Kira Stoletova
Growing vegetables on your own plot guarantees the availability of fresh and safe products. How to plant onion sets in Siberia? Climate features require different approaches to cultivation and selection of varieties. In the review, we will analyze the most proven and effective points in breeding a popular spice.
Choose a site
Growing vegetables in harsh weather requires maximum attention from the gardener. One mistake will lead to the complete destruction of the crop, and even the most resistant varieties will not help. To avoid unnecessary trouble, the first step is to find a suitable place for vegetables.
Before planting onion sets in Siberia, you should know one of its characteristic features: the culture prefers well-lit areas - beds should be laid out in a sunny and ventilated sector of the garden. The plant does not tolerate acidic soils well, so they are alkalized with wood ash or lime in advance.
A place for vegetables has been prepared since autumn. Professionals dig up the territory with the subsequent introduction of organic fertilizers. In the spring, before starting work, minerals are added to the soil (in grams per 1 sq. M):
- potassium sulfate - 30;
- ammonium nitrate - 20;
- superphosphate - 40.
To avoid common diseases, it is worth remembering the rules of crop rotation. Gardeners do not advise planting onions for several years in a row in one place, as well as after carrots and garlic. Recommended predecessors are:
- cabbage;
- legumes;
- zucchini.
Before starting work, be sure to remove the remains of weeds and cultivated plants. Such care will protect against problems in the future. If the vegetables were sick at the site, then we advise you to pickle the soil in the fall.
Varieties
It will not work to grow very large turnips with seeds in a harsh cold climate. Greenhouse varieties are only suitable for feather cultivation. Professionals recommend using small sets.
Onion varieties for Siberia are strong plants that quickly form beautiful heads. Breeders tried and presented a lot of interesting vegetables. The most popular types:
- Yukont;
- Siberian annual;
- Black Prince;
- Siberia.
- Sterling F1;
- Daytona F1;
- Candy F1.
Before buying, you should pay attention to the shape and size of the heads. Too large most often give a lot of arrows, so it is recommended to purchase small and medium sets. Oblong onions will delight with round turnips, and flat varieties can boast of an ideal oval. It is important to carefully examine the material and read the description, and not choose products solely by the photo.
Sowing preparation
Cultivation of vegetables requires the right preliminary measures. When growing onion sets in Siberia, it is necessary to process planting material. In this way, plants can be protected from common diseases.
In 5 liters of water add 2 tbsp. l. rock salt. Turnips are soaked in this liquid for 24 hours, then they are transferred to a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes, after which they are immediately planted.
Fungal infections are the main scourge of onions, so a different method is used. Sevok is heated in water for 10 hours at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C, then disinfected for 15 minutes in a weak solution blue vitriol. Before sowing, the material is sprayed with growth stimulants.
If there is no desire to warm the bulbs for a long time, they can be dipped for a quarter of an hour in water at a temperature of 55 ° C, then for the same time - in the cold. In the end, you need to treat with a solution of potassium permanganate.
spring work
When to plant onion sets in Siberia? In a harsh climate, several proven schemes are used, but a friendly full-fledged harvest can only be obtained with spring work. Small seed does not give arrows, so it is most often used for growing turnips.
May is best month for agricultural work. Terms vary depending on the warming of the soil. The ground temperature during planting should not be less than 8°C.
Seed beds are divided according to the following scheme (in centimeters):
- width - 100;
- distance between rows - 15;
- distance between turnips - 10;
- depth - 2.
Before planting in spring, the earth is moistened, loosened and cleared of weeds. For disinfection, it is advised to pour boiling water over the wells, and postpone work for a day. After the activities are completed, the place is carefully mulched.
When growing with seeds, the deepening of the grains should not exceed 2 cm, while the distance is reduced to 1.5. The work takes place at the same time. In difficult climatic conditions, it will not be possible to grow full-fledged heads in one year. All shoots are used per pen.
winter onion
When is onion planted in Siberia? Some gardeners are experimenting with frost-resistant varieties and plant vegetables in the fall. To do this, select a material whose diameter does not exceed 3 cm.
The first decade of October is the best option for work. During these periods, the possibility of late germination is excluded. The bulbs are buried deeper, not forgetting about mulching with sawdust and straw after the event.
The Siberian climate makes it difficult to grow onions in autumn. To save winter planting from early cold weather, you can cover the beds with seeds with a thick layer of coniferous paws. The higher the fortification, the more securely the turnip is hidden. Such caution will protect the future crop from freezing in low-snow seasons. Perennial varieties perfectly adapt to winter, and in the spring they delight gardeners with young greenery.
Exhibition in Siberia. Exhibition is ready for landing in the ground.....
LEEK WINTER WITHOUT SHELTER IN SIBERIA!
Onions, cultivation. Exhibition in Siberia, warming up the seeds.....
top dressing
Before the appearance of the first leaves, work on the beds is limited to watering as the soil dries. After three feathers come out in place of the seeds, you can proceed to more serious procedures. Often at this stage, inexperienced gardeners make mistakes.
Fertilization is the main element in the care of onions. Depending on what is planned to be grown, certain preparations are used. Organics are used for growing on a feather, and minerals will become indispensable for obtaining large heads.
The first top dressing consists of phosphate and ammonia agents dissolved in warm water. Farmers recommend using ready-made specialized mixtures that are designed specifically for this crop. The second application is carried out in a month.
An excess of nutrients is just as harmful as a deficiency, so you can’t regularly “feed” onions. Before the procedure, the soil is loosened, irrigated, and only then fertilizers are used. If you use chemicals on dry ground, then you can burn the delicate roots.
Care
How to water onions? In the conditions of the Siberian climate, in the first month, procedures are carried out once a week, then the moisturizing periods are increased by half. In dry summers, it is allowed to slightly add the number of events.
The intensity of moisture is most monitored in the spring. During this period, the formation of the root system and the growth of greenery. An excess of fluid will lead to decay and disease, and a lack of it will lead to starvation. A negative fluctuation will definitely affect the taste of onions.
Loosening is important element care. The culture does not tolerate oxygen deficiency, so it is important to plant vegetables on soils that allow air to pass through well. Regular weeding will get rid of weeds. The best way to make the job easier is to mulch the garden bed.
Diseases and pests
Ignoring the rules of care causes infections to appear. Excess moisture in the soil and high temperature provoke the occurrence of Fusarium Donets. It infects one-year-old onions, as a result of which the stored turnips become soft and disappear.
Wet bacterial rot appears towards the end of the growing season. You can see the signs only when the head is cut. For several weeks, vegetables do not show symptoms of the disease, but then massively lose their presentation.
The rusty "mosaic" spots on the feathers are the spores of the fungus. As the infection progresses, the formation of ground and underground parts. The pathogen overwinters in plant debris and is able to withstand the most squeaky frosts. Regular destruction of weeds and straw will help to secure the beds.
At the end of May, the onion fly lays its eggs under dry seed scales or in the soil next to the crops. A week later, hungry larvae penetrate the turnip and gradually eat the vegetable. During the summer, at least 2 generations of pests come out.
To get rid of the insect, spraying with "Metaphos" is carried out. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to plant carrots nearby. The specific aroma repels the fly.
Harvest
You need to dig onions when new greens stop forming. During this period, the feathers dry and lie on the ground. A few weeks before the final procedures stop watering. This trick inhibits the accumulation of moisture, which provokes decay during storage.
The best early ripening variety for Siberia has time to fully mature and form protective scales. Before harvesting, it is recommended to dig one turnip. The presence of a thick neck and light husk indicates that the culture is not yet ready for storage.
Cleaning is carried out in dry windy weather. You need to dig carefully, trying not to damage the bulbs. Injuries and cuts negatively affect the keeping quality of products. You can not knock heads on the surface. All harvested crops are laid out to dry in the fresh air. To speed up the process, the vegetables are manually turned over for 2 weeks.
Planting onion seeds in Siberia is an important and responsible procedure. Our recommendations will help you decide on the choice of an early ripening variety and teach you how to plant seeds in harsh climatic conditions.
Onions are one of the most popular crops that you can grow in your own backyard. It gives a unique taste to various dishes. In order to properly plant and grow onion sets, and then reap a rich harvest, you should choose those varieties of sets that are adapted to your region. Today we will talk about the best and most popular varieties of onion sets that can be planted in the Urals.
Arzamas
When they say "in the Urals", they mean the Chelyabinsk, Orenburg, Kurgan regions and Bashkiria. The first of the varieties of onion sets, which is included in the special state register of the Russian Federation, is Arzamas. Representative of the type of folk selection. The bulb of this variety has a shape from long-round to cuboid-round. Each specimen weighs about 80 g. It ripens 100–110 days after planting. The scales have a characteristic dark yellow color. The degree of ripening before harvest reaches 96%. Pretty well kept.
Buran
Buran onion sets, which are also successfully planted in the Urals, are a universal species. Each bulb of such a set weighs about 100 g. It is covered with scales of saturated yellow color. The degree of maturation of this variety of sevka reaches 89.2%. The yield is about 12 tons per hectare. Has a weak immunity to peronosporosis. But it is resistant to possible bacterial infections. Has good keeping quality. Representative of a late-ripening variety. Endowed with a sharp taste.
Boterus
Bulbs of this variety, which can be planted in the Urals, are usually grown in a two-year cycle from sets. They are flat-round in shape and can weigh up to 80 g each. The scales are colored yellow. The degree of full maturation is up to 97%. Stores well in winter. It has medium early maturation. Spicy in taste.
Myachkovsky 300
Onion sets of an early variety, zoned for the Urals. From the moment of planting to the ripening of the crop, usually no more than 90 days pass. The shape is somewhat flat, capable of weighing about 110 grams. Covered in yellow. It has a universal purpose and a semi-sharp taste. It has a high degree of preservation.
Siberian Annual
Such a set is super early. Maturity occurs 2.5 months after planting onion sets. Vegetables can be both flat and somewhat rounded in shape. The scales are yellow. It is realistic to grow onions weighing about 200 grams. It has a semi-sharp taste. Normally stored, endowed with resistance to the formation of arrows.
Black Prince
The Black Prince is a representative of a mid-season species. The crop can be harvested 105 days after planting. It is endowed with a rounded or flat shape, when weighed, each specimen reaches 100 g. A characteristic difference is that it is covered with purple hue scales, for which it received its name. Landing is carried out both winter and spring. The degree of productivity is about 50 tons per hectare. Well kept. Endowed with a semi-sharp taste.
Exhibition
Onion sets of this variety give a consistently high yield regardless of weather conditions. Is mid-season. The mass of each vegetable can be up to 800 g. The top layer is colored straw. It has a high degree of cold resistance and immunity to diseases. It has juicy flesh and sweet taste.
