We build a wooden staircase to the second floor of the house with our own hands. How to make a wooden staircase to the second floor with your own hands

14.06.2019

Some people believe that the manufacture of stairs is a very complex and time-consuming process and it is better to entrust it to professionals. Perhaps they are right, but in fact, with a little free time, desire, a small set of tools, you are able to install the stairs yourself. Well, so that you do not get confused and do not go astray when building stairs in your private house, we have prepared this article.

Types of stairs

According to their design, stairs are divided into many types and subspecies. Before you start building stairs to the second floor, you need to decide on its type, because their classification is based on many features:

according to their purpose, they are divided into the main ones, which are used regularly in Everyday life; auxiliary (these include ladders for the roof, service and emergency ladders). There are also front stairs, garden and park stairs, moving (escalator);

depending on location distinguish between internal stairs, street stairs, intra-apartment and intra-house;
according to the material used distinguish: wooden (from oak, pine, beech, larch, ash, cedar), concrete (mainly stairs are made from this material in most residential and industrial premises), reinforced concrete, brick, metal, forged, rope, glass and plastic, natural and artificial stones; there are also various combined options;
stairs are subdivided by design type: kosour, bowstring, on the bolts, cantilever stairs (soaring stairs), modular;
by the presence of a riser distinguish between open, closed and semi-closed stairs;
by the number and configuration of marches stairs are divided into single-flight, multi-flight, rotary (P-shaped, L-shaped stairs and spiral interfloor stairs can be made rotary);

depending on the form distinguish between straight, winder steps and steps called "goose step".

A staircase with your own hands can become a home decoration and a source of pride. Its creation is a very exciting process, and determining the type of stairs you want to make is the most initial and very important stage of construction, which will help you most fully form an idea of how the whole structure should look like.

The main components of the stairs

The main details of the stairs will largely depend on what type of structure you have chosen for the structure.

A very interesting and quite budgetary option for a staircase can be a staircase made of logs in a country house or in a private house in the village. In this example, we will try to analyze all possible combinations and options for the necessary elements of the stairs.

List of required items:

staircase frame - a do-it-yourself log staircase can be made on a metal frame (not quite a budget option due to the high cost of metal), but this option is rarely used due to the fact that a log staircase will look most harmonious when using wooden stringers, in addition, it is also possible design option on the rails using railing posts and steps as a supporting structure;
steps - for the stairs themselves, logs will be used, they must first be cut in half, it will be more convenient to do this with a circular saw;
mid-flight spans and turning platforms dividing them;
railings - possible various options, both wooden, forged, metal, and combined, it all depends on your design decisions;
balusters - racks for railings;
riser - the use of a riser in this version of the stairs is not advisable.

Requirements for the design of stairs

During the construction of stairs, it is necessary to adhere to the standards developed and specified in GOST and SNiP. Particular attention should be paid to the following indicators:

a flight of stairs, if it is not observed, the staircase may turn out to be too steep;

, necessary for a comfortable ascent or descent, the most optimal width of the steps (tread) is the width sufficient to fully accommodate the foot on it;
(riser) - a very important parameter, observing which, you can reduce the load on many muscle groups and make it easier to climb / descend;

also a very important parameter is the size of the opening in the ceiling, because it also determines how comfortable it will be to climb the stairs, especially for tall people. With insufficient opening, going up or down the stairs, a person will be forced to bend over so as not to hit his head.

Assembly and installation instructions

Probably the most important thing when installing stairs with your own hands is step-by-step instruction, because in order not to miss even the slightest detail, you must have an accurate plan of action. There are many different examples in which people, believing that “it will work out for me” or “and so it should hold, where will it go”, eventually they are faced with the fact that the constructed staircase is simply not suitable for use and, in order to correct the admitted mistake, most often you have to redo a lot or even start all over again.

After all, your task is not just to make a staircase so that it is, it is necessary to make an integral part of the house that will serve for a long time, reliably and become part of the interior, so speed in these matters is not an assistant.

Below we will analyze the main points that you need to pay attention to:

preparatory stage (to determine the materials used, form and location);
calculations (the most important stage in technical terms, without which, you risk making many mistakes that will lead to the impossibility of using the stairs in the future);
installation and installation;
stage of processing, design, finishing.

How to make a staircase to the second floor of glass

Stairs to the second floor made of glass, probably one of the most unusual and interesting options staircase execution. Such a staircase looks very easy in the interior, a huge plus is that it can, both be completely invisible, and be key element interior with proper design and lighting.

A glass staircase is probably almost the only type of staircase that is difficult to make yourself without the help of professionals.

Most of the stairs can still be done independently, depending on the type of design chosen:

on a metal frame;
on the pains;
cantilever staircase.

More detailed information about each type of construction can be found on our website.

The most difficult and crucial moment is the preparation of glass steps and railings. The thing is that in order for the glass to be strong enough and withstand the necessary load, it must go through the stages of hardening and gluing in order to ensure maximum resistance to possible loads. In terms of reliability, such a ladder is not inferior to analogues made of wood and metal.

The thickness of the glass steps may vary depending on the project, but it should not be less than 19 mm.

At first glance, it may seem that the glass will be slippery and such a staircase can be dangerous, for this the steps must undergo special treatment, the surface is made a little rough and a special coating is applied to it, which prevents slipping.

It is dangerous to use glass stairs outdoors. From moisture or frost, the glass will be very slippery and this can lead to falls and injuries. It is also not recommended to use such a ladder in indoor areas with high humidity.

How to make a wrought iron staircase at home

Forging is the most beautiful and elegant material for stairs. Wrought iron stairs quite often attract the eye, creating a feeling of a truly royal interior.

Wrought iron stairs are used not only indoors, very often they are installed on the veranda, terrace.

Creating a forged staircase with your own hands in most cases is only possible using the "cold forging" technology. For hot forging, a special hearth (furnace) will be needed to heat the metal. AT financial plan hot forging is a more expensive method and is impractical for small-scale production at home for one's own needs.

Consider Technology cold forging. Although it is cheaper than hot, it also requires an additional tool. In the very simple version a vice, a gas wrench, a hammer are needed, but with such a set of tools it is difficult to create many of the same type of parts for the stairs. To do this, you need to use a specialized tool:

snail - with its help, it is possible to make a spiral from a rod with a diameter of up to 12 mm;

bending - allows you to bend the bar both in an arc and at a certain angle;

flashlight - with its help it is possible to make artistic elements, such as lighting lanterns and baskets from a bar (up to 16 mm for a square section and up to 30 mm for a round one);

wave - skipping a round or square bar, you can get a sinusoidal element. Dimensions are set individually;

twister - the bar on the equipment can be bent around the axis several times. Outwardly, it resembles a flashlight; it works with the same diameter of workpieces.

