Repair of the sewing machine pfaff hobby 422. Top threading

PFAFF

Hobby 350 382 422

Manual

Safety instructions for working on domestic sewing machines according to IEC recommendation 335-2-28

a) When the machine is running, due to the continuous movement of the needle, special precautions should be taken and the sewing place should be constantly monitored
b) When leaving the machine unattended, when repairing, when replacing mechanical parts or accessories, disconnect the machine from the mains by removing the mains plug from the socket.
c) The maximum allowable power of the lighting lamp is 15 W.
d) The drive belt tension may only be adjusted by a PFAFF mechanic.

Controls and main components of the sewing machine

1 Thread take-up	15 Cloth presser lever
2 Thread guide	16 Winder tension regulator
3 Carrying handle	17 Stitch pattern setting window
4 Winder	18 Stitch pattern selection ring
5 Flywheel	19 Thread spool pin
6 Flywheel release	20 Zigzag width adjuster with setting window (model 422)
7 Back sewing key	21 Cover behind which the shuttle mechanism is located
8 Main switch	22 Presser foot holder with presser foot
9 Removable part of the machine platform with accessory box	23 Presser foot holder fixing screw
10 Cloth engine	24 Needle holder with fixing screw
11 Throat plate	25 Cloth presser bar
12 Thread cutter	26 Stitch pattern table
13 Thread slot	27 Stitch length dial
14 Upper thread tension dial

Getting Started

Preparation of bobbin thread.

	Preparing the bobbin case: To access the shuttle compartment, grab the platform from below sewing machine 9 and move its removable part to the left.
	Open cover 21 by turning downwards (toward yourself).
	Release latch S and remove the bobbin case. Attention. While the latch is in the pressed state, the bobbin will not fall out of the bobbin case.
	Release latch S and remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.
	Place the bobbin on the thread winder spindle. There is a special spring on the spindle, which must fall into the slot on the spool (bobbin).
	To bring the winding mechanism into working position, press the bobbin to the right to the stop S. Attention. Never completely loosen the stop screw.
	Switching off the sewing mechanism or switching the machine to idle: While holding flywheel 5, turn disk 7 forward (towards you) counterclockwise.
	Extend (raise) the spool holder 19 and put a spool of thread on it.

Winding thread on the bobbin:

Bring the thread from the spool into the winder tension regulator 16, draw it to the bobbin, pass it through the hole in the bobbin wall and hold the tip of the thread in your hand. Depress the foot starter pedal, after which the winder spindle will start to rotate. After winding a few turns, you can release the tip of the thread. Press the fully wound bobbin to the left, remove it from the spindle and cut the thread.

	Switching on the sewing mechanism: While holding the flywheel 5, turn the disk 6 back (away from you), clockwise.
	Loading the bobbin case: The wound bobbin S is inserted into the cap, the thread is passed into the notch T and, stretching under the spring, is passed through the notch U.
	Checking the lower thread tension: Lift the bobbin case by the end of the thread jerkily. With each jerk, the cap should drop slightly. (Turning the screw S to the left (counterclockwise) will decrease the thread tension, and turning it to the right will increase it.
	Installing the bobbin case: Release the latch T and put the cap on U spindle. The cap pin V must fit into the notch W. Attention.Insert the bobbin case until it clicks. There is a groove on the shuttle spindle and the latch must fit into this groove.

Threading the upper thread.

	Threading the upper thread: The needle and thread take-up (1) must be in the up position. Raise the sewing foot. Insert the thread into the thread guide 2, notch S, up through the slot T, into the hook of the take-up 1, then down through the notch T and pull through the right needle clamp thread guide U.
	Pass the tip of the upper thread from the front side through the eye of the needle.
	While holding the upper thread, turn the handwheel towards you until the needle moves down and up again. Pulling the top thread up bottom thread.
	The upper and lower threads are placed to the right (or left) under the foot.
	Close cover 21.
	The machine has a free arm for processing tubular (narrow) garments.
	Push on the removable part of the platform 9 (the guide pins must fit into the corresponding holes).

We start sewing.

