Laying paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions (55 photos). How to lay paving slabs - do-it-yourself laying technology on sand and concrete base Rules for laying paving slabs

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands without any problems so that it lasts for more than one year? There are generally accepted guidelines that everyone should follow. In this case, it is not difficult to achieve high quality with a minimum amount of effort.

Material Advantages

Paving slabs are considered a popular material that is used to form walkways and playgrounds.

Track from paving slabs

It has numerous advantages:

• a wide selection of shapes, colors, textures of the material, which allows you to realize any design solution;
• paving slabs are made from environmentally friendly materials, which prevents harm to environment;
• the coating does not change color and does not change shape when exposed to high or low temperatures;
• laying street tiles involves the formation of drainage, which prevents the accumulation of water on the surface;
• characterized by high resistance to various types loads and wear resistance;
• the operation of the finished coating is easy, since caring for it does not cause difficulties;
• paving stone laying is carried out quickly and does not require the involvement of specialists.

Plot marking

At the planning stage, it is necessary to carefully consider where the pavement paths will be placed, how they will be laid. It is best to draw a site plan, which will allow you to calculate all the necessary areas.

After calculating the required volume of materials, 10-15% should be added to the resulting number. Laying paving slabs may not be so easy, so a supply is needed if it is damaged during installation.

When planning paths, one should also not forget that curbs are installed along its edges. They should be much thicker than paving stones. The border will help maintain the integrity of the coating and give it a complete finish. appearance.

To lay paving slabs with your own hands, use the following tools:

• shovel (it is desirable to use a shovel and a bayonet);
• rubber or wooden hammer;
• building level;
• Bulgarian;
• a set of spatulas of different widths;
• rule;
• twine or cord;
• roulette;
• Master OK;
• a container suitable for the preparation of building mixtures;
• rake.

A rake will help spread the material evenly

Foundation preparation

Before laying paving stones, you need to take care of. First, markings are carried out on the territory of the site, hammering wooden pegs along the edges of the tracks. A cord or twine is pulled over them.

The resulting site must be carefully leveled. In the process of carrying out the work, all the hills are removed and the pits are filled up. The technology of laying paving slabs implies the presence of a slope (transverse, longitudinal, transverse-longitudinal). When it rains, it will allow water to run off and prevent puddles from forming on the surface.

After leveling the site, it is carefully rammed.

Various types of hand rammers

This prevents uneven shrinkage of the coating during operation. It must be remembered that the entire installed paving structure will have a thickness of 20 to 30 cm. Therefore, in many cases it is recommended to remove the top vegetation layer of the soil and deepen the coating.

Laying paving stones on a concrete base

Can paving slabs be laid on a concrete base? This should be done if the coating will be placed on weak soils. Such actions will prevent premature destruction of the tracks. You can lay out all the layers of the structure in the following sequence:

1. A layer of screed formed from is poured onto a compacted base.
2. The surface is carefully leveled and compacted to remove air bubbles.
3. It is necessary to lay the curbs, falling asleep on both sides of fine gravel.
4. Curbs are installed taking into account the fact that with their inside there will be paving stones (provide for a gap of 2-3 mm).
5. Borders are concreted with a mortar prepared using a 1:2 ratio.
6. The rules imply the use of a cement-sand mortar as an adhesive.
7. Spacers made of wood are installed in the gaps between the individual elements of the coating to form seams.
8. After mounting the entire track, the remaining solution is carefully removed from the surface.

The process of removing mortar residue from paving stones

Sand base application

How to lay paving slabs on sand so that the resulting coating lasts more than one year? This foundation is the most successful, because it plays the role drainage system. Sand several times increases the stability of the structure and prevents its premature destruction.

How to lay paving slabs in this case:

1. A sand cushion 50-60 mm thick is arranged over the entire surface.
2. Bulk material is carefully leveled with a rake.
3. The sandy base is watered with water until puddles form.
4. After 3-4 hours (in sunny weather), the pillow is given the desired shape.
5. An ordinary pipe or bar is used as a guide profile.
6. The pipes are placed at a distance of 2-3 m, and the sand in the interval between them is leveled by the rule.

Paving slabs

Installation on a cement-sand mixture

How to lay paving slabs correctly if a heavy load is expected on it? The following recommendations should be followed:

1. A powder of sand 3-4 cm thick is made on the prepared base.
2. Install a reinforcing mesh, which will significantly increase the strength of the coating.
3. It is necessary to mix fine dry sand with cement in a ratio of 4: 1 (you can buy a special tile compound in the store).
4. The finished mixture is leveled on the surface (the maximum thickness of the preparation is 4 cm).
5. To facilitate the performance of all operations, guides from reinforcement bars or pipes are used.

Popular schemes for laying paving stones

How to lay paving slabs so that it looks beautiful? There are several popular schemes.

Classic order

For a beginner, laying tiles in the yard is easiest using the classic scheme. It involves the placement of individual elements of the coating one after another. In this case, it is best to use paving stones of the correct shape - rectangular or square. It is easy to install without professional skills.

To improve the appearance of this coating during the formation of the track, it is recommended to use paving stones different color and invoices. In this way, it is possible to implement various design solutions.

Laying scheme "with offset"

This technology of laying paving slabs also belongs to the traditional ones. It involves the installation of individual elements in such a way as to avoid overlapping joints.

To achieve good quality coatings, it is recommended to use paving stones of the same shape. There are no restrictions regarding the color and texture of the material.

Herringbone pattern

You can even lay paving slabs in a herringbone pattern, which means mounting each coating element at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees.

In this case, the paving stones can have a rectangular or curly shape.

An improved version of the "herringbone" is considered to be "wicker". It implies the alternation of longitudinally and transversely placed coating elements. To ensure that the resulting pattern is clear and aesthetically pleasing, it is recommended to use materials of only two colors during installation.

Other schemes

There are other ways to lay paving slabs:

• chess order. It is recommended to combine several colors;
• diagonal layout. The longitudinal seam of the coating is displaced relative to the axis of human movement by 30-60 degrees;
• geometry. We put tiles of the same size, but different colors (different patterns are formed in the form of geometric shapes).

Rules for laying paving stones

It is necessary to start laying paving slabs in the direction away from you. In this case, the coating is not deformed under the weight of a person. Laying of paving slabs on sand occurs according to the chosen scheme. Each element is carefully leveled and fixed with a mallet.

Subsequent rows of coating are also installed with a 2 mm gap. During installation, the evenness of the pavers is checked all the time. When a marriage is detected, the tile is dismantled and installed in a new way.