After all the elements have been given the necessary pattern and bend, a welding machine is required to connect all the elements. At each point where the elements are connected to each other and to the frame, it is necessary to make small spot seams so that, if necessary, it can be torn off and made changes. After the railing is assembled, all connections should be thoroughly boiled, cleaned and processed.

How to make a wooden staircase in the country?

The warmest material for stairs is wood, it brings additional warmth to the cozy atmosphere of the house. Wood is probably the most malleable material with which you can make stair elements in a variety of shapes and styles, from classic rectangular and strict to carved, with various curves and shapes.

Before proceeding with the manufacture of stairs, it is necessary to carry out full calculations of all parameters, the width of the stairs, the height of the steps, the angle of inclination of the stairs and, of course, determine the type of structure. You also select the type of wood that will be used for the stairs.

When making a house from a log house, you will have to go through the following steps for installing a log staircase:

Rounded logs will act as stringers in this staircase. First, in the logs, it is necessary to prepare semicircular recesses of the same diameter as in the logs used for the steps.
Steps are available in two versions. Sawing a log into two identical parts in half, we get two steps. Or you can make a sample in the middle of the log in such a way that the log remains round at the edges, and flat in the middle. It is necessary to provide that this flat part is so wide that two people can pass on the stairs.

The final step in the installation of any wooden staircase is wood processing. Wood is prone to decay, destruction is possible due to the formation of mold or insects, and a fire of wood is also a very dangerous moment, in order to eliminate all of the above points, it is necessary to treat the wood with antiseptics and flame retardants. Please note that some elements need to be processed before you fully assemble the stairs, because some parts will then be inaccessible, as they will overlap each other, such as notches on the stringers.

We have given a variant of the simplest single-flight log staircase. Depending on the features of the building, the height of the ceilings, the space for the stairs, there are many options for stairs, with turntables, spiral ones. Wooden stairs also do not have to be log or carved. Depending on the design, there are many modern options wooden stairs, which in their uniqueness can compete with glass stairs.

How to build a concrete staircase at home

If you decide to build, then this design will be the most durable, reliable and will last longer than its counterparts from other materials. Durability and strength are achieved subject to all building standards, both in terms of the size of the stairs (so that the spans are not too long, sagging, without proper reinforcement), and in terms of use quality materials in the right proportions.

With a properly built-in structure (staircase formwork), it is possible to build a wide variety of stairs - from classic straight single-flight or corner stairs to round (spiral). It is also possible to build stairs according to an individual design project with the craziest forms.

Consider the step-by-step construction of a staircase in a private house with your own hands:

As we wrote earlier on initial stage(at the design stage), in order to achieve the required structural strength, it is necessary to perform all calculations according to the selected type of stairs. The main thing to remember is that any non-standard staircase requires careful attention to the calculations.
At the next stage, it is necessary to prepare the formwork, the formwork design must be strong, so special attention should be paid to the materials used. Boards or plywood from 20 mm are best suited, beams for supports of at least 50x100 mm. In the case of semicircular staircase elements, it is better to use thin sheet metal, it is strong enough, will not break under the weight of concrete and is quite elastic to give the steps a rounded shape. The weight of 1 m 3 of concrete is 2-2.5 tons. This must be remembered when selecting materials for formwork. The connection of formwork elements is best done using self-tapping screws.

The reinforced frame gives additional reliability to the stairs, the presence of which is mandatory in order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the concrete, the presence of which can lead to the collapse of the entire structure. The metal frame is formed from reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm. It is important at the stage of pouring the floor and ceilings at the joints with the stairs to leave protruding reinforcement to connect it with the metal structure of the stairs.
Finally, the pour stage. The quality of concrete must be at least B 15 (the quality of cement is at least 400), it is allowed to use special stabilizers and water repellents that increase the strength of concrete. It is necessary to fill the entire staircase at once. If there are a large number of marches, the fill should be divided into spans.
After pouring, it is required to remove all air bubbles from the concrete. To do this, you need a special vibration tool. It plunges into the already poured concrete, under the action of vibration the air will come to the surface, this increases the strength of the concrete, eliminating porosity.
In conclusion, the concrete must harden and become more durable, for this it is necessary to periodically moisten the concrete, in hot weather the stairs must be covered with a film to slow down the evaporation of moisture. If this is not done, cracks form, due to the fact that the concrete dried faster than it hardened. After 20-30 days, the concrete will gain the necessary strength, after which the film and formwork can be removed.

Do-it-yourself metal staircase in a cottage

We have already considered one of the types of metal stairs above (forged stairs), in this section we will consider a simpler version of building stairs to the second floor from metal.

Of course, from this material it is possible to build not only a simple staircase, but also the most unique, it all depends on your project and your abilities. We, in turn, will try to describe as clearly as possible all the actions that you will need to perform so that you get exactly the staircase that you intended.

As with the construction of any staircase, at the initial stage you need to make all the calculations according to the chosen staircase option. Depending on the type of construction, dimensions and calculations, you should choose materials for your future stairs.

In this article we will tell you about a simple single-flight metal staircase.

The stringer for the stairs will be made of a channel or a rectangular pipe 80x100 mm. Two channels must be placed on edge at a distance according to the design width of your stairs.

If the flight of stairs needs to be made long, then it is necessary to install retaining pillars.
Next, fillies must be welded to the channel, which can be made from a channel of the same size, the fillies to the channel must be mirror welded.
In the future, steps will be laid on the filly made earlier, which can be made of different material depending on your interior and the place of operation of the stairs.

Painting and decorating stairs

Once you have completed the construction of the stairs, you are faced with the task of ennobling the stairs according to the interior of your home.

To finish concrete stairs you can proceed without any intermediate steps. There are many variations in the design of a concrete staircase, the most common options are:

wood stair trim- it can be either laminate or solid wood. Using wood to finish a concrete staircase, you can achieve such results that upon completion of the work it will be difficult to understand that the staircase was originally concrete.

Stair painting– it will be necessary to putty the entire staircase for painting in order to achieve smooth surface, in this embodiment, it is better not to putty the steps themselves, but immediately paint, because under load when walking, the putty will fly off the steps along with the paint.

Tiled stairs- there are many options for tiles: ceramic, porcelain stoneware, clinker. The choice of tiles largely depends on the location of the stairs and on environment(should the tile be frost-resistant, anti-slip, etc.).

Home-made forged stairs and stairs, made of metal, need to be additionally treated with a primer before they can be painted, this is due to the fact that the metal is susceptible to corrosion and it is necessary to prevent the formation of rust and destruction of the metal.

Wood and log stairs are most often treated with a clear varnish to preserve the grain of the wood, but whatever you paint your wood stairs with, you must also treat it to prevent mold, mildew, or insects from forming.

