How to make a rabbit cage dimensions. How to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands - types of structures, preparation for work and phased construction technology

  • 14.06.2019

Reading time ≈ 11 minutes

One of the important components of the successful keeping of rabbits is the provision of suitable housing for animals - cages. Cages are very convenient for breeding animals - it is easiest to feed, care for, and, if necessary, treat animals in them. At the same time, do not rush to buy industrial copies - you can make cells yourself. We will look at how to build DIY rabbit cages, as well as a series of photos of original building ideas.

Two-story cage for rabbits.

Features and requirements

In fact, a cage is a construction in the form of a box with opening front doors. It consists of a frame (sometimes with high legs), closed by walls, a roof and a floor. Inside there are compartments for food and rest, separated by a partition with a manhole. In the aft compartment there is a feeder and.

Size and design features cells depend on the age, breed, sex of the rabbit, the method of keeping. However, in essence, the design will be identical for all groups of animals.

A common drawing of rabbit cages.

When viewed from above, the cell diagram looks like this. The floor of the cage can either be completely mesh or have a mesh insert to remove feces. The floor in the nesting section must be solid, windproof and warm.

Schematic representation of the cell from above.

Another version of the cells is also in demand - which has sleeping compartments on the sides, and in the center - an area for feeding and activity. Such blocks are longer (up to 1.2 m), the standard height is about 35 cm.

There are several types of cellular content:

  • in room;
  • outside;
  • combined - part of the year indoors, part - on the street.
  • the use of high-quality, durable, rough building materials;
  • reliability and stability of the structure;
  • no more than 3 tiers of cells (device of a sloping roof for effective removal of feces);
  • the presence of a canopy.

Important! V winter time Be sure to take care of the insulation of the cells. Boxes should be reliably protected from frost and wind, especially if animal breeding is planned.

Cell types

As we have already indicated, the design of the animal house is selected based on many factors. Therefore, we will briefly consider the main distinguishing features of blocks for animals with different needs:


House for rabbit rabbits.

In addition to standard cages, there are also options with an aviary. If there is free space, such blocks can be installed. The aviary is equipped either under the structure or near the back wall. At least one of the walls of the enclosure should be mesh, but the option is also popular when the back wall is solid, and the rest of the mesh - as in the photo:

Two-story cage with an aviary.

With a large number of individuals, a shed will become a convenient design for keeping. It is a frame with 2-3 tiers of cages under a canopy. This whole structure looks like a mini-shed, but it greatly increases the efficiency and convenience of care, allows you to rationally use the area, while each animal can be provided with a separate block. You can also build a shed yourself.

Shed for rabbits.

Depending on the needs of the animal and your goals appearance designs can be absolutely any. For example, for males, which are usually kept alone, you can build a very simple one-story block:

A simple one-story cell.

You can also make a frame and divide it into three compartments to accommodate several individuals under one roof.

One-story block with three cells.

If you have enough space, and the amount of living creatures is small, you can make a two-story (two-story) apartment for animals:

A two-story cage in the form of a house for one individual.

Another version of a two-tier block with a symmetrical attractive facade:

Please note: In all such structures with an aviary, a tray is located below the upper tier for effective removal of feces.

Two-story cage in the form of a house.

If you wish, you can embody the most original ideas and make a cage for rabbits with your own hands like a house, as in the photo below. To descend into the walking area, the block must be equipped with a ladder.

Blue teremok cage.

And here is another outstanding design - in order to use the space with benefit, beds with greenery are equipped on the roof of the block.

Cage with seedlings on the roof.

Another example of a design - on the sides of the block there are a feeder and a drinker. In the center there is a nest with manholes on both sides. Thanks to the convenient door, you can access the kids and easily perform care procedures.

House with compartments.

In the photo below we see a very original, practical and simple design like a wheelbarrow. The pet house is equipped with a pair of wheels on the back and a pair of handles on the front. If necessary, the cage can be quickly and without outside help move to another location. At the same time, the block is equipped with a nest and there is enough space for walking in it.

Mobile home on wheels.

To make the household part of the yard look aesthetically pleasing and original, houses for living creatures can be built in the oriental Pagoda style.

Pagoda style house.

If you need a spacious aviary for walking young animals, you can make a metal structure, completely mesh with a little shelter.

Spacious aviary for rabbits.

Before you start building a home for animals, read these simple recommendations. They will save you a lot of time in the creation process and allow you to avoid some mistakes:

  • With year-round outdoor maintenance for the manufacture of walls, it is better to choose thick boards. If the rabbits are kept partly outside, the sides of the cage can be made of plywood. If the rabbits are on the street only in summer, then the walls can be made from a strong mesh.
  • When kept outdoors, the structure must be placed at a height of at least 0.7 m from the ground. This will protect the animals from the cold, precipitation, as well as rats and other animals.
  • The floor can be built from wooden slats or grids. The size of the cells should be about 1-1.5 cm, so that manure passes freely through the holes, but the animals do not injure their paws.
  • For the roof, you can use boards or plywood. And on top, for reliability, put any available roofing material. The only thing to keep in mind is that metal sheets can become very hot in the sun and overheat the cage, so you will have to install a canopy from above.
  • On the front wall you need to install two doors on hooks, one mesh, the second wooden.
  • The wooden elements of the house are likely to be gnawed, therefore it is recommended to sheathe the most vulnerable parts of the cage with thin tin sheets, namely: the edges of wooden beams in the frame and doors, a manhole, a feeder.
  • Removable glazing should be provided in case of bad weather. Frame with glass can be attached different ways, for example, on hooks, and shoot in sunny weather.

