How to disassemble an aluminum heating radiator with your own hands. How to remove a heating battery in a multi-storey new building yourself

12.06.2019

At first glance, this issue is relevant only during the heating season, and in the summer there may not be water in the heating system. However, in new buildings there is water in the heating system even in summer. Still hidden gasket pipes and if something is wrong, it is better to find out about it in the summer during repairs than in winter, when it is -30 ° C outside the window, and expensive Spanish tiles have already been laid on the floor.

Now in high-rise new buildings, as a rule, horizontal heating is carried out - supply pipes hot water and the return pipes are laid under the screed (as well as the wiring) and only near the battery itself the pipes come out of the floor. Thus, you have not only conventional water heating batteries, but also partially heated floors. Very comfortable and very well thought out. At the same time, there are no pipes along the walls near the windows, which is mandatory for vertical wiring and is an eyesore for almost any housewife. That's only if the pipes in the floor are defective or the docking is of poor quality, then the screed will have to be broken and the malfunction fixed (however, this moment of repair has nothing to do with the topic of this article).

In addition, horizontal heating distribution allows you to install heat meters for each apartment, which, if modern prices for energy carriers is very relevant and practically eliminates quarrels between neighbors in the riser due to the settings of the heat meter for vertical heating distribution (do not adjust how the valve is - one will be cold, the other hot).

Heat meters are installed in the distribution unit on each floor. And besides the meters, taps are also installed there, allowing you to easily and quickly shut off the supply of hot water and return flow (or just taps, if the apartments are not equipped with heat meters).

But the fact is that in multi-storey new buildings, when there are 10-20 apartments on the floor, and most of the apartment owners are still engaged in high-profile repairs, and not quiet living, getting access to the distribution hub is a problem. Until the repairs are completed and not all tenants have moved in, there is only one key to the floor distribution unit, and it is usually kept by a plumber - a representative of the developer.

In principle, calling this plumber is not a problem. But he doesn’t come to work every day, and besides, he is very busy, and the plumber’s working day is relatively short (this is only for people trying to finish repairs as soon as possible in new apartment, it seems that it is normal to remove or install radiators at 10 pm on Sunday). But in any case, the services of this key plumber are usually not free (and if they are free, then there is no point in reading this article further, because the plumber will come and do everything for free).

For removing one battery, the plumber from the developer will take a couple of dollars, and then the same amount for connecting each battery. Thus, for removing and installing batteries in three-room apartment plumbing from the developer will have to pay $ 15-30. An outside plumber may charge even more, given possible transportation costs.

In general, plumbers do not like petty work - spending half the working day standing in traffic jams, then in 5 minutes to earn $ 10-15 - there are few who want to, therefore, for replacing a penny gasket in an old cheap faucet and for cleaning the siphon and for installing a new expensive toilet bowl (and this is at least drilling holes for attaching the bowl to the floor, attaching the toilet bowl to the floor, installing a tank, connecting to the existing water supply and sewerage system, adjusting the inlet and drain fittings) you have to pay $ 20-30 each. Plumbers show much more interest in larger orders, such as plumbing and sewerage in an apartment, when you need to pay $ 200-500 for work. Such work is carried out in 1-2 days, so you can stand in traffic jams.

But even if you remove and install the batteries yourself, or an outside plumber does it, it’s all the same for turning off the water and return on the floor (if the batteries are not equipped with taps), the plumber will take the same $ 2-3, and then the same amount for turning on the water supply.

If it happens in winter, then you have to remove and install each battery several times, since plastering, puttying and wallpapering are not done in 2 hours. And heating a renovated room with electric heaters can be even more expensive than calling a plumber every time. As a result, payment is relatively complex work removing and installing batteries in a three-room apartment can cost $ 50-100.

Meanwhile, it is possible to save on these relatively small, but still unplanned expenses, if taps are installed on each battery, and they are usually installed with hidden horizontal wiring. You can do this quite simply and quickly, at any time convenient for you, even at 3 am, besides, almost free of charge, this will require a couple of keys, a minute of time, and of course, knowledge of how to do it.

