Lubyanskaya Square. Complete history of Lubyanka Square

Today on our calendars is Saturday, October 21, 2017, which means that on the First Channel you can watch intellectual game"Who want to be a millionaire?". All answers in the game, as well as a text review of today's game, can be found on the Sprint-Answer website in the same heading "Telegame".

The question about Lubyanka Square in Moscow was the eleventh in a row for the third pair of players, because today's game consisted of three parts. In the last part of the program played: Sati Casanova and Andrey Grigoriev-Apollonov. This was the penultimate question for the players.

What was located in the middle of Lubyanka Square before the installation of a monument to Dzerzhinsky there?

Lubyanka Square (including the former Vladimir Gates, 1926-1990 - Dzerzhinsky Square) - a square in the center of Moscow, not far from Red Square, located between Theater Passage, Nikolskaya Street, Novaya Square, Lubyansky Passage, Myasnitskaya Street, Bolshaya Lubyanka Street and Pushechnaya Street.
The name of the 19th century was given after the area Lubyanka, which, in turn, was named after Lubyanitsa, a district of Veliky Novgorod.
In 1926, it was renamed Dzerzhinsky Square, in honor of Felix Dzerzhinsky, the founder of the Cheka, the Soviet state security service, who died in the summer of that year.
In 1835, a fountain by Ivan Vitali was built in the center of the square. The fountain served as a water intake basin, where water was supplied drinking water from the Mytishchi water pipeline.
In 1927, Lubyanskaya Square was renamed Dzerzhinsky Square.
In 1934, the Vitali fountain was dismantled and moved to the courtyard of the Alexandria Palace (where the Presidium of the Russian Academy of Sciences is now located) in the Neskuchny Garden. Currently not working.

• fountain
• monument to General Skobelev
• flower bed
• church

The correct answer is highlighted in blue and bold.

We continue our regular column - and today we are looking at a detailed photograph of Lubyanka Square, approximately 1898. High resolution photos can be downloaded from the link above.

So what does the old photograph of Lubyanka tell us about —>

Before the revolution, Lubyanskaya Square was one of the most beautiful places in Moscow. The classic view of the Kitaigorodskaya wall with two towers, the chapel of St. Panteleimon and the descending Teatralny Proyezd constantly found its way into paintings and series of postcards.

Visiting cards of Lubyanka Square until the 1930s. On the left is the Vladimirskaya tower in Kitay-Gorod. Initially, when built by the Italians in the 1530s, the towers of Kitay-gorod were flat. Add-ons with green roofs-tents appeared only in the second half of the 17th century, like the Kremlin. To the right of the tower there is a breaking gate to Nikolskaya Street, they were “broken” only in the 18th century, after the fortress had lost its defensive significance. Prior to that, Kitai-Gorod got through the gate in the tower itself. Usually the gate passage inside the tower had a knee - in the plan in the shape of the letter G, so that it would be more difficult for enemies to overcome the defense. To the right is an unnamed corner tower. Initially, there were no teeth on it, they appeared only in the 19th century, during the restoration of Moscow after the fire of 1812. They wanted to make the Kitaigorod wall look like the Kremlin wall.

Behind the gate you can see the huge chapel of St. Panteleimon. Yes, this is not a church, but a chapel, it was the largest in Moscow. It was built by the architect Kaminsky in 1883. All this was mercilessly demolished in 1934, during the construction of the first subway line. Now the area is unrecognizable. The place of the chapel is now an empty space, the Nautilus shopping center stands on the site of the house next to the chapel.

View of Teatralny Proezd. To the right is a jagged section of the Kitaygorod wall, where the roadway is now. A blind tower is visible, the gates of which were laid back in the 18th century. Behind it you can see the edge of the Chelyshi hotel, which stood on the site of the Metropol. And a larger building opposite, on the site of the Moscow Hotel. To the right in the distance - Okhotny Ryad and facade Nobility Assembly, which was rebuilt at the beginning of the twentieth century, and after the revolution turned into the House of Unions. And close to the right is the corner of the Lubyanka passage, on the site of which now stands Child's world.

Teatralny proezd was one of the busiest streets in Moscow, sometimes there were even traffic jams from carriages and spans.

In the middle of the square stood a water-folding fountain of 1834, the authorship of the sculptor Vitali, decorated with sculptures of playing boys. In the 19th century, water-folding fountains and pavilions were arranged in many Moscow squares. All of them were connected to the Mytishchi water pipeline, and it was from them that people carried buckets of water for their needs. The Mytishchi water pipeline was modernized 2 times, the last time in the 1890s, and only after that they began to massively supply water to houses. But, even by 1911, only 20% of Moscow houses were equipped with running water. Many still in the Soviet years continued to take water from these fountains.
The most famous fountains, decorated with sculptures by Vitali, stood on Teatralnaya, Lubyanskaya and Varvarskaya squares. There was only one left - in the square on Theater Square. This fountain was transferred from the Lubyanka in the 1930s to the site in front of the Neskuchny Palace (Academy of Sciences).

A typical gas lantern is visible in front of the fountain, this one stands a little closer to the shooting point.

Until the middle of the 19th century, lanterns in Moscow were oil and kerosene. In 1865, the English company of Bouquet and Goldsmith received a concession for the construction of a gas plant and lighting the streets of Moscow with flowing gas. The British built a plant with four round brick gas tanks, which we now know as Arma (near the Kursk railway station). In December 1865, several test lanterns were lit on the Kuznetsk bridge, and by 1868 there were already about 3,000 such lanterns on the streets of Moscow. They remained until 1932. Now this can be seen in the Museum "Lights of Moscow". And according to his model, many new electric lamps were installed as part of the reconstruction of Moscow streets in 2015-16.

Lubyanka Square is an expensive place and cab drivers are not easy here. In its pure form, on sprung carriages and "dutik" wheels (tires with pressure)

Among the cabbies are their Moscow show-offs. All have bays and blacks, and one has a white “deuce”. Probably took more.

At the water fountain you can see the barrel of a water carrier - an everyday Moscow detail, which is already in Soviet time completely disappeared from the streets.

In Teatralniy proezd, you can see a traffic jam from horse cars.

As in many African and Asian countries, and now in Moscow, one could sometimes see how people carry a decent burden on their heads, and on foreground a person seems to be talking on the phone, and what he was holding to his ear then, in fact, more than 100 years ago, will remain a mystery.

Lubyanka Square - old times

K. F. Yuon. Lubyanskaya Square. Winter. Painting 1916

Almost every, even not very large, private collection of postcards with views of old Moscow has postcards depicting Lubyanka Square. Apparently, they were published in large, in comparison with other plots, editions, and they were in demand. It must be admitted that these postcards are spectacular and beautiful.

The Kitai-Gorod wall and the arch of the Prolomny Nikolsky Gate with a gate icon above them, like a beautiful old frame, frame the view of the square. Through the gate you can see a piece of a guessable wide square, at the far end of which rises a huge building, similar to a castle, and this picture gives the impression that one has only to go outside the gate and another, spacious world opens up to the eye, so different from the cramped conditions inside Kitai-Gorod.

The views of the square itself are also beautiful: from the building of the Rossiya insurance company to the Nikolskaya tower of the Kitaigorodskaya wall with the domes of the Vladimir church rising above the wall and the majestic chapel of Panteleimon the Healer, as well as from the Nikolskaya tower - to Rossiya, to the fountain in the middle of the square, to the first - corner - buildings of the streets of Bolshaya and Malaya Lubyanka, Myasnitskaya and the ancient church of the Grebnevskaya Icon of the Mother of God extending from the square. (On one of the postcards of the 1910s on the first house of Myasnitskaya Street, which in 1934 was renamed in honor of S. M. Kirov, a member of the Politburo of the Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party of Bolsheviks, into Kirov Street and was called so until 1991, you can read: “I. Kirov Instrument manufacturer.” Curious coincidence!)