Timiryazevsky
This set has already been excluded from the State Register, but gardeners continue to actively plant it.
Is precocious. Each vegetable weighs up to 70 g, covered with a dense peel of light brown, sometimes yellow, color. The degree of maturity varies between 65–100%. Everything depends on weather conditions. Well kept in winter.
Bessonovsky local
From the moment of germination to the appearance of feathers, which produces a set of this variety, it normally takes from 60 to 80 days. When harvesting, it is possible to obtain bulbs, each of which is covered with yellow scales and weighs no more than 55 g. The vegetable has a rounded flat shape and is dense in structure. The advantage of the species is excellent keeping quality. When creating the proper conditions, it can last about 8-9 months.
Moldavian
In the Siberian region, you can still plant Moldavian onions. This mid-season vegetable is the result of the work of specialists from the Pridnestrovian Research Institute of Agriculture. Its cultivation is carried out in one season. Harvest can be harvested after 110 days. The vegetable has a rounded or flat-rounded shape. On average, each copy weighs about 70-130 grams. But at good care really collect and bulbs weighing up to 200 grams. Covered with a shell of pink-brown color with an obligatory white-violet tint. This species has a universal purpose and a sharp taste. The degree of productivity can be up to 38 tons per hectare. Well kept.
Carmen MS
Pretty new variety. Grown in a two-year culture. There are usually no more than 3 bulbs in the nest. They have a flat-round shape and an average density. The top layer is dyed purple. Each vegetable weighs between 100 and 120 grams. Slightly spicy in taste.
Sturon
This type of favorite vegetable comes from Holland. It has an average maturity. One-celled large bulbs can be grown, each of which is capable of weighing about 120-180 grams. Sturon has a strong immunity to various diseases, is high-yielding, well stored. It has an exquisite spicy taste.
Hercules F1
This vegetable also arrived on the territory of our country from Holland. The weight of each specimen, covered with yellow-brown scales, can be from 100 to 130 grams. A feature of the species is the presence of a powerful root system. This allows it to endure drought. It is medium early and has a consistently high yield.
Strigunovsky local
This is a domestic view of the Belgorod region. Representative of an early variety of vegetable. Its bulb is dense, rounded in shape. When weighed, it reaches 80 grams. Covered on the outside with a shell of yellow with gray or Pink colour. Maturity occurs after 90 days. Keeps well in the winter at home. The vegetable is endowed with a pleasant taste with a mandatory sharpness.
Video “How to plant onion sets”
From this video you will learn how to plant onion sets and get a high yield.
Most rural residents traditionally grow onion sets. This method guarantees the harvest of large bulbs, and planting material is used sparingly, because the size of the sowing allows you to distribute it over the garden at the right distance. Not everyone can grow this crop from seeds in one season, and the main reason for failure is the wrong choice of variety. But you can get excellent yields when sowing black onion, correctly selecting varieties and hybrids, and the cost of seed will be much less than when buying a set.
In addition to reducing costs, this method of cultivation has other advantages. Firstly, onions from seeds are not prone to bolting, unlike sets, which require special storage conditions. Secondly, it is rather difficult to grow high-quality sets on your own, as well as to keep it until spring planting. But to obtain seeds, great efforts are not required: it is enough to plant several large bulbs in the garden in the spring and collect flower stalks after ripening.
The downside is that only a limited number of varieties are suitable for annual cultivation, especially given the seedless method of cultivation. In addition, some of them, although they give large marketable bulbs, can only be stored until January. And one more thing: when sown in open ground, seedlings need enhanced care, since the sprouts are very thin, weak, and easily clogged with weeds.
Variety Selection Criteria
When choosing a variety or hybrid of onions, you should pay attention to the following criteria:
- maturation periods. Early varieties form a bulb in 90 days, in mid-season the vegetation lasts 110 days, late ones require from 120 to 130 days to ripen. As a result, some are intended for summer use and for greens, others are grown exclusively for turnips;
- the number of primordia in one plant. Small-sized (small-nested) varieties most often produce only one bulb, less often two, and are grown on a turnip. Polygermous form at least five pieces in the nest and give a lot of feathers for greenery;
- root size. Bulbs weighing up to 50 g are considered small, medium ones reach 120 g, large ones grow up to 400 g and more.
The taste of the onion also matters. As you know, it is spicy, semi-sharp and sweet, used mainly in salads. The characteristics of the variety are always indicated by seed producers on the packaging, and careful study of this information will help to avoid mistakes when choosing.
The best varieties and hybrids of annual onions
There are many varieties of onions, both domestic and foreign selection. Below are only the most popular of them, suitable for cultivation in our latitudes and time-tested.
| Name | Variety characteristics |
|---|---|
| One of the most productive varieties of Dutch selection. In one season, it forms very large (about 500-600 g) bulbs of an elongated shape, golden in color. The scales are dense, juicy, have a delicate sweet taste. The variety is single-germ, belongs to salad, can be stored until about January. Diseases are affected very rarely, quickly adapting to bad weather conditions. It is recommended to grow it by direct sowing, without seedlings. |
| Refers to salad. Forms large bulbs of purple color, with dense scales, juicy and bright taste. Bulbs grow up to 100 g, and with proper care and 120 g. The growing season lasts 110 days, the variety adapts well to various weather conditions. Most often cultivated as an annual, although sevkom can also be propagated. Unlike other lettuce species, Red Baron is perfectly preserved until the new harvest. |
| An early maturing low-growing variety with beautiful elongated bulbs. The upper scales are red-brown in color, the inner ones are bright pink. The taste is sharp, the mass of root crops is from 50 to 65 g. It grows well in compacted plantings, tolerates drought well, pleases with consistently high yields. It is recommended to grow through seedlings |
| Mid-season and very productive. The bulbs are light yellow in color, round, rather dense. With a seedless method, the mass reaches 100 g, when growing seedlings - from 200 to 300 g. It is practically not affected by downy mildew, and is also resistant to other diseases. It tolerates temporary drought and temperature drops, it is perfectly stored until late spring. Juicy bulbs have a pleasant sweet taste |
| A popular domestic low-bud variety. Vegetation lasts 130-140 days, bulbs with direct sowing gain a mass of 150 g, when grown by seedlings - up to 300 g. Root crops are very dense, oval, straw-yellow in color. The taste is spicy. The variety is valued for its stable yield and undemanding care, excellent maturation, resistance to downy mildew. Keeping quality is high - the bulbs are perfectly stored until June |
| Lettuce early ripe variety. The bulbs are dense, purple on the outside, white on the inside with blue veins. The shape of the root crops is round, the average weight is 80 g. This variety is valued for its yield and excellent semi-sharp taste. Not suitable for long-term storage, used mainly fresh |
| It is considered one of the best winter varieties. Seeds winter well in the ground, germinate early, form large, very dense and juicy bulbs of a semi-sharp taste. The color of the scales is white, the average weight of root crops is 90-100 g. Suitable for summer and autumn use, stored until January |
| Domestic variety, small nested, early. Forms flat-rounded dense bulbs weighing 120 g of semi-sharp taste. The outer scales are golden in color, inside the bulbs are white and very juicy. Subject to agricultural technology, it gives consistently high yields in all weather conditions. Keeps well and is disease resistant |
| Early maturing variety. Bulbs of light yellow color are rounded, weigh from 80 to 120 g, have a semi-sharp taste. The advantages of the variety include excellent maturation, plasticity in cultivation, resistance to mechanical damage. Root crops are perfectly stored until the new harvest. |
| Very early variety suitable for winter sowing. It is characterized by increased cold resistance, gives excellent yields in the northern regions, forms a lot of juicy greenery. Forms flat-round bulbs weighing 80-120 g, with a semi-sharp taste. Valued for resistance to shooting and long-term storage without compromising taste |
| Mid-season, universal purpose. The bulbs are dense, rounded, weighing up to 300 g, with a sharp taste. The color of the outer scales is dark golden, inside the bulb is white and juicy. It is grown up by direct crops in soil and seedling. It tolerates adverse conditions very well, is rarely affected by diseases, and is perfectly stored until late spring. |
Hybrid varieties of onions are also gaining popularity, despite the higher cost of seeds. This is due to the fact that hybrids are more disease resistant, store better and give good yields even on poor soils. The most demanded is the products of Dutch breeders.
Hybrid varieties of annual onions
| Name | Description |
|---|---|
| Early maturing hybrid intended for universal use. Forms rounded, white bulbs, weighing 80-90 g, pleasant semi-sharp taste. It normally tolerates small cold snaps and dry periods, gives a stable harvest, is stored until December |
| Mid-season and cold hardy. The shape of the bulbs is round, the color is dark golden, the weight is from 50 to 100 g. The hybrid is three-legged, forms a lot of juicy greenery, is practically not affected by Fusarium and pink rot. Bulbs have a semi-sharp taste, well stored |
| High-yielding, mid-season. The bulbs are round, bronze-colored, juicy, weighing from 120 to 150 g. The hybrid is sparse, usually forms one bulb, less often two. It is stored well, it is rarely affected by diseases, it has a semi-sharp taste. |
| An early maturing hybrid recommended for growing in the central and southern regions. Shows excellent productivity even in dry years, stored until the next harvest. The bulbs have a semi-sharp taste, have a rounded shape, the average weight is about 100 g |
| Very reliable mid-early hybrid for central latitudes. Forms oval bulbs weighing 75-90 g, light brown in color, with a semi-sharp taste. Valued for friendly ripening and uniformity of root crops, excellent adaptation to weather conditions |
| Delicious hybrid salad type. The bulbs are round, red, white-pink inside, juicy. The average weight is 200 g, the taste is semi-sharp. Valued for productivity and quick adaptation to different conditions cultivation. Stored until February |
| Mid-season hybrid. The bulbs are golden, rounded, with a very developed root system. Average weight 80-100 g, good flake density, high palatability. Valued for resistance to adverse weather conditions and excellent maturation of the bulbs. Keeping quality is good, the onion retains juiciness and pleasant taste for a long time |
| New dutch hybrid average maturity. Forms large (200-250 g) golden-brown bulbs. Forms a large number of greenery, root crops, when grown, protrude from the ground by a third, which facilitates harvesting. Valued for high productivity, resistance to drought and disease. Has a very long shelf life without compromising taste |
A few secrets of annual onion cultivation
High-quality seed is one of the most important conditions for obtaining marketable bulbs, but mistakes made during cultivation can reduce the result to zero. There are certain secrets of onion farming that every gardener needs to become familiar with.
