Tower of the tour, description of the device.
The mobile tower is a spatial tower-type structure made of flat frames with three steps.
Parallel frames fit into the dumbbell sleeves and form a section. To ensure the rigidity of the structure itself, the sections are interconnected with ties, which are attached to the locks of the dumbbells. The lower sections are installed on two bases, which are interconnected by a volumetric diagonal.
The bases have four screw supports and four wheels. The wheels are used to move the tower. The screw feet compensate for unevenness in the bearing surface. The tower with the help of screw supports must be installed so that the wheels do not touch the supporting surface by 2 mm.
The tower has a set of decks, which consists of two types - solid and with a hatch.
To ensure stability, the tower can be equipped with stabilizers, which are fastened with clamps to the main structure of the tower.
Safety measures during operation.
The tower must be installed strictly vertically using screw supports. The platform deck must have a level surface.
The tower can be equipped with stabilizers for maximum stability. If there is a danger of overturning by wind load or other factors, the tower must be reinforced to the building with guy wires as close as possible to the upper tier. It is necessary to comply with the requirements of SNiP Sh-4-80 "Safety in construction" and GOST 24258-88.
Tour tower assembly instructions.
Option 1.
1. Drawing of the frame (a flag lock is shown on the leader). 2. Drawing of the fence frame.
3. Drawing of the horizontal connection. 4. Drawing of a diagonal connection.
5. Drawing of the base (main dimensions).
6. Drawing of the flooring with a hatch. and 7. Drawing of flooring without hatch.
8. Drawing of the stabilizer support.
9. Drawing of the anchor plug and bracket (supplied in the kit starting from a height of 14 meters).
Option 2.
This is a truly versatile building structure designed for work at heights. The main difference between the scaffold tower and other forests is its high mobility and rather compact dimensions. All this allows not only to work at high heights, but also to move it from one workplace to another in a short time. Sometimes a tour tower is almost irreplaceable, but what if there is no opportunity to buy it at the moment? In this case, there is only one way out, to make it yourself.
What materials will be needed to make a tour tower?
Homemade tour can be made in two versions: collapsible and non-collapsible. The collapsible version is better both in terms of transportation and storage. After all, it is much easier to disassemble the tour and bring it into the room when it is not needed, and then reassemble it when it is needed, than to store it on the street. To make a collapsible tower, you will need the following materials:
Profile pipe with a diameter of 30 mm - from this pipe, the stands for the tower will subsequently be made;
Ordinary pipe with a diameter of 15mm - this pipe will act as oblique couplers for the tower, which will give it higher strength and reliability;
Profile pipe with a diameter of 25 mm - this pipe will need very little and all of it will be used to create jumpers;
Wheels for tower tours - in fact, they will give the tour high mobility;
How to start making a tower?
The first step is to cut a 15mm pipe into 2m sections, the number of these sections will depend on the number of derrick sections being erected. One section will take 4 such segments. Then these segments need to be flattened at the ends, this is necessary so that it is more convenient to attach them to the tower. In order for them to crumple better, you can make small longitudinal cuts.
The next step is to make stands for the tower, for this you need to cut a 30mm profile pipe into lengths of 1.5m and 0.74m. Cuts 1.5m long (2 per rack) will be the legs of the rack, and 0.74m long (4 per rack) will be steps. Then all this must be welded into a single structure so that the distance between the steps does not exceed 30 cm. Also at this stage, the wheels should be welded to the struts.
The next step will be the manufacture of jumpers for the tower, for this we cut a profiled pipe with a diameter of 25 mm into segments of 20-25 cm, as well as a profiled pipe with a diameter of 30 mm into pieces of 4-6 cm. Then we thread 25mm pieces of 30mm approximately to the middle and fasten them with welding. The final touch before assembling the tower is to drill a hole for the anchor bolt, which will hold the tie rods and posts together.
It is also worth noting that a self-made tour tower is a rather bad alternative to a factory one. It is heavier and less durable and reliable. Self-made towers do not allow working at significant heights and it is rather a temporary short-lived means on which you can work only at your own peril and risk. Therefore, if possible, it is still worth buying a factory-made tour, since they are already not as expensive as before.
