BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE MACHINE
The sewing machine "Tula" is simple, convenient and reliable in operation. It has a streamlined body with removable top and flip-down bottom covers.
Mechanisms are mounted in the upper part of the body: needle bar, thread take-up, changing the position of the stitch, adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch, adjusting the stitch length (feed pitch) and presser foot on the fabric. The presence in the machine of mechanisms for changing the position of the stitch and adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch is distinctive feature design of the sewing machine "Tula". For the convenience of operating the machine, the handles of the mechanisms for changing the position of the line, adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch and stitch length are located on the front side of the machine.
In the lower part of the machine body, a gearbox is mounted, designed to transmit movement from the main shaft to the shuttle, a rotary shuttle and a fabric feed mechanism.
The drive of the machine is carried out from an electric motor mounted in the machine body and having a device for switching the voltage to 127 - 220 V. Largest number revolutions of the main shaft (needle injections) - 1000 rpm ..
Starting and stopping the machine, as well as regulating the number of revolutions of the main shaft is carried out using a foot rheostat. Devices for suppressing radio interference are mounted in the electric motor and rheostat.
To wind the thread on the bobbin, the machine has special device, which is performed in two versions. In both cases, the winding is carried out by an electric motor, which is disconnected from the main winder during the winding of the thread.
The machine is equipped with a 15 watt electric lamp for local lighting. The lamp is covered with a protective cover to prevent burns if accidentally touched by hand. Turning the lighting on and off is done by a special push-button switch mounted on the back of the machine platform.
The machine allows you to make the following adjustments:
a) tension change upper thread,
b) changing the tension of the lower thread,
c) changing the stitch length (feed pitch) from 0 to 4 mm,
d) change in the direction of tissue movement,
e) changing the width of the zigzag stitch from 0 to 4 mm,
f) changing the pressure of the foot on the fabric,
g) changing the tension of the motor belt.
The weight of the sewing machine is not more than 9 kg.
The weight of the machine with case and accessories is not more than 14.5 kg.
The machine with ballast and accessories box is stored and transported in a special carrying case.
III. PREPARING THE MACHINE FOR WORK
1. Removing the machine from the case and installing it in the case.
Place the suitcase on the table with the handle up. Open the locks and, opening the lid of the case, remove the cords, the ballast and the box with accessories from the upper compartment. Slightly lifting the machine by the body, remove it from the carrying case (Fig. 1).
When removing the machine from the case immediately after the factory packaging, it is necessary to remove the device that prevents the machine from moving during transport.
When storing the machine at home in a case, this device can be omitted.
After finishing work, it is advisable to put the machine in a case-case, for which you first put the machine in it, and then put the box with accessories, ballast and, finally, skins in the upper compartment.
Store the machine in a carrying case with the handle up.
2. Removing factory grease
Before starting work on the sewing machine, it is necessary to remove from its surface the anti-corrosion grease applied to certain parts of the machine when it left the factory. To do this, first wipe the machine with a swab of absorbent cotton or gauze slightly moistened with gasoline, and then wipe it dry.
3. Turning on the machine in the mains.
Before connecting the machine to the mains, make sure that the mains voltage matches the voltage of the electric motor and the light bulb
cars. To do this, pressing the button 4 of the bottom cover with the finger of the left hand, right hand lay the machine on its side and check that the position of the arrow of the switch inserted into the socket of the electric motor panel corresponds to the mains voltage. If the set motor voltage does not correspond to the mains voltage, then it is necessary to remove the switch and rearrange it and the panel socket so that the arrow points towards the voltage corresponding to the mains voltage (Fig. 2).
Switch positions for mains voltage 127 and 220 V.
In order to check the voltage of the light bulb, open the safety cover 17, unscrew the light bulb (Fig. 3) and see what voltage is indicated on its base. In the event that the operating voltage of the light bulb does not match the mains voltage, replace the light bulb with another one from the accessory box.
It is strictly forbidden to switch the voltage and change the light bulb in a machine connected to the mains.
Make sure that the machine is connected to the mains correctly, put the plug with the cord from the machine on the ballast plug, and plug the plug into the mains socket. Then press the button switch 28 and turn on the local lighting.
Rotating the flywheel with your hand towards you and gently pressing the rheostat pedal with your foot, start the machine.
It is strictly forbidden to start the machine with the sewing foot lowered without any fabric underlay.
4. Winding thread on a bobbin.
Place the spool pin 20 in working position. To do this, press the lower end of the rod with your finger and, pulling the protruding upper end, pull the rod up until the fixing spring clicks (Fig. 4). Place the spool of thread on the spool pin and thread the machine in the following order:
If the bobbin winder is located on the motor shaft, then pass the thread through the eye of the thread guide 14, then through the eye of the thread guide 3. After that, wind a few turns of thread on the bobbin by hand and, opening the bobbin cover 29, put the bobbin on the protruding device so that so that the fixing rod enters the groove on the bobbin, and the thread runs on it from below (Fig. 5a). With the machine running, wind the thread onto the bobbin. If the bobbin winder is mounted on the top cover of the machine, then pass the thread through the eye of the thread guide 14 and, winding several turns of thread on the bobbin by hand, put the bobbin on the axis of the device so that the fixing rod on the axis enters the groove on the bobbin, and the thread runs on from above (Fig. 5b). Before turning on the machine, put the thread winder in the working position, for which turn the handle 32 to the left until it stops. Then start the machine and wind the thread onto the bobbin. After winding the bobbin, the handle 32 must be turned to the right.
For the bobbin to work properly in the hook, the thread wound on it must lie in dense and even rows, without a bulge in the middle and without shifting the turns to the edges. To achieve this, it is recommended that you guide the thread along the bobbin by hand when winding the thread.
5. Inserting a wound bobbin into the hook and threading.
Before removing the hook from the machine, put the needle bar with needle 31 in the upper position by turning the handwheel 19 towards you by hand.
Pulling the cover 5 towards you, press the shuttle holder spring with the thumb of your left hand so that the holder stand leans back, and remove the shuttle from the holder (Fig. 6).
Take the shuttle in your left hand, and insert the wound bobbin into it with your right hand. Thread the end of the thread running off the bobbin into the slot of the hook so that the thread gets under the thread tension spring and exits through the eye of the spring. Then thread the thread through the hook hole and pull it until the end of the thread protrudes about 8 to 10 cm. The rotation of the bobbin must be clockwise (Fig. 7.1, 7.2, 7.3, 7.4).
6. Putting the shuttle into the machine.
Install the shuttle on the holder post so that the holder stop is between the hook horns. Close the hook holder until the holder spring clicks. To avoid breaking the needle, when closing the holder, make sure that the needle is in the up position. After inserting the shuttle, close the sliding cover (Fig. 8).
7. Installing the needle.
Insert the needle facing the flat back into the needle bar, pushing it from the bottom up to the stop, and secure by tightly tightening the needle fastening screw 9. The needle bar 31 must be in the upper position (Fig. 9).
8. Upper threading.
To ensure the correct operation of the machine, it is necessary to correctly thread the upper thread (fig. 10). This is achieved in the following way:
a) put a spool of thread on the spool pin 20,
b) raise the sewing foot 18 to the upper position with the handle of the fabric presser (presser) rod 23.
c) by turning the handwheel towards you put the thread take-up 13 in the upper position.
d) after unwinding the thread from the spool, thread it in the following sequence:
into the thread guide 14, between the belleville washers of the upper thread tension adjustment mechanism 16, behind the thread tension spring 12, behind the thread guide 11, into the thread take-up eye 13, into the thread guide 10 on the machine body and above the needle, insert the end of the thread into the eye of the needle from the front and pull the thread to 8 - 10cm.
9. Pulling up the bobbin thread.
Take the end of the needle thread with your left hand and, without pulling it, turn the handwheel towards you until the needle drops into the hole in the needle plate 6, grabs the lower bobbin thread and rises to the top position. Then pull on the end of the needle (top) thread. This will cause the bobbin (lower) thread to come out through the hole in the needle plate. Insert both threads into the slot of the sewing foot and pull back (Fig. 11).
IV. WORKING ON THE SEWING MACHINE
Before you start sewing on a machine, you need to familiarize yourself with the operation of individual components and mechanisms.
