How to grow tulips at home in winter? How to grow tulips in a pot on the balcony or how to create a tulip flower garden at home Dutch tulips at home.

  • 27.06.2020

Under natural conditions, they bloom very early. But many want to get the first flowers even earlier. This can be done even at home. Moreover, this way you can make the bulbs bloom at a certain time: for a birthday, Valentine's Day or Women's Day.

Tulips for distillation can be grown in almost any dish:

  • Ceramic
  • Plastic
  • glass

The shape of the pots can also be different, high or wide. In this case, the landing scheme will be different. Experts advise giving preference to ceramic dishes. It passes air to the roots of plants, the soil does not heat up so much under the sun's rays, and protects the bulbs from the cold.

A prerequisite for a quality pot is the presence of drainage holes.

Prepare the soil by buying a neutral or slightly alkaline mixture for bulbs in flower shop. You can cook it at home. Mix garden, leaf soil, humus or compost in equal parts. Add coarse sand and peat. Instead of sand, you can take vermiculite. Bulbs are bought, determined by the varieties of tulips. They can be of the same or different flowering periods.

Most often, simple early ones are used:

  • Christmas Dream red.
  • Christmas Beauty with rose petals.
  • Christmas Marvel crimson.
  • Christmas Star with pink petals edged in white.
  • Christmas Exotic pink.
  • Varieties of the Triumph group:
  • Gavota with yellow and purple border.
  • Ben Van Zanten in red.
  • Brigitta, on the yellow petals of which there are red highlights.
  • Bergamo with purple petals.
  • Flaming Coquette with white petals and pink strokes on them.
  • Golden Brigitte yellow.
  • Gander's Rhapsody with rose petals.
  • Whitney apricot.
  • Alexander Pushkin, whose spherical flower consists of dark cherry petals, decorated with a white border.

Terry early:

  • Margarita with red petals with a white border.
  • Abba red.

Late simple varieties:

  • Atlantis purple with white border.
  • Baroness pink.
  • Dreamland with pink and white petals.
  • Esther pink.

Terry late varieties:

  • Blue Diamond with purple petals.
  • Foxtrot with white and pink petals.
  • Herman Emmink red with yellow border.

Darwin hybrids:

  • Oxford red.
  • Oxford Elite red with yellow border.
  • Pink Pearl with hot pink petals.

For beginner gardeners, it is best to start with simple varieties. Modern methods, the use of biostimulants allows you to use for distillation also:

  • parrots
  • fringed
  • Giant
  • Lily.

Tulip bulbs should be large, smooth, with a circumference of at least 12 cm. In this case, the radius will be about 4 cm. Material dug out in a flower bed cannot be used. It will not give quality colors. It is best to use Dutch bulbs. You can buy them in flower shops or from well-known gardeners.

In order for tulip bulbs to bloom with full-fledged flowers, they need to be cooled, that is, they must be passed through the so-called G point. At this time, a peduncle is formed from the deposit in the bulb. This takes several months. Time depends on variety, temperature and expected flowering time. In the process of forcing in the greenhouse, dry bulbs are specially cooled, then they are planted. Use cooling at a temperature of 5 and 9°C.

In the first case, the bulbs are cooled for 9 to 12 weeks, then planted for rooting. Raise the temperature to 11°C for 3 weeks. For this, a glazed balcony is suitable. After the sprouts appear, the pot is brought into a room with a temperature of 20 ° C. The tulip will bloom in a month.

It is difficult to comply with these conditions in an apartment. But you can go the other way. The bulbs are immediately placed in the soil and set in a cool place, the temperature of which is 9 ° C. Here cooling, rooting and stratification of the bulbs take place simultaneously. After 3 months, sprouts appear. Set the pot in a room with a temperature of 18 ° C. After 20 days, tulips will delight with flowers.

One of the main conditions for growing is to maintain a constant temperature.

Sufficient is important. Light day should be at least 10 hours. It is necessary to illuminate tulips after the appearance of sprouts or with a fluorescent lamp.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. When maintaining a 5-degree temperature, the distillation process lasts 4 months, at 9-degree - five. But on the other hand, it is easier to calculate the flowering period, you do not need to change the temperature. Most often, a method is chosen depending on the conditions that can provide the plant.

For growing on a window, tulips are planted in a pot, the depth of which relates to the diameter as 5: 3. The roots in it will be spacious. An exception may be growing a large number of bulbs together, for example, for installation outdoors. But the depth should still be enough for the development of the roots.

For large bulbs, the height of the pot when grown in one layer is 30 cm, for small ones 20 cm. About 5 bulbs are grown in a dish with a diameter of 20 cm. Bulbs are usually planted in a pot in September or October, when grown in a five-degree way - in November.

Landing rules:

  • At the bottom of a pot or dish with holes in the bottom, a drainage layer of fine expanded clay, charcoal, gravel is laid. Its thickness must be at least 5 cm.
  • Prepared soil about 10 cm high is poured onto the drainage layer. Lightly compact and set the bulbs so that they touch each other.
  • The top is again covered with a layer of soil, watered. At the same time, the earth settles slightly, and it needs to be topped up.

More experienced flower growers grow tulip bulbs of various ripening varieties in one pot. Wherein early varieties set in the lower layer, followed by medium, and then late varieties. Each layer is sprinkled with a layer of soil.

Pots are sent to a cold place. In September, and often in October, it is quite warm outside. Therefore, they are looking for a place with a temperature of 5 or 9 degrees. You can even use the refrigerator by placing the pot in the vegetable compartment. So it will be convenient to get it once a week and inspect the state of the earthen coma. The soil may be too dry or moldy. Both of these options do not help normal development plants. It needs to be slightly hydrated.

When the time comes to take the pot of tulips into the heat, set it to a lighted place. But direct sunlight should not fall on its walls. Watered with warm water about 2 times a week, spraying is carried out, increasing the humidity of the air in dry rooms.

When the buds appear, the pot is moved away from the heaters. Tulips are fed once a week with phosphate fertilizers. You don’t need to add a lot of nitrogen, because the plant will not grow green mass. Tulip blooms in a pot for about two weeks. To extend this period, at night they remove it away from heat sources, taking it to balcony door or other cool place. During the day the temperature should be around 16°C.

After flowering, do not dig immediately, continue to water and fertilize once every two weeks. The bulb needs to get ready for the next bloom. Let stand until one leaf remains. Stop watering and fertilizing. Waiting for the soil to dry. Remove the bulbs from the pot, remove the old husk if it has fallen behind the bulb. Sorted by size, placed in separate bags and hidden until next autumn.

The growing process lasts several months, in order to guess the flowering date, you need to correctly calculate the time of their planting and transfer to a warm place.