The most important thing is to choose the right seeds. Black onions lose their germination very quickly, and if the expiration date on the package expires in the year of planting, the seeds are already considered old and only 20-30% can sprout. It is best to sow the seeds collected the previous autumn, then the similarity will be at least 90%. With the high cost of varietal seeds, this is of great importance in terms of economy.
Onion seeds germinate long enough, and when grown in a seedless way, some of the sprouts are clogged with weeds and die. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to pre-treat the seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate and soak for a day in water. Growth stimulant can be added to the water.
After soaking, the seed is dried to flowability and sown in the ground. As a result of such actions, the seeds hatch faster, and the weeds do not have time to drown out the sprouts.
For the formation of bulbs, loose nutritious soil and an open sunny place are needed. The best onion precursors are legumes, cucumbers, cabbage and potatoes. The bed should be prepared in the fall: it is dug up well, fertilized with rotted compost, and mineral fertilizers are added. On dense soil, the bulbs are small, often do not ripen completely and are affected by rot.
In order for the onion to be well stored, watering is stopped no later than 3 weeks before harvesting.
The last time the onions are watered a couple of weeks before harvesting.
Harvested in warm, dry weather, and then dried for another week under a canopy. Under these conditions, everyone can grow large marketable bulbs from seeds.
Video - Onion varieties from seeds in one season
Read in № 9
"20 NEEDS" FOR GETTING GOOD SEEDLINGS
Without growing good seedlings, you will not get an early harvest of vegetables. Seedlings should be strong, stocky, with a thick, well-developed stem and a good root system.
But in order to get such seedlings of vegetables when growing them in an apartment, you need to know well what mistakes we most often make when preparing seeds for sowing and growing seedlings.
* It is necessary to prepare a soil mixture for growing seedlings from special components (soddy soil, humus, ventilated lowland peat, stale sawdust, coarse-grained river sand), taken in a certain ratio depending on the crop being grown.
These components must undergo 5-6 weeks of cold treatment on the balcony with two-time defrosting of the soil, and for growing cabbage seedlings - a mandatory preliminary heat treatment.
Two weeks before sowing the seeds, do not forget to bring this soil into the apartment. During this time, beneficial microflora will awaken in it. And in order to speed up this process, it can be treated with a working solution of the Baikal preparation.
And the best option today should be considered the purchase of a ready-made soil mixture designed for growing exactly the vegetables you need in a specialized store.
* It is necessary to use well-drained containers for growing seedlings, in which seeds and seedlings will develop quickly.
* It is necessary to maintain the optimal soil temperature for seed germination in the seed box (from 20 to 30 ° C). If the apartment is warm, i.e. 23 ° C, then this does not mean that the soil in the box on the windowsill is also warm.
If the box is far from the window, then the soil temperature in it is usually 5 degrees lower than in the room. And if the box is on the windowsill, then the temperature is lower by 10 or more degrees. At this temperature, the seeds of heat-loving crops will either germinate poorly, or may even rot.
* It is necessary to prepare vegetable seeds for sowing, but it is still advisable to purchase seeds already fully prepared by the manufacturer in the store.
* When sowing, it is necessary to observe the required deepening of the seeds into the soil, since their excessive deepening can lead to the appearance of only single shoots.
* It is necessary to prevent thickened sowing of seeds. At the same time, the seedlings develop unevenly, the stems of many are elongated, and are formed fragile. Such seedlings are difficult to dive, besides, they are more affected by black leg and other diseases.
* It is necessary not to water the soil in the seed box immediately after sowing the seeds, because in this case the seeds can be pulled deep into the soil along with water. The soil in the box must be watered abundantly warm water immediately before sowing the seeds, and after sowing, just spray with warm water from a spray bottle.
* It is necessary to prevent insufficient watering, which leads to overdrying of the top layer of soil in the sowing box, which leads to the death of seedlings that have hatched or the roots of young plants die off. And excessive watering leads to rotting of the roots or damage to plants with a black leg and their death.
* It is necessary to prevent watering seedlings with cold water that has not settled during the day. The water temperature should be at least 22-24 degrees.
* It is necessary to provide young plants with the necessary illumination and daylight hours from the moment they emerge. With insufficient lighting, the plants are drawn out and are not able to produce a large crop in the future. Boxes with seedlings should be placed on the southern, sunny windowsill.
In any case, it must be illuminated with fluorescent lamps so that the total daylight hours are 12–14 hours, i.e., when seeds are sown early, seedlings must be illuminated even on the southern windows. And to improve the lighting, it is necessary to install a reflective screen near the box with seedlings from the side of the room, pulling the foil over the cardboard for this.
* We must not be late with picking seedlings. For most vegetable crops, this should be done after 1-3 true leaves have appeared. After picking, the plants must be shaded from direct sunlight for 2-3 days.
* It is necessary in the process of growing seedlings to carefully transfer it 1-2 times from smaller containers to large ones.
* It is necessary to periodically change the plants in places, starting from the moment their leaves touch each other.
* It is necessary to start feeding plants not earlier than they take root and start growing. They are usually carried out every 10 days, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers.
* It is necessary to feed the plants with nitrogen and phosphorus, depending on the quality of the prepared soil, the required number of times.
* To prevent plant diseases, it is necessary to take care of an infection-free soil mixture for growing seedlings, adding trichodermin to it, and regularly water the seedlings with the Rizoplan preparation.
* It is necessary not to overdo the required duration of growing seedlings of vegetables.
* It is necessary to harden the seedlings before planting it in a permanent place. This must be started 10-12 days before planting the plants in a permanent place, gradually increasing the time it is outdoors.
* It is necessary not to water the seedlings before transporting them to the garden, because slightly withered plants break less from careless touches. But immediately after arriving at the site, the seedlings must be plentifully watered with warm water.
What kind of carrot is better Overview
You come to the gardening store and marvel at the orange variety of carrot varieties! Here you have both early-ripening varieties, and for winter storage, round and sharp, long and snub-nosed. Well, just a glance! And if you look, then not every variety is suitable for growing in your summer cottage. When choosing planting material, it is worth focusing primarily on climatic conditions, ripening period, disease resistance, soil features suitable for growing a particular variety. After studying the country literature, we compiled Brief characteristics popular varieties and hybrids of carrots. Descriptions of varieties of carrots and their classification by maturity, taste, regional preferences will help determine What kind of carrot is best.
Variety selection criteria:
- Ripening period
- Region and climate
- Taste qualities
- yield
- keeping quality
According to the ripening period, they distinguish: early ripe (early) - ripening in 80-100 days, mid-ripening - ripening in 100-110 days, medium-late - ripening in 110-130 days, late-ripening - ripening in 130-150 days - varieties and hybrids. We will take this criterion as a basis. And at the end of the article a valuable hint will be given: What varieties and hybrids of carrots are best planted in your region.
The earliest carrots: varieties
Variety "Amsterdamskaya" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central Black Earth region. Root crop weight: 50-150 g. Productivity: 200-460 q/ha. Not for long term storage. Excellent taste qualities. The grade is steady against cracking.
Variety "Paris Cartel" early ripe. Root crop weight: 30-50 g. Productivity: 140 - 350 kg / ha. Sweet, but low yield. The taste is good, but the storage is poor.
Variety "Artek" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root crop weight: 70-130 g. Productivity: 420-670 q/ha. Not for long term storage. Excellent taste qualities. The variety is resistant to white rot, unpretentious to soils.
Variety "Rex" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central and Central Black Earth regions. Root crop weight: 180-210 g. Productivity: 330-800 q/ha. For long term storage. Excellent taste qualities. High yield, even root crops.
Hybrid "Buror F1" early ripe. For cultivation in the Central Black Earth region. Root crop weight: 60-120 g. Productivity: 210-620 q/ha. Excellent taste, high yield.
Hybrid "Parmex F1" early ripe. Root crop weight: 30-50 g. Productivity: 110-120 q/ha. Excellent palatability, small, spherical roots. Sweet taste. Good for canning in general. Not for long term storage.
Medium varieties of carrots (mid-season, mid-late)
Variety "Marlinka" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central region. Root crop weight: 90-175 g. Productivity: 260-580 q/ha. For long-term storage, canning and freezing. The variety is unpretentious to soils and climate.
Variety "Children's sweet" mid-season. For cultivation in Russia. Root mass - 130-200 g. Sweet, juicy, crunchy, with a high content of carotene. High yielding. For long term storage.
Variety "Children's joy" mid-season. Root mass - 150-170 g. Productivity - 7-8 kg / m2. Small core. Juicy, sweet, high in carotene. For long term storage. Stem resistance.
Variety "Nantes 2 Tito" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central, Middle Volga, Ural regions. Root crop weight: 170-180 g. Productivity: 430-570 q/ha. For long-term storage, canning and freezing. The variety is universal.
Variety "Nantes" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central and Central Black Earth regions. Root crop weight: 70-125 g. Productivity: 250-490 q/ha. The grade is steady against cracking and tsvetushnost. Universal, suitable for long-term storage, canning.
Variety "Lakomka" mid-season. For cultivation in different climatic zones. Root crop weight: 90-160 g. Productivity: 260-505 q/ha. High yield. Delicious root vegetables. Small core. Tender, juicy. Increased content of sugars and carotene. Perfectly stored without loss of taste. Suitable for making juices.
Variety "Nuance" mid-season. Root weight: 110-120 g. Yield: 4.2-6.4 kg/m². High yield. High content of carotene and sugars.
Variety "Vitamin 6" mid-season. Root mass: 60-165 g. Productivity: 3.7-7.8 kg/m2. Great taste. High content of sugars and carotene. The variety is resistant to flowering. The lightness is good. Recommended for fresh consumption and winter storage.
Variety "Losinoostrovskaya 13" mid-season. Root weight: 160-170 g. Yield: 6-8 kg/m2. A small core of a root crop. High content of carotene. Resistant to bloom.
Variety "Moscow winter A-515" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central and Central Black Earth regions. Root weight: 90-175 g. Productivity: 4.7-6.6 kg/m2. Long term storage. Large roots. Resistant to bloom.
Variety "Caramel" mid-season. Root mass: 95 - 160 g. High-yielding. Excellent taste, rich in sugars and carotene. For long term storage. Juicy, tender and very sweet. Suitable for making juices. The grade is steady against cracking and tsvetushnost.
Hybrid "Olympic F1" mid-season. For cultivation in the Central, Northwestern, West Siberian regions. Root crop weight: 100-120 g. Productivity: 440-640 q/ha. For long-term storage, juice production. High content of carotene.
Hybrid "Altair F1" mid-season. High yielding. High sugar content.
