During operation wooden houses or baths, cracks begin to appear in the timber. This process cannot be prevented, as it is typical for wooden buildings.

Why, it is desirable to seal cracks in the timber

Small cracks on the surface of the wood do not negative impact for the operation of the building. Most often, they can be decorative element giving the logs a certain personality. Still, the appearance of cracks should not be treated negligently.

If cracks in timber have a width of more than 5 mm and spread throughout the log or beam, then it is necessary to take measures to prevent their spread. Why do it?

• Water will get inside the cracks, the moisture content of the wood will increase and it will begin to rot.
• Wood cracks are a favorite place for various bark beetles, which, feeding on wood, will render even the most durable logs unusable.

Therefore, if deep cracks are found, they must be repaired immediately.

Prevention of cracks

To prevent the appearance of cracks in the timber, it is necessary to apply a number of measures.

Natural drying of logs for a long time. This type of prevention is the most effective. Uniform drying of wooden fibers prevents the appearance of cracks during the operation of the log house. Logs are dried in the shade, the place should be dry and cool. As a result of drying, the moisture content of the logs should be at the level of 18-20%.

Compensatory (unloading) propyl. The sawing procedure is carried out either in the upper or in the lower part of the log along its axis, which allows you to remove excess stress in the wood fibers. As the log dries, the kerf begins to expand, and natural cracks decrease.

Sealing logs from the end. The sawn ends of the logs dry somewhat faster than the rest of the log. Therefore, most cracks appear precisely at the ends of the logs. To prevent the formation of cracks, it is necessary to block the exit of moisture through the ends of the logs, that is, apply a sealant. Moisture will stop evaporating from the ends and will go to the outer layers of wood, where its evaporation will take place more evenly. Used as a sealant oil paint, varnish, wax solutions, drying oil and PVA glue.

Sealing cracks in timber:

Preventive measures prevent the occurrence a large number cracks, but they cannot completely eliminate their formation. can hide cracks in timber, to prevent the processes of decay in them by embedding.

Sealing cracks in timber possible different ways. Of the materials most often used for this, putties that harden in air, dry mixes, and sealants.

Methods for sealing cracks in a beam

The use of sawdust and PVA as putty. The cracks that appear are filled with self-made putty, which includes sawdust and PVA. They are mixed to the consistency of thick sour cream and fill the resulting gap. If, after drying, the putty has slightly fallen off, then the empty space is again sealed with it.

Putty as a finishing mix. Acrylic putty is used only for sealing cracks small size(no more than 3-4 mm). If the crack is larger, then the putty seal is impractical - after hardening, it will simply crack and fall out. Putties for wood are waterproof, dry quickly and do not succumb to the action of cold, which has a good effect on their durability.

The use of acrylic sealants for sealing cracks in the timber. Syringe-based acrylic sealers are great for sealing wood gaps. The sealant layer should not exceed 5 mm, therefore, when sealing deep cracks, a special tourniquet is laid deep into it, on top of which sealant is applied.

Gypsum as a sealing material. Plastering of cracks is carried out with arbogypsum - a mixture of alabaster with sawdust, chopped straw, fine bark, tyrsa. The mixture is done as follows: 3 parts of sawdust are taken for one part of gypsum and diluted with water (2: 1). To make the composition more plastic, add a few drops of any shampoo to it and mix thoroughly so that lumps do not form. The sealing mixture hardens quickly, so it must be used immediately after preparation. Arbogypsum is laid in cracks with a spatula and left to completely harden.

Sealing cracks in timber moss. Large cracks can be caulked with moss. Dry moss is soaked in water for 30 minutes before embedding. After a while, the water is drained, and the excess moisture is squeezed out. Rollers are twisted from soft moss and placed in cracks with a wooden spatula, pushing deep inside. Then they tap with a hammer so that the roller becomes dense (the moss begins to spring). Moss drying takes place within 3 days. During this time, its volume increases by 20% and the cracks are carefully clogged.

The above methods of sealing cracks can be used both outside and inside the house from a bar. All methods do not harm the wood, contribute to the removal of cold bridges and increase the strength of the tree.

DRY PROFILED BAR. MYTH OR REALITY?

Question: - Why did you choose (a) just such a foundation (material for walls, roofing, etc.)

