At the very beginning of the samovar movement, they were created from copper, tombac, brass using hand forging. To add sophistication, they were silvered and gilded. Handles and taps were made in the form of curlicues, animals, and fish. A wide variety of forms of samovars existed in Russia. Sketches were brought to life by great sculptors and artists. Therefore, each samovar was a masterpiece. No wonder this follower of the sbitennik (sbiten was prepared in it) became a symbol of Russia. Despite the variety of options, the basic elements are the same.

Now only true connoisseurs in Everyday life use a hot samovar.

There are two types of samovar restoration:

• museum,
• repair.

In the first case, it is restored to its original form. This model can no longer be used for its intended purpose.

A simple repair involves further joint tea drinking. Not always such a samovar remains in its original form after restoration. Some elements are being replaced with suitable modern counterparts.

If the samovar is worn out, you will quickly notice it. A puddle will definitely begin to appear during the heating process. And this can happen with an electric samovar. The metal from which the samovar is made is very thin. Boiling water daily can lead to such a breakdown.

Where and how to solder a samovar at present?

If you notice that the water is leaking, you need to determine the place where your "tea maker" leaked. You can turn to specialists. They will find a crack in a few days, tin it, polish it. The samovar will return to the house ready for new exploits.

The price of such repairs depends on the type of damage, as well as on the master.

If you have firmly decided that you will not entrust your samovar to anyone, then everything is in your hands. It is better not to undertake museum restoration. Yes, and there’s nothing to it if you have a working samovar. Regular repairs will save the day.

Of course, ordinary lead solder will not work. You then drink this tea. Therefore, samovars are soldered with pure tin (if you find it) or silver. The second option is better.

You will need a blowtorch or a propane-oxygen torch. You could say it's a piece of jewelry.

Just soldering a crack without spoiling the appearance is unlikely to succeed. In addition, there is a possibility that it will leak again. It is more effective to first desolder the body, descale it with any of the means at hand (vinegar, citric acid, Antinakipin), and tin it. And then solder everything.

Those who have already experimented with their samovar know that sealing a crack in the fastening of a jug of a "pot-bellied" miracle teapot to the body by simply sealing a crack is a "Sisyphean" work. Most likely, soon after such work, another leak will appear in a completely different place. Therefore, it is better to resolder the connection completely with such a crack. For this you need:

1. Unsolder the body from the very jug of your "thin" samovar.
2. Clean the jug and the body from the accumulated scale (with a suitable tool).
3. Tin the body and jug separately again.
4. Solder all elements again.

But if the scale is not removed, then high-quality sealing will not work. There are times when you buy an old samovar without leaks. But after removing the ancient scale, it begins to flow. There is a need for soldering. By the way, before you clean the old samovar, familiar to your ancestors, to a shine, think about whether it is worth doing. Maybe a touch of time will give your find a special charm. Such a samovar will become the property of your family. And for brewing tea, you can buy a brand new copy, without history.

Gramopfone 21-05-2009 16:35

Maybe someone will tell?
There is a copper samovar, everything is fine, we use it sometimes, but one problem is a small leak at the soldered seam in the bottom, where the firebox is soldered. No obvious cracks are visible, the scale is overgrown, and sometimes it starts to flow, especially after use. The hand does not pass and it is a little deep, otherwise I would have found a way to eliminate the leak - the samovar is small 3 liters. Can someone tell me what can be done if you have experience. Maybe something can be poured so that this crack is overgrown.

laugh 21-05-2009 18:52

IMHO, it is better to entrust professionals.
Denyuh, of course, it will cost, but if the thing is expensive ......

Micro 21-05-2009 20:27

Need to solder. The downside is that the place is hard to reach...
Either put up with the leak, or look for the uncle "puddle-soldering-pots fixing"