Almost free because if I just tell in this article how you can do it yourself, then some plumbers will lose part of their already modest income. In particular, this will happen to one of my old plumber acquaintances, with whom I often meet to drink a glass of beer and chat about life. However, he mainly speaks, complaining about the unfair arrangement of life and the recent drop in income. It was he who told me this story with batteries.

In this regard, I decided to make this information paid. The fee is small - $ 1.5 in local equivalent (100 rubles or 50 hryvnias). As practice shows, there are few who want to pay money for information. Many people think that any information can be obtained for free. And even for information that allows you to save more than one hundred, and sometimes even a thousand dollars, not everyone is ready to pay $ 10, not to mention larger amounts. Therefore, if in a month I earn a couple of mugs of beer for my friend, then this will be good, and he will not even notice a possible decrease in customers by 1 person per year.

If you still want to know how to remove the radiators yourself without the help of a plumber, then just transfer the indicated amount to my wallet using the form at the bottom of the page. Don't forget to include your e-mail. You will receive a letter with a description of the procedure, including photos and a short video (in order to remove or install a heating battery - one minute is enough when all necessary tools at hand).

If you transfer money from a phone, to a card or in another way that does not allow you to specify your e-mail, then be sure to report it in the comments to this article, and indicate your e-mail in the appropriate field when adding a comment. I will definitely contact you.

There are situations when you need to independently dismantle heating radiators. It does not matter what material they are made of - aluminum, cast iron or are bimetallic. Any radiator model can be detached from the system.

To figure out how to remove the heating battery in an apartment, you need to get acquainted with the main methods of attaching these devices.

When are batteries removed?

More often than others, it is necessary to dismantle a cast-iron heating radiator, which has already served its time. But sometimes you have to decide how to remove bimetal radiator. Modern heating appliances are the easiest to dismantle.

Work on dismantling the heating radiator may be necessary under the following circumstances:

When cast iron batteries leak between sections. At the same time, the distance from the eyeliner is small, there are many sections. It can be impossible to reach the nipples that are located on the side of the blind plugs with a conventional radiator key. Therefore, you have to remove the device from the side of the eyeliner. To make the dismantling urgent, you need to know in advance how to properly remove the heating battery.
If leaks form in the places of the drive on the supply to the battery. To change the drive (it doesn’t matter if it’s threaded or welded), the device must be dismantled.
Sometimes it becomes necessary to replace the radiator with another device with more favorable power characteristics or a more modern design.

Radiators also need to be removed for maintenance work to remove scale inside. Sometimes this is done by annealing. After this procedure, the intersection gaskets must be replaced.
When repairing an apartment for gluing or painting the wall behind the radiator, it must be removed. It is not recommended to glue wallpaper near radiators during the heating season, they will not stick, so you need to take care of this in advance.
There are other cases: for example, it was decided to convert a one-pipe system to a two-pipe system. Radiators must be dismantled carefully in order to be reused. Aluminum appliances require special care.

Before installing a modern radiator, you need to figure out how to remove old battery heating. Cast iron radiators, although durable, are difficult to remove, if only because they are very heavy. To figure out how to remove a cast-iron radiator, you need to understand the connection methods.

Various dismantling methods

Methods for dismantling heating radiators primarily depend on which fasteners are used and how they are located relative to the radiator.

The options may be:

fitting connection;
with the help of gongs.

Fittings and spurs are also different.

Usually, Soviet-style cast iron batteries were fastened with a bunch of squeegee and locknuts. Modern radiators are fixed with the help of American women. The American is a collapsible fitting with a union nut.

The battery leads may be located in different ways. The connection can be one-way or two-way. Why is it so important to find out before unscrewing the heating battery? If the installation is carried out on the spurs, then one of the feed-through plugs on the radiator will be with a left-hand thread.

