How to protect garden hydrangea from diseases and pests? Diseases of hydrangea Diseases of large-leaved hydrangea.

- this is perhaps the biggest problem a gardener can face when growing these extraordinarily beautiful flowers.

They don't happen very often, but they do happen. In addition to diseases that begin with leaf damage and wilting, chic bushes are also plagued by pests, primarily aphids and nematodes.

All diseases of hydrangeas can be divided into main groups, according to their pathogens, these are:

• fungal;
• viral.

There are several reasons that contribute to the occurrence of ailments in flowers in the garden:

• infected planting material;
• improper care;
• high humidity and frequent temperature changes;
• lack of nutrients.

When a paniculate hydrangea bush grows in one place for a long time and it is not regularly fed with special fertilizers, in the end, the soil becomes poorer and the plant begins to feel an acute shortage of nutrients. Then the leaves of the hydrangea begin to turn yellow en masse. This disease is called chlorosis. It affects the bushes when their metabolism is disturbed and they feel a lack of iron. You can distinguish chlorosis from other garden sores by the typical yellowing of the leaves. When the plate becomes bright yellow, and the veins retain their natural dark color. This disease cannot be ignored, since a lack of iron can lead to the fact that the shrub will completely weaken, its leaves will lose their decorative effect and it will not bloom at all. In addition, weak plants are much more susceptible to fungal and viral diseases, which are practically untreatable.

Therefore, in order for paniculate hydrangeas to fully develop and they do not have metabolic disorders, the bushes should be periodically fed with fertilizers with iron preparations.

Also, the development of chlorosis (metabolic disorders) is promoted by watering flowers with cold and not settled water, excessive fertilizing with organic fertilizers and frequent liming of the soil.

But if chlorosis still struck the hydrangea, then you need to immediately start restorative measures and heal the bush. For this, spraying with preparations is carried out:

• agricole;
• chelate;
• antichlorosis;
• ferovite;
• ferrylene;
• Brexil and others.

If the degree of damage is large, then in addition to spraying, fertilizers must also be applied under the root of the hydrangea.

Also, fertilizing with a solution of potassium nitrate (forty grams of the substance to dissolve in ten liters of water) and ferrous sulfate will also help restore metabolism. The treatment regimen is as follows: the plant is watered three times with potassium nitrate, at least five to seven days must pass between waterings, after which the bush is fed with iron sulfate.

The causative fungus can live for a long time in the soil or on other plant debris (last year's leaves, dead wood, etc.) without affecting the plants at all. But under certain favorable conditions for the fungus, it begins to grow and harm the shrub.

This type of disease does not often damage the hydrangea, but even so, some of its types are found. Among them, gardeners most often face:

• white rot;
• gray rot;
• powdery mildew (false and real);
• septoria.

White rot is caused by a fungus that survives well in the soil. First, the roots are affected, they begin to rot, as a result, the plant ceases to receive the right amount of nutrients. Its stems and leaves turn brown, covered with a soft white bloom and begin to rot, over time inside white plaque black spots are noticeable - these are sclerotia. If you do not start treatment in a timely manner, the plant may die.

If white rot is found, the hydrangea should be sprayed with fungicidal preparations, the most effective in this case will be the use of phytosporin.

Gray rot is a dangerous fungal disease of hydrangea. The fungus damages the tissues of the plant, they acquire a soft watery structure. If the weather is dry, then the affected areas dry up and fall off, so holes can be seen on the leaves and stems of the hydrangea. With this disease, the most dangerous rainy weather. In a humid environment, the fungus progresses rapidly, infecting new areas.

All damaged parts of the hydrangea must be removed and burned, and the bush itself should be treated with foundation.

Powdery mildew - there are two types of this disease:

• false or Peronosporosis;
• real.

Peronosporosis or downy mildew also refers to a fungal disease that develops at high humidity and air temperature in the range of eighteen to twenty degrees. Signs of the disease are the appearance of oily spots on the plant, which after a while begin to darken.

At an early stage, false dew can be defeated with a soapy solution in combination with copper sulphate. To do this, fifteen grams of vitriol and one hundred and fifty laundry soap are dissolved in ten liters of water. The prepared agent is sprayed with the affected bushes. If this treatment does not give the desired result, then you should resort to the use of fungicidal preparations.