On these postcards from the beginning of the century, the viewer is presented with a summer, bright, sunny square of a prosperous city in prosperous pre-war times, even before the First World War.

Another image of this square is in the painting by K. F. Yuon. Its space is just as wide, the Panteleimon Chapel is just as majestic, there are also a lot of people on the square, but it is not the summer sun that floods it, but the early winter pearl-gray pre-twilight envelops, snow lies on the ground, on the roofs, clouds of smoke and steam rise above the roofs . A lot of jackdaws fly across the sky, gathering in flocks, at this hour they usually fly away to their places of overnight stay: to the Alexander Garden, to the Sparrow Hills ...

Yuon painted the picture at the end of the second year of the First World War, in December 1916, from the window of the Rossiya Insurance Company. He managed to convey the anxious pre-revolutionary mood that prevailed then in Moscow. In addition to the general color of the picture, this mood is created by numerous figures of people running across the square in different directions, they seem to be rushing around, like ants in a disturbed anthill. (“Moscow during the war years was overflowing with visiting people,” the artist recalls, talking about working on this picture.) And the crowd of birds in the gray sky further enhances this impression of chaotic movement.

On modern Lubyanka Square, not much has survived from those times - only two or three houses, but nevertheless it is recognizable, because it has retained its layout: the Teatralny Proezd also goes down from it, to Theater Square, in the left corner the Bolshaya Lubyanka, and in the right - Myasnitskaya, and in the middle, as before by a fountain, now the center of the square is marked by a round flower bed.

Lubyanskaya Square is located in one of the oldest inhabited areas of Moscow. According to legend and documents, the vast Kuchkovo field began here - the possession of the legendary boyar Kuchka, on whose lands Prince Yuri Dolgoruky set up the “city of small drevyans” - the original Moscow.

View of the Nikolskaya Tower and the Prolomnye Gate from Lubyanka Square. Photo of the 2nd half of the 19th century.

In the XII-XIV centuries, the Kuchkovo field, stretching from the present Lubyanka Square to the Sretensky Gates and from the Neglinnaya River to the Yauza, was countryside with fields, copses, meadows, villages. Crowded gatherings of townspeople took place in the established places on the glades of Kuchkov field, elections of thousands, a noisy veche, a grand princely court was held ... But already in the 15th century, the Moscow settlement grew to Kuchkov field and occupied part of its territory. With the erection of the stone Kitaygorodskaya wall, which ran along the edge of the Kuchkov field, part of it became the square in front of one of its travel towers, called Nikolskaya.

As usual, a bazaar formed by itself on the square at the entrance gate, where the peasants, who brought their goods to the capital, traded from wagons. This product was seasonal, so among Muscovites the square in front of the Nikolsky Gates was known under different names, depending on what attracted someone to this market. In old memories, in addition to its most famous name - Lubyanka Square - there are others - Wood, Horse, Apple, Watermelon. Perhaps there were more.

About its main name, the author of the first, published in 1878, reference book on the origin of the names of Moscow streets and lanes A. A. Martynov writes: “The name Lubyanka has existed for a very long time, but we find an explanation for it no earlier than 1804, when from the city of a place for selling vegetables and fruits in bast huts. Martynov's explanation sounds convincing, but the name Lubyanka is found in documents and in the census of households a century earlier - in 1716. Yes, and Martynov's reservation that it "has existed for a very long time" makes us turn not to 1804, but to the time the square was formed - to the 15th century. In the last quarter of the 15th century, Prince Ivan III of Moscow, who became the Grand Duke of All Russia, gathered under his hand most of the Russian specific principalities and was preparing to finally overthrow the Tatar yoke. But at that time, the Novgorod boyars and posadniks, who owned power in Veliky Novgorod - an ancient trading republic, fearing to lose it, betrayed the all-Russian cause and entered into secret negotiations with the Polish king Casimir on the transfer of the Novgorod regions under the dominion of the Polish crown. Ivan III's campaign against Novgorod ended with the defeat of the rebels.

The boyars, posadniks, the richest merchants with their families, that is, those who participated in the conspiracy, their relatives and friends were relocated from Novgorod to the cities of central Russia, including Moscow. In Moscow, Novgorodians were settled in a settlement outside the Nikolsky Gates of Kitay-gorod.

Novgorod settlers put ordinary, that is, in one day, working with the whole world, a wooden church in the name of Sophia the Wisdom of God - in memory of the main temple of Veliky Novgorod - Sophia. At the end of the 17th century, a stone temple was built in its place, which was rebuilt in the 19th century. In 1936, the church was closed, the building was adapted for a sportswear factory of the Dynamo society. So far, the church of Sofia has not been restored and services are not held in it. In 1990, the temple was occupied by the KGB, in 2002 the temple was returned to believers. The church has been put under state protection as an architectural monument. Her current address is Pushechnaya Street, 15.

Novgorodians called their settlement Lubyanskaya in memory of Lubyanitsy - one of the central streets of Novgorod. Moscow adopted the Novgorod name, over time transforming it in the Moscow fashion into Lubyanka. Since it was not the name of a street, not a square, but an area, or, speaking in Moscow, tracts, then over time it passed to the streets and alleys laid in this place. At the beginning of the 20th century, there were Bolshaya and Malaya Lubyanka streets, two Lubyansky passages - just Lubyansky and Small Lubyansky, Lubyansky dead end and Lubyanskaya Square.

At the end of the 16th - beginning of the 17th century, the estates of the nobility were located on Lubyanka and its environs, as documents of those times show. Among their owners are many well-known names in the history of Russia: princes Khovansky, Pozharsky, steward prince Yuri Sitsky, steward Mikifor Sobakin, steward Zyuzin, prince Kurakin, princes Pronsky, Zasekin, Mosalsky, Obolensky, Lvov, Golitsyn and others. Most of the princely possessions were located in the northern part of Lubyanka Square, along the Trinity Road.

In the 16th-17th centuries, a settlement of archers was usually placed at the city gates, who guarded the gates. At the Nikolsky gates of Kitay-gorod, the Strepy Regiment was settled, which guarded the royal palace and accompanied the king on his trips.

And in the distance from the gate, in the northern part of the square in the XV-XVI centuries there was a settlement of masters who made combat bows, and the area was called Archers. The memory of the archers is preserved in the name of the Church of St. George the Great Martyr, on Lubyanka, in Old Archers, as well as in the name of Luchnikov Lane. The works of Moscow gunsmiths were of high quality. But already in the 16th century, bows were no longer used as military weapons, and their production ceased, the Slobozhans were forced to change their profession. True, the church, known from the annals from the middle of the 15th century, in the middle of the 17th century still retained the indication “in Luchniki” in its name, then, after the construction of a prison nearby, another topographical explanation appeared: “what about the old prisons”, at the end of the 17th century the prison was closed, and the former definition was restored in the name of the church, acquiring a word that clarifies that we are talking about ancient times: "in the Old Archers."

The modern building of the Church of St. George, in Starye Luchniki, was built in 1692-1694. After its use in the post-revolutionary period, first as a women's hostel for the OGPU, then as a handicraft factory, only mutilated walls remained of it. In 1993 the church was returned to believers. The long extinction of the archery profession has led to the oblivion of the real meaning of the expression "in the Old Archers", and in the literature there is an idea that it comes from the "bow merchants" who lived here, although documents do not record any trade here either in the 17th century or later.

