Style and life path of Coco Chanel. Coco Chanel: biography, personal life, family, husband, children - photo

Biography of Coco Chanel, fashion designer, designer, perfumer

Coco Chanel (fr. coco chanel, real name Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, fr. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel; August 19, 1883, Saumur - January 10, 1971, Paris) - French fashion designer who founded the Chanel fashion house and had a tremendous impact on the fashion of the 20th century [* 1]. The Chanel style, which contributed to the modernization of women's fashion, is characterized by borrowing many elements of the traditional men's wardrobe and following the principle of luxurious simplicity (le luxe de la simplicité). She brought the fitted jacket and little black dress into women's fashion. She is also known for her signature accessories and perfumes.

The famous Mademoiselle inscribed her name in the history of fashion in golden letters. It is customary to talk about Coco only with epithets - great, incomparable, grandiose, revolutionary, etc., etc. But few people know that, in addition to designing clothes and creating perfumes, Gabrielle Chanel had another occupation that brought considerable dividends. During the Second World War, the Great Mademoiselle worked for the Nazis.

Of course, the Chanel fashion house in every way rejects this, as well as the accusations of anti-Semitism against Mademoiselle. However, facts are stubborn things.

In 1939, when the Second World War, Coco closed all her fashion stores. Only the perfume line remained in operation: the company producing perfume for Chanel owned a controlling stake. And its owners - the Wertheimer brothers - did not want to lose their income. Well, no - so no, - agreed mademoiselle and left Paris. She settled in Switzerland, where she planned to wait out the horrors of the war. But it didn’t work out to sit aside: in 1940, her only nephew, Andre Palace, got into German captivity. And the loving aunt, in the hope of rescuing the young man, turned to her pre-war friend, Baron Hans Gunther von Dinklage. True, in peacetime, the imposing diplomat did not expand on the fact that he was a colonel in the Wehrmacht and was in the service of the chief of political secret intelligence, Walter Schellenberg. He preferred to lead a beautiful social life and was known as the favorite of women. They even called him Spatz, which means "sparrow" - for the ease with which he lived, with which he won the most impregnable hearts. It was to this 44-year-old Sparrow that the 57-year-old Chick turned. With unexpected, but very pleasant consequences for himself: the baron not only secured the release for Andre, but also became Mademoiselle's lover. Needless to say - a bonus is a bonus!

Of course it wasn't best time to start an affair with a Nazi officer. Chanel understood this, but she was also well aware that Sparrows was almost her last chance. In addition, the Great Mademoiselle simply lost her head - the baron was very attractive, educated, interesting, moreover, thirteen years younger than her. And - importantly - he did not betray his German origin in any way: the conversations were conducted exclusively in English language. However, even in English, Spatz managed to convince Chanel that she should use her authority and influence to end the war as soon as possible. He simply recruited her: in Abwehr, the Great Mademoiselle was listed as agent F-7124 with the code name "Westminster" - this is how Chanel's long-term romance with the Duke of Westminster echoed. Spatz decided to use the connections of his mistress in order to contact Churchill and convince him of the need for secret Anglo-German negotiations for a separate peace.

Operation Fashionable Hat was developed by Schellenberg personally.

It was decided that the easiest and most reliable way to arrange a meeting with Churchill was through Chanel's longtime acquaintance, the British Ambassador to Spain, Sir Samuel Hoore.

Allegedly then, in order to revive the "House of Chanel", the Great Mademoiselle went to Madrid. But not alone - but in the company of her former fashion model Vera Beit. The latter was needed as an additional "bait" - Vera came from an old English surname, was related to royal family and, most importantly, she was known as Churchill's favorite.

Vera found out about the true purpose of her visit to Spain already in Madrid - Chanel decided that there was simply no need to hide further. She also spoke about the instructions received from Schellenberg, and also boasted of her first success in the field of peacekeeping: the ambassador accepted the German message from her hands and promised to deliver it to Churchill personally.

She did not take into account only one small circumstance - the English aristocrat and former model had long been in the service of the Intelligence Service. So the very next day, British intelligence was aware of all the details of the Fashionable Hat. But the case was finally "failed" by Churchill's illness - the prime minister's condition was characterized as critical and all meetings with him were cancelled.

I had to leave Madrid without salty slurping ...

But unaccustomed to defeat, Gabrielle did not calm down. On the eve of the new year - 1944 - she went straight to Berlin, to an appointment with Schellenberg. What their conversation was about is not known for certain. Chanel herself always insisted that she only wanted a speedy end to the war, for which she used all her influence.

After the liberation of Paris, in the spring of 1945, Mademoiselle was immediately taken into custody. The French "Purge Committee" had questions for Chanel - mainly about her connection with von Dinklage (at that time her relationship with Schellenberg was simply not known). Then, justifying her connection with the German, she said: “A woman of my age, if she is lucky and she managed to find a lover, is unlikely to look into his passport ...” And yet, accusations of “horizontal” collaborationism were made against her. : in those days cohabitation with the Germans was regarded as a betrayal. Churchill stood up for Chanel. And so the Great Mademoiselle had a choice - either emigration or prison. She preferred the first option and went to Switzerland, where she waited with horror for the investigation and trial in the Schellenberg case. Is there anything he could say?

Fortunately for her, the German intelligence officer did not utter a word about his connections with the French fashion designer. He was given a relatively short term - only six years. But in 1951 he was already released - for health reasons. And where do you think he settled? That's right, in Switzerland. On a fake passport, he lived next to Chanel - and she completely supported him along with his wife. Then, when the dependent was calculated, he had to move to Italy - but even there Mademoiselle paid for Walter Schellenberg's accommodation.