Idea: facade and exterior walls can be upholstered decorative material or paint to give the house a decorative look.

Cage with supports.

Necessary materials

So, let's consider the manufacture of a three-tier structure for group keeping of rabbits.

Necessary materials:

  • timber with a section of 5 * 5 cm;
  • aluminum plaster corner;
  • screws;
  • metal connecting corners;
  • slats 24 * 12 mm (for the floor, you can use a metal mesh);
  • galvanized sheets.

All mounts in the cage will look like this.

Required tool:

  • construction stapler;
  • grinder (hacksaw);
  • roulette;
  • screwdriver;
  • electric drill.

For the construction we will use the following drawing. One tier is shown here, such structures will require 3 pieces.

Drawing of a cage (one tier).

Manufacturing process

Below is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a house.

  1. First you need to prepare the material for work - saw the timber into the desired segments. So, you need 16 pieces of 1.9 m each (12 pieces need to be sheathed with corners from one side), 24 pieces of 0.35 m each, 18 pieces of 0.8 m each, 12 pieces of 0.45 m each, 6 pieces of 0, 7 m. All prepared segments must be sheathed on one side with a corner using a stapler. These parts will be in direct contact with animals, which means that the tree needs to be protected from chewing.
  2. Bar preparation.

  3. For the manufacture of the first tier, we assemble the frame. To do this, we connect the corners of 2 segments of 1.9 m and 0.35 m. It turns out a rectangle.
  4. We fold the frame.

  5. Next, on a long segment, we measure 55 cm from the edges on each side, top and bottom. We make notes. Now we insert a bar 0.35 m long into the middle of the rectangle so that the marking line is closer to the center.
  6. Insert jumpers.

  7. This results in a division:
  8. Caracas in the making.

  9. We make a hole for the feeder. To do this, find the middle along a long line and make a mark. On the opposite side, on the bar, we mark 0.7 m from the right and left ends. We apply bars 45 cm long with a triangle for fitting, mark the angle and cut it with a hacksaw and attach it.
  10. We make a hole for food.

  11. By the same principle, we build the second part for the first tier. With the help of bars 80 cm long, we connect both parts. The frame of the first tier is ready.
  12. Finished tier frame.

  13. For the floor, you can use wooden slats or a metal mesh. If you use rails, you must first drill holes for the screws in them, otherwise the thin rails may crack. Watch the distance between the rails - it should be about 1-1.2 cm so that the animals do not injure the limbs.
  14. Fixing rails on the floor.

  15. The side parts of the structure, as well as the lintels, are made of plywood. Instead, you can use a grid or boards.
  16. We use galvanized sheets for the roof. In size, they should be slightly larger than the frame, so that it is possible to make small visors over the compartments.
  17. With the help of hinges from the front, it is necessary to attach doors made of mesh and plywood. On this one tier is completely finished.
  18. In conclusion, the wood cage must be treated with fire. First, it will eliminate burrs and make the wood look smoother. Second, roasting will eliminate most microorganisms from upper layers tree. Then the structure must be treated with a disinfectant, for example Brovadez, according to the instructions.

In principle, you can stop there if you do not need accommodation a large number living creatures. But if there are a lot of rabbits and little space, you can continue and put the three compartments into a single three-story structure.

This will require strong bars 2 m long (4 pieces). You need to fasten the compartments with metal corners. The first compartment should be at least 30 cm above the ground. The distance between the compartments should be kept at least 10 cm to accommodate pallets.

Finished construction.

Thus, we presented a selection of photos from original ideas designs, and also considered the step-by-step manufacture of cages for rabbits with their own hands.


Video: step by step construction cages for rabbits.

Building cages for rabbits involves certain questions: how many and what breed of rabbits will you breed, will you breed. After that, we already choose the type of enclosure and proceed to work. We use the most affordable materials - plywood or wood, mesh and slate. Since the rabbits will gnaw the cages from the inside, we do not use in our work something that can harm their health: chemical antiseptics, materials with metal shavings.

The main types of aviaries - what is common and how are they different?

Rabbits are capricious animals. You can place the aviary both indoors and on outdoors. But street cells are suitable only for the southern regions, otherwise in winter period eared will freeze. The optimum temperature for keeping rabbits is from 10 to 20 degrees. In enclosures, drafts, direct sunlight and humidity above 75% should be avoided. Considering all this, find the most optimal location and proceed to the choice of the type of aviary.