Bulbs planted in late October will bloom in February. To get a flower in March, plant it in December. They take out the pot in a sprouting sprout in a warm place gradually. First, they are installed in a dark room (you can wrap it with a dark film) for four days. The temperature is maintained at least 14°C. Then they are transferred to a lighted place or the film is removed. The temperature there should be around 18°C. Waiting for the tulip to bloom.

More information can be found in the video:

Growing tulips at home - they are always associated with spring. These perennial bulbous plants pleasing to the eye at the very peak of spring. At the very time when the grass that has just appeared is in full force and nature completes the process of awakening. The maximum beauty of tulips falls on the most beautiful and dynamic season.

Introduction

An unusual sight on your windowsill

The impression of blooming tulips is so vivid that many want to see them bloom all year round. Fortunately, tulips are among those plants that allow you to grow them at almost any time of the year. The agrotechnics of tulips is such that their flowering can occur at home from the beginning of December to the end of March.

It is quite difficult to get flowering tulips in the autumn period, since a very serious and unusual preparation of the bulbs is required. In addition, many tend to grow tulips for any holiday. During the specified period, there may be several such events: Christmas, New Year, Valentine's Day and, of course, March 8th.

Spring beauty in the sun

Someone wants to grow tulips for aesthetic satisfaction, and someone, of course, wants to earn some money on this. Consider how you can grow tulips at home, both for beauty and for commerce.

General information about the life cycle in cold weather

Growing tulips at home, in conditions of limited soil volumes for their root system, is called forcing. At the same time, the growth of green mass and flowering are provided by the nutrients stored in the tulip bulb. Forcing itself is an extreme growing method, after which the bulb needs at least two years to restore its generative properties.

Another feature of distillation is the small number of daylight hours per autumn-winter periods and short daylight hours. This implies the use of light sources during the active growing phase. In some cases, it becomes necessary to provide not only light and heat, but also the required air humidity.

Wonderful garden decoration

In our climate, most plants are dormant in winter. At the same time, they do not just "sleep", surviving the winter, but form plant organs of the next season inside themselves, which, after waking up, begin to grow. Without this process, the plant will not germinate in the spring; therefore, if the bulb has not passed the hibernation period, a tulip cannot be grown from it.

Therefore, the life cycle of a tulip under natural conditions must necessarily include this period. In tulips, the formation of the rudiments of the stem and bud occurs at a low temperature. Thus, in order for the tulip to sprout, it must be kept for some time in conditions corresponding to natural ones.

Gorgeous composition

But that's not all: if you store the bulb in natural conditions, then leaves form in it first, and only then, at lower temperatures, flowers. We do not need leaves (their growth can be stimulated with fertilizers, or they will form during the growth of a flower), so we immediately move on to flowers. To do this, after the formation of the rudiments of plant organs, the bulb must be placed not in normal conditions, but in those under which a flower will form.

The bulbs must be in the temperature range from +5°С to +9°С. And the time of their storage at this temperature is several months. Depending on the variety and temperature, it lasts from 16 to 22 weeks.

Selecting a variety for forcing

Not all varieties are suitable for the successful cultivation of tulips at “non-standard” times. Experimentally, it was found that low-growth tulips are best suited for these purposes. Consider them:

Tulips Greig

They have goblet-shaped buds, a relatively wide pointed leaf with variegated spots. Usually their color is either monophonic or two-tone. These plants have a mild fragrance

Tulip Foster

Tulip Foster. It is a hybrid of the Darwin tulip. Height is 12-15 cm. The plants are resistant to diseases and pests.

Parade

It has large goblet-shaped buds. Color: red with orange arrows. Possesses high endurance and unpretentiousness.

Crystal

Terry tulips. Shades from red to purple. It has a short cold storage period, which makes it possible to grow it for the New Year.

Christmas Marvel

Also an "early ripe" tulip, suitable for forcing for the New Year or Christmas holidays. It has a red or crimson color with a white border.

Scaborough dutch

Large bright orange flowers suitable for medium forcing. Suitable for cultivation by February 14 and March 8.

Apeldoorn

Preliminary preparation

Bulb preparation begins in late summer or autumn. You can either buy bulbs or dig your own. In case of purchase seed you should choose bulbs with sizes from 3.5 to 5.5 cm.

It is mandatory to inspect them before buying: they must be without damage or traces of disease; to the touch - slightly elastic. It is imperative to clarify with the seller the terms of cultivation and storage, since the time of forcing tulips depends on this.

If you use your bulbs, then you need to follow a few rules:

  • it is best to start collecting them in the summer, or when the tulips have just faded (depending on what date the forcing is planned for)
  • after harvesting, it is necessary to clean the bulbs from excess husks, discard diseased and damaged
  • the first month the bulbs are stored at high temperatures (up to 30-34 ° C); this is necessary for tying flowers for next year

Currently, two main methods of preparing bulbs are used, differing in storage temperature (+5°C or +9°C). The first lasts a little less, but requires maintaining the temperature at a constant level, which cannot be provided by home remedies. The second lasts at least 16 weeks, however, it allows storage temperature fluctuations within a fairly wide range (+6 ... + 12 ° C).

Moreover, part of this period, the bulb is stored in a refrigerator or basement, and part - in the substrate in which it is grown. Thus, simultaneous flower formation and plant rooting are achieved.

Planting dates for tulips in bulbous cultivation

In most cases, the term for planting tulips in the substrate is 2-3 months before the end of the forcing period, but this is not a mandatory requirement. The life cycle of tulips during forcing consists of the following stages:

  • digging and pre-storing bulbs at room temperature: up to 1-2 weeks
  • storage at elevated temperature (+30-34°C) for setting future leaves and flowers: 3-4 weeks
  • cold storage without planting in the ground: 4-8 weeks
  • cold storage with rooting: 8-12 weeks
  • direct distillation (active plant growth, flower blooming): 1-3 weeks

Crazy color palette

These terms depend on the variety of tulips and on what time it is planned to complete the forcing.

  • For example, growing tulips by March 8 may involve up to 3 months of storage without rooting.
  • If you plan to grow flowers for the New Year, it makes no sense to delay cold storage without planting in the ground for more than a month.
  • The timing of digging the bulbs is also important.
  • So, for example, "New Year's" varieties are dug out of the ground as soon as they fade.
  • And varieties by March 8 can be dug out after the plant has completely withered or dried up.
  • If it is not planned to grow tulips by a certain date, or, in commercial terms, there are no deadlines, then you can prepare the bulbs for planting in a more gentle mode.