Powdery mildew is identified by the yellow-green spots that appear on the leaves. Then they turn brown and take on a pronounced shape. The underside of the leaf is covered with a purple or gray bloom. Damaged leaves wither. Also, this fungus also affects young shoots, they lose their shape, begin to curl and dry out. In this case, the soap solution is ineffective. The bush of the affected hydrangea must be treated with special fungicides (Alirin-B, Fitosporin-B, Topaz, Skor, Cumulus, etc.).

Septoria or gray spotting first appears on the leaves of the plant. When examining a leaf plate, you can see brown spots on it, which are lighter in the middle and framed by a dark outline. With further progression, the disease also affects the stems, young shoots are especially susceptible to infection. If appropriate measures are not taken, then the spots can completely capture the leaf, then it dies off, but in general, diseased plant may not survive the winter cold. Therefore, septoria must be treated in a timely manner. You can apply the treatment of bushes with copper sulfate and copper oxychloride.

There are other fungal diseases of panicled hydrangeas. All of them arise as a result of creating favorable conditions for the development of pathogens that can live in the soil for a long time without harming the plant.

Treatment of fungal diseases does not always give a positive result, especially if the disease was detected at a late stage. Therefore, it is recommended to carry out preventive measures. One of which is the seasonal spraying of bushes with fungicides and Bordeaux mixture. Preventive treatments are carried out in the fall and in early spring.

Viral diseases are extremely dangerous. They can be brought into the garden by infected planting material, insect pests or garden tools without treatment (when pruning hydrangeas, when there may have been contact with a diseased plant before).

Most often, hydrangea is affected by the ring spot virus. External signs of the disease are manifested in the formation of spots on the leaves, which are necrotic in nature. Then the leaves wrinkle and die. Ring spot prevents flowering, buds may not form at all, or the flowers will be small and inconspicuous.

Ring spot is not treatable. An infected bush will certainly die. But in order to prevent the spread of the disease to other plants, you should not wait for the death of the shrub, it must be uprooted and burned.

Shrub pests and how to deal with them

Unlike diseases with pests, the gardener has to fight almost every year. The following types cause a lot of trouble:

• snails;
• spider mite;
• gall nematode.

Snails are dangerous because they eat buds, young shoots and leaves. Most often they appear where there is moisture and shade. A large concentration of snails can be found in early spring, as they overwinter well under cover along with hydrangea.

There are two ways to protect the plant: by regularly collecting pests by hand, or by placing small containers with special preparations around the hydrangea bushes that repel snails and destroy them.

You can detect a spider mite by a marble pattern on leaves with spider webs and breams. If the pest is not destroyed, then the leaves will eventually turn yellow and fall off.

Ticks must be controlled with insecticides.

Aphids also pose a huge danger. It completely covers the lower part of the leaf and the stems of the plant. It feeds on its juices, thereby taking it away vitality and also carries viruses. You can fight aphids with soapy water or special preparations such as Akarin, Tanrek, Commander and others.

Gall nematodes are considered very dangerous pests of hydrangea. They are in the ground and damage the roots. Therefore, their appearance goes unnoticed for a long time. Gardeners learn about their presence only when the hydrangea bushes, for no apparent reason, begin to fade. And this happens as a result of the fact that the nematodes in the roots make many moves that swell and begin to rot. This leads to the death of the root system, and hence the lack of nutrients for the bush.

If you suspect the appearance of nematodes, it is necessary to treat the soil with special preparations, and also, for the purpose of prevention, treat the roots of seedlings with copper sulphate before planting.

Preventive measures

In order for the panicled hydrangea to please the gardener, and not cause him trouble, you must strictly adhere to the recommendations for caring for her and regularly carry out preventive measures, including:

• treatment of seedlings before planting with copper sulphate;
• introduction of preparations against root-knot nematodes into the planting pits;
• seasonal treatments of bushes with Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride, copper sulphate or other fungicidal preparations;
• timely cleansing of areas where hydrangea grows from weeds and dry leaves.

The above measures will help grow a chic garden in the garden. flowering bush hydrangeas, protect it from diseases and many garden pests.

