Why does an electric planer burn through the board and not plan. Optimal methods of working with a modern electric planer

Planing with an electric planer is a fairly easy process if there is at least some minimal knowledge. But things are different if you need to process a very wide board.

After all, not everyone can do it efficiently, but it is necessary that the layer be removed evenly from the surface of the board, and the processing boundaries were not visible.

Instructions for planing with an electric planer

Before using a wide board with an electric planer, first experiment on a piece that you do not need.

Note that the electric planer can operate in two modes: stationary and manual.
If you use the stationary mode, then the board is passed through the knives of the electric planer.

Manual mode requires a special setting of the electric planer. First you need to adjust the cutting depth of the knives. Usually they set 0.1-0.4 cm. The smaller the depth of planing, the better the processing of the material will be, and you will practically not notice the boundaries between the passes. If it is necessary to perform deep planing of the board, then first set the maximum cutting depth of the knives, make the first pass, and then reconfigure the knives for better planing.

When you work with an electric planer a couple of times, you will learn how to choose the right depth of cut, and the work process will noticeably speed up.

We process wood: what you need to know?

Before processing lumber, you need to determine the direction in which you plan to plan. Usually planed in the direction of the wood fibers. If the lumber is made from several boards, then you need to plan diagonally.

So that the edge of the board does not turn out to be uneven, you need to use an angular stop, which is attached to the base of the electric planer on the side and is perpendicular to its axis.

When you have finished planing a wide board, you will need to align the boundaries between the passes. This stage is called cycling. For this, a special grinder is used, which will remove all roughness.

To begin with, let us briefly formulate the tasks of a planer, as a special class in hand tool: a planer is a woodworking tool for removing chips from the surface with a cutting edge of a blade (knife) fixed in a planer. Its main task in woodworking is the creation and alignment of planes.

With the help of an electric planer, the following more complex operations are also performed:

• planing boards, individual plates;
• chamfering at specified angles;
• by sampling grooves from the edges of the workpiece.

Mounted on a shaft that rotates with an electric motor. It can be said that the fundamental difference between manual and electric planers lies in the difference in their performance, since on a manual planer the chips are removed manually - by energetic movements of the planer with a knife (lezgoy) fixed in it from itself along the workpiece. At the same time, special skills are required to obtain a high-quality result. Yes, and the amount of work performed by a manual planer directly depends on the same skills, dexterity, and physical capabilities of a person working with a manual planer.

Working with an electric planer is incomparably more convenient. It is possible to efficiently process wood with an electric planer both along the direction of the wood fibers and across. The highest quality at the surface wooden blank can be achieved provided that the processing takes place along the fibers of the material. Processing across wood fibers is also used, but, as a rule, only when roughing the material. The extremely high quality of the surface in this case, of course, cannot be achieved, but you can get as close as possible to a certain ideal, knowing and applying special secrets in working with an electric planer. We will try to reveal for you the most interesting of them. Let's start with - as far as it is necessary to remember that in any case, regardless of the type of your planer, it is strongly recommended to securely fix the workpiece being processed before starting its processing. This is the most important safety requirement: an electric planer, with the movement of its rotating sharp knife, can tear out the workpiece, throw it strongly and far to the side. Such an uncontrolled flight of it can easily turn into an injury for someone (unlike a manual planer, which, with “sharp”, incorrect actions of a person, will simply knock the workpiece out of its mount).

We have already mentioned that the main function in work for electric planers is to level some pre-roughly processed wooden surface. After high-quality processing of the planer, such a surface remains not just leveled - it is possible to make it perfectly even and very smooth. All irregularities and defects can disappear after processing with an electric planer. For finishing, finishing wooden surfaces, grinding planes are often used, the design of which provides for the use of knives that have a precisely adjusted low speed. Such grinding planers can provide such a high quality of the wooden surface processed by them that it is possible to abandon the subsequent operation of its grinding.

With the help of an electric planer, you can make grooves in workpieces, create chamfers and perform many other operations, if only the design and power of your planer allows it. Therefore, before buying it is useful to evaluate not only the power of the electric planer, but also the width of its planing. A blade width of 82mm is standard on most handheld electric planers, but professional planers can have planing widths up to 10cm.

Like any power tool, planers differ among themselves depending on the power of their electric motors. The frequency of rotation of the shaft with blades on the planer directly depends on this indicator and determines the possible depth of processing of the workpiece on this planer. It is the speed of rotation of the shaft with knives, in many respects, that ensures the quality of the surface obtained as a result of work on a wooden workpiece.