Answer: - A neighbor (girlfriend) suggested (read on the forums

We were probably lucky that, having been engaged in woodworking since 1998, we worked mainly for export. They worked quietly. They sold thousands of m3 of sawn timber both raw, and dry, and planed .... The customer sent us an application formed on the basis of GOSTs, international standards, specifications.…Our business was only to "sharpen" the technology for this and fulfill contracts. We were not interested in the opinion of Hans, Johns and other individuals who have "their own" opinion about what should be the material that he buys. Strange, right? After all, “The customer is always right” was not invented in Russia. We “dragged” IT from there .... Because of the bump! And "it turned out as always" (c) V. I. Chernomyrdin.

In 2008, when the main export was "covered with a copper basin", we were forced to switch to the domestic market. And here the most interesting began. Having started working with network structures, I realized that each wholesale buyer has his own view and opinion on the quality of products that he WOULD like to receive. GOSTs were of no interest to anyone. The grades "EXTRA", "PRIMA" appeared in the moldings, which the civilized world has not heard of at all .... At the same time, hundreds of cubes sold RAW lining, sheet pile, block house ... Yes, and there are still such requests!

We started the production of profiled timber….

That is, we reached the final Buyer. Drive added =)

Here it turned out that builders and their customers are not at all interested in the requirements of GOSTs and SNIPs, which determine the requirements for structures and wood products.

Wood moisture requirements in products LINK

So, according to these rules and requirements, the use of wood of natural moisture is not allowed at all. Maximum humidity - 25% for elements "working" in contact with the external environment.

Having offered along with the profiled timber of natural moisture (the Buyer is always right) the supply of dry profiled timber, and understanding how the producers of its advantages, we are faced with the fact that there is no serious demand for dry timber!

Trying to understand the "rules of the game" I had to climb into forums, reviews and other "authoritative" tools, where a potential Customer forms OWN opinion on dry profiled timber.

And then it got uncomfortable...

Here are the "hits" found on the pages of one respected resource:

• - Really dry is 8-12%. And this does not exist in nature!
• - All that the Internet offers is the humidity of a stale timber of 16-25% or a normal winter
• - Equilibrium humidity for different regions different as far as I read. for MSCs, this is 16-18% on average. 18-20% already smells of the tropics?
• - I consider a bar with a moisture content of more than 16% as a material of natural moisture content!

For some, it “smells” of humidity, which is prescribed for the whole world in specific numbers, someone considers 16% natural humidity, although this is also a specific legal indicator. There would be a desire to "read books." But where is it.

And after all, this is said authoritatively, these people are listened to. Against their background, timid attempts by manufacturers are recognized as “marketing tricks” and an attempt to “make money” .... And then it is proposed to use a bar of natural moisture.

Let's try to figure out what is still better than dry or raw profiled timber?

I undertake to assert that the matter is not at all in the quality of this or that timber, but in the amount of cash or non-cash money that a person is ready to spend on “the house of his dreams”. Well, or let not dreams, but simply the desire to build a house.

Glued laminated timber is embarrassing at a significant price, environmental issues are also embarrassing because of the totality of qualities, the choice is behind a profiled full-bodied timber.

I dare say that 90% of people who order raw solid timber sleep and see a house made of glued laminated timber! Also, a person who dreams of a Japanese jeep buys a Chinese one ... It's just that his personal budget does not allow it. There is nothing reprehensible here ... We just live in such a world. There are many temptations, but not enough money.

The remaining 10% fall on those who cannot reasonably explain why they want a wooden house. They just WANT to live in a wooden house! And this attitude causes nothing but respect and understanding in me.

I insist that dry kiln-dried timber exists.

Even in the section 200x200. And even with 18+/-2 percent moisture throughout the thickness. I know manufacturers who are responsible for their work and are responsible for their words.

At the same time, I admit that there are offers on the market for “supposedly” dry timber. But this is the problem of the Consumer, who does not know how to control the humidity.

I tried to collect the main arguments "against" dry profiled timber.

HERE THEY ARE (THE LIST WILL BE REPLENISHED):

• There is no dry kiln-drying lumber.
• This is an extra, unnecessary "stray", "marketing ploy"
• Expensive.
• There is no point in drying, it will get wet anyway.
• It will turn out, and it will crack.