After the laying of paving stones is completed, they begin to fill the joints. For this purpose, sand or a sand-cement mixture is used.

At the final stage of work, excess grout is removed, checking the quality of filling the seams. They are also thoroughly moistened with water. The seams must be tight, as they take on some of the load.

Some nuances of installation

The existing methods of laying paving slabs are implemented in compliance with the following rules:

• paving stones are installed from the lowest point to the top;
• when mounting in a circular way, work starts from the center of the picture;
• during operation, the horizontal is checked by the level every 2-3 rows;
• when installing paving stones on sand, the gap near the curb is not concreted;
• to better fill the joints with sand, it is recommended to tamp the surface with an areal vibrator.

Care and maintenance of the coating

It is allowed to walk on the laid paving stones only 2-3 days after the final sealing of the seams. To clean the surface of dirt, use a broom or wash it with a stream of water from a hose. You should constantly monitor the safety of the seams. Over time, the sand is washed out, so it must be periodically poured.

Paving stones must not be cleaned with abrasive powders. To do this, it is better to use sifted river sand. If necessary, the surface can also be washed with a mild soap solution.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands, the step-by-step instructions of which are presented above, are carried out without difficulty. The main thing is to follow the recommendations of experienced professionals.

Paving slabs are one of the most reliable and beautiful road building materials. It is often used for paving sidewalks and car entrances in the courtyard of a private house. The cost of laying tiles is not low, and not everyone knows how to lay paving stones. In order for the road product to be of high quality, it is necessary to follow the technology of work performance. Do-it-yourself paving stone laying is carried out according to the instructions and based on the recommendations.

It is important to know how to properly lay paving slabs so that they served for many years and had a beautiful appearance. The paving stone pavement will ennoble not only the yard of a private house, but also the adjacent territory on the street.

Types and benefits

Types of paving slabs according to the material of manufacture:

• Vibrocasting.
• Clinker.
• Granite.

In addition to differences in material, there is a huge variety in color, shape and decor. Also, it differs in the way of laying and the technology of work.

Benefits of laying pavers:

• High strength material.
• Long service life.
• Environmental friendliness of the material.
• Great bearing capacity.
• Low temperature resistance.
• Beautiful appearance.
• Ease of installation.
• The possibility of reusing the material.

Flaws:

• Material cost high enough.
• Complexity of processing.
• It is uncomfortable to walk on cobblestones in heels.
• Opportunity base washout and then the masonry sags or individual elements fall out.

Material consumption calculation

Before you start laying paving stones, you must buy all necessary material and buy a tool. It is important to accurately calculate the area of ​​​​work in order to buy all the tiles in one batch. If sand or cement can always be bought in addition, then the tile will be difficult to find. If it is the same model and the same manufacturer, but a different batch, then it may not match the previous one in shade or size.

On a path paved with tiles from different batches, a shift can form and is quite noticeable. For this reason, paving slabs must be purchased immediately in full and even 10% more for stock.

Required material and tools:

• Paving slabs.
• Border.
• Geotextile.
• Sand.
• Rubble.
• Cement.
• Shovel.
• Rake.
• Broom.
• Wheelbarrow.

• Vibrating plate (manual rammer).
• Grinder with a diamond blade for cutting concrete.
• Rubber mallet.
• Hammer.
• Metric tape measure.
• Level.
• Rule.
• Bucket.
• Trowel.
• Irrigation hose.
• Pegs and beacon cord.
• Personal protective equipment.

Paving technology

There are several ways of paving paving slabs, they depend on the purpose of the road and the type of pavement. tile can be put on sand, cement-sand mixture (carving) and even concrete, at high loads on it.

Despite the fact that there are generally established masonry technologies, each master has his own characteristics in his work. Someone says: “I lay paving stones inexpensively”, and someone takes a high fee, but gives a long-term guarantee on the quality of the product. Therefore, in order not to think about how much it costs to lay paving slabs, you need to know for yourself how to lay paving stones correctly.

As a result, you can save on the work of the master and make quality paving but it takes a lot of hard work. To properly do all the work with your own hands, step-by-step instructions will be simply necessary, especially for a person who has never encountered this type of work before.

Work performance technology

Before laying paving slabs, must pass some training. Need to foresee all the nuances in order to achieve the desired result. How to properly lay paving slabs is often indicated by the paving stone manufacturers themselves, but each master has already developed his own technology in practice.

1. Preparation for paving stones. First of all, you need to define - when to start work. It is recommended to start work in the spring. The purpose of the road is determined. If this is a walking path, then it will be enough to use tiles with a thickness of 40 mm. For a road that will be periodically operated by a car, thicker paving stones will be needed. Moreover, if pavement will be subjected to heavy load, then the paving stones rest on a concrete screed. The footpath can be laid on sand or a cement-sand dry mix. But before laying the paving stones on the sand, it is necessary to arrange a reliable foundation.



2. Territory marking. Before laying paving stones with your own hands, it is necessary to mark the territory and excavate. The scope of work is determined by the paving parameters. At this stage it is important correctly determine the width of the road so that you do not have to cut a single tile. Also, you need to take into account the thickness of all seams.

   For marking in the corners of the future road, pegs are driven in and lighthouse cords are pulled. They show the level of the road surface, so the horizontal must be checked with a water level. The road is arranged in such a way that rainwater is drained.



3. Excavation. Under the paving place, the earth is taken out up to a depth of 50 cm. The plant layer can be used for the device landscape design. The bottom of the earthen structure is leveled and carefully rammed with a vibrating plate or manual rammer.
4. Geotextile flooring. Geotextiles are spread at the bottom of the earthen structure and its walls. It increases the strength of the product and ensures its integrity. Masters of the old school often perform work without a fabric membrane, without taking into their arsenal modern materials. But this innovation is significant. improves quality road surface.



5. Gravel backfill. Crushed stone in fractions of 20 x 40 mm is poured into a trench and carefully compacted with a rammer or vibrating plate. The backfill must be at least 100 mm thick. This thickness is permissible only for the pedestrian zone; for entrances, a crushed stone backfill thickness of more than 150 mm is required.
6. Border device. Borders are installed according to pre-made markings. A cement-sand mortar is mixed and applied to the base along the curb device. The blocks are installed in the design position on the solution and adjusted according to the level. The solution is prepared in a ratio of 1:3. After installing the curbs, it is necessary leave work for the day for the solution to gain strength.



