Learn how to take beautiful photos. How to take pictures with a SLR camera

  • 30.09.2019

Hello dear readers! With you again, Timur Mustaev. Most likely, you have become the proud owner of a SLR camera and you have a considerable number of questions, the answers to which are too lazy to look for in the manual. Right?

Well, I will take on the heavy burden of a guide to the world of high-quality photography and reveal a few secrets to you.

But still, no matter how lazy you are, be sure to study the manual for your camera in great detail. Believe me, from my experience, from your manual, you will learn a lot of interesting things. At the end of the article, I recommend a video course that will clearly help you deal with your DSLR!

First of all, let's talk about management, without these basics it will be difficult to understand how to take pictures with a SLR camera correctly.

Due to the impressive size of the carcass (body) (the so-called SLR camera without a lens), you should hold the camera a little differently than a digital camera: right hand should be located on the handle, and the left one should support the opposite lower corner.

Camera modes

This position will allow, if necessary, to change the focal length and switch the main modes, which are slightly different on different cameras, as some have the abbreviations “M; A; S; P" are specific to Nikon, others are "M; Av; TV; P", for Canon.

At the initial stage of learning a SLR camera, I strongly do not recommend taking pictures in auto mode, since you will not be able to control the camera in certain shooting conditions, much less learn from this some kind of lesson.

This mode is standard and is often used when it becomes necessary to shoot something quickly without delving into the overall composition of the frame.

Program mode (P)

Better experiment with the program mode "P", which differs from "Auto" by the ability to independently adjust.

ISO - indicates the sensitivity of the matrix to light, the higher its value, the brighter the frame. But it is worth remembering that high ISO is accompanied by the appearance of adverse noise.

The golden mean of sensitivity to light ranges from 100-600 units, well, here again, it all depends on your camera.

Aperture priority mode (A or Av)

The next mode, which received due attention, is “Av” (“A”), the main highlight of which is control over the level of sharpness (DOF). In this mode, you obey, and the rest of the settings are set by the camera itself.

Thanks to it, you can get a beautiful blurred background with the effect when using lenses with a minimum F value, for example, a lens or, depending on which camera you have.

Also, when shooting landscapes or macro, this mode will be very useful, because in order to achieve detail, the aperture must be covered.

Shutter priority mode (S or Tv)

Unlike previous modes, it allows you to control the shutter speed manually, while setting any possible values. The rest of the settings are set automatically by the camera. For most DSLRs, the shutter speed limit is 1/4000 second, in advanced and more expensive ones - 1/8000 second

For example, the common Canon 600d, Nikon D5200, D3100, D3200 have a value from 30 to 1/4000 s.

The Tv/A mode is used for capturing dynamics during sporting events, as well as without using a tripod.

- this is the shutter opening time to let light through to the camera matrix. To get sharp shots, you need to use the fastest shutter speed possible. Long, in turn, is used when it is necessary to capture the movement of an object.

For example, when shooting the flow of water at a slow shutter speed, you can get a beautiful shot with a smooth transition of drops into a jet.

Manual mode (M)

"M", used by professional photographers, usually in studios or other difficult, cramped conditions. It allows you to control all the allowed parameters and expands the possibilities for creating creative photography. However, if you hear from someone: “Shoot only in “M” mode”, run without looking back from this person, he wishes you harm!

  1. First, shooting in M ​​mode, you will spend all your free time adjusting, missing the light in the process.
  2. Secondly, you will take a thousand shots, of which there will be only one successful one - Malevich's black square.

Manual mode opens up big boundaries, but for beginners, this mode is quite difficult. Start with the previous modes and gradually reach M.

Since the rest of the DSLR modes are used extremely rarely, such as macro, portrait, landscape, and so on, both by amateurs and professionals, I will not focus on them too much and move on to the next point.

  • Always check the battery level before taking a photo shoot. Ideally, purchase a spare battery or battery pack.
  • Format the memory card after dumping the photo to the computer. A free flash drive will avoid data corruption and errors, as well as relieve you of the hassle of manually deleting photos when there is not enough space.
  • Check the camera settings, namely the resolution of the pictures. If you are planning further retouching, then shoot in RAW + JPG, if not, then limit yourself to one JPG, preferring L quality.
  • To avoid blurring shots, alternate between handheld and tripod shooting.
  • Pay attention to the horizon line, it should not have blockages and slopes. Many DSLRs are equipped with an auxiliary grid that helps in this situation, it is conditionally superimposed on the picture and is visible on the LCD screen.
  • Do not abuse the autofocus mode, you need to be able to use manual as well, since some lenses simply do not have "auto".
  • Take several shots at the same time, even when shooting static subjects, so you don't miss the best one.
  • Get different ones, they make life quite easy and minimize processing time.
  • Do not be afraid to change the white balance, stop using automatic already.
  • When shooting in winter, be sure to focus on weather conditions, avoid sub-zero temperatures, as temperature changes will lead to condensation, both on the camera body and inside. This is fraught with damage to the electronics, and can lead to a complete malfunction of the equipment. But if, nevertheless, Ostap suffered, before bringing the camera into heat, roll it with a cloth, or do not take it out of the bag upon arrival from the street for two hours.

Here, in fact, are all the main subtleties of shooting on a mirror technique. Practice, and I assure you, a good result will not keep you waiting.

Finally, as promised. Video course « Digital SLR for beginners 2.0". One of the best online courses. Clear practical examples, detailed explanation of the theoretical part. This video course has gained popularity among beginner photographers. I recommend it for study!

All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.

Many beginners, having got a camera, imagine that in the near future they will become a professional photographer. At the same time, there are people who really want to master the art of photography. They are aware that it is not easy to do this, and are actively interested in how to become a professional photographer of people and animals.

Some amateur photographers manage to get into the professional league. To do this, you have to follow the canons observed even by world-famous photographers. Some photographers do not understand the terminology and intricacies of photographic art, but this does not prevent them from achieving huge success. These people have phenomenal talent.

If you're looking to learn how to take high-quality photographs, my tips will help. In the article I will share the secrets of photography.