I will try to express my opinion on these topics.

There is no dry kiln-drying lumber.

I tried to comment on this thesis in the introductory part of this article. In addition, I can say one more thing. At one time, we sent timber 150x200, 200x200 to Finland and saw with our own eyes that the Finns dried it. And it was at the beginning of the century. For them there was no question whether it happens or not. They just did it. For non-lazy and meticulous people, there is a simple advice - find technologists who worked in the Soviet Union and ask the question "Is it possible to dry the timber." And hear the simple answer "You just need to be able to dry."

This is an extra, unnecessary "stray", a "marketing ploy".

Let me start with a quote:

Wood drying is the process of evaporating the moisture contained in the wood; one of the varieties of hydrothermal wood treatment(See Hydrothermal treatment of wood).

The purpose of S. d. is to reduce the moisture content of wood to a level corresponding to the operating conditions of products made from it, which prevents changes in their size and shape, protects the wood from decay, increases its strength, reduces the weight of products, increases the reliability of adhesive joints and the quality of the finish.(TSB) LINK

If you are not interested in the points in bold, and you are ready to reinvent the wheel, then for God's sake. Nothing to say.

Expensive

Let's count.

Let the house you move into cost you $1 million. rub. (This figure is taken for convenience and clarity of calculations). This is a house with a roof, windows, doors, floors, ceilings, some kind of communications…..

I affirm that in terms of investment, the cost of the wall kit will not exceed 25% of the total amount. Let's assume that this is a profiled timber of natural moisture. You bought it for 7300 rubles. and spent 250,000 rubles. Having bought a dry profiled beam at a price of 11,000 rubles. You will spend 376712 rubles. That is, the house will cost you 1,126,712 rubles. For 127,000 rubles. more expensive.

For what - you ask?

• Plus, the opportunity to start finishing a year earlier than in a house made of raw timber
• Plus, do not look back at the stove, controlling the heating of a new house
• Plus savings on rent or renting someone else's apartment if you are building a house for permanent residence
• Plus, the absence of problems with cracks "in the thickness of a finger."

There is no point in drying, it will get wet anyway.

This is the most delusional quote that I re-read several times and could not believe my eyes. It is useless to prove anything here. It is enough to go to any timber trading base to measure the moisture content of any lumber that has lain for at least six months. Measure and understand that the wood, which no one dried artificially, dried itself to a moisture content of 16-20%. With a bar it is more difficult, it dries longer. It turns out that the wood itself tends to the humidity prescribed in GOSTs. But no one is interested.

It will turn out, and it will crack.

Here I agree. Yes, it can turn out, and it will crack. Another question is WHERE will it turn out and will it crack? In the case of raw profiled timber, this will happen already within the walls of your house. And you will not have a single chance to make claims to anyone except yourself. In the case of dry profiled timber, this will take place in production. Before the profiling process. Will be rejected. And you will receive a ready-made product that you can control both in terms of humidity and size. With confidence that in a week you will be able to start finishing. Since dry timber is much easier to assemble (ask the builders).

And separately I want to say about the cracks on front side.

1. They will be in one and the other case. But there are cracks and cracks. There are cracks in dry material, where even a toothpick will not fit, but there are cracks that are discontinuous, as thick as a finger. And here it is necessary to mention one more quality indicator of the timber. If you see the core at the end of the beam at a distance of more than 1 cm from the nearest edge of the beam, and if the annual rings on the end are not located symmetrically with respect to the vertical axis drawn through the middle of the beam, then be sure that big cracks You are guaranteed. Order those beams by mentioning the magic combination of letters and numbers 2 ex-L
2. In order to avoid cracks almost 100%, there are only 2 ways - glued laminated timber or sheathing with a timber simulator and a block house.4. And the last…. Damn, why is aged wood considered a special "squeak" in the West? Why do designers manage to earn money by aging wood? But this is a matter of taste ... .. I agree and conclusions: 1. Dry timber is not fiction.2. If they deceived your neighbor (neighbor) or someone on the forum, this does not mean that they will deceive you too. Be smart. After all, not everyone signed up for MMM 2 times.3. “Don't shoot the pianist. He plays the best he can." With the departure of the USSR, the QUALIFICATION was lost in woodworking and the BLEF flourished in full bloom. Bluff, calculated on your ignorance and limited budget. The majority does not want to STUDY the primary sources, but believes the interpreters of the primary sources. But this is at best. At worst, these interpreters consider themselves woodworking gurus. I will repeat the example "... I consider a bar with a moisture content of more than 16% as a material of natural moisture! ..."
3. There are good manufacturers on the market. They either retained KNOWLEDGE and EXPERIENCE, or acquired it anew. And it is impossible to disrespect such people and put them on a par with the swindlers who sell "withered" timber!