A glass staircase requires minimal processing, although a lot depends on the version of such a staircase. If the staircase is made on metal frame, then it must also be processed, as described earlier.

Low-rise construction, when it comes to residential buildings, implies the construction of at least two-level buildings. Therefore, to move to the second floor, you cannot do without an internal staircase. The purchase of a ready-made kit, firstly, will be quite expensive (at least 35,000 rubles), and secondly, it must be adapted to specific premises before installation, or be reconstructed (re-planned). And this is an additional cost and time.

In most cases, it is more expedient to make a staircase to the second floor with your own hands, especially since it will turn out to be approximately the same in terms of time. The simplest and most inexpensive option is wood construction. This article will explain in detail all the nuances of choosing lumber, drawing up a staircase drawing and the features of its assembly.

In relation to a private house, two are most common - a spiral staircase and a mid-flight staircase. The first option is quite complicated, and it is unlikely that it will be possible to implement it with your own hands, without practical skills and experience in this area. You have to make specific engineering calculations, which means that without the help of a professional, at least at this stage of preparation, one cannot do. Focusing only on the schemes available on the Internet is not entirely correct. They do not take into account the specifics of a particular structure, so they will definitely have to be processed taking into account the characteristics of its dimensions, layout and a number of other factors. And the installation of a spiral staircase itself, especially a wooden one, is far from a simple process.

For DIY assembly the optimal solution is a mid-flight wooden staircase. Based on the height of the premises on the first floor, there can be one or two spans (swivel structure).

But in the details, even completely identical stairs can differ greatly. And this is easily explained by the fact that making with your own hands implies an element of creativity. Since all private houses differ in many ways (dimensions, ceiling heights, layout, internal content), then following a single standard is a hopeless business. By the way, the author has already drawn the attention of the reader to this. Therefore, further - only general recommendations, which will help to correctly draw up a drawing of a wooden staircase, taking into account all the features of the structure, and install it in place.

general information

There are several options for the execution of mid-flight stairs. Their main varieties are shown in the figures below. It is not difficult to decide which modification to choose for installation with your own hands, knowing all the features of the house and the premises of the first and second floors.

When describing any product or prefabricated structure, one cannot do without special terminology. The following drawings explain well what the main elements of the stairs are called.

Preparation of materials

When choosing a tree species, if you focus on a reasonable combination of quality / price, it is recommended to give preference to pine or larch. The latter is even better, as it is less prone to decay. In addition, when the liquid is absorbed, it only becomes stronger. Since there will definitely be evaporation in any living space, it is more than relevant, especially if there is a kitchen in the adjacent room. All other species - cedar, oak and a number of others - are unlikely to belong to budget options wooden stairs.
The durability of the structure largely depends on the degree of drying of the lumber. If the wood in this regard is not sufficiently processed, then such a ladder will “lead” quite quickly. Drying the boards with your own hands is a process that is both troublesome and complicated. You will need not only a place for their storage, but also knowledge of all the features of the methodology. You will have to ensure the constancy of temperature, high-quality ventilation, and so on. The conclusion is unequivocal - it is not advisable to save on the material for a wooden staircase. That is, if you buy boards, then only a high degree of drying, although they are more expensive.

Calculation of the main parameters of the stairs

Width

When determining this parameter, one should be guided by such moments. Firstly, whether it will be convenient to move up the stairs at the same time, towards each other. Secondly, will it be possible to transfer oversized cargo from floor to floor (furniture, household appliances etc). For a private house recommended width of the internal stairs – 130±20.

Ladder height

When calculating this parameter, inexperienced "home masters" are guided by the ceiling of the first floor room. This is not true. When drawing up a staircase drawing, not only given parameter, but also the total thickness of the ceiling and floor of the second room (together with the finish). That is, the last step should be on the same level with it.

span height

The distance between the steps and the ceiling of the second floor (ceiling) is implied. It is clear that moving up the stairs, constantly bending your head is not an option to save space. Basically, the masters are guided by 200. This is enough, since rarely anyone has growth that exceeds this value.

Steepness of a wooden staircase

A slope of 40 ± 5º is considered optimal. Exceeding this value will complicate the climb to the second floor for the elderly, young children, as well as those whose physical capabilities are limited for some reason. But even a more flat design has a number of disadvantages. The consumption of wood is increasing, and much more space will be needed for its installation. Here you need to choose the most suitable option for a particular house.

steps

Tread. You should focus on the 45th size of a person's foot, then it will be convenient for everyone to walk up the stairs. Based on this, the recommended step width is within 28 ± 2.

Riser. The optimal value, regardless of design features wooden stairs, 18±2. It will be convenient for both children and a tall person to move along it.

Number of steps. This requires a calculation. The distance between adjacent ones is simply determined - the thickness of their board + risers. When a fractional value is received, it is rounded up to an integer value. It remains only to divide the height of the stairs by it.

What to consider:

The dimensions of all steps of the flight ladder must be identical. That is, it is enough to make calculations for only one.
If there are more than 18 steps, then it is recommended to provide a platform in the design of the stairs (hence, at least 2 marches). It is called differently - viewing, turning, intermediate - but you need to mount it. Another question - where exactly should it be located - strictly in the center of the span, closer to the top of the stairs? Here it is worth thinking, in accordance with the features of the house and the convenience of moving to the second floor.

Ladder length

This is the last step in the calculations. The initial data are the parameters of the steps and their number. As practice shows, when drawing up a drawing of a staircase on its own, it often does not fit in terms of the estimated length to the premises of the first floor. How to proceed? There are several options:

Add one march. This solution is more complicated, since it will be necessary to mount an additional platform, and, therefore, to re-perform the main calculations.
Provide for several turning (winder) steps in the design of the stairs. The option is simpler and more convenient for doing it yourself. It is he who is most often implemented.

Features of mounting a wooden staircase

Regardless of its design, all basic technological operations are identical. If you understand the nuances of building a single-flight staircase, then it will not be difficult to assemble it according to any other scheme.

The specifics of the preparation of components

Steps. For them, board segments are selected that do not have any defects in the form of chips, cracks, curvature. Their recommended thickness, taking into account the expected loads, is 35 ± 5. More impractical, since both the consumption of material and the total weight of the structure increase. Less undesirable for reasons of safety when moving up stairs (taking into account the loads carried).

At the stage of preparing the steps, it is necessary to round off the sharp edges of the fragments of the boards in order to eliminate the risk of injury. In addition, their front surface and ends must be carefully sanded - no chips, burrs, and so on. Here you will be most welcome. The length of the steps is selected depending on the chosen scheme of the wooden staircase. But their protrusions beyond the stringers by more than 3 (cm) are undesirable.