The sequence of actions in this case will be as follows:

  • bulbs are dug up after the leaves turn yellow
  • the bulbs are cleaned and stored for a week at an elevated temperature (+34°C)
  • subsequent storage is carried out at a temperature of 20-23 ° C and lasts 2 months
  • the next month, the storage temperature decreases to 15-17°C
  • "cold" storage at a temperature of about +9 ° C (which, unfortunately, cannot be avoided) lasts about a month
  • after which the bulbs are planted in the substrate and grown at room temperature; or 1-2 weeks they still stand at a temperature of + 9 ° C, and then they are transferred to heat

With this growing regime, the planting of the bulbs will take place around October-November. This method allows the bulbs to form with less negative consequences and almost all of them will sprout and bloom without problems. This is primarily due to the fact that rooting will be carried out at higher temperatures than during the "pre-holiday" forcing. Flowering should occur in mid-January.

This method sometimes allows you to grow early tulips for the New Year, but the likelihood of such an event is low.

Planting bulbs in the ground

Planting process

Regardless of the preliminary preparation of the bulbs, this step is the same for any method of growing tulips at home. The germination of tulip bulbs begins with their rooting in a special substrate. The composition of the substrate can be very diverse. The main requirement for it is a fairly high fertility and a normal level of acidity (6.5 - 7); the latter means the need for liming substrates with peat and sawdust.

For winter cultivation, it is also undesirable to use garden soil in its pure form, since it becomes denser from watering, decreasing in volume. There are two main substrate recipes used in winter cultivation tulips.

One of them uses ordinary soil as a base:

  • 2 parts of garden soil
  • 1 part compost
  • 1 part coarse sand

The second is softer, since it is based on sawdust:

  • 2 parts sawdust
  • 1 part soil
  • 1 part manure or compost

It should be remembered that every 5 kg of sawdust should be limed with 1 glass of charcoal.

One of the requirements for growing containers is the possibility of air penetration to the roots of the plant. Therefore, if you have few bulbs, you can get by with several ceramic pots (ceramic has the ability to pass air), 15-20 cm in diameter and at least 15 cm high. One bulb sits in one pot.

  • The bottom of the box or pots is covered with a layer of drainage, ranging from 1/5 to 1/3 of the height of the sides
  • Expanded clay or medium-sized rounded pebbles are chosen as drainage. Use of flat stones is not recommended.
  • Next, a layer of soil up to 3 cm high is laid on the drainage, on which the bulbs are placed
  • Before planting the bulbs, it is advisable to hold them in a warm solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour
  • The bulbs can be of different heights, so it is necessary to pour the substrate under some of them so that all the tops are at the same level.
  • The density and method of planting bulbs in boxes can be very diverse - from rare spot plantings according to the 10 by 10 cm scheme, to dense plantings, when the bulbs are practically in contact with each other
  • After installing the bulbs in a box or pot, they are sprinkled with a layer of substrate of at least 1 cm and watered abundantly.
  • Next, the box is sent to a cold dark room, where the time stays, depending on how the distillation will be carried out.
  • It is advisable to take out the box once a day for half an hour for airing; watering is carried out once a week

cultivation

Approximately 10-15 days before the expected flowering date (if we are talking about forcing), the box with seedlings is brought into the light. At this time, the first hatched and even grown shoots are already clearly visible. The first week it is in partial shade, the second - already on the sunny side.

Bulbs in the substrate after "cold" storage and rooting

  • Plants are watered daily and fed with complex fertilizers.
  • Water should be at room temperature. The norms and composition of dressings depend on the variety and method of distillation.
  • The length of daylight hours in the last 10 days of distillation should be at least 11 hours, and it is desirable to use sunlight as much as possible.
  • Some varieties may require high humidity, perhaps even plants will need to be sprayed with leaves and buds from a spray bottle.
  • All this must be foreseen in advance so that by the time of distillation it does not become an unpleasant surprise.
  • After cutting the tulips, the bulbs spend another 20 days in the ground.
  • Then they are dug up and dried as follows: the first two weeks - at room temperature, the remaining time before planting in the ground (in April) - at a temperature of 15-17 ° C.

Alternative cultivation

If there is no desire to mess with the substrate, which includes earth, tulip bulbs can be grown without it. And there are several such ways. Let's consider them in more detail.

Growing tulips without land

An alternative to a soil-containing substrate is the use of structures made of drainage stones or other materials filled with water. This is somewhat reminiscent of growing orchids, with the only difference being that the roots of orchids are airy and do not tolerate excess moisture, and the roots of tulips can be in water for quite a long time.

You can use large drainage pebbles, between which the bulbs are fixed. An alternative would be special glass balls. Sometimes it is recommended to use smaller materials, forming comfortable drainage cushions from them using nets.

The sequence of actions for such cultivation will be as follows:

  • After a month of warm storage, the bulbs are immersed for two hours in a rooting agent solution, for example, epin
  • Drainage material is applied to a vase, bath or any other container. The free space between the pebbles should be enough to accommodate the developed root system of the tulip
  • The bulbs are firmly fixed in the drainage material. At the same time, their level of location should be such that the water reaches approximately 30% of the entire growth of the bulb, otherwise it may begin to rot.
  • The bulbs are filled with water and placed in a cold dark place, the conditions in which correspond to the conditions of "cold" storage (temperature + 9 ° C, no light sources)
  • The water level is updated daily to the initial level
  • After 1.5-2 months, the bulbs are brought out into the light and brought to flowering within 2-3 weeks in the same way as they do with those grown in an earthen substrate.

Further actions with the bulbs are also similar to those described above. The only difference is that their drying at room temperature begins immediately after the flowers are cut.

Growing tulips in water

As a last resort, if there is no desire to mess around with drainage, you can take a very simple path, using special containers for growing bulbs exclusively in water. They are similar in shape to an hourglass. To some extent, this is reminiscent of growing onions on a windowsill, with the only difference being that a tulip bulb is used instead of an ordinary bulb.

The process of growing tulips from bulbs is completely similar to that described earlier with the use of drainage.

Tulips from seeds at home

Tulip seeds can be purchased, but you can also get yourself. To do this, after the end of the flowering of the plant, tie up its stem so that the box with the seeds is in an upright position. When the box becomes dry, it is cut from the stem and placed in a warm, dry place where it dries completely. By October, when the seeds can be planted, they will dry out completely.

Boxes with seeds

The optimal time for planting tulips is the end of October. The soil should be soft and loose. The composition of the soil is as follows: peat, compost and coarse sand are mixed in equal proportions. Despite the presence of peat, it is not necessary to lime the soil.

Each seed is lowered into an individual hole to a depth of 2-3 cm, sprinkled with soil composition and watered. Seeds can be planted both in individual pots and in boxes of several pieces. The distance between seeds should be about 10 cm.

Water procedures

They do not require special care: regular watering and spraying once a week, temperature not higher than + 25 ° C. Already in the spring you can see the first shoots.

However, do not expect that in the very first year young tulips will please the owners with flowering. In the first year of their life, they only tie the bulb. Its final formation is completed by the second year of the tulip's life. In the third year, it is dug up in the spring to be planted in the fall.