	Place fabric under the sewing foot.
	Lower the sewing foot lift lever 15. Holding the upper and lower threads, make two or three stitches while turning the handwheel.
	We start the machine by pressing the foot on the starter pedal. The deeper the pedal is depressed, the faster the machine will sew.
	The manufacturer produces the machine with an adjusted upper thread tension regulator. Upper thread tension regulator 14. S = alignment mark

It's important to know!
To get good sewing results, you must:
1. Use only serviceable needles.
2. Work with correctly adjusted upper and lower thread tension.
3. Correspondence needle - thread - material is required.
The bobbin thread tension is correctly adjusted at the factory. If, as a result of checking the tension of the bobbin thread, an adjustment is required, then when performing it, it is allowed to turn the set (adjusting) screw only by the minimum amount.

Upper thread tension check:

The normal setting of the regulator is in the range 4-6.
The higher the number, the stronger the tension. The tension is checked when sewing with a wide zigzag stitch. The interlacing of threads should occur at the point of contact of the sewn fabrics.

Machine control

Stitch length dial 27:

Setting the stitch pattern

The stitch pattern is selected from table 26. The letter (A-R) corresponding to it, by turning the stitch pattern setting ring 18, is transferred to the box 17 under the S mark. The machine settings related to this pattern are shown in the box above the letter.
= stitch pattern
= setting the stitch length dial
= setting the zigzag stitch controller
= sewing foot

Table of working stitches.

Symbol		Line (stitch)	350	382	422
	A	Buttonhole symbols	*	*	*
	B	straight stitch Middle needle position	*	*	*
	BC	straight stitch Left needle position	*	*	*
	D	Zigzag stitch range	*	*	*
	E	Elastic seam	*	*	*
	F	Stretch blind stitch	*	*	*
	G	Narrow blind stitch	*	*	*
	H	Scalloped Overlock Stitch	*	*	*
	J	Stitch stitch	*	*	*
	K				*
	N	Fancy stitch			*
	O	Fancy stitch			*
	P	Fancy stitch			*
	R	Fancy stitch			*

Straight stitch sewing

Models 350 and 382:
Turn the stitch pattern selection knob 18 to move the letter B or C under the S mark.
The stitch length is set with the stitch length knob 27.
Model 422:
The mark B on the stitch pattern selection knob 18 is transferred under the mark S. After that, the zigzag stitch regulator 20 translates the number “0” for the left needle position or “5” for the middle needle position under the setting mark.

Stretch stitch (models 382 and 422)

To sew the stretch stitches shown in color, turn the stitch length dial 27 so that the word "Stretch" is placed under the T mark. "-".

Stretch stitch table.

Symbol		Line (stitch)	382	422
	B	Straight 3x stretch stitch with medium needle position	*	*
	BC	Straight 3x stretch stitch with left needle position	*	*
	D	Zigzag 3x stretch stitch	*	*
	E	honeycomb stitch	*	*
	F	Edge stitching, wide	*	*
	G	Edge stitching, narrow	*	*
	H	Overlock stitch	*	*
	J	Pullover stitch	*	*
	K	Feather stitch		*
	N	Stretch decorative stitch		*
	O	Stretch decorative stitch		*
	P	Stretch decorative stitch		*
	R	Stretch decorative stitch		*

Machine maintenance.

	Needle replacement(System 130/705 H): Remove the mains plug from the socket. Loosen screw S. Pull out the needle. Insert a new needle (flat back) into the needle holder as far as it will go. Tighten screw.
	Cloth Engine Overlap: Slide the embroidery plate over the needle plate and push it in. The three spikes should lock into the holes, T, U and V.
	Changing the sewing foot: Remove the mains plug from the socket. Press the red button S. The presser foot disengages.
	Setting the sewing foot: While lowering the presser foot lever, move the presser foot so that pin T locks into groove U.
	presser foot holder- device. Details V and W are used to secure the ruler. Screw X is used to secure the presser foot holder.

Sewing feet (standard set)

Sewing with a zigzag stitch

	Models 350 and 382(fig. U): Set the desired zigzag stitch width with the stitch pattern selector ring 18 in the W range under the setting mark S. The D sign corresponds to the largest zigzag stitch width. Ring switching in this range occurs with a click.
	Model 422(Fig. V): The letter D is set under the S mark, and the stitch width is set with the zigzag stitch adjustment knob under the T mark. The largest width of the zigzag stitch corresponds to the “5” mark.