Escarabajo 21-05-2009 21:22

And solder with food solder

laugh 21-05-2009 21:56

The problem may arise in the following way:
Samovars are usually nickel-plated. White shiny finish over brass samovar. If you solder, the nickel plating will be damaged in places of strong metal heating. Therefore, usually restored samovars have a brass sheen. Nickel plating is removed from them, then tinned, then polished.
This naturally comes out not cheap because the pros do it in factory conditions.
Finding an uncle, IMHO, is also expensive, but there are fewer or no guarantees at all, it's as lucky. Although the uncles are really "golden hands" for sure, it will be more difficult to find a handicraftsman than, for example, to order restoration at a factory in Tula. The financial question, unfortunately, has not been canceled.
... I myself am looking for "uncle" and digging information on my samovar

zavarow 21-05-2009 21:57

I believe that self-repair should be carried out in two stages:
1. Remove scale
2. Soldering
The first stage - you can use a solution of citric acid (boil in a samovar or pour boiling water and let stand a little). Topikstarter fears for the safety of tin on the walls (when removing scale, for example, with "anti-scale"), I believe that citric acid will not do anything bad to the walls. Personally, I clean the kettle by boiling a solution of vinegar - it removes scale well, but I don’t know whether there will be tinning on the walls, so I don’t discuss vinegar.
As for the second stage - soldering - not strong, unfortunately. In my mind, probably, you should heat the ENTIRE samovar (with pieces of tin in the right place), the tin will disperse there. Perhaps it is permissible to heat locally (for example, blowtorch), but there is no experience ... Solder is not needed here, it seems - it flows at the old solder joint, maybe just warm up this place, it will be soldered
This is IMHO, I will be glad to criticism, because you also need to learn, maybe it will come in handy.

panhorunji 07-06-2009 19:15

The photo was posted ba, maybe then they would have heard more practical advice.

fabocon 19-06-2009 12:26

Troubled childhood memories. Samovar Tula, with a bunch of medals. The leak appeared to be in the same place as yours. One of the handy relatives literally melted a tin block in a crucible and carefully poured the entire seam through the upper neck. Subsequent long-term operation showed that the option was the only correct one, nothing leaked.

The samovar is a symbol home comfort, warmth and prosperity, known since the time of Peter the Great. Modern products powered by electricity are of little value. Much more interesting are the flame devices (coal and kerosene). The restoration of samovars will help you to feel the life and mood of your ancestors, which will breathe a second life into your grandmother's dishes. However, the prices for this service are not always affordable, as the craftsmen consider such items to be antiques. Armed with tools and patience, you can repair a family heirloom yourself.

The main problems that may require restoration are: the appearance of dents, distortions, scale, loss of gloss, the need for tinning or replacement of parts. If the tea maker is purchased by hand, you should carefully examine its internal condition. Even with no external defects, the samovar can leak. The reason is barely noticeable microcracks. In this case, the restoration work of the metal product should be carried out immediately.

Brass alloy emits oxides harmful to the body. To prevent them from entering the water, the internal cavity of the device must be covered with a special food-grade tin (purified from lead and other metal impurities).

In addition, a leaking samovar is dangerous because indelible rust appears at the site of cracks. Its pores contain a large number of bacteria harmful to the human body. Also in water with rust, iron is present in high concentrations. Regular consumption of such a liquid will affect the functioning of the kidneys and liver. Metal in large volumes is poorly excreted from the body, so poisoning is inevitable.

In the old days, they did not know how harmful lead was to the body. The craftsman soldered dishes using this metal, without thinking about the consequences.

Kinds

Restoration of samovars can be complete, partial or museum. In the latter case, the appearance of the product is restored, but it further use purpose is not possible. Partial repairs provide for subsequent operation, but little attention is paid to restoring the original appearance of the item. With the complete restoration of the samovar, the internal parts of the product and its outer body are updated.

Partial

Most often, in order to restore the basic functions of a samovar, it is enough to polish the device, nickel plating, tinning, replacing handles, fittings, or eliminating a faucet leak. To polish the samovar, a regular dishwashing detergent will do.

You can thoroughly clean the plaque with tooth powder. This abrasive material does not scratch the surface.

If the key to the samovar faucet cannot be turned or removed, then to eliminate such a problem, special anti-corrosion agents will be needed that reduce the adhesion of metal to rust. After treating the part with grease, you should carefully remove it from the faucet. With your own hands, you can repair the elements of the vessel using nickel plating - this is the process of building up a layer of metal on the damaged area. The procedure is simple to perform, but is not applicable to tin, lead and zinc objects.