  • Decide what you want to get, how to learn to photograph professionally. Some strive for the recognition of skill, others are more interested in making money.
  • If you want to do photography, always carry a tool with you - a high-quality and reliable camera. First of all, study the instructions for the device and master the methods of shooting.
  • A photograph is an ordinary picture. Famous people Those involved in painting began their creative activity by copying still lifes, landscapes and portraits. Therefore, at first, reshoot popular works.
  • Take photographs all the time. If you always have your camera with you, take pictures at every turn. Good practice will bring a store of experience. Failed plots should not upset. After a detailed analysis of the errors, strive to improve the result.
  • Constantly improve your skills, participate in photo contests, strive for high awards and honorary pedestals.

You've got your first idea of ​​how to become a professional photographer. A good photographer will be the person for whom photography is the main hobby and purpose of life.

Learn to take professional photos with a DSLR

Buying a SLR camera is not difficult. The market offers professional and semi-professional photography equipment in a wide range of models and prices.

A person who has become the owner of a DSLR has every chance of becoming a master of photography. To do this, you should learn how to learn how to professionally take pictures with a DSLR, explore the capabilities of the device and learn how to use them.

Climbing to the top of glory is within the power of those who know how to connect theoretical knowledge with practical exercises.

  1. ISO. Set your camera's sensitivity to ISO correctly. The quality of a photograph depends on the level of illumination of the objects that are being photographed. If you shoot in a dark room or in the evening, set the indicator to 800. For cloudy weather, four hundred units are enough, and in good lighting conditions, two hundred is sometimes a lot. When using a flash, reduce the ISO to the minimum mark.
  2. white balance . Another important parameter, thanks to which the camera correctly perceives and displays colors. Under the influence of different lighting, natural colors change shade. The light of an incandescent lamp gives the color of the object a yellowish tint. Reducing the influence of lighting is easy - use the settings to make the colors more natural. Practice shooting in different lighting conditions and adjusting this setting.
  3. Diaphragm. A small opening in a lens that controls the flow of light by closing or opening it. To achieve the goal, use the capabilities of the element depending on the conditions. The aperture adjusts the sharpness of the image. With a closed aperture, clear photographs are obtained, equally sharp across the entire surface. When the aperture is open, the focus will stop at a certain place.
  4. Excerpt. Affects the image. The parameter determines the clarity of the photo, static or dynamic. If the subject is moving quickly, such as a dog running, the shutter speed is set as fast as possible to freeze the frame. In low light, the shutter speed does not allow you to take a good picture of a moving object.
  5. Long exposure . The details of the photo are worked out only if a slow shutter speed is used. So it is better to shoot with a tripod, because the camera catches even slight movements during exposure. Shooting moving subjects at slow shutter speeds makes for interesting shots. For example, the result of shooting water with a short shutter speed is well-drawn splashes, and a long shutter speed will make the natural element smooth and silky.
  6. Instructions for the camera . Before practice, be sure to read the instructions for the SLR camera. Each model has certain features and tricks to set up.

Videos training

You've just learned how to become a professional DSLR photographer. At first, take photos by activating the automatic mode. As a result, you do not have to adjust the aperture and adjust the ISO.

Secrets of professional phone photos

Many are of the opinion that you can only take a high-quality photograph with a good camera. The quality of the camera does not always play a decisive role. Take, for example, some great photographer. He will take a great photo with any camera, because the secret of photography is not in technology, but in the intricacies of settings and use.

All mobile phones are equipped with a built-in camera, which many users actively use. Therefore, I will tell you how to learn how to take professional photos on your phone.

According to the masters of photography, in recent times they are increasingly using the camera mobile phone which allows you to take great pictures. You, too, will achieve this result if you follow a few rules.

  • High mobility . The main advantage of photographing on the phone. The photographer can spend time observing and choosing interesting angles. Since there are few settings in the phone, you will have to learn how to feel objects.
  • Scaling . All phones have a zoom function, and many users use it. High-quality photos are obtained very rarely due to digital zoom. If you want to get a high-quality photo, use the legs instead of the function. They will help you get as close to the object as possible.
  • Light sensors . The light sensors that come with phones are getting better every year, but they can't be compared with a SLR camera. The disadvantage is compensated by good lighting of a natural or artificial nature.
  • Composition. Modern mobile phones help photographers with a grid, but you should not forget about the rule of thirds. By practicing skills, learn to feel the edges, breaking which you will make beautiful pictures.
  • Friendship of phone and SLR camera . Sometimes a person goes on vacation or on a trip, and with the help of a mobile phone finds a wonderful shot for the camera. The phone will help out even when it is not possible to use a regular camera.
  • Phone care . Many are kind to cameras, wipe lenses, control the charge of the battery. The above rules apply to a phone with a camera. When going on a photo hunt, make sure that the battery is charged and that there are no fingerprints on the protective glass of the camera.

Video tips

Progress does not stand still, but the camera phone is unable to keep up with the DSLR. However, don't discount it. Just a few years ago, digital soap dishes were popular, but phones quickly squeezed them out of the market. If you are shooting for a personal album or social network, a good phone is enough.

How to photograph people the right way

Portrait is a popular shooting genre. People are photographed by both professionals and beginners who have not had time to gain experience. The high popularity of the portrait is easily explained: everyone wants the photographer to capture his image on paper.

If it is easy for an established master to take such a photo, beginners are interested in how to learn how to photograph people professionally. Once trained, they will be able to photograph wedding anniversaries, birthdays, and holiday events.