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Sofia Filatova 09/26/2014 | 4933

Growing hydrangea in open field, you need to be prepared for the fact that the plant is susceptible to diseases and can be damaged by pests. However, if you know how to deal with these troubles, big problems can be avoided.

Hydrangea diseases

downy mildew

The most common flower disease is downy mildew. Yellowish "oily" spots appear on the leaves. As the disease progresses, they change their color, gradually darkening and becoming quite large. The lower part of the leaves is covered with a yellow bloom.

The cause of this disease is either too wet soil on which the flower grows, or adverse weather conditions, which are characterized by high humidity. Even if almost the entire plant has undergone a disease, it can be saved.

One of the methods for combating downy mildew is the treatment of a flower with the so-called copper soapy liquid. Solution preparation method: dilute 15 g in 10 liters of water blue vitriol and 150 g of crushed green soap. This solution is absolutely harmless to the plant, so the treatment can be carried out 1-2 times a week for prevention purposes. You can treat the plant with fungicides that can destroy this disease.

Chlorosis

Another common hydrangea disease is chlorosis. The main symptom of the disease is a sharp lightening of the leaves. In this case, the veins remain dark in color. The disease can provoke too a large number of lime in the soil or an excess of humus, which is used as fertilizer.

At the first signs of the disease, the plant must be treated within 3 weeks. potassium nitrate solution: 40 g diluted in 10 liters of water. After this course of treatment for several days, the plant should be treated with a solution of iron sulfate in the same concentration.

Gray rot

Gray rot is another disease that can cause the death of hydrangeas. Rot affects the entire plant: leaves, stem, buds and even flower stalks. Signs of the disease are the appearance of wet spots with a gray coating, which grow to a fairly large size. When these spots appear, you must immediately take measures to combat the disease.

An important condition for preventing disease is destruction of diseased leaves. If the rot has not spread to the entire plant, it should be treated Bordeauxliquid. If the spots have spread to the stem, the plant must be dug up and destroyed.

Hydrangea pests

spider mite

One of the main pests of hydrangea is the spider mite. It can be found when examining the bottom of the sheet. characteristic feature the presence of this pest is a brown cobweb. Affected leaves turn yellow and then become marbled. Over time, the leaves begin to dry out and fall off.

Favorable conditions for the development of spider mites are high humidity and high temperature. Under such conditions, it can give up to 15 generations in a year. Having found a pest, the plant must be sprayed Thiophos, diluting 7 g of the substance in 10 liters of water.

leaf aphid

Plants that are planted indoors are prone to leaf aphids. To prevent the appearance of this pest should be applied anabazine sulfate solution(20 g dissolved in 10 liters of water). Plant processing must be carried out 2 times per season: at the beginning and in the middle of summer.

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Soil cultivation Yeast as fertilizer for flowers

With fertilizers, you can grow even the most exotic flowers in the garden, and even achieve lush flowering in those that are familiar ...

This decorative culture has taken its place in our gardens so firmly that it sometimes seems as if it has always grown there, even in our distant childhood. Still, the greenery of the leaves, and the caps of flowers all summer until late-late autumn.

And no thorns that peel off the hands.

But she also has problems.

DISEASES OF HYDRANIA

Tracheomycosis wilt (photo 1) caused by fungi - soil pathogens that persist for many years on plant debris. In the presence of a soil infection, the roots of plants are first affected, which turn brown and rot. Then the mycelium penetrates the conducting vascular system and fills it with its biological mass. The influx of nutrients stops, and plants, starting from the upper young shoots, wither, turn yellow, gradually turn brown and dry. Browning of leaf veins is observed on many leaves of adult plants. On sections of cuttings and roots, a mycelium plaque develops.

With fusarium, the mycelium is pinkish-white, with verticillium - grayish, more airy. Very often, the infection is spread precisely by rooted cuttings taken from infected plants.

White sclerocial rot (photo 2)- a fungal disease, the causative agent of which persists in the soil in plant debris in the form of sclerotia. First, the roots rot, the flow of nutrients stops, the plant stops growing, turns brown and dries up. When young plants are affected, the growing shoots and leaves turn brown, rot and become covered with a dense white cotton-like coating, in which large black sclerotia eventually form. irregular shape with a lighter interior.