Integrated

Such a service as a complete restoration of a samovar is expensive for specialists. However, some problems can be fixed on your own. For example, dents are easily smoothed out with a rubber mallet. With gentle movements, tap on the protruding part of the dent. You can also correct irregularities with the help of mandrels. A metal hammer leaves marks from the impact. It is not suitable for straightening dents.

The complex restoration necessarily includes such procedures as replacing worn-out fittings, removing plaque, lapping, polishing, tinning, coating the product with nickel or silver. Also at home, you can solder the samovar. An important step is to find out exactly where the water is coming from. To work, you need to get a blowtorch or a propane-oxygen torch and copper-phosphorus solder.

The procedure is as follows:

1. Before soldering the dishes, they must be thoroughly cleaned of dirt.
2. Next, the flux is prepared: take 1 tablespoon of borax and boric acid, dilute them in 1 glass of boiling water.
3. Cracks are treated with the prepared flux.
4. Then the problem area is heated with a burner. The metal should acquire a reddish tint. In case of overheating, it will be much more difficult to solder.
5. Touch with solder to the heated section of the samovar. The metal will slowly begin to spread, falling into cracks.

You need to solder on a heat-resistant stand. good materials for this, a brick or asbestos plate is used.

Samovar tinning

In order to protect metal products from oxidation, their inner surface covered with tin. This method of processing dishes is called "tinning", and the applied layer of metal is called "half". To reduce the cost of tin, bismuth is additionally used. Lead impurities, as well as toxic salts, are forbidden to be used in the process of preparing poluda.

Tinning a samovar is a simple procedure that prevents the formation of corrosion on metal surfaces. Step-by-step instruction next:

1. In order for the tin to lay better, the inside of the dish must be well cleaned. It is advisable to use an iron brush - it will quickly remove dirt and oxidation.
2. Further metal product washed thoroughly with running water.
3. The dried inner cavity of the samovar is treated with ammonia.
4. Next, a little tin is placed in a heated dish. The metal should evenly cover all the walls of the vessel. After that, you need to wait for complete drying and setting of the half-day.

It's better to tinker on the street. If this is not possible, be sure to turn on the hood and open the windows. During the restoration activities, a lot of smoke will be generated.

DIY repair methods

Restoration of a samovar is a painstaking and difficult process. If you are not interested in the appearance of the product, at home you can eliminate some of the causes of breakage of dishes. Only specialists can restore a samovar without losing the beauty of its body. Of the tools and additional materials for self-restoration of the product, you may need: tin, hammer, abrasive, sandpaper, tow.

Repair steps at home:

• restoration of the hull (patching cracks, liquidation of leaks, straightening (removal of corrosion);
• cleaning the product from the inside (descaling, tinning);
• replacement of parts (if necessary);
• improvement appearance(polishing).

Hull restoration

If there are dents on the samovar, you can straighten the product with your own hands. To make it easier to correct irregularities, it is recommended to unsolder the free pipe. This simple technique allows you to freely place your hand, as well as tools inside the samovar. A wooden block in this case will perfectly play the role of an anvil. To align the body, use rubber mallet and measure the impact force so that the dent straightens. It is better to straighten the product on weight, so the pressure will not be transmitted to the body of the samovar.

Cracks in the body can be soldered if a torch is available. Often the samovar breaks from the bottom of the flame tube and, as a result, starts to leak. Restorers recommend soldering the body of the product from the inside - so the seam will be barely visible.

Crane repair

Lapping a faucet is quite feasible at home. If it leaks from the bottom of the product, then the key in it is located high. Conclusion: it must be lowered below, having treated it with lapping paste before that. Next, the samovar is filled hot water. Turn the key in the faucet in smooth circular motions until the liquid stops dripping. If it does not open at all, the mounting hole can be processed with a “liquid key”. After the time specified in the instructions, you need to lightly hit with a hammer on the stuck part of the structure.

After done repair work it is advisable to wash the samovar several times with diluted citric acid to leftovers abrasive didn't get into the tea.

Lubricate the samovar key with lapping paste

Then insert the key into the faucet. Fill a bowl with hot water

Turn the key several times

Replacement of internal elements

Presented for sale a large assortment taps for samovars, so replacing this accessory is quite simple. An important step in this matter is to correctly measure the parameters of the part. After purchase, lubricate the faucet vegetable oil or vaseline. This technique increases the service life of the product.