Quilting

Sewing foot: normal foot A or transparent foot B and guide bar (special accessory)
Stitch: straight stitch B
The S guide can be used with almost all presser feet.
Ruler holder (special accessories):
Insert ruler S into hole T and fasten with screw U. Depending on the purpose of use, the ruler can be set at the required distance from the presser foot.
Using the guide bar makes it easier to sew parallel or piping stitches. In this case, the ruler is directed along the edge of the material (Fig. V) or the previously laid line (Fig. W). Thanks to this, the seams are uniform and neat.

Elastic blind stitch:

Sewing foot: Blindstitch foot G
Thread tension: upper thread tension is slightly loosened
Threads: regular sewing threads
Stitch: Stretch Blind Stitch F
Stitch length: 3-4
Needle: No. 70 or 80

Adjustment of the place of piercing by a needle of fabric
Place the prepared edge of the fabric under the blind stitch foot so that the fold of the upper layer rests against the stop T of the blind stitch foot. With the adjusting screw S, shift the stop T to the left so that the needle captures upper layer with only one thread (fig. U and V). Sew a test stitch on the remaining piece of fabric first.

Buttonholes

Sewing foot: Transparent foot B
Thread tension: Slightly loosen the upper thread tension
Threads: fine machine embroidery threads
Stitch length: Set the dial to the range of stitches for buttonholes
Needle: No. 70-80
1. Set the stitch selection ring 18 to A1 and baste the first side of the buttonhole. Move the needle to the up position.
2. Set stitch pattern selection ring 18 to 2A4 and sew 4-6 reinforcement stitches. Move the needle to the up position.
3. Set the stitch pattern selector ring 18 to A3 and baste the second side of the buttonhole with the same length as the first.
Move the needle to the up position.
4. Set the stitch pattern selection ring 18 to 2A4 and sew 4-6 reinforcement stitches. Move the needle to the up position.
5. Set the stitch selection ring 18 on models 350, 382 to mark C, and on model 422 to mark B.
On model 422, additionally set the zigzag adjuster knob 20 to 0. Then sew a few reinforcement stitches.
6. Carefully cut through the sewn buttonhole with a seam ripper (special accessory).

Sewing on buttons

Sewing foot: no foot or transparent foot B
Stitch pattern: C on models 350 and 382 D on model 422
Fabric feed: covered with embroidery plate
Threads: fine sewing thread

Place the button on the pre-marked place, move it under the foot holder and lower it. In models 350 and 382, ​​the stitch pattern selection ring 18 is set to “C”, and in model 422 to “D”. In model 422, additionally set the zigzag stitch regulator 20 to the “0” mark. After that, lower the needle into the left hole of the button, raise the needle to the upper position and lower it again (not completely). Then, in models 350/382, using the stitch pattern selection ring 18, and on model 422, move the needle until it enters the right hole of the button with the zigzag dial 20. Now sew 6-8 overlapping stitches and a few stitches in the left hole of the button (fig. S).

Sewing on buttons with a stand (for large buttons and thick fabrics). Insert the needle into the left hole of the button. Place a match under the foot in the middle of the button. Lower the presser foot (fig. T). Sew a few overlapping stitches and leave thread ends about 15 cm long. Pass the upper and bobbin threads through the hole of the button (fig. U). Wrap the threads around the post and tie them in a knot (fig. V).

Sewing in a zipper

Sewing foot: Zipper foot E
Stitch length: 2-3
Stitch: straight stitch, middle stitch position
Threads: sewing thread
Fastening the zipper foot: Hook the foot with the rear cross pin onto the shank of the holder W and press the foot slide upwards so that the front pin X is fixed. The foot can be moved in the transverse direction to the right, left (fig. S) or middle position.

Hidden zipper stitching:

Take lightning. Move the foot all the way to the left. Place the opened zipper under the presser foot so that the teeth of the fastener can move along the right guide ledge of the slide of the presser foot (fig. T). Sew a topstitch at the desired width up to about half the length of the fastener. Leaving the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the fastener (fig. U). Lower the presser foot, continue the seam to the end of the fastener and stitch the cross seam. Sew the second half of the fastener with a parallel stitch at the same distance. At a short distance from the end of the fastener, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the foot and open the zipper (Fig. V).
Lower the foot and sew the seam to the end.