The height of a person is less than the height of the house, therefore, it is impossible to perform wall masonry or facade decoration without scaffolding or scaffolding. These designs allow you to work safely at heights and make it possible to always have a stock of consumables on hand.
Builders have their own terminology used to refer to such fixtures.
They call forests sufficiently long and high structures. Scaffolds "goats" are usually called low portable tables, which can accommodate no more than two people.
If you have to lay walls, insulate, repair or decorate the facade, then think in advance about what kind of scaffolding or scaffolding you will need for work. For our part, we will tell you how to do scaffolding do it yourself strong and stable, saving a lot of money on their rental.
Scaffolding design options
Despite the wide variety of types of scaffolding, their structures contain elements that are identical in purpose:
- Vertical struts (take the workload and transfer it to the ground).
- Diagonal and horizontal ties (provide spatial rigidity of the frame).
- Lintels (short side elements of the scaffolding on which the flooring is laid).
- Flooring (boards knocked down between themselves, serving as a working platform for builders).
- Stubborn mows (prevent forests from tipping over).
- Railings (protects workers from falling).
- Ladders (used for lifting and lowering from work sites).
The material for assembling scaffolding and scaffolding is traditionally wood or metal.. Wooden structure cheaper than steel, but withstands no more than two or three re-assemblies. After that, it is only suitable for firewood.
Metal scaffolding is several times more expensive than wooden scaffolding, but there are no restrictions on the number of cycles of use. They are easy to dismantle and move to a new location. Their design allows to build up additional tiers in the course of work, increasing the working height.
If your plans include the construction of several residential buildings and outbuildings, then it is better to make homemade scaffolding from profile metal. If high-rise work will be carried out only once and at one object, then it is more profitable to assemble a structure from beams and boards.
Features of making wooden and metal scaffolding with your own hands
Before starting the procurement of parts for assembly, a schematic drawing should be made and the main dimensions of the structure should be put on it.
There is no need to fantasize here, since the construction practice has already determined the optimal dimensions of the scaffolding:
- maximum construction height - 6 meters;
- the distance between the racks is from 2.0 to 2.5 meters;
- working floor width - 1 meter.
Ergonomics has established that maximum productivity is achieved when the hands of the builder during work are 30-40 cm below chest level. Therefore, the jumpers for installing the first flooring must be placed at a height of 40-50 cm from the ground level. This saves you the hassle of hammering together low scaffolding.
It is better to provide fastenings for the flooring of the second level at a height of 180-200 cm. The third flooring is placed at the level of 360-400 cm.
If you decide to make a structure from boards, then buy the following set of lumber and fasteners in advance:
- For cutting racks and thrust braces - a beam with a section of 10x10 cm or boards with a width of at least 10 cm and a thickness of 5 cm.
- Spacers, ties and railings can be made from edged boards"Thirty".
- For the flooring and lintels on which it will lie, boards 4-5 cm thick will be required.
When choosing between nails and self-tapping screws, keep in mind that nails are more difficult to remove when dismantling the scaffolding. Self-tapping screws, on the other hand, are quickly unscrewed from wood with a screwdriver. However, they work worse than nails for fracture, since they are made of brittle hardened steel. Therefore, for the manufacture of small scaffolding, it is possible to recommend the use of nails, and for long and high structures - self-tapping screws.
Scaffolding from boards is collected in the following order:
- on a flat area, parallel to each other, lay out 4 racks of a bar or board, cut "to size" according to the height of the scaffolding;
- the racks are connected with horizontal jumpers on which the working floor will be laid;
- the two obtained frames "ladders" are placed vertically one against the other and connected with diagonal and horizontal ties;
- plank flooring is placed on horizontal lintels and fastened;
- scaffolding is fixed on two lateral abutment slopes;
- railings are nailed onto the racks, a ladder is attached and fixed for climbing.
If there is a need to install two or more sections of wooden scaffolding, then they can be tied together with wide pieces of boards, stuffing them onto adjacent racks. To prevent nails from splitting short boards, drill holes in them before hammering.