The optimal power for an electric planer can be considered as 700-750 watts, although it is useful to mention the wonderful Japanese planers with a power of 1050 watts or German cordless planers with a battery voltage of 14.4 volts. When choosing an electric planer for themselves, professionals pay close attention, in addition to power, to:

• planer weight
• diameter of its drum with cutting knives
• width and depth of processing possible on it.

In an electric planer, the diameter of the drum falls into the number important factors, since the value of this element can compensate for the small power of the planer electric motor. For the quality of the treated surface, the accuracy with which the set values ​​are set for the depth of the passage on the planer is also of great importance. It can be considered a good recommendation that the step of changing the depth of the passage has a value of at least one tenth of a millimeter. Since experienced craftsmen for different materials and different frequencies of processing use different knives on their planer, then for dynamic work it will be convenient for the selected electric planer to have a mechanism for quick replacement of knives. For real important point In assessing the success of the planer design, one can also name the material from which its sole is made, as well as the quality of its surface. The ideal case would be an option in which the sole of the electric planer slides on the board without any difficulty, but the tool itself remains extremely stable. Absolutely smooth surface of the bed obviously does not contribute to this. Therefore, on high-quality electric planers, the sole is cast and specially milled (including from the ends), while applying small, frequent “rifling” of a U-shaped shape. You can see them only with good side lighting, but sometimes you can feel them with your finger by running it along the surface of the base.

The workpiece on the workbench must be securely fixed and always in a horizontal position. Remember that a correctly fixed workpiece should not have any backlash or wobble.

When installing your electric planer on a workpiece, first align the edge of its sole or the end of the blade (if it protrudes) with the drawn line, then firmly press the side stop of the planer to the edge of the board and fix it in this position.

It is advisable to move along the workpiece parallel to your electric planer from the beginning to the very end of each pass. It must be held with both hands.

So that the chamfer does not turn out to be rounded at the end, you should keep the worker running smoothly, without longitudinal skew. And even better, before the start of the passage - take your tool so that the knives are near the end of the board. However, remember: there should not be direct contact between the planer and the workpiece at the moment of switching on.

A chamfer with pre-set parameters for it can also be removed using its special markup. To do this, you first need to draw a line of a given bevel at the end of your workpiece. Then, placing the electric planer at the desired angle, move its knives close to the end of the workpiece and adjust the depth of planing along it so that the planer blades are exactly aligned with the line you have drawn. For accuracy, you can use the stop with adjustable angle.

If you have no experience in chamfering, do not be lazy and make several rough passes before work: after each of them, make adjustments to your work as necessary. This will help you get used to your power tool.

Even the most high-quality and expensive electric planers can have various planing defects. The most frequent among them are:

• "beveled profile"
• "cuts".

As a disadvantage of planing, "beveled profile" is more common and "cured" with difficulty. But it is revealed simply: if you make two or more passes with a slight overlap of their width between each other, then scanty protrusions form on the surface of the workpiece, but still noticeable to the eye. The reason for their occurrence lies in the fact that the edge of one or both knives of your planer is slightly skewed. Before starting planing along the line, it is imperative to consider how both are located planer knives planer relative to the edge of its sole. Be guided in this by the rule that it is not the sole of the planer that should move along the line, but the ends of its knives.

"Infeeds" "become relevant" for the beginning or end of the passage of the planer over the workpiece, when the back sole runs into the board or moves out of it. Visually, they are immediately recognized by the relatively rapid change in depth. If you feel such a "rise" at a small distance from the beginning of the workpiece, then the blades of your planer, apparently, are still located slightly above the level of its rear bed. Feelings of "descent" towards the end of the passage with a planer indicate that the knives, on the contrary, protrude unnecessarily. Even for very experienced woodworkers, a certain amount of unevenness remains at the beginning and at the end of the passage of the planer on the board. The difference is that true craftsmen know how to get rid of them quickly: you just need to leave a small margin along the length of the workpiece. Edges with defects will not be difficult to saw off.

All these defects are associated with inaccurate installation of cutting knives in the drum. To eliminate them, loosen the clamp of the knife holders, and then tighten the adjusting screws with a hexagon, which raise or lower the right or left side clamping block on the electric planer: this is how the correct position for them is set. Details about this are always written in the instructions that accompany each branded planer, but this operation is very delicate, so do not hesitate to entrust it to the service masters for fidelity and do not skimp on it.

