amateur and work with components with a pin pitch of 2.5 and 1.25 mm (“thousand-legs” with a pitch of 0.625 mm are already mounted only on a plane). Then you need a PCB drilling machine with an accuracy of at least 0.05 mm;
2. You are engaged in other fine work on wood and metal. For example, it is impossible to make a beautiful elegant box or a reliable hiding place in the house using only manual drilling;
3. You drill / mill from time to time for yourself and the accuracy will suit you which will come out, and there is a lot of junk in the gas holders.

Note: in the latter case, you are lucky, suddenly an old children's bicycle is lying around somewhere. The tubes of its frame are of excellent steel, and the wheel hub is almost a finished spindle; on order, only an adapter with a Morse taper for a tool chuck remains. Working thoughtfully and carefully, an old bicycle can be turned into a drilling machine with an accuracy of approx. 0.1 mm, or actually a free drill stand, see for example. video:

Video: do-it-yourself drill stand

Layout

But, let's say we need higher accuracy, and we need to mill the grooves without losing it. In this case, the layout of the machine is of paramount importance.

The best option is the location of the spindle and the drive on opposite sides of the column, pos. 1 in fig. The heavy motor in this scheme acts as a counterbalance to earthquake-resistant buildings: it reflects vibration and torsional loads from the spindle in antiphase. In the area of ​​the column from partially extinguish each other. The damping is maximum if the center of gravity of the carriage is exactly along the axis of the console, and the higher, the thinner the drill and the less pressure on it. That is, the accuracy of the machine for fine work increases, and at the same time, without loss of accuracy, it can withstand quite significant overloads.

Note 4: it is possible to make a drill for precision work with a direct drive to the spindle and the location of it and the drive on the same side of the carriage if there is a ready-made vibration damping frame, for example. from an old microscope (under 2), etc. optical devices.

In mini machines for printed circuit boards and jewelry work, an unpleasant effect is observed: in order to obtain an accuracy above 0.05 mm, the column has to be made disproportionately thick, pos. 3. This is due to the fact that its ability to absorb vibrations and torsional loads is determined by the cross-sectional area, which, with a decrease in the size of the part, falls squarely. For boards for components with a lead pitch of 2.5 mm, as well as small metalwork and carpentry work, an accuracy of 0.05 m is sufficient. In this case, the main influence on its deterioration is exerted by loads bending the column. To parry them, it is enough to use a double column of a 10-14 mm bar from ordinary structural steel, pos. 4. If the usual accuracy of 0.375 mm is sufficient, then by doubling the column, a drilling machine for episodic work can even be made from a drill and propylene water pipes, pos. 5. Its resource before loss of accuracy is small, but the material is also cheap and does not require processing to order.

Innings

An important role for the accuracy of drilling is also played by the device of the spindle feed mechanism (carriages in the machine from a drill): jerks and / or uneven feed force at least increase the runout of the drill. When drilling with a thin carbide drill, in this case, its removal, breakage and, as a result, irreparable damage to the labor-intensive workpiece are very likely.

In machines and beds for a drill of increased accuracy, a rack and pinion feed mechanism is used (on the left in the figure), which ensures its complete uniformity and, which is especially important for manual feed, precisely proportional return of the tool stop to the hand. This requires a rack and pinion with a well-defined tooth profile - involute. Otherwise, the feed will go jerky even with absolutely smooth pressure on the handle. It is unrealistic to make a pair of rack and pinion with the same involute teeth “on the knee”; picking up a suitable ready-made pair is unlikely, so rack and pinion feeders in homemade drills are extremely rare.

More often they make a simple single-lever feed mechanism, in the center in the figure, but this is far from optimal. At the beginning and at the end of the stroke, when smooth feed and drilling accuracy are especially important, it transfers the emphasis to the hand insufficiently, and excessively in the middle of the stroke, which increases the likelihood of the tool getting stuck in viscous material. From these shortcomings, the feed mechanism with a cranked breaking lever, on the right, is free; in addition, it additionally dampens console vibrations. The ratio of the shoulders of the knee take approx. 1:1.

Table with serving

Drilling thin brittle / sticky parts is more accurate, and the likelihood of drill loss and breakage is less if the spindle is fixed and the table with the part is fed up to it, therefore, in many drills for fine work, the table is equipped with a separate feed mechanism. Due to the inertia of thinking, it is often also made rack and pinion, see for example. Further. But, given that the mass of the table in this case is much larger than such a part, a lever-feed table turns out to be no worse, but completely affordable for home production. Its device is shown in Fig.:

There is only one nuance: so that the clip does not lead during assembly, it is tightly inserted into the through hole of the base and welded from below (from the underside). You need to cook with an OMA-2 electrode or thinner with a direct current of 55-60 A with short diametrically opposite tacks (“pokes”). Dimensions of the table for printed circuit boards and jewelry work 60-150 mm in diameter; thickness 6-12 mm. Table shank diameter 12-20 mm; length by the feed stroke +(20-30) mm. The tube for the shank (wall thickness from 1.5 mm) is desirable to be machined or drilled and reamed so that the shank runs smoothly in it without noticeable play. The short lever arm is made approx. equal to the diameter of the table; long - whatever you want.

