From the book "Smart Garden. How to outsmart the climate. N. I. Kurdyumov, V. K. Zhelezov:

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Chapter 5

Don't kill seedlings by planting

"Oh, garden head!" - this is about the erudition of our summer residents.

Many people understand the word “plant” literally: to poke, bury, put in place. In extreme cases, do everything according to the instructions in the gardening textbook. I offer the real, true meaning of this word: to plant means to ensure the longevity and health of the tree at the time of planting. Otherwise, it is not clear why we poke and bury. Hence the result.

HOW TO DIE A SEEDLING BY PLANTING "BY SCIENCE"

Look at Figure 1. In similar versions, he has been roaming hundreds of horticultural publications for more than a century. This is a classic "book" planting, consecrated by the authority of many famous gardeners. And so I take the liberty of asserting: it is this method of landing - "into the recess" - that is fatal for the North and Siberia. And for many places in the south - too.

I read fresh literature, receive hundreds of letters from all over Russia.

Surprisingly: gardeners seem to know everything. But they cannot grow the same apricot! Why? I think I have found the cause of many failures. But first, I recall the article by A. I. Sychev “Apricot Paradoxes”. From it it is clear that to the north of Voronezh and Kursk, apricots can, as they say, be counted on the fingers; that the most terrible enemy of apricots in the middle lane is snow, and that warming due to snow is the main reason for failures in growing apricots. Paradox: in the south, apricots do not grow because it is warm - there are many diseases, and in the north - because it is cold and there is a lot of snow!

The article by M. G. Maksimenko, which reflects the classical view of a European fruit grower, does not add optimism either: “The main factor hindering the spread of this crop in the northern latitudes is cold winters. Apricot trees can withstand frosts down to -25°C for 3-4 days, up to -32°C - no more than a day, -35 ... -38°C - only a few hours. All this refers to the period of deep dormancy (end of December - beginning of January). In February and early March, the critical temperature for apricots is -20°C...”.

Yes! .. A real verdict on apricots. It turns out that in the entire territory of central Russia there is no place where the apricot would survive. And even more so in Siberia! It's good that we didn't know about it. So they planted half of the Minusinsk basin with apricots - out of ignorance. Near Irkutsk, apricots of T. V. Eremeeva bear fruit, in Krasnoyarsk - varieties of M. V. Makarov, in Abakan - varieties of I. L. Baikalova. And the varieties of P. S. Sharkov near Nizhny Novgorod bore fruit after the critical winter of 2010/2011 - apparently, also from ignorance ...

But maybe there is another reason for the death of apricots? I'm sure there is.

In the same article, M. G. Maksimenko teaches us how to plant apricots correctly. Of course, according to the classics - in the recesses. And then the author complains that apricots have a weak root neck!

“... Having filled the pit, they form a 12-15 cm high earthen mound around it so that the water lingers during irrigation.” Of course, the water will linger. And not only after the rains, but also in the spring, when the snow melts, the hole will be filled for weeks: the frozen ground does not absorb water at this time. During the day, the root neck in the water suffocates - it rots, and at night the ice, tearing the bark, completes its destruction. The funny thing is that after a couple of years the roots leave the planting hole to the periphery, and the depression around the trunk remains for many years. Moreover, the pit itself will settle - it turns out a "funnel". I call this planting "death to a tree." If the soil is clayey - "death with a guarantee." In the Kuban, in the loamy foothills, in some snowy winters, when water stagnates in such "puddles" in the spring, not only stone fruits, even apple trees, rot. And the snowy zones of Siberia simply groan from the dampness of stone fruit!

You can go crazy: first we plant trees in the recesses, and then we complain that their root collar is rotting! Look at photo 28, on the right: the last pre-death harvest of a beautiful young apricot. It sits in a recess - the root neck is almost snuffed out. That's the reason why there are almost no apricots anywhere! Few plums - rotting root neck, few pears - rotting root neck (same photo, left). The wonderful felt cherry has almost disappeared: its root neck is even weaker. But there are probably millions of such “deadly” landings all over Russia. The most "strong" root neck of apple trees. But even they, planted in depressions, do not live in Siberia for more than 15-20 years. And they would sit in the hills - they would be alive. I affirm this not from scratch - I learned from bitter experience. In the past twenty years, not a single tree has rotted out in my garden. And how many rotten root necks I saw in other gardens - do not count!

You say: why complicate? Okay, the pits are dangerous, but you can plant out of the blue! I will answer: no matter how. I have a flat place - a school of apricots. Usually there is little snow, it is dry, and the soil under it is frozen. The usual marriage after the winter - a few pieces. But then a mild winter happened - half a meter of snow fell even before frost. Every fifth seedling had to be rejected due to dampness! And there will be more and more of these winters.

Here are my findings.

In areas where such snowy winters are common, a significant proportion of stone fruits will still rot. After all, you can’t force everyone to be planted in the hills.

It is here that it is necessary to carry out mass selection for the resistance of the root neck and bark to decay - to sow thousands of seeds and select the most resistant trees in order to obtain rootstocks from them.

The most preferred planting of stone fruits in these areas is not even just in the hills, but better on the natural southern slopes of the hills and foothills.

Recently, advice has appeared in our press to plant apricots in very high hills - up to a meter, even up to one and a half meters. I'm sure this is another extreme. In places with especially severe frosts, it is just as dangerous. And in Novosibirsk sometimes there is snowlessness. We will save the bark - we will freeze the roots.

DON'T DIG A PIT - YOU WILL GET INTO IT YOURSELF

Photo 29 shows some of my apricots. Spring flood. The trees are planted in a hill (Fig. 2). Please note: the snow level near the trunk is less than around. And there is no water at the base of the trunk. It's enough! And we are taught to shovel wet snow from the stem, freeze the damp earth in a recess, then shovel snow again - in order to “delay flowering”. And no one asked the roots of apricots, and especially the root collar: how tolerable are these manipulations for them? It turns out, not much. Our Manchus grow in nature on dry mountain slopes, Asians - in dry snowless valleys, also preferring slopes. Nowhere in nature do apricots grow in "puddles"!

A century and a half ago, the garden genius Nikolai Gaucher recommended planting on a hill: the width of the hill is 2-2.5 m, the height in the center is 30-40 cm. in the fossa, the root collar is slightly elevated above the surface (Fig. 3). I wonder why THIS classic did not take root? Thank God it's been resurfacing lately. Landing in the hills has long been strongly recommended by the former director of the Michurinsky Garden of the Timiryazev Academy, V. I. Susov. N. I. Kurdyumov has long been writing about it, in relation to damp places.

I am sure that in a harsh climate it is simply impossible to plant otherwise.

It turns out that the remarkable gardener of Smolensk, the head of the large farm "Pitomnik" Yu. He grows seedlings in containers. I admire the simplicity and reasonableness of his landing method!

Look at photo 30, compiled from a report from chuguev.ru. On level ground, we weed and loosen the soil with a chopper, in the center we put a bag with a seedling (or just a lump taken out of the pot) (Fig. 4). We drive in a stake, we tie a seedling to it. We cut the container and remove the fabric. Slowly pour a bucket of water on someone. And then we just throw it with earth - we throw a gentle mound, picking up soil from the sides (photo 30 below). We pour another bucket of water on it, mulch it with organic matter - grass, straw. Everything! Trees develop quickly, begin to bear fruit early and, most importantly, never rot! Yuri Mikhailovich considers the reason for success to be the blowing of snow and the outflow of water from the stem, the rapid heating of the hill and the high activity of microflora.

I do the opposite, but with the same result: I plant it in a hill prepared in advance. In Siberia, it is better to prepare hills from autumn: they can be planted when the ground has just begun to thaw from the surface. So, to extend the short summer of the tree for one or two weeks.

Many are already familiar with the high ridges of Sepp Holzer. Yu. M. Chuguev has been using this truly breakthrough landing method for a long time. Grapes planted on high ridges separated by ditches (photo 31) steadily produce commercial crops in Smolensk! In the same way, only without ditches, all stone fruits, even frost-resistant varieties of sweet cherries, are planted near Chuguev. The result is very consistent yields and excellent tree health.

Finally, I cannot help but mention the strange, to put it mildly, method of landing: “on the substrate”. They often say - "for drainage." In the south, vigorous walnuts are planted this way: bricks or a piece of iron are placed under the chopped tap root. Suffering from this obstacle for two years, the seedling tree grows weaker and begins to bear fruit earlier. Although this is barbaric, it is still understandable for the south. But when the substrate is advised in places with close groundwater, so that “the roots do not go deep,” and I hear this in Siberia, I just shrug.

Apparently, the authors of the technique somehow "humanize" the tree: they say, the roots will collide with an obstacle, and obediently begin to grow to the sides - like a stupid subordinate. No matter how! No matter what you put under the roots, they will still recover, find their way down and will develop all the available soil. And they were cut off. So why spoil them even with this?!

They often write about "drainage" - they advise putting a layer of broken brick, expanded clay or stone on the bottom of the pit. And it's not clear to me why. It does not save from flooding - the water in the pit is higher than any bricks. If it is sand or sandy loam, it is better to throw clay soil under the seedling - it will hold more moisture, give more nutrition. And if the soil is not flooded, such drainage is simply not needed. It seems that here we are just trying to turn the pit into a "flower pot", without thinking about the meaning of our actions.

In general, hurried gardeners do their best to quickly squeeze the first crop out of trees. Indeed, greed is stronger than reason.

They do not even think: the more interference with the tree, the less its total yield. There is even such a myth - to transplant a tree several times. Well, how many times they transplanted, so many times and the yield is less.

TRANSPLANT TWICE - GET FERTILIZED FASTER!

What is true is true! A crippled tree quickly bears fruit. Such gardeners, more precisely - "sadists", do not have enough patience to wait for the harvest from a healthy developed tree. Their goal is a quick harvest at any cost. The purpose of the tree is to have time to extend its kind. A transplant is a terrible ordeal. And he is not up to growth: in a panic, he is reorganized into fruits. But WARNING! - it will never give as many fruits as it is laid down in its development program for the rest of its life.

For a long time I could not understand why this evidence is inaccessible to the understanding of "sadists". And it looks like I found it. The book of the outstanding gardener R.I. Schroeder "Russian Garden, Nursery and Orchard" describes repeated transplantation of trees. But - not grafted seedlings, and for the purpose of selection! And this is just understandable. A seedling apple tree can bloom for the first time in the 10-15th, even 20th year! To speed up flowering, you have to replant. And well-read summer residents, “hearing the ringing” and without thinking, transplant grafted seedlings, turning them into disabled people.

There are also habits. Often trees are replanted because "probably the place is bad." Moreover, they write about it, and Zhelezov too. But I know for sure - the place is to blame! And here it’s just an instinct: it didn’t work out here - maybe it will work out there.

And even worse, almost none of the summer residents simply have a goal to grow a good tree. It should grow by itself, the seller should be responsible for it - and I have nothing to do with it. Not growing, is it dead? I'm going to buy a new one. Maybe it will grow better - it's interesting ... What, and it dies? Well, vile traders! I’ll go and buy three more pieces: well, not everyone is such a deceiver! ..

AND LANDING TIME CAN BE DAMAGED!

When is the best time to plant - that is, transplant young trees? Imagine a question so complex and confusing that it needs clarification. Open books, newspapers, gardening magazines. Discover five options:

It is necessary to transplant only in the fall.

Only in spring.

It is better to plant pome crops in autumn, and stone fruits in spring.

Trees should be planted in spring and shrubs in autumn.

In the southern regions, all species should be planted in the fall, and in the northern regions - only in the spring.

The most common opinion is that in the North and Siberia, autumn plantings are fatal. I will object: it depends on what moment and what kind of seedlings!

First of all: planting "invalids of childhood" with chopped off roots is detrimental at any time. And with an intact root system, you can plant even in the fall, even in the spring. You need to transplant a tree with a large clod of earth - so that even in June the leaves do not wither!

But even if the lump is good, there is an optimal transplantation period. Communicating with hundreds of novice gardeners, I was convinced: yes, many of them killed their pets only by planting them in the fall. But - it is in late autumn! This is the main mistake. When transplanting, no matter how hard you try, the roots are still damaged, the leaves wither and fall off. The tree does not have time to take root, which means to prepare for winter. If you're lucky, it will immediately cover it with snow, and it, even if it has not taken root, will sit out comfortably until spring. No luck - the frosty wind will dry the crown, devoid of moisture: the roots did not have time to grow. And the roots in this form do not resist frost.