Stitching a zipper into a seam

The zipper is prepared and laid as follows: Iron the edges of the cut. The left lapel is folded outward (Fig. S). Impose the left side of the open fastener (Fig. T). The teeth of the zipper should protrude slightly beyond the ironed fold line. The line stitch is laid along the ironed lapel of the edge of the fabric. The sewing foot is moved to the middle position so that the needle enters the middle hole of the foot. The teeth of the zipper should run along the left guide groove of the foot slide (fig. U). Before sewing, align the teeth of the zipper so that they can easily pass through the guide groove. Lay a line to the end of the fastener and fasten. Fasten the zipper. The second side of the fastener is fixed with a pin at the beginning of the seam (Fig. V) and the zipper is opened. Having taken out the fastening pin, the right lapel of the incision is bent outward together with the fastener tape and, as shown in Fig. W, secure it with a pin. The teeth of the zipper should now follow the right guide groove of the foot (fig. X). Sew the second half of the fastener. Then a zipper tape is sewn, retreating to the width of the foot. The teeth of the zipper now run along the guide tab of the foot (fig. Y).

Sewing zippers into ladies' trousers

Slide the zipper foot all the way to the left.
Iron the edges of the incision. Attach the fastened zipper with pins under the right ironed edge of the cut so that the teeth are still visible. Baste the prepared slope V and stitch it together with the zipper tape. The teeth of the zipper should run along the right guide tab of the foot (fig. S). Before finishing the stitch, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the foot and open the zipper. Lower the foot and finish the stitch. ZIP up. Baste the protruding edge of the cut along the seam line. left side fasten the zippers with pins (fig. T). Unzip. Fix the guide fence and set the stitching width so that the guide part of the ruler runs along the edge of the material (fig. U). Before finishing the stitch, leave the needle in the fabric, raise the presser foot and close the zipper.
Lower the foot and finish the stitch. Secure the end of the seam with a few backstitches.

Darn

Machine preparation:
Sewing foot: darning foot (special accessory)
Stitch: straight stitch middle needle position
Upper thread tension: slightly loose
Threads: fine machine sewing threads
Needle: No. 70
Fabric feed: covered with a darning plate
Attaching the darning foot to the machine: Remove the sewing foot holder, screw in the darning foot. When doing this, pay attention to the fact that the clamp T must rest on the holder of the screw S. Pull up the bobbin thread. Starting darning, you need to hold both threads. First, make a few stitches on healthy tissue. Pull both threads tight and darn the damaged area (see fig. V). At the end of each line, make a rounding (fig. V). Once the damaged area is completely covered, turn the fabric 90° and start sewing cross stitches until the entire damaged area is covered (fig. W). When darning, you determine the stitch length yourself by moving the material back and forth.

Cleaning and lubrication

Remove the mains plug from the socket. Raise the needle and presser foot to the up position. Loosen both fixing screws and remove the needle plate. Use a brush to clean the parts of the feed motor. Move aside both hook locks S. Remove the hook mechanism seat T and the hook U. Clean the groove of the hook bearing. Apply a drop of oil into the bearing groove from time to time.
Carefully! You can not drop the shuttle on the floor.

Replacing the lighting lamp

The table of needles used on this machine can be viewed

Troubleshooting

Causes:	Elimination:
1. The line is unraveling
Needle set incorrectly.	The needle must be inserted into the needle holder until it stops. The flat on the needle shaft should point backwards.
Wrong needle selected.	Needles of the 130/705 N system should be used
The needle is bent or blunt.	Insert a new needle.
The machine is not threaded correctly.	Check thread paths.
The needle is too thin for this fabric.	Use a thicker needle.
2. Broken upper thread
For the reasons stated above.
If the thread tension is too strong.	Adjust thread tension.
When using poor quality or knotted threads, or threads that have become excessively dry due to prolonged storage.	Use only good threads.
3. Broken needle
The needle is not fully inserted into the needle holder.
The needle is bent.	Install a new needle.
The needle is too thin or too thick.	Be guided by the "Table of Needles".
When pulling or pushing the fabric, the needle bends and enters the hole in the needle plate.	The fabric must be moved by the machine. Hands can only slightly guide the movement of the fabric.
4. Uneven seam
Incorrect thread tension.	Check the tension of the upper and lower threads.
The thread is too thick, knotty or stiff.	Use only good quality thread.
Uneven thread winding on the bobbin.	When winding the thread on the bobbin, use the winder tension regulator.
Stitch knitting occurs on the lower or upper surface of the sewn fabrics.	Thread the machine correctly. Check thread tension.
5. The cloth motor does not move the cloth or moves unevenly
Fibrous dust has been pressed between the feed dog racks.	Remove the needle plate and use a brush to clean the feed dog
6. Heavy running machine
There are thread trimmers in the hook bearing groove.	Remove the threads and drip one drop of oil
7. Important instructions
The threaded machine must not be started up without a backing of fabric. When leaving the car unattended, even for a short time, remove the mains plug from the socket. This is especially important if there are children nearby.