Gray rot (photo 3), one might say, a fashionable disease for this culture. The causative agent is a soil pathogen that at the same time infects most of the plants in our garden, it persists as black, but smaller sclerotia.

Brown, depressed, rapidly growing spots appear on the stems, brown spots on the leaves, zonal, without bordering. In dry weather, the dead tissue of the spots cracks and falls out, leaving holes.

With an abundance of precipitation, all parts of plants affected by gray rot are covered with smoky-gray fluffy mycelium, the spores of which re-infect neighboring leaves and petals. In the mycelium, small black fruiting bodies, sclerotia, form over time.

Ordinary, or European, cancer (photo 4, 5) spread to last years it is with imported planting material, and it affects almost all deciduous trees and shrubs.

Elongated brown spots appear on the bark, the bark dries up, cracks, and a brown ulcer gap opens under it with edges raised due to the influx of callus. The ulcer deepens over time, the wood dies, and the stems dry out. Often manifested by browning and drying of side shoots during the growing season.

The infection persists in the affected wood. More often cancer manifests itself in a weakened planting material in places of frost and mechanical damage and with dense landings.

Tubercular necrosis of the cortex (photo 6) causes death (necrosis) of the bark and is common on many deciduous trees and shrubs. During the growing season, there is a sharp browning and drying of the shoots with leaves. Numerous brick-red sporulation pads up to 2 mm in diameter are formed on the bark of dried stems; over time, they darken and dry out. The infection persists in the affected stems.

Powdery mildew (photo 7) manifests itself on young leaves with separate spots of a grayish cobwebby-powdery coating. Over time, the spots grow, the plaque darkens and even erases. But the affected tissue of the leaf blade becomes reddish-brown and dries up in the form of large brown spots. The leaves dry up prematurely and fall off. On some varieties of hydrangea susceptible to powdery mildew, young growing shoots are severely affected. First, small spots of grayish plaque appear, which quickly disappear, but the bark becomes necrotic, covered with reddish spots, the shoots are deformed, overwinter poorly and freeze.

Several spots appear on the leaves of bushes from mid-summer.

At ascochitosis spotting (photo 8) the spots on the leaves are rounded, often irregular in shape, proliferating, yellowish-brick with a thin brown border. Convex small brown fruiting bodies of the overwintering stage of the fungus are formed in the necrotic tissue. Leaves turn yellow and fall prematurely.

Phyllostic blotch (photo 9) manifests itself in the form of merging dark red or black spots, the center of which brightens to a grayish-brown color, but a wide purple-brown border remains. On the upper side of the necrotic tissue, sporulation develops in the form of black pads.

Septoria spotting (photo 10) manifested by numerous, rounded, scattered spots of dark brown color. The necrotic tissue in the center brightens, but a thin brown rim always remains. Over time, small black fruiting bodies of the overwintering stage of the pathogen fungus form in the necrotic tissue. With a strong spread of the disease, spots can appear on petioles and young stems. Depending on the variety, lazy or rather large single ones. The infection persists in the affected plant debris. The defeat of the leaves reduces the overall decorative effect and worsens the ripening of shoots that overwinter worse.

These spots were of a mushroom nature, and this, believe me, is not the worst option, there is much worse - ring spot (photo 11) caused by the hydrangea ring spot virus. Young leaves show light punctate necrosis, light round spots, often blurry. There may be slight deformation of the leaf blade and an asymmetric shape with irregular venation. With a strong lesion, flowering is weak, the flowers are underdeveloped, small.

PESTS OF HYDENSIA

There are quite a lot of pests on hydrangeas, and almost all of them are polyphagous, that is, they are common in the garden on many plants. A lot is found in thickened plantings of gastropod mollusk bushes with a spirally twisted shell - snails (1). More often it is a large grape snail and a smaller ordinary amber. They live in moist, shady places and feed on leaves, green shoots, and buds.

Of the small sucking pests on hydrangeas, greenhouse tripe, spider mites, aphids (greenhouse, pelargonium, bean) are common. All of them feed on the sap of plant tissues and, in large numbers, cause yellowing and premature leaf fall. Larger sucking pests constantly feed on young leaves - slobbering penny (2) and bedbugs and their larvae. Berry bug, green tree bug and meadow bug are more common.