In my gardening life, I have transplanted thousands of seedlings in the fall. And failures were very rare. The secret is this: I transplant them not in late autumn, but early: the end of August - the beginning of September. Seedlings with leaves and a mass of whole roots were moved to a new place. They continue to grow, and before frost they manage to get used to the ground, grow new roots, normally shed their leaves and finish the ripening of the buds. In winter, the crown receives moisture from the roots, and frost resistance is normal. Such trees overwinter well and wake up on time in spring - about a month earlier than seedlings. spring planting. Those are still recovering, until they start growing - July is coming soon. They probably won't mature by winter. These will start right away. And the growth is good, and the vegetation is long - they have time to prepare for the winter.

You see, only a month difference in fit, and how many pluses! The usual market situation: the seedlings were taken out still green, but there are almost no roots. Here the seller sniffs the leaves so that they do not evaporate moisture, and the seedlings do not dry out. Rip off in one motion from top to bottom: do not waste your time! And this is the most barbaric trick: dozens of fresh wounds near the kidneys, and winter is ahead! The most serious gardeners, sparing no effort, cut each leaf, leaving the petiole. The measure is forced - for the long-distance transportation of hundreds of seedlings.

I don't remove leaves. The leaf - the "solar battery" - must be completed to the end, give all its substances to the branch and axillary bud. To cut green leaves for me is the same as immediately cutting off the umbilical cord of a newborn. I dig out, keeping a large earthen clod, and carefully put it in a cardboard box - the seedling continues to live. And lately I have been growing a lot of seedlings in containers. Almost the entire root system is preserved here, except for the lower part of the tap root that has sprouted through the hole (photos 32 and 33).

It is quite another matter to cut off part of the crown. This is necessary for two reasons. First, some of the roots are still lost. The crown has become too big. In the spring, when it gets warm, all the buds will begin to demand water - and the roots are sorely lacking! Instead of growth - stupor, emergency restructuring: building up roots due to the supply of branches. A year lost is at best. Secondly, it is better to make our trees bushy. And the earlier the first pruning “on a bush” is made, the better: there will be no wounds on the trunk. On photo 32 - Artyom's son demonstrates a strong seedling; the red lines roughly show the required pruning. In photo 33 - the son of Seryozha holds an even more powerful, double seedling: Souvenir of the East is grafted onto one stock with Hungarian pear-shaped. The sapling is trimmed - ready for transplanting.

For transplanting, I choose a cloudy, rainy day is better. Any loss of moisture for a transplanted tree is stressful.

Before digging, I take a brush and put tiny marks on the stems with paint - on the south side at the level of the root neck (we marked it in photo 63). It is necessary to plant so that the mark is again from the south and again strictly at the level of the soil. Why this extra work? The north wind burned the seedling on one side, and the hot sun burned on the opposite side. The root neck breathed freely. In a new place it should be the same - so it is much easier for the tree to adapt.

A seedling transplanted in this way will not only never die, but in most cases it will bloom a year earlier than the "spring" one.

Well, what if you are late with planting in early autumn, but there is an opportunity to purchase a good seedling? An inexperienced gardener plants, and you already know the result. Thrifty digs in an inclined position, as books teach (Fig. 5). Here it is important to observe four conditions:

So that the roots and half of the crown are covered with earth.

So that there are no air voids in the ground, otherwise the roots will become moldy.

And so that there is no water, the roots will rot.

To keep the mice out. It is necessary to dig in where there is no grass cover, and hence mice. For example, in the potato field.

Make a dig as close to winter as possible so that autumn rains do not rot the seedlings.

But the traditional, inclined dig has its drawbacks. Usually, even before winter, the seedling manages to get used to the ground a little. And in the spring, before planting, it also grows roots. And then he was unceremoniously pulled - and again to a new place. But most importantly, it is very difficult to comply with all the conditions - there is a risk that the seedlings will get wet. Having rotted my pears in this way after an unexpectedly rainy late autumn, I began to dig in seedlings without risk - I came up with a vertical dig with planting in place (photo 34). The seedling has been sitting in a permanent place since late autumn, but the crown is half protected from frost by loose earth. The top will freeze - it's not scary, everything is intact in the earthen cone. It's dry enough for the bark to breathe. And the survival of the top and frost resistance is immediately clear. In the spring, the sooner the better, it remains only to rake the earth.

Well, if you still decide to plant a seedling in the spring, then do it as early as possible: when the earth thaws for a bayonet or two spade bayonets. And if the pits are prepared in advance, in the fall, you can plant even earlier. A run in time will give the tree at least some chance to finish the growing season by winter. But I don't make any guarantees here.

FERTILIZERS IN THE PLANTING PIT: BENEFIT OR DEATH?

He told novice gardeners hundreds of times how to prepare a planting hole, how and where to fertilize. And it never happened again. The quality of the soil is different everywhere - from rich black soil to gravel and sand. Different relief, humidity - stagnant water or dry hills. What are the common patterns or norms here?

But such recommendations are found in the literature. And they make you smile. Especially for fertilization with an accuracy of grams per square meter. In general, for a hundred years textbooks have been prescribing a standard "planting kit": at least two or three buckets of humus and a full set of mineral fertilizers for one planting hole. Many summer residents are at a loss: where to get so much fertilizer, for what shisha? Humus, and he is now "biting". For the sake of interest, I calculated: a manure machine costs as much as all the vegetables for the whole year for an average family!

Meanwhile, others well-known specialists they advise the exact opposite: do not apply any fertilizers to the pits. Examples are given when, due to the abundance of fertilizers, the trees fattened, went "for firewood", did not bear fruit, were very sick or froze out due to the extended vegetation. “Dig planting holes so that only the roots enter, and no fertilizer in the holes. Otherwise, your tree will die or be sick for a long time, ”writes our farmer E.I. Piskunov.

Many experienced gardeners say the same. From the very beginning, the roots of a seedling should actively develop - look for food, go deep and wide. In a fertilized pit, they do not grow, but simply “eat” and “drink”, waiting for handouts. The slightest stress - and the end of the tree.

So who is right? It depends on situation.

First of all, do not take any textbooks, let alone European ones, literally. Look with your eyes and start from the condition of the soil and the specific site. There are different extremes!

Planting an orchard at the Sayanogorsk aluminum smelter - three hundred trees - was not easy. My reputation is at stake. The place is open, blown by the winds. And instead fertile land on the site - solid gravel with sand: the bottom of an ancient reservoir. I had to create the soil artificially - to plant trees in huge "pit-pots". Forced, risky technology, and later I abandoned it. But at that time it was standard. Soil analysis and recommendations were given by Abakan agroecologists.

The holes were dug with an excavator. They filled them with clay, imported black soil and a huge amount of humus - up to 200 kg per tree. He strictly monitored that the humus did not come into contact with the roots of the seedlings. The set of nutrients was strengthened by scattering complex mineral fertilizers around the tree trunks. Precipitation is small - they will not be assimilated immediately. But still on some trees the leaves turned black. Looking at the numbers of microelement deficiency, I sprayed the leaves of pears, apple trees and apricots with a chelate solution ((chelates are organic metal compounds, usually salts of organic acids: acetic, oxalic, citric, etc. More natural for plants, better absorbed, little conflict in solutions), iron and copper preparations.

Most of the trees feel satisfactory, bloom and bear fruit. A smaller part died due to frost and steppe winds, or maybe just because of an excess of humus. Could these trees grow on sand and gravel without artificial soil? I don’t know for sure, there was no control, but it’s unlikely. I am sure that it was not in vain that I excluded direct contact of the roots with fertilizers and humus. Pure humus is dangerous. I specially planted seedlings in old humus - they hardly grow, and then they die.

The opposite situation: you fertile soil with good drainage. Look around: the trees are growing powerfully, the grass is huge. And without analysis it is clear: any fertilizer here is overfeeding! All the seedling needs is not to dry out. The owners of such gardens generally cannot feed the trees before they give three good harvests. This will be discussed further in the chapter on nutrition.

The Kuban and the Rostov region are famous for their fertile black soil. The trees there suffer from "gigantism" - hence, by the way, the constant cruel pruning. But the Soviet bureaucrats believed in the authorities more than in nature: there is a fertilizer fund - if you please, spend it! And agronomists poured. The trees fatten, the rod "for firewood", they get sick, they do not produce a crop for eight years. And then - it's scary to imagine - under the ax, dozens of hectares!

Now consider our usual situation: the soil is suitable, but not so hot - the food is not enough. That is, a version of my garden. There are still scientific discussions about how best to fertilize. Some argue: mineral water should be poured from above, others - no, only deeper. Some - what should be brought in evenly, others - what is local, in "heaps" ...

I act simply: I take an example from nature. How does nature feed trees? From above, organic matter of fallen leaves and dead grass, with the help of microbes and fungi. So did I: after planting a seedling, spilling and ramming the soil, I simply mulch the trunk circle.

The best mulch is manure or compost, but both grass and leaves are fine. I put a thicker layer, 6-8 cm. In summer, such a mulch prevents the tree from suffering from drought. Under the mulch, sometimes I throw a handful of complex fertilizers or scatter a spatula of ash, but more often I get by with one organic matter: it has everything. In mulch and plant a bent field. Worms, fungi and bacteria will gradually deal with plant residues, and the roots themselves will be able to take what they need. And by autumn, the near-trunk circle will be covered with a bent carpet.

CONTAINERS - FUTURE RATE FOR NURSERY RATE

There are no perfect seedlings for sale. But the method of growing with a closed root system is an order of magnitude better and more reliable than forcing two-meter seedlings, and then selling them with short stumps of roots. In the Siberian markets, most of them are undermined. But, thank God, advanced nurseries are already switching to container growing. It is a pity that this applies mainly to ornamental crops.

Why are seedlings in containers still so rare? It's all about the price. A container seedling requires almost three times as much labor, plus the price of the container itself. Why bother when people are chasing cheapness? But the one who buys a seedling in a container, paying double the price, will ultimately benefit. Most novice gardeners plant seedlings carelessly: they do not straighten the roots, they do not exactly see the root collar, they do not trim. But the main trouble of "naked" seedlings is that the roots are crippled. A container seedling does not have all these problems: it was carefully taken out and planted with a lump. Survival is 100%. Of course, you still need to trim it, but not necessarily before transplanting.

Wealthy people visit me, but I didn’t meet real gardeners among them until a big businessman from St. Petersburg arrived. Talking to him was a real pleasure. He knowledgeably asked questions about everything related to my work. I was satisfied with the quality of the seedlings, but they were not suitable for long-distance transportation. And he made a special order: to grow seedlings in containers. Now I grow some of the seedlings. I share my experience.

Container - any container that is light and strong enough to grow and then transport seedlings to any distance. All Dutch ornamental plants, including conifers and trees, are sold in special technical pots made of thin cheap plastic - in which they grew to their marketable appearance. I bought it and immediately transplanted it without disturbing the root system. For fruit trees in areas with a harsh climate, you can’t imagine better.

Excellent packaging - bags made of polypropylene fabric, like from sugar or flour. In such bags with a volume of 3-5 liters, many of our nurseries sell seedlings. True, not all of them grow there. More often they pack there by digging in the field. But the roots do not dry out, as in the market - already great. Plastic paint buckets are very good (photos 32 and 33). And large nurseries sell young two-meter trees in huge plastic bags.

For us gardeners, the main values ​​of container growing are painless move and planting in a new place with absolutely whole roots. Such a seedling can be planted at any time of the year, except for winter. Even in summer - if it is well watered and shaded in the first weeks. But I still stick to the safest deadlines. My choice is early spring and early autumn.

In containers, you can root cuttings of shrubs, and grow seedlings of trees. You can first root in beds, and grow in containers. You can immediately plant in them for rooting.

The "from the garden" option allows you to preserve natural selection. First, we sow as many seeds or seeds as possible. In autumn we select the best of the best. We transplant them, always with a lump, into a container with a capacity of 5-10 liters, according to the size of the roots. The best time for this is cloudy, rainy days in late August or early September: the period of autumn root growth. Further, the colder, the worse the growth of the roots, which means that the survival rate is weaker.

We bury the containers flush with the ground and water well. Before winter, the plants are firmly rooted. Winter is the time of selection for frost resistance. In early spring - vaccination. Over the next summer, the seedling will develop, tightly grow into the soil of the container and acquire a marketable appearance. Although here we partially damage the central root during transplantation - it has sprouted through the drainage hole, but the lush lateral roots remain completely intact.

Planting such a seedling in place is very easy, as discussed below.

