Do-it-yourself janome372g electromechanical sewing machine repair. Malfunctions, malfunctions of sewing machines

Professional repair sewing machines Janome in Moscow and the Moscow region.
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Janome sewing machines are truly Japanese quality and are distinguished by their durability and unpretentiousness in work. All this is guaranteed with proper care of the machine, but no matter how high-quality the sewing machine would be, this does not exclude the wear of the nodes over time. Sewing machines of any manufacturer require regular maintenance, cleaning and lubrication. Our experts will help you troubleshoot, set up Janome sewing machines quickly and efficiently. Only we have preventive maintenance, cleaning and lubrication for free! (when performing basic repair work). Timely contacting us will allow you to avoid costly repairs in the future, since a malfunction in one unit will inevitably negatively affect the operation of other units of the sewing machine.

Repair and adjustment of Janome sewing machines We are profitable because:

Free travel around Moscow! The machine does not need to be taken anywhere - repairs are carried out at the customer's home or at the place of operation (for organizations).

Cleaning, lubrication of units and mechanisms of sewing machines involved in the performance of basic repair work is free of charge.

A guarantee is provided. Highly qualified specialists with extensive experience will solve the problem of any complexity in the shortest possible time.

Our service has the lowest prices for the repair of sewing machines, which can be found in the price list

Janome sewing machine repair cost:

At the first sign of a problem with your Janome sewing machine, do not delay repairs - this can lead to more serious and costly breakdowns with replacement parts. On the initial stage fixing the problems that have arisen and setting up the Janome sewing machine will cost you much less, because you can get by with minor repairs.

What are you going to fix in the sewing machine? With regards to products from the time of Stalin, nothing ... It still works. Modern breakdowns are tormented, a lot of settings go astray, requiring correction to get the desired result. We have nothing against progress, but a society preoccupied with consumption is considered by historians as an intermediate stage. Like a tax on bridges erected by medieval feudal lords to pay tribute to pedestrians. It got to insanity: structures were built out of the blue for profit. Poor-quality things are akin to ancient savagery, will become a thing of the past. Repairing sewing machines with your own hands is a pleasure to do! The weak half is strong in needlework when a strong helper is at home.

History of the sewing machine

In 1953, Clifford Simak's short story, The Ring Around the Sun, was published. The meaning of the plot: there are countless myriads of Earths in orbit, located in parallel universes. Events developed against the backdrop of the curious invention of the eternal light bulb. Then came the vechmobiles. Clifford described the fall of the consumer society, the goods were bought once, used for a lifetime, remember Stalin ... There was a revolution, the working people, afraid of losing their jobs, began to smash the modernized factories, the most interesting thing was built by people moving between dimensions. In a circle around the sun.

Until 1829, we will call the inventions of the sewing machine field unsuccessful, although Leonardo da Vinci created the first drawings that future generations would be equal to. During the era of manufactories, the French tailor Timonnier created a wooden model, which they immediately began to copy and multiply. One replaced several apprentices. There were mass demonstrations of artisans who saw a threat to existence (I wonder what the rulers will do, if scientists create a computer that makes decisions, knows how to grimace, they will immediately destroy it?). The matter went far: 200 local tailors destroyed the workshop of new mechanical sewing machines, Timonier had to flee, fearing for the safety of his life. Not the first case: the inventor of the loom suffered a similar fate.

Surviving fruits of the technological revolution

During his life, Timonnier created a billion modifications of the sewing machine. Some technical solutions are still used by household, industrial modifications. 300 stitches every minute were made by machines, today's electrical models able to give out three times more. For 200 years! Frequency computer processors doubling every two to three years (after 2010 growth has declined). Timonier's sewing machine worked with silk and other delicate fabrics.

In parallel, in 1834, Walter Hunt invented a model with a shuttle, reminiscent of modern ones. By 1848, Elios Howe created the first sewing machine containing the features of the current ones. The cloth feeder appears. The sewing machine is equipped with a horizontal curved needle, makes 300 stitches per minute, replaces three tailors. The US workers rebelled and destroyed the workshop. The inventor had to flee, fearing for his life. The last stitch must have been done by Singer. Gave the needle a vertical movement by introducing modern look jagged strips pressed with a foot. In 1900, the Podolsk workshop was built, where 5,000 people worked by the October Revolution. Initially, Singer spare parts were brought from the USA, then they began to be manufactured in Russia.