Often in a samovar grate fails. Before replacing the part, it is necessary to desolder the pipe. Its lower part must be checked for cracks. After these actions, a new grate is placed in the pipe, the body is cleaned. Further, the remaining parts of the samovar are installed in their places.

Faucet replacement

We solder the pipe

We mount the grate and solder the pipe back

Descaling folk methods

To get rid of scale, you can use special means containing organic acids. They effectively remove stubborn limescale without scratching the inside of the cookware. If there is no special powder at hand, you can use improvised means, for example, vinegar. It is diluted in water in a ratio of 1:5, the vessel is filled with the resulting mixture for a while (until the scale is completely dissolved).

Soda is an excellent remedy for hard deposits. For 1 liter of water, you need to take 3 tablespoons of loose powder, boil the resulting mixture in a samovar for about 20 minutes, then pour everything out and repeat the procedure, but by adding vinegar essence(1/2 cup of product for 4 liters of liquid).

Potato peels - faithful helpers in the fight against scale. The samovar should be filled by a third with them, covered to the top with water. After boiling, the vessel should be left with filled cleanings for several hours. After that, the samovar must be thoroughly washed soda solution. With regular cleaning of the product from scale, its thermal conductivity increases.

To improve the condition of the body of the samovar, you can use special polishing agents. They will not only restore the shine to the dishes, but also cover them. protective film which will prevent surface fading. When purchasing a polish, you must read the instructions. It is important to find out if the chosen agent is compatible with the metal from which the samovar is made. It is recommended to use Metal Cleaner for cupronickel vessels. You can make dishes shine folk ways, for example, rubbing it with sand, soda or chalk.

Video

Despite the variety of forms, samovars are arranged in the same way.

Each samovar consists of the following parts:

Wall (the main part of the samovar, where water is poured for boiling)

• Pitcher (an inner pipe in a samovar where fuel is placed: pine cones, branches, chips, coals)
• Circle (cast ring, which is located on the top of the wall)
• Neck (bottom of the samovar)
• Pallet (base of the samovar)
• Pens
• Repeek (figured plate attached to the wall of the samovar, into which the crane crashes)
• Branch (faucet handle, which can be of a wide variety of shapes and decorative ornaments)
• cone crane
• bottom
• Dushnichok (a hole on the lid of the samovar for releasing steam when boiling water)
• Bearings (nails for attaching wooden cones)
• Burner (a device for installing a teapot and for providing air flow if the burner is closed with a lid)
• Stopper (cap to close the jug)

So, a samovar is a one-piece thin-walled vessel, which is vertically pierced by a pipe, from the firebox to the burner. Fuel is injected through the pipe. The tube expands at the bottom. The firebox is attached to the bottom of the samovar at some distance from the table surface. This ensures stability and fire safety. Air passes through the grate into the pipe and naturally rises up, creating draft in the furnace. A crane is located at a short distance from the bottom. In rural huts, the samovar pipe was connected with a chimney using an L-shaped pipe, which provided draft. In the event that the fuel or the weather was damp, the samovar had to be inflated. This can be done through holes in the walls of the furnace, or with the help of a boot, the so-called "peasant way", which was worn on the samovar chimney. When the water begins to boil, a teapot is placed on the burner. Traction slows down. Water slowly comes to a boil, while brewing tea.

(Source Wikipedia)

Repairing samovars at first glance may seem like a simple thing, but this is only at first glance. We carry out almost any work on the repair of samovars, ranging from the usual soldering of cracks in the body (walls) and ending with complex work like replacing grates and repairing the inner pipe (jug).

Sample #1

Sample No. 1 required a difficult repair, as its jug was rotten at the bottom and had many damages on the walls in the places where the metal was drawn, where the walls are very thin. We weld all heat-heated parts with 800-degree solder. Also in sample No. 1, the spout and handles needed to be soldered.

Sample #2

Sample No. 2 was not afraid of this word, torn to pieces by some "specialists" (it was in this form that he came to us). The samovar originally had a rolling neck and pan, which were simply torn off (it is not clear why, because the reason for the customers' appeal was simple - the pitcher was leaking). We had to weld all the torn off parts with PSR-45, since the burning temperature of firewood can heat these parts much higher than the melting point of tin solder. Inner pipe(jug) was soldered with tin carbide solder, and then covered with POS-90 food grade solder for health safety.