Peace is expensive. But money was not a problem for Chanel - she was a very rich woman. But the question of reputation worried her seriously. No matter how much Gabrielle said: “I don’t care what you think about me, I don’t think about you at all,” she valued her worldwide fame. And that's why she paid well. As a result, she died rich and famous - with an unsullied reputation.

The success story of a woman entrepreneur, a famous French fashion designer and stylist, who has risen from the lowest social levels to the heights of world fame and incredible success, is amazing.

The biography of Coco Chanel can serve as an example of what perseverance and faith in yourself, you can achieve at first glance the unattainable. Coco Chanel, whose quotes express deep thoughts, was an interesting conversationalist.

Coco Chanel was born in an orphanage in Saumur in 1883. With Eugenie Jeanne Devol and Albert Chanel, she was already the second daughter born out of wedlock. The real name of the future celebrity was Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, which the girl received in honor of the nurse who took delivery of the girl's mother. An interesting fact is that Koko herself deliberately reduced her years, naming her date of birth 10 years later.

The biography of Gabriel's early life contains bitter pages. Orphaned at the age of twelve, the girl soon received a second “slap in the face from fate”: their five children are left by their father. And soon the relatives get rid of them by handing over the children to an orphanage.

The years of life spent within the walls of the monastery's orphanage can hardly be called happy... But it was they who taught the girl perseverance, patience, hard work. There, Gabriela decided that if fate did not want to give her at least a drop of happiness, she would achieve that she would receive it in full, to the brim. The life story of Coco Chanel is a vivid example of what a woman who sets a goal can achieve.

Youth

The biography of Chanel in her youth is much more interesting, filled with quests. Immediately upon leaving the walls of the monastery orphanage, the girl goes to work in a small shop as an assistant to the seller of linen, but in her free time she worked on the cabaret stage as a dancer and singer. Chanel failed to become a celebrity in these arts, but the name Coco stuck with her forever. And it is from performances in a cabaret that her personal, intimate life takes a countdown.

Etienne Balzan, an officer, not a poor man, falls in love with a 22-year-old young singer and invites her to cohabit. Coco Chanel has a new chapter in her biography, the title of which is "The life of the role of a mistress." She agrees and moves into his Parisian luxury mansion.

Needless to say, life in comfort and prosperity first pleased her. But not accustomed to inaction, Coco Chanel began to get bored. And she decides to become a milliner. And the role of a kept woman for Gabriela no longer seems so attractive.

Youth

Balzan did not take Coco's desire seriously, since there were plenty of milliners in Paris even without Chanel. But the girl was already on fire with this desire.

And having met a man who understands Chanel and promises to help with the opening of her shop, Coco leaves her former roommate and goes to live with Arthur Capel, an English industrialist who in 1910 helps her open a hat shop. From this store, the biography of Chanel, an entrepreneur, begins. It's interesting that This store is still in operation today..

Chanel's years of youth brought her fame. Clutches - small rectangular handbags on a chain owe their birth to Coco's forgetfulness. An excerpt from her quote reads:

“I keep losing purses and reticules! In addition, they are very inconvenient to hold in your hands all the time!

The history of the famous perfume "Chanel No. 5" has only an indirect relation to Chanel herself. After all, they were created by Russian emigre perfumer Ernest Bo in 1921. He, having fallen under the spell of the already mature, but so attractive Coco, invited her to choose the perfume she liked among 24 samples. The woman chose the fifth fragrance, which received its famous name.

Koko herself treated the spirits with almost reverence. An excerpt from a quote from a female fashion designer says that the trail of fragrance, stretching for a lady, will accompany the image created by her, sometimes playing a paramount role in this matter.

Small black dress

The history of the emergence of a unique dress model, according to the researchers of the biography of Gabriela-Coco Chanel, is connected with the love story of this amazing woman. Throughout her life, men fell in love with this most interesting woman, but Chanel failed to tie the knot. The death of Arthur Capel Coco was very worried. Quotes from her speeches reveal the depth of a woman's feelings.

“He is the greatest success of my life! He discovered the unique in me and taught me how to develop it at the expense of the rest, ”she said about Arthur.

But society considered it shameful to wear mourning for a person whose marriage was not registered. And Coco came up with an interesting dress model - the very little black dress that is fashionable today.

It can be worn during the day, and in the evening, and on holidays. But the most important thing in this outfit was to change accessories depending on the purpose of the attire.

So in the biography of Coco Chanel intertwined personal life and business, love and creativity.

Wise sayings of a celebrity

Many Chanel quotes are truly philosophical thoughts out loud. For example, the phrase: “It’s not worth wasting your time beating a wall, cherishing the hope of gouging a door in it - isn’t it better to look for other ways to apply your strength?”

Many quotes of a woman are associated with her great love. “Love should mobilize a person, add wings and courage to him!” But not only tender feelings help human achievements, Gabriel believes. Quotations can become confirmation: “Only one who does not suspect the inevitability or even the possibility of defeat can succeed” and “A person must be the master of his will, but always remain a servant of his conscience.”

It seemed that time had no power over the appearance of the first female fashion designer, famous to this day. She blossomed every day. Her beauty motto was the quotes: “Simple food and good dream with open windows, an early rise and a harsh work schedule will help create good spirits and body. You should not stay up late - there is nothing valuable in night vigils at secular parties. Night sleep full sleep is more expensive than entertainment” and “A woman can be born ugly. But if she remains so after 30 years, then she is either impassibly stupid or terribly lazy.