Hybrid "Honey-sugar F1" medium early. Small core. Juicy, sweet. High content of carotene and sugars. High-yielding, for long storage.
Hybrid "Lydia F1" mid-season. Root crop weight: 80-100 g. Productivity: 600-620 q/ha. For long-term storage, canning. Excellent taste qualities. Resistant to bloom and white rot.
Variety "Rosal" medium-late. For cultivation in the Central and Middle Volga regions. Root weight: 160-240 g. Yield: 315-815 q/ha. Medium keeping quality, suitable for canning and freezing.
Variety "Incomparable" medium-late. Root mass: 100 - 180 g. Productivity: 3.1-7.1 kg / m2. High yield, high content of carotene. Resistant to bloom. Well kept.
Hybrid "Nevis F1" mid-late. For cultivation in the Central, Northwestern, Far Eastern regions. Root weight: 110-160 g. Yield: 370-890 q/ha. For long term storage. High yield. The variety is resistant to white rot.
Carrots: late varieties and hybrids
Variety "Perfection" late-ripening. For cultivation in Russia, Ukraine, Moldova. Root crop weight: 100-120 g. Productivity: 230-480 q/ha. Medium keeping quality, high yield. Excellent taste, high content of carotene. The variety is unpretentious to soils, universal. Resistance to wet rot, drought.
Variety "Flaccoro" late-ripening. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root mass: 135-200 g. Yield: 340-880 q/ha. Good keeping quality + good for canning. Disease resistance.
Variety "Boltex" late-ripening. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root mass: 135-200 g. Yield: 340-880 q/ha. Good keeping quality + good for canning. Disease resistance. Large, but not long roots.
Variety "Koral" late-ripening. For cultivation in the Central region of Russia, in Ukraine, in Moldova. Root mass: 135-200 g. Yield: 340-880 q/ha. Good for processing and storage. Root crops are large, juicy and sweet.
Planting onions in the fall (before winter) Photo reviews description of the characteristics of varieties Sortovedru
In the "arsenal" of each gardener there is a whole stock of agricultural practices, which can be conditionally divided into mandatory and optional. The former include those without which the cultivation of vegetables is almost never complete - planting, watering, weeding, fertilizing, etc. And the latter - such methods of agricultural technology, which, oddly enough, can be compared with good habits: theoretically, they are not necessary, because it seems possible to do without them, but when used correctly, they bring not only benefits, but also beneficial advantages. Such “good habits” of an experienced gardener, for example, can be called the use of crop rotation and green manure on the site, as well as sowing / planting vegetables before winter. Agree, unfortunately, not every amateur gardener is “interested” in regular crop rotation control in combination with sowing green manure, but such reasonable agricultural technology allows you to significantly increase productivity and reduce the likelihood of diseases and pests on the site. The same applies to the winter sowing of vegetables, which makes it possible to harvest in early spring - during the period of vitamin deficiency, and "save" on watering / weeding during autumn and spring work. Traditionally, experienced gardeners have always sown greens (parsley, dill, lettuce, spinach), radishes, beets and carrots before winter, but in the last few years, onion sets have also been added to them.
It must be said that many owners of household and summer cottages treat the autumn sowing of vegetables, to put it mildly, with distrust. Not only that, due to unpredictable weather conditions, the seeds can either start growing early (during a long autumn) or freeze out (during a harsh winter), it is also likely that beets and carrots can “go into bloom”; and the resulting early harvest is stored, as a rule, not too long. When growing onions, most amateur gardeners also prefer to adhere to the traditional scheme: in the spring they plant (sow) sevok to get a turnip crop by autumn, and early spring greens are grown exclusively from perennial varieties - multi-tiered, batun and chives, which grow up to 5 - 6 years in one place, they winter with absolutely no problems, during the growing season they give several crops and in terms of care they manage with a minimum of attention. However, as the practice of the last decade has shown, the autumn planting of onion sets has a lot of advantages even in comparison with the traditional cultivation of this crop and, oddly enough, often improves the attitude towards it even of those amateur gardeners who annually experience problems with growing onions ( for example, in the case of irregular watering in a summer cottage or a constant invasion of diseases and pests).
Firstly, when planting before winter, there is no need to store planting material for onion sets, which is especially important for the smallest bulbs - wild oats (less than 1 cm in diameter), which often dry out and deteriorate after wintering in a warm room. With proper autumn planting, they are not only well preserved, but next year they grow to the size that spring planting of larger planting material usually gives (a bulb 1.5 - 3 cm in diameter). Considering that at spring planting oatmeal always produces a crop of more “modest” sizes; winter planting can be considered a definitely more profitable option for growing it. As for the planting in the fall of other categories of onion sets - the first (1 - 1.5 cm), the second (1.5 - 3 cm) and the sample (more than 3 cm in diameter) - it is recommended to resort to it exclusively for growing onion greens or getting seeds. Since, in comparison with wild oats, such planting material in early spring gives more powerful greens, this is definitely beneficial in the case of the sale of such products. But, alas, due to the high tendency to shoot during autumn planting, the “traditional” high-quality crop from such bulbs is most likely lost, although it becomes possible to obtain seeds (nigella) early, which, by the way, can also be successfully sown before winter.
Secondly, among the varieties of onion sets, there are those specially bred for autumn planting / sowing - the so-called "winter". Moreover, if varieties of other vegetable crops for winter sowing are selected only on the basis of “short-day plants”, winter varieties of onion sets are characterized not only by the ability to form a high-quality crop under short and medium day conditions, but also by excellent frost resistance (up to minus 15 ° C in snowless winters and minus 25 °C under snow cover), as well as high resistance to bolting, pests and diseases. The following varieties and hybrids have such indispensable properties: Elodi, Senshui Yellow, Buffalo, Avanti, Augusta, Radar, Kip-Vell, Sturon, Danilovsky, Odintsovets ”, “Stuttgarten Riesen”, “Ibis F1”, “Imago F1”, “Balstar F1”, “Extra Early Gold F1”, “Music F1”, “Wolf F1”, “Radar F1”, “Panther F1” and others . And in the conditions of Siberia, the best results are shown by the varieties Ellan, Strigunovsky, Swift, Arzamas Local, Extra Ativ Parisien, Bessonovsky, Radar, Malakoff, Siberian Early, Siberia F1”, “Echo F1”, etc. Long-day varieties and hybrids are completely unsuitable for winter planting / sowing, which, under similar conditions, experience poor wintering, abundant bolting, as well as a delay in the development and ripening of the crop.
Thirdly, the winter planting of onion sets allows you to get greens already in early May, and high-quality bulbs - at the end of June, while with traditional spring planting these dates are shifted by 1 - 1.5 months - at least to June and August. And note: unlike other vegetable crops, an early harvest of winter onions is able to withstand long-term winter storage with the same success as turnips grown in the usual way (during spring planting / sowing).
Less noticeable, but no less significant advantages of winter onion sets include the fact that planted in autumn it needs much less watering, since in favorable weather it has time to develop normally solely due to precipitation and melt water, even in remote and rarely irrigated summer cottages. plots. In addition, winter onions form a dense root lobe on the bottom during the winter, which protects it from onion fly damage in spring, and the early ripening of plants, in turn, “provides” protection from downy mildew. As for saving time, this advantage can be considered relative, since some owners do not have enough time either in spring or in autumn. But with regard to saving the planting area before winter, many can be helped out, because on a bed freed from winter onions, you can grow another crop of early ripening vegetables before autumn.
Speaking about planting onions in the fall, one cannot but say that winter onion sets can be grown in two ways - from a small fraction (oatmeal) and from seeds. The agricultural technology of both methods is somewhat different, so it is worth considering the features of each of them. Oatmeal (as well as larger planting material) for a successful wintering should take root, but not germinate, and therefore it is planted at the same time as winter garlic - 3-4 weeks before the onset of stable frosts. These dates approximately fall on the period when frosts begin (at night the temperature regularly drops to minus 3 ° C), but the soil has not yet had time to freeze. Considering that in different regions weather conditions are set differently, to determine the timing of the autumn planting of onions in Siberia, it is recommended to focus on the end of September - the beginning of October, in central Russia - at the end of October - the beginning of November, and in the south - November. Onions should not be planted at an earlier date, since only 2 to 3 weeks are enough for rooting, after which, when planted early, it begins to grow and jeopardizes future successful wintering. It is less risky to plant it a little (!) Later, but on a bed, previously covered with a dry leaf, which somewhat delays the rapid freezing of the soil. Please note: small onion sets planted in autumn do not need to be watered, but before planting, even oatmeal is strongly recommended to be sorted into small (up to 0.5 cm) and large (from 0.5 to 1 cm) fractions in order to maximally "align" shoots in spring.
As for the cultivation of winter onions from nigella, a significant difference of this method is that the plants must go for wintering already grown up - with 3 - 4 leaves (diameter of the root collar 5 - 7 mm). With this in mind, the very procedure for sowing seeds will have to be carried out at the end of summer (mid-end of August), and then, if there is insufficient rainfall, periodic watering of the sown beds will also be provided until late autumn. In comparison with the above method, growing winter onions from seeds looks more laborious and has more disadvantages. Firstly, many owners do not like the need for watering in the fall, when most crops no longer need it. Secondly, there is a high probability of incorrect calculation of sowing dates: too early increases the likelihood of shooting, and if it is too late, the plants do not have time to form enough greenery and overwinter worse. Thirdly, with this method, onions are susceptible to diseases and pests (and weeds) in the same way as with ordinary spring sowing. Nevertheless, experienced gardeners have learned to cope with all these shortcomings and even find their advantages in this method of growing winter onions. To combat diseases and pests, they compact or plant onion crops with rows of carrots, marigolds and calendula, which repel onion flies and bears, and apply fungicide treatments. In order not to be mistaken with the timing of sowing, it is carried out in several visits, and in case of failure with the first batch, all of it is left for seeds. The main advantage is that already in the fall, lovers of autumn onion sowing have vitamin greens on the table, and in the spring, thinning out thickened crops, in addition to greens, they also get hardened seedlings, which are successfully transplanted to a new place. And, of course, by the beginning of June, they also harvest a fully ripened crop of turnip onions.
If planting winter onions in the fall is a new thing for you, then regardless of the chosen method of growing, prepare a place for this crop in advance - at least a month in advance. It should not be shaded, with a slight slope or on an elevation (without stagnant moisture after autumn precipitation or spring-winter snowmelt), with sandy or loamy, non-acid nutrient soil. Carrots are usually considered the best predecessor for onions, although it will also develop well after other crops (legumes, greens, early cabbage, potatoes, etc.), but only if they were collected no later than mid-July. On the open places it is advisable to foresee preventive snow retention measures in advance (sow sunflower, corn, calendula, etc. backstage across the direction of the prevailing winds) in case of a too harsh winter, as well as the possibility of covering the beds with agrofiber or a light layer of mulch.