In 1709, during the war with the Swedes, Peter I, fearing that they would reach Moscow, ordered to strengthen the Kitaigorod wall with earthen fortifications - bolters, during which all the suburban buildings that stood on the square were demolished. Fortunately, the fears turned out to be in vain: the Swedes were defeated near Poltava and did not reach Moscow.

The wasteland, formed at the Nikolsky Gate as a result of the demolition of the settlement and the erection of Peter's bolverks along the Kitaygorod wall, remained undeveloped for a century. It hosted seasonal bazaars and fairs. In 1797, during the coronation of Paul I, a feast was held on Lubyanka Square. “There was a dinner for the people,” recalls E. P. Yankova, “starting from the Nikolsky Gate, tables and lockers with roasted bulls were placed throughout Lubyanka Square; fountains gushed red and white wine…”

After the fire of 1812, the square was reconstructed: the ditch was filled up, the bolt-works were torn down. In terms of its size, Lubyanskaya Square became the largest Moscow square: it stretched from the Nikolsky Gates of Kitay-Gorod to the Ilyinsky Gates and received the official name - Bolshaya Nikolskaya Square. True, this name remained only in stationery papers: the people continued to call it Lubyanskaya.

Lubyanskaya Square got its modern size and configuration in the 1870s, when its closest part to Ilyinka (called by Muscovites Arbuznaya Square, after the cheerful autumn trade in watermelons) was given for the construction of the Polytechnic Museum. The distance from south to north - from the wall of Kitay-Gorod to the FSB building - has remained unchanged from the 18th century to the present.

One of the earliest depictions of Lubyanka Square is in F. Ya. Alekseev's watercolor of the 1800s “Moscow. View of the Vladimir Gates of Kitay-Gorod from Myasnitskaya Street. In the foreground is the Church of the Grebnevskaya Icon of the Mother of God. At the beginning of the 18th century, two boards with inscriptions were fixed on the gate posts of the church fence, telling about the history of the church. Initially, in this place in 1472, Ivan III, in memory of a successful campaign against Novgorod, erected a wooden church of the Assumption of the Mother of God. At the beginning of the 16th century, his son Vasily III replaced the wooden church with a stone church, into which the icon of the Grebnevskaya Mother of God was transferred from the Kremlin Assumption Cathedral, according to legend, brought in 1380 to Dmitry Don Cossacks who lived between the rivers Donets and Kalitva, near the Grebnevsky mountains. This icon was highly revered in Moscow.

Subsequently, the church was rebuilt and renovated, the last time - in 1901. In the 1920s, it was restored as an outstanding monument of history and architecture.

F. Ya. Alekseev. View of the Vladimir Gates from Myasnitskaya Street. Painting from 1800

At that time, inside the church, in the refectory, ancient tombstones of the 17th-18th centuries were still preserved, on which one could read the famous aristocratic names of the princes Shcherbatovs, Volynskys, Urusovs and others. There was also one headstone. common man- "arithmetic schools of the teacher" Leonty Filippovich Magnitsky.

L. F. Magnitsky died in 1739. Ten years before this, an imperial decree was issued "On the non-burial of dead bodies, except for noble people, inside cities and on their transportation to monasteries and parish churches outside the city." Magnitsky cannot be attributed to the number of "noble people", so his burial in this church seems very unusual.

By origin, Magnitsky was a serf of the Ostashkov Patriarchal Sloboda, on Lake Seliger. He was born in 1669. After the death of Magnitsky, the priest of the local church wrote down the legends about his young years that were preserved in the memory of fellow countrymen. “In his early years, an inglorious and insufficient person,” they say, “who fed himself with the work of his hands, he became famous here only because, having learned to read and write himself, he was a passionate hunter to read in church and disassemble the intricate and difficult.”

V. A. Milashevsky. Church of the Grebnevskaya Icon of the Mother of God. Drawing 1930

Once the young man Magnitsky was sent with a fish convoy to the Joseph-Volokolamsk monastery, whose abbot, having learned that he was literate, left him with him. It is known that then for some time Magnitsky lived in the Moscow Simonov Monastery, it seems that the monastic authorities intended to prepare him for the priesthood. For some reason, perhaps because he was a taxable peasant, Magnitsky could not study at the Slavic-Greek-Latin Academy, but independently mastered the Greek, Latin, German and Italian languages, studied the sciences taught at the academy from books, self-taught, then is, as his contemporary put it, "he learned the sciences in a marvelous and unbelievable way." In the late 1690s, Magnitsky worked as a home tutor in Moscow, teaching the children of wealthy people to read and write. Once, the legend tells, when he was giving another lesson in the house of a boyar, Peter I visited the owner. good mood, spoke with the teacher and came to an even better mood when he heard that he answered his questions from different sciences sensibly and confidently. Leonty, like all Russian peasants then, did not have a last name, and Peter, noticing that the children cling to the teacher, said: “Since you attract the youths to you like a magnet, I command you to continue to be called Magnitsky.”

A page from "Arithmetic" by L. F. Magnitsky. 1703 edition

When the Navigation School, the first mathematical school in Russia, was opened in 1701, it required a mathematics textbook, since then there was not a single such textbook in Russian. The clerk of the Armory Chamber Alexei Kurbatov pointed to Magnitsky as a person capable of "composing" him.

On this occasion, a nominal decree of Peter I followed on the enrollment of "Ostashkovite Leonty Magnitsky" as a teacher of the Navigation School with the assignment "through his work to publish him in the Slovenian dialect, choosing from arithmetic and geometry and navigation, as a book possible for embossing."

For a year and a half, Magnitsky "composed" a textbook. The book turned out to be voluminous - more than 600 pages, but it set out the full course of the mathematical sciences studied at school: arithmetic, algebra, geometry, trigonometry and navigation. Teachers and students called the textbook simply "Arithmetic". But the full title of the book, according to the custom of that time, was long, detailed and occupied the entire title page. It began with its own title: “Arithmetic, that is, the science of numerals”, then it was reported that it was published by order of Tsar Peter Alekseevich (his full title was given) in his reign in the God-saved reigning city of Moscow, then it was said to whom and for what the book was intended: “for the sake of teaching wise Russian youths and all ranks and ages of people.

In these last words was the secret and, perhaps, the main idea with which the book was written: Magnitsky created a textbook, according to which anyone could, without a teacher, self-taught, like himself, study the basics of mathematical sciences. Magnitsky's "Arithmetic" was not like those manuals that contained only dry rules and bored the students. Magnitsky tried to arouse their interest and arouse curiosity.

On the back of the title page was placed a drawing depicting a magnificent flowering bush and two young men holding branches with flowers in their hands. Below the drawing is printed a poetic appeal to a young student, composed specially for Arithmetic by Magnitsky:

Accept, young woman, wisdom flowers ...

Kindly learn arithmetic,

In her different rules and hold on to the pieces

For in citizenship, there is a need for deeds ...

That path in the sky will decide on the sea,

It is also useful in the field in the war.

Even Magnitsky's definition of arithmetic is not dry, but poetic. “Arithmetic, or the numerator,” he writes, “is an art that is honest, unenviable (free), and comprehensible to everyone (easily digestible), most useful and much praised, invented and expounded from the most ancient and the latest, who at different times were the fairest arithmeticians” . After such a characterization, the student simply could not help being proud that he was studying such a glorious science.

The ignorant, who consider learning an empty business, usually justified their unwillingness to learn with what they considered a very persuasive question: “Why is this learning necessary? What good is it to me?" Therefore, Magnitsky on the pages of "Arithmetic" never misses the opportunity to answer this question. Explaining some rule, he, as it were, casually remarks: "If you want to be a marine navigator, then you need to know this." Most of Arithmetic's problems are based on real-life cases that students are sure to encounter in the future: in its problems, merchants buy and sell goods, officers distribute salaries to soldiers, a land surveyor settles a dispute between landowners who have argued about the boundaries of their fields, and so on.