Of the leaf-eating pests, the brilliant fawn leaf beetle (3), the nettle leaf weevil (4), which eat holes in the leaves, are common. Leafworm caterpillars (5) roll the apical leaves into a ball, feed and pupate inside. There are also injuries in the form of rough eating of leaves, which are left by caterpillars of night butterflies - a scoop. Large beautiful beetles are constantly found on hydrangea inflorescences - golden bronze and hairy deer. They gnaw stamens and pistils at flowers, but their larvae, which develop in the soil and feed on small plant roots, cause the greatest harm. The more of these beetles in your garden, the more larvae gnaw on the roots of plants. The harmless-looking marsh weevil mosquito (6) also sits in the shade of the leaves for a reason. Long-legged mosquito larvae also feed on small plant roots. Quite often found on hydrangea bushes and earwigs (7). Adult beetle gnaws like petals flowering plants and young leaves. The pests are quite different, but they do not cause much harm, since they are most often found singly.

Gall nematode (8) - microscopic worms that live in the tissues of plant roots, forming numerous rounded brown swellings - galls. Over time, the galls rot and dry out, and the affected roots die off. The influx of nutrients to the vegetative parts stops, due to which there is a sharp delay in the growth and development of plants. Young bushes, which quickly die off, are most damaged.

All problems associated with the loss of decorativeness and the death of plants are most often associated with weakened specimens.

Therefore, it is worth once again recalling the common truth: it is necessary to use healthy, zoned material, comply with all requirements of agricultural technology, timely phytosanitary cleaning with the removal of dried branches and bushes, annual spring spraying of bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (HOM, Abiga-Peak ). This will solve problems with cancer, bark necrosis, leaf spots.

Hydrangeas are incredibly beautiful shrubs. For a wide variety of inflorescence forms, abundant flowering, a wide palette of colors, large curly leaves, as well as the unpretentiousness of hydrangeas are valued in ornamental gardening. Hydrangeas are especially spectacular in the fall, because it was then that on this amazing plant at the same time, you can see seed heads, buds and leaves of various color shades.

Hydrangea belongs to the hydrangea family, this family is quite extensive and includes about 100 plant species. In nature, there are a huge number of varieties of hydrangeas: deciduous and evergreen, upright and curly, dwarf and tree-like, as well as frost-resistant and heat-loving. The natural range of hydrangea is the Himalayas, Northern and South America, Central and East Asia. The name "hydrangea" comes from the combination of the Greek words hydor (water) and angos (vessel, receptacle) and was given to the plant for the shape of its seed pods.

Did you know? Also, the epithet "French" is often added to the name "hydrangea". This is due to the fact that the Western world learned about this plant after the first French expedition around the world.

One of the features of hydrangea is its natural resistance to various diseases. The bushes of this plant are still affected from time to time. different kind diseases. Also, pests attack the plant: aphids, spider mites, slugs.

Hydrangea, its diseases and pests - this is what should be given priority to both an experienced gardener and a novice amateur florist.

Snails just love hydrangeas. Often the plant is attacked by a grape snail, or an ordinary amber. Most of all they prefer damp, shady or thickened landing sites. Pests, falling on the hydrangea, eat the buds, after which they switch to the leaves and young shoots. Snails are a great danger to plants that overwinter under cover. These pests penetrate the soil surrounding the bush, and after the onset of spring and the rise in temperature, they get to the surface and eat the first buds and leaves. Sometimes you can find whole clutches of snails near the hydrangea bushes.

Snails on hydrangeas - what to do and how to get rid of them? To do this, resort to the usual mechanical destruction of these pests and the clutches they leave. You need to do this during the spring and summer period.

Important! Metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" is also used to kill snails. They are poisonous preparations, and therefore refrain from placing them directly on the surface of the earth, as they clog the soil, and when mixed with the soil, they simply cease to work. Pour such chemicals into small cups and arrange them horizontally around the hydrangea bush.

How to deal with spider mites

Have you noticed that on the back side of the hydrangea leaf is covered with small spots yellow color, which after a while merge into a whole marble pattern? Be sure - the spider mite has chosen the hydrangea. The leaves affected by its vital activity dry out, and then fall off. In order to finally make sure what happened to the hydrangea, arm yourself with a magnifying glass and carefully examine the leaf with reverse side. Spider mites live in this place. Recognizing them is quite simple: they are small insects with a body length of only 1 - 2 mm, having a milky transparent, red, yellow-green or orange color.

