This is certainly not a hookah from a bicycle pump, but my enlightenment is getting closer and closer, and therefore here is another concept of masturbation. The idea was born last year: Lake carbon summer shoes were so summery that already at +1 feet they quickly gave oak, regardless of the speed of twisting. A visit to the shops led to disappointing conclusions: warm shoes started from eight thousand so.
Throwing out eight pieces for a thing that you will use 10-15 times a year at best is too much for an aeronautical engineer. But there are plenty of ways out even if you've been eaten. The first is not to ride in the winter. The way out is bad, because if there is no ice and snow, then why not train in a deserted frozen park? The second is to ride in ordinary boots. But after contact pedals it is very sad and uninteresting. There are still a lot of options for illegal mining of goodies, but we will leave them aside as law-abiding citizens.
I chose, as Monty Python said, something completely different. At home, there were wonderful Fila M90 rollers with a collapsed boot (the mounting points of the frame fell out). The bottom of the boots was carbon fiber and it only remained to figure out how to screw spikes to it.
The spikes are usually screwed to special steel platforms laid on the inside of the boot. Finding these platforms turned out to be a non-trivial task, and yet in one of the stalls in Sokolniki they were found for either 200 rubles or 300 rubles - I don’t remember already. Work boiled over. All references to the mounting pads were cut off from the rollers - the sole became even. The holes were filled with poxypol. 4 holes were drilled for the embedded pads, the pads were pushed in, the spikes were screwed on.
(now the spikes have been removed - only the holes for them remain)
A thick layer of insulation was also glued on the bottom so as not to stomp spikes on the floor. In general, on the street -12 - it's time to break in. I'm leaving. I feel like a king! Heat! To the waterfront park. The training began, I got on the regime, I twist. Half an hour is a normal flight. But at the 45th minute, SUDDENLY, my legs became VERY cold ... And somehow at once. U-turn, home, legs under hot water ....
The debriefing showed that it was necessary to seal the ventilation (you don’t have to be a cap here, but because I wanted to test it sooner, I went without sealing).
There was also a worse problem: the top bucket periodically clung to the bike frame and threatened to scratch it. The buckle was removed, it remains to replace it with a thin strap. And then it snowed! Everything turned out to be unnecessary.
Ski-ski-ski!
And for skis, I have two pairs of boots - the old Russian X-3 and the new X-9. The old ones were scattered in places, in places they were killed (the firmware of the cafe flew off) - in general, they were used only to ride someone on skis. I tried to ride in them - in addition it turned out (after some new bots) that the piece of iron was worn out there and they backlash decently. Ride them in general without joy. It’s a pity to throw it away - after all, they were good, they didn’t even get wet at the marathon on the wet reservoir, they were warm ... In general, they lay with an eye to alteration.
And here is a new cold autumn. Roski are waiting for a new life.
A cursory analysis showed two options for alteration: fill the sole with epoxy and screw the spikes to the resulting thick sole or cut out part of the sole to install the spikes deep. The second option was chosen. The sole was gnawed out with an electric sharpener.
In the photo on the left is a bot with a sawn out sole, on the right is still a whole
It turned out that the sole of the ski boot consists of different materials and that it is propylene almost to the holes. But this is bullshit. After the sole comes a heat-insulating insole (not to be confused with the usual removable insole that goes further) - it is hard, thick (about 5 mm) and tightly attached to the bot. But do not screw spikes to the stubs of the sole ...
There were two options: tear off the carbon thread somewhere and screw it to the carbon fiber, or make aluminum pads and screw it to them. Sheet aluminum was at hand, which determined the development of the process. A plate was cut out of winged metal (with an ordinary hacksaw), holes were drilled in it for spikes and under additional mount in the nose.
The whole thing has been screwed together and tested by the brave foot of the designer-your-tester. Everything was fastened and quilted, the metal platforms were not felt after installing the insoles.
It remained to make the second bot and glue the plates to the soles with some kind of heat-insulating glue.
Friends advised to mix Moment (on polyurethane) with rubber filings - a mixture with good adhesion and poor thermal conductivity should have been obtained (because a considerable amount of air was also mixed with the rubber powder - an excellent heat insulator drag.