Sometimes in high-rise buildings built at the end of the last century there are convectors that are connected to the supply pipes by a weld.

Turning off the heating and draining the water from the heating radiator

The first step in dismantling the radiator is to disconnect heating system and coolant drain. And it doesn’t matter if the problem is solved, how to remove a cast iron or aluminum battery: the algorithm of actions is the same.

At individual heating everything is simple. The heating unit is turned off and water is drained from the system. This is done in different ways, the method depends on which boiler and what opportunities for draining the coolant are peeped.

But most often you need to understand how to remove an old cast-iron battery clogged with scale in an apartment. With central heating, the most not tricky way is to shut off the coolant with the help of shutoff valves.

After that, you can start working with connections. Be sure to substitute the container under the drain of water from the radiator. This method is suitable when a jumper is mounted between the supply and return pipes. If not, then the circulation of the coolant will stop throughout the riser. And this means that the neighbors will have cold radiators.

Miscellaneous schemes

There are fundamentally different schemes for filling the coolant. With the upper filling method, it is provided for the delivery of the supply to the attic of the house. With this system, the risers will be independent and they are turned off in the basement and in the attic. At the bottom bottling, the distributing pipes for supply and return are located in the basement technical floor. You will have to disconnect the supply and return risers.

The type of wiring is determined as follows: when in the basement along the perimeter of the building there are horizontally located two pipes, closed heat-insulating material bottling the bottom diagram. If there is only one pipe - the upper one.

You need to find a riser that goes to the apartment, while you can navigate along the flights of stairs between the entrance and the platform of the 1st floor, and in the attic - through the windows.

Top filling type

If the building has an upper filling method, proceed as follows:

block the valve, which is located in the attic (do not unscrew the plugs);
block the shut-off valves in the technical floor;
then you need to unscrew the plug a couple of turns and wait until the pressure of the coolant jet drops; now you can completely unscrew the plug.

The water that remains in the pipe will pour out when the radiator is disconnected.

Bottom filling method

If the building has a lower filling method, proceed as follows:

block the riser of their apartment and two neighboring ones;
unscrew the plug a couple of turns;
alternately open the valves on adjacent risers to find out which one is connected to the apartment, where you need to disconnect the radiator;
completely open an unnecessary valve;
the riser, which is in a pair, is blocked;
turn out the plugs on the riser of the apartment and the riser associated with it.

There are simpler options when there is no plug, and it is replaced by the usual "reset".

How to remove the radiator if it is installed on American women

If the radiator is connected to the heating system with the help of an American, then it will not be difficult to disconnect it:

unscrew the nuts using an adjustable, open-end or pipe wrench (the thread on the American is right);
then you need to pull the liner from the radiator cap quite a bit and remove the device from the brackets.

Dismantling should not be difficult, the battery can be removed within a few minutes. But it may happen that additional force is needed to separate the metal connections if the connection is diagonal. To make this easier, you need to slightly tilt the battery on the brackets.

What to do if the batteries are running out

The step-by-step steps for removing radiators on the spurs are as follows:

With a pipe wrench (number 1 or 2), you need to unscrew the lock nuts to the end of the thread of the spurs (right-hand thread). If paint residue or corrosive deposits interfere, the leash needs to be warmed up. This is done easily with a building hair dryer, a blowtorch, or in another convenient way.
The residual compressed winding is removed from the thread with a screwdriver or an ordinary knife. As a rule, red lead or plumbing linen.
Now you need to "roll" the radiator plugs. If the connection is one-sided, two plugs have a right-hand threaded connection. With a diagonal connection method, one of them is left, the letter "l" will indicate the threading.

You need to be ready for the moment when the rest of the coolant flows from the radiator.

Advice. For. to unscrew the cast-iron plug, use No3 or No4 pipe wrenches. To make the work easier, you can heat the collector of the first section. Even a small increase in diameter due to thermal expansion will cause the thread to break. Attention, it is necessary to heat the section, and not the cork itself!