  • Respect. If you master the art of creating beautiful portraits, learn to respect people. At first glance, the words may seem pretentious, but you must admit that the photographer will not take a good picture if he is dismissive of his model. A disdainful attitude towards a person does not allow the photographer to penetrate into his soul. As a result, the photographs are insensitive. The model, feeling such an attitude, will behave constrainedly and will never trust a specialist.
  • Observation. Take a good look at the person before taking the picture. So study his characteristic gestures and facial expressions. Observation will help determine how the model reacts to different events. Based on the information received, you can literally achieve the desired emotion with just a few words.
  • Shot composition . Before pressing the shutter button, make sure that there are no unnecessary elements in the field of view of the lens. For a good portrait, one little thing in the frame is enough. If the model is holding a pipe in her hands, it is not necessary to poke her a glass of wine.
  • Experiments . The art of photography welcomes bold experiments that involve changing angles. There are times when the standard camera position is not suitable. For example, if a person has small eyes, hold the camera a little higher. This will highlight the beauty.
  • Angle. If the posing person has certain flaws, good photographer will do everything to hide them. Only in this case, the finished work will bring true joy to the customer. Otherwise, reward only disappointment. For example, complete man do not shoot in profile, otherwise you will focus on a double chin. You will mask the emerging bald spot with a dark background, which will make the head visually darker.

Video tips

How to photograph animals

Every person who has had to photograph animals knows that it is extremely problematic to do this. The resulting shots don't always capture the fun and beauty of the moment.

During the further conversation, you will learn how to learn to photograph animals professionally. Mastering the art of digital photography can take a long time. But in the future you will excellent pictures and make amazing collages.

Close-ups and ISO settings are easy to master. This is enough to take pictures of motionless and sleeping animals. In the case of moving animals, it is difficult to make a good shot.

  1. Accommodation. If you want to take a picture of an animal, try to make it slightly below your gaze in the photo. Otherwise, you will end up in a funny situation. For example, shooting from below will make the animal visually huge. Professional photographers often take eye-to-eye shots, which provide a special effect.
  2. Eyes. Animal eyes are in no way inferior to human ones in terms of beauty. They must be present in the frame. When shooting, focus on the eyes to catch the moment when the puppy or kitten looks at you.
  3. Frame fullness . Shooting is considered the most successful when animals account for 75% of the frame. The frame should not contain unnecessary elements. If you are going to photograph a dog, there should be no more than two additional details in the frame - a pillow, a blanket, or a sofa corner. An additional item in the frame is required. It indicates the actual size of the animal, as a result, the picture will be harmonious.
  4. Background. Pay special attention to the background. Choose a neutral background, without eye-catching colors and sharp outlines.
  5. Flash. Do not use flash as animals are very afraid of sounds and bright flashes. All the little animals are endowed with a lightning-fast reaction, frightened by the flash, they will jerk sharply, which will ruin the frame. In natural light, animals look familiar and impressive.
  6. Character traits. When shooting an animal, try to capture the features of its unsurpassed character. For example, a beloved cat can be playful and affectionate. With the help of a toy, gesture or sound, you can easily evoke the desired emotions in the animal. The frame is just amazing.
  7. Animals in motion . When photographing a moving animal, be sure to leave space in the photo in front of it. As a result, the viewer will have the feeling of a walking animal. Do the same when the animal is looking somewhere. Lack of space in front of the animal will bring uncomfortable sensations.
  8. lighting. There are no special requirements. It is best to create a portrait in conditions of unidirectional bright light illuminating one side of the animal. As a result, the light along with the shadow will provide excellent contrast and fine detail.

Video lessons

You have learned how to become a professional animal photographer. Animal photography welcomes the paparazzi style, where the animal must be caught off guard before being photographed. So get some beautiful and unexpected shots.

Remember, an animal, being in a natural environment, better demonstrates its nature. By taking these pictures, you can earn. You may be able to build a career as a photographer by being a staff member of some animal magazine.

How to photograph objects

It seemed that in order to take a photo, it was enough to take a camera, look into the lens and press a button. This opinion is shared by beginners who embark on the path of learning photography.

They find it difficult to say why the work of some photographers causes delight, while others - a smile and bewilderment. It's about the photography technique used and the ability to choose a plot.

Continuing the topic of conversation, consider how to learn to photograph objects professionally. The manual will not make you a professional, but learn how to take good photos for a family album.

  • Constant practice . If you want to reach your goal, keep practicing. Carry your favorite camera with you. It is impossible to predict when once again you will find a good shot. If you don't have a camera, you won't take a picture. Really good stories are rare.
  • Pay attention to different things . If familiar landscapes and boring interiors do not contribute to the birth of new ideas, look at them from the other side. For example, the rays of the setting sun will color the flower in other shades.
  • Experiment with settings, modes and angles . Do not photograph from the same position and height. Bend over, squat, and look at surrounding objects upside down more often. True, in the latter case, you will need to master the handstand.
  • Learn new things and seek useful information . Reading books, viewing albums, visiting thematic sites and exhibitions, communicating with professionals will help. The received material is immediately consolidated, applying new knowledge in practice.
  • Learn to take criticism . In a few photography lessons, becoming a genius is unrealistic. During practice, you will make mistakes and make rash actions. Treat the criticism that accompanies newcomers favorably. By looking for flaws in your work and carefully analyzing, change the situation.
  • Avoid disharmony . During framing, avoid disharmony between the elements of the photograph. Otherwise, one part of the picture will become thematically and visually outweigh. Arrange the objects in the picture correctly and harmoniously.
  • Follow the golden ratio . During shooting, conditionally divide the frame into nine equal parts using horizontal and vertical lines. Place the main elements of the frame at the intersection of lines.
  • Use Geometric Shapes . When composing a shot, use the geometric shapes visible to the naked eye that make up the subjects. Consider the location of the object and the background, on which there should be no unnecessary elements.
  • Don't Forget Vertical Format . To shoot tall buildings and vertical objects, use the vertical format. Horizontal shooting is better for landscapes.
  • Take Contrasting Shots . The objects you shoot should not blend into the background. It is recommended to shoot dark objects against a light background, and light objects against a dark one.

Applying the acquired knowledge in practice, you will get successful pictures of high-rise buildings, architectural monuments and other objects. The skills will come in handy when traveling and traveling. As a result, you will make a wonderful album that will not let you forget the bright and impressive moments of your active life.

Have you ever been scared by the thought of taking pictures of other people? Believe it or not, it is enough to overcome the uncertainty and people will become the easiest subject to take photos. Why is that? Imagine that you are taking landscape photos. Most of us do not live in areas with breathtaking views. This means that you need to go somewhere for the picture. Upon arrival at the place, if the weather and lighting are not suitable, you can simply turn around and go home.