Rubber filings were obtained by sawing out the soles of an old slipper on the same sharpener. In the process, the sharpener died for a long time (I think the brushes are already 15 years old without repair) and the missing rubber dust was taken from polyurethane dust left over from sharpening roller wheels. It's useful sometimes not to clean everything clean =). At the moment, the boots look like this and are waiting for testing.
It was not possible to hide the spike deeper than the plane of the sole - to build up the sole is the next stage. Perhaps not necessary. In general, I accept orders to convert your ski boots into cycling shoes. The reverse transformation is not planned yet =).
Dismantling ski boots
What for? To understand how it works, what it consists of and, most importantly, how shoes can be given individuality. As an example, let's take a look at the classic boot.
1
This one, for example (photo 1). Models can be quite different from each other. Have different quality plastic, have the necessary, and often useless bells and whistles. For example, the walking-skating mode, the stiffness adjustment “tumbler” and other things that, by the way, do not improve the performance of the boot at all, but increase its visual appeal and cost. But now is not about that.
Let's start disassembly. The reverse process, as everyone knows, is sometimes a difficult task. So let me break it down and you can see.
Completely unfasten the clips, dissolve the strap (Velcro strap). We take out the liner (inner boot; liner).
Shown here is one of the extraction options. We make a neat movement with the left hand towards ourselves, with the right hand away from ourselves. We make sure that the heel of the liner is not damaged by catching on something. And, as a rule, there is something to cling to.
The interior was removed unharmed. It can be with or without lacing; thermoformable and not; with a fur edge and, at a glance, quite unpretentious. One way or another, the task of the liner is to fill the space between the foot and the plastic shell. Not always, but you can find an insole in it (picture 5). It is this insole that is sometimes changed to an individual one.
The set of boots may include thin (up to 1 mm) liners cut out along the perimeter of the standard insole. They propose to regulate the fullness of the boot, constructing a certain layered cake from insoles. By itself, in my opinion, a good option to achieve the desired fixation of the foot. True, it is applicable only within reasonable limits and not in all cases. If you need to add fullness, the layers are removed, up to the standard insole. And they ride without it at all.
In photo 6 - a baking liner with a “smell” (emphasis on the second syllable) instead of a tongue. There are baking liners with a tongue. These liners do not sit on the leg on their own. They should be "baked", warming up to the required temperature.
There are also filler liners. Here the idea is simple. A liquid foam composition is poured into the liner through special tubes, something similar to a building one (such as Macroflex). After polymerization, an inner boot is obtained, repeating the contours of the ankle to the subtleties.
All of these options are good in their own way. But they have both pros and cons. Unfortunately, there is no panacea. Not in this case. The main thing is that the liner, together with the insole, as a structural element, is able to give the boot a certain individuality. In addition, the inner boot can be replaced with a non-standard one. Sometimes it makes some sense. However, in the event that the whole leg, or with its “outstanding” places, seeks to “push the boundaries” of the plastic shell, it is better not to expect miracles from the liner.
Warmth and comfort - the liner is soft and plump. Correct (without distortion) transmission of movement to the ski - the liner is thin (sometimes like a rag) or hard (like a jellied one). The comfort and performance of boots have been in conflict for many years. Unfortunately, this happens often in alpine skiing.
Go ahead. Consider the plastic shell of a boot, or plastic for short.
In the classic layout, the plastic shell consists of two parts. Let's conditionally call the upper part "shaft", let the lower part be "galosh". If you make boots to order, the bootleg can be typeset. In some models, plastic has constructive wisdom that does not change the essence.
The top and bottom of the boot are connected to each other by a pair of hinges (arrow in photo 9). The swivel can be equipped with an eccentric for adjusting the lateral inclination of the shaft (canting). Photo 10.
The node looks like this.
Or so. There are other options. As there are bots without any options for adjusting the canting at all. For example, entry-level models. On some sports boots, oddly enough, the canting adjustment node is also missing. In sports, these tasks are especially relevant, but they are solved by other methods. Setting up canting, or camber, is a separate issue. We'll talk about this later.
There are several adjustment options for tilting the shaft in the frontal direction.
Such a wedge, installed between galoshes and bootlegs, is one of them (photo 15). If the boot model provides for such an adjustment, then the wedges are included in the delivery.
The kit may include other elements that act on the principle of a wedge.
In picture 16 we see a wedge that can be used to increase the coverage of the calf in the upper part of the shaft. Usually it's already in place. Take it off or leave it on, it's up to you. The part is called the rear spoiler. There is, as an option, and the front, but it is used very rarely. Bots are usually not equipped with them.