Soil preparation should begin with harvesting the predecessor and controlling weeds. The earth needs to be deeply loosened with a pitchfork, remove the roots of weeds and apply fertilizer for digging at the rate of 2-3 kg of humus and 2 tablespoons of superphosphate for each square meter area. If there is no humus, you can enrich the soil with mineral fertilizers - use 20–25 g of superphosphate and 10–15 g of potassium salt or 30 g of ecofoska per square meter of area. After digging, the bed must be carefully leveled and left for a month to shrink the earth.
For sowing onion seeds (at the end of August), you need to make shallow grooves (2 - 3 cm) with a row spacing of 35 - 40 cm and sow at the rate of approximately 35 - 40 seeds per linear meter. High density is recommended only if the seeds have poor germination. After the procedure, the grooves should be carefully filled and compacted, and then, in dry weather, at least once a week, water one and a half and, with the emergence of seedlings, regularly loosen the aisles and remove weeds. Plants ripe for winter care (bulbs with 3-4 leaves) are recommended to be lightly spudded for the winter (by 5-7 cm) to protect the bulbs from bulging and freezing, and organize easy shelter of the beds with spruce branches, dry tops and other improvised material for snow retention . In the event of a threat of a harsh winter, the use of agrofibre (white, light and breathable) is very effective, but it is necessary to cover the beds with it immediately before the onset of frost, since too early shelter, alas, negatively affects onion wintering. In the spring, even before the start of the growing season (as soon as the ground begins to thaw), the mulching material (or agrofibre) should be removed and the compacted soil should be loosened. In the future, until the beginning of summer, caring for beds of winter onions is no different from the traditional care of onions planted in spring, and includes, as necessary, weed control, pests and diseases, fertilization and regular watering. Please note: in order to obtain a high-quality crop of turnip onions, the density of its sowing after leaving wintering should be no more than 12 - 15 bulbs per linear meter, therefore, with greater thickening in early spring, it is recommended to thin out the crops as soon as possible, and use the uprooted plants for greens or in as seedlings for spring plantings.
For planting a small fraction of onion sets in autumn (in September - November), soil preparation should be carried out in the same way, but watering, as mentioned above, is not necessary. Note: before winter, onion sets are recommended to be planted a little deeper than during spring planting - to a depth of 4-5 cm. 2 - 3 onions with the same interval and a distance of 2 - 3 cm between the bulbs in the nest. After the procedure, the furrows should be covered with loose soil, and already with the onset of frost, cover the bed with a layer of light mulch - plant tops, wood shavings, coniferous litter, spruce branches, etc. - and, if necessary, attach large branches from above for snow retention. Note: peat and sawdust are not entirely suitable for these purposes, since the mulch from such materials is compacted, accumulates too much moisture and thaws very slowly in the spring, which in turn delays the warming of the soil and the start of the growing season. In the future, active care for winter onions planted in this way begins only in early spring with the removal of mulch to warm the soil as soon as possible, and with the emergence of seedlings, it includes “standard” weeding, watering and fertilizing plantings.
Despite the fact that the technology of planting onions before winter is somewhat different from the traditional one, of course, it cannot be called too complicated. The main rules: do not plant onions in the lowlands so that they do not rot due to wetting, do not cover too early so as not to provoke dampening, and do not overfeed them with nitrogen fertilizers in autumn so as not to stimulate the active growth of greens to the detriment of the main turnip crop. As practice has confirmed, the correct approach to this agrotechnical technique with a reasonable choice of varieties gives the gardener the opportunity to "regulate" the process of growing onions and the timing of obtaining both greenery and a high-quality turnip crop and planting material (seeds and fine fraction of onion sets) at lower organizational costs irrigation and control of diseases and pests. Make planting and sowing onions in the fall at least temporarily your “good habit” and soon you will not only not want to give it up, but will recommend it to all your friends.
Leek from sowing to harvesting My garden garden Piggy bank of summer experience
- 1 Onion without bulb
- 1.1 What is useful pearl prince
- 2 Choosing a variety for our garden
- 2.1 Early maturing
- 2.2 Mid-season
- 2.3 Late ripening
- 3 The life of a young onion
- 3.1 Helpful Hints
- 4 Planting leeks in the garden
- 5 Competent care is the basis of a rich harvest
- 6 Harvest and storage
Hello dear readers!
And 70 years ago, leeks were unknown to us. Although leek has long been a familiar, well-studied culture for mankind.
The ancient Egyptian manuscripts that archaeologists have recently unearthed talked about the diet of the pyramid builders, which included this culture.
- Where exactly the leek came from, scientists still have not figured out, they suggest that its historical homeland is the regions of Mesopotamia (the territory of modern Iran and Iraq).
But even now, leeks are not very common in our country and household plots, although it is a very healthy plant.
And all because, probably, it has a rather long growing season (150-200 days), therefore it is very laborious in the growing process, since it must be planted through seedlings.
This scares many summer residents, because tomato seedlings need to be grown, and peppers, and then onions.
But still, leeks are worth planting. After all, it has a lot of useful properties, excellent taste.
Onion without bulb
Leek (or pearl onion) is a biennial herbaceous plant, a close relative of onions.
But, unlike its counterpart, the leek does not have such a large bulb; its long leaves and flexible stem are used for food.
Leek is just a gigantic vegetable, its strong belt-like leaves can rise almost a meter above the bed.
Near the ground, they join into a bundle and go to the depths. If we dig into the earth, we will see a thickened false stem, or "white leg", of the purest pearl white color.
This "white leg" is the main edible part of the plant, the most valuable part.
The leek begins to form a powerful root system in the first year of life, simultaneously with the development of the roots, it grows a whole fan of flat, long leaves.
The bulb of this culture is also present, but it is small in size, sometimes it is not at all.
Another characteristic feature of the leek is that it does not have a dormant period and it produces new leaves until late autumn, without stopping growth.
In the second year after planting, the onion forms a flower-bearing arrow. In mid-summer, this arrow produces many buds, which soon turn into fragrant whitish, pinkish or purple flowers.
Bumblebees, bees and other flower flies flock to this fragrance in large quantities.
Onion honey has an amazing emerald color and does not crystallize in honeycombs for a long time.
By the end of September, leek seeds ripen, which resemble strong faceted grains of charcoal.
If you want to stock up on your leek seeds, then cut off the seed umbels, tie them into bunches and hang them for ripening (until the seeds are fully ripe).
What is useful pearl prince
Leek is liked by many people; in its taste, it practically does not differ from its fellow, green onion.
But few people know what this plant has beneficial features much higher in performance than onion brothers.
Medicinal properties. Do you want to know what diseases pearl onions help get rid of?
- Joint diseases. Leek has a high content of sulfur compounds. Due to this, the daily use of onion culture stops inflammation in the bones and joints.
- Anemia. Onions have a lot of iron - an important substance for the synthesis of hemoglobin. Helps to restore its level and increased content of vitamin C in the leek.
- Problems of the gastrointestinal tract. Leek contributes to the settlement of vital microorganisms in the human intestine. They form a healthy flora and reduce inflammation.
- High cholesterol. Pearl onion prevents the appearance of cholesterol plaques, its regular use lowers these figures.
- Diseases of the lungs. Leek has a lot of essential oils that have a calming effect on the body. Pearl onions are especially good for flu prevention.
- Tumors of the prostate and intestines. Leek has a very rare substance in its composition - quercetin. This plant flavonoid inhibits the development of various tumors.
- Eye problems. If you suffer from poor eyesight, leek will help you. Its composition is replete with elements that have a beneficial effect on visual acuity.
Traditional medicine successfully uses pearl onions for problems with the liver and gallbladder. Also, the plant has a diuretic property and is able to free the body from toxins and toxins.
Leek damage. Leek has no clearly expressed contraindications. But doctors still advise careful use of the plant (especially fresh) in case of serious diseases of the intestines and stomach.
Refrain from eating leeks if you have low blood sugar - onions can lower it even more.
Gastronomic delights. At a young age, you can eat both the lower part of the leek and the upper part of the leek.
Green young leek is good in salads and soups. Vegetable stew, if leek is added to it, becomes fragrant, sweetness and tender sharpness appear in it.
As the plant grows, the upper leaves coarsen and only the lower part of the onion, the false stem, is eaten.
Leek is the most valuable dietary product.
Choosing a variety for our garden
Thanks to the work of breeders, many varieties are represented on the modern market. All types of pearl onions are divided according to the ripening period.
Let's choose leeks, the varieties of which are presented in the best selection in terms of taste.
early ripe
Pearl onions with an early ripening period are considered the most productive among their counterparts.
It will be possible to collect it already 130-150 days after sowing. But be aware that it won't last long.
♦ Goliath. The culture is medium in height (the bleached part of the onion is about 25-30 cm). This beauty can be consumed fresh or dried. But Goliath requires close attention to himself in care - his immune qualities are weakly expressed.
♦ Kilim. Leek of this variety ripens 7-10 days later than other early-ripening species, it is universal in purpose and has a denser and shorter stem (its length barely reaches 20-25 cm).
♦ Vesta. Particularly suitable for growing in the middle region. The white legs are long, can grow up to 50 cm. The taste of this pearl onion is slightly sharp, but Vesta's immune qualities are very well developed.
♦ Columbus. This is the highest culture among early ripening varieties. Long leaves can grow up to 80 cm, and the weight of the leg reaches 400 g. Onions have excellent taste.
Mid-season
Vegetables with average ripening rates are not so productive, but they are superior to early-ripening varieties in terms of agrotechnical qualities.
Mid-season species ripen in 150-180 days. The crop is well preserved (it can be saved until March).
These varieties have excellent frost-resistant qualities (withstand cold down to -7 ° C). During colder winters (with an average temperature below -15 ° C), mid-season varieties need shelter.
♦ Casimir. Leek of German selection. Its onion is very weakly expressed and may be completely absent. But the bleached part is of excellent quality, has a length of up to 25 cm and a diameter of about 5 cm.
♦ Camus. The fruit of the labors of Czech breeders. Not very long (only up to 18 cm) bleached part and a slightly pronounced bulb. Sometimes the leaves can take on a purple hue. The variety is able to resist fungal diseases.
♦ Bastion. The "earliest" of the mid-season species (the crop is ready for harvest in 150-160 days). Onion leaves have a blue-green or gray-green color, the bleached part grows up to 30-35 cm.