1. Adjusting the stitch length, changing the direction of fabric movement and securing the thread.
For various kinds of work and depending on the type of sewn fabrics, a seam with a different stitch length is used. Adjusting the stitch length and changing the direction of fabric movement is done using the handle 2a.
Before starting work, the handle must be at zero, and the limiting screw 2b is turned out so that when the handle is rotated to the right or left, the handle pointer becomes opposite the last division of the scale 2c. Getting started, turn the handle (the fabric will move away from the worker, i.e. in the main working direction), put the pointer on the division corresponding to the selected stitch length and fix the handle with the stop screw, screwing it in until it stops.
Each division of the scale corresponds approximately to a stitch length (fabric advance) of 1 mm. For example, if the handle is set to the first division, then the stitch length (advance of the fabric) will be 1 mm, if the handle is set to the second division, the stitch length will be 2 mm, etc. The largest stitch length is 4 mm.
By turning the knob to the left from zero to the last division, you can change the stitch length from zero to 4 mm. In this case, the fabric will move away from the worker, i.e., in the main working direction. When turning the knob from zero to the last division to the right, you can change the stitch length from zero to 4 mm, but the fabric will move in the opposite direction, i.e. to the working one.
To increase the stitch length, unscrew the limit screw, set the handle to the newly selected division and turn the limit screw all the way. To reduce the stitch length, it is enough to turn the knob to the right, put the pointer on the desired division, without moving the knob beyond zero, and tighten the limit screw until it stops.
For normal sewing, the limit screw can be omitted, but if you need to fasten the thread at the end of the stitch, then the use of the limit screw is mandatory, as this greatly facilitates the work. To do this, the handle is fixed with a restrictive screw at the set division. And at the end of the line, the handle is turned to the right until it stops, which changes the direction of movement of the fabric, while maintaining the length of the stitch. After making a few stitches in the opposite direction, quickly turn the handle to the left until it stops, sew forward by about the same amount and turn off the machine.
2. Adjusting the zigzag stitch width
Changing the width of the zigzag stitch in combination with changing the length of the stitch makes it possible to obtain various shaped seams, which, when sewn with colored threads, can be used to artistic decoration product.
The width of the zigzag stitch is adjusted using the knob 1a (Fig. 13). Before starting work, the handle must be at zero, and the restrictive plates 1b and 1c must be in a horizontal position. The 1g set screw slot should be located along the handle.
Getting started, select the desired width of the zigzag stitch and, turning the handle to the right, put the pointer on the selected division, after which the handle is fixed with the help of restrictive plates. To do this, press the button of the limiting plate 1b with your thumb, disengage it from the groove of the scale 1d and move it down until the fixing tooth of the limiting plate falls into the slot against the risk corresponding to the set stitch width. Then the restrictive plate 1c is also moved.
Scale division 1d corresponds to a zigzag stitch width of 0.5 mm.
With the setting of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism described as described, only a constant stitch width can be sewn. Get a seam.
If in the process of sewing with a zigzag stitch with a constant stitch width, it is necessary to sew some section with a straight stitch, then, upsetting the settings for sewing with a zigzag stitch, pull the set screw 1g towards you and turn it so that the slot of the screw becomes across the handle. This will disengage the set screw from the stop plates and allow the handle to rotate freely. By setting the knob to zero, you can sew with a straight stitch.
At the end of sewing with a straight stitch, set the handle pointer to the previous division and turn the set screw so that its slot is located along the slot of the handle. In this case, a clear click should be heard. This will show that the set screw has entered the slot and you can continue to sew with the zigzag stitch at the same stitch width. Get a seam.
If in the course of work it is necessary to change the width of the zigzag stitch, then the restrictive plates are not used, i.e. they remain horizontal. By smoothly rotating the knob from zero to 4 and back, you can get a shaped seam.
Note that the zigzag stitch width dial can be turned while the machine is running. With the machine turned off and the fabric under the presser foot, the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob can only be rotated when the needle is in the up position.
3. Changing the stitch position
By changing the stitch position, you can use the machine to perform tasks such as buttonholes, sewing on buttons, press studs and hooks. It is produced using the handle 15 (Fig. 14).
With the main position of the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the stitch, the needle injections with a straight-line stitch are located in the center of the window of the needle plate, and with a zigzag stitch, the needle injections lie symmetrically relative to the initial position of the needle (Fig. 15).
If you turn the handle to the right, then the needle pricks with a straight stitch seam will be located on the right side of the needle plate window, and with a zigzag stitch, the needle pricks will lie from right to left (Fig. 16).
If you turn the handle to the left, then the needle pricks with a straight stitch seam will be located on the left side of the needle plate window, and with a zigzag stitch, the needle pricks will lie from left to right (Fig. 17).
The rearrangement of the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the line can be done on the move of the machine. If the machine is not running and there is fabric under the presser foot, the needle can only be changed when the needle is in the up position. Otherwise, the needle may bend or break.
4. Straight stitch sewing
Before sewing with a straight line, the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the line 15 must occupy the main position, that is, be opposite the worker. The zigzag stitch width adjustment knob 1 must be set to zero. By turning the stitch length adjustment knob to the left, set to the desired division.
Having threaded the machine (see section III, § 8, 9), thread take-up 13 is left in the top position. Place the fabric to be sewn under the sewing foot and turn the handwheel toward you by hand until the needle pierces the fabric. After that, the sewing foot is lowered, two or three stitches are made, turning the handwheel by hand, and by gently pressing the foot on the rheostat pedal, the machine is put into operation.
Do not pull the fabric while sewing! It is automatically advanced by the cloth feeder.
Do not operate the machine with the threads threaded and without the fabric underlay!
The finished job can only be taken out when the needle is in the up position. To do this, raise the sewing foot up, pull the sewn fabric away from you and cut the threads so that the ends coming out of the machine are about 8-10 cm.
After finishing work on the machine, it is necessary to lower the sewing foot down, placing a piece of fabric under it.
5. Sewing with a zigzag stitch
Combining the mutual arrangement of the handles of the mechanisms for changing the position of the stitch, adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch and adjusting the stitch length, you can get various shaped seams (Fig. 19).
Below is how you can get each of the seams shown in the figure. At the same time, the handles of the mechanisms should be in their original position, i.e., the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the line occupies the main position, and the handle of the mechanisms for adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch and adjusting the stitch length are at zero.
To obtain a zigzag seam (A), turn the zigzag stitch adjustment knob to the right and put the pointer on the selected division, for example, 2. Turning the stitch length adjustment knob to the left of zero, set it to the selected division, for example, 2. Then thread the machine , place the fabric to be sewn under the sewing foot and, turning the handwheel towards you, prick the needle into the fabric. Then lower the sewing foot and, gently pressing the rheostat pedal with your foot, start the machine. At the indicated position of the handles, a uniform zigzag stitch with a width of 2 mm will be obtained.
To obtain a zigzag stitch (B), set the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob to the selected division, for example, 2, and set the stitch length adjustment knob to the minimum feed, for example, half the first division to the left of zero. With this position of the handles, a frequent zigzag stitch will be obtained, which can be used when overcasting cut and hemmed edges (for example, when making frills, flounces, etc.), when embroidering and when sewing buttonholes.
To get a shaped seam (B), you must first sew the desired section with a straight stitch, setting the stitch length adjustment knob to the desired division to the left of zero, for example, 2. Then, without turning off the machine, move the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob to the desired division, for example, 2 and sew the desired section with a zigzag stitch. After that, without turning off the machine, you can turn the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob to zero and continue sewing with a straight stitch.
If you stop the machine when sewing from a straight stitch to a zigzag stitch and vice versa, the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob can only be rotated when the needle is in the up position (out of the fabric). Otherwise, the needle may bend or break.
To obtain a shaped seam (D), set the handle for changing the stitch length to a very small feed, for example, half the first division, turning it to the left of zero. Starting to sew, smoothly turn the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob from 0 to 4 and back during the entire operation of the machine, without stopping it.