Ideally, sow seeds and seeds not in a garden bed, but immediately in a container. There is only one problem: not every seed is a future tall and healthy seedling. Half of the containers may be left without plants. Therefore, sow 3-4 seeds in containers. They will sprout - leave the strongest seedling. This is the most survivable seedling.

I prepare the land for containers without any tricks: I take the top layer of soil. No additives and mineral fertilizers! Feed "from the belly" - the seedling grows disproportionately huge with the same volume of roots. Vegetation is delayed, viability is clearly reduced. For me, it is no longer a commodity.

Usually, drainage is placed at the bottom of the pots: a layer of expanded clay, pebbles, or broken bricks. For houseplants, it's fine. But in nurseries, I would not advise doing this: extra work. Tried it this way and that. In my version, the roots grow through the bottom holes. Seedlings receive additional development, grow more powerful - like in a garden.

And now let's summarize everything that has been said.

MEMO FOR PLANTING SEEDLINGS IN HARD CLIMATE

It is best to plant a seedling in early autumn. The transplant time is determined as follows: after the end of fruiting, two to four weeks are added. In Siberia, this is usually August 25 - September 15. From this time until the cold weather, there is a rapid growth of new roots, the seedling has time to prepare for the winter, and in the spring it grows early and powerfully.

The second option is to dig up a seedling after the leaves fall and the first frosts and dig in. And better - vertically, in place. Otherwise you risk - it is checked up on bitter experience. I would not have invented a vertical dig if I had not rotted the seedlings in the usual one!

The third way - the seedling is dug up and planted in early spring, as early as possible, just before the start of sap flow. The term is when the soil has thawed out by 1-2 bayonets of a shovel. That is, when it is already possible to dig a seedling with a large clod of earth.

At least for all stone fruits, and better for all crops in general, prepare gently sloping mounds 30-40 cm high. And better - in advance, from autumn. Always plant in hills, never in depressions!

If the soil is normal, although not black soil, do not put any fertilizer in the planting holes.

Seedlings without a good coma, with bare roots, are already a big risk. It happens that the earth does not hold - the clod is falling apart. I immediately transplant them into a container, immediately dousing the roots with water and cutting them off more than usual.

On the root collar, before digging, make a mark at ground level so that in no case bury the seedling deeper.

In a new place, the seedling should also be located relative to the cardinal points, as before transplanting. You can argue with this, but my experience is for it.

Before planting, shorten the crown by about half. If you managed to dig out with a large lump - by a third. But no less!

It is difficult to do the correct planting of an ordinary seedling with bare roots alone. Better two. One keeps the seedling strictly at the right level. To do this, you need to press the seedling against a pre-driven stake. Another straightens the roots, covers them with the first layer of earth, waters them so that the earth sags well, then falls asleep completely and waters again. Then both mulch a little and trample down the mound. The main thing here is to keep the seedling from settling and deepening. After trampling, the root collar mark should remain at the same height above the soil surface as it was.

Apply organic matter on top, in the form of mulch. But make sure that the layer of mulch is not closely piled on the bole! It is also fraught with decay. Step back from the bole 15-20 cm. If the mulch is dense (humus, compost, compost), be sure to make grooves in it to drain water from the bole. Over the years, put the mulch further and further from the trunk - along the external projection of the crown. This is where the feeding roots are concentrated.

It is much safer and more efficient to land in overcast, and better in rainy weather.

A seedling planted with leaves must be shaded in hot weather (and this still happens in September!) Arrange sloping canopies covering the seedling from above and from the south side. After two or three weeks, they can be removed.

Hide less winter-hardy varieties from the wind behind the house, barn, high fence, and form from the first year in the form of a bush. How - we'll talk in the chapter on pruning.

One-year-old seedlings take root better than two-year-old and even more so three-year-old ones. The older the seedling, the larger the root ball should be left when transplanting.

And finally - again and again: a truly viable and durable tree - grown from a stone and here, on the spot, a grafted seedling that never transplants. He has a full-fledged tap root - the main source of strength. This root has a special role: to penetrate as deep as possible into the moist subsoil, saturated with solutions, and supply them to the tree with a guarantee all year round. In a harsh climate, no humus and fertilizers can replace this role.

I repeat, and will repeat my call to all gardeners with serious intentions: grow your own trees! Use every opportunity not to violate the nature of the tree!

Site author's note. Basically, it's basically a paraphrase of the planting methods adopted in modern horticulture. You can read about this on the page "Planting horticultural crops", if you overcome the prejudice of V.K. in relation to book literature and southern or European technologies. I think you do not have such prejudices and you will find much more material there than is presented in this chapter. Only they are written more professionally and competently.

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Feed or drink?

Let's go back to our cottages. What is the best way to feed a garden? The best thing is to feed and drink. In nature, the plant is always eating, drinking. Both in the north and in the south.

I apologize for the short essay. What is the basis of plant nutrition? And all in unison: nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus! Whoever read "Peace Instead of Protection" will smile slyly: carbon, organics! Fine. And here I recently observed waste heaps - dumps of Donetsk mines, and then quarry dumps of granite and marble. And there, and there, trees grow like a carpet - powerfully, and without a crumb of humus! We have to dig deeper. And it turns out that the main basis of nutrition is water. Whether it is the "broth" of the decay of organic matter or minerals - these are all aqueous solutions. It is with water that carbon dioxide enters the roots - the source of carbon from which the plant builds itself. Water is the basis of nutrition, and the substances dissolved in it are only an application. No water - no food. This is just natural: the Earth is a planet of water.

And here's a fact: only natural soil - densely capillary, but permeated with channels and passages, and covered with a layer of litter from above - can accumulate the right amount of water. Every day she deposits underground dew in herself, in total - two doses of annual precipitation. More dew falls in masses of stone. Where do streams start? In forests and in the mountains. You climb a small, seemingly dry hill, and near the top there is a spring! Where?! And this is underground dew. It is this water that gives the roots the opportunity to feed and cooperate with symbionts.

Rice. 40

Rice. 41

Drive the plow, walk with a shovel - and there is no mulch, no channels, no underground dew. AND THERE IS NO WATER, no matter how much you water. What is the power here? There is nothing to live here. We rush to the other extreme: we cast, we fatten with mineral water. Fat shoots are raging! But they get sick an order of magnitude more: loose, pampered, immunity - zero.

The smartest thing is to imitate natural feeding.

Young seedlings and berry bushes are best fed and watered, covering the near-stem circles with a layer of humus, and on top also with foliage, straw, grass or living plants. If the soil is poor, for example, in the Non-Black Earth Region, then two or three buckets of organic matter should be added to the pit.

Mature trees are best watered and fed with mulch and pits.

The ideal mulch for the soil is the carpet of the mentioned shoot-bearing bent grass (Fig. 40). This grass forms a mulching carpet so soft and thick that even the loam remains moist and pliable.

And for the reward for the harvest - pits, stationary "feeding troughs" (Fig. 41). Along the perimeter of the crown - about six to eight holes a bayonet deep. The value is arbitrary, a short groove is also suitable. Throw there stumps of branches, rot, grass and kitchen waste, and in the years of a landslide harvest, carrion, and manure, droppings and feces. Cover the top with a lid like a shield made of boards. Also water here if the drought drags on. Water goes immediately to the desired depth, is not lost, does not create dirt. Yes, and you need a little of it: 2-3 buckets per pit.

In general, the tree itself does everything to eat plenty. No need to overfeed him with anything!

Part 2
Gardens of the North and Siberia

W Here are a few chapters from the book "Smart Garden: How to Outsmart the Climate", written in collaboration with Sayanogorsk experienced gardener V.K. Zhelezov. In the book, he talks about the most important features of horticultural technology in cold zones - Siberia and the Non-Black Earth Region. Northern horticulture is completely, often to the extreme, unlike the horticulture of the South and the Chernozem region.

Chapter 1
What is a good place for a garden

A garden can grow almost anywhere. But not everywhere!

Anastasievites often call and write to me - people who, at the call of Nature, create settlements in various sparsely populated places. And I see: problems, sometimes insoluble, in most cases they create themselves. Here are the lines from their letters: "... a bare blown steppe, no water, no electricity ..."; “I thought we’d plant trees and lie under them, but the gnat doesn’t let us stick our nose out of the sheds – as long as they were built…”; “dug the earth, and there is water ...”; "... a fire broke out due to uncut grass, and more than half of the plots with buildings burned down ...". From the names of settlements, and even in the northern latitudes, pressure jumps up: the Zabolotny farm, the village of Solontsy ... What kind of gardens are there! I say: come to us, to the Shushensky district, to Minusinsky, to Sayanogorsky - here you can live and grow gardens. Answer: No, it's far away. And the “blowing steppe, no water, no electricity” is not far away ... And they call me and hope that after a five-minute conversation they will be able to grow a garden! As if I could change the climate or make the northern slope southern.

This is how it is everywhere with us: mostly land is given over to settlements and dachas. On you, God, what is not good for me: bare steppes dried up by dry winds, depleted abandoned fields, rocky soils, heavy loams, sand or gravel, peat bogs, former swamps and salt licks, roadsides with poisonous lead exhausts, impassability ... And we are all happy grab: "our land" is in our genes! And the result - hundreds of letters to me: NOTHING GROWS. Although many years have been spent, money, nerves, work.

Even those who could plan the future place in advance, are guided primarily by the cost of the house, amenities, communications - whatever. They remember about the garden when the house is already being built. And here - "nothing grows." And at the neighbor, where the garden is protected from the wind, plum trees grow. And at a friend’s, on the southern slope, the apricots are ripening. And in the neighboring village there are a lot of their own apples, which are nowhere in the area ...

The resilience potential of fruit trees is much higher than we used to think. However, he is specific. I have always written that gardens with large-fruited varieties can be planted throughout Siberia. But I never wrote that they could grow in any places. That's the point: a garden can be grown in any area, but NOT ANYWHERE. Even in the south! And in Siberia and the North - not in any. But only in a favorable location with a mild climate. But the fact is: there are enough such places everywhere. And in Siberia too.

Every region has the warmest and softest areas. In an abnormally severe winter, in some areas of the Chita region it went off scale for -50 °C, in others it did not exceed -37 °C. Within one region, especially the foothills, there is a wide range of climate. I go to my garden along the Yenisei and always look at the thermometer of the car: in one village, under the rocks, -7 ºС, and after three kilometers, in the ravine -13 ºС! It may sound strange to some, but even on the same street the microclimate is different: height difference, slopes, protection from the wind, depth of groundwater. The last harsh winters - and here is an oil painting: your garden is almost frozen, and the neighbor across the street is almost none, and even apples are ripening. It is a little higher, better drainage - that's the result. Even in different corners of your site, the conditions for fruit trees are different. In front of the house - a slope, behind - a river, under a fence - calms from the wind. Plums bear fruit only in calm, apple trees grow better near the river.

If you are serious about gardening, start with the main thing: find the most favorable place of all possible. Otherwise, years and effort will be wasted!

Apple trees won't bloom on Mars!

I would say simply: all favorable places for gardens are around large bodies of water, either on the southern slopes and in “amphitheaters”, or in calm places protected by hills and rocks. Nikolai Ivanovich decided that it was necessary to understand this in more detail - to describe all such places. And not just to name them, but also to understand WHY the climate is softened there. Here is the data sent by the co-author.

1. Large water surfaces: lakes, large rivers, reservoirs. Water is the main climate buffer. It accumulates a huge store of heat. In summer, the reservoir cools the air, and before winter, on the contrary, it gives off heat for a long time. Around Lake Baikal on the climate map there is a zone of "marine climate". Around large lakes around the world - a zone of "protected gardening" from 3 to 30 km. Where are our most prosperous country estates? Mostly around rivers and reservoirs.

But the most successful - non-freezing reservoirs. For example, rivers below the hydroelectric power station. They humidify the air. And humid air is almost like a “greenhouse”. In summer, it reduces leaf evaporation - heat and drought are more easily tolerated, shoots ripen better, as a result, tissue preparation for winter is better. And in winter, air moisture greatly reduces the main cause of "freezing" - winter drying of branches. Including covers with frost - a kind of "fur coat". This adds a few degrees of tolerable frost. Humid air is especially important in windy conditions.

The influence of water is so noticeable that all large rivers (Volga, Don, Dnieper) have long been the main gardening on windward shores. Passing over the river, the air becomes humid, and here the gardens feel safer and better than on a leeward bank with dry air. The same can be safely said about the Yenisei. But do we have few rivers and lakes in Siberia?