♦ Tango. The most productive variety of pearl onions. It has high cold hardiness and disease resistance. The length of the bleached part is up to 15 cm, the onion is mild.
late ripening
The slowest varieties of pearl onions (they ripen from 180 days after planting). In terms of yield, they are similar to mid-season species.
Late-ripening varieties are distinguished by tougher leaves and a pronounced sharpness of taste. They can be stored until summer.
♦ Asgeos. Leek of Russian selection. It is excellent for cultivation in the harsh conditions of Siberia. Dark green leaves can grow up to 70 cm. The bulb is weakly expressed, its bleached part barely reaches 20 cm, but the weight of an adult plant can vary within 400 g.
♦ Greywing. This species is distinguished by a plump bleached part. The leaves are rich green with a slight blue. It tolerates winters well (not too harsh) and has a mildly spicy taste.
♦ Elephant. Variety bred by Czech breeders. The plant is able to grow up to 80-90 cm in length and reach a weight of 200 g. The taste of Elefant is specific, quite sharp.
♦ Mercury. Pearl onion with leaves of a rich green color and up to 25 cm long. The mass of the plant is not so large (about 150 g), but with good care it can reach 200 g. This variety is resistant to various viral diseases.
The life of a young bow
Successful cultivation of leeks can be done in two ways:
We will consider here the seedling method, as the most common.
Getting healthy and strong leek seedlings at home is a bit of a hassle, but not at all difficult. We need to arm ourselves with soil, a growing container and plastic wrap.
Before telling how to grow leeks, let's decide on the conditions in which young seedlings will be grown.
The timing of sowing seeds depends on this:
- The second half of February - March (seeds are planted in seedling boxes and kept on the window).
- Mid-April (sowing is done in a heated greenhouse).
- End of April (on prepared beds under the film).
A pearl onion has about 10-12 hours of daylight. Therefore, if you are going to sow it in February, organize additional illumination.
♦ Seed preparation. Before sowing leeks, the seeds must be dipped in hot water for a few seconds at a temperature of about + 45 ° C, then immediately cooled by pouring cold water.
After “bathing”, the seeds are placed inside a damp, warm gauze and left to germinate in a warm place (at a temperature of + 25 ° C). After a few days, they will begin to sprout.
- Know that leek seeds can be stored for up to 3 years, the main thing is to keep them in a warm, dry place, avoiding sudden changes in humidity and temperature.
♦ Seeding. Sowing leek is best done in pots filled with moist soil. We arrange the seeds in rows (the distance between the rows should be about 5 cm), the depth of the grooves is 1-1.5 cm.
Seeds are sprinkled on top of the earth and cover the pots with polyethylene. Our boxes should be kept warm (from +23°C to +24°C), in a well-lit place.
When the first timid sprouts appear, the film must be removed and the temperature of the content should be lowered:
- During the day from + 15 ° С to + 17 ° С.
- At night from +10° С to +12° С.
In this mode, young leek seedlings will spend about a week. Then we slightly increase the temperature of the content: during the day from + 17 ° C to + 21 ° C, at night from + 12 ° C to + 14 ° C. This regime should be maintained until the very end of seedling cultivation.
- Compliance with such temperature conditions is very important for the future harvest. Too high a temperature during the growing period of seedlings is fraught with the fact that in the future the leek will form a flower arrow in the first year of development (and not in the second, as expected).
After a month, we need to thin out the leek crops, trying to keep the distance between plants about 2-3 cm in one row. Seedlings dive into small (4 cm in diameter) pots.
But it is best to sow the seeds as infrequently as possible in order to avoid picking. Leek seedlings do not tolerate picking well (in my experience) and are delayed in development for a long time.
Our seedlings will be ready to move into adult living conditions only when they reach three or four true leaves, which will be approximately 15-18 cm long and have a stem diameter of about 0.8 cm.
This usually takes about 8 weeks.
Planting leeks in the garden
The best place for growing leeks will be light loamy areas. When preparing the beds, apply compost to the intended place in the fall (5-6 kg per m²).
In the spring, you can add a little compost or humus to the plots (about 2-3 kg per m²).
No need to dig up the beds!
- The best predecessors for leeks: cucumbers, tomatoes, potatoes, cabbage and legumes.
Leek is planted on the ridges in the month of May. In front of her, in young seedlings, it is necessary to shorten the roots and leaves by 1/3 of the length.
Vegetable roots can be coated with mash (a mixture of cow dung and clay in equal amounts). This method will help the plant to quickly and firmly settle in its new place.
Before landing in the selected area, we prepare grooves deep enough, up to 15-16 cm, pour a little ash on their bottom, mix and spill well.
We lay out the seedlings in the prepared grooves one at a time. Then we carefully sprinkle the roots with soil on ½ of the groove and water it, but a little, since the earth is already well spilled.
Thus, our seedlings turn out to be, as it were, in a trench that will protect it from the cold wind.
If the weather is still cool, you can cover the plantings with any covering material.
For pearl onions, it is better to use the following planting patterns:
- Double row. Distance between crops 15-20cm, row spacing 30-35cm.
- Multi-row. The distance between seedlings is 10-15 cm, and the row spacing is 20-30 cm.
Advice. If you leave more space between the rows, you can plant carrots, onions, beets, cabbage, celery and garden strawberries. These cultures get along well with him.
Competent care is the basis of a rich harvest
To grow strong leeks, care must be taken with special attention and care. After all, the yield, thickness and size of the leaves depend on its quality.
♦ Proper watering. Water is an important basis for the proper development of leeks.
Leek requires abundant and regular watering. Moisture he needs moisture from the moment of planting young seedlings and throughout the entire growing season.
But it’s still not worth watering the onion too actively - observe a reasonable measure.
♦ Loosening. Another important procedure for good development leek. By loosening the soil, we give the plant the necessary oxygen and stimulate the penetration of life-giving moisture to the roots.
Loosen pearl onions should be every week or two. During the event, constantly sprinkle fresh earth to the main stem of the vegetable. Start pouring fresh soil after the stem diameter reaches 0.5-0.7 cm.
♦ Hilling. Hilling onion plantings should begin after the leek grows, gradually adding soil to the stems from the walls of our trenches.
Spud your pearl prince every 2 weeks. This will allow the onion to grow a longer stalk with a nice bleached part.
In the future, so that the soil does not get into leaf wraps, earthing up can be replaced with high mulching of plantings with dry grass or wrapping the stems with thick paper.
♦ Top dressing. Many gardeners do not feed leeks.
But, if you want to get the maximum yield of the most delicious, juicy, sweet leek, still spend your time on top dressing.
It is worth holding events 2-3 times per season, alternating organic and mineral fertilizers. The first top dressing is usually done three weeks after planting.
Best suited for leek dressing solutions from:
- Cow dung (1 part mullein to 8 parts water).
- Bird droppings (for 20 parts of water, 1 part of droppings).
♦ Down with the weeds. Of course, it is necessary to destroy the weeds in a timely manner, which strive to settle on the onion beds.
Better refuse to use chemicals in weeding - because we need an environmentally friendly product! So, drive away laziness and regularly free plantings from weeds with your own hands.
Harvesting and storage
So, our bow is ripe. Harvesting is a troublesome, but at the same time, joyful activity.
How can we better manage the wealth we have grown?
First of all, we carefully dig out part of the crop from the soil, trying not to get the earth in the area between the leaves of the plant. We clean it from the ground and partially cut the roots (without damaging the bottom of the bulb).
There is no need to cut the leaves - their pruning will lead to premature drying of the vegetable. This part of the onion crop can be sent for storage.
You can store it in the following ways:
♦ Fresh look. When fresh, leeks are great for keeping healthy in the sand, in the refrigerator or on the balcony.
- In sand. Vegetables should be placed there immediately after harvesting. Take a box, pour sand at its bottom with a layer of 5 cm. Onions should be placed there vertically, another 15 cm layer of wet river sand is poured between them. Leek can be stored there for up to six months, provided that the air temperature is around zero degrees.
- In fridge. Choose the strongest plants, clean them and trim the roots. Then they should be cooled (without packaging) to a temperature of -2 ° C to +2 ° C. After that, you need to quickly pack the chilled onions in perforated plastic bags. Up to 8 leeks can be placed in each bag. Under these conditions, the leek is stored for up to 5 months.
- On the balcony. If it is well covered, then it will easily endure slight frosts. And even if it freezes a little, it doesn’t matter, because even when frozen, the leek does not lose its taste.
Plants stored fresh should be checked regularly. Remove all dried or stunted stems immediately, otherwise you risk losing the entire crop.
♦ Freezing. We wash the peeled onions well and dry them. Then cut into slices of 3-4 cm and blanch for 4-5 minutes.
Cool, put in food plastic bags or plastic containers and place in the freezer. We freeze at a temperature of minus 18 degrees.
I have frozen leeks without blanching.
♦ We dry for the winter. Dried leeks are mainly used for seasoning. You can dry it in the oven or electric dryer.
When dried, the leek completely loses its slight bitterness and acquires a sweetish taste. It can be safely added to every meat, vegetable or fish dish, the taste of which will noticeably improve.
We will leave a few plants to winter in the garden. Some of them can be dug up in May for food, and the other part can be left to get their seeds.
Landings can be insulated with dry peat, spruce branches.
Interesting! While the leek sleeps during wintering, the content of vitamins in it not only does not decrease, but, on the contrary, increases.
Now, knowing some of the secrets of growing leeks, I hope that you will boldly take up the cultivation of this interesting, and, most importantly, the most useful vegetable.
Traditionally, I suggest watching a few videos from Yulia Minyaeva on this topic.
See you soon, dear readers!
Proper seedling. Soil preparation and containers for seedlingsLet me introduce you - oat rootHow to defeat weeds
Without the addition of onions, it is impossible to imagine some dishes. He is met in every salad, herring is decorated with rings. Taking into account the main characteristics of the vegetable, onions, like everything else, are divided into varieties. But experienced housewives prefer to choose onions according to their taste characteristics - sweetness, spiciness, and so on. We present you a variety of onion sets for Siberia, the Urals, the Moscow region description and photo.
1. Arzamas - the variety has been known for a long time, time-tested. Grown through sets. Bulbs are medium in size, from forty to eighty grams. Ripening occurs after three and a half months. Perfectly preserved in the winter.
2. Buran is a late-ripening variety. It is grown in a two-year cycle. The variety is universal, pungent in taste, the bulbs are dense. The variety keeps well. Susceptible to perepporosis disease. Differs in stability of crops. The bulbs are large and even.