There are several types of cages for rabbits:

  • simple cells, with or without a queen cell; with an aviary for walking or without;
  • cells of I. N. Mikhailov;
  • cells of N. I. Zolotukhin.

Regardless of the type of enclosure, it is placed at a height of at least 70 cm from the ground in one or more tiers. This can be done using high legs or wall mounts. In this way, rabbits will be protected from rodents and other animals, and the air in the rooms will circulate better. The size of a rabbit's home depends on the breed, sex, and age.

Simple cells - advantages and disadvantages

For the manufacture of enclosures with their own hands, they try to take natural materials eg boards. Since rabbits gnaw on everything they come across, chipboard should not be used. It is both harmful to animals and crumbles quickly. Often inside the rabbit housing is protected from the teeth of animals with iron lining. But this can only be done if the temperature of the content is stable in both winter and summer. Otherwise, the iron will be very hot from the sun or cool in winter.

Particular attention is paid to the floor of the aviary. Rabbit urine is very caustic, and therefore corrodes wood. Most often, the floor is made of mesh. Sometimes they stuff a lattice of wooden slats. So all the stool will flow down. It will be much easier to clean the cages, which means that the likelihood of rabbits getting sick becomes less.

In the manufacture of cages for decorative rabbits, a net is not used, because due to the lack of pads on their paws, they simply cannot sit on such a floor for a long time.

Attach the mother liquor to the enclosures if you plan to breed rabbits. It is in the mother liquor that the female gives birth and nurses the rabbits. Only when they get stronger, she moves to the main room. The quality and quantity of the offspring is affected by the attached open-air cage, since the high mobility of individuals contributes to their reproduction.


Mikhailov's cells - rabbit mini-farm

Mikhailov's design is more complex enclosures suitable for a large farm. They are often used in industry, helping to significantly reduce labor costs. The construction of such an aviary is patented, has automatic cleaning and feeding, heated queen cells. Most often, this is a three-level house with a middle floor for feeding and an upper floor for walking. It is quite difficult to build it yourself, it requires good construction experience and significant financial expenses.


Zolotukhin's cells - saving space and building material

Zolotukhin cells are easier to manufacture. Their main distinguishing feature that the floor is sloping. For it, not the usual mesh is used, but plywood or slate. The grid is installed only at the cell wall itself. According to studies, rabbits in 90% of cases relieve themselves at the walls. Zolotukhin's design takes up little space, the cells in it are arranged in three rows of two. This saves both space and material for work. Such enclosures are well suited for keeping a large number of rabbits; it is not advisable to use them for several individuals.

Making a regular cell

To save material and space, the cells are made at least paired. For the base, a board 3 m long by 0.7 m is taken. So you can fit two compartments 1.5 meters long. These cell sizes are suitable for young or male individuals. For females, a smaller size is sufficient. First of all, you need to prepare drawings with dimensions, based on tips and illustrations.


To make this design, you will need:

  • 2 sheets of plywood (1.5 by 1.5 meters);
  • 10 three-meter bars (30 by 50 mm);
  • 3 m mesh with 15 mm cells;
  • screws and tools for work.

The size of the cells in the mesh used should not exceed 20 mm, otherwise the rabbits will get stuck in them.

Before making a homemade aviary, many farmers advise treating the tree with antibacterial impregnations. It is worth choosing the safest formulations, since otherwise you can poison the animal. First of all, a frame with a height of 1.2 in front and 1 meter in the back is made from bars.

Then the floor is hemmed with a grid. It is not necessary to reach the edges with a mesh, there will be queen cells, and the floor in them is made without holes. The back wall is made of plywood, fastened to the bars with self-tapping screws. Along the edges, mother liquors are also made of plywood. The ceiling is slightly lowered in them so that they look more like a hole. A small hole is made in the side wall, with a diameter of 16 centimeters. Such a mother liquor can be made removable if desired.

Make a feeder in the center. It is more convenient to divide it into two parts: for feed and for hay. The first is a tall box with a bowl base. And the second is a trapezoidal mesh box.

The roof is made of plywood with overlaps of 5-10 centimeters. You can make it in two parts, leaving a gap in the middle. It will be convenient to fill the feeders in it. Then doors are made using bars and mesh.

According to the same step-by-step instructions, you can make a cage with two or three floors. But in this case, the roof is covered with some kind of protective material. For example, upholstered with sheet iron or polycarbonate. Then your rabbit house will last longer.

Making a Zolotukhin cell

Making an aviary using the Zolotukhin method with your own hands is not much more difficult than building an ordinary cage. For this you will need:

  • wooden bars;
  • net;
  • boards;
  • sheet iron;
  • polycarbonate;
  • slate.

An aviary of the following dimensions will be built: 2 m wide, 1.5 m high, 80 cm deep. The slope of the floor is 5 cm, a 20 cm strip of net will be located at the back wall.

First, we build a similar frame for the aviary. In the middle we leave a place for a sennik. But the floor, unlike an ordinary cage, is lined not with a net, but with durable slate. Do not forget to indent 20 centimeters from the back wall.