There are also problems of a different kind in Arithmetic, the so-called intricate. These are stories and anecdotes with a mathematical plot. Here is one of them (since the language of the textbook is outdated and now obscure, here it is close to modern):

“A certain man sold a horse for 156 rubles. But the buyer, deciding that the purchase was not worth that kind of money, began to return the horse to the seller, saying:

It’s absurd for me to pay such a high price for such an unworthy horse.

Then the seller offered him another purchase:

If you think that my price for a horse is high, then buy the nails with which his horseshoes are nailed, and I will give the horse to you with them as a gift. And there are six nails in each horseshoe, but you will pay a single penny for the first nail (a penny is a quarter of a penny), for the second - two pennies, for the third - a penny, and so you will redeem all the nails.

The buyer was delighted, believing that he would have to pay no more than 10 rubles and that he would get a horse for nothing, and agreed to the seller's terms.

The question is: how much will this buyer have to pay for the horse?

Having calculated and learned that a slow-witted and not able to quickly calculate buyer will have to pay 41,787 rubles and another 3 kopecks with three pennies, the student is unlikely to forget the rule for which this task is given.

The clerk of the Armory Kurbatov, who was entrusted with supervising the work of Magnitsky, sent Arithmetic to the tsar in the manuscript. The manuscript was approved by Peter, and five hundred rubles were transferred to the Printing Yard “for embossing two thousand four hundred books of Arithmetic. The circulation, for those times, was assigned a huge one, because then books were published in dozens and rarely in hundreds of copies. But even this circulation was insufficient, three years later Arithmetika was printed again.

For almost the entire 18th century, despite the fact that new textbooks were published, all of Russia studied according to Magnitsky's Arithmetic. His expectation that not only the students of the Mathematical School would begin to learn from it was completely justified: people of “all rank and age” in various distant provinces learned mathematics from it by self-taught. Mikhail Lomonosov, a Pomeranian boy from the village of Kholmogory, mastered it exactly in this way, and until the end of his days he gratefully called Magnitsky's Arithmetic "the gates of his learning."

In the decree on the appointment of Magnitsky as a teacher of the Navigation School, he was simply called “Ostashkovite”, which meant that officially he remained a peasant who paid taxes in this county, and had neither a rank nor any public office. He did not have his own house, although he was already married and had children. After the release of "Arithmetic" and Peter I's favorable attitude towards it, Magnitsky got the opportunity to appeal to the emperor with a petition for a reward for his labors, which, one could hope, would not be rejected.

Magnitsky applied for the award of the “court”.

His request was granted, and “he, Leonty, and his wife and children for the sake of eternal possession” were granted “yard lands” in the White City on Lubyanka Square in the parish of the Church of the Great Martyr George in Starye Luchniki.

The decree says what the award follows, namely, for the composition of the Arithmetic and in connection with the lack of housing for the petitioner. The decree also contains a description of the granted plot: “A later place where the old prison yard used to be, and after that the singers Stepan Evlonsky and Fyodor Khvatsovsky lived, and the church of Nikolai Gostunsky Archpriest Sava. And the measure of that place: the length is fifteen, and the diameter is seventeen fathoms. After the fire time, the aforementioned residents do not live in that place, and the residential chamber collapsed from a fire incident and from no one (not) a builder because they have other yards. And so that Evo, the Great Sovereign, with a gracious command, give that place (...) to him, Leonty, and make a tent and other house mansion buildings from the Armory. Thus, Magnitsky received land and a house with outbuildings for "composing" a school textbook.

Apparently, the emperor’s words about the nationwide benefit that Magnitsky’s labors brought gave him a special status in society, and this was the reason that, after his death, he was buried not even in his parish church, but in a prestigious church founded by the tsar, which, of course, , was a sign of special respect and honor. For the information of future generations, on his tombstone was written about the great merits of a school teacher:

“In eternal memory (...) Leonty Filippovich Magnitsky, the first teacher of mathematics in Russia, here buried husband (...) unhypocritical love for one’s neighbor, zealous piety, pure living, deepest humility, constant generosity, quietest disposition, mature mind, honest treatment, honesty to the lover, in the servants of the fatherland, the most zealous trustee, subordinate to the kind father, insults from enemies, the most patient, to all the most pleasant and all insults, passions and evil deeds, alienated by forces, in instructions, in reasoning, the advice of friends to the most skillful, the truth about both spiritual and civil affairs the most dangerous guardian, a true imitator of a virtuous life, an assembly of all the virtues; who began the path of this temporary and regrettable life on June 9th, 1669, learned the sciences in a wondrous and unbelievable way. His Majesty Peter the Great "for wit in the sciences, we know in 1700 and from His Majesty, at the discretion of the disposition to all the most pleasant and attracting to oneself, he was granted, named Magnitsky and was appointed to the Russian noble youth as a teacher of mathematics, in which the title is zealous, true, honestly diligently and blamelessly serving and having lived in the world for 70 years 4 months and 10 days, 1739, October 19th, about midnight at 1 o'clock, leaving a virtuous life an example to those who remained after him, he died gracefully.

During the demolition of the Grebnevskaya Church in the early 1930s (the temple was not demolished immediately, but in parts - from 1927 to 1935), Magnitsky's tombstone (located in the Historical Museum) and his burial were discovered: the ashes of the "first Russian mathematics teacher" rested in an old coffin - an oak log, an inkwell in the form of a lamp and a quill were lying at the head ...

At the very beginning of Myasnitskaya, to the right of the underpass, there is one of the FSB buildings, a powerful granite staircase leads to the main entrance to it from the side of the street. On the site of the stairs and the entrance was the Church of the Grebnevskaya Icon of the Mother of God. Passing by, remember that somewhere here, under the asphalt, lies the ashes of Russia's first "mathematics teacher"...

There is “no stone, no cross” above him, as the famous song says, the words of the song that he served “for the glory of the Russian flag” are also true. It would be fair to install his old tombstone or memorial sign on this place.

Let's return to F. Ya. Alekseev's watercolors. Along the street, near the gate on the territory of the Church of the Grebnevskaya Icon of the Mother of God, there is a one-story house of the clergy, then you can see the three-story building of the University Printing House. In the 1780s, N. I. Novikov rented it, he lived in the house opposite.

The 1780s were the most fruitful years of N. I. Novikov's educational and publishing activities. “A printer, publisher, bookseller, journalist, literary historian, school trustee, philanthropist, Novikov remained the same in all these fields - a sower of enlightenment,” this is how V. O. Klyuchevsky characterized N. I. Novikov and called the 1780s years in the history of public and scientific life of Moscow - the "Novikov decade". Meetings of the Friendly Scientific Society founded by him and meetings of the Masonic lodge "Latona" took place in Novikov's house, one of the leaders of which he was. N. M. Karamzin visited N. I. Novikov here.

In front of the windows of the printing house and Novikov's house, as depicted in the painting by F. Ya. Alekseev, the wide Lubyanskaya Square is spread out: there is a striped sentry box on it, an officer teaches soldiers to build, the townspeople are walking. In the background, you can see the Kitaygorodskaya wall, the Nikolskaya tower, behind it is the dome of the Vladimirskaya church. In front of the wall, the swollen bastions, overgrown with grass, piled up under Peter I, are turning green ...

On the right side of the painting by F. Ya. Alekseev there is a high blind brick fence, behind it there is another house well known to Muscovites of the 18th century.