Riser. They are not load-bearing elements, and often play only a decorative role. Here you can save a little on them using a board for 10 or 15. By the way, some wooden stairs are assembled without them. Such structures look even more impressive, and, in addition, the cleaning of spans is greatly simplified.

Kosoura. These are supporting elements for the entire staircase, so the lumber for them should be chosen especially carefully. Particular attention is paid to the equality of all parameters. Both stringers should be like "twin brothers", otherwise the staircase after assembly will turn out to be asymmetric, with distortions, curvature, and so on. The figures show some variants of stringers.

The feasibility of making do-it-yourself fencing elements is in question. Well, if it is possible to process balusters, handrails on machine tools. Otherwise, it is better to purchase ready-made samples. Given the fact that it is they (especially with a side view) that are the first to catch the eye, such costs are fully justified.

The nuances of installing a wooden staircase

Kosour fastening. Fixing the extreme on the wall is possible only if the base is strong enough (a house made of bricks, timber, and so on). In other cases, the entire staircase structure is mounted on racks.

To prevent movement of the lower part, a support bar is installed on the floor of the first floor. The top of the span is attached to the ceiling itself (you will need to make a cutout in the beam along its width) or “fastened” to it with anchor bolts. The stringers themselves must also be fastened together so that they are not “led” during the drying process of the wood. For example, yes.

Riser. If it is decided to use them in the staircase scheme, then they are mounted on stringers.

Steps. In order not to be mistaken, their installation begins from the bottom of the structure. Side mounts - on the support beams, if there are risers, then at least at one point (in the center) on them.

Balusters. First, only two are mounted - the upper and lower. A cord is stretched between them. Focusing on it, it is easy to install stairs along the flights and align all the others.

Handrail attachment. When it comes to a wooden staircase, this does not a priori mean that these elements must also be made of wood. It is quite difficult to make them from it with your own hands. Here you will need not only experience, but also the appropriate tool. Options for handrails - plastic or metal.

Final stage

After checking the symmetry of the structure, the reliability of all connections, a number of measures are taken:

Grinding of all structural parts.
Impregnation with special / compositions (from fire, rot, wood-boring insects).
Surface finish. The painting option is not for a private house. It is advisable to treat the stairs with a tinting compound, and on top or with a wax-containing solution. But this is at the discretion of the owner, depending on general style room finishing.

wooden stairs made by hand is quite simple. However, there are a number of nuances on which the convenience and even safety of movement depends. I will tell you about all the intricacies of building a wooden structure so that you do not make mistakes in the process.

All work on the manufacture of stairs can be divided into two main stages:

Design;
Construction assembly.

Design

Staircase is enough complex structure, therefore it is simply impossible to make it qualitatively without a detailed project, especially for a beginner. The design process can be broken down into three main steps:

Step 1: Determining the type of structure

All existing species stairs can be divided into two types:

Screw. The peculiarity of such structures is that they contain only winders located around the central pillar. It is advisable to use them if there is a minimum of space in the room.
Keep in mind that such stairs are inconvenient to use, and also quite difficult to manufacture. Therefore, I would not recommend beginners to take on the construction of a spiral staircase;

Marching. These stairs have smooth marches (flights of stairs). They are more comfortable and safer to use. However, keep in mind that mid-flight stairs take up more space in the room.

Marching stairs, in turn, are divided into several subspecies:

Single-march. Consist of one straight flight of stairs;
Rotary with winder steps. They can have several flights of stairs, between which there are turning (winder steps);

Rotary with landings. Flat platforms are installed between the flights of these stairs. Such stairs are more convenient to use, but take up more space in the room;

"Duck step". The peculiarity of these stairs is the paddle-shaped steps, which are installed in pairs in the opposite direction. As a result, only one foot can stand on a step, hence their name.

Such stairs are less convenient, but they can be very steep, i.e. the angle of inclination can exceed 40-45 degrees.

The type of construction should be chosen depending on the conditions in the room and your requirements. If there is not enough space, you can make a "duck step" staircase, which requires a minimum of floor space on the ground floor. If pensioners or small children live in the house, it is better to sacrifice space, but make a turning staircase with marching platforms.

Stage 2: calculate the stairs

At this stage, you need to decide on such important parameters of the stairs as:

Number of treads;
riser height;
The angle of the stairs;
March length;
The area that the stairs will occupy on the first floor.

Any staircase should be comfortable and safe. To do this, when performing calculations, the following rules must be observed:

Step sizes. The height cannot be made more than 190 mm and less than 160 mm. The width of the tread should not be less than 220 mm and more than 330 mm.
Keep in mind that all steps must be the same height and width, otherwise the stairs will turn out to be traumatic;
The number of steps in a flight of stairs. The most comfortable value is 11-15 steps. If there are more of them, it is advisable to divide the flight of stairs with a platform.
In addition, it is desirable that the march has an odd number of steps, so that a person ends the descent or ascent with the same foot with which he began to move up the stairs;
March width. Must be at least 90-100 mm;
Railing height. At least 90 cm.

Calculation of the number of steps. Before proceeding with the calculation of the stairs, you need to measure the height between floors, as well as the area allocated for the stairs. For example, the height between floors, i.e. the height of the stairs in our case is 3 m.

Now you can start calculating the number of steps and the height of the risers. These two parameters are interrelated.

To calculate the number of steps, you need to divide the distance between the floor of the first floor and the floor of the second floor by the height of the steps. The latter can be any within 160-190 mm. For example, let's take a height of 180 mm, in which case we will have the number of steps 300/18 = 16.6 pieces.

Since we need an even amount, we will correct the height by dividing the total height by the number of steps - 300/17 = 17.6 cm. In fact, the staircase will have 16 steps, since the last step is the floor of the second floor.

Tread width calculation. There is a formula for calculating a comfortable ladder - a + b = 470 mm, where:

a - riser height;
b - tread width.

From this formula we get the width of the tread 47-17.6 = 29.4. This size is well within the acceptable range.

March length calculation. Now it remains to calculate only the length of the march, i.e. the length of its projection on the floor. To do this, you need to multiply the width of the tread by the number of steps - 29.4x17 \u003d 499.8 ~ 5 m.

Since the stairs will turn out to be quite long, it is advisable to make it rotary, consisting of two marches. In this case, the first flight will have eight steps, including the platform, and the second flight will have nine steps, taking into account the floor of the first floor.

The width of the platform should be equal to the width of the march, i.e. at least 90-100 cm.

If necessary, you can adjust the parameters of the stairs to the conditions in the room - change the height of the risers and the width of the tread. The main thing is that these parameters remain within the acceptable range.