Brother, Janome, Bernina, and other brands of sewing machines appeared. People are afraid of change, but change is inevitable. Revolutionaries slow down progress. Imagine if inventors stopped producing promising technologies. Humanity will continue to develop caves, trees instead of cities with multi-storey buildings.

Setting up the sewing machine

I immediately remembered modern economical light bulbs. I had a chance to talk with an old sewing machine, it became clear, probably, since the invention, the technology has retained the principle and settings. The quality of the parts was not the same. Although opened smooth surfaces(nanotechnology), created strong alloys. The main shaft with a crankshaft is introduced inside. Moving parts work from it sewing machine. Which, will be indicated below, affects the repair of manual sewing machines:

1. The needle is directly connected to the shaft. To ensure translational movement up and down, a crankshaft is carried out inside. The needle has an eye where the thread is threaded. When moving down, the fabric is pierced, the loop is captured by the shuttle moving in a circle, in one direction, in the other. For 1 revolution of the main shaft, it manages to run back and forth.
2. The shuttle is driven by a separate shaft connected to the main shaft by means of a knee. The phase of movement is regulated by a screw. You can rotate the auxiliary shaft relative to the main one. Synchronization of movement is achieved. Let's discuss the repair of the sewing machine shuttle.
3. The third component, which ensures the movement of the fabric along the seam in the right direction, is the toothed strips. Made of steel, they move like human legs when walking. They go down, go forward, go up, go back. There is one cycle per stitch.

It is important to correctly set the vertical position of the toothed bars. When the needle is pierced into the fabric, the upper edges of the teeth will be at the level of the sewing machine table.

Unlike other devices, toothed bars are driven by two shafts. One is responsible for horizontal movement, the other for vertical movement. The adjustment method is the same. A twisted screw on the axis of the corresponding shaft, changing the position of the segment relative to the phase of the main shaft. The correct setting of the toothed bars is achieved.

It is important to ensure correct position needle relative to the hook. Remember three landmarks to follow. Please note: regarding modern models, the old ones are arranged differently, and tuning is required once every hundred years (twice since the invention)!

1. In the lower position, the eye of the needle is 4 - 6 mm below the nose of the vertical hook.
2. The nose of the shuttle is compared with the edge of the needle - the distance of the upper edge of the hole-nose is 1 mm.
3. When the upper edge of the eye coincides with the lower edge of the shuttle nose, the latter should extend 1 mm beyond the needle.

Approximate landmarks, you can use, decorate the horizon, the need to repair sewing machines with your own hands.

A wise mother instructs her daughter correctly

What is regulated in sewing machines

Repairing a sewing machine electric drive is not the only thing you can do. The heel pressure is adjustable so that the fabric stops crawling. It is made with a special screw. There is a spring inside, so the setting can be approximate, it will rarely be required. Regarding the said length of stitches. For thin fabrics, more frequent ones are recommended, for thick fabrics - rare ones. In mechanical machines, the reverse is often turned on with the handle, it is inconvenient when you need to sew a patch, it is better to forget about the inscriptions altogether.

It is much more important to correctly set the tension of the lower and upper threads. If done incorrectly, a number of unpleasant effects will occur when using a sewing machine:

1. With loose tension upper thread there will be loops at the bottom of the seam. being corrected special mechanism adjustments until the result is satisfactory. You can loosen the bobbin thread with the bobbin screw. It is important to know: too little tension is not allowed - the seam will not work at all - too strong - the thread may break. The last two cases are malfunctions, take note.
2. Pull the upper thread too tight and the fabric will begin to pull. Seen by jagged, billowing edges. You can let go of the top thread, tighten the bottom thread. Please note: do not be too zealous. The pulled thread breaks, as mentioned above.

Ideally, the interweaving of two threads occurs inside the material. When the needle rises from the bottom position, the eyelet is caught by the hook. A turn is made, an interlacing is formed. The needle rises, tightening the stitch. If the thread is not inserted correctly, it breaks. YouTube shows a video: a serviceable sewing machine was taken for repair, the master did nothing, took 1000 rubles, returned the product. Then the situation came out, dissatisfied customers disturbed the guru. The money was returned, accompanied by small verbal parting words.