In photo 17 heel wedge (thrust plate). The heel counter, if desired, is installed under the liner in order to increase the degree of fixation of the heel. Both of these wedges can be used to fine-tune the skier-boot-ski system relevant to speed disciplines. They also have a chance to unbalance the skier. Use wedges, therefore, be careful.
Let's take a look inside the plastic.
In the depths (photo 18) we see another insole. I call it the main, or "base". And not by chance. In my opinion, the base should be located in a plastic shell tightly, stably and without backlash. Why? More on this later.
With the arrow (on the left), I indicated a strange molded collar, which often digs into the corresponding bone from the outside of the foot. The purpose of this element is not clear to me. It's not hard to remove it. Which is what I usually do. I want to give this advice. Before turning to a bootfitter for help, carefully inspect the plastic of your bot for the quality of the casting, pay attention to the connecting bolts and rivets. They may well take more space than required. Check if the main insoles are reversed. Unfortunately, for unknown reasons, this happens. And even in new shoes.
In photo 19, the dotted line is clearly visible. If you cut the plastic of the galoshes along it, the boot will eventually become softer. If, after “cutting” into the resulting cut (indicated by an arrow), a spacer is adjusted, then the original stiffness can be partially restored to the boot. If the spacer is made movable (with the ability to move fixedly along the cut), then the rigidity of the bot can be adjusted. I am in no way advocating such action. This is just an illustration on the topic "ABOUT DOPAH". In the same photo below, mortgages are visible. It is here that the heel of the liner has a habit of clinging during the disassembly of the boot. These mortgages are the counterpart of quite correct bolts,
which are visible in this picture. Such a system blocks the operation of the hinges, forcing only the plastic of the shell to work for deflection. If it were necessary to increase the stiffness index of this particular bot, I would put an additional pair of joints here. (Photo below).
Of course, with such a design, the main condition for the successful operation of the system is the quality of the plastic. It is for this reason that the stiffness of the boots is adjusted in this way only on the upper models, including sports ones.
Now back to the base (main insole). Each shoe has its own base. Even in the case when it is not there, in the sense it is not pulled out of the shell. It would be better if the base can be removed and worked with.
Approximately as shown in photos 22, 23. The point is that the leg can be set to the required level either by increasing the base, or vice versa, by sawing off. This "adjustment" provides an additional opportunity to play with the fullness of the boots, and not only. It is clear that the one-piece construction of the rigid foam base (photo 24, 25),
at least for filing would be preferable. For freeride, jumping disciplines, the base is made of relatively soft foam, or with a soft heel. Photo 26 shows a soft base. In any case, under the foot you want to feel exactly the BASIS, and not an element that has some mobility in space. Otherwise, what is the point, for example, of stabilizing an individual insole? Of course, if there is a need for the latter. I must say that an individual insole is a very accurate product. Therefore, its location on the base without deformations and distortions (photo 27) has a certain meaning.
There is nothing more interesting inside the plastic shell. We will perform an "external examination" of the patient.
We may be interested in information about the shoe. As a rule, the stiffness index is indicated on the plastic. This very index is pure convention, and speaks more about the declared level of the bot than about its real rigidity. In practice, boots with one index, but different models, manufacturers will not seem equally tough if you hang on the tongues.
There is other information on the bot block. Usually on the heel (photo 28).
275 mm - boot last length. This value is important when installing fasteners. Sometimes it is confused with the length of the foot, which should not be done. There will be confusion, and the crepes will be placed incorrectly. In order to avoid misunderstandings, it is better to come to the installation with specific boots.
23/23.5 - bot size. This is the length of the foot in centimeters. The galosh is cast in increments of 1 cm (size). Halves in amateur boots are selected by the filler of the inner boot. In sports bots, there are no halves at all, which often creates additional difficulties in choosing and subsequent fine-tuning. Shaft and here and there can be cast at once for several sizes.
Clips are an important element of the boot. Together with the combs, they are responsible for the degree of tightening of the bot. They are counted from the bottom up. Those. the top pair will be the fourth (in our version). How many should there be? Two, three, four, or five? The main thing is not to be alone. If the legs are not problematic, it doesn't matter how much. If there are problems, then four-, five-clip bots are preferable. In case of their subsequent fine-tuning.