Non-standard situations

An unpleasant situation may occur when, during dismantling cast iron batteries the bottom of the cork breaks off and the thread remains inside.

Proceed as follows:

the collector is warmed up;
put a chisel to the part in the direction of its twisting and try to turn it with a hammer;
as soon as the edge of the thread sticks out, it is turned out with pliers.

Often you have to remove old rusty batteries in which the threaded connection is corroded or even perforated.

In this situation, you need to do the following:

“Arm” with a coupling made of brass or cast iron desired diameter;
cut off the thread from the eyeliner, but leave the first five turns;
drive the thread with a die;
wind the thread with sanitary flax soaked in paint (on an organic solvent), which dries quickly;
screw the prepared coupling;
now the wound thread is screwed into the coupling, and the problem is solved.

What to do when the battery is welding?

Convectors were usually fastened with a welded seam. To dismantle them, it is advisable to arm yourself with a grinder with a disc for cutting steel. You can, in extreme cases, take a hacksaw for metal, but it will be much harder to work. The eyeliner is simply cut off. The main and very important condition for this is that this must be done strictly at a right angle.

To install a new battery, you will need to do new thread. It is not difficult as it seems at first glance, but, of course, cutting off the battery is much faster.

Step by step instructions on how to make a new thread:

With the help of a grinder or a regular file, a gentle chamfer is removed at the end of the pipe;
To facilitate the process, a lubricant is applied to the place where the pipe will be cut (the one used for the sewing machine is suitable);
The die is carefully put forward by the holder;
Now you need to clamp the eyeliner with a pipe wrench. This is done without fail, otherwise, when cutting, you can tear off the riser from the batteries, which are attached to it with the help of American women (in the next apartment). The consequences, of course, will be dire.
Next, the thread is cut. We must not forget to hold the eyeliner or riser. The main thing at the same time is not to rush, to do everything carefully, not to pinch. Usually it is enough to make five turns.

Results

Dismantling radiators is not such a difficult process if you know the theory of how to do it correctly. In any case, planned work must be carried out outside heating season. Touching the heating system in the dead of winter is a forced necessity.

In order for the performance of the heating system not to suffer, it is necessary to take all the necessary preventive measures in time. Therefore, it is better to take care of new radiators or clean old ones before the heating season. This applies to any work related to heating, both in private households and in apartments.

This article is about how to temporarily remove a heating radiator to replace it or follow it. Remove radiator not at all difficult, as it might seem at first glance, we will talk about this in the article. First of all, you must understand the consequences of a failed attempt to remove the radiator: if you don't know how to remove the radiator correctly, you may end up with a leak and ruin your flooring. However, if you pay attention to our tips, then you will eliminate all problems at once, during the process radiator removal.

First of all, we must show you the main elements of the radiator: at the top right - a control valve, at the bottom left - a shut-off valve (for adjusting the water supply), at the top left - a Mayevsky tap for bleeding air from a heating radiator.

With the help of a control valve, you can adjust the flow of incoming water into the radiator, by opening or closing the valve, you will adjust the temperature of its heating by adding and subtracting it accordingly. With the help of a shut-off valve, you can adjust how much water will come out. Most often, such a valve is used to balance all radiators and it is installed on each.

First of all, close the valves. Adjusting is blocked by hands, and locking with a hex key.

ADVICE: When you close the shut-off valve, remember how many turns you have made, so that later you can open it by the same amount.

Now you need to disconnect the radiator from the valves. To do this, you will need a wrench or gas wrench. The crane device consists of an American (removable coupling). Unscrew the American nut to separate the radiator from the valve.

ADVICE: In order not to spoil the flooring on the floor, place unnecessary rags under the radiator.

Turn off the valve...

We unscrew the adjusting valve in the same way ... For reliability, use the second key to hold the American fitting while unscrewing the nut.

Last step remove the radiator from brackets. best advice The one we can give you is that you remove the radiator with someone, as the radiator with water is very heavy. This operation requires at least two people.