7. Sand filling device. On the compacted crushed stone, a sand cushion with a thickness of 150 mm is made. Backfilling with sand is carried out in several stages in layers of 5 - 7 cm. Each layer is watered with water from a hose and rammed with a vibrating plate. Sand is better to take river without clay impurities. In this case, the water will drain into the soil and not linger in the backfill.
8. Backfilling with carving. Before you lay out paving slabs, you need to take care of the strength of its installation. To do this, a cement-sand dry mixture is poured onto the sand. It is evenly distributed with a rake over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe masonry. Gartsovka is prepared from sand with a cement content of approximately 1:8. When water gets on the carving, the cement hardens and firmly fixes the paving stones in its place.
9. Paving stone laying. Having decided on the pattern of the sidewalk, you can start paving the paving stones. It is necessary to learn how to lay paving stones with your own hands in appropriate conditions and the features of the work.

   The paving stone is placed in the corner, and its further laying is carried out from itself, observing the given pattern. The tile is installed on the cutter and sealed with rubber mallet. The level is set by the beacon cord. If the surface of the pavers is above the specified level, then you need to remove the laid material and slightly remove the bedding layer. If the surface level is below the lighthouse, then it will be possible to make additional bedding. Each tile is tightly fitted one to the other.

   If necessary, paving stones can be cut with a grinder with a diamond wheel for cutting stone. The laid paving stones are checked by level and rule. It should be arranged in such a way that rainwater flows off and puddles do not form.



10. Seam filling. After the paving stones are laid, it is necessary to fill the masonry joints. To do this, a dry cement-sand mixture is poured onto the road surface and evenly distributed over the entire surface. The mixture fills the seams, and the excess is removed with a broom or broom. After that, the masonry is watered with water from a hose. Gartsovka, coming into contact with water - hardens and firmly fixes the masonry.

    If a road is being paving, which will be periodically operated by a car, then it is necessary to arrange reinforced iron concrete base. In this case, paving stones with a thickness of 60 mm or more are used, it is placed on a cement-sand mortar.

Many owners of private houses are interested in how to lay paving slabs. This finishing material now very popular for the design of adjacent territories. Paving slabs allow you to create not only ordinary masonry, but also a kind of multi-colored mosaic of elements irregular shape.

The main advantages of paving slabs

Not everyone knows how to lay paving slabs correctly. After all, it is relatively new material. However, paving slabs have already become more in demand than the well-known paving stones.

Among the main advantages of paving slabs, one should name such properties as:

• low cost;
• simple laying technology;
• durability;
• environmental friendliness;
• resistance to aggressive environmental influences;
• variety of shapes and colors;
• the ability to create bright and original elements of landscape design.

To lay out a path or a platform with paving slabs yourself, you do not need special technical skills and knowledge, only the ability to handle conventional tools. If during the installation process you strictly follow the procedure and try a little, everything will definitely work out.

How to choose a tile

Thick tiles (more than 60 mm) can withstand the weight of a truck with a full body. Such tiles are usually in the form of small bars. This gives the cladding additional strength.

It is not difficult to figure out how to properly lay paving slabs. The main condition for a novice master is to choose a small area for the first experiments. The garden path is the best. It is better to choose a tile in one color, square or rectangular.

Site marking and base preparation

First you need to calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe track or area. It calculates the required number of tiles. You need to purchase material with a margin of 10-15% in case of damage to the material. In order not to be mistaken in the calculations, you can draw a plan for the future site. This will facilitate the necessary calculations and calculations.

Curbs are needed along the edges of the path. This will help maintain the integrity of the structure. The border should be several times thicker than the selected tile. It is necessary to lay tiles only on a properly prepared base, not only the appearance, but also the strength of the structure depends on this.

The right base for paving slabs

To perform all the necessary work, you will need the following tools:

• shovels - shovel and bayonet;
• grinder saw;
• spatulas;
• rule;
• building level;
• roulette;
• rubber mallet or mallet;
• twine or cord, woods;
• Master OK;
• rake;
• mixing container.

First you need to outline the location of the track or platform. To do this, pegs are driven into the ground on both sides of the track. A cord or twine is tied to them. You need to walk along the marked area in different directions in order to determine the correct marking and the optimal location of the site or track. In the course of work, the markup can be adjusted.

drainage system

Do-it-yourself technology for laying paving slabs requires drainage work. On clayey swampy ground with a high location ground water internal drainage required. To do this, in the process of excavation, the required slope is formed, mounted drainage pipes for water drainage.

On dry soil, it is enough to arrange external drainage. To do this, paving slabs on the path are laid with a slope of 2 or 3 ° towards the curb. Some of the water will seep through the seams between the tiles.

Foundation construction

Under the foundation you need to dig a ditch. Upper layer soil is removed to a depth of 20 cm. Remains of vegetation must be removed. The bottom must be leveled and compacted. If the soil is very weak, a concrete screed is laid under the future construction of paving slabs. This will strengthen the foundation and ensure the longevity of the walkway or playground.

Reinforced concrete base under paving slabs

Then the curbs are installed. Between them, a pillow of fine-grained (10-20) crushed stone or gravel is poured. Bulk material must be leveled and slightly compacted.

Borders on both sides of the track must be installed in parallel. The internal space between them should accommodate the required number of tiles. In this case, it is necessary to take into account mounting gaps of 2-3 mm. Then a mortar for concreting curbs is prepared. Cement grade M300 or higher and sifted sand are taken. Proportion 1:2.

The gravel pad at the bottom of the trench is covered with coarse wet sand, which must be leveled. The thickness of the sand cushion after sand compaction should be at least 3-5 cm. To control from the top edge of the curb down, you need to measure 1.5 tile thicknesses.

Tiles are laid on top. If its position exceeds the desired level by 1 cm, the sand can be compacted. To do this, the finished pillow must be moistened abundantly and left for several hours. Tamp tightly. A day later, you can start laying tiles. The main thing is that the concrete poured under the curbs is completely frozen.

Laying tiles on sand and gravel

Tiles are laid in clear, dry weather. Wind, rain, dampness complicate the installation process and can worsen the result, especially if the master does not yet have the necessary skills. The path is laid out in the direction away from you, it is impossible to stand on a sand and gravel cushion during work.

Before laying paving slabs with your own hands, you need to prepare the mounting mixture. For it, dry, sifted fine sand and cement are taken in a ratio of 3: 1 or a ready-made composition purchased at a building materials store.

Laying tiles on cement-sand mixture

So that the track can be dismantled later, the tiles need to be laid only on the sand. Dry mix or sand is poured to a thickness of not more than 4 cm, you need to level the pillow. When backfilling, you can use guides from reinforcing bars, tubes, etc. The mixture is distributed over the working surface with a trowel or rake and leveled using a rule.