Calculation of the length of the kosour or bowstring. The calculation of the kosour is carried out according to the Pythagorean theorem - the length of the stairs in the square + the height of the stairs in the square = the length of the kosour in the square.

Stage 3: draw up a drawing

Now you need to prepare a drawing according to which you will make the details of the stairs. To do this, first consider the details that the design of a wooden staircase includes:

Kosour. Bearing beam on which the steps are laid. As a result, the kosour takes on the entire load when moving up the stairs;

Bowstring. It is also a carrier beam. It differs from the kosour by the absence of cutouts for the steps, as a result of which the treads are connected to the beam by the butt.
To attach the treads to the bowstring, recesses are milled in it or bars are attached on which the tread is placed;

Steps. They consist of two elements - tread (horizontal board), riser (vertical board, which is located under the step). I must say that the design of a wooden staircase may not have risers, especially if it is based on bowstrings.

What is the best way to make a ladder - on stringers or bowstrings? The design on bowstrings is faster and easier, since there is no need to make cutouts for the steps, however, the ladder on the stringers is able to withstand a large load.

Making stairs

Consider how a ladder is made of wood with your own hands. This process can be conditionally divided into several stages:

Stage 1: preparation of stringers

The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage, prepare boards with a section of 40 x 300 mm.
	Beam preparation. Cut boards 40x300 mm along the length of the stringer according to the design calculations.
	Kosour markup. For marking, use a construction square. Use it to mark the location of the steps and risers, as shown in the photo. Keep in mind that the angle of the tread and stringer must match the angle of inclination. In order not to make mistakes in the calculations, you can perform the following steps: Lock the kosour in working position; Mark a cutting line for the bottom of the board that will rest on the floor; Mark the first tread and riser with a square. In the process of marking, use the level so that the step is parallel. The distance from the cut line to the first tread should be equal to the height of the step; Mark the remaining treads and risers, focusing on the markings of the first step.
	Cutting out the kosour. Carefully cut out the cuts with a hacksaw, jigsaw or other tool. In the same way, make all the other stringers.

To make paired kosours exactly the same, use the first kosour as a template - attach it to the board and circle it with a pencil.

Stage 2: frame assembly

Now we need to make the remaining elements of the ladder frame, and install them. The work is done like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. In addition to the kosour for assembly, you will need: Beam 70x70 mm or 100x100 mm; Boards 40x300 mm; Glass for timber (fastener); Joiner's glue.
	Mounting the kosour to the wall: Fix the kosour on the wall in working position; Make sure the stringer is installed correctly. To do this, attach the level to the cutouts under the steps - they must be located strictly horizontally; Fix the beam with anchors or self-tapping screws (if the wall is wooden); In the same way, attach the stringer of the second span to the wall. In order for the beams to be positioned correctly, it is advisable to mark the walls before installing them.
	Support post installation: Designate the location of the support column for the landing; Fix the post to the floor with a special glass and dowel-nails. Step back from the installed pole 10 cm (span spacing), and install a second pole on which the beam of the upper span will rest.
	Column marking. Mark on the pole the junction of the second stringer. To do this, you can use a laser or water level.
	Installation of the second stringer: Treat the junction of the stringer with the pole with carpentry glue. It is advisable to pre-mill the junction. Connect the stringer to the post; With reverse side screw a few self-tapping screws on the column, having previously drilled holes for them.
	Installation of the stringer of the second span. The beam is attached to the post according to the same principle as the stringer of the first span.
	Site frame assembly: If the site is adjacent to the walls, fix 40x300 mm boards on the walls at the level of the site; If the site does not adjoin the walls, install additional supports and pull them together with rails, as shown in the photo example.

This completes the installation of the frame. If your stairs are straight and without a platform, then all the work on assembling the frame comes down to installing two stringers.

Stage 3: cladding stairs

Sheathing stairs is carried out as follows:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. At this stage we will need: Wooden boards 30x300 mm; Joiner's glue; Clapboard.
	Marking steps and treads: Mark the boards according to the dimensions of the treads and risers; If the treads are rounded, mark with a template.
	Cutting details. Use a jigsaw or other tool for this purpose. In addition to treads and risers, you will also need boards for sheathing the landing. Keep in mind that the tread should hang over the riser by a centimeter or two.
	Hole drilling: Mark the location of the screws on the parts; Drill holes.
	Processing the joints of parts with glue. Use wood glue for this.
	Installation of steps and risers. Fasten the parts with self-tapping screws.
	Sheathing the space under the stairs: Fasten the rail on the floor under the outer stringer, as shown in the photo; Sheathe the space between the floor and the stairs with clapboard. The boards are attached to the lower rail and stringer, and are also connected to each other into a lock.
	Upper flight lining: Fasten the slats between the stringers; Attach the lining with self-tapping screws to the stringers and cross rails.

Stage 4. railing installation

Now you can start installing the railing. It is more expedient to buy ready-made balusters and handrails, since it is difficult to make them beautiful without the appropriate equipment. At the same time, their price is small - the cost of figured pine balusters starts at an average of 100 rubles apiece.

The installation process of balusters and railings looks like this:

Illustrations	Description of actions
	Materials. To equip the railing you will need: A set of balusters; handrails; dowels; Paint glue.
	Installation of dowels for balusters: Mark the treads so that all the dowels are on the same line; Drill holes according to the diameter of the dowels; Coat the holes with wood glue; Drive dowels into the holes.
	Installation of balusters. The instruction looks like this: Drill a dowel hole in the bottom end of the baluster; Lubricate the hole with glue; Put the baluster on the dowel; If the baluster is located close to the tread, it can be additionally “grabbed” with self-tapping screws.
	Preparing balusters for handrail installation. Cut the top of the posts at an angle equal to the angle of the flight of stairs.
	Fastening handrails to the outer posts: Treat the junction of the handrail to the posts with glue; Screw the screws from the bottom into the handrail obliquely so that they enter the column, as shown in the photo.
	Fastening handrails to intermediate balusters. Treat the junction of the balusters to the handrail with wood glue. Screw the self-tapping screws obliquely into the balusters so that they fit into the handrail.

The process of manufacturing a wooden staircase is almost complete. Now all that's left is to do the finishing touches.

Stage 5: finishing

Usually in the process finishing do-it-yourself wooden stairs are varnished, stained or impregnated. This operation is carried out in the following sequence:

Illustrations	Description of works
	Materials. For finishing you will need: Putty on wood (selected to match the color of the tree); Paintwork.
	Puttying: Remove any dust and dirt from the surfaces you will putty; Fill with putty the recesses of the self-tapping screws, as well as small cracks and other flaws in the wood, if any; Level the surface immediately with a narrow spatula; After the putty has hardened, it is necessary to clean its surface with sandpaper.
	Sanding: Sand all flat surfaces with a grinder; Treat areas of complex shape with sandpaper manually.
	Dust removal. Vacuum the surface of the stairs or wipe with a damp cloth.
	Varnishing: Apply the varnish in a thin, even layer with a brush; After the surface has dried, apply the varnish again; Upon completion of varnishing, the surface should be polished. It is desirable to cover a wooden staircase with a matte varnish or impregnation. Covered with a glossy varnish can be slippery and unsafe to move around.