Accessories.

Accessories	Order number	Purpose
Application foot		For appliqué patches
Taping device (when the presser foot holder is removed)		For trimming edges with tape
Piping foot, 5-groove (twin needles with a spacing of 1.8-2.5 mm)		For sewing in edging (needle number 80),
Piping foot, 7-groove (twin needles with a spacing of 1.4-1.8 mm)		for thin edging (needle number 70)
Fringe foot		For fringing and copy stitching
Ruler guide		For sewing stitches
Sewing foot, 4.5 mm		For sewing seams
Sewing foot, 6.5 mm
Buttonhole foot		For making buttonholes
Gathering foot		For finishing flounces, etc.
Cord foot		For seams with cord
Overlock foot		For overcasting hems and for simultaneously sewing and overcasting the edges of stretch fabrics
Overlock foot, 2 mm		For overcasting edges with a zigzag stitch
Hem foot, 3 mm

Learn or at least see a photo of how a modern sewing machine not only informative, but also useful. Be sure to read this series of articles on the repair of modern household sewing machines. A visual representation of the sewing machine will help you make right choice when buying it, and also make you take care of it later.

It is quite difficult to disassemble a modern sewing machine on your own, but in most cases you will not have to do this. But still there are cases when you have to disassemble the sewing machine yourself. For example, when you need to replace the electric drive, a line does not form, the needle breaks, etc., and there is no way to contact the workshop, because it simply does not exist in your city or village.

In this article, you will learn how to properly disassemble (remove) plastic lids a modern household sewing machine, an ordinary inexpensive model from Brother, Janome, and any other.

1. What tools are needed

Almost all models of modern economy-class household machines are assembled in China, and therefore, in order to disconnect the plastic parts of the case, you only need Phillips screwdrivers. One screwdriver should have a Phillips slot for medium-sized screws and one slightly more powerful, even with a flat slot.

Screws for machines of European assembly (sometimes Taiwanese) often have some feature. You can unscrew them only with a special screwdriver (asterisk) with a special slot. First, look at what kind of screwdriver you can unscrew the case mount, you may have to buy it in a store specifically for this.
This photo shows types of modern screwdrivers and screws. By the way, we will disassemble the sewing machine, which is in the foreground. It is called "Dragonfly" - China. Its body is assembled on ordinary cruciform screws.

2. Before disassembling the machine

First, remove all parts that do not require special tools. Start with the removable table, then detach the foot. Remove the needle plate. To do this, with a flat screwdriver, you need to unscrew only one screw (sometimes two). Naturally, you need to pull out the bobbin and the plastic hook or bobbin case, remove the spool and, in order not to get hurt, it does not hurt to remove the needle.
Now you need to unscrew the screw indicated by the arrow in the photo and carefully remove the front cover. There is a special latch at the top of the cover, you need to unfasten it before "pulling it out" by force.

All screws do not need to be put in one "heap". When you start to assemble back, it will be difficult for you to determine which screw and where it was. Therefore, mark them in any way convenient for you. For example, you can put a piece of paper with a mark next to each screw (s).

3. We begin to disassemble the sewing machine

Now let's start disassembling the sewing machine, or rather disconnect its plastic case, consisting of two halves. But first remove the shuttle cover. To do this, unscrew the screws indicated by the arrows. As well as the front cover, this part, in addition to screws, is also attached to the latches. To loosen them, you need to insert a screwdriver into the slot and try to gently slide the cover to the left. WITH reverse side where the handwheel is located, remove the pattern selection knob. Just pull it hard to the right. Immediately pay attention to how it stood, so that it is easier to install it back.