ADVICE: If you will be painting the wall behind the radiator, seal the valves in bags or paper.

During the process of painting or gluing the wall, lay the radiator so that it does not get scratched. When you're done painting, hang your purchased new radiator or old one on the brackets.

With the radiator hanging in place, connect the faucet and radiator together with a zip tie. Twisting the shut-off valve, remember the number of turns that you had to scroll to block it and open exactly the same amount.

Open the control valve for the coolant supply, while you need to open the Mayevsky valve so that air escapes through it and the radiator fills with water. After water drips from the Mayevsky tap, shut it off, this will mean that the radiator has been filled with coolant.

Thank you for reading our article on how to temporarily remove a radiator, and our other articles. Don't forget to Love our projects and share them with your friends using social widgets.

This article is about how to remove a heating radiator. Depending on how it is connected to the pipes and the type of fittings, you may need different instruments and technical solutions. We have to get to know them.

Why is it needed

Dismantling is necessary in the following cases:

With intersectional leaks of a cast-iron battery at a short distance from the connections. If there are many sections, the length of the radiator key is often not enough to get to the desired pair of nipples from the side of the blind plugs. The only solution is to disassemble the radiator from the supply side;

Leakage between sections is a typical disease of cast iron batteries.

With fistulas of squealing on the connections to the radiator. To replace the squeegee (on threads or welding), you need to completely remove the heater;
When replacing radiators with new ones (with greater heat output or more aesthetically pleasing);
When restoring radiators by annealing them;

Cast-iron sections clogged with petrified silt can be brought into working condition by heating them (for example, in a fire) and tapping a wooden or rubber mallet. The burnt dirt is poured out through the collectors. Of course, after annealing, the intersection gaskets must be replaced.

When renovating a room. Plastering a wall or sticking wallpaper behind a battery, you see, is quite problematic.

Can you see everyone

Why are we talking about different ways dismantling radiators?

How do they connect differently?

fittings used. Traditionally, for the installation of Soviet-style cast-iron radiators, a bunch of squeegee (a pipe with a long thread) and lock nuts were used, now batteries are more often connected by Americans - quick-disconnect fittings with cap nuts;

In the photo - the connection of an aluminum sectional radiator by an American.

The location of the connections relative to the radiator. The connection can be one-sided or two-sided. This is important when mounting on sleds: one of the radiator plugs will have a left-hand thread.

A special case

In many houses built in the 80-90s, convectors are used as heating devices. The convector is a coil made of a steel pipe of the same diameter as the riser, with fins that increase heat transfer. A typical connection between a convector and a steel pipe is a butt weld.

Shutdown of the coolant supply

Let's move on to practice.

Before removing the radiator, you need to turn off the heating and drain the water. How to do it?

I'll take apart the heating in the apartment apartment building. For autonomous systems heating is difficult to give any general recommendations because of their personality.

The simplest scenario is to turn off the water with valves, ball valves or throttles installed on the inlets. It is enough to close the shut-off valves on both connections - and you can disassemble the connections on the radiator plugs, after substituting a basin or other container for draining water under them.

A jumper must be installed between the connections with shut-off valves. Without it, a closed throttle or valve will stop circulation in the entire riser. Very soon, neighbors will come to you and begin to question your high moral qualities aloud.

If the eyeliners are devoid of valves, you will have to look for and dump the riser. Here it is worth making a small lyrical digression.

AT apartment buildings with standing wiring, two filling arrangements are used:

Top bottling implies a feed placed in the attic. Risers connect it to a backfill located in the basement or underground. Each riser functions independently of the others and is turned off at two points - below and above;

In a house with bottom bottling, the supply and return wiring is made in the technical basement. The risers are alternately connected to both bottlings and are connected in pairs by jumpers on the top floor of the house. Accordingly, two risers will have to be turned off - supply and return.