This house with a vast courtyard in the 17th century was the farmstead of the Ryazan archbishop. At the beginning of the XVIII century, after the abolition of the patriarchate by Peter I, the locum tenens of the patriarchal throne, Metropolitan Stefan Yavorsky of Ryazan, lived in it, here he wrote panegyrics to the emperor, in which learned monk with complex logical arguments, he refuted the opinion that had spread among the people that Peter I was none other than the Antichrist.

In the 18th century, the courtyard was evicted, and its premises were occupied by the Moscow Secret Expedition - political investigation, dungeons and prison.

The Special Secret Chancellery was founded by Peter I for the investigation and trial of political cases; it also existed under his successors. But in February 1762 Peter III issued a manifesto "On the destruction of the Secret Investigative Office." “Everyone knows,” the manifesto said, “that the establishment of secret detective offices, no matter how many different names they had, was prompted by our all-loving grandfather, the sovereign Emperor Peter the Great, the magnanimous and philanthropic monarch of those times, circumstances and uncorrected morals among the people. From that time on, the need for the aforementioned offices became less and less; but as the Secret Chancellery always remained in its power, then evil, vile and idle people were given a way either to stretch the executions and punishments they deserved with false ideas, or to insult their superiors or enemies with the most malicious slander.

Catherine II, having ascended the throne, in the very first year of her reign restored the Secret Chancellery under the name of the Secret Expedition. The empress delved into the process of conducting the investigation, in her decree to the Senate of January 15, 1763, it was ordered to persuade criminals to confess “mercy and exhortation”, but torture was also allowed: “When the investigation of any case inevitably comes to torture, in this case act with extreme caution and consideration, and most of all, to observe, so that sometimes with the guilty and innocent tortures they could not endure in vain.

Under Catherine II, the Secret Expedition was led by S. I. Sheshkovsky, about whom A. S. Pushkin wrote down the following story of a contemporary: “Potemkin, meeting with Sheshkovsky, usually used to say to him:“ What, Stepan Ivanovich, what is it like to whip? ”To which Sheshkovsky always answered with a low bow: “Little by little, your grace!”

The house on Lubyanskaya Square, which had previously housed the Ryazan Compound (of the Ryazan Archbishop), was occupied in 1774 by a royal command by a commission that was investigating "the traitor Pugachev", and then the house was designated as a building for the Moscow Secret Expedition.

The “New Guide to Moscow”, published in 1833, says about him: “The old-timers of Moscow will still remember the iron gates of this Mystery, facing Lubyanka Square; the guard stood in the courtyard. It was scary, they say, to walk past.

As for what actually happened behind the iron gates, one had to be content with only rumors and conjectures: from those who had been there and left there, they took a subscription that he would keep silent about what he saw and heard, what he was asked about and what did with him.

In 1792, N. I. Novikov was taken to the Moscow Secret Expedition. Speaking about the duplicity of Catherine II, “Tartuffe in a skirt and in a crown,” A. S. Pushkin wrote: “Catherine loved enlightenment, and Novikov, who spread the first rays of it, passed from the hands of Sheshkovsky into a dungeon, where he remained until her death” .

Paul I ordered the release of prisoners imprisoned by Catherine II in the prisons of the Secret Expedition. A contemporary told about the release of prisoners from the Moscow Secret Expedition: “When they were taken out into the yard, they didn’t even look like people: some scream, some rage, some fall dead ... In the yard they took off their chains and took some to a lunatic asylum ". Alexander I in 1801, again, like his grandfather, destroyed the Secret Expedition. The house on Lubyanka passed to the city, and then various institutions were placed in it.

Over the years, they began to forget about the dungeon on Lubyanka Square. Suddenly, he reminded of himself a hundred years later. V. A. Gilyarovsky in the essay “Lubyanka” says: “At the beginning of this century, I was returning home from a long trip along Myasnitskaya from the Kursk railway station - and suddenly I saw: there was no house, only a pile of stone and garbage. Masons are working, destroying the foundation. I jumped off the cab and straight to them. Turns out - new house want to build.

Now the underground prison began to break, - the foreman explained to me.

I saw her, I say.

No, you saw the basement, we had already broken it, and under it there was still the most terrible: in one of its compartments there were potatoes and firewood, and the other half was tightly walled up ... We ourselves did not know that there was a room there. We made a breach and we stumbled upon an oak, forged iron door. They broke it by force, and behind the door - a human skeleton ... How they tore off the door - how it rattles, how the chains rattled ... The bones were buried. The police came, and the bailiff took the chains somewhere.

We climbed through the gap, went down four steps to the stone floor; here the underground darkness still struggled with the light from the broken ceiling at the other end of the dungeon. It was hard to breathe... My guide took a stub of a candle out of his pocket and lit it... Vaults... rings... hooks...

And here was a skeleton on chains.

Upholstered with rusty iron, a blackened oak door, covered in mold, with a window, and behind it a low stone bag ... Upon further inspection, some other niches turned out to be in the walls, also, it must be, stone bags.

On the site of the former Secret Expedition, a building was built for the Spiritual Consistory - the Synodal Chancellery.

After the fire of 1812, “three philistine properties were added to Lubyanskaya Square, - as stated in the decision of the Commission for Buildings in Moscow, which was in charge of the restoration of the city, - now remaining without buildings” - apparently escheated plots; Peter's fortifications were demolished, the moat was filled in, the walls and towers of Kitay-Gorod were brought "in their form corresponding to antiquity", while other sections along the perimeter of the resulting area were sold to private individuals for development. The plot on the left side of the square (when viewed from the Nikolskaya Tower) from Teatralny Proezd to Pushechnaya Street (now occupied by the Detsky Mir department store) was purchased by Prince A. A. Dolgorukov and built a two-story long house, the first floor of which was adapted for benches and rented merchants. Traders of a variety of goods rented premises in these “Dolgorukovsky rows”: in the 1830s, among others, I. Datsiaro, the owner of a company specializing in the sale of prints, engravings and paintings, traded here; we present mainly for several series of "Views of Moscow", published by him. In the 1890s-1900s, Kolgushkin's tavern was located in one of the premises, which was visited by publishers and authors of "folk books".

Lubyanskaya Square. Lithograph after a drawing by S. Dietz. 1850

In the 1880s, behind the Dolgorukovsky shops, the Lubyansky Passage store was attached, equipped in a European manner, like other shopping arcades that appeared then in Moscow.

By right side Lubyanskaya Square, on the site of the dismantled building of the University Printing House, in 1823, a three-story large house was built by Pyotr Ivanovich Shipov - a very mysterious person. In some sources he is called a chamber junker, in others - a chamberlain. V. A. Gilyarovsky calls him a general, a well-known rich man, a man who “had power in Moscow,” before whom “the police did not dare to utter a word.” However, none of the contemporaries who wrote about Shipov provides any information about his origin and biography.

Shipov was known in Moscow for the fact that, having built a house on Lubyanskaya Square with commercial premises on the first floor and apartments on the second and third, he allowed everyone who needed housing to occupy apartments, did not charge his tenants, did not require registration in police, and no record of them was kept at all.

Shipov's house in Moscow was called "Shipov's fortress".

“The police did not dare to utter a word in front of the general,” says V. A. Gilyarovsky, “and soon the house was jam-packed with thieves and vagabonds who had fled from everywhere, who were operating with might and main in Moscow and carried the fruits of their nightly labors to the buyers of stolen goods, who also huddled in this house. It was risky to walk along Lubyanka Square at night.

The inhabitants of the Shipovskaya Fortress were divided into two categories: in one - runaway serfs, petty thieves, beggars, children who had run away from their parents and owners, students and those who had disappeared from the juvenile department of the prison castle, then Moscow bourgeoisie and passportless peasants from nearby villages. All this is a cheerful drunken people seeking refuge here from the police.