Hello!
I am a pro in this area, dozens of times I have witnessed the selection of planed timber by capricious townspeople, and sometimes these criteria “SHOCK” me to put it mildly.
Here is the answer to your question in the article: - "Sliced ​​dry timber - selection criteria!" I strongly advise you to read before making a purchase. the purchase of this timber is not a very cheap pleasure and you need to clearly know and understand what you are paying a lot of money for. In order for the answer to be complete and to remove all questions on this topic, I will begin describing the scope of application in the construction of planed timber.
APPLICATION AREA:
Section 200x200.
Designed for the construction of a "well" of the frame of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house, and practically does not shrink because it has undergone chamber drying (it has a moisture content of up to 20%). It has no deformation along the entire length, has a perfectly smooth and flat surface from all four sides. This is not unimportant, because many, having spent no small amount of money on the purchase of this timber, do not want to spend money on interior decoration, just chamfer inside the edges of the timber and use it as a decorative element inside the living quarters of a wooden house. However, it is also used as a decor in the manufacture of load-bearing elements of a wooden house.
This section of planed dry timber is not standard and is not mass-produced, it has the character of piece production. The trading floor is available from 6 to 10 pcs. no more. Before buying, you need to specify the number of pieces available.
Section 200x100.
This beam is intended for the construction of the rafters and floors between floors. Wealthy citizens sometimes require that the floor logs are also made from a beam of this section, because. it has been heat treated and is dry. As practice shows, they leave it open as an element of decor after processing with septic tanks in the required color. Passed chamber drying (has a moisture content of up to 20%). It has no deformation along the entire length because it was sharpened on the machine and has a perfectly smooth and even surface on all four sides. Chips, potholes and scratches are not allowed, so each piece is packed in transparent cellophane bags. This is not unimportant, because many, having spent no small amount of money to purchase this timber, although they spend money on finishing, are used in the manufacture of load-bearing elements of a wooden house.
Section 150x150.
This beam is intended for the construction of a “well” of the frame of the load-bearing walls of a wooden house, and practically does not shrink because it has undergone chamber drying (it has a moisture content of 15 to 18%). Given this circumstance, you can proceed to the interior decoration of the premises of a wooden structure. It has no deformation along the entire length because it was sharpened on the machine and has a perfectly smooth and even surface on all four sides. This is not unimportant, because many people, having spent a lot of money to purchase this timber, do not even spend money on interior decoration, they simply chamfer the inside of the edges of the timber and use it as a decorative element inside the living quarters of a wooden house. However, it is also used as a decor in the manufacture of load-bearing elements of a wooden house, for example, stairs.
Section 150x100.
This beam, like 200x100 (see section 200x100), is intended for the construction of the rafter part and floors between floors. Chips, potholes and scratches are not acceptable, so each piece. packed in transparent cases. packages.
Section 100x100 and 100x50.
Used in frame construction.
As long-term practice shows, planed-dry timber, due to its high cost, is used mainly as a decoration, subjecting it to minor processing.

Cracks are an indispensable element of any log house. Small cracks are not dangerous, but they give the log house a unique “antique” charm. However, large cracks pose a serious danger. In this article, we will talk about why cracks appear on a log or timber, why they are dangerous and how to fix them.