If for some reason service workshops are out of your reach, try to help yourself to eradicate defects in planing yourself. For this:

• The electric planer must be disconnected from the network. The blades of his knives are so sharp that at their nominal rotation speed of 15,000 rpm. a simple cut is not limited to an unexpected accidental touch. Have pity on your fingers, and for this - reliably de-energize your tool. Do not neglect this - even domestic dogs are euthanized during treatment, and after all, planer knives are much more traumatic than their teeth.
• Applying an exact ruler to the edge of the sole of your planer, establish exactly whether the ends of the cutting knives reach it.
• If the knives are missing to the edge, loosen the bolts holding the blade holder to the drum of your planer to slightly move the knives to the side - so that they are flush with the ruler. There should not be a large gap here, for fidelity, only the most miserable "spade" over the edge can be left.
• Tighten all bolts firmly on the corrected positions of the knives, and at the end be sure to check their tightness.
• Scroll the planer drum with your hands and see if the knives you installed do not touch the body of the electric planer.

If you know in advance that you will use your electric planer far from service centers for its repair, immediately upon purchase, try to find such a model as the MAKITA KR0810 electric planer - with additional adjustment in the height of its shoe, which limits the depth of sampling a quarter on a planer.

After a qualitatively done similar operation, the "steps" from the surfaces processed by your planer should disappear completely and irrevocably.

Disposable electric planer knives often have a double-sided edge, so at first a dull blade is simply turned upside down. However, if it becomes necessary to replace one severely blunt cutting knife, then it is imperative to replace all other knives in the drum of your planer with new ones. Otherwise, an imbalance of its shaft may occur, from which a strong vibration will appear during operation.

Do not lose sight of the moment when you happen to feel the "hole" in the middle of the workpiece. This defect in the work of a planer often manifests itself due to the fact that your pressure on the electric planer has changed dramatically. The reason may be that you are moving your instrument in jerks. When working with an electric planer, it is always a good idea to guide your tool slowly and very evenly. The stability of the parameters of the movement of the planer along the workpiece is the key to accuracy, no matter what specific work the electric planer is currently performing.

To achieve a good result, you should always try to guide the tool evenly, with constant pressure, not allowing your electric planer to lift at some points in the passage. It is highly desirable to avoid slowdowns or stops in the middle of the passage, after which traces in the form of the above-mentioned "pits" will surely remain.

You should not blindly rely on the accuracy of setting your electric planer in terms of the depth of its one-time pass. So, if you set a depth of 2 mm in this setting and make 10 passes, this will not mean that exactly 2 cm has been removed. In such cases, it is always better to navigate along the profile of the groove being created drawn on the end of the workpiece (deviations will be immediately visible). Try to guess in your work so that the last pass on the workpiece is made by you to the smallest depth. In order for the depth of planing to be relatively constant throughout the passage of the planer over the entire workpiece, it is necessary at the beginning of the passage to press harder on the front of the electric planer, and at the end of the passage - already on the back. Pay your special attention to the fact that at the end of the passage, when the side stop of the planer has already moved off the board, for the rest of the distance your electric planer goes as if by inertia, clearly maintaining the direction previously set for it. Do not try to quickly correct his "course" here, because any movement of the hand to the side in this dangerous area will lead to irregularities.

Try to direct your planer in the course of your work, keeping it strictly horizontal, without any transverse distortions. Otherwise, it may turn out that you "fill up" the right corner for yourself. This becomes especially true when planing narrow slots, when your planer is quite unstable.

If, by negligence, at the end of the next pass of the planer, a small “step” remains on the workpiece, then, as experienced craftsmen encourage, it can be removed during the next pass by pressing your planer very tightly against the wall of the groove being created.

Before proceeding with the planned work, look at the maximum depth of a quarter for your planer. For each electric planer, a certain value is set. Compare your plans with him.

The secret for a high-quality selection of a quarter for a groove: here you should always take into account that the side stop of your planer moves along the edge of the board, therefore, the planer itself only repeats the profile of this edge, and it is not always even. Therefore, when working with a side stop, it is useful to guide the electric planer with one hand, and with the other hand firmly, although not too much, press its side stop to the end of the board. At the same time, it is necessary to advance the electric planer so that the side surface of the frame fits snugly against the edge of the already made groove. Your pressure on the instrument in this movement should be directed not only forward, but also sideways.