As you can see, stairs to the second floor are made quite simply, so for their manufacture it is enough to have basic woodworking skills.

Conclusion

We examined the process of making stairs with all its main nuances and subtleties, and now you can take on the job yourself. I recommend watching the video in this article. If you encounter any difficulties in the process of work - write comments, and I will be happy to help you.

Modern cottages and private houses suggest the presence of 2 or more floors, and the topmost of them can be both residential and non-residential. Either way, you need a ladder.

Independently make a reliable interfloor or attic stairs from concrete or metal structures is quite difficult, which cannot be said about wood.

Even a novice master can assemble it.

From this article you will learn what types of wooden stairs are, what are their differences, what material is used to make spans. In addition, each of you will be able to make a wooden staircase to the second floor yourself - in the article we will give approximate calculations and photos.

Types and types of structures

There are several species wooden staircase designs

Marching stairs. Easy to manufacture and convenient to use, but require a large area of the room. The staircase of the march structure can be placed along the wall or mounted in the middle of the room;
. Usually located in limited space. Since the capacity of the structure is very small, it is better to move through it one at a time. A spiral staircase (if you build it yourself) will cost much less than other structures, and will last about the same;
Combined stairs. Can be used in the construction of a private house, if the layout allows. Most often, mid-flight stairs with a screw element are made.

Construction types wooden stairs distinguish the following:

stairs on the bolts- steps are attached to huge hinged bolts (balusters);
stairs on bowstrings– a flight of stairs is mounted to a beam with special cutouts on inside butt;
stairs on kosoura. Kosour - an inclined beam, on top of which steps are attached.

What kind of wood can be used to make stairs

Material selection for depends on the preferences of the owner of the house or apartment, the characteristics of the tree and the cost of it. Various breeds have their advantages and disadvantages:

Maple. The ladder from this breed will turn out to be the strongest and most durable. Color - light brown. The disadvantage of maple stairs is the high price.
Larch. The color of the structure is golden yellow or dark yellow with brown streaks. Fine tolerates external influences. The larch staircase will turn out to be strong and solid.
Oak. The peculiarity of oak stairs is that the older they are, the darker the shade.
Spruce. The most popular material due to its low cost. Spruce wood has a uniform structure and a light shade.
Pine. Due to the low density of the wood, it is very easy to process. An additional advantage of pine is low cost material. The disadvantage of a pine staircase is a short service life. A pine ladder is best installed in the country house where it will be used. seasonally.

Pros and cons of wooden stairs

Wooden stairs have their advantages and disadvantages. Let's get acquainted with them in more detail.

Positive sides:

Low cost of building materials;
environmental friendliness of wood;
ease of processing;
the possibility of mounting with your own hands;
light weight;
aesthetic appearance.

Negative sides of wood:

Low strength compared to concrete or metal stairs;
wood is a natural material and it tends to deteriorate and change. Therefore, after some time, preventive work may be needed;
fire hazard of the material.

Materials for the manufacture of stairs

For stairs to the second floor You will need:

Bars for steps;
beams for risers (foot supports);
boards;
beams wide 30 - 40 mm;
beam for kosour - 50*240mm;
screws, self-tapping screws;
wood glue;
building level, square, tape measure;
handrails and, but they are best purchased at a hardware store.

Ladder design calculations

If you decide to make a wooden staircase do it yourself, think over the nuances of the design: determine its dimensions, calculate the number of steps and supports. It is important to first imagine what function the staircase will perform: connect the floors or lead up to the attic. (Information about self-insulation attic can be read).

Draw scheme it's easy too. Most often, a straight marching staircase is made. It connects the first floor with the second, and reaches a height of several meters. For convenience, the angle of inclination of the structure should be equal to the value in 30-40 degrees.

Note! Wooden houses shrink significantly in the first two years after construction, so the angle of inclination may change.

So, for your convenience, we will provide basic calculations staircase elements (for example, a wooden one) standard designs:

Base length - 3.5-4 m;
flight of stairs - 2.5 m;
step width - 30 cm;
step height - 15-20 cm.

Necessary calculations

1. We define ladder height. Average value from ceiling to floor - 250 cm. To this value, you need to add the thickness of the interfloor overlap. Its mean value 35 cm. We get:
  250+35=285 cm

1. calculate number of steps: Divide the height of the stairs by the height of the step. The last value (i.e. the height of the steps) is better to take the average - 17 cm. We get:
  285cm/17cm=16.76

The value is rounded up. Total we get 17 steps.

1. define step width. It is believed that the allowable width of the tread (flat facing part of the step) can be in the range from 22-40 cm. In Russian practice, to calculate the width of the step and rise (risers), the formula is used: a + b = 47 cm, where a- riser height b- step width. We get:
  47-16.67=30.3cm

The value is rounded up to 30 cm. - this is the width of the step.

1. the width of the flight of stairs must be a multiple of the width of the step. In our case, this value can be equal to 60 cm, 90 cm, 120 cm. etc.
2. calculate ladder length. The length of the stairs is equal to the product of the number of steps and their width. We get:
  17*30= 480cm

calculate stringer length. We make calculations according to the Pythagorean theorem: the sum of the squares of the legs is equal to the square of the hypotenuse. I.e A²+B²=C². In this formula:
BUT- kosour height,
AT- the length of the flight of stairs,
With- the length of the kosour. We get:

230400 + 81225 = 311625
The root of this number is 558.23 cm. can be rounded up to 560 cm.

Advice! If it is difficult to make geometric calculations, then you can draw a staircase on paper in an appropriate scale and measure the angle and length of the base.

Ladder assembly

Before proceeding with the assembly of the stairs to the second floor, you need to decide on place of installation of stringers(bearing structure of the flight of stairs). Mounting stairs (in our case, a marching structure) includes several stages:

1. Installation of stringers. We fix the lower part of the kosour with a support beam. From above we cut the kosour into the beam of the ceiling.

grinding stairs, protective coating.
varnishing and painting. To do this, use a roller or brush. paint over ladder needed in 2-3 layers, each subsequent layer must be applied after some time, so that the previous layer has time to dry.

The cost of the finished staircase

Those who decide to buy ready a wooden ladder or make it order, should be aware that the cost will depend on the complexity of the design and the type of wood.