Scaffolding from shaped pipe in their design they are similar to wooden ones. The difference between the two lies in the use of adapters. They are used to increase the "number of storeys" of a metal structure.
A set of blanks for assembling one section includes the following elements:
- Profile pipe 30x30 or 40x40 mm for racks and lintels (4 sections of 1.5 m and 4 sections of 1 meter).
- Thin-walled round tube with a diameter of 20 mm (4 pieces of 2 meters for diagonal ties).
- Profile pipe 25x25 mm or 35x35 mm (8 sections of 10 cm for the manufacture of adapters and thrust bearings). For the manufacture of handrails, you can take the same pipe - 1 piece 2 meters long.
- Steel plates 10x10 cm with a thickness of 2-3 mm (4 pieces) for thrust bearings;
- 10 bolts with nuts and washers for connecting the diagonal braces to each other and attaching them to the frame posts.
The assembly of a single-level section of metal scaffolding consists of several operations:
- to the assembly board ( OSB sheet) they rigidly fix the scaffold racks with clamps (high accuracy when working with metal is a very important factor);
- horizontal jumpers are welded to the racks;
- adapters from pipe scraps are inserted into the upper ends of the racks by 5 cm and fixed by welding;
- removing the racks with jumpers from the assembly board, they are turned over 90 degrees and in this position they are again fixed to the board with clamps;
- the ends and the middle of thin-walled pipes intended for diagonal stretching are flattened with a hammer and drilled into holes for bolts;
- tightening the two diagonal ties in the middle with a bolt, they are placed on the racks and mark the places for drilling holes;
- the ties are fixed to the uprights with bolts and tightened with nuts;
- holes are drilled on the posts and railings for bolted connections;
- plates (thrust bearings) are welded to the pipe sections;
- the assembled structure is placed vertically and thrust bearings are inserted into the lower ends of the pipes;
- on the side jumpers the flooring is laid from the board "forty".
Helpful advice: to prevent the longitudinal displacement of the flooring, steel corners 30x30 mm must be screwed to its bottom at the point of contact with the lintels.
Diagonal ties must be fixed on one side of the scaffolding, and horizontal ties on the other, so that they do not interfere with each other during assembly.
If the installation of scaffolding is carried out with the build-up of the section of the third tier (4.5 meters), then holes must be made in its racks for attaching the profile pipe of the persistent cut, which protects the structure from falling.
In the lower and upper part of the posts of each section, it is necessary to drill holes for bolted connections with other sections (when building scaffolds in length).
The main types of wild boar hunting in the Russian tradition were hound hunting, hunting by corral, from the approach or from an ambush on a zhivka. Hound hunting is the most expensive in terms of training and keeping dogs; hunting by corral requires correct organization and large human resources. These types of hunts are increasingly becoming elite hunts. Most accessible view wild boar hunt - in the fat. This type of hunting also requires special training, knowledge of all the specifics of animal behavior, local conditions, as well as equipping feeding grounds and shelter for the shooter. The most common boar hunt is from a tower.
Hunting on a zhivka from a tower
Hunting on zhivka requires a hunter to have a good knowledge of the area, the behavior of the local population of wild boars. Usually, hunting is carried out on artificial feeding grounds, or on well-known permanent places of wild boar fat on agricultural fields or natural forage lands. Such lands can be oak forests and cedars with a large number of acorns and cones, flooded meadows and wetlands near rivers and lakes, where there is a sufficient amount of succulent grasses and roots. The wild boar begins to feed in the evening; it may come to artificial, man-made feeding grounds a little earlier. In natural areas, the herd usually does not change its daily schedule.
Walking hunting is unsafe and requires well-developed hunting skills for this animal. Therefore, the most rational is to hunt wild boar from a tower. These structures are set up in places where animals are most likely to appear and are subdivided into stationary and mobile by their type. The towers can be located both along the edge of the feeding platform, at the edge of a forest or the edge of a swamp, and on open place... When installed in an open area, a stationary tower should be installed long before the start of hunting at these sites. It is necessary that the boars get used to the type of structure. However, this requirement is relevant when equipping an ambush of various designs and options.