Thus, obtaining tulip flowers when growing the last of the seeds is possible only in the fourth year of the process. Few people are able to withstand such waiting times, so tulips are practically not propagated by seeds at home. However, if you are a breeder, the alternatives seed propagation simply no.

Tulips for sale

Selling tulips for the holidays is pretty profitable business. The cost of selling both retail and wholesale batches of flowers differs significantly, and the associated costs are quite low. This is primarily due to the fact that most of the time when forcing plants, they are stored at low temperatures, which can be done in winter without too much cost.

Forcing tulips for sale on an industrial scale

Let's make an approximate assessment of the tulip business:

  • For convenience, all prices are presented in dollars.
  • The cost of one bulb is about $0.30
  • Forcing costs per unit are about $0.16
  • For wholesale, one bulb can be sold for $0.70, and for retail for $1.15
  • Thus, the profit from one bulb in the case of a full cycle from self-planting to self-selling will be 1.15 - 0.46 = 0.69 dollars per 1 bulb
  • At the same time, from 1 sq. m. area (these are 4 boxes 60 by 40 cm) you can grow from 200 to 300 tulips. That is, the net profit from one box will be 50 x 0.69 = 34.5 dollars

Forcing tulips at home

Naturally, it will be necessary to agree on the lease of premises where plants will be grown, on the supply of bulbs and the sale finished products. But these are details. The most important thing is to organize the process in such a way as to have time to “drive out” the flowers by the required date, because their price on another day (even the next) may differ significantly downwards.

Tulips for the new year

Please loved ones in the cold winter time part of the beauty of everyone's favorite spring

  • The collection of bulbs for New Year's distillation is carried out at the beginning of summer. The optimal collection time is the first decade of June.
  • After a month of drying the bulbs at a high temperature (+ 34 ° C), it lies on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, where they stay until mid-October.
  • In October, the bulbs are planted in a substrate based on earthen soil (it is better not to use sawdust in this distillation).
  • Further, in the boxes selected for planting, drainage falls to the level of 1/3 of the height, the rest is almost completely covered with soil.
  • Bulbs should be immersed in the substrate by about 60-80%; you can bury them almost entirely, leaving only the top outside.
  • The distance between the bulbs should be small, from 0.5 to 1 cm, but they should not touch each other.
  • Next, the box with bulbs is placed in a cold place with a temperature of + 9 ° C. It can be a balcony, a basement or a partially heated room.
  • You don't need to cover it with anything. It is necessary to maintain a constant level of substrate moisture. Practice shows that on average one watering is required in 5-7 days.
  • 1-2 weeks before the New Year, the box is taken out of its place of storage and placed on a well-lit windowsill.
  • It is advisable to illuminate the bulbs in the first 2-3 days only with a natural color, and then using diffusers.
  • The following days, the total amount of light time should be 10-12 hours per day.
  • We compensate for the lack of natural light with artificial light.

Tulips by March 8

Beautifully arranged bouquet

  • Forcing tulips by March 8 is somewhat easier, as it is closer to the natural timing of the awakening of these plants.
  • Rooting in this case can take longer (and therefore at a higher temperature: +12°C instead of +9°C), which will positively affect the quality of the flowers.
  • The collection of bulbs with such forcing can be carried out at least at the end of summer, at least at the beginning of autumn.
  • After "warm" and "cold" storage (lasting 1 and 3 months, respectively), they proceed to the germination of the bulbs. This process must begin in early January.
  • In this case, the composition of the soil for growing does not play a special role. It can be both soil and sawdust mixture.
  • An important difference at this stage is the mandatory treatment of the bulbs with potassium permanganate before planting, since in the spring bacteria are likely to attack the bulbs.
  • When forcing, it is better to cover the bulbs entirely with soil, this will ensure more stable rooting.
  • Otherwise, the procedure is similar to the measures used for forcing New Year's tulips.

Tulip storage

There are two ways to store cut tulips at home: dry and wet. Despite the fact that the plant is cut, its growth continues a little, therefore, in the case of using special boxes, their size should take into account this growth.

Dry storage consists of storing bunches of dozens of tulips wrapped in paper in dark refrigerators. The air temperature in such a refrigerator should be within + 2 ° С ... + 3 ° С at a relative humidity of not more than 98%. Such conditions allow you to keep tulips fresh for 15 days without losing their external qualities.

In this case, there should be no light, since light causes the stem to deviate in its direction even after cutting. If there is no refrigerator with light insulation, or storage takes place in storage large volume, it is necessary to use lighting through a green light filter. Tulips do not react to such light.

dry storage

When the storage process ends, the slice is updated on the flowers and they are placed in cold water. After that, the stem acquires the required elasticity and the ligaments can be separated. Tulips are ready to use.

Wet storage or storage in water means immersing flowers in water with a temperature of +8 ° C for a day. After that, they retain their properties for a week. An alternative is to store flowers in water with a temperature of +1…+2°C for two weeks.

How to store tulip bulbs

If it becomes necessary to store tulip bulbs in summer time, about here everything is very simple. Such a bulb has the necessary supply of nutrients for the formation of a new plant and does not need any additional means of stimulation. Summer storage of bulbs is carried out at room temperature (+20 ... + 24 ° C) and can last up to six months. Further storage should be carried out at lower temperatures (+15…+17°С).

AT winter conditions the storage temperature should correspond to the natural conditions of the place where the bulbs are located, although this is also not a dogma. Typically, growers start storing bulbs at 25°C in September, lowering the value by 5°C each month. Depending on the tulip variety, the "stop" of the temperature decrease is made by 15, 10 or 5°C. In this state, they are stored until spring. After that, they are either transferred to "summer" storage, or planted in the ground.

In both cases, it is desirable to use a shallow wooden box, the bottom of which is covered with newspaper or paper. Bulbs in a box are laid out in one layer. Sometimes the space between the bulbs is filled with sawdust to better thermal insulation and moisture absorption.

9.1 Total Score

Conclusion

Growing tulips at home is not a particular problem if you know the features of their life cycle. By changing the time of awakening of the bulbs and the duration of their stay in cold storage conditions, it is possible to change the flowering time of tulips in a very wide range. With a sufficient supply of nutrients in the bulb, the tulip is able to grow and bloom at any time of the year only due to them. We have tried to collect for you all the necessary information on this topic. If you do not agree with these ratings, leave your rating in the comments with the reasoning for your choice. Thank you for your participation. Your opinion will be useful to other users.

Relevance of information

Availability of application

Topic disclosure

Reliability of information

Potted tulips are popular around the holidays as they last longer than cut tulips. To get blooming tulips at home, you must follow a few rules: ensuring the temperature regime during storage, timely planting and caring for plants. Preparation of tulips for cultivation begins a few months before the budding phase. One of the most important points is the exposure of the bulbs at a low temperature, as it contributes to the formation of a flower bud.