To obtain a shaped seam (D), set the stitch width adjustment knob to a small feed, for example, to the first division to the left of zero, and sew a certain section with a straight line. Then, smoothly turning the handle of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism from 0 to 4 and back while the machine is moving, sew a certain section with a zigzag stitch. By leaving the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob at zero, you can sew straight stitch again.
To get a shaped seam (E), the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the line must be set to one of the extreme positions, and the handle of the stitch length adjustment mechanism to the selected division, for example, half the first division to the left of zero. Use the handle of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism when sewing in the same way as when making a shaped seam (D).
6. Thread tension
To obtain a quality seam, it is necessary that the upper and lower threads intertwine in the middle of the sewn fabrics (Fig. 20).
If the upper thread tension is too strong or the lower thread tension is too weak, then the weave of the threads is obtained on the upper side of the sewn fabrics - the machine loops from above (Fig. 21). To eliminate this phenomenon, you need to loosen the tension of the upper thread or increase the tension of the lower thread.
If the upper thread tension is too loose or the bobbin thread tension is too strong, then the threads will be entwined on the underside of the sewn fabrics - the machine loops from below (fig. 22). To eliminate this phenomenon, you need to increase the tension of the upper thread or loosen the tension of the lower thread.
The upper thread tension is adjusted by turning the knurled nut 16a of the upper thread tension mechanism 16 (Fig. 23). To increase the tension, the nut should be turned clockwise.
In this case, the pointer 16b will move along the scale of the body 16c to the sign<+>(a plus). To reduce thread tension, turn the nut counterclockwise. In this case, the pointer will move along the body scale to the sign<->(minus).
The upper thread tension can only be adjusted when the sewing foot is lowered.
Changing the tension of the lower thread is carried out by turning the adjusting screw (Fig. 24). Turning the screw clockwise increases the thread tension, turning it counterclockwise decreases the thread tension.
Adjusting the bobbin thread tension is usually done relatively infrequently, since with a normally set tension, a good stitch can in most cases be obtained by adjusting the bobbin thread tension.
The quality of the seam also largely depends on the correct choice of needle and thread numbers, according to the type of fabric being sewn. When choosing numbers, you should be guided by the following table:
Use the table for modern threads and materials.
The thickness of the upper and lower threads may not be the same. In such cases, a thinner and lighter thread must always be used as the bottom thread.
When sewing thin fabrics, loosen the thread tension to prevent the seams from pulling together.
If, despite the selection of the needle and threads and the adjustment of the tension, the fabric still shrinks, it is recommended to sew the paper placed under it together with the fabric. After the paper is torn at the seam, the seam will stretch and give a good, unwrinkled stitch.
7. Presser foot pressure adjustment
The pressure of the sewing foot on the fabric should be sufficient to feed the fabric evenly and to prevent the fabric from lifting at the moment the needle comes out of it. Excessive pressure makes the machine difficult to move.
The degree of pressure of the sewing foot on the fabric rarely needs to be changed, but when sewing very thin fabrics, it may be necessary to slightly loosen the pressure of the sewing foot, and when sewing thick fabrics, increase it.
To change the pressure of the sewing foot, use the adjusting screw (Fig. 25). When the screw is screwed in, the pressure of the sewing foot increases, and when it is turned out, it decreases.
8. Motor Belt Tension Adjustment
After running the machine for a long time, the drive belt from the electric motor to the flywheel may become slightly longer and begin to slip. In this case, it must be tightened, for which unscrew the motor mounting bolt 30 (Fig. 26) and, slightly releasing it down, fix it again. The belt is tensioned a little, otherwise the machine will run hard and the electric motor will be overloaded.
9. Turning off the cloth feeder
The sewing machine "Tula" has a mechanism for turning off the feeder ( conveyor) tissue. This allows you to perform tasks such as sewing on buttons, buttons and hooks, embroidery and darning.
In order to turn off the tissue feeder, it is necessary to pull out the sliding cover 5 and turn the nut of the shutdown mechanism from yourself to the full (Fig. 27).
V. TYPES OF SEWING WORKS
With the help of interchangeable machine feet and accessories on the Tula sewing machine, you can perform various sewing jobs.
To change the sewing foot, unscrew the foot screw and remove it. To install the desired presser foot, put it on the cloth presser bar 8 and lightly fasten it with the presser foot screw. Then lower the cloth presser rod with the help of lever 23 and finally tighten the foot fastening screw 7 (Fig. 28).
List of interchangeable sewing feet and accessories and their purpose(Fig. 29).
Straight stitch foot 10
Zigzag foot 7
Stitch sewing foot 4
Hem foot for hemming without pre-folding 5
Buttonhole foot 1
Foot for sewing on buttons, buttons, hooks 2
Quilting foot with guide ruler for quilting cotton products 8
Boundary ruler to obtain a stitch at an equal distance from the edge or from another stitch.
Device for embroidery.
Knife for cutting loops.
1. Zaposhivka (linen seam)
For this type of work, a sewing foot is used - 4 (Fig. 29).
Sewing with a stitching (linen) seam is performed in two operations (Fig. 30).
First operation.
Take two pieces of fabric to be stitched and put them one on top of the other so that the bottom piece of fabric protrudes about 4 mm relative to the top one. Having folded the protruding edge of the lower fabric and brought it under the foot, pierce it with a needle and, lowering the foot, sew 2-3 stitches, leaving the needle in the fabric. Then, while raising the foot, bring the folded edge into the slot of the foot and sew, making sure that the top fabric is stitched.
Second operation.
Expand the sewn fabrics, bend the formed seam to the left and bring it under the foot again. Puncture with a needle, lower the foot and sew 2-3 stitches, leave the needle in the fabric. Then, raising the foot, bring the wrapped seam into the slot of the foot and sew.
2. Undercut
For this type of work, a hemming foot is used - 5 (Fig. 29).
To hem the edge, first fold the edge of the fabric about 3 mm, and then again 5 mm. Place the fabric to be hemmed under the foot and, after piercing with the needle, lower the foot. Sew 2-3 stitches, leaving the needle in the fabric. Then raise the presser foot, tuck the folded edge of the fabric into the snail of the foot and lower it. Gently start the machine and sew, making sure that the folded edge of the fabric guides and fills the snail. This will ensure the correct formation of the seam (Fig. 31). The stitch length is selected depending on the type of fabric being hemmed. The most commonly used stitch is 2.5 to 3 mm long.
The hemmer foot allows you to sew straight and zigzag stitches.
3. Buttonholes
For this type of work, foot 1 (Fig. 29) is used with a hole for guiding the cord, which serves to give the loop greater strength and a better appearance (Fig. 32).
The buttonhole is sewn as follows: having outlined the length of the buttonhole on the fabric, insert the cord into the hole in the foot and lower it onto the fabric. Turn the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the line to the right until it stops. Set the handle of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism to the selected division (the width of the zigzag stitch is chosen such that when sewing the needle pricks overlap the cord) and secure with the help of restrictive plates (see paragraph 4 § 2 "Adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch").
Set the stitch length adjustment knob to the desired stitch length by turning it to the left, fix it at the set interval using the limit screw (see point 4 § 1 "Stitch length adjustment").
With the handles in the selected position, sew the cord to the length of the loop and leave the needle in the fabric to the left of the sewn zigzag stitch. Then raise the sewing foot and rotate the fabric 180 degrees by turning it to the right. Pull the cord up to the needle and lower the foot. Make one needle prick to the right to grab the cord and pull the needle out of the fabric.
Now you need to fasten the loop. To do this, put the handle of the mechanism for changing the position of the line 15 in the main position (see paragraph 4 § 3 "Changing the position of the line"). Pull the head of the set screw of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism handle, position it so that the slot on the screw head is across the slot of the handle. Then turn your hand to the right and set the handle pointer to a division twice as large as it was. when fastening a buttonhole, the stitch width should be twice as large as when sewing a cord. Set the stitch length knob to the zero position.
With this setting, sew 4-6" stitches and, leaving the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot. The last needle prick should be made on right side bartacks.
After that, turn the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob to the left and set it to the previous division. After pulling the set screw towards you, set it so that the slot on the head of the screw coincides with the slot on the handle. At the same time, a click should be heard. Set the handle of the stitch length regulator mechanism to the previous division, turning it to the left until it stops.