The back walls are made of polycarbonate. They need to be fixed at an angle so that the upper part of the wall joins with the slate edge of the floor of the next floor. And at the very top tier it is straight. This scheme allows rabbit droppings to roll down the walls.

Closed queen cells are made on the sides of the structure, similarly to a regular cage. All other walls and doors of the enclosure are made of mesh.

The feeder in the Zolotukhin model is also not simple. It is inserted directly into the door and rests on hinged nails. Thanks to this, you can pour the feed and clean the feeder without opening the door. It occupies about 2/3 of the width of the door. The outer wall of the feeder is twice as high as the inner wall.


No wonder Zolotukhin's cells have long been very popular: they are easy to manufacture and easy to maintain.

It is best to start building aviaries from the very simple option. Later, given the experience gained, you can move on to more complex structures, including Mikhailov's mini-farm.

For those who decide to start breeding rabbits, the question of making a comfortable cage for rodents necessarily arises. Eared dwellings can be designed in different ways, and made both in the factory and with their own hands. On the last version and stop.

What materials can be made

When planning the construction of rabbit cages, the first thing to think about is the choice of suitable building materials. In principle, for the construction of a simple structure that can protect animals from adverse external factors, any improvised means are suitable.

In the construction of rabbit farms, wood and metal, galvanized profiles, plastic elements, bricks, clay, and even industrial pallets are used. Despite the fact that almost any materials are suitable for use, their choice should be approached with all responsibility.

Wood

Even a novice rabbit breeder can handle the manufacture of a wooden cage

Wood is widely used in the construction of rabbit cages. From it you can make any structural elements. It is from a wooden bar that the frame of the future cage is usually made. Wooden plank flooring is also popular with rabbit breeders.

The main advantages of the material are environmental friendliness and ease of processing.. Wooden elements can easily be given almost any shape. You should not lose sight of the excellent thermal insulation properties of wood: in winter it will be warm in a wooden rabbitry, and not too hot in summer.

Of the shortcomings, it is worth highlighting the rapid destruction. Rabbits love to chew on everything, so wooden elements interior decoration cells are quickly destroyed by rodents. In addition, wood, due to its porous structure, absorbs all odors and liquids, so it is not recommended to put a solid wood floor in a cage.

Important! Insects and humidity also contribute to the rapid destruction of the tree, therefore, all wooden structural elements must be processed. protective compounds. When choosing such a composition, make sure that it is safe for animals.

Metal

Metal is much stronger than wood, but working with it requires a different level of skill.

Metal is a more durable building material than wood.. Rabbits cannot chew through metal parts, they are easy to clean and insects are not afraid of them. True, metal processing requires the master to have special skills, as well as the ability to handle special tools.

The frame of the future cell is created from metal pipes. Metal is also used for the interior decoration of wooden cages to prevent the natural material from being gnawed through. And here is the roof external walls it is not recommended to make metal cages, since they can get very hot in the sun, and freeze in the cold, which is fraught with a threat to the health of eared residents.

Galvanized profile

Galvanized profile is used in combination with other materials. Unlike all-metal elements, strengthening or finishing the cage with a profile does not make the structure heavier, which is especially important for portable mobile rabbit cages.

Plastic elements

Plastic is lightweight and durable, but can release toxic substances in the heat

Plastic pipes can become an alternative to wooden beams and metal pipes. Durable and lightweight material allows you to create universal cages for use in any conditions.

When working with plastic, it is important to keep animal safety in mind. Internal structural elements that can get on the teeth of rabbits should not be made of plastic. The animal can injure the mouth or esophagus with fragments, as well as be poisoned by synthetic substances that make up the material.

Important! Some types of plastic release toxic fumes when exposed to extreme heat (such as heat).

bricks and clay

Bricks and clay are used to build rabbit cages mainly in hot regions.. The foundations for the houses are laid out with bricks, and the seams are smeared with clay. Such a cage protects animals well from overheating, since the brick has excellent thermal insulation properties.

Net

The walls of the cages for rabbits are made solid, in the form of a lattice of planks, or they are made of mesh. The most convenient option is considered to be with a mesh, which should have cells of medium or small size and be strong enough.

Slate

The most practical material for making a roof in a rabbit cage is slate. It perfectly performs a protective function, while not overheating in the sun and not afraid of moisture.

improvised materials

Rabbits are not the most whimsical animals to care for. Houses made from improvised materials are suitable as temporary housing or in conditions of critical economy. Inventive rabbit breeders adapt old barrels and containers for keeping rodents or assemble multi-story structures from industrial pallets.

Each material has special properties that can be both a plus and a minus. The choice should be guided by the advice of experienced rabbit breeders, individual conditions (climate, animal breed, etc.) and instructions for popular drawings, if you plan to use them.

Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

When choosing a cage option for rabbits, you can opt for a Zolotukhin or Mikhailov cage

There are many options for cages for rabbits, which differ in the number of tiers and sections, sizes and the presence of "amenities" in the form of feeders and drinkers. On the Internet, it is easy to find author's drawings like the designs of Zolotukhin or Mikhailov.

If we talk about a typical cage for adult rabbits, then the following dimensions will be the optimal parameters:

  • Length - 120–150 cm;
  • Width - 60–80 cm;
  • Height - 60 cm.

In order to rationalize the consumption of material and for ease of maintenance, it is recommended to build paired cages. In this case, the length will increase to 3 m.

You should not save space and make cells smaller. Animals must have enough free space, otherwise they become inactive, get sick and stop producing offspring.

In appearance, a typical cage resembles a block consisting of two sections, each of which can contain one adult. Most often, wood and plywood are used in construction for the frame and interior decoration, metal mesh with small cells for walls and partitions, as well as slate for roofing.

The floor of the cell is rarely made solid. Usually it is collected from narrow slats or a net is used, as this simplifies the care of rodents. Rabbits produce a lot of waste, which falls through a mesh or slatted floor into a specially installed tray. If flooring make it solid, then you will have to clean it too often.

To make a standard cage, you will need the following materials:

  • Wooden beam - 10 pieces measuring 300x3x5 cm;
  • Plywood sheets - 2 pieces measuring 150x150x0.1 cm;
  • Metal mesh - 3 m with a mesh size not larger than 15 mm;
  • Self-tapping screws - about 2 kg. You will need sizes 3 and 7 cm;
  • Accessories - door hinges and heck;
  • Perhaps wooden floor slats as an alternative to metal mesh.

Tools for work:

  • Hand saw or grinder;
  • Metal scissors or wire cutters;
  • Screwdriver or hammer with nails (instead of self-tapping screws);
  • Roulette, pencil, level.

Drawing

Drawing of a typical cage for rabbits

The drawing indicates all the main structural elements and indicates the dimensions in cm.

Manufacturing instructions

  1. Construction should begin with the manufacture of the frame. It is assembled from a wooden beam, which is sawn according to size and fastened to self-tapping screws or nails. If possible, it is recommended to deepen the legs of the frame into the ground for greater stability of the structure.
  2. The floor of the future cell is assembled from slats, between which gaps of 0.5–1 cm are left, or a metal mesh is placed. Closed nest compartments on the sides of the cage can be made solid by laying plywood.
  3. Plywood is also used to make the back and side walls of the cage, the feeder.
  4. Having made the doors using a metal mesh and the remains of a tree, you should fix them with fittings.
  5. At the end of the work, the cage is covered with a roof. Depending on the external conditions, they put a double roof (plywood and slate on top) or simply cover it with slate.

Video: Do-it-yourself typical rabbit cage

In addition to the covered part, the cage for decorative rabbits must have an open

The more spacious the dwelling for a decorative rabbit, the better. Comfort for the animal is also provided by the construction of two-story structures or open-air cages. Decorative rabbits are usually kept indoors, therefore, the requirements for thermal insulation and protection from external factors are much lower for the design of the dwelling.

The floor covering in a cage for decorative breeds of rabbits should be solid and soft. The surface of the paws of decorative rodents is prone to inflammation and deformation, as it does not have soft pads. The ideal option is a wooden floor covered with soft absorbent material (sawdust, special wood filler, soft straw, absorbent diapers, etc.).

Necessary tools and materials

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits involves the use of the following materials:

  • Sheets of plywood, chipboard or wooden panels: it is better to take with a margin, focusing on the size of the cage (90x60x45 cm);
  • Metal sheet (tin can be used): 90x60 cm;
  • Wooden slats;
  • Metal mesh: 60x45 cm minimum;
  • Self-tapping screws or nails;
  • Door hardware.

Tools for work:

  • Saw, hacksaw or jigsaw;
  • Screwdriver or hammer;
  • Nippers or scissors for metal;

Drawing

Drawing of a multi-tiered cage for decorative rabbits

The dimensions in the drawing are in centimeters. The size and design of the cage is optimal for keeping one adult in a heated room.

Manufacturing instructions

  1. The construction of a cage for a decorative rabbit begins with the floor. From a chipboard or a wooden shield, a base of 90x60 cm is cut out.
  2. A metal shield of the same size is placed on a wooden base.
  3. Then, from wood or chipboard, shields are prepared for walls with dimensions: 45x60 cm.
  4. The frame is assembled using nails or self-tapping screws.
  5. The door is made of wooden slats and metal mesh. Optimal size for the door - 30x30 cm.
  6. The second tier is made of the same material as the walls and is installed inside the cage.
  7. The ladder is made of rails, observing a width of at least 15 cm, and set it close to the second tier, carefully fixing it.

Making a cage for keeping decorative rabbits is quite simple. Even novice rabbit breeders who have no experience in construction and design will cope with the task. Stain cell surfaces paintwork materials it is not worth it, as rodents can be poisoned by toxic substances, gnawing through structural elements.