    Show all

    Forcing tulips

    Growing tulips at home is called forcing. Indoors, forcing plants can be done from December until the flowering of these plants in the open field. Since under natural conditions tulips are dormant for some time at low temperatures, their growth in autumn and winter is unnatural, and certain conditions are required for flowering in winter and early spring.

    Professional forcing of tulips provides sophisticated technology. To obtain large plants with a long stem for cutting, a special room with heating, cooling, lighting equipment and timers is required. By adjusting the temperature of the bulbs and flowers, you can speed up or delay the development of plants, getting cut flowers just in time for the holidays - for the New Year, Christmas, St. Valentine's Day or March 8th.

    At home, distillation can also be done, but the flowers will be smaller and they are not suitable for cutting. They can only be used as an ornamental pot culture. The quality of flowering tulips depends on the variety, the size of the bulbs and the correct preparation.

    Training

    For distillation plants at home use early varieties of tulips, undersized and medium-sized. There are also special forcing varieties. On the package with tulip bulbs, their purpose is indicated. Tulips for growing in pots can also be used for regular planting in the garden. The choice of variety is made in accordance with the duration of the dormant period of the plant and the desired flowering period. The table below lists some varieties that are suitable for forcing in pots.

    Tulip variety Group The start of the growing season at home after a dormant period at low temperatures Required cooling period, weeks
    Brilliant Starearlythe 1st of December11-13
    flairearlyNovember 2510-12
    Jofreearlythe 1st of December11-13
    abraTriumphDecember 1014-16
    Baby Dollearly5 January14-16
    kikomachiTriumph1st of January12-14
    Princess IrinaTriumph1st of February15-17
    SedovTriumphDecember 1513-15
    Yellow BabyearlyDecember 30th14-16
    GluckKaufmanJanuary 1513-15
    PinocchioGreig5 January14-16
    PlazierGreig1st of February15-17
    Red Riding HoodGreigFebruary, 1516-18

    How to get good planting material?

    Preparation and processing of tulip bulbs begins long before they are planted. If you use your own planting material, that is, bulbs grown in the garden, then you need to follow a few recommendations for growing them before forcing:

    • tulips are planted in fertile soil, preferably loamy;
    • regularly feed flowers using complex mineral fertilizers, at least 3 times - before planting, during budding and after flowering; fill the soil with humus;
    • soil acidity is regulated so that it is neutral - within pH 6.5-7.5;
    • provide for drainage at the site so that moisture does not stagnate;
    • before planting in the ground, deep loosening is carried out to a depth of 30-35 cm;
    • planting of tulips, which in a year will be used for distillation, is carried out in September, at an earth temperature not higher than 10 degrees;
    • buds must be cut, leaving leaves and peduncles;
    • plants are watered abundantly and often during their growing season;
    • bulbs are dug up immediately after the aerial parts of the plant wither.

    All these measures are aimed at obtaining large healthy bulbs so that you can plant tulips at home in a pot. Growing tulips in winter takes a lot of energy from plants, weak ones will not bloom. For planting, extra-class bulbs (more than 4 cm in diameter) and the first group of parsing (3.5-3.9 cm) are selected. The size of the bulbs greatly affects the size of the flowers. When sorting planting material check the absence of spots on the surface, damage and rot on the bottom. Such bulbs cannot be planted.

    You need to buy tulips for distillation in the month of October, the most deadline- this is the beginning of November, as they need to provide another period of rest. Before planting, they should form flower buds, which, under industrial growing conditions, are checked by cutting several bulbs.

    How are bulbs stored?

    The temperature regime of holding tulips after they bloom is very important. It is divided into 2 stages:

    1. 1. After harvesting the bulbs, they are stored at a temperature of 18-20 degrees for a month in a dry state. Under such conditions, the formation of the rudiments of leaves and parts of the flower - petals, stamens, pistil - is completed. In order to get very early flowering, tulips are kept for 4-7 days at a temperature of 34 degrees.
    2. 2. During the cooling period of the bulbs at a temperature of 5-10 degrees, physiologically active substances are formed that affect the growth of the stem. If the temperature is not low enough, the plants grow short stems and the death of the buds is possible. The duration of cooling depends on the variety of tulip, but not less than 12 weeks (on average - 14-16). The quality of flowering depends on the duration of this period.

    In order for the bulb to bloom at a later date, the warm storage period is extended. Treatment with elevated temperatures also leads to an extension of the vegetation period after germination and faster growth of roots and stems. Too long storage at a low temperature is undesirable, as this causes the stems to stretch.

    Before planting, the bulbs are treated in room temperature fungicide solutions:

    • Fitosporin anti-rot (1 tsp per 1 liter of water, for 1-2 hours);
    • a solution of potassium permanganate of a pale pink color (for 30 minutes);
    • Maxim (2 ml per 1 liter of water, 30 min.);
    • Vitaros (2 ml per 1 liter of water, 2 hours);
    • Fundazol (10 g per 2 liters of water, 2-3 hours).

    Etching work is carried out in rubber (latex) gloves. Especially carefully it is necessary to process the bottom of the bulbs, as it is most susceptible to diseases.

    General growing rules

    Early varieties undergo a month of aging in a dry cold state and 2 months - planted in a substrate, also at a low temperature. As a substrate, you can choose two options:

    • Fillers - peat (not acidic), sand, peat-sand mixture, perlite, hydrogel, decorative ground or a mixture of these components.
    • A complete soil mixture with micro and macro elements.

    The first option is used if further preservation of the bulb after forcing is not required. The main condition for growing in substitute soil is timely moistening and fertilization. If you plan to save tulips, then it is better to use high-quality soil, sold in bags in gardening stores. For distillation, those nutrients that are in the bulb are enough. In order for the mother bulb to give a replacement, which can be planted later in the garden, hydroponics is not enough.

    When planting bulbs for distillation in pots, it is recommended to observe the following conditions:

    • You can plant tulips in any container, not necessarily large. At the bottom should be drainage holes. If you need to get a large number of tulips, they are grown in a box.
    • When distilled, the bulbs tolerate thickening well, so they can be planted quite tightly - in a pot with a diameter of 15-17 cm, 4-5 medium bulbs, the distance between which is at least 1 cm. For planting one bulb, a pot with a diameter of 7 cm is enough.
    • Flowers of the same variety are planted in one container.
    • The bulbs are not completely buried, but covered with earth to 2/3 of their height. Deepening will cause the plant to spend extra energy on forcing the stem to the detriment of flowering.
    • Plants are watered with a solution of Fitosporin-M or Fitosporin anti-rot in order to prevent fungal diseases during storage.