To determine the type of wiring, look into the basement. If two horizontal pipes in thermal insulation are laid along the perimeter of the house, you have a lower filling, one is an upper one.

First, find your stand. In the basement, it is easiest to navigate along the flights of stairs between the entrance and the ground floor, in the attic - through the windows of the apartments. Further actions depend on the type of bottling.

Top filling

In the case of top filling, the shutdown procedure will be as follows:

Turn off the valve in the attic. Do not unscrew the plug;

Shut off the valve in the basement;

Unscrew the plug one or two turns and wait for the pressure of the water jet hitting the thread to drop. So you make sure that the shut-off valves are in full working order;
Unscrew the plug completely. The water hanging in the riser will pour out after you open the piping to the radiator.

bottom filling

Here is an instruction for turning off the heating riser in a house with a bottom bottling with your own hands:

Block your riser and two adjacent to it;
Unscrew the plug one or two turns;

Slowly open the valves on adjacent risers. So you will identify the riser associated with yours;
Fully open the valve you do not need. Block your riser;
Unscrew the plugs on your and associated risers.

Goodbye America

How to remove the battery installed on American women?

Extremely simple:

Unscrew the American nuts with an adjustable, open-end or pipe wrench. The threads on them are ordinary, right;

Pull the eyeliner from the radiator cap a few millimeters;
Remove the radiator from the brackets.

The only problem that may arise during dismantling is the significant force required to open the steel eyeliners when connected diagonally. In this case, slightly tilt the radiator on the brackets, and the Americans will disengage.

Drives

How to remove a radiator connected to the piping with spurs?

Use a pipe wrench No. 1 - No. 2 to lock nuts on the eyeliner. The lock nuts are always right-handed, regardless of their location relative to the radiator;
Drive the locknuts to the end of the threads of the spigots. If paint buildup and rust interfere with this, preheat the eyeliner with a building dryer, blowtorch or an impromptu gas burner from a can and a nozzle to it;

On the left is the initial position, on the right is the lock nut driven along the thread.

Remove the remnants of compressed winding from the threads (usually old threads are wound with red lead impregnated sanitary flax). This can be done with a flathead screwdriver or a knife;
Stronte and drive the radiator plugs after the lock nuts. With a one-sided connection, both through-hole plugs are with a right-hand thread, but with a diagonal connection, one of the through-hole plugs is left-handed. The letter “l” on the plane of the second plug, located on the same side of the radiator, indicates the reverse course of the thread.

The letter "L" indicates a left-hand thread.

Use a #3-#4 pipe wrench to loosen the cast iron plug. If it does not start, warm up the collector of the first section. Further on, thermal expansion will play on your side: the diameter of the collector will increase slightly, and the thread will break with little effort.

I emphasize: you need to heat not the cork, but the section.

When unscrewing the left plug, an unpleasant surprise awaits you: by rotating it, you will simultaneously screw the horn into the radiator. If there is a threaded connection on the side of the inlet, do not unscrew the radiator plug, but unscrew it from the coupling or corner. It will go into the hole in the cork, and then, after dismantling the heating battery, it will turn out without any effort.

What should I do if the bottom of the cast-iron plug breaks off, and the thread remains inside the section?

Warm up the collector;
Putting a chisel to the cast-iron part tangentially in the course of its unscrewing, turn it several turns with hammer blows;
When the edge of the thread appears from the collector, turn it out with pliers.

It is not uncommon for the long thread at the end of the liner near the locknut to be corroded with rust or decorated with a fistula. What to do in this case?

We will need:

Brass or cast iron coupling of the appropriate diameter;

Brass coupling. Size is 1/2 inch.

Short drive with long and short threads. Better brass. Yes, its price is two to three times higher than that of a steel part, but this is offset by an almost unlimited service life.

The way to repair the eyeliner is extremely simple:

We cut off the thread from the eyeliner, leaving only the first five threads;
We drive the thread with a die;
We wind up;

As a winding for heating, I use impregnated sanitary flax quick dry paint in an organic solvent. It prevents the organic fiber from rotting at low temperatures and burning out at high temperatures.