2. Southern and southeastern slopes. The sun falls more perpendicularly - the soil warms up more. Spring - earlier, autumn - later, the total heat is much greater. Every degree of slope to the south is like moving 50-100 km to the south. Or go down from the mountains 100 m lower. Collective farm gardens are still alive on the southern slopes of Altai and in the highlands of the Caucasus.

The “amphitheaters” open to the south or southeast warm up even better. These are solar heat traps. In addition, they are often protected from the wind. In the North and Siberia, such "bowls" are populated by gardeners first of all. There are more opportunities here: the eastern and western slopes heat up differently. There are ravines with rocky slopes that warm up well - it is even warmer there.

In the dry south and in the hot steppes, gardens, on the contrary, are hidden on the western and northern slopes - it is wetter and cooler there. The southern slopes on Taman or, for example, near Volgograd are just “frying pans”.

3. Place on a slope. Even pre-war studies of one of the luminaries of our gardening, P.G. Shitt showed that on the slopes of hills and mountains with a steepness of 5-10 ºС, gardens generally grow better and live longer than on the plains. Even in Europe. Here is the data from "Plodovodstvo" in 1946: the slope is not only warm, but also good drainage and better ventilation. And most importantly - different soil moisture. Soil moisture flows from top to bottom. The closer to the top, the drier. The lower, the wetter the soil and the longer it does not dry out. At the foot of the water accumulates, there are ponds and swamps.

In the south, in the dry steppes, the gardens in the upper part of the slope have been suffering from drought and heat since June. Here the best place- the lower half of the hill and the foot. In damp northern zones, on the contrary, the upper half of the hill is better. In the middle zone, gardens grow well both on different slopes and on plains - everywhere, except for windy peaks and sunken lowlands.

4. Hills. Cold masses of air roll down from them to the lowlands. How important this is is shown by an example from the same Fruit Growing. Two villages in the Samara region were compared - in a lowland and on a neighboring hill, 77 meters higher. The absolute minimum of frost at the top is -36 ºС, and at the bottom -49 ºС. And the frost-free period in the lowlands is on average 30-40 days less (!) than in the upper village. And the frosts are all below. It is clear who goes to whom for fruit?

5. Protection from the winds. The wind is the main trouble of all gardens both in the steppe south and in Siberia. In the heat, a strong wind increases the evaporation of water from leaves and soil at times. A frosty wind dries up branches many times faster than just frost. Actually, in windy areas, trees do not “freeze out”, but dry out from the frosty wind.

In our region, the border is clear: there are gardens near the foothills, and if you go out into the steppe for at least ten kilometers, there is almost no chance. Well, except to plant windbreak forest belts (and try to grow them there quickly!) Or hide trees under the walls of houses. A high fence for southern peaches near Rostov is like snow for pears in Novosibirsk. Everything that sticks out above the fence is frozen, and everything below is in the fruits. And so three years out of four. In general, I found a calm place - consider moving three hundred to five hundred kilometers to the south!

We have a place that has collected all the above advantages: the village of Cheryomushki on the way to the Sayano-Shushenskaya hydroelectric power station. The microclimate there is such that cherries grow, and even walnuts do not freeze slightly every year (Fig. 42).

Rice. 42

But there are very few such places. Therefore, simultaneously with the garden, and even better - in advance, plant protective forest belts - windbreakers in 3-4 rows. More precisely, sow. Seedlings of Manchurian walnut, Manchurian apricot grow very quickly, in the lower tier - Ussuri plum, steppe cherry. But there should be no less conifers: pines and cedars. Only they cut off the wind in winter.

My personal experience from the island: pine trees planted in three rows a meter apart, competing for light, quickly rushed to the sun and without any care in ten years created an almost impenetrable hedge 7–8 m high with mushrooms and birds. It turned out to be an excellent windbreak strip that works in all seasons.

6. Proximity to the city. From the point of view of a heating engineer, the city is a huge stone fire that burns all winter. Houses are heated in any climate, even in Sochi. And every day, ALL the heat of the heating devices is radiated and flies into the air! Represented? Plus the heat of the sun accumulated during the day by the walls of houses. Plus the greenhouse effect from smog and carbon dioxide. And all this warm air mass with the prevailing wind creeps to the suburbs. A city with a population of 200,000 heats 8–10 km of the suburbs, a millionaire – up to 30–40 km. This means that it is warmest in the private sector of the city itself. Especially between the city and a large body of water. In Krasnodar, between the city and the Kuban reservoir, virgin persimmons and even kiwi with a frost resistance of -16-18 ºС are quietly ripening! And in the neighboring villages - do not even hope, only with shelter. The leeward suburbs are unlucky: here it is 4-7 ºС colder than in the city. For us gardeners, that's a lot!

7. Good soil drainage. Where water stagnates and stays close to the soil surface for a long time, the garden has almost no chance. Even in the south, in such flooded places, only pome fruits grow, and even then with difficulty. The stone ones just get wet. On such a "mochak e» Instead of subsoil, a kind of dense black silt is often formed - gley. It is poisonous to the roots: there is no air in it. But even without gley, there is too little oxygen in such soil.

In harsh areas, it is dangerous and just close standing ground water. In spring it is flooding, and in the second half of summer excess moisture delays the maturation of wood.

That is why the slopes of the foothills are so densely covered with thick forest. And even the wild Manchurian apricot grows on steep slopes. He is not afraid of drought, but stagnant water is fatal.

…These are only the main signs of favorable microzones. In theory, the more you collect on your site, the better. It's just hard to take them into account. Even to determine - you already have to be a specialist! One eye is not enough. What to do?

Many advise asking experienced gardeners. Ask. But know: experienced gardeners are a special people. Especially Siberians. No one will tell you that he lives in a particularly soft microzone. If you tell him, he will be offended for the rest of his life! Everyone is sure that he lives in the most ordinary, that is, terribly harsh climate. And that such a garden has grown is the result of many years of experience, inquisitive mind and hard work. Neighbors didn't grow up! I know from my own experience… It’s still unpleasant when I read: “Zhelezov’s entire success is in his microzone.”

But asking about the timing of planting and ripening of different crops is a matter. When do the first cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini ripen? Where before? There are also fruit crops that indicate a special microclimate. For example, Vladimirskaya cherry is tree-like. It is found almost everywhere, and yields crops, but stably bears fruit only in microzones. Well, and the obvious “paradise” can be seen from afar: mulberries, grapes are weaving, many different pears and cherries, and even a walnut sticks out, and not even very frozen.

... In the mountains there is another phenomenon that is invaluable for gardeners - hair dryers. Warm dry winds blowing from the passes along the river valleys. Hairdryer, which is used to dry hair - from the same root. They are formed due to the influx of air masses "from the mainland", in Siberia - mainly from the west. The mass rests against the ridge, crosses it and, as it were, is sucked down the valley. And the lower, the greater the pressure of the atmosphere. The air flow is more and more compacted, compressed - and heated. There are a lot of hair dryers in the Caucasus. But even more - in Altai. Altai is called "a warm island in the middle of a cold mainland." And also - the "Siberian Caucasus".

Look at the map of Altai. The Chulyshm River flows into Lake Teletskoye but n. Her valley "blows out" hair dryers for four months of the year! There are terraces on the shores of the lake, where the usual winter is not higher than -20 ºС. Even walnuts grow there! An industrial Soviet-era apple orchard is still alive on the Bele cordon (Fig. 43 and 44). And next to the lake, on the Biya, - the usual forty-degree winters. Not so many, but there are hair dryers along the Katun valley and many of its tributaries. We also have them in Khakassia - on the eastern slopes of the Kuznetsk Alatau, in the upper reaches of the Chulym. But they no longer reach the Yenisei.

Rice. 43

Rice. 44

Say: what are you talking about snow didn't mention? Snow is good, of course. This means that there is a lot of precipitation and moisture, as in Tomsk or Mezhdurechensk. Under the snow it is convenient to hide trees for the winter. But this is a double-edged sword. Stone fruits rot in the snow, especially apricots. And here, in a little snow zone, they are fine. On good rootstocks, they will find moisture everywhere. And there is no temptation to relax too much. You count on snow - what if it didn't fall in time? Sayanogorsk is an almost snowless place. Maybe this was our main trump card? If we had one and a half meters of snow, could we tame apricots and plums? And most importantly, would you like to?

Well, what about those who already have land, and the place is far from the most favorable? There are three exits. If gardening really means a lot to you, you will still change the place - you will find a better one. If not, just limit yourself to flowers, bird cherry and reliable semi-cultures. The third way is to try to improve the place as much as possible. Drain excess water, create protection from the wind. Few chances, maybe add. But whether it's worth your effort is up to you.

“The whole success of Zhelezov is in his microzone”

What a Siberian - a bath, then a European - death!

How many feathers, including mine, have been broken in disputes about the climate of the Minusinsk Basin, Sayanogorsk, and specifically my garden in Krasny Khutor! Why? Yes, because we look differently. My trans-Ural opponents know for sure: “The Minusinsk Basin is a particularly favorable region

Siberia". What this means in practice, none of them tries to clarify, although my gates are open to everyone. Sayanogorsk for them is almost Ukraine. Accordingly, the publications of my numerous guests there, on the other side of the Urals, are perceived with distrust. I also know very well: it is warmer here than in Tomsk or even in Krasnoyarsk. But something else is also important to me: here no one has grown real fruit trees . We, amateurs, have been able to do what the metropolitan science does not consider possible - we have created a whole area of ​​flourishing gardens with a variety of dessert fruits.

What kind of climate do we have? How "specially favorable" is it? My co-author made me conduct a whole investigation, even connected our weather stations. So I'll be as objective as I can.

He never denied, and even vice versa, he emphasized: the Sayanogorsk and Shushensky districts - a narrow strip along the ice-free Yenisei - a very fertile place. From my village to Shushenskoye stretch thousands of hectares of coastal forest-steppes protected by mountains. Here you can engage not only in summer cottages - industrial gardens, and feed the whole of Siberia. Our famous Subbotinsky Garden (Shushensky state variety testing site) is located in more severe climatic conditions, 18 km from the Yenisei. But during its heyday, the Baikovs grew excellent crops of Russian apples, Chinese plums and Siberian varieties pears It was they who made me believe in miracles and take five hectares of land for a garden.

Nevertheless, we are far from Ukraine! There we planted potatoes in March, and here in May. There, the critical winters are a little over thirty, and here - over forty. There is the Atlantic breath of the Gulf Stream, and here the center of Eurasia is close at hand - the climate is the most sharply continental.

Most of the myths about the "excessively mild" climate of the region are associated with the village of Cheryomushki and B.I. Bodnar. They will read about it and rejoice: this is what the Minusinsk Basin is like! Yes, Cheryomushki is an amazing place. On the southern coastal slope between the mountains, the highest along the Yenisei, closest to the hydroelectric power station. Until recently, frosts there did not exceed -30 ºС, and in ordinary winters - over -20-25 ºС. It regularly rains in summer and snows in winter. There is almost no strong winds. There, in the only place in Russia, apricots did not bear fruit for the first time in thirty years in the most anomalous year of 2011.

But we don't have places like this anymore.. 15 km below, in Maine, forty-degree frosts already occur, although the Yenisei is backed up by the dam of the Main hydroelectric power station and becomes twice as wide. My village Krasny Khutor is another 8 km lower, almost opposite Sayanogorsk. It's even colder here.

The giant reservoir of the Sayano-Shushenskaya HPP freezes only after the New Year. In the meantime, it is open, a small warm cyclone regularly forms above it. It crawls towards Sayanogorsk, it rains in summer and snows in winter. But to my already quarter-century annoyance, it almost always stops somewhere in the Main, not reaching my village.

And the western Atlantic cyclones do not let the mountains of Kuznetsk Alatau pass to us. All the moisture of the western winds falls on their western slopes, in the southeast of the Kemerovo region - more than 1000 mm of precipitation. The Minusinsk steppe gets their "dry residue" - in the region of 300 mm. In the summer it is wildly hot, it is impossible to walk barefoot. My trees are fried along with me: I do not water them for breeding purposes. And such - three years out of four. In October, and sometimes later - from November, a snowless winter comes with winds. The branches dry out so that it is noticeable without glasses. Rarely does more than 10–20 cm of snow fall in a year, and sometimes there is almost none. And I don’t do winter watering again. How the trees endure these wild conditions, I am amazed myself!