Gabriel's sense of humor can be envied by the current humorist. What are the quotes about champagne, which allegedly Coco can only drink for two reasons: either when she is in love, or when, on the contrary, she is not in love.

If you carefully read Coco Chanel's quotes, you can understand that she considers the main thing in fate not providence and chance, but constant work on herself.

Another love affair

The story of her next love is connected with the war, when a woman stopped doing her business. But in 1940, her nephew André Palace was captured. And Coco Chanel, in whose personal life there was a lull during this period, goes to her friend Hans Günther von Dinklage, who is an attaché of the German embassy. The result of this trip was the release of Andre and a love affair with Baron Dinklage.

The end of the war brought Coco trouble: she was remembered for contacts with the Germans, she was declared an accomplice of the Nazis and arrested. However, on the advice of Churchill, the woman was soon released with an offer to leave France. She moved to Switzerland, where she lived until 1953.

Interesting and eventful in the success story of Coco Chanel were the years of life in maturity. At the age of 71, Gabriel decides to return to the world of fashion and launches his new collection. However, it turns out that the world has already forgotten the talented fashion designer. And only three seasons later, fans again erected Chanel Gabriela-Coco on the "pedestal of worship."

Now the fashion designer presents in the collections not only clothes, hats and handbags, but also jewelry and luxury shoes. And again, Chanel, as in his youth, is a resounding success!

Last years of life

In the fifties and sixties, Chanel dresses Hollywood stars the highest level. These are Liz Taylor, Audrey Hepburn. The success story of a female fashion designer once again reaches its climax. And now there is even a Broadway musical called "Coco", where the role of Gabrielle was played by Katharine Hepburn. From the lips of the actress, quotes belonging to Gabrielle are pronounced from the stage - they are original, and sometimes even creative. For example, such quotes as “I don’t like elongated men’s jackets - I can’t watch during a conversation how a man treats me ...” are pearls of ironic content.

Coco Chanel is a legendary woman, fashion designer from France, who has become a symbol of the fashion world. She created a number of unique things, invented her own unique style, which is popular to this day.

Childhood and youth

Coco Chanel (real name Gabrielle) was born in the town of Saumur, famous for its vineyards, in August 1883. She was the second child of Albert and Jeanne Chanel. Coco had elder sister Julia, and later four more brothers and sisters were born: Alphonse, Antoinette, Lucien, Augustin.

Koko's father was a fair trader and did not often appear under the roof of his native home. The mother was in poor health and suffered from asthma. Jeanne died at the age of thirty-three, leaving six children in the care of her unlucky husband.

Albert Chanel was very burdened by the status of a father with many children and in the end he gave his younger sons to another family, and placed his daughters in an orphanage. He swore to them that he would soon return for them, but he never fulfilled his promise. It was because of her father that little Gabrielle settled inside a feeling of deep loneliness, which she then carried through her whole life.

Coco Chanel, whose biography is woven from personal losses and victories, was an impatient, restless girl. The nuns at the orphanage often prayed for her. It was they who taught Koko how to sew.

When Chanel was eighteen years old, she, along with her companion Adrienne, ran away from the orphanage. They had nowhere to go, and the girls went to Aunt Koko - Kostya. She insisted that they return to the monastery. However, the nuns, deeply indignant at the behavior of the pupils, refused to accept them.

With great difficulty, the girls managed to be placed in the Moulin Monastery, where they spent another two years. At the age of twenty, Coco and Adrienne got a job in a store wedding dresses. The work was not dusty, and the girls had a lot of time for fun.

To increase her earnings, Gabrielle decided to covertly from the owners to do hemming dresses. Adrienne supported her friend. However, the store owners soon found out about this and kicked the girls out.

Carier start

In one Moulin pub, Gabrielle, a girl not shy and mischievous, decided to perform on stage. Every evening she sang several songs, because of which she got a nickname for life. These were French compositions "Who saw Coco at the Trocadero?" and "Ko-ko-ri-ko".

Gabrielle had many admirers, one of which was Etienne Balsan. He was the heir to a large fortune and fell in love with the girl. She soon moved in with him. But life in luxury quickly bored Gabrielle. Having nothing to do, she sewed hats for rich ladies, Etienne's guests. But she soon realized that she wanted more.

In 1909, Coco Chanel, whose biography is full of moving, moved from Roalier, where she lived with Etienne, to Paris. There, in Balsan's apartment, she opens a hat workshop. There was no end to the clients. Everyone wanted to get a hat from a strange little Coco.

Fashion house "Chanel"

Soon, Mademoiselle Chanel realized that she was dreaming of more. Her goal was to own a boutique with a personal name on the sign. But this required a lot of money. They were given to her by Arthur Capel, her lover. Koko's dream came true. On the Rue Cambon in 1910, her first store with the loud name "Fashion Chanel" was opened. Her life's work flourished.

In 1913, Coco Chanel opened another store in Deauville. But even that wasn't enough for her. The insatiable Coco had a new dream - she wanted to create clothes. Simplicity, practicality, elegance became her main principles in her work. This is how jersey dresses, women's trousers, women's beachwear and much more were born. Already by 1919, Coco Chanel was known all over the world, every fashionista dreamed of getting a little thing from the hands of a fashion designer and trying on the style of Coco Chanel. Photos of that time convey all the elegance and practicality of her products at the same time.

On a summer day in 1920, the opening of a fashion house in Biaritz took place. In subsequent years, Chanel communicates a lot with Russian emigrants, which is reflected in her collections, where Russian motifs appear.