Video: do-it-yourself two-story rabbit cage

Design features

All rabbit cages are designed according to general principles However, different types of shelters have their own characteristics. The nuances of the designs depend mainly on the breeds and individuals that the rabbit breeder plans to keep. Any productive farm contains several groups of rabbits of different ages or even breeds at the same time.

Depending on whether the rabbit cage will be outdoors or indoors, you should choose suitable materials for construction and plan the dimensions of the structure. Cells can have from 1 to 3 tiers and an unlimited number of sections in length.

For rabbits of different ages (newborns, young, adults), special conditions are required, and accordingly, the cages for them will be different. For example, pregnant females with newborn rabbits are kept in special uterine cages with nests.

The size of the cages should be planned in such a way that the animals have enough space and space. Obviously, cages for giant rabbits and dwarf individuals will be very different from each other.

Depending on the size of the rabbits

The size of the cell is directly related to the dimensions of the future tenants.

The optimal dimensions for a spacious cage, which contain a pair of adult rabbits of standard dimensions:

  • Length - 120–170 cm;
  • Width - 60–80 cm;
  • Height - 50–60 cm.

Dwarf and ornamental (up to 4–5 kg) rabbits will have more modest conditions:

  • Length - 70–90 cm;
  • Width - 35–55 cm;
  • Height - 30–50 cm.

Giant rabbits will need much more space:

  • Length - 85–100 cm;
  • Width - 70–80 cm;
  • Height - 60–80 cm.

Multi-tiered cages

Productive rabbit breeding involves the simultaneous maintenance of a large number of rodents of different sex and age. Multi-tiered structures for keeping animals come to the aid of rabbit breeders. Cells are installed both in two and in three tiers. Multi-level cages for rabbits are capital structures, which, nevertheless, are quite simple to build on your own.

Multi-tiered cages according to Zolotukhin's drawings are popular with rabbit farm owners. They have a number of advantages:

  • capacity;
  • The ability to keep in one place all representatives of rabbit families (females, young and males);
  • It is convenient to take care of animals;
  • Zolotukhin's cells are quite mobile - they can be moved from place to place.

Depending on destination

If a rabbit with rabbits live in a cage, then they definitely need to arrange a secluded place

Depending on destination rabbit cages are divided into several types, each of which has its own design features:

  • Standard cage for permanent housing. A drawing of such a cage is easy to find on the Internet and build a home for rodents on your own. Attention should be paid to the dimensions of the cage, which should not be too small, and the safety of materials;
  • The breeding cage should be much more spacious, as several individuals will be in it at the same time;
  • A special type of house for a rabbit with rabbits or a pregnant female is called a mother liquor. A secluded place and warmth are the two main components of the comfort of a pregnant rabbit and her newborn rabbits. As a rule, the mother liquor has solid walls, a kind of house imitating a tight mink and devices for feeding the mother;
  • The cage for young animals meets the standard requirements, but is often equipped with an additional aviary for walking. The opportunity to warm up a little favorably affects the growth and development of fragile cubs. The walking area is made of metal mesh and often provides animals with access to fresh grass.

Depending on the climate and time of year

The optimum temperature around for the normal well-being of rabbits is 14–16 degrees. Maintaining a normal climate in the houses and protecting animals from rain and wind are the main requirements for the design of rabbit cages.

In large rabbit farms, keeping rodents in winter and summer provides for different kinds cells. Winter ones are insulated with OSB or other fiber, sometimes water heating is carried out in them.

In regions with temperate climate without sudden temperature changes, rabbits can be kept year-round in the same portable structures, which, upon the onset of the first cold weather, are transferred indoors. In the summer, such cells are again moved to the open air.

Selecting a location for installation

You can place rabbit cages both indoors and outdoors. Outdoor maintenance is recommended only for regions with a warm climate or in the case of the construction of well-insulated heated structures.

Rabbits do not tolerate high humidity, so in the open air, you should choose a place remote from water bodies, preferably on a hill. Direct sunlight can also harm the health of rodents, so future rabbit breeders need to provide a special canopy or bush fence.

When placing cages with rabbits indoors, the open part of the structure should be turned towards the windows. This will increase daylight hours for the animals and give them more warmth. Daylight is generally very important for breeding, especially in relation to young individuals. Therefore, in the autumn-winter period, it will be necessary to install additional lamps for additional illumination and heating of the cages.

Do not forget about the general hygiene in the premises where animals are kept. Rabbits produce a lot of waste that needs to be cleaned up in a timely manner. At least once a year, it is recommended to carry out a thorough cleaning of the entire structure and the room itself. This will prevent bacteria and viruses from multiplying.

Arrangement

Rabbit Cage Feeder Options

In addition to walls, floors and ceilings, housing for the permanent maintenance of rabbits provides for the supply of fresh water and feed. Now you can buy ready-made drinkers and feeders in stores or through specialized sites. However, simple feeders and drinkers can be made independently.

Some rabbit hutch designs call for built-in structures, while others require separate feeding attachments.