If the path is narrow, sand is poured between the curbs and leveled with a trowel. With the help of the level, you need to arrange a drainage slope. During work, the master moves along the length of the path, holding a bucket of sand and tools at hand. On a wide path, the dry mixture is poured over the beacons. The height of the beacons is reduced by 1 cm every meter of the width of the future track to ensure water flow.

Alignment of the base on the beacons

On top of the finished masonry, you need to fill in the sand and grout the laid out surface with a hard mop. Instead of sand, special grouts can be used. The order of work with them is indicated on the packaging.

Laying tiles on a concrete base

Preparatory work for laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out in a similar way. First, the tile is laid on a work surface covered with sand.

To prepare the mortar, use M500 cement. It must be diluted with water to the desired consistency. It is better to mix the solution with an electric drill or a construction mixer. Gradually add sand to the mixture of water and cement. It should be 4 times more than dry cement.

When laying on concrete, a strict sequence must be observed. Tiles are removed one by one from the sand cushion. For 1 time, you need to remove 4 elements of preliminary masonry. A solution is applied to the vacated area. It needs to be evenly distributed. Having laid the tiles on top of the mortar, it is necessary to trim and lightly press down with a mallet. When laying between the tiles, special spacers made of wood are installed to obtain the necessary gap. When the entire track or platform is laid out, the remaining solution must be removed from the surface.

Some rules for laying tiles

In order for the laid material to be even and beautiful along the entire length of the track, it is necessary to carefully lay out the initial row of tiles. Across the track, you need to stretch the fishing line with a drainage slope towards the curb. The first tile is installed 0.5 cm from the curb. In the longitudinal direction, laying is controlled by the level.

On the path, the tiles are laid diagonally and rammed with a mallet. Between the elements you need to leave a gap of 2 mm. The laid out row must be carefully examined and all errors immediately corrected. It is usually enough to correct the amount of sand under protruding or sinking elements. An evenly laid initial row is a guarantee that the entire path will turn out neat and beautiful.

Rammer will speed up the work of laying paving slabs

If non-whole tiles are supposed to be laid out in the masonry, they should be laid out last. To correctly outline the cut line, the tile must be attached to the installation site. A hacksaw is good for cutting tiles, but the work will go very slowly. Therefore, you need to cut paving slabs with a grinder. A diamond disc is installed on it. Can be used special knife. You need to work in protective glasses.

Sealing seams and cracks

When the installation of paving slabs is completed, it is necessary to close up small gaps. To do this, you need to prepare a solution of cement with a high content liquid glass. This will give the structure resistance to aggressive environmental influences. A mixture of sand and cement or sand is poured into the assembly joints between the individual elements.

Sand for filling cracks and assembly joints can only be used clean. A small amount of organic elements or salts will subsequently lead to the appearance of small flora on a paved area. Plants will spoil the appearance of the structure and reduce its strength.

Compaction of sand is carried out with a hose with a narrow spray. The procedure must be repeated several times. Bulk material is added each time. The density of the backfill of the assembly joints will ensure the strength and durability of the entire masonry.

Options for laying paving slabs

Paving slabs allow you to create various shapes and ornaments in the local area. You can use ready-made laying schemes or come up with your own version of the design of the track or platform.

The most common options for laying paving slabs:

• herringbone;
• network;
• checkerboard;
• random mix;
• circular pattern.

Using multi-colored elements of different shapes, alternating styling options, you can create interesting compositions based on the principle of ordinary mosaics or puzzles.

Geometric laying of paving slabs

Curly masonry is best done first on a site near the work site. This will allow you to correct individual errors or change something in advance. When the work surface is ready, the tiles are gradually transferred to it and stacked in the desired order.

To tile a round area, you need to make a primitive compass from wooden slats with pointed ends. With its help, a circle is drawn on the prepared area over the sand cushion. Next, the tile is laid out from the outer edge to the center of the site.

Use and care

A freshly laid paving slab path will be ready for use 2-3 days after all work is completed. To remove dust and debris, the path is usually swept with a broom and washed with a stream of water from a hose. Deep patterns with bright colors need to be cleaned more often and more carefully than ordinary masonry.

The sand laid in the tile joints is gradually washed out as the path or platform is used. Therefore, it must be topped up as needed. Damaged structural elements (such as cracked tiles) are easily replaced with new ones.

Paving slabs are unstable to mechanical stress, so they cannot be cleaned with abrasive powder. It is better to use sifted river sand.

Do not use strong chemicals to remove stains. A mild soapy solution is sufficient. It is applied with a soft brush and then washed off with a hose.

V winter time snow and ice must be carefully removed without using metal tools. Can be used with rubber tip. This will save the decorative tiles. So that the path is not slippery, it must be sprinkled with ordinary clean sand.

In the process of beautifying the area around country house or cottages, responsible owners cannot do without the organization of paths, areas in front of the house or in the depths of the garden, intended for summer holidays or car parking. The easiest way, of course, is to roll them into asphalt or concrete, but these materials by no means add aesthetics and exclusivity to the site. Therefore, in recent times, most of the owners of estates stop at paving slabs.

It is quite possible, but it will take a lot of time, so it is better to do this work with an assistant. The process should be carried out strictly in stages, and each of the technological steps should be performed carefully and slowly.

Tools and materials for work

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare everything necessary for this - working equipment and materials.

• Of the tools you will need:

- Shovels - bayonet and shovel for excavation.

— Rake for leveling bulk building materials.

- Wooden stakes or pins from pieces of reinforcement, as well as twine (cord) for marking the territory.

- Rubber mallet for leveling tiles and borders.

- Building level and tape measure.

- Brush or broom for spreading sand over the laid tiles.

— Rammer manual or mechanical, depending on the size of the improved area.

- A long, even pipe or guides for leveling the sand, if the tiles will be laid without a cement-sand mixture.

- A grinder with a disc for cutting stone. You can’t do without it in cases where you have to cut paving blocks.

• From the materials for the work you need to purchase:

a) The paving slab. It can be made using different technologies and from various materials. Accordingly, its characteristics are somewhat different. Some basic properties of different types of paving slabs are in the attached table:

Performance	Polymer tiles	Concrete vibrocast	Concrete vibropressed
Average density in kg/m³	1650-1800	2320-2400	2200-2400
Mass water absorption	0.15	4-4,5	5,5-6,5
Compressive strength, MPa	17-18	40-50	40
Bending strength, MPa	17-25	6-7	5-5,5
Frost resistance, cycles	Over 500	300-400	200-300
Abrasion, g / sq. cm	0,05-0,1	0,3-0,4	0,5-0,7

In addition, when buying paving slabs, it is necessary to take into account other points that are important for the reliability and aesthetics of future paths and sites. For example, for a site that will not experience heavy loads, it is quite suitable, having a thickness of up to 60 mm. If it is assumed that a car will drive into the area to be paved, then it is necessary to choose paving stones with a thickness of 60 or more millimeters.