A dull, thin needle will cause skipped stitches. The thread number corresponds to the needle number. In modern sewing machines, one feature that needs to be considered. For each needle, a guide stop was placed under the surface of the table, preventing the tip from moving to the side. The distance to it is greater, the thicker the fabric. Unfortunately, we can not give any signs of a malfunction, just keep in mind: a similar setting has been noticed. Repair of the foot sewing machine has a feature: the drive is switched on remotely. Except for the button, there is little difference. Repairing the pedal of a sewing machine is more akin to carpentry, soldering art.

Once a week, I always get a call and a completely upset girl's voice informs me that the freshly bought machine has completely broken down and does not want to sew.

1. The most common "problem" - the car suddenly starts to wind strongly. From below, loops 2 centimeters long are formed, they are wound on a shuttle and everything gets terribly tangled. Simple logic tells the young lady that, since the loops are from below, then there is a problem with the bottom thread. After that, there is advice on the Internet about adjusting the lower thread and the winged fairy spins the bobbin case, the parts are scattered on the floor, and a sobbing, trembling voice is heard in my receiver.

If the bobbin case did not unwind, then the situation can be easily saved. All you need is fill the top a thread.

The trouble is that in many instructions the procedure for threading the upper thread into the thread take-up is not very clearly described. General principle fillings are easiest to understand on the page from the instructions for Pfaff 1142:

The most important thing here is to raise the presser foot, turn the handwheel so that the thread take-up is in the up position and thread the thread into the thread take-up.

If the machine still makes giant loops on the wrong side, check the threading again. More than once I met ladies who swore by all the treasures of the world that everything was threaded correctly, that she had been sewing for a hundred years and could not make a mistake, and upon arrival, our specialist found that the thread did not get into the thread take-up. After that, the ladies turned very red in the face, apologized very much and shoved a hundred rubles for the trouble.

Proper threading can cut off 99% of cases of strong winding on the wrong side. The remaining percentage may indeed be due to a malfunction of the machine. Usually this effect is caused by burrs on the needle plate or in the hook, and this problem is best addressed to a qualified mechanic.

2. The second "problem" often occurs with buyers of the Janome MyExcel w23u machine. The symptoms of a breakdown are as follows - the LED does not light up and the needle lift button does not work.

Such a “malfunction” is treated very simply - it is necessary to transfer the bobbin winder axis to the left position.

Another one is connected to the winder frequently asked question Why doesn't the bobbin snap off when it's finished winding? Having got used to such behavior of the winder on the "Seagull", the buyer waits for a click and presses the pedal with all his might. However, in most modern machines, the bobbin does not come loose. As it winds, the speed of rotation simply slows down and the winder stops.

3. Often, owners of Janome 7518a (1221, etc.) machines turn to us with the question “Why is the machine sewing slowly and growling loudly?”.

These cars have a switch on the pedal that limits the maximum speed. You can accidentally press it with your foot and not notice it. If the car growls at you, just check the position of this switch.

4. If the stitching is “loose”, there is no tension on the upper thread, pronounced loops are visible from the inside, and the lower thread is taut with a string - rethread the machine with the foot raised. Perhaps the thread did not get into the tensioner plates. Another reason is that a piece of thread or other debris has got into the tensioner plates and prevents them from getting closer. With the presser foot raised, try to clean the space between the plates with a thick thread.

If the bobbin thread tension is lost, check for debris under the tension spring on the bobbin case (bobbin holder). Do not attempt to clean under this plate with a needle or other metal object. Scratch the shuttle - you are tormented to repair. Better take a toothpick.

5. I have two favorite questions - why the stitch is herringbone and why you can see the "dots" from the upper thread. There is only one answer to these questions - you need to use threads of the appropriate thickness.