Console

Let's look again at Fig. with factory settings. The designs of their half-frame carriage consoles are similar; they are quite rational, but designed for automated and robotic production: precision casting and then finishing in place on a CNC machine and laser measurement.

A diagram of an analogue of a console with an amateur-designed semi-frame is given on the left in the figure:

The first thing that attracts attention is that you need to cut 5 parts from a thick steel sheet, trimmed (processed with a face mill) for evenness and parallelism of the sides. Second, the end sections of the inserts filled with dark gray must also be even, clean, and parallel. Those. and here without milling machine not enough. Finally, outside the production conditions, it is unrealistic to perform a sliding pairing of the slider and the guide carriage (shown by the arrow) with a backlash of less than 0.1 mm. Let's estimate the ratio of the lever arms - the transverse runout of the drill is more than 0.5 mm.

The design of the console of a drilling machine, which is not very technologically advanced in mass production, but adapted for manufacturing by handicraft methods, is shown on the right in Fig. (the feed mechanism and the drive with the bracket are conventionally not shown). Moreover, in it, the beating of the drill on the inhomogeneities of the material causes the carriage on the column and the guide to skew in opposite directions, and the lateral drift of the tool does not exceed the amount of play in the slip liners. Only one detail is cut out of a thick plate - slider 4. Its precise processing is only necessary in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bclamping the column and installing the guide, and 3 bronze bushings-inserts will precisely fit any turner of average qualification in place, if you give him a column and a carriage guide (they can be machined with normal precision).

So that the entire assembly does not lead to welding, you need to cook as before. case: OMA-2 electrode or thinner, direct current up to 60 A. The seams are also welded alternately with tacks: a “poke” on one, the same on the same far one, located symmetrically. Then the tacking of the seam closest to the first, the same on the diametrically opposite one, etc., etc., until all the seams are welded.

Note: the accuracy of the machine with the described console will be higher if it is assembled not by welding, but by screws with gluing with high-strength glue for metal ( cold welding). First, everything is assembled without glue, the clips are aligned for parallelism and the fasteners are tightened. Then the screws are turned out one by one, glue is dripped into the nest and tightly wrapped back. A dreary business, but in this way it is realistic to get a home-made drill with a drill runout of less than 0.02 mm. Unless, of course, the spindle and chuck are centered no worse.

Errors in design

All efforts to make a drilling machine with your own hands will go down the drain if fundamental mistakes were made during its design. The most common of them are shown in Fig.:

Typical mistakes in the manufacture of a drilling machine

Pos. 1 is the console or what? This frame will not withstand the standard load from the tool stop for a long time. There is no need to talk about accuracy. Pos. 2, in addition: it is impossible to make the column of the drilling machine tubular. The pipe holds bending loads, but is powerless against torsional loads, and only intensifies vibrations.

Pos. 3 - to make a drill from an old photographic enlarger, the temptation is great, especially since it was made with at least initial, but optical accuracy. But! The magnifier rod holder is not designed to support the tool. As a result, when drilling hardboard, the drill departure at a feed rate of 20 mm reaches 1.5 mm (!). And the bracket is silumin: this material does not absorb vibrations, gets tired quickly, and the bracket breaks in less than 200 holes even when drilling printed circuit boards.

Pos. 4 - doubling the column in the transverse direction does not give anything. The resistance of the machine to loads will be no higher than on a single pin of the same diameter. Pos. 5, in addition: the rebound spring, which is asymmetrical about the axis of the column, does not dampen vibrations and torsional loads, but enhances them. If so, it was necessary to put 2 identical springs on both racks. And it would be better to make a column, as shown here:

Video: do-it-yourself drilling machine from a drill

Pos. 6 - installation of the drive and spindle on one side of the column, and even asymmetrical, does not reduce, but enhances vibrations, because they are transferred to the column in phase, see above. Pos. 7 - where is the fender? Yes, it cannot be here, since the screw feed drive. With a screw, you can accurately set the slider (which is not here at all), which is generally not necessary on a home machine, but in no case should you feed the carriage! This structure will be thrown a little bit with fragments of drills and chips, and the operator's eyes are in close proximity to the danger zone.

Structural analysis

We will consider examples of successful technical solutions, as well as not so significant design flaws, using the examples of several home-made drilling machines.