At the same time, of course, the owners must decide on the configuration of the tile, its colors, etc. Different types and shades of blocks allow you to lay out mosaic drawings, therefore, if there is a desire not to be limited to simple “gray” paving, then you should think in advance about the pattern and, accordingly, the number of tiles of a particular color and shape. It is possible that the table with some popular models of paving slabs below will help with this:

Tiles in masonry	product name	Dimensions in mm			Weight in kg	Quantity, pcs. in 1 m²	Single tile view
		L	B	H
	3.F.6 "Wave"	240	120	60	3.6	40
	3.F.8 "Wave"	240	120	80	4.66	40
	1.P.4 "Rectangle"	197	97	40	1.9	50
	1.P.6 "Rectangle"	197	97	40	1.9	50
	1.P.8 "Rectangle"	197	97	40	1.9	50
	1.K.6 "Square"	197	197	60	5.43	25
	1.K.6 "Corner"	197	197/97	60	4.05	34

L- length, V — width, H-height

What else you need to pay special attention to when choosing a tile, in addition to the above characteristics? There are criteria for evaluating paving blocks that have been practically tested:

- The quality of a tile can be determined without looking at the characteristics by hitting one block against another - if a dull sound is heard, then too much water has been added to the mixture for making paving stones. If the sound upon impact turns out to be ringing, then the tile is made according to the technology and is of high quality.

- If you liked paving stones, which have a very bright color, but its cost is quite low, then, most likely, low-quality coloring pigments were used, which, firstly, are unstable in themselves, and secondly, they significantly reduce the strength qualities of the tile.

It is very important to buy tiles from the same production batch, because otherwise the blocks may differ not only in size and color, but also in the composition of the mixture from which they were made.

Like everyone else Construction Materials, paving slabs must be purchased with a "reserve", based on 15% more than the area of ​​​​the proposed paving. Spare blocks will be needed in case of a random fight, marriage, damage and inevitable waste during cutting.

b) Borders for fencing a paved area.

v) Geotextile, the size of which must exceed the laying area by 200 ÷ 250 mm on each side, so that it is located on the walls of the recesses for laying layers.

G) Materials for laying litterlayers — sand, gravel or crushed stone, cement. Their number is calculated depending on the area to be covered, the number, type and expected thickness of the backfill layers.

e) A can of brightly colored paint. It is convenient for them to do preliminary markup without any effort. The paint can be replaced with lime, which is scattered, marking the edges of the future path or platform.

e) Reinforcing bars for site concreting. It is far from always needed - it will be required only if the base for the masonry needs to be strengthened.

Having prepared everything you need, you can proceed to marking work on the site.

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

Carrying out the marking of the territory

The first thing to do is to determine and mark out the area where the platform or path that needs to be paved will be located. For the preliminary stage, you will need a tape measure and a spray can of bright color paint. Measurements must be started from the house, gate, fence or other building, to which the tiled area will adjoin.

It all starts with marking...

The required distance along the length and width is measured from the building, while marks are made in the form of dots or lines with paint. If the path is covered with tiles, then several more measurements are taken along its direction in order to maintain the specified width. It is recommended that the area parameters be adjusted to the size of the tile, that is, it is best to set dimensions that are multiples of the tile parameters so that it has to be cut as little as possible.

Having made a preliminary marking, which will set the direction or determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, you can proceed to the exact marking with the installation of pegs and pulling the cords.

In any case, all measurements and drawing lines start from one specific reference point, to which the further location of all other landmarks is tied.

Let's assume that the corner of the house is taken as a reference point. In this case, near it and the width of the track or platform, as well as at their end, pegs are hammered onto which the string is pulled, limiting the place where further work will be carried out.

When marking the main area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe path or resting place, one must not forget that borders will have to support the construction of all layers, for which it is also necessary to provide a place on one or both sides of the laid paving slabs.

1 - pegs;

2 - twine;

3 - soil after soil removal;

4 - backfilling with sand.

Preliminary site preparation

The preparation of the site is carried out in different ways, depending on its purpose, since paving slabs are laid out not only for paths and places for recreation, but also for parking lots that require higher strength. Therefore, site preparation and laying of layers may vary.

In any case, no matter what the site is intended for, after determining its exact location, they proceed to the preparatory work, which consists in digging a relatively shallow pit. Its depth will depend on the materials of the laid layers and their thickness. For work, you will need a bayonet and shovel shovel, as well as a wheelbarrow for transporting cut soil.

The top layer of soil must be removed to a thickness of up to 150 ÷ ​​200 mm, together with the roots of all plants located on this site. This fertile soil should not be taken out of the site - it can be used for arranging

If additional reinforcement is necessary for the construction of the site, then the pit is deepened to 400 ÷ 500 mm.

The site freed from the soil should be fairly flat, it would be nice to walk along it with a hand rammer to compact the top loosened soil. If serious depressions have formed on it during the excavation of the soil, they must be sprinkled with soil and additionally compacted these places, bringing the entire surface to the same level.

These work are carried out in the same way for laying tiles on a wide variety of sites or paths, but further preparation work can vary greatly.

First option

First of all, it is worth considering how the bedding layers are laid for areas that will not be exposed to these are paths, recreation areas or pedestrian areas in front of the house, blind areas around it.

In this case, the following materials are laid in the prepared pit on the soil surface - geotextiles, crushed stone or gravel, sand and a cement-sand mixture. It should be noted that sometimes paving slabs are laid simply on a compacted layer of sand.

Following this scheme, the backfill layers must be laid as follows:

• Geotextiles are laid on the ground, which will prevent vegetation from growing through the laid layers and paving slabs. In addition, it in a certain way performs a kind of reinforcing function.
• Above is a layer of gravel or crushed stone, which is poured with a slight elevation at the center of the site or paths - this must be done so that the water does not linger on the paved surface, but flows towards the curbs. Then the gravel is leveled and rolled, but the shape of the sloping "hill" is preserved. The compacted layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm.

Compaction of gravel "cushion" with a vibrating plate

• After the gravel is compacted, the site around the entire perimeter or along the future path is fenced with curbs.