For example, the most common design of a mid-flight staircase with a turn to 90 degrees from pine will cost 60-80000 rub., from birch - 100,000 rubles.,from oak - 150,000 rubles.

You can order a wooden staircase in a specialized store or on company websites. Manufacturing stairs on average 5-10 working days.

To make a wooden staircase yourself or order from specialists - it's up to you. Self-assembly not a quick process, but it has its advantages. First of all, this saving cash and visual Quality control building materials.

How to make a wooden staircase with your own hands tells this video.

You can turn to professionals for help, but keep in mind that they may not pay attention to minor defects during construction, which can later lead to serious damage and subsequent repairs. Stairs to the second floor, made by yourself, will give you several advantages:

the result will meet expectations;
help save money and nerves;
a staircase made by yourself will become your pride.

If you are limited in funds for the purchase of materials, you can buy cheaper analogues: instead of wood, use chipboard, which can be varnished or painted.

In the pursuit of economy, quality can be overlooked. Although a cheap wooden staircase can also last quite a long time, it will start to creak very soon. In order not to encounter this trouble, the stairs must be assembled using silicone sealant, which cannot be done without first painting the parts.

In this article, we will talk about how to make a staircase to the second floor with our own hands from wood and metal, and also show photo and video instructions.

For the manufacture of an interfloor staircase, concrete with a tile or marble lining, metal (a welding machine is required), as well as wood can be used. Last option the most practical and convenient. The wooden structure is lightweight, easy to install and beautiful in appearance.

In the presence of a room with a ceiling height of 2.8 m, preference should be given to direct structures, or with a 25% turn of the stairs. The flight of stairs is made with a length of 80 cm. This option allows you to use the space under the stairs for storage. It is impossible not to note the minus: on the upper and lower floors, the free space will be significantly reduced.

To save precious square meters a spiral version of the staircase is ideal, but it is also not without drawbacks:

too steep climb;
small width stairs.

To install a spiral staircase, you will need 3 m² of free space and a lot of work.

Another variant of the ladder device is possible, in which it is located along the wall surface. In this case, it is worth considering two marches and a turn. Thus, you will make it as compact and comfortable as possible for movement.

Calculation of the dimensions of the stairs. Measure the distance between the floors of the first and second floors together with the ceiling. Thus, you determine the height of the structure. The step should have a height of 18-20 cm. Further dividing the height of the stairs by the height of the steps, you will get the total number of steps.
Projection of dimensions on the floor surface. To design a structure, it is necessary to determine the width of the steps (about 30 cm), after which their number must be multiplied by their width. As a result, you will get the projection size.
Production of staircase elements. To make a kosour, you will need a 14 × 16 beam, steps - 4 cm boards, risers - 2.5 cm boards. You will determine the length of the steps yourself, remember that the larger it is, the better.
Pre-sampling. If during the preliminary fitting of the parts everything came up, process each element with a grinder and assemble the structure. To fix the parts of the stairs to each other, coat all the places where they come into contact with each other with glue (PVA or carpentry) and additionally fix it with screws.
Stain and lacquer finish. First, apply a stain on the surface, and after waiting for it to dry, cover with several layers of varnish.

As design solution you can consider the mortise steps that are inserted into the grooves cut in the stringer:

Make markings on the stringer at the places where the steps are installed. Using a hacksaw and a chisel, cut out the grooves.
In the center of the groove, make several holes with a size of 9 mm.
Screw the turbo coupling into the holes made.
Install the step into the groove and tighten the bolts.

When buying planed wood, the following requirements must be considered:

there should be no dark spots on the surface;
the presence of cracks, chips, roughness and other defects is unacceptable.

Knots (diameter up to 1 cm) can only be present if steps or risers are made from the material. Also pay attention to humidity, the large mass of the board suggests that you should refuse to purchase.

When making a structure without experience, you may encounter certain difficulties, but your desire and desire will help you achieve the desired result.

Now we invite you to familiarize yourself with the technology of manufacturing stairs made of wood. First of all, it is necessary to make drawings with individual structural details. To do this, take a well-dried wood and transfer the appropriate dimensions to it. In doing so, several factors should be taken into account:

The strength and reliability of the stairs will depend entirely on the correct cutting of the stringers. Therefore, their production must be approached responsibly. Moreover, for the kosour, it is necessary to choose a solid board that does not have large knots in large quantities. The thickness of the board can be 45–50 mm.
The board for risers can have a thickness of 15-20 mm more than allotted for them on the stringer, and the thickness of the riser is also taken into account. The treads themselves must have perfect flat surface with neatly rounded edges. The thickness of the board can be in the range of 30–35 mm.
If you want to make a closed staircase with risers, then their manufacture must also be extremely accurate. Its thickness should not be large, 15-20 mm is enough. In this case, the main load will go to the stringers. The risers themselves play the role of support.
As for balusters and handrails, it is recommended that they be purchased ready-made with stationary mounts.

If you have small children at home, then for safety reasons, install 2 balusters on each step. In all other cases, you can install one at a time.

When all the blanks of the structure are ready, you can proceed to the most important stage of work - the installation of the stairs. All subsequent work looks like this:

Stringers are mounted at the selected location. To do this, fix the support beam on the floor, it is on it that the kosour will be attached. At the top, the fastening is carried out in a cut groove in the beam. In some cases, a metal support is used for fastening. In this case, an anchor bolt is used for fastening. During the installation of the kosour, be sure to check everything by level or plumb.
Before laying the tread sheet, the risers must be screwed on.

After that, treads are fixed on the stringers and on top of the risers with self-tapping screws in the direction from bottom to top.
After that, the installation of balusters is carried out.

So, on top of the stairs and below you mount support drains. They will serve as the border of the handrails and also support the railing.

In addition, the support posts serve as a decoration. Therefore, they are often made using wood cutting.

Balusters, in turn, may have different shape, dimensions and methods of fastening. Some, for example, are simply screwed on with self-tapping screws, others are mounted in pre-drilled holes. But in any case, the attachment point must be closed with a decorative plug. Further work as follows:

On top of the installed balusters, fasten the railing to the extreme support posts. Additionally, 1 or 2 additional support posts can be installed in the middle.
When using two, three or more support posts, instead of balusters between the posts, you can install several boards parallel to the slope of the stairs.
At the next stage, you can start grinding with an emery or grinder. After that, a paint coating is applied.

The first layer acts as an antiseptic against rotting and the appearance of mold / fungus. The design should dry out, after which you can proceed to the main painting.

The stairs are covered with water-based varnish, hot wax or paint. You can also cover the wood with stain, which will slightly darken the structure. Everything depends on your desire.

Thus, the wooden staircase is ready for operation.