Category two - people are gloomy, silent. They do not get close to anyone, and in the midst of the widest revelry, the strongest intoxication, they will never say their name, they will not hint at anything of the past with a single word. Yes, no one around them dares to approach them with such a question. These are experienced robbers, deserters and fugitives from hard labor. They recognize each other at first sight and silently approach each other, like people who are connected by some secret link. People from the first category understand who they are, but silently, under overwhelming fear, do not violate their secrets with a word or a look ...

And so, when the police, after midnight, one day surrounded the house for a raid and occupied the entrances, at that time the “Ivans” returning from the nightly extraction noticed something was wrong, gathered in detachments and waited in ambush. When the police began to break into the house, they, armed, rushed at the police from behind, and a scuffle began. The police, who broke into the house, met resistance from inside the footcloths and a raid of "Ivans" from the outside. She shamefully fled, beaten and wounded, and for a long time forgot about the new raid.

In the 1850s, after Shipov's death, the "Humanitarian Society" acquired the house. With the help of a military team, all the inhabitants were expelled from it, who for the most part, having left, settled nearby on the Yauza, laying the foundation for the famous Khitrovka. "Humanitarian society", having repaired the house, began to rent apartments for a fee. It was inhabited, according to Gilyarovsky, by “the same dud, only with passports” - horse dealers, dealers from hands, buyers of stolen goods, tailors and other artisans, whose craft was to remake stolen goods so that the owner would not recognize.

All this was sold nearby at the flea market along the Kitaigorod wall from its inner side from the Nikolsky Gate to the Ilyinsky Gate. Here, between the wall and the nearest buildings, there was a free undeveloped space, in former times reserved for military purposes. In the 1790s, the Moscow governor-general Chernyshev ordered the construction of "wooden shops for petty trade" from scratch. Soon hand-trading arose near the shops and a crowded market formed.

The space occupied by the market in various documents and in different time they called it either New or Old Square, so in the memoirs you can find both names. At present, the name Staraya Ploschad has been assigned to the passage along the former Kitaigorod wall from the Varvarsky Gate Square to the Ilyinsky Gates, and the New Square - from the Ilyinsky Gate to Nikolskaya Street, that is, where the market was located.

E. Lillier. Push market in Moscow. Lithograph 1855

In the people, this place was simply called the Square, without specifying epithets. This folk name left a reminder of itself in folklore expression "square scolding". The essayist of the second half of the 19th century, I. Skavronsky, in his “Essays on Moscow” (edition of 1862) notes that on the Square “it is not uncommon to hear such sharp answers to the jokes addressed to them (customers) that you involuntarily blush ... Noise and din, as they say, they stand with a groan. Soldier women were distinguished by especially skillful swearing. They, according to Skavronsky, "remarkably snarl, sometimes quite often from a whole row." It is this highest degree of the ability to swear that the expression "areal abuse" means.

The flea market in the Square was a field of commercial operations for every crook and at the same time the last hope of the poor.

Many memoirists have described this market, and genre artists have depicted it. The market of the middle of the 19th century is depicted in a lithograph by E. Lillier. This sheet shows the types of serf times. A different crowd in the painting by V. E. Makovsky, painted in 1879. But the eternal, unchanging spirit of the Russian flea market, which has been preserved in modern similar markets, also blows over those and other people.

In the crowded market, no one was immune from the most brazen and clever deception: they bought one thing, and brought another home, tried on a strong thing, but ended up in holes. N. Polyakov, a Moscow writer of the 1840s–1850s, compares the push market dealers with the then world-famous magician Pinetti and gives them the palm of primacy over a foreign celebrity. However, Polyakov offers to look at the market from the other, “bright” side: “However, for people who are not rich in means, the push market is a real treasure: here the poor and common people buy clothes and shoes for themselves at a very reasonable or cheap price, and in so-called common table arranged on benches and on the ground under open sky, get breakfast, lunch or dinner, consisting of cabbage soup, stew, fried potatoes, etc. for three, four and five kopecks in silver ... There is also a mobile barber, consisting in the person of an old retired soldier, a small bench on which they shave and cut their hair , with a fee: one kopeck in silver for a shave, and three kopecks for a haircut. All this is very simple, free, convenient, spacious, cheap and cheerful.

N. Polyakov's description refers to the 1850s, to the time that is depicted in the lithograph by E. Lillier. In the following decades, morals hardened, the crowded market became angrier. Gilyarovsky describes the end of a cheap purchase: “In the seventies, paper soles were still practiced, despite the fact that leather was relatively inexpensive, but these were the mottos of both the merchant and the master: “for a penny of nickels” and “if you don’t cheat, you won’t sell “.

Of course, poor people suffered the most from this, and it was easy to cheat the buyer thanks to the “barkers”. With the last money he will buy boots, put them on, walk two or three streets through puddles in rainy weather - look, the sole has fallen behind and instead of leather - the paper sticks out of the boot. He’s back to the shop… The “barkers” have already found out why, and they’ll bombard his complaints with words and expose him as a swindler: he came, they say, to pick a hack, bought boots at the market, and you climb to us…

Well, well, in which shop did you buy it?

The unfortunate buyer is standing, confused, looking - there are a lot of shops, all signs and exits are similar, and each crowd “barkers” ...

He will cry and leave under hooting and ridicule ... "

But if the market inside the Kitaygorod wall served to satisfy material needs, then outside, on Lubyanka Square, in 1850-1860, during Lent, a bargaining took place, gathering lovers and admirers of hunting, sacrificing their passion for any material benefits and experiencing spiritual satisfaction from it.

In the 1870s, the Hunting Market was moved to Trubnaya Square, and at the end of the 1880s, the market on the Square was liquidated and a new market was opened in Sadovniki near Ustinsky Bridge. After that, as Gilyarovsky writes, "Shipov's house took on a relatively decent appearance." It was broken only in 1967, and a public garden was laid out in its place. They broke it long and hard, it was thick-walled and strong and, probably, could have stood for a hundred and fifty years - as much as it stood.

The land on the northern side of Lubyanskaya Square, opposite the Nikolskaya Tower, in the 1870s-1880s also belonged to one of the Moscow originals - the rich Tambov landowner Nikolai Semenovich Mosolov. A lonely man, he lived alone in a huge apartment in the main building, and the outbuildings and courtyard buildings were rented out to various establishments. One occupied the Warsaw Insurance Company, the other - a photograph of Mobius, there was also a tavern, a grocery store. On the upper floors there were furnished rooms occupied by permanent residents from the former Tambov landlords, who lived in the remnants of the "redemption" received during the liberation of the peasants. The old landlords and the same decrepit serf servants who did not leave them were strange and absolutely alien to modern times types. Gilyarovsky recalls the Tambov horse breeder Yazykova, a deep old woman, with her dogs and two decrepit "yard girls", a retired cavalry lieutenant colonel, who lay on the sofa for days with a pipe and sent letters to old friends asking for help ... Mosolov kept the old landlords who had completely lived out at his own expense .

Mosolov himself was a well-known collector and engraver-etcher. He studied at the St. Petersburg Academy of Arts, in Dresden and Paris, from 1871 he had the title of academician. A passionate admirer of Dutch art of the 17th century, he collected etchings and drawings by the Dutch masters of that time. His extensive collection included works by Rembrandt, Adrian van Ostade and many other artists, and was considered one of the first in Europe for its completeness and quality of sheets. Currently, most of the collection of N. S. Mosolov is in the Moscow Museum of Fine Arts. A. S. Pushkin.

Mosolov's own works as an etcher were highly valued by connoisseurs and were awarded at domestic and foreign exhibitions. He engraved paintings and drawings by Rubens, Raphael, Rembrandt, Murillo, Veronese, as well as Russian artists - his contemporaries - V.V. Vereshchagin, N.N. Ge, V.E. Makovsky and others.