I see one answer: the natural root system of seedlings helps. And also - the humid air of the Yenisei. That is why my failed farm garden on the island, until it burned down, lived and fruited reliably. And then the surviving trees gave excellent yields. Thanks to the evaporation of branches in very coldy covered with a coat of frost, and this is a huge plus. It is this section of nature that they mean when they write that “Zhelezov’s garden is located on the peninsula and is protected from almost all sides. warm waters Yenisei". Well written, great place! Look at fig. 45. Before the fire, there were more than a thousand such apple trees on the island.

But my breeding garden is not even on the peninsula. Krasny Khutor is an ordinary village between the highway and the river, and on the shady, cold shore rivers, unlike Sayanogorsk and Maina. Two hundred meters to the Yenisei, across the highway - the northern slopes of high hills. They often run cold.

Rice. 45

Along the river - strong frosty winds. So in our favorable zone, I do not have the warmest place. Here is the entry dated December 14, 2010: “It is -28 ºС in Cheryomushki. In the center of Sayanogrsk -31 ºС, on the outskirts -35 ºС. In the mountains of Ai-Dai (the main summer cottage) -41 ºС. In my village -37 ºС. True, the snow is already 20 cm. For the first time in many years, it fell on time. ”

But the river air helps here too. Not so often, but there is frost on the branches. I think this allows my trees to withstand frosts 2-4 degrees lower than they would in dry air. This is probably why G.N. Baykova considers Krasny Khutor and Maina to be a common microzone where industrial pear and apple orchards are possible.

True, in last years our climate seems to be testing our resilience. Until 2000, the Sayanogorsk region did not know winters colder than -38-39 ºС. And now, in ten years, there are four critical winters, when -36-38 ºС lasts for a month and a half, and the minimum reaches -42 ºС in the city and -45 ºС in summer cottages.

Two winters in a row - 2010 and 2011 - are just like that, and even a cold summer between them. This year, after the second critical winter, even wild plants are having a hard time! Fruits are rare on Siberian apple trees. Recently, Leonid Chernobaev was picking the fruits of the Ussuri pear from the old trees of the abandoned Ochursky garden. The harvest is weak - it was landslide last year. Fruits only on the eastern, leeward side and on trees closest to the river.

And the other day, our researcher of sustainable assortment, a scientist from Abakan, Tursunpulot Duskabilov, called. He said terrible things. I was in Altai and Novosibirsk - I studied the condition of the gardens. And I discovered: the gardens are empty, there are few fruit trees, and this despite the abundance of scientific organizations. This confirmed my assumption: gardening “by the books” is not for Siberia.

Many say: the end of gardening. I say: on the contrary, only the beginning! After such "examinations" comes sobering and understanding. Clones and varieties remain, which are no longer afraid of any frost - an invaluable material for breeding work. One hundred percent agree with L.I. Taranenko, the oldest breeder in Ukraine: "a harsh winter is a breeder's dream."

In addition, there is evidence that these harsh winters are just a transitional period. In the next hundred or two hundred years, it is Siberia and Canada that will warm up and become the most favorable zones for life. And the point here is not in "global warming", but in the shift of "climatic scales". It turns out that the climate on the planet has always changed and changes significantly every 150–200 years. But not globally, but in equilibrium: if somewhere it gets better, then somewhere it gets worse. For those who are interested in the details, look on the Internet for lectures by our famous climatologist Vladimir Klimenko, the author of the most reliable model of Earth's climate change.

And now the main thing: why is everyone arguing with me about our climate? Yes, because I am busy with selective cloning - the upbringing and selection of clones that are especially stable in our conditions. Are they really more sustainable? Whether my selection works, or I invent it for myself - that is the question. About selection - its own part of the book, but now I will say that there is.

Michurin rightly wrote: “... The farther from the marked (original) area the places are, the gradually the quality of the varieties and the productivity of their plantations will decrease. Varieties of perennial fruit plants, of course, cannot be universal in terms of suitability in all localities. I don’t know if, and to what extent, increased frost resistance will be preserved in my clones that have fallen into other conditions and on a different rootstock. There is no certainty here, there is only hope, confirmed by letters. But there is a FACT: now my selected baby seedlings do not freeze in any long frosts in an unprotected nursery in Krasny Khutor. Seedlings of the same European varieties, brought from other places, and even more so taken from nurseries in Moscow or Orel, freeze here with almost one hundred percent probability.

A beautiful, abundantly fruitful orchard can be grown in almost any region of our country. VC. Zhelezov in practice proves the possibility of this in the north of Siberia, where, in general, conditions are very severe. But even especially winter-hardy varieties that are grown using special “northern” agricultural practices will feel much better if, even at the stage of acquiring a plot for a garden, make sure that this plot is in a place FAVORABLE for the garden - the best of those which can be selected.

VC. Zhelezov writes: “I would say simply: all favorable places for gardens are around large bodies of water, either on the southern slopes and in amphitheatres, or in calm places protected by hills and rocks.”

In addition to the obvious disadvantages in the form of air, water and soil pollution with toxic waste, it also has one plus.

From the point of view of a heating engineer, the city is a huge stone fire that burns all winter. Houses are heated in any climate, even in Sochi. And every day, ALL the heat of the heating devices is radiated and flies into the air! Represented? Plus the heat of the sun accumulated during the day by the walls of houses. Plus the greenhouse effect from smog and carbon dioxide. And all this warm air mass with the prevailing wind creeps to the suburbs of the City of 200,000 people warms 8-10 km of the suburbs, a millionaire - 30-40 km. This means that it is warmest in the private sector of the city itself. Especially between the city and a large body of water. The leeward suburbs are unlucky - here it is 4-7 ° colder than in the city. For us gardeners, this is a lot!

7. Good soil drainage.

Where water stagnates and stays close to the soil surface for a long time, the garden has almost no chance. Even in the south, in still flooded places, only pome fruits grow, stone fruits simply get wet. On such a “mochak”, instead of subsoil, a kind of black silt is often formed - gley. It is poisonous to the roots - there is no air in it. But even without gley, there is too little oxygen in such soil.

In harsh areas, it is dangerous and simply standing close to groundwater. In spring, this is flooding, and in the second half of summer, excess moisture delays the ripening of wood.

How to define all this?

All of the above are only the main features of favorable climatic microzones. In theory, the more you collect them on your site, the better. It's just hard to take them into account. Even to determine - you already have to be a specialist! One eye is not enough. What to do?

Many advise asking experienced gardeners. Ask. But know: experienced gardeners are a special people. No one will tell you that he lives in a particularly soft microzone. If you tell him, he will be offended for the rest of his life! Everyone is sure that he lives in the most ordinary, that is, terribly harsh climate. And that such a garden has grown is the result of many years of experience, inquisitive mind and hard work.

But asking about the timing of planting and ripening of different crops is a matter. When do the first cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini ripen? Where before? There are also fruit crops that indicate a special microclimate. For example, Vladimirskaya cherry is tree-like. It is found almost everywhere, but steadily bears fruit only in microzones.

Well, and the obvious “paradise” can be seen from afar: mulberries, grapes are weaving, many different pears and cherries, and even a walnut sticks out, and not even very frozen ...

If you liked this material, then we offer you a selection of the best materials on our site according to our readers. You can find a selection - TOP about existing eco-settlements, family homesteads, their history of creation and everything about eco-houses where it is most convenient for you

Pruning plants in Siberian gardens

From the book "Smart Garden. How to outsmart the climate. N. I. Kurdyumov, V. K. Zhelezov:

«…

Chapter 9

DO WE NEED CUTTING?

No tricks, you will not get a crop more than what is included in the tree program. But it doesn't cost anything to cripple him.

V. Zhelezov

1. WHAT NOT TO DO ON THE BORDER OF SURVIVAL

SOIL FOR WOOD - OR WOOD FOR SOIL?

Root pruning, which is often written about, came from the southern horticultural zones, where there are no problems with frost resistance. There, at all times and in all nurseries, taproots were pruned annually to form a fibrous root system in seedlings.

There is simply no other way out for breeders. Seedlings are a commodity, and in order to sell them, a transplant is necessary. In dry hot zones, the taproots of rootstock seedlings go to great depths, almost without forming lateral lobes. Therefore, some of the roots ahead of time are “transferred to a lump” - they develop lateral ones, cutting off a young, one-year-old rod. This is still better than one bare stump after digging. And everything would be fine. Only in areas of critical cold, the lateral roots of the tree do not save.

I also learned from school: the deeper the underground waters are, the more they are saturated with salts and minerals. Moreover, agronomists do not know their composition - you cannot take a sample from such a depth. But nature learned about it hundreds of millions of years ago. The most important organ - the central root - apparently provides the crown with a chemically optimal solution. I call it "NATURAL ANTIFREEZE". But not in the sense of "too saturated with salts." And in terms of the composition and quality needed for frost resistance. Nature does not make wasted efforts. Well, not for the sake of simple water, the roots of trees and perennial grasses are “drilled” into the subsoil at 8-15 m and deeper!

Let's walk across the bare steppe. Around - only grass. But the ravine, the fold of the terrain - trees immediately appear here. And without dowsing it is clear: the underground water is closer. And the frames in the hands confirm this. Let it be deep, but the trees reached out, received the necessary antifreeze solution and ... live right in the wind. Knowing the features of the root system, the proximity of groundwater can be determined from the species composition of the forest.

But here is another fold, almost the same, but the trees do not grow in it. Latitude, wind, frost, composition of the humus layer, solar radiation - everything is the same, but there are no trees! Why? I think because the composition of the deep subsoil and solution is different. Trees have nothing to make "antifreeze" from, and they do not survive here. Here is the current picture of the plant world. Here - only pines, here - a purely birch grove, and there is generally a stunted shrub.

Trees have been choosing their habitat ever since they appeared on the planet. Natural, sustainable trees don't grow anywhere! If they don't like living here, they will look and find another place. It was from such observations that my conviction was born: if wild trees have never grown in this place, then cultivated trees will not grow even more.

Before your eyes is an abandoned holiday village in the middle of the steppe, between Sayanogorsk and the Aluminum Plant - ruins with dead trees. Not far away, in the middle of the same steppe, there is a cottage settlement. After two critical winters, the gardens here are also dead.

So it turns out: in nature - a tree for the soil. What kind of soil, such a tree here. In our gardens - everything is exactly the opposite. We do not ask for a tree - we plant unfortunate emigrants where it is convenient for us. Poor soil - well, we'll feed it, droughts - well, we'll water it. We do not know about the deep subsoil and do not even want to think about it.

Of course, the roots themselves regulate the concentration of absorbed solutions. But after all regulate from what is! And there is - in fact, artificial soil for surface roots. And there is no basis - subsoil nutrition. From this point of view, our trees are prisoners drinking "prison gruel".

Trees, like all plants, have several different types of roots. Deeper go "water" - taproots. And the "feeders" creep under the surface, absorbing the products of the microbial decay of the mulch. They feed mainly with the help of symbionts - basal microbes and mycorrhizal fungi. Frost resistance is definitely enhanced by both those and other ROOTS and solutions. But the taproots have another, especially important role: supplying water from the non-freezing depths all winter, they save the tree from frost withering. In order not to dry out from frost, the crown of an adult tree evaporates 200-400 ml of water per day in winter! And where can the fibrous roots get water if they sleep, stiffened, in a frozen layer of soil ?!

Now, as I write this chapter, it is cold outside and the ground is black and snowless. But for my garden, I'm calm. There is a powerful grass cover of bentgrass, and the trees sit mainly on "rods" - they have never been transplanted.

You will say: but you also dig up your seedlings! Certainly. Digging up a powerful seedling, even with three shovels with a huge lump, the "rod" has to be cut. But this is really a rod - very powerful, with a large supply of nutrients, as long as possible. In a few years, he will grow himself an almost complete replacement. A large lump and pruning of the crown allow the tree to grow normally and quickly restore deep roots.

SHOULD WE CUT EVERYTHING OUT?

There are no right wounds in Siberia. There are two types: dangerous and deadly.

V. Zhelezov

"Let's cut off all the excess!" - I see headlines in several publications at once. For me, the very idea is wild. For a billion years, trees have survived in the harshest, most unbearable conditions. Nature has brought them to the utmost perfection - otherwise they would not have survived. But modern gardeners have taken it into their heads to “improve” trees with a saw and a pruner, often after reading only a couple of books! I want to convey to their minds: friends, Siberia and the North do not forgive stupid things. The result of thoughtless imitation of other people's methods is the death and disease of millions of trees throughout cold Russia.

HOW TO KILL A SIBERIAN TREE?