To eliminate the spider mite, tools such as Fufan (diluted in a proportion of 5 ml per 5 liters of water) are suitable. Two sprays of the resulting solution will be enough to kill the mites. Tiophos, which is a fairly strong insecticide, will also do well with this.

Did you know? You can independently control the color of the hydrangea, for this it is enough to regulate the level of acidity and alkalinity of the soil.

You can get rid of aphids with the help of a safe and a simple remedy- just water the plant with a powerful pressure of water. Do not overdo it so as not to damage the hydrangea itself. Since aphids do not attach very well to hydrangeas, a simple stream of water knocks them off the leaves. But the places of greatest accumulation of pests should still be treated with an insecticidal agent.

What to do if worms appear on the roots of hydrangeas

Hydrangea roots can be infested with microscopic worms called root-knot nematodes. Their vital activity leads to the appearance of brown, rounded swellings on the roots of hydrangeas. Such formations are called galls. Does hydrangea rot? Be sure - this is a consequence of the activity of worms.

The galls can rot and dry out, leading to the death of the roots. This will cause the plant to not receive nutrients and simply die. Often these pests affect young hydrangea bushes.

Important! Hydrangeas with signs of gall nematodes cannot be cured, they must be dug up and burned.

Leaf beetle control methods

Leaf beetles are a type of pest that damages all parts of the plant. This insect got its name because of its peculiarity - to gnaw out whole holes in hydrangea leaves. Leaf beetle larvae eat the whole leaves of the plant, leaving only veins from them. The stems can also suffer from this pest, which gnaws them right from the inside. Some leaf beetle larvae live in the soil, where they damage the roots of hydrangeas.

How to deal with hydrangea pests? To combat the leaf beetle, one should resort to complex methods, including:

• Manual collection of both adults and their larvae;
• Pruning damaged parts of the plant and their subsequent burning;
• Digging the soil around the hydrangea at the first frost in order to destroy the wintering larvae;

Treatment of hydrangea bushes with a variety of insecticidal agents. How to protect hydrangea from slugs

What hydrangea pests are most common on garden plot? Often in conditions of high humidity and moderate temperatures, the hydrangea is exposed to slugs. Their main places of residence are dense seedlings. Eating leaves, slugs cause great harm to hydrangeas.

Fortunately for gardeners, hydrangea diseases are not very common. However, yellowing of hydrangea leaves, aphids, fungal and viral diseases sometimes affect this luxurious plant. How to prevent hydrangea diseases and how to organize the correct treatment of hydrangeas, if the trouble has climbed onto your site, we will talk in today's article.

It’s worth saying right away that the lion’s share of hydrangea diseases is transferred through seedlings. Therefore, you should buy hydrangea seedlings only in reliable nurseries, and when propagating hydrangeas with cuttings, be sure that the parent plant is healthy. Most often, hydrangea diseases occur when high humidity air, especially with a strong density of plantings.

Another group of hydrangea diseases occurs due to a lack of certain substances, first of all it is chlorosis, which manifests itself as yellowing of hydrangea leaves. Let's start our review with it.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis

Hydrangea chlorosis occurs due to metabolic disorders in the plant. It is experiencing iron deficiency, as a result of which the leaves of hydrangeas turn yellow, brighten, and the veins on the leaves remain dark. If you try to ignore this disease of hydrangeas, over time the plant will weaken and lose its beauty. To prevent chlorosis of hydrangeas, they are fertilized with iron-containing preparations according to the instructions. You should also avoid watering hydrangeas with tap water; for these purposes, it is better to take softer, rainwater. Most often, the leaves of hydrangeas growing on soils rich in lime and overfed with humus turn yellow. But what if the leaves of hydrangeas have already turned yellow?

For a faster recovery of the bush, it is recommended spraying hydrangeas preparations Agricol, iron chelate, antichlorosis, ferovit, ferrilen, micro Fe, brexil. In particular advanced cases chlorosis of hydrangeas, these drugs should be applied under the root.