There are many factors to consider when setting up a boar hunting tower. Possible directions of the animal's approach, the direction of the wind in different time days, the direction of the sun's rays, which can blind the hunter, the illumination of the area and the place of entry. The wild boar does not see very well, the herd with young animals makes quite a lot of noise when moving, therefore, the animal primarily relies on its sense of smell. Air flows should be taken into account first.... Here are some tips:
- there are always air turbulences at the edge of the forest and they must be taken into account;
- if the rising sun is behind the hunter's back, then its rays will first heat up the open space in front of the tower and cold air will pull from the forest. When the sun sets, the direction is reversed, i.e. from an open place to the edge;
- the line of roads, glades, stream beds are natural conductors of air, they are always "pulled" by the breeze.
It is necessary to accurately calculate the distance of the shot, this is exactly the factor that sometimes forces you to put the tower in an open place. Considering all factors, you can find the most optimal place for the installation of the structure. If there is such an opportunity, then they will equip two towers for hunting under different conditions.
Tower design features
As already mentioned, a hunting tower can be stationary or portable. Stationary towers are equipped with the forces of hunting farms and are solid wooden structures in which you can not only wait for the arrival of the animal for a long time, but spend the night if necessary, wait out the bad weather.
Often these are storage sheds with walls and a roof. The roof for a stationary tower is an obligatory element, and the walls can be minimized depending on the climate. Briefly, such structures can be characterized by several parameters recommended in the special literature for hunting farms. Optimal height platform 4 - 4.5 meters, the area of the platform is not less than 1.5 x 1.5 meters, corner supports (pillars) are traditionally arranged in an amount of 4 pieces. The angle of inclination of the stairs is recommended 65˚-75˚ from the horizontal, the distance between the rungs is 25-30 cm.
The strongest geometric figure is a triangle, the most stable vertical structure is a pyramid. It is logical to build a tower on three pillars, but in this case, many other problems would appear, such as the device and fastening of the platform, the construction of walls or just a support under the shooter's back. The compromise lies in the correct separation of the supports at a slight angle to the vertical and setting them along the support area, like a truncated triangle. The rungs on the stairs must be fastened to the rails on the longitudinal poles for better support... The platform is made from both planks and trimmed logs. Between the laid elements, gaps must be left for quick drying. A lining can be placed on the floor of the storage shed. After all, waiting for a boar hunt can last several hours.
How to build a hunting tower yourself?
Most often, a hunting tower is built by one hunter or a group on the grounds common use and looks more modest. It can be an analogue of a stationary tower, smaller in size, or simplified version in the form of a ladder with a small platform, which rests on a fixed support, leans against a tree. This option is closer to the mobile one, the tower can be moved depending on the conditions.
How to build a tower with your own hands? The main characteristics of the tower are retained. But there are some nuances. Individual hunters believe that a platform height of 3-3.5 meters is quite enough, and the platform can be a wide comfortable bench for sitting with a foot rest and a horizontal bar to support the weapon. The most acceptable option is to install a tower in a sparse forest near a forage clearing or swamp, at the edge of the forest near the fields. In this case, an adult tree with a wide crown is chosen, which can serve as both a roof from precipitation and a camouflage at the same time. A platform is attached to it, large branches of the same tree can be used. The other two supports are made from trunks with a diameter of at least 8 cm in the upper cut, they serve as a reliable support for the platform in its front part. This should not be neglected - the tower should provide convenience for waiting, and a wide platform can only be reliably held in this way.
A tower, especially if it is built against a tree, must have all the elements well fitted to each other.... When swaying by the wind, or simply moving a person on it, these elements should not creak. That is why bolting is preferred over nails or twists. The ladder is arranged from the side, but not from the front. This ensures better view and allows you to arrange a support for the weapon. If the platform is arranged seated, then the support under the legs should be located in such a way that the hunter's legs do not hang down, but rest tightly in a bent state, preventing leakage. The crossbar at the level of the chest for supporting the weapon is made of two elements, thus freeing the arms.