3. Boterus - medium early onion variety. Grows in one year. The bulbs are large, flat-rounded, weighing up to eighty grams. The taste is spicy. Scales inside white. Recommended variety for bookmarking for storage.
4. Myachkovsky 300 - one of the representatives of early varieties, matures in three months. Bulbs are flat, medium density. The variety is peninsular, universal. Grown by seed method in one year, perfectly stored.
5. Siberian Annual - ripeness occurs two and a half months after planting the sevkom. It takes a little more time to grow from seeds - up to a hundred days. The bulbs are flat or slightly rounded, yellow in color. Planting sevkom gives onions weighing up to two hundred grams! The variety is resistant to the formation of arrows, it is perfectly stored.
6. The Black Prince is a mid-season representative. Planted in winter and spring. The bulbs are flat, rounded, hang up to hundreds of grams. Differs in universal appointment, scales of a dark - violet shade. The harvest is up to fifty tons per hectare.
7. Exhibition - medium-late onion variety, large up to 1 kg., Productive and cold-resistant. Able to give a good harvest in various climatic conditions. The taste is very juicy and sweetish, resistant to disease.
8. Timiryazevsky - one of the old varieties, but continues to be in demand. Early maturing, sevkom is grown. Scales are white. Maturation is influenced by weather conditions.
9. Bessonovsky local - early variety, sharp in taste. Medium nested 4-5 bulbs per nest. The period from feather germination to its complete lodging is up to two and a half months. Can be stored up to nine months. Mass of bulbs 50 gr. Excellent for growing greens.
10. Moldavian - a representative of the mid-season group. Ripening occurs after three and a half months. Individual bulbs hang up to two hundred grams. The scales are colored purple.
11. Carmen MS - one of the new onion varieties, the scales of which are painted purple. Slightly spicy in taste. Bulbs of medium density, flat - rounded, weight 100 - 120 gr. Sevkom is grown in a two-year culture. Bulbs in the nest 2 - 3.
12. Sturon - Dutch variety, mid-season, productive. Differs in sharpness and long storage, it is steady against various diseases. Recommended for breeding in the northern regions for consumption and commercial purposes. One - large nesting bulbs weighing 120 - 180 gr.
13. Hercules F 1 - another representative from Holland, medium early, has a high yield. The scales are dry and dense, yellow-brown. The weight of the bulbs is from one hundred to one hundred and thirty grams. Onions have a strong root system, perfectly tolerate the dry period.
14. Bamberger is a representative of the German selection. Recommended for forcing on a green feather, medium ripening. Differs in the elongated type of bulbs.
15. Strigunovsky local - domestic variety of the Belgorod region. Grown from sevka. From seeds - with winter sowing. Productive, early ripening with a sharp taste. Bulbs average rounded weight 50 - 80 gr.
16. Stuttgarter Risen - early ripe variety 95 days. Annual cultivation from seeds, biennial from sevka. Bulbs are large 120 - 150 gr., with a spicy taste. Shelf life is long, until late spring, with the preservation of commercial qualities.
Any of the listed varieties not only decorates dishes, but is also a “home doctor”, relieving colds.
veselyi-yrozhainik.ru
Onion sets: planting and care in the climatic conditions of Siberia
Onions that are grown on their own plot are much better than store-bought ones. But what if the harsh climate of Siberia does not allow you to get a good harvest? In our article, we will tell you a few secrets about how to plant and grow family onions in Siberia.
The best onion varieties for Siberia
List of the best varieties of onion sets for Siberia:
Optimal timing for landing in harsh conditions
Sevok in Siberia is planted in the spring, when the top layer of soil warms up to 10 ° C. Usually this is done in late April - early May, before the 10th.
Important! It is impossible to plant onions in soil that has not yet warmed up - this will lead to increased shooting.
If you plant sevok later than these dates, then due to low humidity, the harvest will be poor.
planting material requirements
The sevok should be about the same size. Planting material should not have rotten and moldy bulbs. And also they should not be massively sprouted. 
Preparatory work before boarding
Before planting onion sets in Siberia, it is necessary to prepare the site and planting material.
Site preparation
Onion is a photophilous culture, so the place for planting it should be well lit. It is necessary to prepare the site in the fall: dig a shovel on a bayonet and make compost.
Important! It is better not to apply organic fertilizers to the soil in the spring before planting - this will lead to the rest of the underground part of the onion, and only the above-ground part will develop.
In the spring, the bed should be fertilized with mineral fertilizers. Contribute to 1 sq. m ammonium nitrate (15 g), double superphosphate (30 g), potassium sulfate (30 g). If the soil is acidic, then in autumn lime or wood ash is added to it (0.5 l per 1 sq. M). 
Sewing preparation
Several ways to prepare sevka:
- In 5 liters of water pour 2 tbsp. l. salt. In this solution, soak the bulbs for a day. After that, you need to withstand them for 15 minutes. in a light solution of potassium permanganate. Plant them in the ground without drying.
- Sevok is heated for 10 hours in water at a temperature of 40 ° C. It is necessary to constantly add hot water. After that, it is treated with growth stimulants. To prevent damage by powdery mildew, the seedlings are dipped in a solution of copper sulphate or manganese.
- If there is no time to warm up the bulbs, then you can lower them into water at a temperature of 55 ° C for 15 minutes, and then immediately into cold water for the same time. Next, disinfect with potassium permanganate.
- Onions are dried for 10-20 days at a temperature of 25 ° C to prevent fungal infections.
Scheme and planting depth
Seeds are sorted by size before planting.
Landing pattern:
- sets with a diameter of less than 1 cm are planted at a distance of about 5 cm;
- if the bulbs are 1.5 cm, then the distance is increased by 8 cm;
- if the diameter of the onion exceeds 2 cm, then plant it at a distance of 10 cm.
If you place the sevok more often, then it is poorly ventilated and there is a risk of disease. 
When the sevok was loaded and tightly compressed with earth, it is necessary to mulch the beds with straw, peat, sawdust.
Features of care
Onion care does not require special skills.
Watering
In the early stages, regular watering is needed. Depending on the weather, plants are watered once a week, using 7 liters of water per 1 sq. m. During the ripening of the bulbs, watering should be reduced. 
Watch out for appearance plants: bluish-white feathers bent at the ends indicate a lack of moisture, and pale green leaves indicate waterlogging. Watering should be stopped 2 weeks before harvest.
Weeding and loosening
The beds with this crop are loosened even before shoots have appeared. Deepen 3 cm into the soil. So that a dense soil crust does not form, loosening is carried out every 2 weeks. Regular weeding of beds will help get rid of weeds. 
Fertilization
When 3-4 leaves appeared, then the plants are fed for the first time. Nitroammofoska is added to the rows (25 g per bucket of water). Then fertilize after a month. Superphosphate (20 g) and potassium salt (20 g) are added, diluted in a bucket of water.
Control of possible pests and diseases
The risk of plant damage is reduced if proper preparation sevka. When diseases appear, it can be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid, observing an interval of 2 weeks. 
Onions are good for consumption only a week after the treatment. When an onion fly appears, the rows can be treated with a solution of sodium chloride (100 g per 10 liters of water). Do this when the plants reach 7-10 cm in height. The procedure should be repeated after 4 days.
Harvest and storage
Harvest when new feathers have already stopped growing, and the old ones dry up and begin to spread along the ground. Cleaning is carried out in dry weather.
The bulbs are dried in the sun, and then in the attic for about a crescent. Bulbs can be stored with a thin, dried neck. 
Cellars and basements where the air temperature will be around 0 ° C will be the best place for storage. The bow is usually folded in wooden boxes, bags or nylon stockings.
Drawers should not be too deep. The height of the onion layer should be about 30 cm. So the vegetables will be stored longer.
The bow is very grateful: in response to your care, he will give bountiful harvest even in the harsh climate of Siberia.
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Onions in Siberia: how and when to plant sets and other varieties
FermoVed.ru » Vegetable growing » Onions » How to plant onion sets in Siberia
Growing vegetables on your own plot guarantees the availability of fresh and safe products. How to plant onion sets in Siberia? Climate features require different approaches to cultivation and selection of varieties. In the review, we will analyze the most proven and effective points in breeding a popular spice.
Onions in Siberia
Choose a site
Growing vegetables in harsh weather requires maximum attention from the gardener. One mistake will lead to the complete destruction of the crop, and even the most resistant varieties will not help. To avoid unnecessary trouble, the first step is to find a suitable place for vegetables.
Before planting onion sets in Siberia, you should know one of its characteristic features: the culture prefers well-lit areas - beds should be laid out in a sunny and ventilated sector of the garden. The plant does not tolerate acidic soils well, so they are alkalized with wood ash or lime in advance.
A place for vegetables has been prepared since autumn. Professionals dig up the territory with the subsequent introduction of organic fertilizers. In the spring, before starting work, minerals are added to the soil (in grams per 1 sq. M):
- potassium sulfate - 30;
- ammonium nitrate - 20;
- superphosphate - 40.
To avoid common diseases, it is worth remembering the rules of crop rotation. Gardeners do not advise planting onions for several years in a row in one place, as well as after carrots and garlic. Recommended predecessors are:
- cabbage;
- legumes;
- zucchini.
Before starting work, be sure to remove the remains of weeds and cultivated plants. Such care will protect against problems in the future. If the vegetables were sick at the site, then we advise you to pickle the soil in the fall.
Varieties
It will not work to grow very large turnips with seeds in a harsh cold climate. Greenhouse varieties are only suitable for feather cultivation. Professionals recommend using small sets.
Onion varieties for Siberia are strong plants that quickly form beautiful heads. Breeders tried and presented a lot of interesting vegetables. The most popular types:
- Yukont;
- Siberian annual;
- Black Prince;
- Siberia.
- Sterling F1;
- Daytona F1;
- Candy F1.
Before buying, you should pay attention to the shape and size of the heads. Too large most often give a lot of arrows, so it is recommended to purchase small and medium sets. Oblong onions will delight with round turnips, and flat varieties can boast of an ideal oval. It is important to carefully examine the material and read the description, and not choose products solely by the photo.
Sowing preparation
Cultivation of vegetables requires the right preliminary measures. When growing onion sets in Siberia, it is necessary to process the planting material. In this way, plants can be protected from common diseases.
In 5 liters of water add 2 tbsp. l. rock salt. Turnips are soaked in this liquid for 24 hours, then they are transferred to a weak solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes, after which they are immediately planted.
Fungal infections are the main scourge of onions, so a different method is used. Sevok is heated in water for 10 hours at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C, then disinfected for 15 minutes in a weak solution of copper sulphate. Before sowing, the material is sprayed with growth stimulants.