CUT FOR SCIENCE!

Pruning an adult tree - rejuvenation, lightening, thinning - is common in the warm and temperate zone. In the south, heavy pruning only causes increased growth of new shoots and unloaded branches. In Siberia, this is a serious test of survival. At a minimum, the tree's lifespan is reduced, and if the winter is severe, certain death. Believe me, for a quarter of a century I have seen enough of the mutilated and dead trees in other people's gardens!

Why is pruning so destructive? First, any heavy pruning is a shock to the tree. It requires colossal expenditures of substances and energy for restructuring, restoring a mutilated organism. It knocks down the natural program of development. All this does not allow to prepare for the winter and reduces frost resistance - one would like to say, “at times”. Secondly, the specifics of the climate: regular critical frosts do not allow wounds to heal. ANY wound in the bark becomes a problem, weakening the tree in one way or another. A penetrating infection, tinder fungi, the beginning of bark rot around the wound, a “cork” of dead wood inside the trunk - everything puts an end to high frost resistance. In the south it is invisible. We are deadly!

In Siberia, it is very easy to destroy a tree by cutting it "scientifically".

Open any book that describes how to prune an adult tree. And you apply the main principle - do not leave stumps, but cut thick branches "ON THE RING", that is, almost flush with the stem. I am sure that millions of trees died in Siberia because of such competent southern pruning. I've only seen hundreds of them!

For a long time my co-author could not understand my hatred for open wounds on the trunk. Theoretically, as well as from European practice, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the wound - if it is smeared and overgrown around the circumference with a roller of bark. Like, wood and bark freeze in the same way in frost, and bark is not a protector from freezing; A “cork” made of dead wood does not interfere with growth in any way; the main thing is that the bark around the wound does not begin to collapse. It's like that! But ours is different.

Quite mild past winters assured gardeners: there is nothing wrong with wounds. Trees with “perforated” bark of boles stood in almost every garden. But after the past critical winters, they are almost gone. Even apple trees!

In Krasny Khutor, the gardens suffered less - there are many trees from my seedlings, and I beg everyone not to touch them with a saw. And here is the picture - nowhere clearer. Neighbors who have been growing a beautiful garden of my clones for a long time suddenly come to me for seedlings. I was surprised: why seedlings? “And the garden is almost dead,” they say. I take my camera and go. And I see dozens of huge wounds on dying trees (photo 53). The hostess is very well-read, she reads all garden publications!

When I visit perishing gardens as a "pathologist", I always take a garden saw and a camera with me. Here is the famous super-frost-resistant apple tree Papirovka, a veteran of Siberian gardening. Pruning - a dozen "rings" on the trunk - done in a bookish way. But in a few years, the bark around the wounds turned black and died. In the south, she would most likely have remained alive. But our frosts and temperature fluctuations do not forgive the slightest weakening of tissues. And around the wound tissue is always weakened. A typical picture of our gardens is the spots and cracks of dead and diseased bark. I have never seen a dead tree with a completely healthy bole! Frost hits wherever a fungal infection has taken root or a crack has formed. The tree still lacks artificial wounds!

And now “patanatomy”: we cut the trunk right across the wounds (photo 54). Look: it is from each wound inside - a train of dark dead tissue. And spots of light rot are foci of infection. As you can see, the putty did not save. Opponents argue: it's not frost, but tinder fungus grows through the wound! And I say: horseradish radish is not sweeter. Trutovik and frost are our colleagues and companions! In practice, almost any wound is a future hollow.

Sinful, I confess: once I even used pruning ... in order to get rid of trees. Selection costs! There grew in the garden two beautiful, but superfluous Pepin saffron. I desperately need a place for new varieties, and my wife forbids cutting them, right to the point of hysteria! Then I silently made a dozen wounds on the ring. A year later, he received landslide harvests from both. And in the spring, after the mild winter of 2007, they did not wake up.

I can’t explain yet, but I can only state: having received ring wounds, our trees do not die gradually, as in the European zone, but suddenly. Apparently, that's why no one connects their death with the "classic" pruning.

The exceptions are, perhaps, only still young, very strong apple and pear trees that have not reached their full yield, with strong growth and still large fruits. Small wounds with a ruble, well smeared, overgrow them completely. But if the tree has already loaded, grown old, and the growth comes to naught - the wounds will not heal, and the frost will do its job.

What are the Siberians to do?

GET OUT OF THE HABIT CUT THE BRANCHES WHOLE

Only completely dead branches have to be removed "on the ring" involuntarily. But even those who are frozen and frozen in appearance, I always first shorten “by probable height”: what if some kidneys wake up? And the main rule is to start and finish pruning in early childhood. About all this further.

ARE THE SKELETON BRANCHES "EXTRA"?

On most trees, next to the vertical apical leader, almost the same vertical branch grows - a competitor. He has a very sharp angle of attachment to the trunk - a big risk. Under the load of the crop, snow, under the pressure of the wind, such a branch can fall off entirely, breaking the tree almost in half.

Many books teach how to bend branches with quickdraws. Then, they say, they will “hold on tighter” to the trunk. But these are young, one-year-old branches that bend easily. People, on the other hand, begin to bend back adult branches, even competitors - and get what you see in photo 55. Let's carefully examine the fault. Look: half the area of ​​the apparent accretion is actually just a cortical fit! Branches growing at an acute angle thickened, tightly clenched, but not fused.

It was necessary to bend such a branch in the first year, in extreme cases - in the second year of her life. And now - a monkey's work: just break it off. Therefore, books prescribe such branches to be deleted. It turns out - the branch has not yet broken, but it must be urgently destroyed! Yes, even leaving a huge wound on the trunk. Strange advice, honestly.

What to do? Cutting is a big wound, bending is useless. I, as already mentioned, have a better way: I regraft the competitor in time (photo 52). So it lags far behind in growth and goes into the category of smaller, safer branches. At the same time, I will test an extra variety, and even increase the overall yield due to cross-pollination.

For beginners, the advice is even simpler: just shorten the branch by half, and a year later - again. It will weaken and never become a competitor. There is no more risk of breaking the tree.

The books also take great care to ensure that each twig and leaf is illuminated by the direct rays of the sun - as the great Timiryazev bequeathed. And for this, it is advised to “thin out” - to remove almost half of the branches of the crown! All branches, except for three or four, prescribed for each tier, turn out to be “superfluous”. It turns out that a stupid tree, having survived all earthly cataclysms, still does not know how best to use sunlight! And gardeners, inflicting dozens of wounds on him, often incompatible with life, “help” him in this!

But imagine what it means to saw off at least a quarter of large branches. The crown is balanced, everything is connected to the corresponding roots, and suddenly - “the head is in the nightstand”! It's a shock. A tree in a panic throws out a lot of substitute shoots, rebuilds its entire structure, and spends a lot of energy on restoration. Plus a downed development program and the chaos of thin "artificial" tops. Plus a lot of wounds on the trunk, which will not heal for many years, but most often cause bark rot. Do you think all this will improve hardening and increase frost resistance?

I saw hundreds of trees frozen after such a "bookish" clarification. Therefore, I generally do not “lighten” trees older than three years. And I beg you, don't do it! We have more sun than in Sochi - there is enough for all branches. Super-large fruits - entertainment is not for frosty zones! Tree growth is not strong. Loaded with the first harvests, the trees themselves fall apart to the sides, open to the light. Our frosts already “thin out” them more than necessary! Well, where else to climb with a saw?!

"TOO LONG" BRANCHES?

Usually summer residents grab a pruner when a strong tree begins to reach up too quickly. They grab it - and simply shorten the strong vertical growth “knee-deep”, by two-thirds, or even almost to the base. And for half a summer they forget! And then they discover: instead of one top there were four, and instead of four - fifteen, and just as strong! The tree did not become lower, but it became like a bath broom. Because short pruning of strong branches only enhances growth and multiplies these branches. If you cut a strong last year's shoot, three or four of the same shoots will grow from pruning. If you cut a thick branch, strong substitute shoots will climb from sleeping buds under the cut.

The way out is very simple: form bush crowns from childhood - you don’t have to shorten anything.

If a tree grows in the shade of a house or taller fellows, then it tends to break out upwards, towards the sun, for which it lengthens the internodes and shoots. And the unlucky gardener, remembering the book's instructions, shortens them, which drives the tree back into the shade. And in the shade, fruit buds do not form. And the tree starts the race up again - already with a whole broom of shoots. Conclusion: never plant trees in the shade - don't create this problem.

But I just have to shorten the branches a lot, cutting some trees almost “under the box”. Every year at the beginning of winter I cut off several thousand young shoots for cuttings - for vaccinations AND mailing. Especially a lot - plums and apricots. Such pruning cannot but harm, although there are no large wounds on the trunk. Such is the fate of mother trees. All I can do for them is try to cover up the cuts. And I watch.

After ordinary winters, nothing happens, even with unpainted branches. In a harsh winter, if the ends are smeared, only the upper pair of buds freezes. And in apple and pear trees, even the topmost bud remains alive. But apricots do not like shortening branches. They are extremely sensitive to any pruning, even shortening. In some cases, the branches dry out entirely, even if the butt was smeared.

Here any wound, even in small steps, but brings the end of the trees closer. Competent pruning "for probable growth" saves them. First, I cut off 4/5, it would seem, of a dead branch - in the hope that sleeping buds will wake up. We woke up - the branch is quickly restored. And if not, there is nothing to do, I cut it “into a ring” With a minimal wound (Fig. 12), and carefully paint over the cut with oil paint so that there is no rot and hollows.

AND THE GROUNDS ARE NOT NEEDED?

Why do we need tops - long thin shoots stretching upward from bent or aged branches? “The spinning tops practically do not bear fruit,” European textbooks answer, “but only take strength, material and nutrition from useful fruit branches.” In other words, tops are superfluous organs. What, again the tree stupidly grows something unnecessary?

The point here again is the difference between the south and Siberia. Southern trees grow excessively, there is no frost - any pruning is safe. They are cut. And in order to keep flat crowns such as palmettes that are easy to work with, you need to cut hard and annually. The jungle of superfluous tops and deputies is an inevitable consequence of such pruning. In theory, everything superfluous could be removed by plucking it in the bud, in May and June. But where to get so many skilled hands, time and skill?! And tops grow all summer, interfering with fruit branches. Look at the southern palmette at the end of summer (photo 56): almost all this bush of greenery, except for short fruit twigs, will be cut out!

For southerners, this is an ordinary formative pruning, but for me, a Siberian, it is a senseless execution. Maybe my eyes are deceiving me, but in Siberia tops are a salvation and a blessing for a tree. Because they don't just appear. There is always a reason!

Here the branch was bent under the load of the crop, but it did not straighten up. And the next spring tops rushed up. A year later, they bloomed wildly and fruited. And two years later, they almost caught up with the mother branch in thickness - they redirected the food to themselves. It is clear: tops are substitutes, successors of the life of the branch-mother, now deprived of food. This is just another stage of development, continuation of the life of the branch. Like seedlings - a continuation of the tree. The spinning top appears to replace the old or diseased branch, as nature intended. You can help him. First, slightly bend the 1-2-year-old top outwards - towards the light, and after a year or two cut off the old branch to the top, as in photo 44.

Here is another tree. The trunk was covered with frost cracks - terrible wounds, and swam with healing resin - gum. But I see: a powerful top appears below the dead crust and begins to grow rapidly. Yes, this is the future crown! I keep track. The frostbitten crown gives a few more harvests and dies, but the spinning top has already turned into a new healthy tree. And is he redundant?

Finally, tops are an excellent material for regrafting a tree. Grafting on the ends of branches is a mistake, but on tops it is reasonable. Once the top has got out, it will definitely begin to lead - it will become a new, strong part of the branch.

In our climate, where many trees are forcedly “weeping” and “ankle-legged” from frost holes, spinning tops are a common and massive phenomenon. And to fight tops means to deprive the trees of their only hope of survival. An exception is spinning tops on large sections of strong branches. If there are too many of them, you can delete them. But not all, but only half, and on time: in the embryonic stage, in May-June, when they, grassy, ​​only appeared. Then the tree can quickly rebuild.

AND SCENTS - NOT SUPERB!

Oh, how our brother-gardener does not like shoots - basal offspring! And I love. And I do not consider them, like others, "weeds." You graft, it happens, on the offspring of a wild apple tree a southern variety, and already in the third year you get large fruits.