If possible, always try to connect a vacuum cleaner to the work of your planer. The experience of such connections shows that with it there will be practically no waste left after working on the workbench and the floor of your workshop. It will not be necessary to tediously clean the electric planer and clean the room, which you don’t want to do after a long work, and the service life of the planer when working “hand in hand” with a vacuum cleaner will increase significantly.

There are many planers and planers for planing boards. However, if the board is quite wide, more than 200mm, then it is rather problematic to cut it evenly, along the plane, since one side of the board is convex, and the other with curved edges.

In this case, it is better to use different planing methods. The first way is to walk not with a wide electric planer, through protruding places. This is done in order to evenly carry out planing and prevent the plane of the board from skewing to one of its edges.

At the same time, strict protruding edges, it is necessary, with a small planing thickness, to go through the same number of times on one and the other side. In conclusion, we plan the board on a wide planer. If there is no planer, then on the electric planer, they are installed special knives with rounded ends so that there is a ledge between narrow passages, since the width of the planer when planing is less than the board.

If you have a large machine, then in order to avoid distortions when planing an uneven board, convex on one side, chips are poured onto the frame, after which the board is rubbed and lies flat during planing. Such a simple technique allows you to avoid skew when planing.

The clamping device that many planers are equipped with should not be neglected, as they not only press the board, but also press it evenly. Upon reaching flat surface boards, the main thing is well-sharpened and adjusted knives, plus a thin layer of planing.

If planer you have narrower than the board being processed, then the board should be planed in one pass, then on one side, then on the other. In this way. You will achieve a flat surface of a wide board.

An electric planer is an essential tool for anyone working with wood, and when building or renovating, it can become indispensable assistant. At home home master, as a rule, a traditional hand planer is sufficient, but in a private courtyard or suburban area there is plenty of woodwork. Baths, outbuildings, fences, benches and other furniture - the list goes on and on.

An electric planer will save the master a lot of time and effort and will achieve good results. An electric planer brings the workpieces to the right sizes, level surfaces, remove notches, burrs and knots, cut edges, select grooves. The planer, of course, cannot afford the “fine” surface treatment to perfect smoothness; this will require additional tools. But with its main task - roughing wood in large volumes - an electric planer, subject to the rules of operation, copes perfectly.

As with choosing any power tool, when choosing an electric planer, the master should start from the main tasks in which the tool will be most often involved. An important role is played by the power of the tool, with which its performance is directly related. A planer of greater power cuts "deeper", that is, they can remove a thicker layer of wood in one pass. Manual electric planers are produced with a power in the range of 0.5 - 2.2 kW. Above one and a half kilowatts - already, in fact, a professional tool for large-scale work. If you plan to use the planer often and in large volumes, it makes sense to look at more powerful models. But, as always, the rule applies: the more powerful the tool, the more it weighs and the higher its price. With a small power planer it will be convenient to work on weight. Medium power models weigh between 2.5-4 kg.

Another indicator is the frequency of rotation of the drum, that is, the number of revolutions that it makes per unit of time. This value is very important to consider when choosing a planer, the user believes. wind1wind: The higher the number of revolutions, the better the quality of the cut. The best option to focus on when choosing is 15000-16000 rpm.

wind1wind:

- The planer does not make an absolutely flat surface, but a “wave” with a very small step. To make this waviness invisible, they increase the number of revolutions of the shaft and the number of knives on the shaft. These two parameters are very important when choosing.

Width planing depends on the width of the cutting edge of the knives. The most "traveling" sizes of knives for household electric planers are 82, 102 and 110 mm. The higher the planing width, the fewer passes will be required to complete the surface.

To simply process the board to smooth surface, enough planer with knives, narrower than the board. But if the width of the knife does not overlap the width of the material being processed, a perfectly flat surface will not work - at least the minimum "step" will remain.

Depth cut is, in fact, the thickness of the layer of wood removed by the planer in one pass. In household planers, it usually does not exceed 2 mm, in more powerful ones - 4 mm. Most models have depth adjustment.

Electric planers use removable blades made of hard alloys and hardened steel. Most of them, even carbide ones, can be sharpened and straightened, but narrow knives cannot be sharpened: their design does not imply sharpening. Certain planer models come with a sharpening tool. You can make it with your own hands.