The floor covering for decorative domestic rabbits must be soft to prevent the development of pododermatitis in the animal. the best options considered sawdust or absorbent textile diapers.

How to cage train a rabbit

If the cage is comfortable, the rabbit will quickly get used to it.

In their natural environment, rabbits live in burrows. With the productive maintenance of animals, it is very difficult to provide them with proper privacy. If the rabbit cage is not designed correctly, has internal sharp corners, small space or is in a noisy environment, the animals will experience stress that will adversely affect their health and reproductive function.

To accustom a rabbit to a new home is quite simple: you just need to provide him with the maximum comfortable conditions for life.

Rabbit breeding is a popular and profitable business v countryside. Animals are kept in special cages that you can make yourself. Using the information and tips in this article, even the most inexperienced rabbit breeder will be able to design the right cage that is ideal for his rabbits.

You can build cages for rabbits with your own hands from improvised materials: unnecessary boards, plywood, chipboard, slate, bricks, metal carvings, tin, etc. The design of the cages also varies, but it is better to choose one that will not take you much time to manufacture and will be convenient for feeding the rabbits, inspecting them and cleaning them regularly.

Types of cages for rabbits and possible DIY materials

Not all types of cells can be made with your own hands, but many of them, with knowledge of the size, availability of drawings and basic skills, will definitely be possible to make. So, what types of houses for an eared tribe exist?

By size and height:

  • simple in one tier,
  • bunk,
  • three-tier,
  • multi-tiered.

For which rabbits:

  • for the young
  • females
  • decorative,
  • giants and dwarfs, etc.

What materials can be made from:

  • tree,
  • metal (iron, etc.),
  • metal profile, etc.

Options can be both summer and winter. There are types for keeping on the street or in an apartment. They can be monolithic or portable, especially if the rabbits are dwarf and kept at home. Houses can also be fattening. There are also industrial facilities, but they will not be discussed.

Some options for homemade rabbit houses in the photo

Wooden with mesh
Combined wood and mesh
From a metal profile and wood using a section
from wood

Dimensional drawings for some cell types

For 2 tiers
Mikhailov's cell
simple circuit
Zolotukhin's cell

General step-by-step instructions for making at home

To engage in rabbit breeding, special investments are not required: you can easily make cheap cages for rabbits, drinkers and feeders yourself, you can prepare hay and branches from the summer, take root crops and vegetables from your own garden. The main expenses will be required only for yes for concentrated feed.

Rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament should live in each cage.

It is recommended to place adults and rabbits with offspring in one- or two-section cages. The standard dimensions of the correct cages for rabbits are: length about 100-120 cm, height 50 cm, width about 70 cm. It is better to keep young animals in a group cage, the size of which corresponds to the number of rabbits. For example, for ten rabbits, a house with the same height and width as mentioned above, but up to 170 cm long, is suitable. It should be remembered that rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age, weight and temperament should live in each cage.

Even novice rabbit breeders will find it easy to figure out how to build a two-section rabbit cage.

Step-by-step production of cages for rabbits:


When keeping rabbits outdoors, cages should be installed on bars so that they rise seventy centimeters above the ground. This will protect the lop-eared from rodents and pets, and it will be much more convenient to maintain the houses. By building a cage from improvised materials, you get an original house for your pets almost for free.

Other rabbit house options

If the suggested tips do not describe the picture of the upcoming work well enough, you should pay attention to the most popular types of cages for keeping and breeding rabbits. They are used by experienced farmers.

Family block - three-section cage

It may seem a little more difficult to make a three-section cage for rabbits, the drawings of which are presented in the photo tab. But in such family blocks it is very convenient to breed rabbits: a breeding rabbit lives in the central compartment of the cage, and females live on the sides. Wooden partitions between the compartments, the cages have manholes with plywood latches, designed to make it easy to plant females for mating with the male and return them back to their compartments.

It is very convenient to breed rabbits in such family blocks.

The frame can be knocked down from the bars, and the side walls, back, nest compartments with doors and partitions can be made from a wide lining. A metal mesh is used for the front wall. In the nesting compartments, it is desirable to provide an attic - a free space between the ceiling and the common roof, where the rabbits can rest from their offspring. Additional convenience of the design lies in the well-thought-out arrangement of feeders and drinkers - food and water in them are not contaminated, they can be filled from the outside.

Mikhailov's mini-farms are an easy way to raise little rabbits

One of the most effective ways to breed rabbits is Mikhailov's mini-farms, which provide intensive rearing of animals with minimal care from the rabbit breeder. The well-thought-out design of Mikhailov's cages provides for automatic cleaning and provision of rabbits with food, heating of water in drinking bowls to the required temperature (which is especially important in winter), heating of the mother liquor to increase the survival rate of newborn rabbits.

Not every rabbit breeder can make Mikhailov's cages with his own hands. But if you wish, you can collect complex structure according to the scheme, which you can easily find on the Internet.

The right houses according to the Zolotukhin method

The well-known rabbit breeder Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin has been successfully breeding rabbits for several decades, such an impressive experience helped him develop his own concept of keeping rabbits at home.