The offspring have one feature. They, “the root analogs of branches”, are mature in stages, adults. Hence the precocity and frost resistance. Some offspring grow so close to the trunk that they are one with it. This is an ideal material for gradual complete regrafting of an old tree (photo 50). Every year, one or two old females can be removed from the "pensioner", and gradually it will be replaced by trees from offspring.

HERE IS A HIGH SHTAMB - THIS IS EXTRA!

“Hello, dear Valery Konstantinovich!

Please help us with seedlings. Our garden is over thirty. We had a lot of apples and berries. Over time, the trees have grown old. Planted new seedlings. Apple trees began to bear fruit in the 4-5th year. But plums and pears died after two or three years, although all the seedlings were purchased from our institute by Lisavenko. Landings were made, as before - in a bookish way. The past winters have destroyed all the remaining apple trees. Everything above a meter from the ground froze on the apple trees. Only three or four lower side branches near the ground remained alive. And this is for apple trees of local varieties: A gift from a gardener, Souvenir of Altai, Ural bulk, Cherished ... "

Friends! I propose to agree once and for all: pruning is a forced method, in fact, a barbaric one in relation to tree friends who suffer like us. And if we do it, then only to save the tree from death. Since we brought the "emigrant" to a harsh region, his natural program needs to be clarified. We have to help him in a strictly defined way. I do this in the first two years - so as not to interfere in his life later.

The main help in a frosty-windy climate is to make the tree grow "bush".

All classic books teach how to form tall stems. To do this, the lower branches on the stem are cut off. In the south with weak winds - okay, let it be. In Siberia and the North, the opposite is true. Only seedling trees of local frost-resistant varieties and species can confidently grow here on a high stem. The rest are at great risk! If we had the magical ability to see everything, we would see mutilated trees in millions of gardens. Believe the person who saw hundreds of them both in Sayanogorsk and in Moscow, although he did not specifically look for them.

Take a closer look at photo 57. Both varieties are grafted onto a common stock. In a hurricane wind, the high-stem tree formed by the secateurs collapsed, while the low-stem tree withstood the load. And we have almost half of windy days. Add here the fragility of the stems due to the inevitable internal freezing. And insufficiently strong fusion with the stock, which is also not uncommon. Over the years, I have received hundreds of woeful reports of high-stem trees broken by the wind, grown out of ignorance in windy places. Fragile, frozen wood of skeletal branches is also a common phenomenon. So the trees do not withstand early snow, large crops, wind load.

The way out is to form a bushy, low crown. In addition to wind resistance, it has another important advantage: the bases of the lower branches hibernate under the snow. In any critical frost, living growth and dormant buds remain here - the varietal part of the tree is quickly restored. Such "bushes" will never die completely. Believe me, if grafted strictly according to our book, stone fruits themselves turn into "bushes" in the very first summer (photo 41). It is practically not necessary to climb with a pruner to such a tree - unless the central leader is shortened.

There is another book argument: they say that there, at a height of two meters, it is almost 10 ° C warmer than above the snow. I do not argue, somewhere and indeed so. But you still do not believe, but first check. For me, as you already know, there is no difference. But even if it is colder below, “bush” trees are suitable here: on a rootstock-seedling, they can be quite high.

And in the most frosty zones with deep snow cover - in Novosibirsk, Tomsk - no high stem will save you from frost. Here you need to form flattened crowns - hide at least the lower half of the branches under the snow (photo 58). The best option, quite affordable even for beginners. It is much more difficult, although more reliable, to form classic slats - they are completely hidden under the snow (photo 59). But I have never done this, and the photograph is from the garden of E. Panteleev (Kemerovo region).

LEAVES ARE NOT EXTRA!

Watching gardeners, you discover: it turns out that there are “extra” leaves! They are recommended to be sniffed during the autumn transplant. But think about it: after all, they are still green and hold tightly to the branches. So it's time for them to leave!

Each leaf needs to fulfill its own personal program - to feed its own axillary bud at the base of the petiole, to bring it to full maturity. This takes time, and only the tree itself is able to link time, temperature and number of sunny days to complete this task. The merchant has a different task: so that the seedling does not wither, does not stand with withered leaves scaring off buyers. There are almost no roots, and the leaves begin to suck moisture from the bark and wood. It seems logical: cut off the LEAVES - the twigs do not dry longer. But after all, the buds, without leaves, remained immature, and they have to hibernate! But the solution is simple: dig up a seedling with a lump and cut it shorter.

Transplant in early autumn. The remaining leaves live, the buds under them ripen, at the same time the bush crown is already laid. Leaves and roots help - they make it possible to cling to the soil. In the spring, the seedling is confidently accepted.

How important the late leaf is, say the plants themselves. Even in sunny Khakassia, after a year or two, the trees go into winter with green leaves (photo 40). And the "columns" always hibernate in frozen green leaves. And here's the fact: surprisingly, everything is alive in the spring! My observation: after that, the winter happens to be calm, without extremes. This means that the trees use every opportunity to extend the work of the leaves. While alive, the leaf, even in the cold, manages to give something to the kidneys.

And we read wild advice: transplant - tear off! And tear off, or rather, rip off. The result - how many leaves there were, now there are so many fresh wounds close to immature buds. So the myth was born: "you can not transplant in the fall." Of course, it is impossible - in this way. Of course, you can, if early, sparingly, with a large clod of earth, with pruning and with green leaves.

Let me remind you: if seedlings are bought with good roots and in a trench, it is permissible to cut the leaves with scissors, leaving the petioles intact. But we have already talked about the pros and cons of the dig.

DO WE NEED TO PICK THE TOP

Pinching the tops of summer shoots is one of the well-known and authoritative agricultural practices for emigrant trees that do not fit into the short summer of the North or Siberia. It is understood: pinched off - stopped growing - the shoots soon ripen. My opinion: a double-edged sword. I don't do it myself and don't recommend it to others.

For the second time in ten years, October is abnormally warm here - up to +26°C! And it's like that almost all over Siberia. A pinch - the same autumn pruning. For those who pinched in September, the buds are now swelling, losing winter hardiness. I think that in a typical autumn, the trees know better than us how to prepare for winter - just don't interfere. And if they continue to grow, it's for something. But intervention in the natural process is always a risk.

GUM - GUM FOR WOOD

Many trees have unique properties of self-healing and survival in the harshest conditions. Well, who will take care of the beautiful taiga cedars, pines, larches - all by yourself! Heal wounds with their resin. And they not only treat themselves, but also us. There is a whole industry for the collection of medicinal resin - resin. Or rather, it existed. I receive desperate letters from the southern regions - help, those sap has come! And we have it now - the same rarity.

Everybody respects life. But its counterpart in stone fruits - gum, or wood glue - for some reason is hated. Seeing that the tree has healed the wound and it has swum, that is, it has healed with gum, for some reason we are obliged to take a sharp knife and cut out the life-giving, non-freezing resin along with healthy tissue! And then the wound, already made with your own hands, is disinfected and covered up.

Another advice from the south! Here is the story of an experienced gardener - my co-author. “Gum not removed in time is the misfortune of our apricots and cherries. It happens that after a drought there are heavy rains - the trunk swells, the bark cracks. And then the crack swam with gum, and by autumn it had turned to stone. For a couple of years, the gum gradually crumbled, clogged with dirt, but did not allow the bark to close - and here is a gaping crack, and under the old gum there is rotten wood, tinder fungi and bark beetles. And vice versa: in time, in May, you cut out fresh resin, draw three or four furrows along the wound from top to bottom, cover it with clay, bandage it - by autumn everything is almost smooth, closed.

Agree. With such a force of growth, as in stone fruits in the south, yes, it will close. During a warm winter - yes, it will grow. We have every extra wound on the trunk - a game of Russian roulette with frost. I never furrow the bark, I do not remove the gum. And I do not advise you.

2. WHAT TO DO IN SIBERIA

Utility exists whether one agrees with it or not.

EDUCATE A CHILD FROM BIRTH!

The smartest principle in working with trees is "the sooner the better". The sooner you go to the dentist, the less toothache. Otherwise: educate the child while it fits across the bench.

Given: a one-year-old pear sapling, cut almost in half. Pruning is forced: the tree is transplanted to a new place. As a result, all two dozen kidneys woke up, including the lowest ones. I have a choice: I can form a standard tree, as is customary in the south, or I can form a bush tree. There are no strong winds in this area, the city softens winters, and there is not enough space. I choose the standard option. I carefully break off the newborn “extra” shoots with my hands, leaving the top four, well developed and looking in different directions.

Three years have passed - and before us is a fruit-bearing pear. All the tiny wounds have completely healed.

Imagine that the same pear is planted in a windy, frosty area. Here the approach is different: it is good to shorten the seedling, and in the summer do not interfere and do not touch anything. The tree should be able to hide the low trunk and lower branches under the snow. Next spring, the strong vertical leader should be halved again. Maybe in a year - for the third time. Everything! This completes the pruning and shaping of the tree. The crown turned out to be bushy - low and stable. The bases of branches can survive a critical winter under snow (Photo 60).

The first, and a year later the second pruning of a seedling is the main thing in the life of a tree, and ideally they are generally the only ones. They combine the necessary shortening of the seedling and the formation of the future crown. And most importantly - the first end wounds will quickly heal without a trace.

The smaller and drier the roots, and the longer the seedling, the larger part of the crown, respectively, needs to be removed. In spring - as a rule, 30-50% of the length of all branches, including the central one. In autumn - no less, and often more than half the length: late autumn seedlings take root even more difficult. If the seedling has developed lateral branches, also shorten the central leader by at least half: immediately lay the bush crown.

In snowy areas, an uncircumcised seedling is in for another misfortune: in the spring, a long thin whip, completely caught under the snow, can be broken. This happens on the lee sides of fences and houses, where snowdrifts are swept. Daytime wet snow freezes to the seedling at night, and in the morning all this mass continues to settle. Our only snowy winter showed: this is not a joke. Out of a hundred of my seedlings, twisted and grown under a fence, the snow broke and fell eighty! I don’t do school anymore under the fences. I cut off all seedlings for transplanting. If you grow trees locally, be sure to tie them to firmly driven stakes for the first year or two. And if you have a school - before spring, remove excess snow from here.

Many authors write: short pruning of seedlings during planting and in the first years, they say, only leads to the fact that the beginning of their flowering is postponed for two or three years. In fact, it depends on what seedlings, in what climate and what kind of pruning.

We take the situation of the authors of the advice: the south, black soil and high-quality seedlings, not dwarfs, grown in containers. Planted, watered - in the first year the growth was one and a half meters, in the second - the same amount. An illiterate owner approached, out of anger shortened all the whips almost to stumps. And from each hemp - three of the same whips! The owner again - to the stumps. Khlystov even more - already a whole "broom". And he - again ... So he cuts off all the wood, which in a year or two could bloom. Here it is unambiguous: “pruning in the early years pushes back flowering”!

Therefore, gardeners in Europe have long switched to dwarf rootstocks and super-fast-growing varieties. And young trees do not cut - they bend branches. And already in the second year, the first fruits are harvested, and in the third year they pay for planting the garden.

And here is the reverse option - ours. The seedling is strong, but with chopped off roots. Before landing, it is shortened by at least half - otherwise it simply may not take root. In the second spring, only the central shoot-leader is cut, in the third - too. The side branches don't move at all! Quietly ripen, mature and bloom quickly.

An uncircumcised seedling might have bloomed a year earlier - if it had lived to bloom. But this is very unlikely. In place of sellers who advise not to cut, I would say: “Do not cut! If suddenly, by chance, it still survives, it will bloom a whole year earlier!

OVERLOAD - LOSS OF FROST RESISTANCE

Overloading your trees - it's your greed multiplied by laziness.

N. Kurdyumov

Look at photo 61. For an old country garden, this is a common thing. And my co-author assures that this is a wild, unthinkable and dangerous overload. Even in the Kuban, after such overloads, the trees are terribly weakened, and they can be saved only by cardinal unloading. Having examined our gardens, Nikolai Ivanovich insists that Siberians should also try this technique.

This is where our opinions differ. I am against any interference with the nature of the tree. Seen enough of the results of stupid cuts, especially in recent years! Despite the persuasiveness of the arguments, I am still convinced that there is no useful pruning in Siberia - only forced. In any case, for mature trees. I know summer residents well and I am very afraid: in inept hands there will be more harm than good.

But Nikolai Ivanovich is an experienced practical gardener. According to him, he repeatedly saved old and dying trees precisely with the help of strong unloading. I've never done this, so I can't argue. I have already said everything about shortening the branches: I myself regularly cut the growth into cuttings, and I don’t see much harm to the tree. The exception is apricots: even shortening sometimes causes the death of almost the entire branch. If it were not for the need for cuttings, I would not touch them at all.