Olegych:

- To edit knives, you need thicker glass and a couple of sheets of good sandpaper. We soak the paper in water, sculpt it on glass - and go! But this is exclusively for dressing, knives “earned” on nails and bricks - only on the machine.

Sole the planer in contact with the surface to be treated must be even and smooth. At modern models planers, barely noticeable grooves are made on its surface - grooves that prevent the formation of “ air cushion» between the sole and the material, thus ensuring a uniform cut. The grooves on the front of the sole are designed for chamfering the corners of the parts. When choosing a planer, you should pay close attention to the quality of the surface of the sole, especially when it comes to inexpensive models.

– A defect found in non-brand planers is the so-called “drunken sole”. We check this way: we set the adjustment of the removal to zero, the knife is brought to the upper position. We apply a ruler along the length of the planer, alternately from two sides, so that it lies on both platforms at once. There should be no gaps between the ruler and the sole.

When choosing an electric planer, it is important to hold the tool in your hands, to understand whether the tool handles, start and adjustment buttons are conveniently located for you, whether its weight suits you. Modern electric planers have many additional options and parameters that facilitate and improve the work process. But all of them, of course, increase the cost of the instrument. Among the most popular options is a directional chip ejection with the possibility of connecting a bag for collecting it or a vacuum cleaner, the “ soft start» and speed control. It all depends on the requests of the master and his financial capabilities.

A useful accessory is a universal ruler that allows you to evenly process a surface wider than the planing width of the planer in one pass, as well as planing at an angle of 90 degrees to the supporting surface. Often such rulers come with a planer, but if not, it makes sense to purchase it separately.

The basic work performed by an electric planer is easy for a beginner to master, and if you follow simple rules, then the tool will serve for a long time and efficiently. Planing should be started only after the drum of the included planer has fully gained momentum. And you should not immediately set the maximum planing depth: it is better to remove a millimeter twice than to try to remove two millimeters at a time. It is not necessary to put pressure on the tool with effort: it should only be directed, and the plane should be planed by itself, “like clockwork”. And for this, the knives must be sharp.

It is not so easy for craftsmen starting to work with an electric planer to determine when sharpening or replacing a knife is necessary. forum member Nomad advises to use visual methods. If the knives are sharp, the surface is smooth. If they are blunt, rags of wood form on it, since the knives no longer cut, but tear it. Another sign of dull knives is wood that is brown from high temperatures, especially in the area of ​​​​knots.

Aleksej2000:

- Even with blunt knives, the planer begins to vibrate on the knots, as if bouncing small: the knife does not cut and repels from dense material. The best thing is to put new knives in and try how they take. And then the feeling of sharp knives will be familiar. And with the same sharp knives, try to walk along the knot in order to see the difference.

A common problem faced by novice craftsmen is the displacement of the processed material under the planer. Although a planer is one of the safest tools, there is still a risk of injury when holding wood with your hand. The problem is solved by making a simple board retainer and a planer lateral displacement limiter - as advised by a forum user wind1wind:

- Fasten two blocks of length no less than the boards being processed along the width of the sole of the planer on the workbench. The sole of the planer should pass between them with a minimum gap, but without difficulty. A piece of rail is attached to one end, into which the board will rest. Additionally, the board between the blocks can be fixed with a wooden wedge.

For this design to work properly, the end stop of the rail and wedges should be slightly thinner than the planed board, the forum member advises. The blocks should, on the contrary, be thicker than the processed board by about 1/2-2/3 of the thickness of the planer sole. Then they will prevent the lateral displacement of the planer during operation. On the other hand, the planer will not touch the bars with protruding parts of its structure (belt guard, engine).

Members of the forum discuss the features of the choice of electric planers, the advantages and disadvantages of specific models in. you can read the recommendations and get advice about correct work electric planer. Members of the forum exchange experience in replacing, sharpening and straightening knives for planers at. On the repair of planers, milling cutters and circular saws look for information. This video tells about the basics of working with an electric planer.

Hello everybody! Let's talk today about the electric planer. If you use it correctly, then you will ensure both a high quality surface finish and prevent the tool from injuring you. So, in this article we will analyze the question of how to properly use an electric planer.

80 types of electric planers at low prices. Click to see

Sharpening of knives and their installation

In order for the treated surface to be smooth and clean, it is necessary to use an electric planer with well-sharpened and correctly set knives, and it is also necessary to set the correct depth of planing and move it correctly over the surface.