Photos in the album "Samovar Nickel"

Sample #3

Hookahs

Hookah (pers. قلیان‎ - ghalyân, ghalyun) - a smoking device that allows you to filter and cool the inhaled smoke. The role of the filter is played by a vessel with water, wine or other liquid. A smoking cup is inserted into the vessel, connected to a pipe, the end of which goes under water. Above the water level, another tube leaves the vessel, to which a chubuk is attached. When smoking, a vacuum is created in the hookah vessel, due to which the smoke rises through the liquid and enters the smoker's lungs through a pipe with a shank.

The hookah was invented in India and quickly spread throughout the Muslim world, from Indo-China to Morocco. In Europe, it gained a certain popularity in the 19th century, in connection with the fashion for oriental exoticism. In Russia, it is not difficult to buy a hookah in any store of oriental souvenirs.

Source Wikipedia

Sample #1

It all started with the fact that for one of the projects I needed a miniature samovar. I'm afraid that this samovar will never be finished, so I'm showing you a work in progress. It is rather a prototype on which the technology of working with metal was worked out.

Material:

In the bins I found a copper plate about 0.8 mm thick in quantities sufficient for work. After the release of the plate, it turned out to be a surprise for me that this is copper-plated brass. Well, brass, so brass, I decided, for working out the technology it was not important which metal to use. This is what I thought at the beginning, until the brass ran out ... But more on that below.

In order to eliminate unnecessary soldering work, wherever possible, I used copper pipe. It turned out to be easier to find a copper tube than silver solder for soldering brass, and even brass itself. Having searched all the local collection points for non-ferrous metal, I did not find any plates or tubes. The range included only copper wire and brass faucets. I had enough of my own wires, and plumbing brass is not particularly distinguished by quality, thick, and even hard.

As a result, in the construction market, a 3/4 inch (about 17 mm) copper tube was taken for the body; for the burner, the neck and the top of the lid - a tube of 10 mm; the jug consists of two tubes with a diameter of 6 and 10 mm.

For the crane, I took a copper wire with a diameter of 3 mm, which also ended up in the bins.

All semi-circular and flat elements are made from the same 3/4 tube, released, cut lengthwise and deployed.

Additionally, I also bought soldering acid and copper-phosphorus solder.

Tool:

From a special tool I bought only a torch for hard solder, good metal scissors, a pipe cutter. Everything else was already there: a dremel engraver, a drill, files, needle files, sandpaper, a soldering iron, vices, hammers, pliers and round nose pliers.

Technology:

Well, first of all, about the processing of brass. “First on the list” was the manufacture of a crane. For the spout, I took a brass tube from an old room antenna for a TV with a diameter of 2.5 mm. We have a "point" of plumbers in the basement of the house, and I saw them special machine for pipe bending. Because I don't have industrial production samovars, with the manufacture of such a device for our scale did not bother. And of course, I immediately got a “positive experience” the tube folded in half and didn’t look like a crane at all ... But “our locomotive flies forward”, we immediately cut off the bent end, let it go, after a short search for a steel cable, we give up this lesson and take a stranded copper wire . We insert it into the tube and bend it with round-nose pliers. We get something more or less similar to a crane.

To those who follow me a little advice how to bend a tube without problems - 1) tightly fill the tube with coarse salt, solder or clamp the ends of the tube, bend the tube, then wash the salt; 2) fill the tube with water, freeze, bend the tube, defrost the water; 3) wind a coil of wire coil to coil according to the size of the inner diameter of the tube, insert the coil into the tube, bend the tube, pull out the coil.

Deciding to more or less follow the technology of making samovars for the body, he bent a brass plate into a tube and soldered the POS (tin-lead solder). To remove the "scar" tried to forge it on steel pipe. But as I said, the brass was hard and it did not flatten, but tore. Therefore, further the body was made of a copper tube.

Three attempts to make the top cover failed, or rather torn. Even after the release, the brass did not want to bend according to the pattern. The template was sharpened from wood with a file on a drill. The copper was softer, but thick enough for my health. Without lathe bending according to the prepared template turned out to be quite difficult. Therefore, the sphere from the bottom of the body, the lid and the pallet were forged from copper plates.