And two more types of fastening are located in the lower part of the machine body. For many models of sewing machines, the rubber feet in the lower part of the case are also the fastening of the plastic case to the metal frame of the sewing machine. In any case, for this model of the machine, two rear legs serve as such a mount. But since we will be removing only the front of the case, unscrew only one leg (upper right).

For all sewing machines of this class, it is imperative to release the mount indicated in the photo by the letter (A). Moreover, both screws do not need to be unscrewed, it is enough to release only the cover front side. In this case, you need to unscrew the top screw.

4. Unscrew the most inaccessible screw

The last, but most inconspicuous screw (B) remains. It is located in the depth of the front of the machine. Even at high magnification, it is not visible in the photo. That screw, which is so clearly visible, does not need to be unscrewed. This is the top thread tensioner. By the way, it remains in place after removing the cover. Consider this moment and do not try to remove it. Actually, it is not difficult to unscrew the screw itself, it will be much more difficult to put it back. Therefore, hold the screwdriver on the magnet for a while, this will help you later.

Now you can remove the front cover, although it should be noted that other models may have additional mount but the principle is about the same. Look carefully, your machine may have an additional mount at the bottom of the case. It happens that the fastening of the covers is hidden by plugs. Pry off the plug on the back of the machine with a knife blade and make sure there is no additional fastening there.

By the way, it is with the help of a knife that you will have to remove the cover, since in addition to the screws on the ends of the covers there are latches. Insert the knife blade between the body ladles and carefully try to push them apart by moving the latches. But it’s difficult to immediately determine where they are located, so please be patient if you really decide that you definitely need to disassemble the sewing machine.

5. How to separate the two parts of the body

This is approximately the "picture" you will see when you can disassemble your sewing machine. It is probably worth noting that the most difficult thing is not to find all the screws that secure the covers to the case and to each other. It is very difficult to carefully remove the covers, disconnect their latches. If this is done in a hurry, then you can damage the plastic, which will ruin not only appearance machines, but it will also interfere with work. Rough parts in the area of ​​the sleeve of the machine will cling to fabrics and even form puffs.

It is important to firmly decide whether you need to disassemble the machine yourself or not. If there is no other option, then be patient and attentive. Well, why do we need to disassemble it, we have already mentioned above, but we will understand in more detail in other articles.

How does a modern household electric sewing machine work. The main malfunctions of units and mechanisms.

Sometimes it becomes necessary to disassemble the sewing machine, or rather remove the plastic case of the machine in order to gain access to some nodes. This need is very rare and only occurs when the sewing machine motor or drive belt needs to be replaced.

Just like the pedal, the electric motor is not worth repairing yourself. Moreover, there is nothing to repair there. The engine either works or it doesn't. If it does not work, and you know for sure that there is no other reason for this, then it needs to be replaced.

Such a "trifle" as winding thread on a bobbin often creates a lot of inconvenience. For some reason, it is not always possible to quickly and "without problems" do this. Let's see why it is sometimes difficult to wind the thread on the bobbin and what needs to be done to eliminate minor damage to the winder.

The opinion of the master about which sewing machine is the best. Details about the used Rubin sewing machine and other old Veritas models.

Sometimes, you need to remove the overlock covers and lubricate all the rubbing parts inside the case. What you need to pay attention to and how to do it yourself.

The number of operations of the sewing machine Pfaff Hobby 1142 - 24 pcs. But there are fewer types of lines - only 23 pieces.

Universal Sector

• A. Loop machine
• B/C. straight stitch
• C/D. Zigzag
• E. Dotted zigzag
• F. Hidden elastic stitching
• G/H. Hidden stitch
• J. Stretch crotch stitch
• M/N/O/P. Decorative finishing stitches

Elastic sector S.S.

• B/C. Stretch triple straight stitch
• D. Reinforced zigzag
• E. Honeycomb Stitch
• F/G/H/J Overlock stitch
• M/N/O/P. Decorative finishing stitches

Pfaff Hobby 1142 has every possible knob and setting in given class sewing machines.