However, when shooting people, you have complete control. All the elements of a good photo are in your hands. You are surrounded by potential subjects: friends, relatives, and even passers-by, if you have the courage to ask them. Each potential subject is unique. If the lighting is bad, you can fix it by moving to another location or using a flash. You can ask the person to wear different clothes or do something unusual. The only limit is your imagination.

This is the key to great people photography - imagination. Have fun and if you don't know much about your camera settings just yet, just set it to automatic mode (most cameras have a dedicated mode). Portrait), concentrating on getting beautiful photos. Next I will talk about the technical details.

One of better ways improve your skills - learn from professionals. Here are some tips to help you learn to think like a pro and get the right mindset for stunning portraits.

1. Create an association with the subject

This is the most important skill! Master it and you are already halfway to becoming a professional photographer. A good tip, especially for beginners, is to shoot a friend who loves to pose for the camera. Your job as a photographer is to help the person relax and have fun. If you succeed, then the result will be great pictures.

Take pictures of family and friends. Communication between you will help to get an excellent result. Snapshot: Unsplash.

If you need a model, your boyfriend or girlfriend can be a great option.

2. Pick the right lens

The focal length of a lens is very important. You need to understand the nature of your equipment and know how to use it to your advantage. The good news is that if you have a digital camera with a kit lens (usually 18-55mm focal length), then this is already a great tool for capturing people. Just set to 55mm and go. Instead of using zoom, change your position. This way you will learn the characteristics of the focal length with which you are working.

If you want the best, Canon and Nikon have made cheap 50mm f/1.8 lenses that are perfect for portraits; a wider aperture blurs the background better.

Even with wide-angle lenses, you can get great portraits. Snapshot: Unsplash.

Also don't ignore the wide end of your kit lens. Documentary photographers and photojournalists love wide-angle lenses because they force you to get closer to your subject. The pictures are intimate due to the close proximity of the photographer. Wide angle lenses are also good for showing the subject along with the surroundings. This is another style of portrait photography.

Don't come close too much close if you use a wide angle. In this case, facial features will be distorted and the result will be unsatisfactory.

3. Play with different lights

The best lighting for portraits may not be at the time you think it is. Cloudy skies and late afternoon sun are good. Direct sunlight is not good - it creates harsh shadows on faces and makes people squint. Backlighting is a delightful option, but beware of glare. You will also need a reflector or flash to direct the light onto the subject's face. Window lighting works well for indoors, but again you'll need a reflector to illuminate the shadowed side of the model's face.

What is a reflector? This is any object that reflects light, directing it to the subject and softening the shadows. You can buy custom reflectors from manufacturers like Lastolite, or you can make your own from a large piece of white cardboard or paper. Photographers need reflectors because the light available is rarely perfect. And with their help, you can take control of the world.

4. Learn to use camera settings

To take good pictures, you need to be able to control your camera. Do not leave automatic mode. Learn how shutter speed, aperture and ISO affect the look of your shot.

The next time you're shooting, try using Aperture Priority by setting it to the widest possible setting. Thanks to this, you will get a great blurred background. If the day is sunny, try ISO 100. If it's cloudy, try ISO 400. The shutter speed will be set automatically.

Learn how to use your camera properly to get similar photos. Snapshot: Unsplash.

Always shoot in RAW format. It provides the most post-processing options.

5. Avoid "posing"

You can learn a lot about posing by studying photos and fashion magazines. Don't get carried away though - you can often get better results by asking the person to fool around on camera. Ask him to relax and behave naturally. Then you will get photos full of life.

Even unusual poses can work. Snapshot: Unsplash.

6. Play with movement

Turn on the creative approach. Ask the person to stand straight while others move. Place your camera on a tripod for best results.

Don't take the same picture over and over again. Play with movement or different elements like windows. Snapshot: Unsplash.

7. Conclude the Model Release

If you plan to sell photographs, it is worth signing a signed model release. This is a simple document that confirms the permission of the model to sell photos with her.

In general, a photo posted on a website or in a magazine does not require a model release, as it is considered editorial use (unless you are defaming the subject, of course). If you plan to sell the photo for use in advertising or other promotional material, it's best to take care of it.

If you want to sell your shots, don't forget about the model release. Snapshot: Unsplash.

Learn about the laws of your country. Some countries, especially in Europe, have strict privacy laws that govern the use of captured images. If in doubt, sign the release. It's better to have one and sell photos with the model's permission than not to have one.

In this topic, I propose to discuss how to properly photograph on a digital, and not only, camera.

First, let's make a block for beginners, so to speak, who just bought a camera with manual settings. Later we will add a block for advanced amateurs. Separate genres of shooting, as, for example, I did a description about panoramas, can be distinguished by separate topics.

So you bought an advanced camera, no matter what brand and what size, it is important that it has the possibility of manual and semi-automatic settings. How to get photos so that the quality pleases you?

Consider the main problems:

1. Technical settings of the camera. Exposure, exposure compensation, focusing.

2. What focal lengths to photograph.

3. What is depth of field and with what aperture / shutter speed what to shoot.

4. Fundamentals of composition in photography.

5. Flash photography.

6. Histogram of what and why.

7. Taking pictures from a tripod.

0 . To begin with, be sure to study the instructions for the camera, half of the questions on how to do this or that lie in the instructions for the camera.

1 . So, on modern cameras of an advanced and higher level, as a rule, there are quite a lot of photographing modes, this is a bunch of all kinds of software options, full automatic - "green zone", programmable automatic, where something can be changed - P, Aperture priority - A, shutter speed priority - T and manual settings - M.

For most shootings, photographers use A, T, and M modes. Moreover, as a rule, it is in this sequence that they are used frequently.

Why is that? Because as a rule we are interested in the character of the image in the first place, and it depends on the aperture to the greatest extent.