I like the seams on my shirts. Smooth, straight, just admire. Now you can see what kind of thread a good men's shirt is sewn with and compare their thickness with the "magpie" from the store. It turns out that the threads on the shirt are twice as thin. At the same time, the shirt fabric is not the thinnest yet. The problem is that on sale it is very difficult to find high-quality threads with a thickness less than #50. On suit fabrics and with a stitch length of 3 millimeters, the "magpie" gives the perfect stitch on almost any machine. And if you try to sew thin silk with a needle No. 90, threads No. 40 and stitches 1.5 mm long, the “Christmas tree” will appear in all its glory, regardless of the design of the shuttle.

The “herringbone” must be on any lockstitch machine, since the upper and lower threads are intertwined with a “cord”. It is enough to mentally remove the fabric from the seam and imagine how the threads are intertwined, it becomes obvious where the “herringbone” comes from. The herringbone becomes almost invisible if the weave of threads is formed deep between the layers of the fabric, and for this the thread should be no thicker than the warp thread. Also, the visibility of the Christmas tree is affected by the length of the stitch. It is possible (on industrial machines) to reduce the visibility of the herringbone with front side, if you turn the needle a little around its axis, but then on the wrong side of the "tree" will become more noticeable.

6. Pulling of the fabric when sewing zigzag and decorative stitches is also not a malfunction. It is impossible to cancel the laws of physics, and if you try to perform a wide zig-zag “magpie” on a thin and loose fabric, then only an adhesive stabilizer will help to avoid contraction. You can, of course, try to loosen the tension of both threads and take thinner threads, but the radical way is a stabilizer.

7. Knocking when sewing at the moment of a puncture is in most cases caused by a dull or inappropriate needle. The correct choice of needles is especially important when sewing from dense fabrics. A universal needle with a rounded point cannot part the tightly interwoven fibers of the material, and punches a hole with a thud. For such fabrics, it is necessary to have in stock sharp needles marked Jeans and Microtex. After replacing the needle, the knock, in most cases, disappears.

8. Another "problem" that buyers regularly encounter is the lack of a buttonhole foot in the kit. Finding it is easy - it lies separately from the main set of paws, in a removable table under a hinged lid. Janome overlockers often "lose" the converter for double-thread seams. It is poorly packaged in a bag, separate from other personal belongings, and hangs on a pin for installing coils.
Husqvarna Emerald computer machines sometimes lose an entire pedal! The manufacturer has provided for it a convenient place inside the case.

9. I also remembered the “problem” with turning off the teeth of the fabric conveyor. The teeth are perfectly turned off by the corresponding switch, they fall down, but they don’t want to come back, no matter how many times you click the buttons. The casket opens simply - the conveyor teeth will rise to the working position after a full turn of the flywheel. Just flip the switch back and start sewing.

If I remember something interesting, I'll add it here.

Difficult repair of sewing machines associated with the adjustment of components and mechanisms can only be performed by an experienced craftsman. But such repairs are rarely made, only when a part breaks down at the sewing machine and it needs to be replaced with subsequent adjustment.
Most often, the sewing machine begins to "be capricious" if the rules for its operation specified in the instructions are violated or if simple settings and adjustments are not observed.

The main reason leading to the failure of the sewing machine is sewing fabrics that are not intended for this model of the sewing machine. Hemming the double hem of jeans, changing the zipper in a leather jacket or bag, etc. - this is the main reason for the appearance of gaps in the stitch, thread breakage, needle breakage. Sometimes this can even lead to a breakdown of the sewing machine, followed by complex repairs associated with the replacement of parts.

The main part of the sewing machine is the needle

Oddly enough, but it is the needle that is the most important detail at the machine. During its "life" it makes thousands of tissue punctures and is not always light and thin, so sooner or later the point of the needle becomes dull, and the needle itself bends. And if at least once the needle "hits" the metal part of the body of the machine, then the tip will bend in the literal and figurative sense of the word.
However, are we paying attention to it? The needle seems to be intact, so everything is fine. But take a magnifying glass and look at its point, its blade will be bent to one side. How will such a point pierce the fabric? The only way is to break through it.

Now let's see how such a needle will form a stitch.
The thread passing in the eye of the needle will cling to the curved point, and "slow down", forming an excess of the upper thread in the stitch. Here is the first reason for the appearance of loops in the line. Moreover, a bent point will cause the thread to break periodically, especially in difficult areas for sewing, when the upper thread is stretched to the limit.