Their design is quite simple, and the manufacture requires materials that can be found in the household of almost everyone.

Features of Zolotukhin cells:

  • the floor in the cells is made solid from slate or boards;
  • no pallets;
  • a narrow strip of a mesh floor is provided only along the rear walls of the cages;
  • the back walls are made at an angle so that the waste of rabbits from the upper tier does not fall on the rabbits of the lower tier;
  • there are no special queen cells - the rabbit herself equips the nest before giving birth;
  • grain feeders are fixed on the doors, which easily flip outward for filling.

After watching the video in the tab to the article, you will understand how to make cages for rabbits of the same type as Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. Moreover, their design is quite simple, and the manufacture requires materials that almost everyone can find on the farm.

How to make your own cages for dwarf rabbits

If you decide to have rabbits at home as pets, the issue with cages will be decided differently. In pet stores, you can now find a variety of cages for decorative rabbits, but it is not necessary to spend money on their purchase - making a cage for a small domestic rabbit will take very little time.

A cage for a dwarf rabbit is made from two side walls 70x70 cm and a back wall 55 cm high, 100 cm long. The back wall must be fixed so that a gap of 15 cm is obtained under the cage. grid. On the front door you also need to nail the grid. Make a mesh hinged lid with a handle. Place a pallet under the cage - the cage for the dwarf rabbit is ready! The material was updated on 03/17/2017

In this article we will tell you how to make a cage for rabbits with your own hands (step by step instructions). Creating cages with your own hands may well be carried out from improvised materials, such as unnecessary boards, pieces of plywood or chipboard, etc.

The design of the cages can vary greatly, but it is best to choose one that will not take much time to build and will be suitable and practical for feeding rabbits, inspecting and cleaning them.

Simple rabbit cage design

Most effective way rabbit breeding are Mikhailov's mini-farms, which can provide intensive rearing of rabbits with minimal cost time for the care of the animals by the farmer.

The design of Mikhailov's cells is very well thought out and it provides for automatic cleaning and provision of animals with food, water heating in drinking bowls, which is really important in the cold season, as well as heating the mother liquor in order to increase the percentage of survival in newborns in the winter.

In order to start breeding rabbits, no special costs are required: rabbit cages, drinkers, and feeders can be made independently, hay and branches can be prepared in the summer, root crops and vegetables can be taken in your garden.


Mikhailov cell design

The largest part of the costs will be spent on animal vaccination and feed concentration.

It is best to place adult rabbits and rabbits with rabbits in two-section cages. These dimensions are usually used as a guideline for building cages: a cage is one hundred and twenty centimeters long, a cage is fifty centimeters high, and a cage is seventy centimeters wide.

young growth

Young animals need to be kept in a large group cage, which, with its size, will correspond to the number of rabbits.

For example, for eight rabbits, a cage with a height and width as in the picture above is suitable. It is necessary to take into account the fact that in each cage it is necessary to place rabbits of the same sex, approximately the same age and weight.

Do-it-yourself rabbit cage step by step instructions:


First you need to make a frame from wooden beams, its height should be 55 centimeters, its length is 240 centimeters, the back is thirty-five centimeters, and the front is fifty-five centimeters;

It is necessary to provide for the presence of nesting compartments inside, where a queen cell for a rabbit will subsequently be inserted or a small house will be placed;

A partition with an opening for the passage of rabbits is placed between the nesting compartment and the stern compartment;

  • The roof is made on hinges so that, if necessary, it could rise;
  • In the nesting compartment, the door must be made solid, of wood, and
  • in the aft compartment, the doors are made of metal mesh with small cells;
  • the floor must be laid with slats, with a gap of one and a half centimeters;
  • in the nesting compartment, the wooden floor should be solid;
  • under the cage you need to install a pallet;
  • after making a cage for breeding rabbits, they need to be equipped from the inside: grain feeders are made, shelves and a nursery are installed;

If the rabbits are kept outdoors, the cages must be placed on bars so that they rise about seventy centimeters above the ground. This should keep the rabbits away from rodents and other animals.


This is how a step-by-step instruction for creating a cage for rabbits with your own hands looks like. With simple materials and a little effort, you can create your own rabbit farm and run a fairly successful farm.

There are special rules that should be taken into account when building a rabbitry, regardless of its size.

1. The size of the cage should be just such that the rabbits can move freely and do not interfere with each other to eat, sleep and especially play. If there is not enough space in the cage, then the rabbits will begin to be lazy, and this will have a very negative effect on them. It is possible that such individuals will not have offspring at all.

2. On three to four rabbits, it is necessary to allocate a separate space. However, it should be quite spacious. If a person decides to start breeding rabbits, one should keep the little rabbits with their mothers because they are in charge of feeding them.

3. One of the cages should always remain free, as not all rabbits reach required size and weight. In order to feed them right size they are simply placed and fattened separately, and this naturally requires a separate cage.

DIY rabbit cage video compilation

https://youtu.be/addXcSFhn8g