Ladder made of metal requires a lot of labor, plus not everyone has the skills to work with a welding machine. And yet, if you are ready to complete the work of such a plan, then you need to prepare such a set of tools:

Welding machine and electrodes for DC Ø3.2 and 1.6 mm.
Protective mask of the welder.
Mittens.
Bulgarian and cutting discs 125 × 1.6 mm.
Grinding disc 125 mm.
Drill and a set of drill bits for metal.
Metal table.
Clamp that can be adjusted in height from 0 to 800 mm.
Vice.
Pencil.
Square.
Roulette.
Metal paint.
White Spirit.
Primer.

With all of this, plus suitable material you can start installation work. As for the selection of material, this can be done according to the completed drawing. We invite you to familiarize yourself with the principle of manufacturing a metal staircase on two stringers.

It is worth noting right away that the whole process consists of the following phased actions:

Production of blanks.
Filly making, i.e. step attachment points.
Corner welding.
Kosour installation.
Welding steps and railings.
Sanding and priming/painting.

All work should be done slowly, strictly adhering to all dimensions of the drawing. Otherwise, any small distortion will be problematic to fix, moreover, it will spoil the appearance of the finished structure. So, the work is carried out as follows:

From the corners it is necessary to make fasteners for the steps (filly). In relation to each other, they should be mirrored.
You can make fillies from a corner. To do this, cut out the samples and dock the corners together. The result should be L-shaped blanks with shelves down and inward. Depending on the number of steps, you make a pair of fillies. One of them will be on the left, the other on the right.
Between each pair of corners, weld brackets for fastening the steps and crossbars. The crossbar is similarly made from a corner.
To increase the strength, you can install small scarves from the bottom of the step towards the stringer.
Now take a square profile pipe and make markings on it, or rather, on its edge. On it you can weld fillies to the kosour. Transfer exactly the same markup to another kosour. As a result, it will be possible to achieve the geometry of the entire structure.

If the metal staircase has a width of more than 1.2 m, then you will need to install an additional stringer.

Next, you need to mount the kosour. At the bottom, it is welded to the support platform, and at the top it is fixed to the floor slab or to the wall with anchors. In each case, the method of fastening may differ. Therefore, be guided by the features of your opening. During this process, it is important to stick to the level. Moreover, two stringers must be strictly on the same level. In conclusion, it remains to weld the steps to the fillies. As an option, you can install wooden steps on the filly. But for this you need to use mounting bolts.

The uppermost step should be installed as close as possible to the wall (if the stringers are anchored to the wall). Next, weld the fence. At the same time, install it on the side so as not to reduce the width of the steps.

When arranging the railing, you can use forging or purchase prepared elements. Here again, it all depends on your personal taste and vision of the final result.

When all welding work completed, it's time to grind all the welding joints. It is also necessary to eliminate all burrs and notches. Using a wire brush, sweep away all particles. After that, the surface of the stairs is primed and painted in the desired color.

If the steps are wooden, then their installation is carried out after the paint has dried.

Finally, you can decorate the stairs. For example, trim the steps from the bottom side with wood. Stainless steel railings are also available. Lay out steps ceramic tiles. Due to this, a seemingly careless and bulky design will acquire beautiful outlines and will be an excellent addition to the interior of the house.

Although this whole process may seem easy, working with metal is very tedious. Unlike working with wood, when it is easy to fix defects in case of shortcomings, it is much more problematic with metal. However, the life of the entire structure significantly exceeds its analogue from wood.

If we talk about attractiveness and a bright element of the interior, then competitors to the spiral staircase can hardly be found. With the right construction, it will last for many years. It can be made both from wood and from metal with forging elements. There are 4 main types of spiral staircases:

Design with wedge-shaped steps, which with a narrow side rest on a supporting central column, and with a wide side on a wall or a fabricated frame. In this case, spiral bowstrings are constructed on stringers.
A free-standing structure, remote from the walls with cantilevered steps on a monolithic pillar placed in the center.
Design without a central support column. The steps are supported by curved bowstrings or stringers, which smoothly pass into the railing. This option is very beautiful and sophisticated. However, it is very difficult to manufacture.
Design with a central support rod (asbestos-cement or steel pipeØ50 mm). This type of ladder is the most common.

As practice shows, the most convenient spiral staircases with a span of 0.8–0.9 m wide. As a result, the diameter of the entire staircase structure will reach up to 2 m, this is taking into account the central support post and railings. If we talk about the shape of the stairs, then it can be round, square, rectangular or oval.

If the traffic intensity in your house is small, then the total diameter of the stairs is enough to make up to 1.5 m. In this case, the treads will have a width of up to 0.6 m.

It is also necessary to consider the ergonomics of the spiral staircase. The principle of the size and height of the steps is the same as on ordinary straight stairs, we have already talked about such measurements above. But there are some features, namely a comfortable lifting height for a person. For example, we suggest you consider the option of a spiral staircase, 3 m high and 0.8 m march wide.

The calculations are presented below:

The total diameter of the stairs with such dimensions is equal to the double width of the march, and the thickness of the support post is 20 cm. As a result, we get the following - D = 0.8 × 2 + 0.20 = 1.8 m.
The lifting radius is equal to half the width of the flight of stairs and support: Rn \u003d 0.4 + 0.1 \u003d 0.5 cm.
Now, dividing the length of the trajectory of movement by the depth of the tread, we can determine the number of steps in one turn: L \u003d 2 π: 200 \u003d 2 × 3.14 × 500: 200 \u003d 17.2. As a result, there can be 17 steps in one turn of the flight of stairs.
It is also necessary to calculate the ergonomic step height. This must be done from the point of view that a person in full growth can move freely. Take for example a height of 1.8 m, add operational 20 to this value and divide by the number of steps in one turn. As a result, it turns out like this: h \u003d 2000: 17 \u003d 120 mm.

If the spiral staircase has a height of 3 m, then to determine the number of steps, perform the following steps n = 3000: 120 = 25. The result is 25 steps, 12 cm high.

In order for the spiral staircase to be durable and easy to use, it is important to observe the following rules:

On a spiral staircase, it is better not to install risers. This will increase the safety of the structure, and the foot will rest well on the step and not slip off the step in a narrow place.
If the height of the passage is 2 m, then even A tall man can move comfortably up the stairs.
To install the support stand, choose a place that will support the weight of the entire structure and 2-3 people.

For steps, it is best to choose a durable wood, such as oak or beech. Although it is much easier to buy ready-made steps. For example, you buy a step rectangular shape, and cut out the necessary configuration from it. The thickness of the product can be 40mm or 30mm. If one step is divided diagonally, then the result will be two steps at once. The edges of the workpiece must be rounded and sanded with a grinder. Then you can cover them with varnish or paint. A special sleeve should be fixed on the step, which will hold it on the support post.