Regulated

• stitch length
• stitch width
• thread tension
• presser foot pressure on fabric

The only limitation will be the stitch width of 5mm instead of the desired 7mm. This fact suggests that the loop, although it is performed in one step (automatically), cannot be adjusted in width!

For that, there is an auto-reset for the loop (on the operation controller "arrow bent over the floor").

Equipment

The standard package includes all the most necessary paws and accessories that you may need for the first time.

Standard equipment includes

1. Foot universal (installed initially)
2. Decorative stitch foot
3. Overlock foot
4. Zipper foot
5. Blind stitch foot
6. Buttonhole foot
7. Parallel stitch guide
8. Large reel seat
9. Reel seat small
10. Felt pad 2 pcs
11. Cleaning brush
12. Steamer
13. Rod for the second coil
14. Screwdriver
15. Bobbins 4 pcs
16. A set of universal needles 5 pcs
17. Case hard plastic
18. Pedal
19. Instruction in Russian

For dense fabrics, I recommend purchasing needles for jeans and leather, and for elastic fabrics, stretch or jersey needles.

Now there are quite a few needle manufacturers, but I prefer Organ and Schmetz.

If there is a need to work with stretchy fabrics, then the knit foot or the upper conveyor will be a must.

Contents may vary depending on delivery.

Reliability

The cost and the declared premium class of the PFAFF brand oblige hobby model 1142 have metal carcass, foot holder (adapter) and a plastic case that perfectly isolates us from noise and current.

The reliability of the shuttle design is also not suspicious. It is reinforced with a metal ring and firmly fixed to the frame.

But upon closer inspection, you can find small assembly defects.

Not all parts are connected evenly and end-to-end. A gap of 1 mm was seen near the bobbin winder.

Near the shuttle, again, the hull breathes through the slot.

Maybe that's why the shuttle plate also refused to lie "at the seams"?

But this wavy joint in the working area reminded me of relaxation, the beach and surfing.

I would like to think that temporary errors in production, which led to a decrease in build quality and evenness of the body materials of the tested model, were corrected in time.

We were given a completely new sewing machine for the test, the packaging was not broken and was not opened before the review!

A metal frame and a powerful 75 W motor weigh the machine up to 7.2 kg. Even the pedal of the sewing machine is heavy and looks impressive.

The convenience of use

Let's start the description of all the amenities with the presser foot pressure regulator on the fabric. Regulator 3-stage.

The pressure range is quite large, but is more designed to relieve down pressure.

A knife for trimming the thread protrudes from the body on the left. There is a needle threader that threads the thread manually.

The thread enters the eye of the needle after the user puts the thread on the 2 hooks of the needle threader. Illumination of the working area is standard - an incandescent lamp (two-pin), power 15 watts. The Pfaff Hobby 1142 package includes an additional reel seat (vertical). It is installed in tandem with the main horizontal spool holder for sewing with a twin needle.

On the back of the sewing machine there is a lower feed cut-off lever that lowers the lower feed dog below the level of the hook plate.

Feed off is used for darning, embroidery, etc. operations.

Amazingly handy accessory case expands working area up to 18 cm!

Accessory case flip-top lets you store additional accessories without removing the case.

Few people look under the sewing machine. In this design, we see that half of the sewing machine, or rather working part, does not rely on anything.

By clicking on the upper left point of the machine, you can see how unstable it is. But I note that in ordinary sewing this is not noticeable due to the center of gravity shifted to the right.

The hard case is concise and fits snugly to the machine body, which saves storage space.

Stitchability of materials

The classic 4-segment feed dog used for modern machines with a horizontal hook allows you to easily cope with all types of fabric.

Video review of the firmware Pfaff Hobby 1142

Test Results

• Organza in 2 additions - Good
• Jeans in 4 additions - Good
• Skin 2 mm- Good
• Knitwear - Excellent
• 3-layer belt - Excellent :)

The test was carried out on a universal foot and without additional materials and devices.

Noise

Apparently, by increasing the working surface, there was more free space inside the sewing machine, which allowed the body to resonate with more force on our test. The result is still not bad - 73 dB.

Measurements were taken at home. The sewing machine was located on wooden table. The sound level meter MS 6708 is installed at a distance of 40 cm from the sewing machine. Sound level meter error ± 1.5 dbA. Our measurement should not be compared with tables of average values, as measurements were made exclusively according to our specifications.