Lowering the foot and overcasting the second side of the buttonhole, the needle is left in the fabric to the right of the buttonhole and the foot is raised. When fixing the second side of the loop, the handles of the mechanisms should be installed in the same way as in the first case. The last injection is made to the left of the loop, and the needle is removed from the tissue. Then set the handle of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism to zero and make several injections in one place. By this, the threads will finally be fixed and will no longer bloom. The loop is swept. Now you need to remove the needle from the fabric and cut the threads.
Cut the finished loop special knife, being careful not to damage the threads inside the loop.
The sequence of the buttonhole operation.
1. Start sewing the first side of the buttonhole (the needle is to the left of the cord).
2. End of sewing on the first side of the buttonhole (the needle remains in the fabric to the left of the cord).
3. Rotate the fabric 180 degrees (counterclockwise).
4. Pulling the cord to the needle, the needle is pricked to the right and removed from the fabric.
5. Fasten the first side of the loop. The needle remains in the fabric on the right.
6. Sheathe the second side of the loop and leave the needle to the right of the loop in the fabric.
7. Fasten the second side of the loop. The last needle prick is made to the left of the loop and removed from the tissue.
8. Make several stitches in one place to finally secure the thread.
Before you start sewing buttonholes, it is recommended that you read the above instructions several times and practice adjusting the machine.
The sequence of the buttonhole operation, see fig. 33
4. Sewing on buttons, buttons and hooks
For this type of work, foot 2 is used (Fig. 29). To sew on a button or button, first turn off the fabric feeder. Turn the stitch position adjustment knob to the right so that the sewn stitches lie from right to left.
Place the button to be sewn under the foot so that the point of the needle is in the center of the right button hole. After that, lower the presser foot and turn the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob until the point of the needle is in the center of the left button hole (Fig. 34). Holding the end of the upper thread, sew on the button with 4-5 stitches.
If the button has four holes, then after sewing it through the first pair of holes, raise the foot, bring the second pair of holes under the needle and sew again with 4-6 stitches. It should be remembered at the same time that, firstly, the movement of the button towards itself must be done so that the next pair of buttonholes lies on the same plane with a spread of needle pricks; secondly, if the needle at the last injection left the left button hole, then after moving the fabric with the button to be sewn, it should enter the right hole of the second pair and vice versa
When sewing on buttons, buttons and hooks, the last injection should be made in the right hole. As soon as the needle comes out of the right button hole, turn the zigzag stitch width adjustment knob to the zero position and make several injections in place to finally secure.
On the Tula machine, buttons can be sewn with a distance between the centers of the button holes of no more than 3 mm.
5. Stitch
For this type of work, foot 8 with a guide ruler is used. (Fig. 29).
The stitch is performed in the following order: at the beginning, a straight stitch seam is sewn, then the guide ruler is set to the required width between the lines and the position of the ruler is fixed with a screw. When sewing, the fabric is guided in such a way that the guide part of the ruler slides along the previously stitched line (Fig. 35).
The ruler should slide over the fabric freely, without pressure. The stitch length is recommended at 3 - 4 mm.
6. Sewing with a limit line.
The limit ruler is used when sewing when the stitch needs to be sewn at an equal distance from the edge of the fabric or from another stitch. A limiting ruler is installed at a certain distance from the needle and fixed on the machine platform with a screw that is screwed into the hole on the platform (Fig. 36)
When sewing with the guide bar, the fabric should be guided so that its edge touches the guide stop stop at all times.
7. Embroidery
Embroidery is an art that requires great skill. By its nature, it is close to drawing, only here the paints are replaced with threads of selected colors or pieces of multi-colored fabrics.
There are several types and methods of artistic embroidery, which, with a certain skill, can be carried out on the Tula machine: solution, appliqué, artistic smoothness, and others. However, the basic techniques of work are common to all types of embroidery.
For embroidery, a round hoop and small scissors with curved sharp ends are required. The printed fabric is stretched taut in the hoop. In order to prevent warping of the fabric, you should first pull it along the shared thread, and then slightly tighten the material on the sides and straighten the formed folds and gathers.
On light fabrics, the pattern is applied using carbon paper or directly drawn on them. On dark fabrics, the pattern is applied as follows: first, apply the pattern on thin or tissue paper, then apply this paper to the fabric, lightly mark along the edges and lay it in the hoop. After that, sew along the lines of the pattern with a straight stitch, remove the fabric from the hoop and tear off the stitched paper. On the fabric you will get the desired pattern.
Preparing the machine for embroidery
1. Remove the sewing foot.
2. Lower the cloth tension lever down so that the upper thread is always under tension.
3. Remove the sliding cover and turn the cloth feeder nut away from you to turn off the cloth feeder.
4. Place the embroidery attachment on the needle plate and slide it all the way into the plate. At correct installation embroidery attachment, the needle will fit exactly into the needle hole.
5. Install sliding cover.
6. Set the zigzag stitch width and stitch length knobs to the zero position.
7. Thread the machine.
When embroidering, it is necessary to slightly increase the tension of the lower thread, respectively, loosening the tension of the upper thread. This is done so that the front seam is more convex.
8. Bring the hoop under the needle and, holding the end of the needle thread, make one needle prick by turning the handwheel by hand. Pull the top thread and pull the bottom thread up. Then, holding the ends of both threads, make 2-3 stitches, turning the handwheel by hand, and turn on the machine. The hoop with the fabric is moved when embroidering by hand. It is necessary to make movement with the needle in the upper position without tearing off the hoop from the surface of the embroidery fixture, so as not to get skipped stitches. The machine should be embroidered at low speed. The sequence of machine preparation methods described above
to embroidery is common to all types of embroidery.
Cutwork embroidery(Fig. 37)
Richelieu is a kind of artistic embroidery, when part of the pattern is cut out of the fabric, and the resulting cuts are filled with bridges or cobwebs. Therefore, before embroidering, it is recommended to sew the fabric once or twice along the pattern line with a straight stitch for greater strength. Handles of mechanisms at
this should be in the zero position, and the movement of the hoop along the lines of the pattern is done manually.
After that, the fabric is cut out in the right places, and the stitched straight seams are necessarily overcast.
When overcasting on sewing machines that do not have a zigzag mechanism, it is necessary to make oscillatory movements of the hoop perpendicular to the lines of the pattern and at the same time move the hoop along the lines of the pattern. The advantage of the Tula sewing machine is the presence in it of a mechanism that forms a zigzag seam. This makes the oscillatory movement of the hoop unnecessary and greatly facilitates the work.
To overcast a sewn straight seam on the machine, it is enough to set the handle of the zigzag stitch width adjustment mechanism to the desired division and sew normally, moving the hoop only along the lines of the pattern. When overcasting, make sure that the straight seam is inside the zigzag seam.
Applique embroidery(Fig. 38)
When embroidering with appliqué, the design should first be applied to the main fabric. In the case when the application is performed on light-colored fabrics, the pattern is applied using carbon paper, lined on both sides. If the application is performed on fabrics of dark tones, then the pattern is applied as described above.
After transferring the drawing to front side fabrics, separate pieces of fabrics of the desired color are swept in a certain sequence. For example, if the petals of a flower overlap a leaf, then you must first completely sew on the leaf, and later the flower petals. When sewing pieces on the main fabric, it is desirable to arrange them so that the direction of the longitudinal threads of the pieces coincides with the direction of the longitudinal threads of the main fabric.
Having swept the colored pieces, the fabric is tucked into the hoop and stitched with a straight line along the lines of the pattern. Excess fabric is cut according to the pattern, after which the cut edges of the sewn pieces of fabric are processed with a ZZOS stitch.
When the entire drawing is sheathed with ZZOS, additional internal lines are made, for example, thin veins near the leaflet, etc.
satin stitch embroidery(Fig. 39)
When embroidering with satin stitch, it is necessary to combine two movements
hoop: one - to form a stitch of the desired length, the other - to move along the lines of the pattern. Moving the hoop to form a stitch must be done along the window of the embroidery attachment. Otherwise, the needle may hit the edge of the needle window. since when moving the hoop, it is possible to bend it with a stretched thread. Such techniques are used when embroidering with white and shadow stitch.