One close friend of Coco, Prince Dmitry Romanov, introduces her to perfumer Ernest Beaux. Then Koko realizes that she is ready to create something new and unique. Together they develop never-before-seen women's perfumes. The fifth option satisfied all the needs of Coco, it contained about eighty shades of different flavors. So the world-famous perfume "Chanel No. 5" was born. Once again, simplicity prevailed. This perfume became the best-selling in the world and remains so to this day.

The next item in Chanel's life plan was the creation of jewelry. Innovations in this area were also received with a bang. But Coco is already used to it. She became who she always dreamed of. Coco Chanel's phrases that she herself is fashion are familiar to many.

Coco Chanel and World War II

With the outbreak of World War II, Coco Chanel, whose biography is largely tragic, decides to close all her stores and the Fashion House. Friends suggested that she leave France, but Coco remained in Paris without a shadow of fear.

In 1940, by a terrible coincidence, Coco's nephew Andre was captured by the German invaders. The famous aunt rescued him with the help of her old friend, the German ambassador von Dinklage.

To this day, there are many rumors and there are versions that Coco Chanel was a valuable German spy and provided the Nazis with important information.

In 1943, Chanel traveled to Madrid to meet Winston Churchill to discuss Anglo-German relations. The meeting, however, did not take place.

After defeating the Nazis, Coco Chanel was attacked and accused in connection with her close relationship with the Germans. She was called an accomplice of the Nazis and even arrested. Chanel was released on the condition that she leave France.

So, Coco Chanel, whose biography at that time did not play with bright colors, moved to Switzerland, where she lived until 1953.

Return

At the age of seventy, Coco Chanel decided it was time to return to the world of fashion. She explained her decision by the fact that she could no longer observe what Dior and other fashion designers who became famous in the post-war period were turning into fashion. These phrases of Coco Chanel scattered all over the world, and hundreds of fashion critics wanted to see her first show after a long break.

The first show in 1954 was met rather coldly. Critics made fun of Coco, because there was no novelty in her models. Chanel calmly treated such statements, answering that this is the essence of fashion - in ageless elegance.

Soon, the collections of Coco Chanel were appreciated by world fashionistas, and the fashion designer became the owner of the largest and most sought-after Fashion House. Hollywood stars adored Coco Chanel. Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, even US First Lady Jacqueline Kennedy could not do without Chanel outfits. It was her next victory against all odds.

Personal life

Coco Chanel has always been different from other women. In the years of her youth, puffy girls were in fashion, and Coco was fragile, thin and did not fit the ideals of beauty. However, this did not stop her from making lovers.

Her first admirer was the wealthy officer Etienne Balsan. Koko quickly moved into his house. There was no mention of any marriage. They just enjoyed life and each other.

One day, Etienne's friend Arthur Capel (nicknamed Boy) came to Etienne's house from England. Seeing him, Koko realized that she had fallen in love for the first time, like that right away, passionately and unconditionally. The fight reciprocated her. They were together for almost ten years. Mademoiselle Chanel was as happy as ever, even though Arthur had no intention of proposing to her. He came from an aristocratic family, and his relatives would not allow this marriage to take place.

Koko's happiness ended in 1919 when Arthur died in a car accident. That year, black became Coco Chanel's favorite color. The biography, the personal life of the heroine are now thoroughly studied, and it is known that then she had a terrible depression.

The Russian prince Dmitry Romanov, whom Koko met a year after the tragedy, helped her get out of this state. He supported her morally, she supported him financially. After a couple of years, Romanov left for the United States, but he and Koko remained on friendly terms.

The longest romance in the life of Gabrielle Chanel lasted fourteen years. The English Duke Hugh Richard Arthur fell in love with the famous fashion designer at first sight. He showered her with gifts, expensive jewels, bought big house in London. Everything was fine in their lives, except for one thing: Coco Chanel was too many years old. Biography (children do not appear in it) shows that Chanel never experienced the joy of motherhood. The Duke of Westminster married another woman who gave him an heir.

Gabrielle found consolation from the break with the Duke in the arms of the artist Paul Iribarnegare. He was married, but for the sake of love for Koko, he decided to divorce. Everyone was waiting for the imminent wedding, but fate was pleased to send another test to Coco Chanel. The biography was replenished with another black day of her life. While playing tennis, Paul's heart stopped. Gabrielle went full-time to work to get through this tragedy.

During the war years, Coco Chanel had an affair with a German officer, von Dinklage, who nearly cost her her freedom. After her move to Switzerland love relationship are over.

Coco Chanel did not want to expose herself to mental suffering. There were no more men in her life. The legendary woman devoted her last years to her beloved work.

Death

At the end of her life, Coco Chanel felt very lonely. All her close friends had already left her, and although she was still surrounded by people and continued to work fruitfully, she spent her evenings at the Ritz Hotel alone. Often she could be seen sitting on the balcony and looking at the sunset.

Death met Gabrielle on her most hated day. It was a January Sunday, 1971. The only day off of the week when she didn't have to go to the fashion house. Coco Chanel's life was interrupted by a heart attack, and there was no one around to help her. Koko was eighty-seven years old.

According to the will, the ashes great woman was buried in the Bois de Vaux cemetery in Lausanne, Switzerland.