We wind the coupling;
We screw the wound short thread of the drive into the coupling.

Welding

To dismantle the convector, its connections are simply cut at right angles to the longitudinal axis using a hacksaw or grinder with a circle of steel.

To attach a new battery to the eyeliners, you will have to cut a new thread.

This is done like this:

With a file or a grinder we make an entry for a die - we remove a gentle chamfer at the end of the pipe;
Lubricate the end of the pipe with any oil (for sewing machines, motor work, even sunflower). Lubrication will reduce the force required for cutting and eliminate the appearance of burrs on the thread;
We put on the die with the holder forward;

A plate with a frame - holder.

We clamp the eyeliner with a pipe wrench and, in the process of threading, compensate for the rotational moment with it. Otherwise, there are very real chances to tear it away from the radiator installed on the sleds or American women in the next apartment;

We press the die with maximum effort to the end of the pipe and rotate it. The clamp is needed only when cutting the first thread, then the die only needs to be rotated.

Having cut five threads on one eyeliner, repeat all operations on the second. The work is done.

Conclusion

As you can see, the dismantling of heating appliances does not require special skills and is not difficult. The video in this article will help you learn more about it. Feel free to add to it by sharing in the comments. own experience. Good luck, comrades!

This article is about how to properly install heating radiators. The situation when old heating appliances need to be replaced is quite typical. We will study how to dismantle old convectors or cast iron radiators and find out how to adapt their connections to new bimetallic radiators.

The topic of this article is the replacement of radiators in an apartment.

Replacement or repair

Let's start with a small lyrical digression. Replacing old batteries is really necessary only in one case - when you have convectors installed, the heat transfer of which is insufficient to maintain a comfortable temperature in the room.

In all other cases, you can get by with much less expensive half-measures:

A cast iron sectional battery with cold last sections is often enough by installing a flushing valve instead of the lower blind plug;

Tip: if the outer sections are clogged with hard dirt, they can be dismantled and annealed at the stake.
After that, it is enough to tap the radiator with a mallet, knocking out the remnants of contaminants, and sort it out with the replacement of gaskets.

At uneven heating a long radiator can also be caused by a lateral one-way connection. In this case, the entire coolant circulates through the first few channels. To solve the problem, it is enough to redo the eyeliner by changing the connection scheme to diagonal;

Finally, if all sections are at the same temperature, but do not provide enough heat to the room, you can always add a few more sections.

Dismantling

So, how to dismantle the old device? We will consider solutions for a convector and a cast-iron radiator.

Convector

We reset the heating riser.
We cut the eyeliners with a grinder or a hacksaw. The distance from the cuts to the nearest bend is at least 15 centimeters: it should allow us to cut the thread.

Having prying the convector with a mount, we tear out the mounting dowels from the wall.
We remove the outer chamfer on both eyeliners with a file, making an entry for the die.
We cut five threads of thread.

Tip: if you lubricate the pipe with a small amount of any oil (spindle oil, sewing machine oil, or even mining from the crankcase of a car), the thread will be cut with less effort and without scoring.

Cast iron radiator

Dropping the stand.
Loosen the locknuts on both hoses. If the thread is clogged with paint, we first burn it out with a building hair dryer, gas burner or blowtorch.
We drive the radiator plugs after the nuts to the end of the thread. If the plug does not turn away, warming up again will help: heat the collector of the last section, and thermal expansion will allow you to remove the threads.
Remove the radiator from the bracket.

materials

What and how to install heating radiators? Let's start with the selection and strapping elements.

Installation or transfer of a heating radiator in the central heating system without welding can be performed:

Threaded black or galvanized steel pipe. Steel pipes provide maximum resistance to pressure surges; however, assembly involves a lot of hand-threading and fine-tuning of nozzle sizes.