Our boot has all metal clips, “micro-adjustable”. The second clip has the ability to put as many as three positions. This is good. There are options for rearranging the third and fourth combs. Also good. On simpler models, an upper comb with a quick-change function is sometimes installed.
Photo 29 shows only a few clip options. With the arrows, I pointed to "undesirable". They do not have a micro-fitting function, which is bad. And plastic is not the best material in clip making. Metal ones will last longer. In the event of a clip breakage, it can be replaced, even if it is similar. Just like a comb. It is enough to address this question to the right place. If, as usual, the trouble happened at the wrong time, you can use high-quality adhesive tape as a “reserve”. It's a chore, of course, to wind it on every skating, but ... as an option.
If we continue the topic of repair, it is worth touching on other elements of the boots.
This Velcro strap is called a strap, sometimes a booster. Although the Booster is structurally different from the strap.
The photo below shows exactly what. By the way, the booster is set here, as it were, the other way around. It is more convenient for the owner to get to the "crocodile".
You can clearly see the edge of the front spoiler in the photos. It was discussed above.
Meanwhile, the functions of the booster and strap are similar. The element can be replaced, even if it is not original. If necessary, the strap can be increased.
Photo 34 shows in which cases, or repair by replacing the Velcro. Unfortunately, it is not durable.
I don’t even know what to call this part of the structure (photo 35, 36). Either "soles", or "heels". It means that it is subject to replacement in case of wear, by analogy with civilian shoes. But it's not. In the form of spare parts, these things are not included in the delivery set. Separately for service are not delivered. It is impossible to pick up an analogue, since the part is particularly original. Why? Think for yourself. It is especially worth considering for those who like to wander in boats on bare asphalt, to conquer rocky ledges.
The sole of the boot (block) can be without frills. Some top and all sport models use a "solid" last. For all its simplicity, it is she who allows you to feel complete control over the skis, as it is resistant to deformation at maximum loads. And not only for this reason.
The box might look like this. The photo clearly shows the "holes" that are needed when installing additional lifting plates (lifters).
Or so. Holes for screws are marked here, with which the plates will actually be attached.
A one-piece block complete with lifters, in contrast to the usual, hollow one (photo 41), makes it possible to fine-tune the wheel alignment of sports boots.
After installing the lifting plates, the welts are calibrated with a milling cutter. As shown in photo 42. We will analyze the subject of wheel alignment adjustment separately in the next article. Now it is important to understand what they are talking about when they talk about boots designed for milling. And what is actually milled there.
Well, perhaps that's all. Assemble the boots in reverse order. I hope it turned out interesting, perhaps even informative.
Don't be too hard on the quality of the photographs. I'm a beginner photographer, Actually, like a writer.
Alexander Vasilevsky
What does shoe sole repair have to do with construction? The most immediate thing is that you can’t build much barefoot. Therefore, work shoes can be safely called a tool that, sometimes, needs to be repaired. Often used shoes goes to the trash can, although it may well still serve as work shoes. Because it's not that important to her. appearance The main thing is that it is comfortable and warm.
After a couple of seasons of intensive use, the soles of winter fur boots were slightly wrinkled, and it became slightly uncomfortable to walk in them for a long time. For some reason, my hand did not rise to throw away a rather strong pair of leather shoes. Having discarded the last doubts, he boldly tore out the cardboard insoles from the shoes, especially since they were glued only along their perimeter.
In most modern shoes, the soles in the inside have the form of vertical cells formed by thin molded partitions that serve to cushion when walking. From the load over time, the walls of the cells are crushed, and the heel with the toe falls, which causes inconvenience during movement.
There are three ways out of this situation:
- Thank the old boots for their faithful service and buy a new pair.
- Take the shoes to a repair shop for a complete replacement of the soles.
- Repair the soles yourself with straight hands and a simple tool.
This is not the first time I have chosen the third option. An hour of work and in the hands of almost new shoes, fitted to individual characteristics and needs. To restore the soles, you will need a simple tool (knife and scissors) and old slippers. I don’t know what they are called correctly, but I think everyone has them - summer ones made of porous material, either rubber, or foamed polyurethane.
Tried to apply different materials, but it is slates that give the best effect - after all, they are just designed for the load from the heels during long walking. Microporous rubber is harsh, tourist mats, on the contrary, are too soft, they quickly wrinkle.