It turns out that sometimes the entire repair of a sewing machine consists only in replacing the needle.
Treat the needle with great care. Even if it outwardly does not have blade defects and is not bent, try to change them more often anyway.
Used needles do not need to be thrown away, as there are situations when needles break one after another, for example when sewing a leather bag. That's when you remember about the jar of old needles.

Another reason for setting up a sewing machine, especially old manual machines such as Singer or Podolsk, is the incorrect installation of the needle in the needle bar. The blade of the needle (Fig. B) should be on the side of the nose of the hook. Remove the needle plate and see if this is the case if the machine suddenly began to loop and tear the thread.

It often happens that a seamstress installs a needle from an industrial sewing machine into a household sewing machine. It is impossible to confuse a household needle with an industrial needle. The household needle has a special saw cut on the flask (Fig. B). But, nevertheless, it is precisely the industrial types of needles that are installed. This absolutely should not be done. Firstly, you violate the gap between the shuttle nose and the needle blade, hence the gaps in the stitches, and secondly, you risk damaging the sewing machine shuttle. Some industrial needles are noticeably longer than household needles and can touch the surface of the hook, scratch it, and even damage the hook.

Figure (A) shows a diagram of how to check the curvature of the needle. Outwardly, the needle cannot be determined whether it is curved or not, and if you put it on the glass (2), you can easily check the gap (1). Please note that an uneven, bent needle will cause gaps in the stitching and will break sooner or later.

In order for the sewing machine to work more “confidently” with fabrics that are difficult to sew, such as knitwear, stretch, thin natural and artificial leather, denim, needles are produced that are designed for sewing just such fabrics and materials. They have a special point shape and facilitate the passage of the thread in the fabric, almost eliminating gaps in the stitch and looping of the upper thread.
See Home sewing machine needles.

Thread looping in the line, as well as a characteristic knock during their work, is perhaps the main difference between zigzag sewing machines, such as Chaika, Podolskaya 142 of all models. In short, looping in the line occurs due to uneven thread tension along its path: a broken compensation spring, a rusty sole of the foot, the shuttle stroke is incorrectly set, etc. However, it is impossible to set many parameters on your own without experience. Therefore, if you have a poor-quality stitch, pay attention, first of all, to the condition of the needle, the tension of the lower thread in the bobbin case and whether the upper thread tensioner is working correctly. Very often, children love to disassemble and assemble it, and after such a repair, the machine stops working.

It is sometimes necessary to repair the Chaika sewing machine quite often, and this is not due to the breakdown of parts, the parts are just very strong, but with the misalignment of the interaction of some units of the sewing machine, mainly the shuttle.
Almost all of these tips for repairing a Chaika sewing machine can be used for other models of household machines.

First of all, check the nose of the shuttle with a magnifying glass, it should not have nicks, rusty spots. If there are notches, they must be removed with a fine file and polished to a shine, otherwise the thread will constantly linger behind the traces of the file, and loops will appear from below. Just do it carefully so as not to blunt the tip of the nose of the shuttle.

Sometimes the bobbin (the bottom thread is wound around it) can be the reason for repairing the sewing machine. Yes, it is repair, since an inexperienced "master" often disassembles and assembles all the nodes, when it is enough to simply replace the old metal bobbin with a new plastic one. If the edges of the metal bobbin are notched, and the bobbin case itself is clogged with thread lint, the lower thread will come out in jerks, and the upper thread in the line will periodically loop from below.

Often the reason for contacting a sewing machine repairman is that the upper thread is poorly adjusted. You tighten it almost completely, but the tension is still too weak. Look, perhaps, between the tensioner plates, thread linters have accumulated, which prevent the washers from fully compressing. The tensioner fastening (Seagull) may have loosened.

But still, most often for sewing machines such as Chaika, the parameters of the shuttle and the needle fail. This is a complex type of sewing machine repair, or rather settings, but for general information it is desirable to know main reason, because of which all the "troubles" of sewing machines occur.