Aperture priority mode as I wrote it is used in most cases, such as photographing landscapes, portraits, objects, “I was here”, etc. In this mode, the user selects the aperture and the shutter speed is set automatically.

Shutter priority mode used to photograph motion, such as sports, cars in motion, fountains and waterfalls, etc.

Manual mode usually used for staged shooting with a thoughtful approach or when shooting with flash.

Also on advanced devices there is an exposure metering mode, for starters, let's decide what it is in general.

exposition this is a combination of three parameters in the camera: shutter speed, aperture and ISO - i.e. sensitivity.

those. they form like a triangle

As you can see here, increasing the value of any of these parameters leads to an increase in undesirable effects.

Excerpt- this is the time when the camera's matrix is ​​exposed to light, the larger it is, the smoother you need to hold the camera, otherwise everything will be blurry. It is usually measured in fractions of a second, or in seconds. 1/125, for example, means that the matrix will be illuminated for 1/125 second, i.e. 0.004 seconds. This shutter speed is shorter than 1/2, i.e. half a second, for example.

Diaphragm is how much light passes through the lens. The more open the aperture, the smaller the depth of field, what is it we will consider below. The value is relative, so just 2, 4, 5.6, etc. The higher the value, the less light passes to the matrix.

Sensitivity or ISO- how receptive the matrix is ​​to light, in fact, not quite so, but we will assume that it is. The higher the ISO, the more noise appears in the image, other things being equal, i.e. at ISO 6400 there is an order of magnitude more noise than at ISO 200.

The exposure itself, being a combination of these three parameters, is responsible for how dark or light the picture will be. When it's dark in the frame, it's called underexposure, when it's too light, it's called overexposure.

The automatic exposure detection in the camera works on a medium gray value, because if there is a lot of dark in the frame, it will try to make it all gray, and if there is a lot of white, it will also turn gray. What to do? Nao take advantage exposure compensation, i.e. you kind of tell the camera that there is a lot of dark on the frame by setting the exposure compensation to minus or a lot of light, setting the exposure compensation to plus.

For example, shooting in winter, a lot of snow, bright sun, and the cards are gray ... this camera just doesn’t know that snow is white, you had to set the exposure compensation to plus 1 or even plus 2, and the snow will turn white, the same thing if you are photographing, for example, a black car, which suddenly turns gray. Only here the exposure compensation had to be turned to minus. How to turn it depends on the camera, see the instructions.

Now let's move on to metering modes - as a rule there are several of them. It is usually recommended to use either matrix metering or center-weighted, the algorithms for their operation are somewhat different, so read the instructions.

Focusing is to focus on the right subject. Cameras that are simpler have one focus point, those that are more difficult have more of them, professional dozens. Now for the fun part, it's usually worth using only ONE focus point. For on the machine, for example, he will grab, for example, an object closest to you, instead of the face of his beloved. So we leave the focusing point ONE and in the center. she is usually the most sensitive. We press the shutter button, the camera focuses where we need it and not where it wanted to, and then reframe without releasing the button to the frame we need. After that, we wait for the descent. we smoothly squeeze it, as we shoot from a weapon, there is no need to pull and there is no need to press, we just smoothly squeeze it to the end.

By the way, how to hold the camera? It is correct to hold it like this - the right hand grips from the side, the index finger is on the trigger, the left hand holds the camera from below! Not from the side, but from below! In this case, the fingers lie on the zoom ring of the lens, if it is zoomed of course.

Something like that:

Those. the hand below holds him, and not the hand that presses the trigger holds him. Left hand it is better to press it to the body, hold your breath a little at the time of the descent, the legs are in a comfortable position, as a rule, this is the left leg a little forward, the right one a little back and across. In general, almost like when shooting) The better you fix the camera, the clearer your picture will be!

2 . Now let's move on to focal lengths, for convenience we will bring them to film measurements. This is a common starting point. To begin with, let's define what it is in general.

Focal length is the distance from the center of the optical system (in the simplest case, the lens) to the point where the rays converge. The plane parallel to the lens axis and passing through the focal point is the focal plane. What is the point? The fact is that the longer the focal length, the smaller the viewing angle is included. Well, as a simple example, a keyhole, the farther you are from it, the less you see. It's the same here. BUT, on the other hand, on the camera, the smaller the angle, the larger the same object turns out, since it already falls on the entire frame, and not on its part. Based on all this, the following picture emerges:

now further, the increase in this case still depends on the size of the matrix, the larger it is, the smaller the increase. Therefore, to calculate the focal length for your system, if it is not a full-frame system, the ratio of the size of your matrix to full-frame, the so-called crop factor, is the ratio. For most Canon DSLRs, this is 1.6, for Nikon and Sony 1.5. Well, if for example 17-55 is written on the lens, then multiplying la canon by 1.6 we get that on a full-frame matrix this corresponds to 27-88 mm. For soap dishes, two parameters are often written - the focal length of the lens and the focal length of the lens, reduced to 35mm, i.e. to the full frame, for example, the lens says 6.0 - 22.5 and the instructions have a phrase about "Focal length (35 mm equivalent) 28 - 106.40 mm", from here you can calculate that the crop factor will be equal to 28/6 = 4.7 = 106.4/22.5 approximately all of course.

Well, consider for 35 mm the most commonly used focal lengths:

Architecture - 24mm and up

Landscape - 24mm and more

in both versions it is possible and even wider

Photograph of a person in full height- 70-90 mm

Photograph of a person's face - 80-135 mm

Photographing birds and animals 70-600 mm and larger, such as tigers and lions)

Macro - 50-200

Why exactly?

Everything is very simple - with landscapes everything is clear enough to fit.

It’s also clear with animals and birds, you won’t get closer, you have to get closer.

Man - that is not clear to everyone, but in fact everything is simple, distortion. It's all about distortion. By the way, it’s also better to shoot cars in the same range as people, if you don’t need special effects. The wider the angle, the more distortion in the photo, the farther the background seems to be than it is, i.e. for example, the nose will be large and the ears will be small, because the nose is much closer to the lens than the ears for a wide-angle portrait, because you have to shoot almost point-blank. BUT it also has its own features, for example, photographing your beloved at a wide angle from bottom to top, almost from the floor, you will make her visually much higher, and her legs will be long) But if it’s the other way around, then it’s better not to show her a photo. especially if there are heavy dishes nearby. Cars can also be photographed at a wide angle, quite interesting things can turn out.