Merits

Coco Chanel has become a symbol of the fashion world, opening up a new fashion world. Coco Chanel's style (photos showing it are recognizable in any country) fell in love with millions of women. Among her main achievements in the fashion industry are the following:

1. Bag created in February 1955. Coco said that she always leaves her purse somewhere, so her invention was with a chain strap. Such a bag could simply be carried on the shoulder.
2. Perfume. "Chanel No. 5" - this is the name given to the fragrance, invented together with the perfumer Beau. He quickly won millions of hearts with his simplicity and novelty.
3. Small black dress. Coco has always strived to create something universal, in which both wealthy ladies and women with low incomes can look advantageous. She designed this dress in 1926. Now every self-respecting woman has a little black dress in her wardrobe.
4. Tweed suit. It's no secret that Chanel drew most of her ideas from men's wardrobe items. Tweed and jersey are rather coarse fabrics, but even the first ladies wore Chanel outfits. This was the era English style in the fashion designer.
5. Decorations. Coco gave new life pearls, as well as jewelry, which was combined with precious stones.
6. Short haircuts. One of the first Gabrielle Chanel made herself a haircut a la garcon. Fashionistas picked up her idea and cut their lush curls without regret.

The famous Coco Chanel has brought much more to the fashion and beauty industry. The description of her achievements will take more than one page, her contribution to the development of fashion is invaluable.

Heritage

After the death of the great fashion designer, there was a noticeable decline in the business of her whole life. Karl Lagerfeld, who replaced Coco Chanel, helped the fashion house return to its previous level. Biography (photos may reflect the entire life path Karla) was intense. Before the Chanel house, Lagerfeld managed to work at Fendi and Chloe. Since 1983, he has served as artistic director of Chanel.

1. The collections created in the fashion house were a reflection of the life path of Coco Chanel. The biography, quotes from which flew with the speed of the wind, claims that Koko looked for all new ideas in the wardrobes of her lovers. After the death of Arthur Boya, the collections plunged into black, as a sign of mourning for the deceased loved one. Friendship with Russian emigrants gave rise to new motifs in Chanel outfits. Life with the Duke of Westminster opened an English page in the Fashion House.
2. Chanel never bothered to sketch. A chain with scissors always dangled around her neck, and a pad of pins on her wrist. She created her masterpieces right on the models.
3. Chanel suffered from sleepwalking. One night, while in this state, she cut out a bathing suit from her dressing gown.
4. Coco Chanel never took money from famous actresses, whom she personally sewed dresses for various ceremonies (Romy Schneider, Ingrid Bergman).
5. Coco Chanel has been named one of the 100 Most Influential People in the World by Time magazine.

Name: Coco Chanel

Age: 87 years old

Place of Birth: Saumur, France

A place of death: Paris, France

Activity: fashion designer

Family status: was not married

Coco Chanel - Biography

Gabrielle Coco Chanel did what no one else in the fashion world could: get women to cut their hair. long hair, put on trousers instead of corsets and skirts, exchange family diamonds for glass. What was so special about this little fragile woman?

They say that a famous milliner wore a braid around her neck with scissors tied to it. She often cut off some details from models of dresses and jackets, declaring them superfluous. And once, right on the client, she ripped a suit from a competitor fashion designer, saying that it looks prettier this way. If Gabrielle could, she would certainly have redrawn her biography, cutting off and throwing out of her memory all the difficult and soul-stirring moments...

The biography of Coco Chanel originates in France, where she was born into this world. Spring in Paris is more than just a change of seasons. Blooming apple trees and tulips, the aroma of fresh pastries, Champ de Mars, Triumphal Arch, cheerful buildings of palaces and cathedrals make every person's heart beat faster. So it was many years ago, when the little foot of young Gabrielle stepped on the cobblestone pavement of the capital.

The coachman helped her carry a small suitcase out of the carriage - it contained a change of clothes, needles and thread, and some ladies' little things. Gabrielle had no other baggage, except, perhaps, illusory hopes and dreams. She turned 18, behind the death of her mother and the betrayal of her father, shelters, boarding schools and a Catholic monastery. Ahead is a bright future. At least the optimistic girl believed it. Boarding school taught her three things: the habit of being content with little, simplicity in clothes, and the ability to sew. Gabrielle rented a tiny room in the attic and got a job as a singer in the Rotonde cabaret.

Frankly, she did not have a special ear and voice, so there was no need to talk about a musical career. But there were no such requirements. Slender legs, the ability to coquettishly twirl the hem of the dress and entertain visitors-officers - that's all that was required from girls of this profession. Well, she learned a couple of frivolous songs. For one of them, "Coco", she even got her nickname, which will remain with her for life. The nuns would have seen her then! ..

That evening there was a commotion in the café. The room was filled with handsome officers in embroidered uniforms: a cavalry regiment of chasseurs had stopped in Paris. Cheerful young soldiers overflowed with money, drank without restraint and squeezed the girls laughing at their greasy jokes. But Coco, with her boyish figure, had no place at this celebration of life: the busty ladies, wrapped in a corset, were popular with the stronger sex.

“Well, there won’t be any tips today either,” Koko whispered angrily to the comrade, after which she noticed: a thin officer with a mustache winked at her, and then waved his hand in greeting. It was Sergeant Etienne Balsan, a wealthy heir to textile mills, burning his fortune and life, like many of his peers, over cards and booze. A friend pushed Koko in the back, and she stepped forward - towards Balsan and her fate.

A thin ray of light slid between the thick curtains and ran across Koko's face. She woke up, stretched sweetly and looked at her watch. The arrows showed noon. This is what is called an idle life! More recently, she got up before dawn, did not unbend her back in a sewing workshop, and at night she sang on the stage of a disgusting cabaret. Now she is surrounded by a world of luxury, and she is part of this world - all thanks to Balsan. And let her be called a kept woman, she doesn't care. If only the back did not hurt from hard work, and there were no painful calluses on the fingers.