Another option - treatment of hydrangea from chlorosis with a solution of potassium nitrate(40 grams of potassium nitrate per bucket of water) and iron sulfate(iron vitriol) in the same concentration. After 2-3 waterings with saltpeter, wait three days and pour over with a solution of ferrous sulfate.

Fungal diseases of hydrangeas

Do not be alarmed - in fact, hydrangeas are rarely affected by fungal diseases. But it is better to be prepared for unpleasant surprises. Universal remedy for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, treatment with copper oxychloride (HOM) is the most suitable for hydrangeas.

White rot of hydrangeas

White rot of hydrangeas

It's mushroom hydrangea disease begins with root rot. As a result, the plant does not receive nutrients, it turns brown and dies. If the disease affects young hydrangeas, the growing shoots and leaves darken, begin to rot and become covered with “cotton wool” - a soft white bloom. Over time, black blotches appear in the “cotton wool” - sclerotia. The causative agent of the disease remains in the soil, getting there with plant debris.

Hydrangea white rot treatment: for fungal diseases of hydrangeas, phytosporin showed high efficiency. Other fungicides may also be used.

Gray mold of hydrangeas

Gray mold of hydrangeas

Another dangerous disease of hydrangeas, in which the tissues of the plant become watery, soft. In dry weather, the dead tissue dries up, falls out, and holes remain in the leaves and on the stem. In wet weather, the fungus spreads very quickly, all infected areas are covered with "gray wool". Gray rot is difficult to exterminate, since this disease is characteristic of almost all garden plants.

Treatment of gray mold of hydrangeas : dead parts of hydrangeas must be removed. The results are obtained by processing hydrangeas with Chistotsvet, Skorom, Fundazol.

Downy mildew of hydrangeas (downy mildew)

This hydrangea disease manifests itself in the form of oily, over time and darkening spots on the stems and leaves. Fungal disease actively develops at high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 degrees.

Treatment of downy mildew of plants : the plant is treated with a solution of soapy water and copper sulfate (15 grams of vitriol and 150 grams of soap per bucket of water). This hydrangea treatment will help on early stages diseases. You can treat hydrangea with fungicides.

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

Powdery mildew of hydrangeas

This fungal disease of hydrangeas is characterized by the presence of yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually turn brown and take on clear forms. At the same time, a purple or grayish coating is visible on the lower part of the sheet. Over time, the affected leaves fall off. Young shoots are especially affected by this fungus, they are deformed and, as a rule, do not survive wintering.

Powdery mildew treatment : hydrangea is sprayed with fungicides - Alirin-B, Fitosporin-M. If the hydrangea disease has severely affected the plant, Chistotsvet, Thiovit Jet, Topaz, Skor, Strobi, Cumulus can be used.

Septoria hydrangeas (septoria blotch of hydrangeas)

Septoria hydrangeas

Such a disease of hydrangeas as septoria manifests itself in the form of brown spots of a rounded irregular shape, with a light center and a dark rim. Hydrangea septoria affects leaves, but in neglected plants it spreads to young stems and petioles. Over time, the spots merge, the leaves die off. Hydrangea disease septoria reduces the ability of hydrangeas to hibernate.

Treatment of septoria hydrangeas: treatment with copper-containing preparations - copper sulfate, copper oxychloride, etc.

Among other common fungal diseases of hydrangeas - common cancer, tracheomycosis wilt, cortical necrosis, phyllostic and ascochitous spotting. In general, the treatment of hydrangeas for fungal diseases is carried out with fungicides. But fungal diseases- not the worst thing that can happen to hydrangea.

Viral diseases of hydrangeas

Hydrangea ring spot

The most frequently occurring Hydrangea ring spot is a viral disease of hydrangeas. Initially, blurry spots of necrosis in the form of rings appear on the leaves of hydrangeas, the leaves begin to wrinkle, become asymmetric. With a strong defeat by the ring spot, the plant cannot lay buds, or the flowers turn out to be small, weak.

Hydrangea ring spot treatment. Unfortunately, this viral disease of hydrangeas cannot be treated. You need to carefully monitor the quality of seedlings.