Fixing the needle bar and tensioner

The most common cause of sewing machine failure is the top thread. Thread breakage, thread winding in the stitch, uneven stitching, gaps, etc. All this often depends on the upper thread tensioner.
It is the fastening of the tension regulator (Seagull) that most often causes its poor performance. The plastic case is pressed under the pressure of the screw and over time the tensioner begins to stagger, or even “falls out” of the case.

Adjusting the shuttle mechanism of sewing machines performing the zigzag stitch Chaika, Podolsk, Veritas and others involves setting the position of the looper nose above the eye of the needle by 1 ... 2 (3) mm at the moment the looper nose approaches the needle. This setting is checked when the sewing machine sews not only the straight stitch, but also the left and right needle points (when sewing the zigzag stitch).
The nose of the hook must simultaneously pass almost close to the blade of the needle - this is the second condition that allows you to form a stitch without gaps.

In this photo, the arrow indicates the fastening of the shuttle shaft. Loosen the screw with a 10 socket wrench, and holding the handwheel with your hand, you can turn the shaft (together with the shuttle), adjusting the position of the hook nose in relation to the needle.

However, this is not all the parameters for adjusting the interaction between the shuttle nose and the needle. There is such a parameter as the timeliness of the approach of the shuttle nose to the needle, namely at the moment the needle starts to rise up. The needle descends to the lowest point, and when it rises by 1.8-2.0 mm, it should meet with the nose of the shuttle, the shuttle removes the loop from the needle and wraps around itself.

But that's not all. For sewing machines that perform a zigzag stitch, there is such a thing as a right and left needle prick. With the left and right injection of the needle, the nose of the shuttle should "confidently" remove the loop formed above the eye of the needle. It should extend just above the eye of the needle, but less than the distance of the eye of the needle itself, approximately 1 mm.

The settings above can be used as a guide if you decide to repair your sewing machine yourself. As a rule, the machine will work fine with such gaps, but if you need to sew knitted fabrics that are too thin (silk) or, on the contrary, thickened fabrics, more precise adjustment of these parameters is required, which only the master can set.

Care and lubrication of the sewing machine

In many cases, sewing machine repairs will not be needed if the sewing machine is kept clean and lubricated periodically. If a seamstress takes care of her machine, then, therefore, she will protect it from overloading during work, not give it into "the wrong" hands, which means that the sewing machine will break down less often.

After a long period of work, clean the shuttle compartment and other accessible places from dust, lint, and oil stains. Periodically, the shuttle itself, the shuttle mechanism, should be cleaned with a hard hair brush. It is advisable to lubricate the machine at least once every six months, and after lubrication, work on it “idle” a little, especially if the machine is not in use long time. During operation, the oil heats up slightly and penetrates better into the nodes and friction points.

It is better to draw machine oil into a medical syringe and bury it in small drops in accessible places where there is friction of metal parts.

The big enemy of all mechanisms is dirt and rust, try to keep the car in a dry, cool place. If the machine will not be used for a long time, keep it away from dust, otherwise the dust oil will harden and the machine will turn hard or even jam. This case is discussed in the article

The site has a lot of articles on the repair of sewing machines. However, first of all, these articles are of an informative nature, intended not for amateur craftsmen, but for owners of sewing machines.
From them you will learn how this or that sewing machine is arranged, what breakdowns it can have if the operating instructions are not followed. And finally, how to perform a simple repair of a sewing machine with your own hands, if it is not possible to contact the workshop.

In this article, you will learn how the Janome sewing machine works. What is the difference between inexpensive models of Janome machines, what breakdowns do they have and whether it can be repaired on their own.

1. Janome sewing machine with oscillating shuttle

This model of Janome sewing machine has an oscillating hook type. Such a shuttle is used only by Janome, but also by other sewing machine manufacturers. These are cars of the initial price, which you can buy in the range of 4-5 thousand. They are quite reliable and "hardy", but there are limits to everything, and after that, when it was on this machine (photo) that they decided to hem several jeans at once, it ended up in our workshop.