In the 1890s, Mosolov sold his property to the Rossiya insurance company, which built a five-story apartment building in its place in 1897–1899, designed by architect A.V. Ivanov, who enjoyed well-deserved fame. The work of this architect was liked by the public. His project of an apartment house in St. Petersburg on the Admiralteyskaya embankment was even "highest" Tsar Alexander III noted as "an example of good taste."

The architecture of the house of the Rossiya insurance company on Lubyanskaya Square belongs to that vaguely indefinite style that is called eclecticism. But we can definitely say that the building turned out to be both fundamental, which, of course, should have inspired confidence in its owner - the insurance company, and beautiful, its roof was decorated with turrets, the central one - with a clock - was crowned by two stylized female figures, symbolizing, as he claims rumor, Justice and comfort.

The main facade of the house overlooked Lubyanskaya Square, the side facades overlooked Bolshaya and Malaya Lubyanka, and in the courtyard there was another building, also owned by an insurance company, which was rented by Varvara Vasilievna Azbukina, the widow of a collegiate assessor, under the furnished rooms "Imperial".

The first floors of the Rossiya building were occupied by shops and offices, while the upper floors were inhabited.

Next to this house stood another house of the insurance company, built in the same style and actually being its outbuilding, only separated from it by a passage.

The buildings of the Rossiya insurance company occupied almost the entire northern part of Lubyanka Square, and only a two-story house with four windows had a different owner: it belonged to the clergy of the Church of the Grebnevskaya Icon of the Mother of God, but in 1907 it was bought by the insurance company.

From the book Famous sea robbers. From Vikings to Pirates author Balandin Rudolf Konstantinovich

Chapter 6 New times - old customs We live among the seas In flying ships. Our forest - clouds, the nightingale - The splash of rattlesnakes. Without sowing, we reap, Without asking, we have: The day passes at noon Weekdays - an anniversary If we set a holiday Before the general shift - The clouds burn with fire, The sea

From the book World History: in 6 volumes. Volume 2: Medieval Civilizations of the West and East author Team of authors

"OLD EMPIRES" These empires embodied three different civilizations, but with all their obvious difference from each other, their common features are striking - these were regions of ancient statehood, and their population did not need to be explained what taxes were and why they

From the book Women of Victorian England. From ideal to vice author Coty Katherine

Old maids Although marriage was considered the ideal for any woman, many English women could only dream of matrimonial joys. Because at least there were too many of them. According to the 1851 census, there were half a million more women in Great Britain,

From the book The Great Terror. Book II author Conquest Robert

ON THE OLD RAILS On June 25, 1945, raising a toast at a reception in the Kremlin in honor of the participants in the victory parade, Stalin did not accidentally call the "simple, ordinary, modest" Soviet people "cogs in the great state mechanism." He intended to restore the old car and

From the book Myths about Belarus author Deruzhinsky Vadim Vladimirovich

OLD DISPUTES At the beginning of 2013, the whole of Russia was stirred up by the news about the renaming of Volgograd for 6 days to Stalingrad. The topic was discussed on almost all television talk shows. The Stalinists tried to present the matter as if the renaming was connected with the Battle of Stalingrad, and not with

From the book Myths and Truths about Women author Pervushina Elena Vladimirovna

Old, old tales Remnants of the primitive system are still preserved among some tribes of Oceania. As mentioned above, in some cultures, the functions of the father, in fact, are performed by the brother of the mother, while the biological father does not manifest himself in any way until the children come of age.

From the book Vladivostok author Khisamutdinov Amir Alexandrovich

author Yastrebov Andrey Leonidovich

From the book God Save the Russians! author Yastrebov Andrey Leonidovich

From the book Noon: The Case of the Demonstration on August 25, 1968 on Red Square author Gorbanevskaya Natalya

Instead of the afterword “You can go to the square, you dare to go to the square” (“Russian Thought” No. 3479, August 25, 1983) Fifteen years later - what new could I tell about the demonstration? Even in order to restore its exact picture now, I would have to turn to me

From the book Moscow Legends. On the cherished road Russian history author Muravyov Vladimir Bronislavovich

Lubyanka Square - new times View of Lubyanka Square. Postcard, 1927. In 1918, in one of the profitable houses of a large Moscow landlord, the merchant Stakheev on Lubyanskaya Square, the futurist poet V. V. Mayakovsky received a room in a communal apartment. Subsequently, he

From the book of Athena: the history of the city author Llewellyn Smith Michael

"Old Athens" Athenians love to think of "old Athens". There is a whole category of nostalgic songs: "Meeting in Athens", "Athens and again Athens" performed by the wonderful Sofia Vembo, "Athens in the Night", "Athenian Tango", "Beautiful Athens" and the famous "Athens" -

From the book Moscow Akuninskaya author Besedina Maria Borisovna

Lubyanskaya Square. Lubyansky passage. Polytechnical Museum Separated from Staraya and Novaya squares, respectively, by a public garden and a huge building of the Polytechnical Museum, Lubyansky passage stretches. It was along it that Fandorin, Masa and Senka Skorikov walked to the bench in the square,

From the book Shadow of Mazepa. Ukrainian nation in the era of Gogol author Belyakov Sergey Stanislavovich

From the book Sennaya Square. Yesterday Today Tomorrow author Yurkova Zoya Vladimirovna

Sennaya Square and Sennaya Market in the time of Catherine II The next period in the life of Sennaya Square begins with the reign of Catherine II. Each ruler begins his activity with reforms, and Catherine began with them. The reforms were reflected in the grandiose and

From the book Chistye Prudy. From Stoleshnikov to Chistye Prudy author Romanyuk Sergey Konstantinovich

Chapter VII Lubyanka Square “I was at the Lubyanka”, “We returned from the Lubyanka”, “We need to go to the Lubyanka”, - if for young people these words contain only a message about one of Moscow squares or a metro station, then older people from such words startle. More

Bolshaya Lubyanka Street runs from Lubyanskaya Square to Sretensky Gate Square. Its history is rich in events and spans several centuries.

Origin of the street name

There are several versions of the origin of the toponym "Lubyanka".

The name may have originated:

From the tract, the mention of which is found in chronicles in the 15th century;

From the word "bast" - the inner part of the bark of trees and shrubs;

From the Baltic root "bast" - to clean, peel;

From the Novgorodian street Lubyanitsa: during the time of the resettlement of Novgorodians to Moscow, they renamed part of the then-called Sretenka street into Lubyanka.

Street renaming

Bolshaya Lubyanka has changed its name more than once, but its original name was Sretenka, which it received in the 14th century, in honor of the "meeting" of Muscovites with. In those days, Moscow could have been invaded by Tamerlane's troops, and in order to protect the city from this disaster, icon. Muscovites worshiped (meeting) the icon near the church in the name of Mary of Egypt, which was located on the territory of modern Lubyanka Street. Moscow managed to avoid the raid of Tamerlane, and the whole street was built at the meeting place and the whole street was named in honor of this event.

At the beginning of the 19th century, the street began to be called Bolshaya Lubyanka, and in 1926 it was renamed Dzerzhinsky Street. In 1991, it was returned to its former name - Bolshaya Lubyanka.

The main memorable dates in the fate of the street

Since the founding of the Sretensky Monastery, people have been walking along the street and square. procession believers. The monastery and temples of Sretenskaya Street were very revered among the believers of Moscow and pilgrims from other cities.

In 1611, fierce battles took place on the territory of the street, especially strong and bloody of them was near the Church of the Introduction to the Temple Holy Mother of God opposite the estates of Prince Pozharsky. Pozharsky himself led the attacks and was badly wounded.