Hydrangea pests

Snails on hydrangeas

Snails love hydrangeas. Most often it is an ordinary amber or a grape snail. They especially like moist shady thickened plantings. Snails on hydrangeas eat buds, young shoots and leaves. Snails pose a great danger to hydrangeas wintering under shelter: mollusks burrow into the soil around the bush, and as soon as the temperature rises in spring, they get out of the ground and feed on the first buds and leaves. Near the hydrangea bush, you can see the clutches of snails.

How to get rid of snails on hydrangeas: in addition to the mechanical destruction of these mollusks and their clutches in spring and summer, metaldehyde or "Thunderstorm" can be used. These poisonous preparations should not be placed directly on the ground - they clog the soil, and cease to act, mixing with the soil. Chemicals are poured into cups and laid out in a horizontal position around the bush.

Spider mite on hydrangea

Spider mite on hydrangea

If you notice that small yellow spots have appeared on the back of the hydrangea leaf, eventually merging into a marble pattern - this is the spider mite on the hydrangea. Over time, the affected leaf dries out and falls off. If these hydrangea pests have thoroughly populated the bush, you can see cobwebs with mites (with a small lesion, the spider mite is not visible to the naked eye), necrosis appears.

Treatment of hydrangea from Putin's mite: apply insectoacaracids and acaracids - thiophos, preparations Lightning, Akarin, Fitoverm, Vermitek. With a weak defeat of hydrangea spider mite treatment with mineral oil or soap may help.

Aphids on hydrangeas

Settling on hydrangeas, the aphid sucks the juice from the plant, simultaneously polluting it with sugary secretions. They, in turn, serve as food for soot fungi. Aphids on hydrangeas are also dangerous because they can carry viruses. Aphids settle on the lower part of the leaf, with a strong lesion, the hydrangea may turn yellow, and the leaves will fall off.

Treatment of hydrangeas from aphids: with a weak lesion, you can try to simply wash off the pests of hydrangeas with soapy water. Insecticides - Tobacco dust, Spark, Bison, Antilin, Fitoverm, Aktara, Akarin, Tanrek, Commander and other means - are used for large-scale aphids.

Gall nematode on hydrangea

This pest lives on the roots of hydrangeas. Microscopic worms - gall nematodes - form brown round swellings on the root, called galls. The galls rot, the roots die off, the hydrangeas do not receive nutrients. Most often, this pest of hydrangeas affects young bushes.

There are a lot of insects that can harm hydrangeas: bugs, pennitsy, leaf-eating pests (weevils, leaf beetle, caterpillars, scoops, deer, bronzovki, earwigs). However, for a healthy, strong plant and a caring owner, these pests are not particularly scary.

Hydrangea diseases: prevention

Do not consider it banal, but we recall: prevention - the best treatment. Diseases of hydrangeas can be severely damaged if the bush is weak, and a healthy plant will endure the disease with firmness.

What can weaken a plant, making it easy prey for fungi, viruses, and pests?

-sunshine and insufficient watering. If the air temperature exceeds 30 degrees, the inflorescences and leaves of the hydrangea begin to fade. Therefore, hydrangea loves partial shade. In such heat, you need to water the plant at least every other day. By the way, it has been noticed that varieties of hydrangeas with a bright blue color are less prone to withering.

- improper feeding, unsuitable soil. We wrote more about this in the article. Here we only mention that hydrangea does not like heavy soils. At the beginning of summer, a stake is made on nitrogenous fertilizers, in summer - on potash-phosphorus, in autumn - on phosphorus.

-wood treatment with chemicals for prevention. The standard option is hydrangea processing (100 grams per bucket of water). It is used before the growing season, in the spring, because copper sulfate burns the leaves. Perfectly disinfects the earth. You can also use a mixture of lime and copper sulfate - Bordeaux mixture, this solution is suitable for fighting fungi. An excellent alternative to Bordeaux liquid - oxychom (HOM, copper oxychloride), Topaz, Fitosporin, Spark and many other drugs. Modern drugs are generally less harmful to environment than their predecessors - pay attention to this.

We hope our article will help overcome hydrangea diseases, or warn them. Although a lot will depend on the variety of hydrangeas - some new varieties have a rather low immunity to fungi. You can read more about, as well as about and about the right one in our separate articles.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board of the Sobcorrespondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-industrial bulletin"