Why cracks appear in logs

Wood is a porous material that has the ability to absorb and release moisture. Moisture is distributed unevenly, impregnating first upper layer and then getting inside. The higher the moisture content of the wood, the deeper the water has penetrated. When the humidity environment turns out to be lower than the same wood parameter, the reverse process begins, called shrinkage. During the drying process, the wood loses moisture and the dry pores shrink, which reduces the size of the timber or log. If a bar or log of natural moisture is used for the construction of a log house, that is, completely saturated with water, then the drying process proceeds unevenly. The outer layers, having lost excess moisture, decrease in size, while the inner ones are still filled with water. As a result, the outer layers break and cracks appear.

Is it possible to prevent the appearance of cracks in the tree

It is known from experience that there are almost no cracks in houses made of glued or profiled timber with a moisture content of less than 14 percent. This is due to the fact that in the process of chamber drying, moisture is removed from all layers of wood. Then lumber is made from logs, and timber is made from it. A house built from dry timber is treated with substances that create a film that is permeable to water vapor, but does not let water through. Thanks to this film, even in heavy prolonged rains, the timber absorbs very little moisture and it penetrates shallowly. In addition, glued laminated timber consists of separate lamellas connected with glue, which does not let water through, but does not prevent the movement of steam. Due to this, even during prolonged rains, humidity increases only at the outer lamella and does not penetrate deeper.

It is possible to prevent a strong increase in humidity, and hence the appearance of new cracks in log cabins from logs and timber, but for this you will first have to dry the walls with high quality, so the processing of the log house must be carried out in early autumn, before the start of rains. Used to protect wood various substances, which are described in detail in the articles - and.

What are the dangers of cracks and cracks

Even the smallest crack is a gate for harmful bacteria and fungi. Unlike the upper layer, blown by the wind and the inner layers, in which there is no free water, water droplets accumulate in the cracks. And the presence of high humidity is one of the conditions that ensure the rapid reproduction of harmful bacteria. If the treatment of the log house with antiseptics is performed incorrectly, or the penetration depth of the impregnations is less than the depth of the crack, then bacteria begin to multiply in it, as a result of which rot and dust appear. The place of bacteria in the cracks can multiply spores of fungi (molds), which create a mycelium that soaks the entire log or timber, making it very difficult to fight them.

Another danger that occurs as a result of the appearance of cracks is a decrease in the mechanical strength of wood. This is especially dangerous on the lower crowns and the upper crown, to which the roof is attached. Strong wind or an earthquake can destroy such a house, because a log or timber weakened by cracks will not withstand the increased load. There are cases when, as a result of the appearance of a crack, a log fell apart into two unequal parts. In addition, the crack reduces the resistance of wood to open fire. After all, fire protection agents impregnate only the top layer of wood, and to a shallow depth (up to 2 cm), so the crack opens access to a tree that has not been treated with these substances.

How to close a crack in logs

To seal a crack, the following methods are used:

• caulk;
• puttying;
• sealing.

Caulker - the most ancient and very effective method. Its essence is that fibrous materials are hammered into the crack - linen or jute tow, as well as some types of moss. Caulking protects the gap from water droplets and effectively removes moisture during drying. For puttying, various solutions and compositions are used, which create a solid plug in the crack, impervious to water. Sealing is similar to puttying, but differs in that special substances are used for it - sealants, which not only create an elastic cork, but also bind to the wood, impregnating it to a fraction of a millimeter. Thanks to this, the sealant never falls out of the log or timber, because the cork expands and contracts with the wood.

How and with what to caulk a log house

For work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• caulk;
• wide and narrow chisel;
• drill and a set of drills;
• sharp knife, hammer;
• linen or jute tow;
• northern moss;
• wood preservatives.

Caulker is similar to a wide chisel and can be purchased at most hardware stores. If for some reason you could not buy a caulk, you can use a chisel or chisel with a rounded blade. Along the edges of the crack, drill holes 2-3 cm deep and with a diameter equal to the width of the crack. These holes will prevent further expansion of the crack and facilitate processing. Clear the crack of dirt and look inside. If the wood is of a normal color, then dry the crack with a hair dryer or fan heater. If the wood is gray, blue or black, then remove the affected wood with a knife and chisels, then dry for 20-40 hours. Treat the crack with antiseptics that are used for outdoor work in wooden houses. Treat the sealing material - tow or moss with the same antiseptic. After 2-3 days, when the crack and the material are completely dry, start caulking. To do this, drive the tow or moss into the crack as deep as possible with a caulk, a blunt chisel or a chisel, using a hammer. Don't hit too hard. After the gap is completely clogged, let it stand for a week and cut off the protruding material with a sharp knife. After that, treat the entire wall with antiseptics and protective substances.