In 1662, the “copper riot” began on this street, a turmoil that engulfed all of Moscow.

Along Sretenka Street was the famous path of M.V. Lomonosov from Kholmogory to Moscow (in 1731).

In 1748, there was a very strong fire on Lubyanka, as a result of which about 1200 houses, 26 churches burned down and about 100 people died.

The Moscow fires of 1812 did not affect the street.

In the 19th century, the street became the main trading point of the city, and by the end of the century it was completely filled with agencies of insurance companies and tenement houses.

The street suffered great losses in the 20th century. After the October Revolution, churches in the name of Mary of Egypt and the Entry into the Church of the Most Holy Theotokos were completely destroyed. The Sretensky Monastery lost most of its buildings and churches, was abolished, returned to the church only in 1991.

Almost the entire building at the beginning of the street was destroyed, where there were houses of church ministers, a confectionery, optical, jewelry, hunting and watch shops, etc.

Since 1920, all buildings on the even side of the street have been occupied by state security agencies. In the 1930s, large-scale construction began on a complex of existing and currently FSB buildings, which occupy an entire block. In 1979, the FSB building was built on the odd side of the street.

On the rest of Bolshaya Lubyanka Street, buildings of the 17th-18th centuries and the end of the 19th century have been preserved. There is a square on the street, formed on the site of the demolished Church of the Presentation of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it is called Vorovsky Square, and a monument to V. V. Vorovsky (the USSR ambassador to the Scandinavian countries, was killed by the White Guards in 1923) was also erected there.

sights

Bolshaya Lubyanka Street in Moscow is the place where the buildings of the NKVD and noble estates, scientific institutions and monastic buildings are closely intertwined. This is a place where almost every house is a landmark with its own destiny.

Sretensky Monastery

It was built in 1397, and in 1930 most of its buildings were destroyed to the ground. In those buildings that have survived, a school was located in Soviet times. The monastery was returned to the church only in 1991. Currently, this is a functioning monastery, on the territory of which a cross is erected in honor of the heroes of the war of 1812 and the victims of the execution of the NKVD in the 30s and 40s. The relics of the great Orthodox saints Seraphim of Sarov, Nicholas the Wonderworker, Mary of Egypt are kept in the temple.

FSB building

The building was built back in 1898, one of the most beautiful and most sinister buildings in Moscow. Initially, the building was a tenement house for an insurance agency, but during the revolution, the premises were occupied by the Cheka. Later, precisely because of the location of their headquarters on Lubyanka, the street became associated with the Chekist structures and caused fear among Muscovites. Currently, the building does not look as sinister as before, but legends and rumors still circulate around it.

Manor Orlov-Denisov

This building housed the stone chambers of Prince Dmitry Pozharsky in the 16th century. At the beginning of the 18th century, the main house was rebuilt, placing the Mint in it.

In 1811 Count F. Rostopchin became the owner of the estate.

In 1843, the mansion was bought by Count V. Orlov-Denisov (hero of the war of 1812), who rebuilt the building by adding two outbuildings.

Cathedral of the Presentation of the Icon of the Mother of God of Vladimir

The cathedral was built in the 17th century on the site of the temple (built in 1397). The cathedral was built at the expense of the king Fedor III in honor of the raid of Tamerlane's troops.

City estate of the architect V. I. Chagin

The building was built in 1892 and modified according to the project of the new owner - Russian and Soviet architect V.V. Chagin. The house has luxurious Venetian windows on the 1st floor, and arched windows on the 2nd. The building currently houses a restaurant and office space. The object belongs to the regional monuments of architecture.

City estate of E. B. Rakitina - V. P. Golitsyn

The building was built in the 18th century as the city estate of the Rakitins, in 1856 V.P. Golitsyn became the owner of the estate, in 1866 - P.L. Carloni, and in 1880 the Land Bank began to own the house. Yu. V. Andropov was born here in 1914.

The new building of the FSB

The new house designed by Paul and Makarevich was built in 1983. Previously, on the territory of the headquarters building were the possessions of Prince Volkonsky, then Khilkovs, Golitsyns. The new building forms a square with outbuildings, where the entire management team FSB of Russia.

Solovetsky stone

In the fall of 1990, a memorial sign to the victims of political repression was erected on Lubyanka Square. The boulder was brought from the Solovetsky Islands, on whose territory a special purpose camp was located and where political prisoners were kept.

Former house of Lukhmanov

The building was built in 1826 by order of the merchant Lukhmanov. During the years of the revolution, the building was the headquarters of the Cheka, until 1920 F. E. Dzerzhinsky sat here. At the moment - a monument of culture.

How to get to Bolshaya Lubyanka street

Moskovskaya Street stretches from southwest to northeast, between Lubyanskaya Square and Sretenka Street. You can get to Bolshaya Lubyanka Street by metro, get off at the Lubyanka or Kuznetsky Most stations.

How Moscow streets were named

In the 17th century, the Streltsy Settlement of the Stremyanny Regiment settled here, and in the 19th century, Lubyanskaya Square received its current shape. Then it was a kind of exchange cabbies. And this is not surprising: from 1835 to 1934 in the center of the square there was a water-folding fountain designed by I.P. Vitali, where, in the absence of running water, Muscovites could draw water, and the coachmen could water the horses. There were 5 such fountains in the city. Now the fountain can be seen at the building of the Presidium of the Academy of Sciences on Leninsky Prospekt.

Cab drivers filled all the surrounding establishments of the Lubyanka, and the most popular was "Uncle Kuzya" with tin fish at the entrance. This eatery stood in place, "and the hit there was studen.

It's good to lie on your belly
On the threshold of Uncle Kuzi!

Until 1934, the revered chapel of Panteleimon the Healer of the Vladimir Gates stood on Lubyanka Square. It was the height of a four-story building, and there were always crowds of people nearby. They came to receive healing from the relics of the Great Martyr Panteleimon, brought to Moscow from Athos in 1866. But in 1932 the chapel was closed, and after 2 years it was demolished along with it. In 1998, the Nautilus shopping center was built on this site according to the project of A. Vorontsov.

Also on Lubyanka Square was a cemetery at the Varsonofevsky Monastery, where the rootless, the poor and suicides were buried. In the basement of the "dead" barn there was a pit with ice, where the bodies of unknown dead were put. Twice a year the priest served a memorial service for the dead, and they were buried in a common grave.

In 1958, a monument to the "Iron Felix" by Yevgeny Vuchetich was erected on Lubyanka Square.

Dungeons and secret passages of Moscow

By that time, she already bore the name of Dzerzhinsky. The size of the sculpture was in harmony with the size of the square, and the weight of the monument without a pedestal was 11 tons.

"Iron Felix" stood for 30 years and 3 years, and after an unsuccessful attempt by the State Emergency Committee to remove Gorbachev from power in 1991, the monument was dismantled. This became a symbolic end of the Soviet era, so it is not surprising that the sculpture bore traces of vandalism for some time.

Now the monument is exhibited in the park of arts, ”and a flower garden has been laid out. The issue of landscaping the square has already been raised many times: it was proposed to put another monument there or arrange a fountain. But so far, things haven't moved forward.

They say that...... shortly before the revolution, the archaeologist Stelletsky carried out excavations in the basement of the Church of the Grebnevskaya Mother of God on Lubyanka Square. It was demolished overnight in 1935. Stelletsky discovered underground passages to the cellars of the Lubyanka and legendary building Chekists. Two secret passages with stone bags and torture chambers were also found during the construction of an underground KGB garage not far from the place where the temple stood. And the employees of the KGB Computing Center, which was built on the site of the church, complained about sounds coming from the ground and mysterious luminous reflections.
... under the monument to Dzerzhinsky there was a bunker for executions, which has survived to this day.