When embroidering with loose satin stitch, it is necessary to make circular movements of the hoop to form a stitch, combining them with the movement of the hoop across the pattern field. Each time it should be remembered that the hoop should be moved only with the needle in the upper position.
Reduced short description some embroidery techniques can only be the basis for mastering the technique of embroidery. Full mastery of various embroidery techniques is achieved only as a result of long practice and skill.
8. Darn.
Darning is close to embroidery in its execution, so preparing the machine for darning is no different from preparing it for embroidery.
The material to be darned is tucked into the hoop and stretched taut. Rough edges of the treated area are cut with scissors. With the son-in-law, the hoop is brought under the needle and, holding the end of the needle thread, the needle is pricked into the material. Pulling the upper thread, pull the lower bobbin thread up. Holding both ends of the threads, they begin to sew, advancing the hoop by hand, first in one direction, and then, fixing the resulting rope on the opposite side, and in the other.
In this way, you should sew until the entire area to be treated is covered with nearby ropes next to each other.
After that, turn the hoop a quarter of a turn and continue sewing until the entire area to be treated is sewn in the transverse direction (Fig. 40).
VI. CARE OF THE SEWING MACHINE
1. Machine lubrication
To ensure easy running of the machine and to prevent wear of rubbing parts during operation, all places of the machine indicated by arrows in fig. 41, 42, and 43 and painted red on the machine should be lubricated regularly. If the machine is constantly running, then lubrication should be done daily with one or two drops of clean engine oil in each place.
Lubricate the machine in the following order:
a) having unscrewed the top cover fastening screw 21, remove it and lubricate the machine mechanisms in the places indicated by the arrows in fig. 41.1. If the thread winder is located on the top cover, it should be remembered that when removing the top cover, the handle of the thread winder 32 must be turned to the right. Lubricants are made at the location indicated in fig. 42.
b) pressing the button of the lower cover with the finger of the left hand, put the machine on its side with the right hand. Open the cover and lubricate the machine mechanisms in the places indicated by the arrows in fig. 43;
i) turning the handwheel of the machine towards you, put the needle in the upper position. Pull out the sliding cover and, pressing the hook holder spring with your finger, open the holder post and drip one or two drops of engine oil onto the hook rim.
When lubricating, care must be taken to ensure that oil does not get on the drive belt and rubber parts. Excessive lubrication does not improve the performance of the machine, as the oil spreads over the parts and becomes contaminated with dust. Contact with such contaminated oil on rubbing parts will lead to rapid wear of the machine.
After 200 - 250 hours of operation of the machine, it is necessary to change the oil in the gearbox housing. For this, you need to unscrew the screw from the drain hole, drain the used oil from the gearbox and pour 5-6 grams of fresh engine oil into it (about half a grease can). After tightening the drain screw, let the car idle for 3-5 minutes, then drain the oil again and pour 5-6 grams of engine oil into the crankcase again.
If the machine long time was inactive, then before its lubrication, it is necessary to remove the old thickened oil. To do this, put two or three drops of pure kerosene into all lubrication points. Then turn the handwheel of the machine several times by hand, wipe off the kerosene with a clean dry cloth and lubricate the mechanisms with clean machine oil.
2. Machine cleaning
Every 40-50 working hours, the machine should be read in all accessible places from dust, thread breaks and leaked oil.
Particular attention should be paid to cleaning the mechanisms shown in fig. 44. To do this, remove the sewing foot, unscrew the needle plate screw and remove it. Then open the hook holder and take out the hook. After that, carefully clean all places from dust, which is deposited mainly on the feed dog and in the hook. After cleaning, it is necessary to lubricate the machine, as mentioned above.
3. Motor maintenance.
During the operation of the sewing machine, the commutator brushes of the motor must be replaced after about 2000 hours of operation of the motor.
When changing the brushes, the electric motor is removed from the machine body. For this purpose, the motor mounting bolt 30 is unscrewed, the belt is removed from the pulley and, having disconnected the wires, the motor is removed.
VII. POSSIBLE FAULTS IN THE SEWING MACHINE AND THEIR ELIMINATIONS.
Fault table.
| Malfunction | Cause | elimination |
| Needle breakage | The needle has hit the needle plate. | Replace needle. |
| The use of a thin needle when sewing hard and thick fabrics. | Insert a thicker needle, according to the table "needle - thread - fabric" | |
| Incorrect presser foot position (needle strikes the presser foot). | Set the presser foot correctly and fasten well with the screw. | |
| During sewing, the fabric was picked up by hand. | The fabric only needs to be guided and never pulled. | |
| Lower thread break. | Wrong hook threading. | Correctly thread the hook. |
| The bobbin thread tension is too high. | Correctly adjust the tension in the hook. | |
| Broken upper thread. | The thread has knots or uneven thickness. | Replace thread. |
| Upper thread tension is too tight. | Adjust correctly with the upper thread tension dial. | |
| The thickness of the needle does not match the thickness of the thread. | Choose the right needle - thread - fabric. | |
| The eye of the needle has sharp edges or the tip of the needle has a burr. | Replace needle. | |
| The needle is not inserted correctly. | Insert the needle correctly. The needle is inserted all the way up, flattened away from itself. | |
| The upper thread is not threaded correctly. | Perform correct threading. | |
| The machine does not advance the fabric well. | There is lint, lint, dirt, etc. accumulated between the needle plate and the feed dog. | Remove the needle plate and clean the feed dog. |
| Presser foot pressure is too strong or too weak. | Adjust the presser foot pressure on the fabric. | |
| The fabric does not advance. | The stitch length dial is at zero. | Set the desired position of the stitch length dial. |
| The cloth feeder is down. | Raise the cloth feed. | |
| Heavy driving. | The drive belt is too tight. | Loosen the drive belt tension. |
| The car is dirty. | Put 2 - 3 drops of kerosene into all lubrication points, rotate the machine, and then lubricate. | |
| Belt slippage. | Weak belt tension. | Increase the tension on the drive belt. |
| Oil on the drive belt. | Clean the drive belt from grease. | |
| Handwheel or thread take-up rubbing against the top cover. | Incorrect setting of the top cover. | Remove knocking or friction by moving the cover. |
The main mechanisms and details of the Tula sewing machine.
1. The mechanism for adjusting the width of the zigzag stitch.
2. The mechanism for regulating the length of the stitch and changing the direction of movement.
3. Thread guide.
4. Bottom cover button.
5. Sliding cover.
6. Needle plate.
7. Presser foot screw.
8. Fabric presser rod (foot presser)
9. Needle screw.
10. Thread guide.
11. Thread guide.
12. Thread tension spring (compensation spring).
13. Thread take-up.
14. Thread guide.
15. The mechanism for changing the position of the line.
16. Upper thread tension regulator.
17. Safety cover.
18. Sewing foot.
19. Flywheel.
20. Reel rod.
21. Top cover fastening nut.
22. Top cover.
23. The lever of the fabric presser rod (foot presser.
24. Machine sleeve.
25. Fabric conveyor.
26. Machine platform.
27. Power wires (cords).
28. Pushbutton switch (local lighting).
29. Cover of the bobbin hatch.
30. Motor mounting bolt.
31. Needle bar with a needle.
Modern sewing machines have long been no longer similar to their antique counterparts either in appearance or in times of increased functionality. We present the rating of the best popular in 2018-2019. sewing machines for the home - according to customer and expert reviews.
The assortment presented in stores is so wide that when buying it is advisable to imagine in advance by what criteria the proposed models differ.
Criteria for choosing a good sewing machine
Control type can be mechanical, electromechanical and computer, depending on the method of constructing the line. Electromechanical, as a rule, are not too expensive and are intended for occasional home use, while electronic counterparts are more suitable for those who sew frequently (for example, to order). For the pros, it is better to choose a computer-controlled sewing machine, which often has an embroidery module.
Shuttle type represented by a vertical or horizontal shuttle, while last option most often characteristic of professional, complex models and creates much less noise.
Functionality sewing machine is determined by the number of possible operations, which includes a variety of types of stitches, and methods for making a buttonhole, and additional embroidery options.