Building a tower in an open area is much more time consuming. Here, the stability of the structure is in the first place. For supports-racks are selected coniferous trees diameters in the butt of at least 16 cm. Design features have already been considered, the racks are set in the form of a pyramid with a truncated triangle support. The area itself is chosen depending on the height of the platform installation, but the distance between the posts must be at least one third of the width of the platform in the corresponding direction. There are two ways to strengthen supports in the ground. In the first case, the bottom of the support is dug into the ground by 50-70 cm, the bottom is supplied with a small crossbar, which is attached to the notch or washed down and prevents the support from being pulled out of the hole. The second way is to strengthen on wooden support a piece of metal channel with bolts, and then, driving it into the ground. This method is simpler, but does not provide a rigid attachment of the supports in the ground when they swing.
Non-standard methods of construction of hunting towers
A portable tower is the logical result of the desire to move the tower to another location. Massive wooden ladder with a light seating platform at its upper end - ready-made solution this problem. In the manufacture of a mobile tower, some parameters have to be compromised. For example, the height of the installation of the platform is unlikely to be more than 3 meters, and the width of the platform will be sufficient just for sitting without any conveniences. The structure itself should provide for a rigid attachment of the platform to the vertical supports using braces and have a support at the back of the back. Often such support is a continuation of these slopes, serves as support for the elbows, and the support for the back is arranged with a piece of tarpaulin stretched between them.
Folding mobile towers made of aluminum have recently appeared on the hunting market. Their design is fully consistent with the description above, but they are much lighter and more convenient. Assembled can be carried in a car body or trunk.
What if there are no large trees near the wild boar feeding area? In this case, in some regions, hunters build a storage shed on several young trees, connecting them with tops. You cannot do without pinning the tops. Otherwise, with any movement of the arrow, with any light wind, the structure will sway and creak. The pinch with the top is done as high as possible. The trees do not have to be intertwined with tops, but there should be tension in the "dome". Then, between the trunks at the selected height, transverse crossbars are attached, and the platform is laid on them. Further, the technology is similar to those described above. The supports in this version are as follows - the trees should be at least 10 cm at the level of the platform fastening, the number of support trunks should not be more than four and not less than three, all fastenings should be made in the "notch" or "washed down". The rest will be prompted by the hunter's fantasy and carpentry skills.
If you decide to make scaffolding, then you will have to choose from two materials: wood or metal. In the first case, you will have a disposable structure that anyone who knows how to work with wood can make, and in the second, it is reusable, but also quite easy to make. In this article, we will tell you how to make scaffolding with your own hands from metal (shaped pipe), as well as from wood (boards), we will demonstrate diagrams, photo and video instructions.
Although metal or wood is mainly used for the manufacture of scaffolds, they can differ in the method of fastening, and, accordingly, have different functional elements in their design. So, let's consider the main types of forests.
Component elements are connected with a special wedge fixation. Scaffolding of this design is highly reliable. They are able to withstand quite heavy loads. Moreover, they are easy to use, they are quickly assembled and disassembled. The use of wedge scaffolding is especially important in the construction and lifting of heavy materials and units.
The main element of this design is a rigidly mounted frame. They are mainly used for painting or plastering works... The frame in this design is connected with horizontal struts and diagonal braces due to nodal connections. The main advantage of frame scaffolds is their low cost. Their construction will not require large investments.
In these woods, the knot of the joint, as the name implies, is the pin. This type of scaffolding is very popular with builders as it is very easy to assemble and disassemble them directly on the construction site. It often takes a day or two to assemble scaffolding. In this case, assembling the pin scaffolds will not take much time.
If the object being renovated has a complex configuration, then yoke scaffolding is an excellent solution. The fastening method used is professional. And for their manufacture, height and size play an important role. working area, the distance between the tiers and the spacing of the racks. All this is selected individually at each facility.
We suggest you familiarize yourself with a simple guide to making scaffolding from boards. To do this, follow a few simple sequential steps:
- Parallel to each other on a flat area, lay out 4 racks or boards. Their size should immediately correspond to the height of the scaffolding.
- The racks are connected to each other with horizontal jumpers, on which the flooring will later be laid.