Using a planer with blunt knives is stupid, because, firstly, the surface will turn out to be rough and sloppy, and secondly, the engine receives an excessive load in this case, which will lead to premature wear. Knives can be sharpened, or they can simply be thrown away after blunting, and new ones are put in their place - this applies to thin knives that are now used on most modern electric planers. Non-sharpenable and many sharpened blades have two sharp sides, which allows you to work on the second side after blunting one side. One-sided knives, of course, can no longer be turned over.

Sharpening is best entrusted to specialists in special workshops, which are usually plentiful in cities, since this requires special equipment. However, there are craftsmen who sharpen knives themselves with the help of household sharpeners - the most important thing here is not to let your eyes down in order to see the smallest irregularities, as well as your hands, so as not to make such unnecessary irregularities. But still it is better to contact a special service, since this procedure is inexpensive.

Now about the installation of knives. Working with an electric planer with the blades set incorrectly can be hazardous to health, and it also leads to unpleasant results on the machined surface. They can be attached differently on different models. How to carry out the replacement, it is better to find out in the instructions. The knife after installation should evenly stick out of the drum without distortions. How much it should stick out of the drum can be determined using a ruler. After installation, we set a certain depth of planing, and then apply the ruler to the knife with the end side so that it is parallel to the front sole of the planer. Now you can measure the distance between the front sole and the first ruler with the second ruler. It must match the set cutting depth.

After installing the knives, make sure that they do not touch the body by rotating the drum with your hands. And all work, of course, must be carried out with the plug pulled out of the network.

Surface treatment

When planing, you should follow a number of simple rules that will achieve the best result.

The workpiece to be machined must be securely fastened so that it does not dangle during planing. If you are going to use a planer to process large and heavy beams or boards, then the main thing is that they lie on a fairly flat surface, but you don’t need to fix them somehow, since they are already heavy and will not run away anywhere.

Before applying the planer to the workpiece, it should first be turned on and allowed to gain full speed in the air, and only after that you can begin to remove the chips. It is desirable to drive it along the surface without jerks and stops at a speed of 1.5-2 m per minute. If you work at such a speed, then it is provided best quality processing.

What depth to set depends on how uneven the surface to be treated is. It happens that at sawmills, timber or boards are sawn in such a way that the surface turns out to be waves. It is better to go through such surfaces at first with the maximum planing depth set, and then process it at a lower level. This may require not one pass, but several.

It is necessary to use a planer so that the pressure during planing is carried out evenly over the entire sole. However, when you just bring it to the edge of the work surface, you should press a little harder on the front. And when it reaches the end, you should press harder on the back. This will prevent the formation of blockages along the edges of the board or timber. The pressing force can only be determined empirically.

It happens that when planing, differences between adjacent passes are obtained. It is possible to prevent their appearance, as well as to correct if they nevertheless appeared, only with the acquisition of some experience. If such differences appear, they can be removed by passing a planer with the minimum planing depth set. When doing this, you should work in such a way that strong pressure is not exerted on the tool.

If your device supports the quartering function and you decide to use it, then you should do the following. First, you will need to install the included side stand. This is done according to the instructions different models fastening can be arranged in your own way. Then you should make sure that the side of the board on which you will shoot a quarter is flat and has no drops. If it is uneven, then the side stop passing through it will repeat this unevenness, and the quarter will be taken crookedly.

Remember to apply pressure on the tool both from above and from the side when working on the quartering. Sometimes, forgetting to tighten the planer from the side, it shifts towards the edge, and the quarter is again removed unevenly.

How to use an electric planer safely

When working with a planer, you should follow some safety rules that will protect your body from injury.

Naturally, before work, you need to make sure that the insulation on the current-carrying cord of the electric planer is in good condition. If the wires are exposed or cracked, the wire must be replaced. Do not use a tool with damaged wires.

It was also mentioned above that the inclusion must be made before its sole comes into contact with the workpiece. And only after it picks up full speed, you should bring it to a wooden surface. Also, after releasing the planer power button, you should wait until the drum stops completely, and only then put it down.

A planer connected to the network, but left for a while without work, should be laid on its side so that if it is turned on unintentionally, it cannot move anywhere.

These are the features of using a planer. I hope that the article was useful to you. See you!