    After planting, tulips undergo further cooling, the duration of which depends on the variety. If the tulip is immediately placed in the light and in a warm place, then the peduncle will “take away” all the strength from the bulb, since the plant has not yet taken root. The flower will be small, and the plant will be weak. The formation of a full-fledged root system occurs at least 2 weeks. Tulips are brought into a warm room and put into the light when the stem grows by 5-6 cm and 3-4 weeks remain until the bud opens. For longer flowering, plants should be kept at a low temperature, within +15 degrees.

    Flowers for Christmas and New Year

    For the correct forcing of flowers on New Year's Eve, varieties are used that require a short cooling period (Apricot Beauty, Christmas Marvel, Dix Favorit and others). Purchased bulbs are placed in the refrigerator in the lower fruit and vegetable section and stored at temperatures up to +9 from September 1 to October 1.

    After planting in a pot with soil on October 1, the plants are covered with plastic bags and put in the refrigerator again, moistening the soil daily. For cooling, you can also use the cellar, cellar or store the bulbs on the balcony (during the cold season). Successful rooting of tulips occurs only at low temperatures.

    A sign of plant readiness for vegetation is a stem that has reached 5-6 cm in height. After that, tulips can be brought into the room or into the greenhouse. For the above varieties and planting dates, this will happen around December 7th. For the first 2 days, tulips are kept at a temperature of +15 degrees, you can put them on the window. Then you need to provide a temperature of 18-20 degrees and sufficient illumination, for which the plants are illuminated with lamps installed at a height of 0.5 m from the pots. Flowering begins after 3 weeks.

    Forcing tulips on March 8

    For forcing for International Women's Day, tulips from the Triumph group and Darwin hybrids (Apeldoorn, Oxford, Parade, London, Hollands Glory, Lefebers favorite, Bolshoi Theater and others) are used. Storage until planting on October 1st is carried out in the same way as in the previous case.

    Pots or boxes with tulips planted in the soil are placed for 18-20 weeks in a basement, barn or refrigerator, where they are stored and rooted at a temperature of 2-8 degrees and a humidity of 96-98%. By February 2, the sprouts reach a height of 5-6 cm and they are brought into a warm room. Contain tulips in the same way, at a temperature of 18-20 degrees and additional lighting. Flowering begins March 2-4. Plants that will bloom on the May holidays do not need lighting.

    What to do with the bulb after flowering?

    In the usual cultivation of tulips in open ground, the bulbs are dug up in the month of June. Those bulbs that were used for forcing cannot be planted in the garden in the spring, as they need a dormant period. Usually they are thrown away in shops and industrial greenhouses, but you can grow a full-fledged planting material from them that retains all varietal characteristics. To do this, do the following:

    • The stem and leaves of the faded plant are completely cut with scissors.
    • Remove the old husk.
    • Bulbs must be treated with fungicides, as in preparation for planting. Those specimens that are infected with mold are kept in solutions 2 times longer.
    • After processing, the bulbs are dried.
    • In spring and summer they are stored in dry conditions at a temperature of +25 degrees, and in autumn they are planted in the garden and grown according to conventional technology. During storage, embryos of replacement bulbs will form in the scales. Such bulbs cannot be re-forged.

    Vygonochnye tulips will be able to bloom only in the second year.

It's no secret that tulips are one of the most sought-after flowers today. There are probably no women who would not like to receive lush bouquets of these beautiful flowers from their men. And imagine for a moment that it is still snowing outside or spring slush is lying, and on your balcony or on the windowsill, placers of lush tulips are already in full bloom and smell. Until recently, most could only dream of it.

But believe me, in the near future you will be able to enjoy the chic bouquets of tulips that will grow in pots at your home. And this does not require any supernatural efforts or huge investments.

How to choose a pot for tulips.

Before you start planting bulbs, you must choose the right pot. By "correct" I mean the height and diameter of the container. You can use both low pots or boxes, and high ones. In low pots (from 15 cm in height and 20 cm in diameter) it will be possible to plant 1-3-5 bulbs, with a diameter of 3-3.5 cm. Deeper pots (20-30cm high and 20cm or more in diameter) will accommodate more bulbs with larger diameters (4-6cm).

Also, when choosing a pot, consider how many tulips you plan to grow. Each bulb should be at least 1.5-2 cm away from the walls of the container and from neighboring bulbs. For example, if you have a pot with a diameter of 15 cm, then you can plant 3 bulbs in it, with a diameter of about 3 cm.

If you are only planning to buy pots for tulips, then I recommend choosing ceramics between ceramic and plastic containers. Yes, plastic pots are much cheaper, but ceramic pots are better at passing the oxygen necessary for the roots.

Also note that at the bottom of each pot there must be one or more drainage holes through which excess moisture will be removed. If the bottom is solid, be sure to make at least one hole in it.

And the last thing about the pots: for a more aesthetic look, a stand must be included with it, onto which water will drain through the drainage hole.

Soil for planting tulips in pots.

Tulips are not very demanding on the soil, but they feel more comfortable in good black soil or special loose light mixtures that can be purchased at flower shops or prepared on their own.

Soil mix for tulips No. 1.

  1. Clay earth (1 part);
  2. Peat (2 parts);
  3. Coarse-grained river sand (2 parts).

Soil mix for tulips No. 2.

  1. Leaf land (1 part);
  2. Garden land (1 part);
  3. Humus (1 part);
  4. Peat (1 part)
  5. Coarse-grained river sand (1 part).

The acidity of the soil for tulips should be slightly alkaline or neutral.

Also, the bulbs of these flowers can be planted in pots with ordinary clean coarse-grained river sand or vermiculite.

Selection of varieties and bulbs of tulips for planting in pots.

Planting tulips in pots or boxes on the balcony is carried out from September to the end of November. Until this time, it is necessary to choose varieties of tulips. For growing at home, undersized flowers are best suited.

The preparation of the bulbs begins in the summer, when the tulips in the garden have faded and their leaves have dried up. Usually they are dug in July. Then they are stored in special conditions for autumn planting.

Also, if you do not have your own planting material, then you can purchase bulbs in a flower shop or in the market. At the same time, I recommend choosing large bulbs (from 3.5 to 6 cm in diameter). Do not forget that when buying bulbs, they must be carefully examined: they must be elastic, without failures and damage, and also without visible diseases. When purchasing bulbs, pay attention to the timing of flowering tulips. Read more about choosing bulbs.

Planting and growing tulips in a pot.
Step-by-step instruction No. 1.

As I said before, depending on when you want to get flowers, tulip bulbs in pots and boxes are planted between September and the end of October. The time from planting to receiving flowers for all varieties is different, but not less than 3-4 months. It also depends on growing conditions.