The curbs enclosing the site are installed between it and the vertical edge of the ground located along the perimeter of the area (or along the path). Curb blocks are fixed on, laid on a compacted pillow of crushed stone or gravel. The evenness of the curbs is measured by level, and if necessary, corrected with a rubber mallet.

Enclosing blocks can also be placed on top of a sand bank. In any case, the trench for their installation should have such a depth that after laying the tiles, the curb rises above it by the level of the paved area by 50 ÷ 60% of its height.

• Further, gravel is poured layer of sand spread over the surface with a rake, well moistened, and then compacted. In compacted form, the thickness of the sand layer should be from 50 to 100 mm.

You can tamp the sand with a manual tamper, a roller or a special tamping machine - this will depend on the size of the area being prepared.

Ramming cement-sand mixture

• The next step is preparing a sand-cement mixture and spreading it on top of the sand, then moistening and also compacting. In the compacted state, the thickness of this layer should be 20 ÷ 40 mm.

The second preparation option is for heavy loads

This preparation option is carried out if the site is intended for parking. It is clear that for such a purpose a stronger and more reliable base is required so that the surface does not sag over time. This is exactly the option when the pit should have a depth of 400-500 mm.

• In this case, a backfill of sand is made on the prepared and compacted soil. It is moistened and compacted, and when finished, the sand layer should be 100 ÷ 150 mm. To accurately determine the thickness of the layers, their value can be marked in advance on the walls of the pit. To do this, the height is measured with a tape measure and marked with paint from a spray can through a thin tube, around the entire perimeter of the pit.
• In the same way, the next layer is laid, consisting of gravel or an average fraction of crushed stone. It is also leveled and compacted, and in the compacted state should be at least 100 ÷ 150 mm. This "cushion" will serve as a reliable base for the next layer.
• To strengthen the foundation for paving stones, a reinforcing metal grating with cells of 80 × 80 or 100 × 100 mm is laid on the gravel layer. The finished grating can be replaced with metal bars of reinforcement 6 ÷ 8 mm thick, which are laid in the form of a grate and fastened with a wire twist.

• Guide beacons are installed on the grate. They are raised to the height of the screed thickness, which should be about 100 ÷ 120 mm. The beacons are set at the building level and fixed on the slides from the concrete solution.
• While the mortar dries, curbs are installed around the site, and if they are not provided or they are planned to be installed later, then for the screed, at its height, a formwork of bricks or boards is installed.
• After the solution under the beacons has set, concrete can be poured onto the site, consisting of sand and cement, in a ratio of 3: 1. The solution is distributed over the surface, thicker than the beacons, and then, with the help of a rule that is led along the guides, as if on rails, it is leveled to their level. It is advisable to fill the entire site in one go. If you have to postpone the filling of part of the site until tomorrow, then it is recommended to cover the already filled area plastic wrap. The screed is left to set and harden - this period will last from 7 to 12 days. In order for the screed to be more durable, it must be moistened daily with water for 3 ÷ 5 days, starting from the day after pouring, and then covered with plastic wrap.
• When the screed is ready, borders are installed on the concrete solution along its perimeter. This option is suitable if the enclosing elements have a small height. The solution under the curbs should also grab, and only after that you can move on to the next layer.

• Temporary beacons 20 ÷ 40 mm high are installed on a flat fenced concreted surface - this is the height that the next dry layer, consisting of sand and cement, should have. It is kneaded in advance and poured onto a concrete platform, and then distributed with a shovel and rake, and after that it is leveled by the rule according to the beacons.

Third option - when laying tiles on the sand

This option is most often chosen when apparently because it is less labor intensive than the two described above. In this method, paving is carried out on a sand cushion.

1 - soil;

2 - curbs;

3 - concrete mortar;

4 - crushed stone;

5 - sand;

6 - paving stones.

• If this laying option is chosen, then the pit should have a depth of 200 ÷ 250 mm, but along its perimeter or along the edges of the path a trench is dug 100 ÷ 150 mm deeper than the main pit. This trench will be necessary for the installation of curbs - preparations for the main work begin with them.

• Crushed stone of the middle fraction is poured into the trench and compacted, with a layer of 50 mm.
• A thick concrete solution is laid out on top of it.
• Curbs are exposed and leveled on it. Having installed them, you do not need to wait until the concrete grabs - you can immediately proceed to the next operation. The height of the curb should be calculated in such a way that after laying the tiles, it rises above it by 70 ÷ 80 mm.

• At the bottom of the entire pit between the curbs, gravel backfill is made, which is leveled and compacted. In compacted form, the thickness of this layer should be 100 ÷ 120 mm. The crushed stone layer serves as a reinforcing component of the structure, as well as its drainage, which will prevent water from stagnating under the tiles.
• Sand is poured on top of the crushed stone, wetted, compacted, and then its surface is leveled according to the sand installed deep into the beacon guides. The thickness of the sand layer should also be 100 ÷ 120 mm.

It should be noted that the leveling of compacted sand over large areas is best done as the tiles are laid, so as not to do this work twice. When part of the site is paved with paving stones, it will be possible to level the entire surface, and further work do standing on an already paved area of ​​the site, that is. carry out the installation of tiles from yourself.

Paving slabs

It must be said right away that tiles are laid equally on a sand and sand-cement cushion. The main thing is that the surface is well prepared.

Half of the success is a site very carefully prepared for paving

• Before you start laying tiles on a prepared surface, you need to understand the design of the docking of blocks of different shapes and sizes. This "training process" can be carried out on a normal flat surface, such as a workbench. and will consist of two ÷ three types or sizes of tiles, then in order not to get confused, it is best to draw up a diagram that you can keep next to you during work.

• In the event that there is a stop line for the first row on the site, for example, the wall of a house, then you can start laying from it. It will be easier to mount the tiles, starting from the installed curb, as it has even surfaces and is already horizontally leveled.

• The first row of masonry is carried out along a straight line, and it should consist of solid tiles. If figured tiles are laid, then its cut-off parts, which will make the outer rows even, are laid after the installation of paving stones is completed on the main area of ​​​​the site.
• The tile, laid on a sand or combined cushion, is well pressed against its surface and tapped with a rubber mallet.

Continuation of the laying of curly tiles: the edges - "castles" must match

There is always a small gap between individual paving blocks, from 3 to 5 mm. If you look at the high-quality tiles carefully, you can see that this gap will be provided by special profile protrusions that are vertically located on the side faces.

• Next, comes the second row, provided for by the scheme. If paving stones of different sizes and curly edges are chosen, then the joints between the two rows will become a kind of lock that will not allow one tile to retreat from the other.

The third and subsequent rows are mounted in the same way.