- Place the prepared 2 frames horizontally opposite each other, tie them diagonally and horizontally with boards that will serve as ties.
- On horizontal screeds, lay the flooring from the boards and attach it to the lintels with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the railing to the racks and fix the ladder.
If it is necessary to lengthen the structure of the scaffolding, connect several similar sections of boards to each other. Boards are stuffed onto support posts.
When assembling wooden scaffolding, if nails are used, it is recommended to pre-drill the holes so that the boards do not split.
Design
All forests are composed of the following elements:
- racks;
- diagonal and horizontal struts (they add spatial strength to the structure);
- lintels for flooring;
- plank flooring on which the person will stand;
- stops (to create the stability of the scaffolding and prevent them from falling away from the wall);
- a protective element (so that a person standing on the flooring does not fall down);
- ladder (stepladder) to climb to the desired level of the scaffolding.
Of wood and planks
There are a lot of tips on how to make scaffolding on the Internet. Moreover, the recommended designs differ mainly from each other only in the thickness of the board and the size of the scaffolding themselves. So that you do not get confused in all this "diversity", try to focus on the following values:
Getting started:
- Prepare the necessary materials in advance:
- boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm and a width of 100 mm (or round timber, or a beam of 10x10 cm) - for racks and stops;
- boards for spacers and fences 30 mm thick;
- boards for lintels and flooring 50 mm thick;
- nails (screws in this case are less reliable).
Photo instruction
We bring to your attention a series of photos on how to make your own wooden scaffolding:
From a profile pipe
Now about how to make scaffolding (collapsible) from metal (dimensions of one section: height - 1.5 meters, width 1 meter, length 1.65 meters). Determine the number of sections based on the height of the scaffolding you need.
- Prepare the necessary materials:
- for racks - profile pipe (square section) 30x30 mm - length 1500 mm;
- for spacers - a pipe with a diameter of 15 mm;
- for connecting inserts (adapters) - profile pipe 25x25 mm;
- make the flooring from boards 40-50 mm thick and 210-220 cm long.
- for diagonal elements - 2 meters each;
- for horizontal elements connecting the posts from the sides of the structure - 96 cm each.
"Pros and cons"
Firstly, scaffolding is not a small construction scaffold, but rather a cumbersome structure that will need to be stored somewhere after the need for it disappears.
Wooden scaffolding, of course, can then be disassembled, but the work is laborious, and the boards, if you do not need them in the near future, also need to be folded somewhere. Do not forget that wooden scaffolding is assembled with nails, not self-tapping screws, so the boards will no longer be completely intact. In addition, when working on scaffolding, the wood is often stained with mortar or paint.
Homemade metal scaffolding can not only be disassembled, but also leased out in the future.
Secondly, non-prefabricated scaffolding is designed to work at the maximum level of the second floor (from the ground). On the greater height the exploitation of makeshift forests becomes dangerous.
Thirdly, scaffolding is rarely required (only for repairing the facade of a building), so the assembly and disassembly of such a temporary structure is not profitable in terms of the time spent on this work.
Fourthly, scaffolding often has to be made long (for example, at least 6 meters for siding installation). Accordingly, their weight increases, and rearranging home-made wooden scaffolding to the other side of the house becomes a problem even for three or four people.
It is worth thinking about forests even at the design stage of a house.
If facade work if you do not plan to do it yourself (but you are going to hire a construction team), then you do not need to think too much about scaffolding, since builders usually come to the site with their scaffolding and scaffolding.
However, at the end of construction (and after some time), scaffolding may be needed to carry out small facade renovation works... Can this be avoided?
Certainly. And to begin with, make sure that the facade of your house does not require renovation for many years. To do this, it is enough to use facing bricks when erecting walls. Now it is produced by many manufacturers and at the same time in a fairly large range of colors.
And here are the others facing materials(such as siding, plaster and others) will periodically require your attention and, accordingly, additional costs, since you will not be able to make scaffolding (buy or rent) for free.
Video
From this video you will learn how to make scaffolding for apartment renovation:
Photo
The photos show various designs scaffolding:
Scheme
The diagrams will help you design your own scaffolding:
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