Coco Chanel - biography of personal life

The other half of the bed was empty. Étienne got up earlier - his laughter was heard from below. Who is he talking to? Gabrielle put on her peignoir and went downstairs. A tall, handsome man stood with his back to her. Etienne saw her and smiled: “Here is Coco! Meet my dear! This is Boy, my English friend." The stranger turned around and kissed her hand: "Mademoiselle, let me introduce myself - Arthur Capel." Goosebumps ran down Gabrielle's spine. God, how beautiful he is! Black eyes, regular features, dark curls. Perfectly built: you can immediately see - an athlete.

And those long aristocratic fingers... And the manners are not like the rest of Balsan's friends! Coco shyly wrapped her peignoir around. Like a bird, she flew upstairs to change for dinner. Later in her diary, the great Mademoiselle confesses that she fell in love with an Englishman at first sight. Of course, she was not alone in her feelings: girls and women of all ages were simply thrilled by his one look. And he was helpful and impeccably gallant with all the ladies, but his heart remained free.

Returning to the living room, Koko sighed in disappointment: the guest had already left. Apparently, he had some urgent business. Carefully, so as not to betray the surging feelings, Coco began to ask Etienne about his friend. Englishman, aristocrat, millionaire. He inherited a decent fortune and increased it on his own. The best rider and polo player. No, he is not married and is not going to.

Smart, educated, educated. Never talks about his family. Rumor has it that he is the child of an unequal marriage between an aristocrat and King Edward himself. But this is gossip, of course. And why did all this suddenly interest little Coco so much?

Gabrielle understood that the questioning should stop. Since then, every moment Chanel was looking for a meeting with Boy, and he, it seemed, purposely began to visit his friend's estate more often. With Arthur, Koko could act at ease and talk about everything in the world: about how these swaggering ladies of the demimonde in their corsets and headdresses that looked like cakes annoyed her; that she dreams of revolutionizing fashion and secretly designs hats; that she is tired of the status of a kept woman and has long wanted independence. The boy supported Coco's idea of ​​having his own hat shop and even offered an interest-free loan. This confused Chanel a little, and she preferred to first discuss her undertaking with Etienne.

All her life, Mademoiselle emphasized her independence from men, while keeping silent about the fact that she made her career thanks to money and connections of lovers. Etienne liked the idea of ​​the store and gave Coco money for it, as well as providing space - his Parisian apartment. Perhaps Gabrielle's bored face was pretty fed up with him, and in such a simple way he sought to get rid of his beloved, because their relationship had long been devoid of passion. But Chanel didn't care.

She opened the store using Boy's loan offer. Now, under the "cover" of the business, she could see him more often and, moreover, alone. An affair began between Coco and Capel. The Englishman did not dare to take his mistress away from a friend for a long time, but after a frank conversation and a phrase thrown by Etienne: “Take it, she is yours!” made up my mind.

Fight filmed for Chanel cozy apartment near her fashion studio. And even if he could not introduce her to his relatives and London friends, and because of the eternal conspiracy they left the restaurants separately, Koko loved and was happy for the first time in her life.

Arthur helped Gabrielle with business, recommended her to wealthy clients, unobtrusively engaged in raising the level of her education and upbringing. It was he who made the great fashion designer Gabrielle Chanel out of the unknown restaurant singer Coco. And one day the day came when Chanel's circle of acquaintances surpassed Capel's aristocratic society: she was familiar with Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Picasso, Diaghilev, Stravinsky and many other representatives of Parisian bohemia.

Having increased her fortune, Koko not only gave Capel the money she borrowed, but also almost equaled him in terms of her capital. And yet, in her heart, Chanel remained a poor girl: it was these feelings that did not allow her to accept Capel's marriage proposal. She understood that they were of a different field of berries. Later, Koko bit her elbows, especially when her Arthur married a representative of his circle, a wealthy aristocrat, Diana Lister.

But you can't bring back the past. And the news about the pregnancy of the young wife of Boya simply killed Chanel. Especially after she lost their child with Boy and listened to the doctor's verdict that she would never have children again. However, Gabriel steadfastly endured all the blows of fate, plunging headlong into work.

Being a lark and a workaholic, Gabrielle Chanel demanded the same from her subordinates. She raved about her ideas, literally worked hard. Each of her innovations made a revolution in the fashion world. “Oh, how tired I am of carrying a reticule in my hands!” Koko sighed and attached a long chain to her small purse. "Who said a woman can't wear pants?" - and now thousands of French women are flaunting fashionable Chanel trouser suits that cost a fortune.

"How vulgar are these furs and diamonds!" - and Coco introduced costume jewelry and faux fur. Wishing to resemble the great Mademoiselle, women tightly wrapped their magnificent breasts with bandages and cut off their long hair. After all, most of Chanel's styles were made for her boyish figure.

On that fateful night, Koko could not sleep for a long time. She took sleeping pills, but she still had nightmares. Asphalt, a car, headlights and brakes screeching, twisted metal... She was awakened by a loud knock on the door of her own villa. An unfamiliar excited man ran into the hall: “Bad news ...” Chanel understood everything without words. Reality became a continuation of her nightmare. The fight crashed on the car. Her lover's heart was no longer beating...

Quicker! Quicker! Clothes, a car, there, there... The small, thin woman suddenly turned into a huge, furious lioness, trying to escape from the hands holding her. Gradually, her mind returned to her. Where? .. Why? .. After all, she is not his wife and is no longer his mistress. Even at a funeral, her appearance will be indecent.