• If there are obstacles in the way of masonry, for example, a canopy pipe or a sewer hatch, whole tiles are installed around them, and laying out the halves should also be left at the end of the work, when the whole tile is laid on the entire site.

Areas around incoming interference are temporarily left - they can be permanently tiled later

• Reaching up to before zhdepriemnik under the drainpipe (if paving is done around the basement of the building), first check installation and deepening of the storm water inlet itself with a grate, and connecting a discharge pipe to it. Then this entire structure is covered with a layer of sand with an appropriate seal, and then paving slabs are laid on top.

• Having laid out a certain area, the paving stones are immediately “swept”, that is, the gaps between the individual tiles are filled with a mixture of sifted dry sand and cement (the usual proportion for this is 5:1 or even 6:1). The dry mixture is poured onto the laid tile, and then the entire surface is swept with a brush or broom with a little pressure, thus filling all the gaps between the tiles with this composition.

• When the entire surface is covered, you can begin to fit and install the cutting parts. The remaining empty spaces are carefully measured, then a cut line is marked on the tile, along which a cut is made using a grinder with a set circle on the stone. The remaining empty areas of the site are filled with finished fragments, and then the same backfilling and sweeping is carried out using a dry sand-cement mixture.

• After the laying of paving slabs is completed, it is recommended to carefully compact it by walking over it with a vibrating plate, which will level the entire surface to one level and make the paved area more durable.

• If a path that has turns and bends is lined with paving slabs, then there may be wider gaps between the tiles in the turning areas, but they should not exceed 7 ÷ 8 mm. If such a gap is not enough, then cut out fragments of the desired configuration or purchase a special tile, which is designed for turns and is made taking into account the required angle.

The process of laying paving slabs is quite laborious, but the result will not only please the eye, but also add comfort while walking along garden plot In any weather. Having made an effort and listening to the recommendations, a caring owner will be quite able to pave the paths and sites of the site on his own, but this will require patience and, of course, desire.

And in conclusion - a video, which, we hope, will also be useful in the initial development of the technology of laying paving slabs:

Video: a small visual lesson on laying paving slabs

Reading 11 min. Published on 22.10.2019

Paving slabs are a beautiful, durable and inexpensive material that can be used to decorate the local area. However, hiring installers can be expensive. Consider how paving slabs are laid on personal plot with your own hands.

Paving slabs are a beautiful, durable and inexpensive material that can be used to decorate the local area. However, hiring installers can be expensive. That is why many people want to lay the tiles with their own hands without outside help. But not everyone knows how to do it right. Let's talk in more detail about how to lay paving slabs in the yard on your own plot.

How to choose paving slabs?

When choosing a tile, you need to pay attention to whole line important parameters. One of the most important is the thickness of the material. It will depend on it how long the paved area will last. The thickness is selected based on the operating conditions of the pavers. Here are the rules to help you determine it correctly:

• for the area where people will move on foot (paths, walking areas, paths), tiles with a thickness of 50 - 60 mm will suffice;
• if on a paved surface there will be vehicles or other heavy objects (such as mobile concrete beds), the thickness should be between 60 and 80 mm.

Next important point- the material from which the coating is made. It affects not only its aesthetics, appearance, but also strength, service life, and the ability to withstand significant loads during operation. Most often, paving slabs are made from:

• natural stone;
• clinker;
• concrete;
• polymer mixture;
• plastic;
• rubber.

The most durable and durable products made of stone and clinker. However, it must be remembered that their price is by no means democratic. Therefore, if you need to pave a large area, but you do not have significant funds, these options should be immediately dismissed. But if you need to lay out several paths or a small area, it is worth taking a closer look at them - both stone and clinker paving stones will last almost forever.

The second place in terms of strength and durability is occupied by products made of concrete and a polymer mixture. It is not as strong as clinker and stone, but it will be enough for a dozen or two years of service. At the same time, such tiles are much cheaper. But it should be borne in mind that it is sensitive to serious loads and mechanical stress. For example, if you drop a heavy object on a stone, it will only get a scratch. But if such an object falls on a product made of concrete or a special polymer, it may crack.

Also, pavement tiles are made of plastic and a special rubber compound. It should be said right away: such paving stones have a short service life, low strength and low reliability. However, this is more than offset by the price - it costs a penny. It is worth looking in her direction if:

• you are very constrained in finances;
• tiles are not planned to be subjected to serious loads;
• paved areas will rarely be used for their intended purpose (this, for example, is relevant for giving, where they spend only 1-2 months a year).

The last thing you need to pay attention to is the shape of the tile. Technical requirements and operating conditions here have little effect on the choice - aesthetics are at the forefront. Each of the forms of pavers has its own marking. Below is a table that shows the relationship between marking indexes and material geometry.

Some points are better explained. These are decorative tiles and paving stones for the border. The first is a separate decorative elements, which are included in the masonry of tiles of a different shape. The second is designed to create an even border on a hexagonal or figured tile (this cannot be done using ordinary concrete blocks). As for the other forms, everything is clear with them anyway.

paving slabs

Materials for laying paving slabs

The only additional material during the work is sand. It acts as the base for the tiles. If desired, you can add a little cement to it - this will make the “cushion” at the base of the paving stones more durable.

Other materials can be used instead of sand. Most often they are:

• gravel;
• cement mortar.

It should be noted that all materials for a concrete base can be combined with each other. There are no strict rules for such a combination - if you think that your option is more suitable for the base in a particular area, in specific operating conditions, you should use it.

If the tiles are laid on concrete mortar or sand, reinforcing elements can be used as an additional material, which give the base strength and better fix the paving stones. Most often, their role is played by a steel mesh. It is placed:

• to create a stronger foundation - in the thick of mortar or sand;
• for better fixation of tiles - closer to the surface of the base.

In addition, you will need a border to frame a walkway or paved area. This element of pavers is most often made of concrete. Today, there are many options for borders of various colors and geometric solutions on the market. It must be remembered that if you are laying a hexagonal or figured tile, it will not work to frame it with a traditional even border. Between it and the masonry there should be a tile for the border, which has the index D. Of course, you can consider the option of filling the gap with concrete mortar. But such a site will look completely unaesthetic.

cement mortar

List of styling tools

So, what is needed in order to lay out paving slabs on the backyard or suburban area? Here is the most complete list of tools needed to carry out such work:

• Master OK;
• mallet made of rubber or wood;
• manual tamper;
• Bulgarian;
• pegs (wooden pegs are best, although metal pegs can also be used);
• cord to create a straight line of tiles and borders;
• building level;
• a device for watering the base (a watering can or a hose can act as its role - it is important that the liquid is distributed evenly and does not lead to blurring);
• rake;
• broom.