In general, how much is for - so much is against. In the end, we decided to leave this method to your discretion. Confident in your knowledge and skills - try, starting with the least valuable tree. In a couple of years you will see the result - call, I will be grateful for the story. If you don't know how, don't take it. Let your tree grow on its own. Trust me, it will last longer!

To my great regret, I did not live in Siberia. But my considerable experience as a gardener says: the tree has an optimal condition. And while it is optimal, the tree combines a good harvest and extreme resistance to any stress. It is interesting that V.S. Borodich voiced this in almost the same words.

I see one direct indicator of the state of the tree - GROWTH. Otherwise - the leaf surface of photosynthesis. As long as there is enough of it, the tree produces everything it can to survive.

Siberian trees age quickly. The lower and middle branches, bending from the fruits, age especially quickly. And the lower they bend, the more they are overloaded. An overloaded tree stops giving normal growth, and this overloads even more. But after all, it is the growth leaves that are the producers of photosynthesis products. Fruits - on the contrary, consumers. Without growth, the aged crown lacks nutrition for hardening, and moisture for frost resistance. Frost resistance drops. New frost holes appear, and the growth is even less... A vicious circle.

Roughly: normal growth - the maximum possible frost resistance. This applies to the entire tree as well as individual branches. What does normal mean? Well, the same as it was during the optimal state of the tree: normal whole bark and normal weighty fruits.

There is another reason for poor growth: damage to the bark and outer layer of wood. And in Siberia it is the first. Here, summer residents with a saw and fungal rot like bark cancer are actively helped by critical frosts. And the only way to build up and restore the bark is the same YOUNG growth. And again: the less healthy bark, the more fruits - the tree gives all the resources to the seeds. And the more fruits, the less growth. And the less growth, the worse the bark is restored, the weaker the frost resistance and the more fruits ... The same vicious circle leading to death. And a tree, aimed at procreation at any cost, cannot break it in order to prolong its life.

But the gardener can do it. The logic is simple: fewer fruit twigs - larger fruits and more growth. And young substitute shoots growing from an unloaded or shortened branch naturally prolong its life. On the other hand, shortening branches does not produce criminal wounds. I take the liberty and advise: try this method. At any rate, try this for apple trees and hardy pears that tend to get overwhelmed. Choose the most doomed or low-value apple tree. In the spring, unload the aged lower and middle branches in order to simultaneously normalize the crop - reduce the number of ovaries.

Downloading a thread is easy. First, shorten the ends down to the first raised branches. Then strongly, by two-thirds, shorten the small branches that are already hanging down and have ceased to grow, in favor of younger branches that grow upwards and give growth. That is, make the branch less frequent and more elevated. The result - growths appeared at the ends of the branch, and the fruits became tastier and larger. Approximately such a branch was at the age of 4-5 years.

I understand perfectly well: no one will do this in an adult garden. And do not - especially if the hand with the pruner united against the head! But if you are looking for a way to pump out your favorite old tree that is dying without growth, this is just what you need. The only thing that can save him is new growth. I pumped out hundreds of these trees. Will you suddenly succeed?

REPLICATIONS ABOUT DIFFERENT TYPES OF CUTTING

Better an untouched and dense living tree than a clarified and pruned dead tree!

Pruning to form a crown. I repeat: in Siberia and the North, it needs to be done only for the first two or three years. We plant a shortened seedling - it wakes up a lot of buds. Young shoots came out - we leave three or four side shoots, evenly spaced, and the top. Everything else is plucked or carefully removed during the summer. Two more springs: shorten all side branches and the top by a third. Everything! From the fourth year of life in a new place, shaping pruning stops forever.

Pruning to lighten the crown. Here the branches are not shortened. A shortened branch quickly thickens the vacant space with new shoots. To lighten means to cut out the “extra” branches “on the ring”. But how it ends, I have already written.

For many years, watching the trees, I tried to understand: why cut off thick skeletal branches? So I did not understand! Well, we removed every third branch, well, we sent the sun inside the crown. Maybe the harvest has become larger? .. But no. Maybe frost resistance has increased? Vice versa! The whole effect - tops climbed in a crowd.

Yes, of course, in the shade of the crown, forced to thicken from frost holes and tops, fruit buds do not form, and fruiting is gradually transferred to the periphery. So what? This is a natural process. Harvest, by the way, from this almost does not decrease. Why, because of this, endlessly cripple a tree, shortening its life? By removing some of the branches, you will not return the fruiting inside the crown - you will only make terrible wounds! Wherever I go - crippled trees from "well-read" owners. Therefore, I advise you to forget this technique once and for all.

Of course, in theory, you can follow the crown and leave only the necessary branches, plucking and pinching everything superfluous back in May, as soon as it pecks. But rare units of the most fanatical gardeners do this, and even then only where the hand reaches. And I recommend a simple rule for summer residents: if you don’t form a tree right away, let it grow as it wants. Even if you live in Sochi, competent, useful training is a job for a professional. If you don’t know the subtleties, if you don’t understand a tree, don’t climb with a pruner and a saw: definitely, your “services” will only do harm!

Sanitary pruning is a forced measure. After abnormal winters, dry branches appear, and there is nothing to do - you need to cut them. I do this as soon as it becomes clear that the branch is dead. Or, for example, if the branches rub against each other, then one of them needs to be shortened. It is also necessary to get rid of branches that are heavily affected by diseases. It is also necessary to shorten broken branches to healthy wood. I have one rule here: if you can shorten a branch and prolong its life, do not cut it "into a ring."

And if you really had to cut it into a ring - carefully smooth it with a knife and cover up the wound, and renew the putty every 5-6 weeks until winter.

Pruning a tree for rejuvenation is the strongest and most radical. The tree is very old. Fruit formations, due to the terrible abundance, have already run out of steam and almost stopped working. Young growths, even on the upper branches, almost do not appear. If there is a harvest, then it is the darkness of crushed sour fruits. No young growth - no sugars.

Pity is already inappropriate here - the tree still doesn’t feed you anymore, but only grows older. Take a saw and mercilessly shorten all skeletal branches - remove three-quarters. Completely dry and old remove completely. From the cut branches, new shoots will climb, the leaf apparatus will recover. Youth will return to the tree for several years, and taste and attractiveness will return to the fruits. But this is not for long. Unfortunately, the new branches of an old tree will grow old much faster - in a few years. Age, you know.

Pruning for future regrafting. Suppose you are not satisfied with the fruits of an adult tree of a local frost-resistant variety. In the spring, shorten two or three skeletal branches by half or more. Dozens of vertical shoots will climb from the cuts. Extra - weak - pluck until woody. The following spring, these shoots are an ideal rootstock for copulating grafting. Instilled - you can shorten three more branches, prepare new rootstocks. As a result of such pruning, offspring from the roots may also appear. Also a great option for grafting new varieties.

Molding - the creation of artificial forms of the crown. I clarify: this is not about correcting individual shortcomings of the natural crown. We are talking about geometrically correct forms: palmettes, spindles, cordons, etc. Entire books are devoted to this. But why sell these books in Siberia and the North?! In the south, it is horticultural art. In our country, where trees live on the verge of death, such molding is barbaric and nonsense. The more we violate the natural program of the tree, the more strength it spends on resistance and the less chance it has to survive!

Perhaps the only thing that is applicable to us from molding techniques is the early plucking of unnecessary shoots in the bud. But I have yet to meet a gardener who has the patience for this.

Theoretically, it would be possible to apply also the bending of the branches. Moreover, it has been noticed: inclined fruit branches are more frost-resistant than strong vertical ones. But in Siberia, this technique is simply not needed! we don't have "overgrowths". Our trees grow on a seedling rootstock in the same way as in Voronezh - on dwarfs. Our branches are already too bent from the crops. Start bending - they will completely spread out and weaken. For us, bends are just unnecessary senseless labor and violence against trees.

Total. Perhaps you have not been able to delve into the problems and methods of cropping, and you don’t want to delve into it. And it is not necessary. Here is the best advice for inexperienced beginners. They bought a seedling, planted it correctly, watered it, immediately cut it off heavily, covered up the wounds - EVERYTHING! Don't approach a tree with a pruner again until you see something clearly wrong.

WHEN TO TAKE SHEARS

- When should I start cutting trees?

- When you learn...

Let us briefly analyze the different terms of pruning from the Siberian point of view.

Autumn pruning is dangerous and even fatal for us. Unhealed wounds go into the winter. Frost kills the bark and cambium around the cuts, and various rot develops here in the spring. If we already have bark cancer, then it begins with such wounds.

Winter pruning is the same.

Summer pruning is dangerous in its own way. It violates the tree development program at the very auspicious time. Stimulates the premature awakening of unripe and dormant kidneys. Green shoots pushed out after pruning do not have time to go through the entire development cycle and die in winter. The tree is pointlessly mangled.

Spring pruning is the only one allowed in the harsh zone. The wounds have time to be limited to a cow roller, the wood of the cuts to dry out and become a dead “cork”, the tree has time to rebuild and prepare for winter. The optimal time is shortly before the start of sap flow, when the temperature is still minus at night, and already positive during the day. For Southern Siberia - the end of March or the beginning of April.

However, after a frosty winter, it is better to postpone the pruning period. By doing a regular pruning in March or April, a beginner can cut out live branches and leave frozen ones for the tree. And to be surprised to find it only in May. This is the case when it is better to wait with pruning until the buds open.

MADE A WOUND - BE ABLE TO HEAL!

It remains to be said about the putty of wounds. Alas, it will not replace the living bark and will not protect against frost. But in Siberia, it is imperative to cover up wounds, even at the ends of shortened branches: any moisture absorbed by a dry tree and frozen opens the gate to all sorts of misfortunes.

The main thing: the putty must be updated. Repeat it at least once in a month! Especially important - before winter.

Usually covered with garden pitch or thick oil paint. The ends of the grafted cuttings are best covered with soft pitches such as "Universal Bugorkov". To the touch - like thick glue, well smeared even in the rain.

Ordinary garden pitch is short-lived, shrinks or falls off from frost, and evaporates from the sun in summer. I heard that the old Soviet nigrol, a dark lubricating oil, heals wounds well. But where to get it? You can use oil paint in two or three layers. True, modern additives can be toxic to the cambium, and dry paint quickly cracks and then peels off.

Here is a great tip for Siberians: V. A. Dolmatov’s lacquer paste. Valery Alexandrovich- resident of Zlatoust, experienced gardener, herbalist and biochemist. His lacquer paste is a natural product, made from hydrocarbons. At first it is almost liquid, it is perfectly absorbed, but in the air it quickly thickens and forms a thin film, like varnish. It is very convenient to work. I have already managed to evaluate this invention, having smeared thousands of wounds with a brush in the cold after harvesting the cuttings. Along the edges of large wounds and on frost holes, the varnish-paste stimulates the growth of a new young bark, which is also confirmed by N. I. Kurdyumov. Another important plus: odorous varnish paste with a guarantee protects against mice. It is a pity that it does not protect against hares!

Dolmatov's address, like other addresses, is in the final chapter.

* * *

Finally, about the soul.

Many gardeners cut trees with a light heart. They argue scientifically: each kidney has its own soul. A tree is not an individual, but a population, a "clan" of thousands of buds connected in single system. And it is not afraid to sacrifice individual branches for the prosperity of the entire "clan".

Personally, these arguments do not help me. What is called, I feel with my skin how it hurts the trees. And I want to warn you: if you perceive pruning in the same way, and you have a weak heart, it’s better to refuse pruning, don’t torture yourself. I experienced it in my heart: I almost ended up in the hospital. At the very least, don't cut the awakened trees. Move the pruning to the beginning or middle of March - at this time the tree is still sleeping, and anesthesia is provided to it.

From email pages http://sadisibiri.ru/klimat-perehitrim-9.html

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This book is an unusual phenomenon: an example of a bold experience of successful practice, a burst of scientific freethinking and a boyish dream. She opens her eyes to a lot! It turns out that not only selection should promote fruit crops to a more severe climate, whether it be dry heat or frost over forty - there is also adaptive agricultural technology. It turns out that many varieties can be adapted to harsh conditions - to unlock their viability potential. It turns out that we simply do not know how to create durable, strong and sustainable trees - we never set such a goal. Well, let's learn it! Sincerely yours, Nikolai Kurdyumov

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