Corrugated stainless steel pipe. It perfectly tolerates water hammer (destructive pressure declared for Korean Kofulso pipes is at least 50 atmospheres), easily bends with a minimum radius and is mounted with a pair of adjustable wrenches. The only drawback of pipes is the relatively high price (from 200 rubles per linear meter).

Before you hang a heating radiator, you should also choose shut-off and control valves. This role may be played by:

A couple more things to consider:

On the top floor of the house with the bottom filling in the blind plug of the device or at the top point of the jumper between the paired heating risers, an air vent must be installed - a Mayevsky tap or an automatic air vent.

Note: an air vent is also needed on any of the lower floors if the upper collector of the device is located above the connections (for example, when installing a radiator instead of a small-sized convector).

Before any throttling or shut-off valves, a bypass is required (a jumper between the connections). The instruction is related to the fact that without a bypass, a choke, faucet or thermal head will regulate the patency of the entire riser, and very soon neighbors saddened by this fact will come to you.

To connect the fittings to the radiator, quick-release fittings are usually used - American. Compared to traditional installation on sleds, they speed up the procedure for installing or dismantling the radiator with their own hands several times.

Mounting

wall mount

How to hang a radiator on a solid wall? For a radiator of any type, a set of pin brackets is purchased at the rate of one bracket for three sections.

Further installation is not difficult:

Attachment points are marked under the upper and lower manifolds.
The wall is drilled with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the plastic dowel of the bracket.
A dowel is driven into the wall, into which the bracket is wrapped. The operation is repeated as many times as necessary.

How to hang heating radiators in the absence of brackets? Smooth fittings with a diameter of 10 - 12 mm with a chamfer removed from one side will come to the rescue. It is driven into holes drilled in the wall of a slightly smaller (0.5 mm) diameter.

Floor mounting

How to put a heating radiator in a room with light partitions (say, from plasterboard or cinder blocks)?

Brackets for floor mounting are attached to the floor with anchor bolts or self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 8 mm with hexagonal heads.

Attention: on wooden floor it is desirable to additionally fix the battery to the wall, even if it is light.
Thus, we will give the structure the rigidity it lacks.

The radiator is hung on racks and fixed with regular fasteners.

Traffic jams

How to hang a heating radiator - we figured it out. The next step is the installation of through and deaf radiator plugs.

For their sealing, regular gaskets are usually used - silicone (for sections with an annular groove along the plane of the end face of the collector) or paronite.

However, often instead of a gasket, a simple and proven method of sealing threads is used - linen with paint.

A small amount of any quick-drying white (matching the color of the radiator) paint is applied to the threads.
A strand of sanitary flax is wound along the thread.
A little more paint is applied over the strand, after which the thread is tightened.

Note: This method is great for any threaded connections in the heating system.

Pipe installation

We will consider it using the example of corrugated stainless steel - the easiest material to install.

Fittings are screwed onto the threads of the eyeliner. It is better to shorten the leads on the eyeliners left over from the cast-iron batteries to five threads and drive them off with a die so as not to damage the relatively soft brass fitting. The thread sealing method is described above.
The fitting nut is loosened, after which the pipe is inserted into it.
Then the nut is tightened with an adjustable wrench with moderate force.

Connection of plugs with fittings

How to hang heating radiators on American women?

The mating (threaded) part of the American is screwed into the radiator cap.
The union nut fitting is centered by bending the corrugated pipe in front of it.
The nut is screwed onto the thread of the counterpart and tightened with an adjustable wrench.

Crimping

Another important point regarding how to correctly install the heating radiator, ensuring that there are no leaks: after assembling all connections, a pressure test is mandatory.

In winter, it is enough to fill the riser; in the summer you will have to use a pressure test pump. Overpressure is created in the circuit section, the absence of a drop of which is checked by a pressure gauge for half an hour.

Conclusion

We hope that our recommendations will be useful to the reader when self replacement heating appliances in a city apartment. For more information on how to install heating radiators, the reader will be offered the video attached to the article. Good luck!