Equipment each model directly depends on the previous criterion. V different models additional needles for fabrics of different weights, interchangeable presser feet, as well as tools for servicing the sewing machine may be included. It is desirable that the machine has a special compartment for storing all sewing accessories.
Which brand of sewing machine is best?
The undoubted leaders in the production of sewing machines are deservedly considered as European manufacturers - Bernina, Pfaff, Husqvarna and Asian firms Janome, Brother, Juki, Jaguar. The products of the American brand are also appreciated. Singer. At the same time, each company regularly improves its models, not yielding to competitors in assembly quality.
The most popular inexpensive sewing machines now are still models from a Japanese company. Janome(production is located in Japan, Taiwan and Thailand). The assortment of this company has many models for both beginner craftswomen and for infrequent home use, as well as professionals. Bribes a large number of positive feedback about the machines of this company - both from craftswomen, and from specialists and masters of service centers. On the heels of her popularity in Russia comes another Japanese company - Brother. For regular sewing, masters still recommend choosing from Janome - there are more metal parts in the design of these machines, they are more reliable.
Masters advise when buying to pay attention to the weight of the machine - the heavier, the more metal parts inside.
For home, for occasional use, you can choose between Janome and Brother - according to the principle - what you like and the availability of the necessary functions. Here, sometimes light weight can even be an advantage - it is easier to get it out and then return it to a storage place.
Concerning Singer- so in 1851 they put up for sale the first sewing machine in history (it cost $ 100), conquered the market and have been holding it for a century and a half. Time-tested quality. Deserves respect! (By the way, the Podolsk sewing machine, popular with our mothers and grandmothers, was produced at a factory that previously belonged to Singer).
But in the modern market, the Japanese are clearly leading (among household ones - Janome and Brother, among more professional models- Janome, Juki, Swiss Bernina). Among these manufacturers it is better to make a choice.
How to choose a sewing machine for home? How many articles on the Internet have been written with advice on how to choose the right sewing machine, and even on our website there is an article on choosing sewing machines, see Which sewing machine to buy. But after reading them, all the same, the question "What sewing machine better?" remains open. The problem is that it is impossible to give unambiguous advice. Cars are all good in their own way. And besides, it is very difficult to explain technical features sewing machine using terms such as differential, chain stitch, etc.
In essence, in short, all machines are good, and the most inexpensive mechanical sewing machines and electronic ones, and the most "fancy" ones are computer ones. The only question is what kind of sewing machine you need, how much you want to pay for it, what operations you will use and how much and what fabrics you will sew on it.
1. The design of the sewing machine is a decisive factor when buying
First of all, what they pay attention to is how the sewing machine looks externally. And even realizing that this cannot be the main criterion when choosing a sewing machine, nevertheless, often this criterion becomes decisive. Manufacturers of sewing machines, as well as other equipment, are well aware of this and are trying to make an attractive design for a sewing machine. Therefore, try not to succumb to emotions when choosing a sewing machine and first thoroughly study all the technical capabilities of the sewing machine from a consultant in the store. And only after that, if there is a choice among the same models in terms of parameters, choose the most beautiful one.
The second criterion, when choosing a sewing machine, may be its weight. This does not mean at all that light in weight is somehow worse than heavy machines. Not at all, and maybe even vice versa. Why would you overpay "extra" thousands of rubles for a typewriter, if you are going to sew only baby diapers on it, and even then, until he has grown up.
The low weight of the machine means that many of its components are made of particularly durable high-quality plastics. Due to this, its price is reduced, but at the same time endurance. And if you sew rough jeans on it, it is possible that one of the gears may break. But, if you use it strictly for its intended purpose and sew only those fabrics that are indicated in the instructions, then there will be no problems.
More complex and expensive models sewing machines also use non-metallic parts and their weight is quite decent, since there are a lot of additional nodes. Therefore, the weight of the machine is only a purely symbolic parameter. In any case, the machine must be treated with care and follow the operating instructions, despite the choice.
3. A folding table is more convenient than a removable one
Almost every sewing machine has a removable table. This facilitates many operations and simplifies access to the hook of the sewing machine. However, if there is a choice, then it is better choose a sewing machine with folding table. It is more convenient than a removable one, because it folds with just one click and does not interfere while sewing. In addition, legs, bobbins, etc., which jump out when it is removed, are often placed in a removable table. But you have to take it off often, especially when bottom thread needs to be constantly changed. But, for inexpensive sewing machines, the table, as a rule, is only removable.
4. Computer sewing machines are harder and more expensive to repair.
Computer machines would have seemed like real science fiction a couple of decades ago. What methods were not used to make a loop on the product. And on a computer sewing machine, this is done at the touch of a button. And you can make not only a straight loop, but even an eye loop, and of any size. In addition, there are several hundred types of stitches, a variety of operations, such as embroidering your name on fabric, automatic threading, etc.
Even there is an automatic control of the needle puncture force. You do not need to turn the machine by hand to sew a rough and thick seam, the automation also controls this process. At any, the slowest speed, the needle will have maximum force and will easily sew through a thick section.
The advantages of a computer machine are many, and if you decide to buy such a machine, then only competent store consultants will help you choose it. We only advise you to take the choice very carefully, since the price of such machines is "decent" and in the event of a breakdown, repairs will not be cheap. Of course, having bought such a machine, you should definitely follow the recommendations of the manufacturer.
5. A large number of lines is rarely used
The number of lines of a sewing machine is another psychological factor that influences the choice of a sewing machine. The first thing we talk about when describing a sewing machine is how many types of stitches it does. In fact, this is only a minor factor in importance. Pay attention to him when choosing a sewing machine, you need only last. In practice, as a rule, only a few types of straight stitches, a zigzag and a buttonhole operation are used.
6. The method of making the loop is a very important parameter
But the method of making a loop on a sewing machine is an important parameter. If you are going to sew clothes on a typewriter and make buttonholes on it, then you should not save money when choosing a sewing machine. It is better to buy a sewing machine that makes a buttonhole in automatic mode, which has a special foot included. That is, put a fabric under the foot, turn on the buttonhole execution mode and it will automatically “break through” the buttonhole and even make a bartack. It is very convenient and fast, however, some skill is required, the ability to adjust the tension of the line and the length of the stitch, as well as to select the pressure force of the foot on the fabric.
The most inexpensive machines perform a loop in manual mode, and a little more expensive in semi-automatic mode.
The vertical "oscillating" shuttle (1), one might say a classic shuttle, performs oscillatory movements during operation. This type of shuttle is, for example, in the sewing machine "Chaika", "Podolsk" and most of the old releases of sewing machines.
The horizontal hook (2) is the most common and convenient type of hook used for modern household machines. It can be seen through the transparent window on the needle plate. The bobbin is inserted from above and lies in it at a glance. You can always see how much thread is left. It is very convenient and easy to change the bobbin with thread. And most importantly, no bobbin case is required, as with other types of shuttle. The role of the bobbin case is performed by the "black plastic", into which we insert the bobbin, or rather we put it in.
Sewing machine feet are usually hardly used and lie in a box with a set of feet for years. Basically, only the universal foot and the buttonhole foot are used. But in vain, because any foot can give additional functions to your sewing machine and, most importantly, perform this or that operation with high quality.
If you plan to sew bedding, or insert zippers into clothes, work with leather, then choose a machine that has not one or two paws, but a whole set. In extreme cases, you can buy additional paws and accessories right there in the store. See Sewing machine feet.
9. Repair and spare parts
Perhaps the most important point that we rarely take into account when choosing a sewing machine is the possibility of repairing it in the event of a breakdown. The fact that a guarantee is given for a year or more is good, but what to do after the expiration of the warranty period, for example, after 5 years, if the machine breaks down? Even if you find a sewing machine repairman, this will not give you a guarantee that he will be able to repair it. Sometimes, after all, it is necessary to replace parts or the engine, drive belt or shuttle mechanism. And they are no longer for sale. Ask the sellers if there are service centers in your city that serve this particular model of the sewing machine. In some cases, you can even buy a "reserve" bobbin case or plastic shuttle if they are commercially available.
In a word, before making a choice of a sewing machine, especially an expensive model, consider many factors. And if the question how to choose a sewing machine you will act responsibly, and your choice of car will not be accidental, it will serve you flawlessly for many years.