Puttying

To fill the gaps you will need the following materials and tools:

• rubber (polyurethane) and metal spatula;
• container for mixing putty;
• antiseptics for outdoor work;
• sharp knife;
• drill and a set of drills;
• putties for outdoor woodwork (can be replaced with PVA glue and sawdust);
• sandpaper.

When choosing a putty, it must be taken into account that with a gap width of more than 2 mm and a depth of more than 5–7 mm, the use of any solid putties used for windows and doors is pointless - if they do not collapse in winter, they will fall out in summer. After all, wood breathes, constantly absorbing and releasing moisture, which is why it changes its size. Therefore, for large gaps, a mixture of PVA glue and small ones is best suited. sawdust. This composition, after drying, passes water vapor, has sufficient elasticity and effectively sticks to the walls. A mixture of glue and sawdust can be replaced with acrylic putties for outdoor woodwork, they tolerate compression and stretching well. When choosing a putty, consider its color. If the color of wood and putty will be very different, then appearance the log house is badly damaged.

The preparation and antiseptic treatment of the fissure is carried out in the same way as described in the previous section. After that, putty is prepared and the crack is filled with it, trying to compact it with high quality so that it reaches the very bottom. Then the putty is compared with the surface of the timber and left to dry. If you use a mixture of PVA glue and sawdust, then it will have to be applied twice, because after the first time the mixture will go deep into the crack and after drying it will be necessary to apply another layer. After drying, the repaired crack is treated sandpaper. Having finished with the sealing of the crack, treat all the walls of the log house with antiseptics and protective substances.

Sealing

For sealing, you will need the same tools as for puttying, as well as special ones that can be purchased at hardware stores, such as Ramsauer 160 ACRYL or any other acrylic-based material and a gun for it. In addition, for deep and wide cracks, you will need a jute rope, although you can get by with jute or linen tow. Carry out preparation for sealing cracks as described in the section on caulking. If the gap is wider than 5 mm and deeper than 10 mm, then 2/3 fill it with rope or tow, then fill the crack with sealant using a gun. After the sealant dries, carefully cut it off with a knife and treat the wall with antiseptics and protective substances.

What is the best way to seal cracks

There is no single answer to this question. Professionals who build wooden houses since Soviet times, they have unanimously argued that caulking is best. Modern masters say that sealant and tow or jute rope are better. And those who live for a long time in log houses most often stop at a mixture of PVA and sawdust. According to the cost of materials, all methods can be arranged in order of increasing price:

1. A mixture of PVA and sawdust;
2. Dry putties;
3. Linen and jute tow;
4. acrylic sealants.

According to the cost of work, if you do not do it yourself, but turn to specialists, the methods are arranged in order of increasing cost of work:

1. Putty;
2. Sealing;
3. Caulker.

If you do not close the crack yourself, then the total cost of the work of any method will be approximately the same. Indeed, professionals do not work with a mixture of PVA and sawdust, and the use of less expensive materials (tow) is compensated by a noticeably longer time that will have to be spent.

The durability of the structure depends on the quality of the drying of the wood, otherwise the timber may warp, rot over time, and insects and fungus will definitely start in it. So how to dry a timber without cracks and residual harmful moisture? After all, only proper drying will improve the mechanical qualities of wood, prevent it from warping, rotting and cracking.

Note that the instruction states: the moisture index indicates the amount of water in the wood. By the way, this moisture can be both free and bound. But free moisture evaporates well, lightening the wood, and bound moisture leaves very slowly.

Features of dried timber

It is clear that at first moisture from the outer layers intensively evaporates. This is what creates a lot of stress in the wood: stretching the surface and the appearance of cracks.

Varieties of timber

Experts specify how to dry timber with different shrinkage coefficient:

• low drying - pine, spruce, fir, white poplar, cedar;
• medium drying- beech, oak, aspen, elm, black poplar, ash, small-leaved linden;
• strongly shrinking- hornbeam, Norway maple, birch, larch.

Percentage = weight of water in wood/weight of dry wood.