For a radio amateur, modeller, craftsman-miniaturist and / or jeweler, a simple mini-drilling machine with direct drive may be of interest (the drawings are given in the figure on the right). The design feature is that the drive motor is rigidly attached to the slider, and the feed is only from below by the table. The massive electric motor itself serves as a vibration damper and torsional load absorber, just like an anti-seismic load on high-rise buildings. Thanks to this, all parts, except for the Morse taper with an adapter to the motor shaft, can be performed with normal accuracy: the drilling accuracy is determined by the beating of the motor shaft + the beating of the cone with the adapter + the beating of the drill itself. A table with a rack and pinion feed mechanism can be easily changed to a lever one. It is better to use a collector DC motor: for asynchronous motors with capacitor start, due to uneven rotating magnetic field and slip of the rotor in it, the rotation of the shaft is less uniform. In addition, the speed of rotation of the collector motor is well regulated even with a simple rheostat, and to adjust the speed of the asynchronous motor, you need to change the frequency of the supply current. The same is for synchronous with a magnetic rotor. The maximum speed of the motor shaft is 800-1500 rpm. Power on the shaft for drilling holes up to 3 mm - 20-30 W; for holes up to 6 mm - 60-80 W.

Note: this machine is not suitable for milling, because motor shaft bearings are not designed for side loads and the machine will quickly lose accuracy in this mode.

Here in fig. drawings of a fully functional mini-drilling machine of the same purpose, also with direct drive, are given:

It is equipped with a separate spindle, which allows, firstly, to fill a drill with a maximum diameter of 6 mm into the chuck No. 1a; for 8-10 mm drills, the engine is rather weak. Secondly, to make milling with dental burs. Apparently, the author of the design often uses this particular operation, on the basis of which the motor rotation speed was chosen. Without reducing it, it is necessary to drill on this machine with carbide drills, and to use ordinary drills, supplement the design with a speed controller; in this case, the motor needs at least 60 watts. A conspicuous drawback of this machine - a simple lever feed drive - can be easily eliminated: the feed lever is replaced with a cranked one without modifying the rest of the parts. To improve the accuracy of processing, it is also desirable to put the second rebound spring (pos. 14 in the figure and 9 in the specification; there and still confused) symmetrically to the first, at the other end of the spindle leash. A more serious design flaw is that the rebound springs are not involved in damping vibrations and torsional vibrations. At rotational speeds above 5000 rpm, their influence on accuracy practically does not affect, but already at 1500 rpm, the runout of the drill during the working stroke increases by approx. twice.

Drawings of a drilling mini-machine, conceived as a full-fledged structurally, but with annoying errors, are given in fig; the design of the carriage is similar to the console in the previous. designs.

Thanks to the installation of a strong rebound spring in the right place, it was possible to firmly fix the spindle in the carriage, which at first glance reduced the number of parts that require increased precision. But only when feeding from below by a table, and even then, the fixation of the slider 5 and the carriage 4 with pairs of screws 17 and 16, respectively. unreliable and spoils the column; it would be better to use screw clamps. And when the released carriage is fed by the lever, only its joints prevent the carriage from turning. A play of any of the hinges of the lever of 0.02 mm, taking into account its ratio with the length of the knee shoulders, will give a lateral drift of the drill by 2 mm or more, which can only be parried by hand. In this machine, the console with an additional carriage guide, described above, would be most appropriate; in this case, it would be quite possible to achieve a runout of the tool due to backlashes in the interfaces of the parts of the machine itself no more than 0.02-0.03 mm.

On this fig. - drawings of a bed for a drilling machine from a drill with a semi-frame carriage, "almost like a real one."

Everything is good in it, and something is even better than the "firm": plates 5, which prevent the lateral displacement of the carriage, perfectly "catch" and suppress the vibrations of the instrument in their very bud. There is only one question: how to do all this, if in the garage (shed) a machine park worthy of a small machine-building plant? It is easier to make a drilling machine from a drill as shown in the video:

Video: homemade stand-machine for a drill

Involuntarily, an old Soviet joke comes to mind:

“Dear Comrade Leonid Ilyich honored a certain industrial enterprise with his visit. They are walking through the workshop, suddenly the general secretary stops the retinue with a wave of his hand, one approaches the worker at the machine:

- Comrade turner ...

- Yes, Petrovich, I ...

- Good. Comrade turner Petrovich, tell me frankly - do you drink vodka?

- But how! We use!

- And if a bottle costs 10 rubles, will you still drink?

- I will.

- And 25?

- I will.

- And 50?

- I will.

- And 100?

- I will anyway.

- Petrovich, ... but where can I get so much money for my salary ?!

- Gee ... what does the loot have to do with it ... this little wick (shows) how it cost a half liter, and it will cost.”

Who is happy, who is alas, but those Petrovichs, general secretaries and industrial relations are no more. And it will not be - they turned out to be completely ineffective.

About steering drills

A fairly popular request on this topic is also "drilling machine from the steering rack of a car." It seems to be a ready-made converter of rotational motion into a linear one, and even with a geoid transfer characteristic: in order to “peck” a little with a drill, you do not need to “catch microns” with your hand. You just need to adapt the steering wheel to the rail, make a drill holder (see the figure on the right), and you're done, see video.