The only way Chanel knew how to express her emotions was work. For several days she closed herself in the workshop until she sewed and put on her masterpiece - a little black dress. This is her personal mourning for the love of her life. Ironically, it was it that became not only a symbol of the Chanel fashion house, but also a standard of impeccable taste and style. The name of Arthur Capel will be forgotten, the great Mademoiselle will not be alive, and millions of women around the world of different ages and nationalities will wear a little black dress, not even knowing about its sad history.

Life goes on. A year after Boy's death, Chanel met Grand Duke Dmitry Romanov, a cousin of Emperor Nicholas II himself. Chanel flatters the attention of a person in whose veins blue blood flows. In addition, the prince is seven years younger than her. This temperamental Russian warmed Gabrielle's grieving heart. And let their romance last less than a year, Romanov managed to do no less for Chanel's business than Capel.

The prince introduced the milliner to the most influential and richest aristocrats, and as models and even seamstresses he offered Russian young ladies, representatives of the most famous families who were forced to flee the revolution and look for work in Europe. Immersed in Russian culture, Chanel transferred many of its elements to her models. But the main thing that Dmitry Romanov did was to bring Coco together with perfumer Ernest Bo, who in the future would create the famous Chanel No. 5 perfume for Gabrielle.

Gabrielle has long been accustomed to the fact that only work is a constant unit in her life, and men appear and disappear. Therefore, I was not surprised either by the departure of Romanov to the USA, or by his imminent marriage to a wealthy American woman. She herself was already almost in love with another representative of the aristocracy (Coco no longer looked at mere mortals!), the Duke of Westminster. Their relationship lasted for a long 14 years, until the idea of ​​​​an heir took possession of the duke, whom Chanel could not give him.

Many novels are attributed to the great Mademoiselle, including with Igor Stravinsky and even with some women. One way or another, one fact remains indisputable: becoming one of the most successful and highly paid fashion designers in the world, Gabrielle Chanel was never able to get married or at least arrange her personal life.

Unexpectedly for everyone, Mademoiselle suddenly closed all her French boutiques and moved to live in Switzerland. The reason for this strange act was called a creative crisis, pressure from competitors and even politics. In the life of Coco came a long depression. And none other than her new lover, the German diplomat Hans Gunther von Dinklage, who turned out to be part-time ... Hitler's spy, was to blame for this. He dragged Koko into his political games, forcing him to set him up with her friend Winston Churchill, and also to pass secret messages to other high-ranking clients.

As a result, the government accused Chanel of complicity with fascism and expelled her from France. It was black spot on her reputation. It took Gabrielle several years to perk up and muster up the courage to re-enter the fashion industry. And she did it! However, she vowed not to start novels until the end of her life and kept her word.

Having celebrated her 71st birthday, Coco presented her new collection to the world, the center of which was the famous tweed jacket with a skirt. Her clients were the wives of high-ranking politicians and Hollywood stars, including Elizabeth Taylor.

Coco hated Sundays. Wow, what nonsense: on this day no one works! She is 87 years old, and she is not used to spending time in idleness. True, in recent years, betting on the hippodrome has become her hobby. That's where she's going today. It took more time than usual for the preparations, the legs and arms suddenly became poorly obeyed, as if they were strangers. Numb fingers released a vial of medicine, which shattered on the floor of a posh suite at the Ritz Hotel. You have to call for help, but she can't move. "That's how they die ..." These were last words great Mademoiselle.

They are still at the peak of popularity among it-girls. Today we decided to tell you about the life of the great Gabrielle Chanel, the reformer of women's wardrobe, and show you some archive photos.

Childhood and youth of Coco Chanel

On August 19, 1883, in the godforsaken town of Saumur in western France, the girl Gabrielle was born to the day laborer Jeanne Devol and the traveling salesman Albert Chanel. The family lived extremely poorly and, having no home of its own, often moved. After the death of his wife, Albert gave his sons to relatives, and his daughters to a monastery shelter. Gabrielle was 12 at the time. Neither she nor the other children ever saw their father again. Little Chanel could not believe that he had abandoned them. "I'm not an orphan! Dad will come and pick me up soon!”, - this is how the girl answered the ridicule of other pupils of the orphanage.

The inhospitable walls of the orphanage did not break Chanel and did not turn her into a sentimental dreamer. " If you were born without wings, don't stop them from growing.", - Gabrielle once said already in the status of Mademoiselle Coco. At 18, she left the convent. determined to get out of poverty once and for all. The needlework skills learned at the orphanage helped Chanel take the first step on the road to success: she became a seamstress in a ready-made dress shop in the town of Moulins. The work brought her a small income, private orders appeared, but Chanel wanted chic and brilliance. She began to perform in a local cafe, performing unpretentious songs in front of the public: Qui qu`a vu Coco and Ko Ko Ri Ko. Since then, the name Gabriel has been forgotten: everyone began to call Chanel simply Coco. Let's be honest: Coco Chanel was an unimportant artist and performer, it was stupid to even dream of a career as a singer or actress! But the charming brunette was noticed by the right men, and this is exactly what she was striving for.

Man - a short path to success

Chanel accepted the offer of the young Baron Etienne Balsan to become his kept woman. Coco learned horseback riding from Etienne, slept until noon, had coffee with milk and chocolates for breakfast in bed ... The dreamer Coco, left to herself, began to create clothes and accessories for herself that had nothing to do with the fashion of those years. After another love quarrel, Chanel moved to Balsan's Parisian bachelor apartment and opened a hat salon at his expense in 1909.