What are the types of sewing machines, and what type of sewing machine to choose so that you can sew any fabric on it.
When choosing an overlock, pay attention to some "little things". For example, is it convenient to insert the thread into the loopers, are there spare knives included. Well, if spare loopers are attached, then this is just a godsend, not an overlock. Look through the instructions, if it is detailed and equipped with many images, then later it will be easier for you to use it. It is from such trifles that the answer to the question "How to choose a sewing machine or overlocker" is formed.
Before choosing a sewing machine, it is advisable to find on the Internet the instructions for the model you like and read it. Check out the prices offered in online stores at various models and brands, compare them. And, of course, find reviews on a sewing machine of a particular model, preferably made by professionals. This article provides just such an opinion of the master about sewing machines, economy class models of the Janome brand.
How to choose a used sewing machine? It is not necessary to buy a new sewing machine, you can buy a used one, but in good condition. In addition to Russian brands of sewing machines, you can choose a used Japanese original production machine (100 volts). An almost complete description of one of these Brother models is available in this article.
To have a complete picture of which sewing machine to choose, it is necessary to study the offers of sewing machines from various manufacturers. Perhaps, for the same amount, you can pick up a sewing machine with additional operations. Or will she have additional convenient fixtures, such as a folding table or a convenient stitch selector. This article gives a brief overview of Singer sewing machine models.
European and Japanese sewing machine manufacturers have long been known to everyone. These are such as Veritas, Pfaff, Husqvarna, Elna, Bernina. Japanese sewing machine brands are Janome, Juki, Brothers, Toyota and Jaguar. Known all over the world for more than 100 years, brands and brands of sewing machines are produced by Japan, Germany, Sweden, and the USA. Which sewing machine to buy? Which best brand sewing machines, which company and where should it be produced? In this article, we are trying to help you with simple tips.
Special industrial machines are designed for sewing leather. About what kind of household sewing machine you can sew leather at home.
In the headings of our site "Old models of sewing machines" we place instructions and descriptions for various models of sewing machines of the last century, old and not so, ours and foreign ones. This article is about the Tula sewing machine. It explains in detail the main features, advantages and disadvantages, as well as recommendations for operation.
The Tula sewing machine is considered the base model of this series. On the meringue of this machine, other models were also produced, such as Rzhev, Volga, Kharkov, etc. Outwardly and in terms of basic technical characteristics, they practically did not differ from the Tula sewing machine. Only the Rzhev sewing machine had a simpler device, did not have an electric drive and performed only a straight line.
The Tula sewing machine is a rather "advanced" model of a household sewing machine of the 50s of the last century. Not only does she have a built-in lamp, but she also has an electric drive, also neatly placed inside the case. 
But that's not all. The kit comes with an additional drive that can be easily connected to the machine - a manual drive. Apparently this was calculated for those regions where there were problems with electricity.
By the way, the device for winding the bobbin thread is on a manual drive. It is also extremely original and convenient.
And what is characteristic, both the drive and other components of this machine are made at a high technical level, especially this applies to the electric drive pedal. By the way, it is quite easy to connect it to another brand of sewing machine, for example, Seagull, etc. Keep this in mind if Tula's machine is idle and you need a pedal.
Shuttle device of the sewing machine Tula
bobbin case in standard form(with a tail) is not used by the Tula sewing machine. Instead, a complex shuttle device is installed, in which the front part of the shuttle is hinged, then the bobbin is inserted and the shuttle is closed.
This is a rather rare and unusual shuttle device, and it can be justified when the machine works well. But in the event of a failure, such a device is quite difficult to regulate, it is not very convenient to maintain and configure.
An ordinary swinging shuttle, like a Chaika sewing machine, although more primitive in design and capabilities, is easier to set up and more reliable to operate.
The main feature of the Tula sewing machine, in addition to the shuttle, can also be called a closed crankcase, in which the shuttle mechanism is located. It is constantly lubricated, which determines the little noise of this machine.
It is this and the above factors that determine the price of this machine. You can sell it only for a conditional price, often purely symbolic.
Models of sewing machines based on Tula
One of the advantages of these old models of sewing machines can be considered a large number of interchangeable sewing feet. All these feet are only included with the Tula, Tula (Model 1) and other zigzag sewing machines.
Before buying a sewing machine, it is advisable to study the characteristics and features of the main types of sewing machines.
What is the difference between a computerized sewing machine. Device and basic operations and types of lines.
In this article, the master will share his opinion on the Singer sewing machine models released in the early 90s.
When I was just starting to take my first steps in tailoring, my mother's Soviet "Seagull" became my first sewing machine. If anyone caught this time, probably remembers such models. Their main difference from today's household sewing machines is that they worked from a foot pedal. It was on the "Seagull" that I sewed my first dress, and from experience I can say that she sewed well, even now she is in working order.
Later I had to sew not only on domestic, but also on industrial equipment. I also sat down for various models of sewing machines from different manufacturers. And I have developed my own opinion on working on different equipment.
Unlike those times, today for "dummies" in stores there is an abundance of choice of sewing equipment. How to choose a good sewing machine for beginners from everything will be my article today. In fact, this is the most popular question among my students, so get ready for a very detailed article)
Today's sewing assistants have long been electric. And they are divided into electromechanical and electronic (computer). What kind of sewing machine to buy, start from your financial capabilities. But both have similar signs that I first of all advise you to pay attention to:
The machine should not immediately tear from its place, but make the line smoothly. The pedal of the sewing machine should be sensitive, respond to a light touch. Or there must be a speed controller.
The sewing machine should not make a stitch that would tighten the fabric. This applies to delicate fabrics. When buying, be sure to make a few test stitches on pieces of fabric. Also see how the machine makes stitches on different fabrics:
- on the lungs - chiffon, silk, organza
- on medium and heavy - coat fabric, denim, linen, cotton, leather
- on elastic - knitwear, stretch.
If you have the opportunity to test it in action before buying a sewing machine, I advise you to conduct a small experiment. Let the machine sew itself without your help and participation. Place a piece of fabric under the presser foot and watch it sew a straight stitch at a presser foot width from the edge of the fabric. To see it better, take the threads not to match the fabric, but in contrast.
On the example of such an experiment, you will immediately see what the line turned out to be. Namely, whether it goes to one of the sides, whether it goes at the same distance from the edge of the flap. If the line “leads” a little, then there is a defect in the assembly of the sewing machine and with its further use, you will have to contact the repairman to adjust the teeth on the needle plate. In some cases, this shortcoming cannot be corrected, and in the future with such a sewing machine you will have to make efforts to make the stitching even.
Look for a machine so that if it breaks down, you can repair it without problems. Spare parts and replacement parts must be sold in your city. Keep in mind that for expensive models, all components (paws, etc.) will also be expensive. Pay attention to the fastening of the foot. If it is unusual, check in advance where you can buy accessories for such a model.
If the model is unpopular or exclusive, then it may be a problem for you to replace the broken part. Or even it will be completely removed from production, and the issue of repair for you will never be resolved. Or the cost of repairs will be worth buying a new sewing machine.
Check with sewing machine repairmen in your city to find out which sewing machine is easiest for them to repair. For which models of sewing machines they have experience, for example, Janome, New Home - they take it for repairs much easier.
Stitch length settings are available on all machines. Choose a product with a stitch length regulator up to 5 mm. It would be best if the assistant is equipped with a zigzag stitch width adjustment function.
In order to easily get to the most difficult places in clothes on a sewing machine, it must have a sleeve platform. How can I find out if it has such a device? To do this, remove the compartment from the sewing machine, which is usually located under the needle plate. Now you can easily do the processing of the bottom of the sleeves, trousers, as well as armholes, necklines.
When buying, pay attention that there is a ruler on the needle plate of the sewing machine, which will allow you to make a line exactly for the amount of allowance that you laid down when cutting. An example in the photo - I sew a line retreating from the edge by 1 cm. The edge of the fabric on the right is located at division 1.0. This device greatly facilitates the sewing process and speeds it up at times!
Tip 8. What sewing operations are really needed for work
For yourself, you must decide which sewing features your machine should have - which you cannot do without. If you plan to sew simple things at home and do minor repairs to clothes, then a machine is quite suitable for you. with core functionality:
- Straight line. You need to choose a sewing machine that makes a perfectly straight line.