Look at the photo. The arrows indicate the nose of the shuttle and the eye of the needle. You can see that when the hook nose approaches the needle, the eye of the needle is too high, and therefore no stitches are formed. This is a very common failure. In quotation marks because such a failure occurs when the operating rules of any sewing machine are not followed, and Janome is no exception. This is not even a breakdown, but a violation of the interaction parameters of the shuttle mechanism and the needle. It happens at the moment of excessive load. And the execution of the finishing line on the hem of jeans is just that case. The toothed belt connecting the upper and lower shaft "skips a tooth" and the machine stops making stitches, although it still works fine. Jeans are probably the biggest "enemy" of all sewing machine manufacturers. How much they undermine the image of any of them. After all, it is jeans that most often disable household sewing machines.

To understand why this happens, and why jeans cannot be hemmed on household sewing machines, count how many layers of fabric are formed at the roughest point (the junction of the seams). From 9 - to 12 layers. Take a needle and try to pierce such an area with a hand needle, it is unlikely to succeed. Only if the needle is hammered.

But let's get back to our Janome sewing machine and try to figure out how such a failure occurred and whether it can be fixed on our own.

Firstly, it must be said that if the machine stops forming stitches normally, gaps appear, the thread breaks, then look at how the shuttle nose interacts with the needle.
Detach the presser foot, needle plate. Lay the machine on its side and remove the upper part of the shuttle so that the hook remains in its grooves and is not skewed. Now gently turn the handwheel and bring the hook nose up to the needle. If you find such a "picture" as in this photo, then the cause of the malfunction is different and the machine does not need to be disassembled. The photo shows that the nose of the shuttle fits, as it should be, 1.5-2 mm above the eye of the needle. If the spout is below the ear or flush with it, then you will have to disassemble the body of the machine in order to have access to the node we need.

I do not recommend disassembling modern sewing machines. There is nothing complicated about this, but only for someone who knows how to do it right. In any other case, there is always a desire to use a nail puller. Well, like all the screws are unscrewed, but the case is not disconnected. Be careful, you can easily break not only the body mount, but also the necessary part of the sewing machine.

Each machine uses its own options for attaching halves of the body. First you need to carefully study them, find them. For example, several pieces may be located under the front cover, in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe upper thread tensioner, the shuttle mechanism (remove the needle plate).
Further, some of them "hide" under the plugs, which are easily removed with a knife blade. What else can you advise. Well, for example, for this model Janome does not need to remove the levers for switching types of stitches. By the way, do not forget about the reverse lever when you assemble the body back. In general, for a non-specialist it will be much more difficult not to disassemble it, but to assemble it, keep this in mind. Mark where and which screw was. And if you don’t have a single “extra” screw left, then you passed the attentiveness test by 5 points.

4. The device of the Janome sewing machine

If you are going to buy an inexpensive Janome sewing machine, you can look at these photos that demonstrate its design well. This will help you make the right choice.
In the next paragraph, you will find out the cause of the malfunction of this sewing machine.

If the copier is "dry", its grooves must be lubricated with grease.

Check the tension of the drive belt of the electric drive. If it is loose, slightly tighten it with the screws securing the motor to the housing. The belt must not be overtightened; when pressed with a finger, it should bend a little.

If your machine has "problems" with the tension of the upper thread, this knot is most likely the cause. Raise and lower the presser foot several times and check that this lever works correctly. It may need to be adjusted.

Behind the upper thread tensioner, there is a housing fixing screw. It is easy to unscrew, but not easy to put back. Put a screwdriver on the magnet for half an hour, and then it will be easier to install it.
The tensioner screws should not be unscrewed when removing the housing cover.

The cause of the malfunction was in this node, marked with an arrow. And it didn't take long to find out. Toothed beltconnecting the main shaft to the lower shaft, this model of the Janome sewing machine did not have. Instead, a crank mechanism was used. It is quite reliable and can withstand heavy loads, so the search for the cause of the failure was directed in the other direction.

However, later it turned out that during the hemming of jeans, the eccentric mounted on the main shaft and transmitting movement to the lower shaft shifted. As a result, without load, the parameters of the machine were normal, and when sewing, the line did not form. The fastening of this eccentric is inside (arrow).
After setting the correct parameters for the interaction of the needle and the nose of the shuttle and then tightening the fastening of the eccentric (screw), the breakdown was eliminated.

Sewing machines from Janome (Janome) have many various models designed for different categories of buyers. There is whole line economy-class sewing machines, affordable and designed for small tailoring and repairing clothes at home.