  1. At the bottom of the pot, be sure to lay a thin drainage consisting of gravel, expanded clay, ceramic fragments or any other solid material that will ensure free flow of excess water after watering, but will prevent the soil from washing out.
  2. Pour the soil mixture on top of the drainage so that, by placing the bulb on it, its upper part is either at the level of the upper edge of the pot, or 1 cm lower. For example, if the height of the pot is 15cm and the height of the bulb is 5cm, then add 1cm of drainage and 9-10cm of soil.
  3. Water the soil lightly with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate).
  4. Peel the bulbs, especially the lower root parts, and place them on the soil with the root down and the flat parts against the sides of the pot.
  5. Push the bulbs in about 1cm. Push, don't twist!!! After that, the upper parts of the bulbs will either be at the level of the upper edge of the pot, or 1 cm below it.
  6. As I said above, the tulip bulbs should be about 2 cm apart from each other and from the walls of the pot.
  7. Carefully, so as not to turn the bulbs over, cover them with soil substrate or coarse-grained river sand. This top layer of mixture or sand does not need to be compacted, but simply spread evenly throughout the pot. As a result, the bulbs must be completely covered, or only their tops may remain on the surface.
  8. Pour plenty of future tulips with water.
  9. Put the pot for 40-45 days in a cool place with a temperature of about 4-6 0 C and a humidity of 70-75%. For these purposes, a cellar, basement or refrigerator (but not a freezer !!!) is well suited. At the same time, cover the pot with bulbs with a black cone made of thick cardboard with a hole in the upper part, which will serve as air intake, or simply cover with newspapers. This will be a kind of shading that protects from the light of turning on the light bulb.
  10. After 40-45 days, remove the bulb pot from a cool room and put it for 6-7 days in a warmer dark place with a temperature of 12-14 0 C. In an apartment, this temperature can be near the balcony door or on the windowsill without a battery. If neither one nor the other, then put the tulips on any windowsill closer to the window. At the same time, also close the pot from the light with a cone.
  11. Water the bulbs periodically, preventing them from drying out.
  12. During this time, the sprouts should reach a height of 7-10 cm. Then remove the shade and put the pot of tulips in a warm place (18-21 0 C) with diffused light, but not under direct sunlight. Window sills with windows to the east or west are well suited for this.
  13. Soon, the leaves will turn green, the bud will begin to form and your tulips will bloom. At the same time, do not forget to periodically water the tulips and you can feed them 1-2 times with calcium nitrate dissolved in water or complex fertilizers for indoor flowering plants sold in stores. Although top dressing for tulips that grow at home in fertile soil, are not required.

To increase the flowering period, remove blooming tulips overnight in a cool place, for example, place them near the balcony door or on the windowsill without a battery.

After the tulips at home have faded, break off the buds and gradually reduce watering until the leaves turn completely yellow. Then remove the bulbs from the ground and put them in storage until planting. Unfortunately, due to the depletion of the bulbs, it will not be possible to reuse them at home, but on the other hand, they will be able to bloom again in the open ground next spring.

Planting and growing tulips in a pot on February 14 or March 8.
Step-by-step instruction number 2.

In order to please your beloved woman with lush tulips grown by yourself on Valentine's Day or on March 8, you need to plant them from about the beginning of October to mid-December.

  1. For planting in specially selected pots (about 15-20 cm high and 20-22 cm in diameter), lay a 3-5 cm drainage of gravel, expanded clay or ceramic fragments. This is necessary in order to cover the drainage holes and prevent the soil from escaping through them along with irrigation water.
  2. Pour 8-10 cm of soil on top of the drainage.
  3. Select 5 large tulip bulbs, 4-6cm in diameter, regular round shape and undamaged.
  4. Remove the husk from the bulbs, especially from the root part.
  5. Place the bulbs in a pot on the ground at a distance of at least 2 cm from each other and from the walls of the pot. You need to place them flat sideways towards the walls of the pot. With this planting, the leaves of the tulips will bend outward, and not inside the pot.
  6. Press the bulbs about 1cm into the ground, but do not rotate them.
  7. Carefully cover them with earth so that only the tops, 0.5 cm high, remain on the surface.
  8. Water the planted bulbs well and cover with opaque plastic wrap to allow the soil to dry out slowly.
  9. Place the pot for 40 days in a room with a temperature of 8-10 0 C. This time for the bulbs is called the dormant period. Also, do not forget, without bringing the tulips to light or to a warm place, air them daily, removing the film for about 10-20 minutes.
  10. When shoots appear 5-7 cm high, they can be placed in a warmer (18-22 0 C) and well-lit place. Western and eastern window sills are well suited for this. If bright sunlight hits the tulips, then shade them. It is best if the lighting is diffused.
  11. Do not place tulip pots next to heaters.
  12. Water the tulips periodically, making sure the soil doesn't dry out, but don't water them too often as the bulbs can rot.

You can feed tulips with calcium nitrate or liquid universal fertilizers for house plants.

Tulips - bulbous plants of the lily family, bloom in open ground from early to late May. On February 14, a series of spring holidays begins, and it is tulips that are in demand most often. But the prices for them at this time of the year bite.

You can solve the problem by planting flowers at home in pots, for this you just need to stock up on a little patience and knowledge. At proper care already in February it is really possible to get beautiful flowers.

The very best for home breeding are such varieties of tulips as "Parade", "London", "Aristocrat". Oxford, Lusting Battle.

Tulips should be planted in the fall, then by mid-February, buds can be expected. The time required for forcing tulips is approximately 4 months. Flowering lasts 2 weeks.

Pot selection


If the whole process of growing tulips in pots is planned at room conditions, then it is better to choose low pots for planting bulbs, since the root system is closer to the surface.

The height of the pot should be about 30 cm for large bulbs and 20 cm for small bulbs, width - 20 cm in diameter. Up to 5 bulbs can be planted in such a pot. If the flowers are planned to be grown on the balcony, then it is wiser to choose deeper pots to prevent the bulbs and roots from freezing at low temperatures.

The material of the pot is preferably ceramic, it passes air and moisture well, which is very important for the root system of the plant. Plastic pots are best not used, they are airtight and heat up in the sun, which negatively affects the bulbs. There must be a drainage hole at the bottom of the pot, one or more.

Soil composition


Place a drainage layer on the bottom of the pot. It can be expanded clay, moss - sphagnum, sawdust, gravel, ceramic fragments or charcoal. It is important to ensure that the drainage holes are not clogged with fine material to prevent stagnant water.

Soil mixture for growing tulips in pots is sold in specialized stores, but if it is not possible to purchase it, then you can collect it yourself. The composition of the mixture is as follows: ½ turf, ¼ river sand, ¼ humus. The soil should be slightly alkaline or neutral.