If there is no desire to warm the bulbs for a long time, they can be dipped for a quarter of an hour in water at a temperature of 55 ° C, then for the same time - in the cold. In the end, you need to treat with a solution of potassium permanganate.
spring work
When to plant onion sets in Siberia? In a harsh climate, several proven schemes are used, but a friendly full-fledged harvest can only be obtained during spring work. Small seed does not give arrows, so it is most often used for growing turnips.
May is the best month for agricultural work. Terms vary depending on the warming of the soil. The ground temperature during planting should not be less than 8°C.
Seed beds are divided according to the following scheme (in centimeters):
- width - 100;
- distance between rows - 15;
- distance between turnips - 10;
- depth - 2.
Before planting in spring, the earth is moistened, loosened and cleared of weeds. For disinfection, it is advised to pour boiling water over the wells, and postpone work for a day. After the activities are completed, the place is carefully mulched.
When growing with seeds, the deepening of the grains should not exceed 2 cm, while the distance is reduced to 1.5. The work takes place at the same time. In difficult climatic conditions, it will not be possible to grow full-fledged heads in one year. All shoots are used per pen.
winter onion
When is onion planted in Siberia? Some gardeners are experimenting with frost-resistant varieties and plant vegetables in the fall. To do this, select a material whose diameter does not exceed 3 cm.
The first decade of October is the best option for work. During these periods, the possibility of late germination is excluded. The bulbs are buried deeper, not forgetting about mulching with sawdust and straw after the event.
The Siberian climate makes it difficult to grow onions in autumn. To save winter planting from early cold weather, you can cover the seed beds with a thick layer of coniferous paws. The higher the fortification, the more securely the turnip is hidden. Such caution will protect the future crop from freezing in low-snow seasons. Perennial varieties perfectly adapt to winter, and in the spring they delight gardeners with young greenery.
Exhibition in Siberia. Exhibition is ready for landing in the ground.....
LEEK WINTER WITHOUT SHELTER IN SIBERIA!
Onions, cultivation. Exhibition in Siberia, warming up the seeds.....
top dressing
Before the appearance of the first leaves, work on the beds is limited to watering as the soil dries. After three feathers come out in place of the seeds, you can proceed to more serious procedures. Often at this stage, inexperienced gardeners make mistakes.
Fertilization is the main element in the care of onions. Depending on what is planned to be grown, certain preparations are used. Organics are used for growing on a feather, and minerals will become indispensable for obtaining large heads.
The first top dressing consists of phosphate and ammonia agents dissolved in warm water. Farmers recommend using ready-made specialized mixtures that are designed specifically for this crop. The second application is carried out in a month.
An excess of nutrients is just as harmful as a deficiency, so you can’t regularly “feed” onions. Before the procedure, the soil is loosened, irrigated, and only then fertilizers are used. If you use chemicals on dry ground, then you can burn the delicate roots.
Care
How to water onions? In the conditions of the Siberian climate, in the first month, procedures are carried out once a week, then the moisturizing periods are increased by half. In dry summers, it is allowed to slightly add the number of events.
The intensity of moisture is most monitored in the spring. During this period, the formation of the root system and the growth of greenery. An excess of fluid will lead to decay and disease, and a lack of it will lead to starvation. A negative fluctuation will definitely affect the taste of onions.
Loosening is an important element of care. The culture does not tolerate oxygen deficiency, so it is important to plant vegetables on soils that allow air to pass through well. Regular weeding will get rid of weeds. The best way to make the job easier is to mulch the garden bed.
Diseases and pests
Ignoring the rules of care causes infections to appear. Excess moisture in the soil and high temperature provoke the occurrence of Fusarium Donets. It infects one-year-old onions, as a result of which the stored turnips become soft and disappear.
Wet bacterial rot appears towards the end of the growing season. You can see the signs only when the head is cut. For several weeks, vegetables do not show symptoms of the disease, but then massively lose their presentation.
The rusty "mosaic" spots on the feathers are the spores of the fungus. As the infection develops, the formation of ground and underground parts stops. The pathogen overwinters in plant debris and is able to withstand the most squeaky frosts. Regular destruction of weeds and straw will help to secure the beds.
At the end of May, the onion fly lays its eggs under dry seed scales or in the soil next to the crops. A week later, hungry larvae penetrate the turnip and gradually eat the vegetable. During the summer, at least 2 generations of pests come out.
To get rid of the insect, spraying with "Metaphos" is carried out. As a preventive measure, it is recommended to plant carrots nearby. The specific aroma repels the fly.
You need to dig onions when new greens stop forming. During this period, the feathers dry and lie on the ground. A few weeks before the final procedures stop watering. This trick inhibits the accumulation of moisture, which provokes decay during storage.
The best early ripening variety for Siberia has time to fully mature and form protective scales. Before harvesting, it is recommended to dig one turnip. The presence of a thick neck and light husk indicates that the culture is not yet ready for storage.
Cleaning is carried out in dry windy weather. You need to dig carefully, trying not to damage the bulbs. Injuries and cuts negatively affect the keeping quality of products. You can not knock heads on the surface. All harvested crops are laid out to dry in the fresh air. To speed up the process, the vegetables are manually turned over for 2 weeks.
Planting onion seeds in Siberia is an important and responsible procedure. Our recommendations will help you decide on the choice of an early ripening variety and teach you how to plant seeds in harsh climatic conditions.
fermoved.ru
Siberian onion varieties
Previously, Siberians did not have the problem of choosing a variety of onion sets. Either they planted their own sevka, which, at least poorly, but survived until planting, or purchased it in the market or in a store.
The variety Strigunovsky or simply sevok usually appeared on sale, without varietal affiliation. Now gardeners are faced with a choice. Five varieties are proposed, and most are unfamiliar. This is Stuttgarter Risen, Shturon, Centurion, Orion, Red Baron.
What kind of bow under such loud names? Where is he from? Nobody wants to just bury money in the ground - you need to be sure that this set will not fail and a good harvest will be obtained. So get to know Mosselman, a Dutch agribusiness, Europe's leading company in all things to do with onions. The production of onion sets of the best varieties for sale in many European countries and the cultivation of ready-made onion turnips are the main areas of the company's work. Agrofirma Mosselman is a real Onion King: many years of practice, reliable varieties, high-quality seeds, regular customers from different countries. It is Mosselman (the company is named after its owner) that is the birthplace of the above-mentioned sevka offered to our Siberian gardeners.
Any of us knows how important storage mode is for sevka. Humidity is a little more than normal - it rots, a little less - it dries out, the temperature is not observed - it shoots. Losses - up to 50%! With sevk from Mosselman, such troubles do not happen. The optimal storage mode is observed from beginning to end, and high-quality sets allow you to get onion turnip as a selection. The specialists of the agrofirm must take into account the climatic features of the region and offer exactly those varieties that can give a good harvest in this particular region. This approach is beneficial primarily to the agricultural company Mosselman, not only to the customer. Regular customers who trust its products are necessary for further successful work.
Onion varieties for the harsh conditions of Siberia should be the most resistant. They must perform well on poor podzolic soils and mature quickly in a short summer. The entire crop should be successfully stored for a long winter. At the same time, unpretentiousness in relation to watering, weeding and top dressing is desirable, since not every gardener can devote a lot of time to care. And, of course, disease resistance. It is by these criteria that the varieties offered to you are selected.
Stuttgarter Riesen has been cultivated on Siberian soil for several years. Known and loved by many. Unpretentious, fruitful, long-term storage, resistant to diseases. The bulbs of Stuttgarter Riesen, rounded flat with yellow coloring of dry scales, came to their spicy taste to everyone who grew them. But the selection of bows of the Stuttgarter Riesen type continues. The form and color of the bulb, the friendliness of ripening, productivity, marketability, and keeping quality are being worked out further.
Much attention is paid to the development of varieties with increased resistance to diseases. Downy mildew (peronosporosis) bypasses Stuttgarter Riesen. But there are also such onion ailments as cervical rot, bacteriosis, and mosaic. Further improvement of the variety Stuttgarter Riesen in these areas led to the birth of varieties Shturon and Centurion. Noted: a more rounded shape of the bulb, a small bottom, which is convenient for consumption; perfect alignment of the bulbs (as in the selection). The ability to store, productivity, early maturity and unpretentiousness, of course, are not inferior to those of the Stuttgarter Riesen. Shturon is offered for the first time, but, judging by its origin, it promises to please gardeners.
Among the sharp onions with yellow dry scales and a rounded bulb is the Orion variety. Productive, with good disease resistance, Orion will definitely find its fans (bows over the beds) among gardeners.
For lovers of barbecue under onion marinade - the Red Baron variety. Better marinade than Red Baron onion, you can’t cook. Spicy taste, red dry scales and pink juicy ones! A great addition to salads, preparations and second courses! The bulbs are round, medium in size, it is advisable to use soon after harvest - the variety is limited in storage.
Many will like the early ripe variety Serpentine, created at the West Siberian vegetable station. It is characterized by high yield, fruit quality and relatively high disease resistance. It enters fruiting amicably, on the 38th day from the emergence of seedlings. The stem with short lateral shoots grows up to 70-120 cm. There are many female flowers on the plant, located mainly on the main stem in the axils of the lower leaves, but there are also many male flowers. Ripe greens are small, weighing 70-75 g, elongated-ovate, with large tubercles and black spikes. It is interesting that from a third to a half of the fruit is covered with a pattern in the form of blurry stripes, like serpentine ribbons, this feature suggested such an unusual name to breeders.
They need to be collected regularly and often. Harvest 4.5-5 kg per 1 sq.m. For three years, the breeders of Serpentin were compared with Vyaznikovsky 37 and Altai. It turned out that it is more resistant to downy mildew and bacteriosis, more productive. In terms of sugar content, Serpentine is not inferior to the “old-timers”, but surpasses them in taste. All three varieties quickly, on average in 24 days, give their harvest, and half of it - in the first ten days after the start of fruiting. best term sowing seeds of the Serpentine variety in open ground - May 22-25. Normal care: weeding, loosening row spacing, watering (according to the weather), top dressing with crystallin (1 hour Spoon per 10 liters of water per 1 sq. M.).
Not so long ago, another mid-early onion suitable for growing in Siberia was bred - the Firefly variety. Climbing variety. Fruits are tuberculate, covered with white thorns. Plants begin fruiting on the 44th day from germination, which is a week earlier than the well-known phoenix variety. But in terms of productivity, the Firefly exceeds the phoenix by 2.5 times. It is also interesting that the Firefly is not inferior to the phoenix in terms of disease resistance, but it is much tastier in salad and marinade.
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