Dried lumber properties

Let's summarize the goals of timber drying:

• increase the safety of the material;
• enhance strength properties;
• avoid cracks;
• strengthen connections;
• simplify construction work;
• increase insulating ability;
• protect the tree with paint immediately after installation;
• reduce the inevitable changes to the finished building;
• improve the surface without additional cladding.

Methods for creating dried timber

atmospheric, natural

• We store the beams in stacks under awnings on outdoors several months.
• We will cover their ends with glue or lime to avoid cracks.
• But from changes in weather, humidity and temperature, the material is sometimes deformed, small cracks form.

Chamber

A highly effective alternative to the atmospheric method is chamber drying.

• Timber in drying chambers equipped with heating heaters, fans, air ducts favor uniform, proper drying.
• The effectiveness of such drying is indisputable: we do not depend on the weather, and the computer controls the process, reducing time, but increasing volumes.

Note! Freshly cut it already with 20% humidity.

Generator

Drying with high-frequency generators.

• Here, the wood in the circuit of this generator is the dielectric in the capacitor (the electrical energy of the supplied alternating current turns into heat).
• The bar, heating up, dries intensively and evenly.
• But the cost of electricity is significant, which means that the price of timber is higher. By the way, ready-made dry timber is always 2 times more expensive.

Types of drying chambers

convective

In convection chambers, energy is supplied to the wood from the air cycle, and heat transfer is by convection.

There are 2 types of such cameras.

• Channel dryers continuous action, where stacks are constantly pushed further to a drier place in 4 to 12 hours. The tunnel is loaded from the "wet" edge, and unloaded from the opposite, "dry" one.
• Special drying chambers periodical action smaller than tunnel ones and can only have 1 door. But the parameters of the environment, ventilation, ventilation reversal guarantee perfect drying. After the end of drying, the chamber is completely emptied and loaded with raw logs, from which energy losses increase by 20% than in tunnel chambers.

Condensing

• The condensation chamber collects the evaporating moisture on the coolers and drains it into the sewer.
• But here, heat pumps do not produce high temperatures, so the cycle is slowed down.
• Electricity is provided by the cooler compressor.

innovative

• Vacuum chambers with a pressure of 0.5 bar accelerate the drying of the timber with a complete absence of warpage and cracks.
• Microwave chambers, electromagnetic dryers are also innovations, as are hot air dryers.

Drying at home

High-quality drying of timber at home can be carried out in one of the following ways.

Natural drying

Advice! It is worth knowing the time of cutting a tree under a beam: in autumn and winter there is no movement of juice, which means that the humidity is minimal - the logs will dry out quickly.

Conditions for proper drying:

• Selection of material of the same thickness and breed.
• Straight stacked material: Straight stacks and trellises between rows will increase air circulation.
• Base pads.
• Pegs one under the other and intermediate boards in a row with pegs;
• Optimal air movement: loose placement so that air can flow horizontally.
• Air shutters for uniform ventilation of stacks.
• The canopy will protect from rain and sun, and the ventilated area of ​​the site will speed up the process.

Note! Prolonged drying of the timber drying timber at home guarantees humidity less than 18%.

Thermal chamber

• Imitation of a dryer: non-residential premises with a brick stove and heating along the walls.
• We build stacks with our own hands, lay trellises in rows and heat the stove, raising the temperature to 50 degrees.
• Then the room cools down to + 20.
• Let's repeat the cycle.
• A week later, the beam is ready.

Advice! Final only in a heated room. Therefore, ventilated attics, heated sheds and garages, and residential buildings are the best storage and dryers.

Conclusion

• Primary drying is carried out in warm air, minimal humidity, but in natural conditions.
• We build the platform on poles.
• Across and along we put the timber on thin strips (for free ventilation).

It is not easy to find out the moisture level of the obtained dried wood at home. The master determines it by mass, by eye or by sound (dry wood rings when tapped).

Experienced practitioners recognize the degree of moisture in the chips: they tie a long chip in a knot. If the chips have not collapsed at the same time, then the wood is still damp, and if it breaks up, it is already dry. But let's pay attention to the core of the timber - it is sometimes more humid, then it is worth drying a little more.

The video in this article has additional information we need on this topic.