- Zigzag stitch. It is needed to process open sections of tissue in order to prevent it from shedding. Please note that the machine has the ability to adjust the width of the zigzag.
In addition to these two basic stitches, you may also find useful sewing stitches such as:
Elastic zigzag for sewing on elastic
Stretch stitching for knitwear
Reinforced straight stitch
Reinforced zigzag
Overlock line, if you do not plan to pay for the machine - overlock
Blind hem stitch
Elastic stitching for an invisible hem
- Buttonhole processing function. With automatic mode, or semi-automatic - depends on your financial capabilities. You can perform a loop qualitatively in both modes.
- Reverse function (reverse). It is necessary to make bartacks at the end of the line.
If you are on a tight budget, buy a sewing machine. That can be considered additional functions in the machine, which will also make your work easier:
- Presser foot pressure regulator. It will come in handy when you will sew fabrics of different thickness: chiffon or drape. There is a manual regulator - this is a disk or screw and electronic on computer machines.
- Dot fastening. Useful for not tying a knot every time you finish a stitch.
- Decorative stitches. Needed when laying on clothes different kind finishing lines.
When buying, please note that the following items are included in the package of the sewing machine:
- foot for sewing on a regular zipper (single-legged)
- hidden zipper foot
- teflon foot for working with leather
- roller hemming foot
- paws for assembly
- Bias binding foot
- Oil for lubrication
Don't be discouraged if some parts are missing. You can always buy the missing paws and needles. In addition, you may not need some additional details in your work.
Advice 9. Which machine is better to choose a computer or electromechanical
If there is a computer unit on the sewing machine, but at the same time it makes ugly straight lines, then of course this is a reason to think. In favor of electromechanical, but at the same time better in work. Therefore, before buying, be sure to check the product in operation: the line should not be wagging, all stitches should be the same length and not tighten the fabric when sewing.
If you still choose a computer sewing machine, then you will need to handle it very carefully. Do not use it continuously for a long time. For example, for industrial purposes, for the studio. The computer unit has an unpleasant property to overheat and subsequently fail.
Tip 10. How to choose a sewing machine with an overlock function
The overlock function in sewing machines has recently appeared. This is a two-in-one model: a classic sewing machine and an overcasting machine (overlock). But do not rush to rejoice if you decide to save money on buying an overlocker for your home. Because the two-in-one model only makes an imitation of an overlock stitch.
Outwardly, the stitch will look like an overlock stitch, but in terms of quality it clearly does not pull on the original. The strength is not the same. In fact, an overlock sewing machine is just a type of zigzag stitch.
Of course, two-in-one models will cost double the price. Is it worth it to pay extra for a separate stitch? If you sew for yourself and do not work for clients who care about the inside of clothes, then a classic machine with a zigzag function will be enough for you.
Well, if you are a perfectionist and love a beautiful inside out, it’s better to save up for a separate overlock and don’t spend money on a sewing machine with an overlock function.
Tip>>> How to save money on buying an overlocker? Buy overcasting foot for a sewing machine. Or look at the tool compartment from the sewing machine, maybe you already have it in your kit. It will make the zigzag seam more neat than with a regular foot, especially when sewing delicate fabrics and knitwear. The edge will not twist and pull together, as is usually the case with overcasting. It also helps to produce high quality finishing stitches, such as double parallel stitches on jeans. It is especially useful for beginners in sewing, when you are just learning how to make even stitches on fabric. Where to buy such a paw? I saw her in the open spaces of Aliexpress, she is also in sewing equipment stores.
Tip 11. What type of bottom threading machine to choose
Which shuttle is better to choose, with horizontal filling or vertical? By making it possible to choose, sewing machine manufacturers have made it difficult for a beginner to buy. The seller can tell you that you can take any, yet there is a difference, and now I will share with you exactly what. Machines with a horizontal shuttle are more functional, they have more lines used in work. And the vertical shuttle is more reliable, it breaks and fails less often. In addition, you should proceed from your needs, if you plan to sew thick heavy coat fabrics, then a vertical hook is best suited for these purposes.
Tip 12. What is the difference between a household sewing machine and an industrial one
These are two large groups on which you can subdivide all sewing equipment. The answer in the main difference between a household machine and an industrial one lies in the name itself. A household machine will not pull the amount of work and complexity that an industrial model can handle.
But the industrial machine does only one operation. While household combines many functions: straight line, zigzag, loop processing mode. But at the same time, the industrial one will make hundreds of thousands of stitches in a day and will not overheat. Durability and reliability of industrial machine parts is designed for decades of use.
A sewing machine for beginners must be selected from the group of household machines. The reason for this is the high speed industrial equipment. If you're just learning to sew, you might not be able to handle a sewing machine that does 5,000 stitches per minute. The main danger in working with an industrial machine for beginners is injury. You can easily flash your fingers.
In addition, an industrial machine will be too noisy for a home. Based on prices, household sewing machines are more budgetary and it is better for beginners to start learning to sew with them.
Tip 13. Which sewing machine company to choose for beginners
Sometimes it happens that different manufacturers produce machines of the same quality and set of functions. But these items can vary greatly in price. Therefore, in order not to overpay for a brand, choose sewing machines according to the “price-quality” ratio.
pfaff,Husqvarna- rather expensive models. If the machine is exclusive, repairs will cost you a pretty penny
Brother- according to reviews, it has an uncontrolled pedal, makes poor-quality lines
Janome- the most optimal balance "price - quality". According to reviews from customers and my students, it has the highest ratings.
Astralux- according to reviews on this machine, it is impossible to achieve high-quality stitching on thin fabrics. It also does not have a very high speed in operation.
Nowadays, it is not a problem to buy a sewing machine. Now you can compare products at prices in different stores. There are several ways to get yourself a home assistant.
Method 1. Internet. Many large hardware stores have websites, you can go to the website of such a company and view the offers of online stores. Do not worry that you will not be able to test the machine in action. Such stores have a warranty period during which you can return the sewing machine.
Method 2. through specialized shops. In any major city there are shops selling sewing equipment. You can find them through the application Double GIS. In the column field of activity, type “sewing equipment” and organizations involved in the sale of household (industrial) sewing machines will come out.
In such stores, specialists and craftsmen work to help make right choice according to your experience. They also give advice on the operation and maintenance of the machine.
Method 3. If you have limited budget, then you can buy an inexpensive sewing machine on Avito. There, a used sewing machine can be bought for half the price than in stores. To reduce the risk of buying a pig in a poke, bring someone with you to the deal who has experience with sewing equipment.
Very frequently asked question for those who choose sewing machines - And why are some models expensive, although with the same characteristics, machines from another brand are half the price? Will it be better to make stitches with a machine, the one that is more expensive? Here, first of all, you need to pay attention to the following points:
- Internal content. Different manufacturers have different requirements regarding the quality of parts. Cheap appliances may be equipped with plastic parts, while a more expensive brand may have special quality control at the factory.
- Even if at first glance you are faced with the same machines in terms of their functions, they can do this in completely different ways. One manufacturer can seriously invest in the development of models, speeding up the process, using the latest developments in technology. And the other is to do everything the old fashioned way, which of course will affect the low cost.
- Advertising. It is no secret that some manufacturers invest in the price of sewing machines their advertising and product packaging costs. After all, in order to talk about it, you need to talk about it, right)
And finally, I can say with a well-known proverb that a miser pays twice. This also applies to sewing equipment. If you plan to use your assistant daily for a long time, then it is better to take a quality one with a good filling. Otherwise, you risk spending twice as much on repairs and components. Also plan to purchase from an authorized dealer with support, this means that you will not be abandoned when it breaks down or with spare parts.
What sewing machine do I use now?
I have a typewriter on my desktop. family. This is the most common inexpensive sewing machine with a minimum set of functions. From experience I can say that I use only two lines on it - a straight line and a buttonhole mode. For work - no more. Of course, if you do not embroider patchwork quilts or do patchwork. I have been sewing on it for ten years and proper care such an assistant will serve you just as long.
I also have another sewing machine -. I use it for overcasting the edges of clothes and when sewing knitwear.
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