Bulgarian

How to lay paving slabs with your own hands (step by step instructions)

Below is a step-by-step instruction for laying paving slabs.

Choose the layout of paving slabs - diagrams, patterns, drawings

The drawing of a tile depends only on the imagination of the one who lays it out. However, there are several well-established patterns that are used most often and that can often be found on city streets and home gardens. Here they are.

• Stripe alternation. It is a simple pattern, the essence of which boils down to the fact that two thin strips of tiles of a different color cut through a path or paved area. The width of such strips is usually 2-3 bricks.
• Imitation brickwork. The tile imitates the laying of large bricks. This imitation is also achieved by alternating colors. Elements of one tone form rectangles (bricks), and elements of another tone form streaks of mortar between them.
• "Herringbone". In this case, the paving stones are laid according to the Soviet scheme for laying parquet boards - herringbone.
• Chess. Tiles are laid, imitating a chessboard. To do this, the same alternating squares are formed from light and dark paving stones.
• "Ladder". Brick tiles are laid out in such a way that they look like a ladder.
• A circle. This type of masonry is one or more concentric circles of tiles of different colors. It is difficult to use it on paths, but for round or oval paved areas it is ideal.

It should be remembered that when choosing a pattern, you need to take into account the shape of the tile. For example, a wide square paving stone is not suitable for a “ladder” or “herringbone”, but for a checkerboard masonry or brick imitation it will do.

Marking for laying paving slabs

Before starting work, marking of the site is necessary. It is carried out along the lines of the future path or paved area.

With the help of pegs and a cord, straight lines are laid. They will be the boundaries of the base of the future pavers. In order for the masonry to turn out to be perfectly even and not deviate from straight lines, the stretched cord must be checked using a building level. Otherwise, the path can “lead”, and this is not only ugly, but also impractical, and also affects the durability of the laid tiles.

Preparation of the base for paving slabs

The technology for preparing the base for tiles consists of several stages.

1. Base leveling. The base must be absolutely even, so we remove all the stones from it, dig in holes, remove bumps and tubercles. You will also need to remove the sod layer - tiles should not be laid on the grass in any case.
2. Creating a recess for the base. If you do not want the tile to rise too high above the rest of the area, you need to create a recess for its base. To do this, it is necessary to remove 20 - 25 cm of soil from the territory that we previously fenced. Usually this is enough to place the base. However, in each case, the depth is determined individually - it can be either less or more. First of all, focus on the amount of materials intended for the base.
3. Creating a base cushion. The next step is to create the foundation. Everything is simple here - pour sand or gravel into a previously dug recess, and then level it. Leveling can be difficult - it is quite difficult to carry out. However, the procedure can be greatly simplified. To do this, the sand must not be covered immediately, but in parts. Before falling asleep in the area to be filled, we place two metal pipes or two pieces of metal profile. We pour sand between them, then level it with a board or a metal plate. Ideally, we get almost perfect flat surface and fall asleep in exactly the same order the next section.

If the tile is laid on sand or a sand-cement mixture, it must be evenly moistened with water. The base is moistened until puddles begin to appear on it.

If paving stones are laid on gravel, it is better to pour it not on bare ground, but on a small layer of sand-cement mixture. This will make the base stronger.

Tile treatment before laying

In order for the paving stone to last as long as possible, it is processed before starting work. It consists of two stages.

• Hydrophobization. It consists in impregnating the tiles with special compounds that help the material tolerate high humidity well, while maintaining sufficient air and vapor permeability.
• Applying a protective coating. It consists in applying special varnish and other polymer coatings to the surface of the material, which protect it from the negative effects of the environment.

Another stage of preparation is the formation of bricks for non-standard areas and the installation of a curb. They spend it by sawing tiles with a grinder. In some cases, such formation is not required, but in most situations it is necessary.

Water repellent

Paving slabs

To install paving stones, follow these steps:

1. gently start laying out the tiles on the prepared base, starting from its edge;
2. as you move forward, do not step on already laid elements - place on them wooden board and lean on it;
3. during installation, be sure to check the evenness with the help of a level - this will help to eliminate shortcomings in time;
4. if the tile does not lie flat, hit it several times with a mallet and thereby push it deep into the base;
5. install pre-cut tiles for borders (or use ready-made solutions);
6. install borders.

Everything, installation is finished. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in the procedure.

Grouting is needed not only for aesthetic purposes. The fact is that the seams, in fact, are a base that emerges between the elements of the masonry. However, it is available for any adverse effects. This significantly reduces its service life. That is why after finishing work, the seam must be overwritten.

To qualitatively wipe and align the seams, you will need:

• cement;
• sand;
• water.

You will also need:

• putty knife;
• bucket;
• hose;
• shovel.

For grouting you need:

• sweep or wash away all debris from the surface of the paved area;
• pour a mixture of sand and concrete on the tile, prepared in a ratio of 5 to 1;
• sweep the mixture with a brush;
• Rinse off the rest of the mixture with a hose.

If the first time it was not possible to align the seams, the procedure is repeated again until the desired result is achieved.

It is possible to align the seams on paving slabs not earlier than 3 days after the completion of work on its laying. Otherwise, the base may be damaged.

grout for paving slabs

Care of paving slabs

Lay a little tile. In order for it to last as long as possible, it needs to be looked after. Here are a few rules for caring for paving stones.

• Be sure to spray the newly laid tile with an antifungal solution. Otherwise, mold may appear on the masonry elements themselves and on the seams, which will destroy them over time. Processing should be carried out every 3-4 months, as the solution is washed off by precipitation.
• Be careful when clearing ice and snow. During the procedure, in no case should you use crowbars, shovels, various sharp objects. This can lead to chips and cracks on the tile surface.
• Do not exceed the maximum permissible loads. For example, if the pavement is intended for pedestrians, you cannot drive on it by car. This will lead to sagging.
• Eliminate grass that has sprouted between the seams in a timely manner. Its stems and roots can cause serious damage to paving stones that will require repair.
• It is impossible that oil products (gasoline, motor oils) get on the surface of the coating. If it is made of polymer or concrete with polymer additives, petroleum products can simply partially dissolve it.

Paving slab cleaner

Summing up

Paving slabs are a beautiful and simple coating that is perfect for garden paths and small paved areas in the backyard of a private house or cottage. You can lay the paving stones yourself - it's not at all difficult. However, during work, you must follow the technology, the procedure for preparing the site, remember some important nuances. In this case, the coating will serve you for decades and require minimal repairs.