A jug is soldered inside the pallet, which is assembled from two tubes 6 and 10 mm. Moreover, the smaller one is flared with a core under inner diameter larger tube. It took so much solder to connect the tubes and the pallet that it then had to be melted and poured out of the body. As a result of this action, inner part samovar turned out to be tinned, like a real one. The only difference is that my solder cannot be used for food purposes.

It seems to me that most of the time was just spent on making the cover. Since it consists of three elements, which strove to “run up” when soldering. The first version of the cover was even soldered with copper-phosphorus solder. But since there was no experience with hard solders, there were SUCH influxes inside the lid that even a dremel was poorly removed. The second option turned out better, but when fitting to the body, I had to redo the side several times.

For the lack of an ankh with punzels, I made a sphere for the bottom on a wooden matrix, used it as a striker round pen from a file. Then he drew a plane on the skin and soldered it to the body on the POS.

The pallet is made from the same 3/4 tube, cut lengthwise and unrolled. I used 2 hammers here. One was used as a matrix, the second was used for its intended purpose - it knocked. Forged twice. The first version, after processing with a file, turned out to be small in size and discordant with other parts.

The relief for the burner and the neck was squeezed out by hand on a round file. The holes on the burner and the neck were drilled with a 1 mm drill without further ado. But in the original versions of the samovar, the pattern on the burner and neck is more intricate. I think that it was possible to apply LUT, but on corrugated surfaces this is quite difficult to do. Most likely in the next model I will use it or try a similar technique.

We return to the crane. At that time, it was not possible to find a capillary copper tube, so a faucet made of 3 mm copper wire. Soldered into the case with a pipe. It was possible to put it on a thread, but by the time I “reached” this, the body had already been drilled exactly to the diameter of the crane.

A hole is drilled in the tip, imitating that the crane is working (by the way, the crane in Yasnaya Polyana souvenir samovars is also fake). A turnkey insert is soldered and drilled onto the tap. The key is also made of 3 mm wire, which I clamped into the drill chuck and sharpened with needle files. Two copies were made, the latter liked more. The branch for the key is made from a piece of copper plate, soldered with copper-phosphorus solder. The only thing that worked in this project the first time :)

He sharpened all wooden handles, holding a block from an apple tree in a drill. When attaching handles made of wood, there is one problem - they fall apart when the ends of the rods on which they are planted are riveted. I tried to sharpen from copper, it turned out. But then there will be no real certainty. The problem is solved as follows: 1) We make 2 rivets with a total length like a handle. We put the handle and put the rivets on the glue, each on its own side. 2) We take a wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 1 mm, leave a place for the length of the handle and grind the ends for rivets up to 0.5-0.8 mm in diameter. Next, we put the handle on the glue, insert it in place and rivet it. The stock of metal will not allow to expand and save the handle. I hope to show in the next model or if I still finish this one.

The problem that got me out of the rhythm of work was how to attach the handles to the body. In the original, each handle is mounted on a screw and soldered. I chose simple handles in the form of a bracket and decided to solder them. It was not difficult to make handles - forged, bent, turned, drilled holes, polished. I wrote about the problems with wooden handles above, but a new one, UNSOLVABLE at that time, arose. About 20 times I tried to solder the handles to the body, using both rosin and soldering acid, and even drilled holes to make the tin numb and hold, I used both a soldering iron and a burner ... The result is the same - the handles fall off !!! In addition, the wooden handles were charred after experiments with the burner. Putting the handle stupidly on the riveting did not work. Firstly, you can’t really crawl inside, the jug is soldered, secondly, the riveting breaks the handle, thirdly, you won’t knock hard, the body changes shape.

The way out was obvious, but not so quickly solved. For a very long time I could not find a set of dies and taps for threads less than 3M. As a result, I bought 3 sets (for 1.4, 1.8, 2.3) at inflated prices at the Hobbies Fair. Now I'm looking for drills for these threads.

Without a special tool (a lathe, anchors, punzels, hour taps and dies), it is possible to make a model of a samovar on the knee. True, this will take much more time.

The LUT technology allows you to make more subtle things (for example, a key, holes on the burner and neck, handles, inscriptions), which you can’t even climb with a needle file or engraver. I'm thinking about using it.