Focused on the person you need on eye closest to you. This is due to the peculiarity of perception, the eye must be clear.

3. Now diaphragm. We have decided that we are shooting in aperture priority, i.e. the wheel selects mode A or Av depends on the fotik.

The optics are built on such principles that, as a rule, it is sharper at f-stops of 5.6 - 8.0. At more open apertures, blurring from optics begins (it is especially noticeable on budget lenses), at more closed ones, i.e. for example, 16 and above begins blurring on the matrix due to light diffraction. We'll skip that for now, but just trust it. There is such a rule that the smaller the size of the matrix, the smaller the aperture value without loss of sharpness on the matrix. Those. for a DSLR, this parameter is around 8, for a full-length DSLR it can even be 16, but a soap box, even at 2.8, can start to blur already on the matrix, especially if there are a lot of pixels, so very multi-pixel matrices are a purely commercial move, what the hell are they not needed, especially in soap dishes. 10-12 megapixels for a soap dish is already overkill) SLRs crop of the order of 24 edges.

Therefore, in most cases, set the Av mode, aperture from 5.6 to 8.0 and shoot. The shutter speed will be selected automatically. For each specific lens model, this parameter varies. If you have a kit lens, then the maximum sharpness value reaches approximately 7.1. The better the lens, the sharper it is at a wider aperture. I'll post the charts later for an example.

ISO- for daylight we set as little as possible, for DSLRs it is 100 or 200. There is not much difference. From 400 to 800 is quite tolerable, it may be required, for example, in the shade or in the evening, when there is nowhere to open the aperture.

Exposure - it must be monitored so that there are no smears. How to identify potential lubrication? It is generally considered that if the focal length f mm for full frame, then the shutter speed should be no longer than 1/f. For example, you have a canon 1100D crop, which has a crop factor of 1.6. You are photographing at a zoom of 50 mm, which means that your shutter speed should not be longer than 1 / (1.6 * 50) = 1/80, i.e. 1/125, 1/250, 1/500 is ok. 1/60 - as lucky, and 1/30 will most likely be a grease.

If it’s dark, then we first try to open the aperture, then if there’s nowhere else, we increase the ISO to acceptable values ​​\u200b\u200b(depending on the camera) and if it’s completely PPC, then we try to shoot like that, freezing and using the self-timer with a timer delay. So there is less shuddering and less camera movement. Or use a tripod.

Shooting with shutter priority- here, as a rule, movement is removed and depends on what we want to show. For example - we want to freeze a person in the air while jumping, set the shutter speed to no longer than 1/500, the aperture is selected by itself. On the contrary, we want to blur an object in motion - well, for example, a car, set the shutter speed to 1/60, it will blur ... We want to blur the water so that it is smooth and soft - shutter speed is a couple of seconds

Car with wiring 1/30

Car lights in the city like 1/2

More about the aperture: the aperture determines the depth of field of the imaged space, i.e. IPIG for short. What it is? Very conditional and approximate, literally on the fingers: this is the volume that will be depicted sharply in the photo, everything outside will be blurred. Those. For example, we photograph a person against the backdrop of, say, a park. If we open the aperture as wide as possible, yes, our lens allows us to open, say, up to 1.4. Then the entire background will be blurry, and the foreground too. Moreover, even one eye will be sharp, and the second will begin to blur, because. the depth of field zone is very small. But if we hold down to 16, say, then the flu zone will be larger and the background will be sharp. Those. aperture, we still control how sharp objects at different distances in the frame will be. What else affects IPIG? Matrix size. The smaller the matrix, the greater the depth of field. By the way, this is the answer why there is no focus on mobile phones, for example. The matrix is ​​so small, and the aperture is so weak that the depth of field is very large, almost from boots to the horizon. And you can't get the blurred background effect. In general, it’s very rough and primitive, do you want to blur the background? Maximum magnification on the lens and maximum open aperture. We want to increase the depth of field so that everything is sharp, then we set a larger aperture and a smaller zoom. For example, a landscape - 16 aperture and a focal length of 24 - focus on an object 3 meters away from us and get a sharp image from 1.5 meters to the horizon. We shoot the wife so that the background is blurred beautifully. opposite the translucent leaves, set the maximum zoom to 135 mm equivalent and open the aperture to 2.0, for example, the wife is 4 meters from us, we get the borders of a sharp image of 3.95 4.06, i.e. only 10 cm. The ears will no longer be sharp.

There is an excellent depth of field calculator - http://www.vladimirmedvedev.com/calc.html

4 . The basics of composition, the first and most common mistake is the location of objects in the center, right, exactly and clearly. You can't do that!

There is a rule of "golden section"

etc. those. it is desirable to place the objects of shooting on these lines, for example, the eyes of a person on the top line, the horizon line either on the top line or on the bottom, etc. no need to make a horizon line in the center. if, for example, this is not a reflection of a building or a tree in the water, you don’t need to shove your face into the center, move it a little to the side and up.

When photographing people, leave a place where the eye is directed, it is not necessary that it rests on the edge of the frame, if there is a car, then leave a place for it in the direction of travel, etc.

Try to balance the photo, i.e. if there is something massive in one part, then there must be something in the other, otherwise it will outweigh it.

Try to play with colors, a photo is built well on contrasts, old new, red blue, etc.

http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/421051/2664247.jpg

http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/421051/2669157.jpg

You can see how to crop when photographing people here:

How not to here:

5 . Many flashes now operate in automatic metering mode, such as ETTL, for them it is best to do so. We set the mode M if there is not enough light, well, for example, in an apartment, or Av if there is enough and you just need to highlight the shadows, and shoot. In M mode, we set the aperture we need, 5.6, for example, and the shutter speed so that there is no blur, depends on the focal length, well, 1/125, for example (the shortest one that can be set depends on the camera and the flash (high-speed synchronization)) and shoot. The flash itself will prepuff and determine how much power you need to puff. If anyone is interested, I will describe in detail later)

6 . Histogram of what and why.