Temperature, humidity and lighting

After planting the bulbs, the pots are transferred to the loggia, basement or balcony, where the temperature environment no more than 10 degrees, and humidity - 75%. From time to time, the earth must be moderately watered, avoiding drying out and waterlogging. Tulips germinate in 16-22 days.

If it is necessary to receive flowers by a certain date, then 21 days before the scheduled date, the pots are transferred to a dark room with a temperature of 14 degrees. After 4 days, increase the illumination and create a temperature of up to 18 degrees. For forcing tulips at this stage, you should try to create 10 hours of daylight for them, otherwise they will stretch ugly in height.

After the start of flowering, it is necessary to keep them at a temperature of 16 degrees, avoid direct sunlight, so that they do not lose their color brightness and delight with long flowering.

Tulips do not tolerate dry air, therefore, after the start of flowering, it is necessary to spray the surrounding space with water in order to maintain the desired humidity of 80%. We must try not to get water on the buds, otherwise they will wither.

Selection of planting material


Bulbs for planting can be purchased at a store or dug from a personal plot if they were once planted in open ground. Store bulbs are preferred, they have already been processed, stored properly and are more likely to germinate.

For planting tulips at home in pots, it is better to choose low-growing varieties, they are most resistant to various diseases.

If it is not possible to buy bulbs in the store, then as soon as the flowers fade in the flower bed in the garden and the last leaf dries up, you need to dig out the bulbs and choose the largest ones. The bulbs must be dried in a warm room at a temperature of 34 degrees for about a week.

For about 2 months, the bulbs are stored at room temperature, then placed in a cooler place. Then they are wrapped in bags or put in boxes and put on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, where they are stored at a temperature of 5 degrees until planting.

Planting tulip bulbs in pots


  1. Prepare pots suitable for tulips.
  2. Lay drainage at the bottom to a height of 3-6 cm.
  3. Fill the pots with a special soil mixture.
  4. Water the soil so that it sags, add more land.
  5. It is good to inspect the bulbs, choose the largest and whole. Place them for 30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
  6. Place the bulbs in the soil at a distance of 1 cm from each other, while the upper third of the head of the bulbs should be above ground level.
  7. Water the planted bulbs. The best solution for irrigation at this moment is to dissolve 10 grams of 0.2% calcium nitrate in 5 liters of water. If after watering the earth sank, then fill up to the desired height.
  8. Place pots with freshly planted bulbs in a room with a temperature not exceeding 10 degrees, for example, on a balcony or in a winter garden.
  9. As soon as sprouts about 5 cm high appear, you can put the pots on the windowsill to sunlight, but not very bright.

Multilayer planting of tulips in pots


  1. Choose varieties of tulips of different heights.
  2. The pot should be 25-35 cm deep.
  3. Lay a layer of pebbles 2.5 cm thick on the bottom of the pot.
  4. Prepare the soil for tulips.
  5. Pour the soil into the pot not reaching 20-25 cm from the top.
  6. Place bulbs of the tallest varieties, pointed end up, one bulb apart and from the side of the pot.
  7. Cover the bulbs with soil, but so that you can see where the bulbs are. Lightly tamp the ground.
  8. Lay out a second layer of medium-sized bulbs in between the first.
  9. Fill the soil, slightly crush it to see where the bulbs of the second layer are located.
  10. Lay out the third grade of bulbs, the shortest, fill them top layer earth not reaching 3 cm in height from the edge of the pot.

Growing tulips from seeds

Tulips can be grown not only from ready-made bulbs, but also from seeds. This method is quite complicated, the process is long, it is mainly used by breeders:

  1. In autumn, in September-October, seeds are sown in a greenhouse in loose nutrient soil.
  2. Seeds are sown thickly.
  3. In spring, a plant grows with thin leaves in the form of a tube and with one root.
  4. During the summer, the plant develops, several roots and a bulb with roots appear.
  5. In the following spring, the bulb already produces several leaves, and after 3 years it can be dug up in the summer, when the leaves turn yellow and wither.
  6. The bulb is cleaned, dried and put into storage.
  7. From September to December, the bulb can be planted in a pot for forcing flowers.

Alternative methods for growing tulips at home

  1. Growing tulips on hydrogel. Tulip bulbs are planted in a hydrogel, which is a polymer compound. In appearance, these are multi-colored transparent pieces that are filled with settled filtered water. The hydrogel with bulbs and water is placed in transparent decorative vases. It looks very aesthetic.
  2. Growing tulips hydroponically. An artificial nutritional composition is created, which includes all the elements necessary for the development of bulbs and flowers.
  3. Growing tulips on the water. For 2.5 hours, the bulbs are soaked in epin and then placed in a vase, at the bottom and on the sides of which there are decorative pebbles. Bulbs are placed on pebbles so that the water touches only the roots.

Care for tulips after planting


  1. Watering is done after planting, and then 2 times a week. It is necessary to carefully monitor that the soil does not dry out and is not flooded. Water should be at room temperature, settled for at least one day.
  2. Fertilizing should be done once every two weeks with flower fertilizer purchased from a specialized store, according to the attached instructions. Give preference to phosphate fertilizers, nitrogen should not be much.
  3. Immediately after the appearance of the buds, the pots should be placed away from heat, from heaters, otherwise the flowering will soon end or not at all.
  4. Avoid direct sunlight, lighting should be sufficient, but not scorching, but diffused.
  5. In no case should you leave pots in drafts. Tulips can get sick.
  6. After the tulips have faded and the last leaf has withered, all dried and withered leaves must be removed and destroyed, otherwise they can cause a disease known as "tulip fire". Next, fertilize the bulbs for a month so that they gain strength for further flowering.
  7. Stop watering after a month, as soon as the earth dries up, dig up the bulbs, peel them from the old peel, dry and hide for storage.
  8. Bulbs from which tulips were grown in pots are not recommended to be planted in pots the next year, they may not produce flowers, they are depleted. They can be planted in the garden, where they are likely to bloom next year.

Diseases and pests of tulips

Tulips have a fairly high degree of susceptibility to various diseases and pests:

  • Variegation. It is characterized by the appearance of ugly strokes and spots on the leaves and flower petals. Unfortunately, there is no antidote for this disease. The only measure is the removal of the diseased plant and the complete disinfection of the soil with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, as well as the disinfection of all garden tools.
  • August sickness. It manifests itself in the fact that the stems and leaves are bent, and ugly spots appear on the leaves. Sick plants are to be destroyed, and the rest are treated with a solution of foundationol.
  • When overwatered, the bulbs are affected various types rot. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully calibrate the measure of watering so as not to flood the plant.
  • Tulips susceptible to indoor cultivation and various ticks. For the prevention of bulbs, before planting, they are treated with a disinfectant solution of potassium permanganate.