Chanel decided to “promote” her business on her own. Chanel's small round hats during her walks and outings attracted attention with grace and a complete lack of jewelry. So the first success came - and a new feeling: Coco became close to Etienne's friend, the English playboy Arthur Capel, who was destined to become the biggest and, perhaps, the only love in the life of the great mademoiselle. Arthur introduced Koko into his circle, introduced her to bankers, politicians, financiers. Capel's advice, connections and money helped Chanel open the first boutique in Paris, on Rue Chambon, and a little later, the first branch of her store in Deauville, which in 1919 grew to a full-fledged fashion house, and the price tags on dresses reached 3 thousand francs. Coco got what she dreamed of - fame and a luxurious life. The price of success was the tragic sacrifice of his personal life. Both Etienne and Arthur loved Chanel, but married aristocratic women. The marriage of Arthur Capel was not successful, and he returned to Chanel again and again, but ... On December 22, 1919, Arthur crashed in a car. Chanel was left alone again and, in order to drown out the pain of loss, she plunged headlong into work.

immortal style

In an effort to free fashion from unnecessary luxury, Coco began with hats. The milliner removed the ostrich feathers and velvet from them. And then took up the outerwear. The first collection of women's clothing from Chanel is practical, comfortable and revolutionary in its way. The "sailor suit" for a beach holiday - a vest, wide light trousers, a beret - was sewn from knitwear that was pleasant to the body, which was previously used only for underwear. Chanel also came up with a straight silhouette without a waist, but with a scarf or belt on the hips and a neckline similar to the collar of a men's shirt. So in the arsenal of fashionistas appeared a shemizier dress, or shirt dress.

Chanel was accused of "robbing" the stronger sex and redrawing male English classic style for women. Instead of ruffles, frills, bows, corsets and dresses with bustles, Coco offered shirts and ties, trousers, jackets, jackets, knitted pullovers, leather jockey jackets. In addition, Chanel dared to "bring out" costume jewelry, short haircuts and a tan. Chanel's style culminated in the little black dress created in 1926. It was an outfit from Chanel's childhood: the pupils of the orphanage where she grew up wore black dresses with a small white collar. Impeccable proportions, ascetic simplicity of cut, sophistication of fabric, restrained colors - Coco turned the color of mourning and poverty into a symbol of elegance and taste.

“Fashion goes out of fashion,” Coco said, “style never”

Grand Mademoiselle and mistress

Chanel was surrounded by many famous Russian emigrants: Sergei Diaghilev, Igor Stravinsky (in the summer of 1920 they experienced a short but stormy romance). Chanel won the heart of Grand Duke Dmitry Pavlovich Romanov, nephew of Nicholas II.

Dmitry Romanov later married a wealthy American, but this connection brought Chanel a famous brainchild, which turned into millions in income. Dmitry arranged for Coco, a meeting with a perfumer, a Frenchman of Russian origin, Ernest Bo. Bo, as Chanel intended, created a mixed floral fragrance that no one else had done before. From several options for future perfumes, the customer chose fragrance number five. It is symbolic that Koko considered this figure lucky for herself and showed the new collections to the public only on the fifth day. Thus was born the legendary perfume Chanel No. 5.

Chanel was forty-two when a new aristocratic admirer entered her life. The Duke of Westminster was extravagant and fabulously wealthy. He was crazy about Chanel, but Coco refused the marriage proposal: "There are many duchesses, but only one Coco Chanel!" She did not want to sacrifice the Fashion House for the sake of the title and marriage and remained a great mademoiselle.

But Coco's most mysterious romance is her relationship with Walter Schellenberg, the head of intelligence, S.S. Chanel, volunteered to mediate peace negotiations between the Germans and the Allies, but Operation Fashion Hat failed. After the liberation of France, Koko was expelled from the country for cooperation with the invaders, and the lovers left for Switzerland. Chanel took care of Schellenberg until his death in 1952.

Discipline as an elixir of youth

Coco Chanel argued that the beauty of a woman does not depend on the age and price of the dress, but on the lifestyle, manners, grooming and spiritual harmony: “At twenty your face is given to you by nature, at thirty life molds it, but at fifty you must earn it yourself.” The best way looking good, according to Chanel, is a favorite thing: "Only work gives courage, and the spirit, in turn, takes care of the fate of the body." Not surprisingly, Chanel has always been in excellent professional shape: she presented her last collection when she was over eighty.

After hard work, Koko allowed herself periods of complete idleness in a country house, enjoying fresh air, freedom and loneliness. Chanel enjoyed fishing, planting flowers, taking care of the surrounding dogs, and riding horses. By the way, Mademoiselle was a “lark” and strictly followed the daily routine, taking at least seven to eight hours to sleep: “After a sleepless night, you can’t create anything worthwhile during the day. Going to bed after midnight means not sparing yourself. Personally, after twelve hours nothing interests me at all. Spare yourself for your own sake. Spare your ears, spare your eyes, spare your thoughts. What did you hear after midnight that you thought was more valuable own sleep? This is just what you have heard anyway, and besides, a hundred times ... ". Coco considered alcohol and excesses in food to be the enemies of beauty. Until her old age, she maintained a girlish harmony, preferring a diet of vegetables, fruits, and fish. Chanel's only unhealthy weakness was constant smoking.

The great mademoiselle created the philosophy and image of the new woman: “Fashion is created for several hundred people. I created a style for the whole world."

Text: Alina Krasnova.
Photo: Chanel press materials, archival photos.