The histogram shows you how much light, dark, and midtones you have in your photo. Those. this can be said as a “graphic equalizer” on the radio))) Only instead of frequencies, the number of bright and dark pixels is shown. Accordingly, it is possible to determine by it a dark picture came out or not. On many fotiks this case is present. So if the histogram is shifted strongly to the right, then the photo is dark, if it is strongly to the left, then it is light, if it is in the middle, then it is medium gray. We must try to make it correspond to reality and not go beyond the boundaries. Those. if you see white snow in front of you, and the histogram shows that the maximum pixels are colored in average colors, then the photo will be gray. We correct the exposure, shoot, we see that the histogram has moved to the left - the photo is ok. We see that it has moved so that it seems to be cut off, which means that part of the sections will be knocked out in White color. There is another option to view the histogram by channels, i.e. by flowers. So, for example, a bright red flower can knock out the red color, and instead of tones, you have it like this

http://album.foto.ru:8080/photos/or/421051/2664240.jpg

there will be bright red petals, as if a child painted everything with a brush with one color.

Here is an example of a histogram on a photo

You can see both the frame and the histogram. According to it, we can say that: a lot of light and a lot of dark, there are almost no medium-bright objects, dark areas can be knocked out in black, because the histogram is sharply cut off on the right.

7 . Photographing from a tripod.

It is necessary to take pictures from a tripod either with a delayed release or from the remote control. Because by pressing the button with your hands, you will shake the tripod, this is clearly visible if there is a “live picture” mode with maximum magnification. So we set the descent timer to 10 seconds, press it and do not touch the tripod. It is advisable to stomp nearby and not jump)

Probably, every novice photographer, seriously passionate about his work, sooner or later thinks about buying a SLR camera. However, do not think that the acquisition of a “SLR” alone is enough to start creating masterpieces.

Of course, most DSLRs come with decent auto settings to take decent amateur shots, but it's much more fun to use your camera to its full potential. And he, believe me, can do a lot - you just need to learn how to use it correctly.

So, let's start talking about how to take pictures with a SLR camera.

Focus and Depth of Field

Surely, looking at the work of professional photographers on the Internet or in magazines, you paid attention to the difference in sharpness between the foreground and background. The main subject of the picture looks sharp and clear, while the background is blurred.

It is almost impossible to achieve such an effect with an amateur camera, and this is due to the smaller size of the matrix. The sharpness of such images is evenly distributed over the entire screen, that is, all the details have approximately the same clarity.

This is by no means a bad thing, and is great for shooting landscapes or architecture, but for portraits, a well-detailed background will distract from the main subject, and the overall picture will look flat.

The reflex camera, having a large matrix size, allows you to adjust the depth of field.

Depth of field of the depicted space (DOF)- the range between the front and back borders of the sharp area in the photograph, that is, exactly the part of the image that the photographer highlights in the picture.

What affects the IPIG and how to learn to manage it? One such factor is focal length. Focusing - aiming the lens at the object, providing it with maximum sharpness. SLR cameras have several focus modes, from which you have to choose the most suitable one for specific shooting conditions. Let's consider each separately.

  • Single autofocusthe most popular and convenient mode in static conditions, in which focusing is carried out, as mentioned above, by half-pressing the shutter button. Its undoubted advantage is the ability to change the position of the camera at your discretion without lifting your finger from the button. The object you selected will remain in focus. The disadvantage of the mode is the delay, which is created by the need to refocus on the object each time.
  • Continuous autofocusmode suitable for shooting moving subjects. The focus moves at the same time as the subject, and you don't have to refocus every time. Of course, this mode has a number of errors: due to the change in speed and distance, the device does not always manage to focus in the right way, and not every frame will be successful. However, the chances of taking at least a few good shots are also quite high.
  • Mixed autofocusa combination of the first two options. When it is activated, the camera shoots in the first mode exactly until the moment when the object starts moving, and then automatically switches to the second one. This shooting mode is great for beginners as the camera takes care of focusing issues, leaving the photographer free to focus on composition and other factors.

Learn how to get rid of the first steps in your career and your path will be easier.

Always try to develop and improve. In addition to practice, theory will also be useful: a large selection of photo sites for photographers.

For high-quality portrait work, you need good light. You can learn how to make a softbox with your own hands at this address:

Shutter speed and aperture

The second factor that affects depth of field is aperture value.

The aperture controls the amount of sunlight that enters the lens by opening and closing the shutters of the lens aperture. The more open the sash, the more light it lets in. It is with its help that you can distribute the sharpness in the picture and achieve the creative effect you need.

You need to remember a simple ratio:

the smaller the diaphragm opening, the greater the depth of field.

If the aperture is closed, the sharpness is evenly distributed throughout the frame. An open aperture just makes it possible to blur the background or other not so significant objects, leaving sharp only what you want to focus your camera on.

Excerpt- the period of time during which the shutter is open. Thus, the number of light rays that have ripened to pass inside depends on the duration of this gap. Of course, this affects the look of your image in a very direct way. The longer the shutter speed, the more "blurred" the objects will be. A short shutter speed, on the contrary, makes them static.

With stable lighting, shutter speed and aperture are directly proportional to each other: the more open the aperture, the faster the shutter speed - and vice versa. Why this is so is not difficult to guess. Both of these affect the amount of light needed for your shot. If the aperture is wide open, the amount of light is already sufficient and a slow shutter speed is not required.

Light sensitivity

Light sensitivity (ISO)- the susceptibility of the matrix to light during the opening of the diaphragm.

The ISO value also does not have to be set by yourself - you can use the automatic mode, in which the camera will pick it up itself. But in order to understand what ISO is and what it affects, it's still better to take at least a few frames, raising and lowering ISO and comparing the results.

A high or maximum value allows you to take pictures in low light conditions, thus being an alternative to flash. This will be ideal for you in situations where flash photography is prohibited, such as at concerts or other official events.

Also, ISO will help you out in a situation where a wide open aperture and a slow shutter speed result in a too dark image. But experimenting with ISO, you will notice pretty quickly that increasing its value also increases the amount of noise in the frame. This is an inevitable effect, but it can be smoothed out, for example, using graphic editors.

Shooting modes

The SLR camera has a wide range of shooting modes, which can be divided into manual and automatic. The latter roughly correspond to similar modes on an amateur camera: they are called "Sport", "Landscape", "Night portrait", etc.

When you select this mode, the camera automatically selects the settings necessary for the given conditions, and you no longer need to worry about anything. This is quite convenient, and photos taken in such modes may well be very successful. And yet, if you set the SLR camera to manual settings, then you are provided with creative scope, and a person who plans to take photography seriously needs to be familiar with them.

So what are manual shooting modes are at our disposal?

  • P (programmed)- a mode similar to AUTO, but leaving more room for independent action. Using it, you can independently change the ISO and white balance, as well as adjust the shutter speed and aperture automatically set by the camera. All other settings, as in automatic mode, the caring camera will select itself.
  • Av(aperture)- a mode that allows you to set the aperture value at your discretion, without worrying about the shutter speed - the camera will select it on its own. Great for portraits and other experiments with depth of field.
  • S(shutter)- in contrast to the previous option, this is the shutter priority mode. It is easy to guess that in this case the camera will automatically set the aperture. Suitable for shooting moving and dynamic subjects.
  • M (manual)- a truly manual mode, in which the camera no longer interferes at all. Here all the settings: aperture, shutter speed, and ISO are up to you. Using this mode, you can give yourself complete creative freedom and try out a wide variety of combinations in unusual shooting conditions. Of course, it is worth using this mode when you really understand the settings of your camera and approach the matter with knowledge.

In everyday, natural shooting the best and easiest way is to use Av mode. It is the most convenient for controlling the depth of field and allows you to fully surrender to the artistic process of creating the best composition.

Flash

Built-in flash- A true assistant when shooting in low light conditions. But she, like other features of a SLR camera, needs to be used wisely. If handled incorrectly, there is a high probability of spoiling the frame by illuminating it. Here are some tips to help you avoid this:

  • Use manual flash output, the value of which can be reduced when receiving too bright frames.
  • Try switch the camera to automatic mode "Night shooting". Unlike AUTO, this mode “softens up” the flash action and diffuses the light a little around the subject, rather than focusing only on it.
  • Experiment with light scattering(how to do it we wrote here). To do this, you can use a white cloth, paper, or any other material that will need to be fixed before the flash. But you should not use materials dyed in other colors for this purpose - they can give the skin the wrong tone and generally have a bad effect on the picture.
  • Use your camera's modes discussed above - ISO, aperture and shutter speed. Having tried different variants, you will be able to find exactly the one in which your pictures will be successful.

white balance

The matrix of the camera is more sensitive than the human eye and sensitively perceives color temperature. You have probably seen pictures with strange lighting effects: faces in them can turn out to be blue, green, orange. This often happens when shooting indoors with incandescent lighting. Setting the white balance on your camera will help correct the situation.

Yes, you certainly may use automatic tuning (AWB), but then there is still the risk of error. The best way is to “tell” the camera what color is white, which can be done using manual mode (MWB). First you need to select the manual white balance setting in the menu of your camera.

After that, it is enough to take any white object, for example, a sheet of paper, take a picture of it, and fix the color as correct. The algorithm may differ depending on the model of your camera, but if you encounter difficulties, the instructions will help you out.

Choose a SLR camera to start

When choosing photography equipment to start, a novice photographer should be aware of some important details, which you should definitely pay attention to when choosing a SLR camera. It is clear that you should not start working on expensive equipment. And not only because of the high price, but primarily because, without knowing the basics, it will not only be difficult, but often impossible, to master the functions of a “fancy” camera. Inexpensive cameras have a lot of tips, automatic modes, which are simply necessary at the start.

You should especially understand the resolution of the matrix. These are exactly the pixels that are indicated in the main characteristics and on the camera body. But at the same time, remember that for beginners it is better to choose a “SLR” with crop matrices.

If you're serious about taking photographs, choose a technique with manual settings. In the future, this technique will give you good experience and the chance of great opportunities in this field of activity. And it is better to choose the camera itself from the list of the most recommended SLR models for beginners, which are produced by well-known world manufacturers. Don't hesitate to reach out to those who are familiar with photography for a long time and will help you in choosing the right camera to start with.

If the abundance of difficult terms did not scare you, and you are still full of enthusiasm, ready to work and improve, go ahead! Several simple tips help you on your creative journey:

  • In order to learn how to professionally photograph with a DSLR, constant practice required. Try to take your camera with you wherever you go, and do not miss the opportunity to take a good picture. Develop your artistic mind! As a photographer, you need to be able to build the right composition mentally, cut off interesting shots from ordinary ones, be able to notice what another would not pay attention to.
  • Learn the modes of your camera, try different combinations. Do not be afraid to squat, take various positions in search of the best angle. So you will greatly increase your chances of getting the desired result!
  • Draw conclusions based on the finished material. Mark your mistakes - you can even have a special notebook for this - and try to avoid them in the future.
  • View the work of famous photographers. The more time you spend on this, the more ideas you will get and draw the right conclusions. On the early stages there is nothing shameful in imitating one of the professionals and copying their work. Over time, you will certainly develop your own style, but at first you should not neglect the experience of others.
  • Read relevant literature, watch video tutorials, attend courses, communicate with professional photographers. You need to be fluent in the technical side of the photography process, this will play into your hands. You will not notice how much more confident you will be in handling the camera.

The DSLR is your ticket to the world of professional photography. By working, experimenting, acquiring additional equipment - such as lenses and flashes - you can achieve the most amazing results. We hope that the information on how to learn how to use a SLR camera will be useful to you.

Make the most of your camera and let it become your reliable friend and assistant in the implementation of your ideas!