Using a knife from old slippers, I cut out cubes (sometimes straight parallelepipeds) slightly larger than the size of the cells and simply insert them into the cells by friction. Their upper edges form inner surface soles, which can be formed taking into account individual predilections (like an orthopedic insole).
In the front of the sole, the manufacturer of these boots depicted the sea in the form of wavy lines - well, it’s beautiful, but you can’t insert cubes. Therefore, I simply cut off a flat leaf from an old slipper and cut out a part from it, designed to eliminate the deflection of the insole under the knuckles. I glued this plate to the insole with ordinary double-sided tape - it holds perfectly on shift, and hardly anyone will tear it off.
For safe skiing, it is important to have reliable, high-quality equipment. Boots are an important part of the equipment, from which not only comfort, but also the health of the athlete is curled. With active skiing, especially in the style of short track, virtuoso turns, sports shoes quickly break.
Repair ski boots- it is a costly business, and you need to find good master. However, some problems can be solved independently.
This is a common problem among skiers. Often it occurs at the height of the season due to heavy workload. The sole can come off completely or just the toe.
You can repair it yourself with the help of small screws, glue and nuts. Connect the back first. If you have bindings without holes, then make several holes at the junction with the shoes. Insert nuts into them with a cap down. Twist them inside the boot. The nose is repaired in the same way.
You can strengthen the connection with shoe glue. Clean and degrease the soles first. Gluing is an additional procedure to fastening with nuts.
The clasp came off: how to fix it yourself
Careless use or a sharp jerk can damage the clasp. Often, it is made in the form of Velcro. In this case, to repair your skis with your own hands, you will need sewing supplies - a strong thread, a thick needle and a dense fabric.
With a complete break into 2 parts, you need to connect them with a piece of prepared fabric. If the clasp is torn off the ring, then we attach it also, with the help of fabric. If the special ring has been lost, you can use the wire. However, this is a temporary option, as such a clasp will quickly break.
Spare parts can be found in professional stores to help restore.
Fixing the rear foot brace
This plastic element is extremely important, it is present in all expensive models shoes. This allows you to securely fix the leg in the heel area, preventing injury.
But his problem is that he often leans back from the boot itself. To fix it, buy 2 bolts with a small diameter. Drill holes in the fixture. Using bolts, connect the bar to the boot, tighten them from the inside.
Help with pins
When a pin breaks, skiers face three problems:
- The plastic that holds the pin loosens or wears away and it starts to dangle.
- Completely detaches from the place of attachment.
- The pin was bent or dented while riding.
The first 2 difficulties can be solved with epoxy glue, tape and a file. First, with the help sandpaper(it is better to take a small one) gently clean the place that will be glued. Insert the pin in place, secure it with tape, and fill it with glue. Let dry for a day, remove excess glue with a file. To remove the tape will have to try.
It is possible to repair the curvature of the pin if the fastening strength is not greatly affected. To do this, you need to make a mandrel by tapping on both sides with a hammer.
Repair of snowboard boots is carried out in the same way as for ski boots. However, snowboarders may experience problems such as rust on fittings, worn seams, loose lacing. In case of problems with a replacement part is needed. Independent attempts to fix it will not return the previous functions, and riding can become dangerous.
Careful operation, timely cleaning and proper storage in the off-season will avoid many problems with ski equipment.
Shoes are one of the most important parts of your outfit. From her right choice and the quality of performance depend on the comfort and health of the user. Sometimes you have to change several pairs of shoes before you can find the perfect one, not to mention the fact that the purchase new shoes almost always a financial event for the outdoor enthusiast. That's why it's so important to extend the life of your shoes. proper care and timely repair.
The following advice will be valid both for classic trekking shoes made of full-cut leather with a minimum of seams, and for lighter models made using wear-resistant textiles. Our material is based on the experience of experts from the American magazine Backpacker and the advice of experts from McNett, a manufacturer of repair products for clothing and equipment designed for outdoor activities.
Backpacker- one of the world's most authoritative publications dedicated to outdoor activities. The journal has been in print since the spring of 1973. In each issue you can find travel reports, equipment reviews and helpful tips. Since the early 1990s, the magazine has been publishing its Equipment Guide twice a year, in which the Backpacker Editor's Choice award is awarded to the most interesting and best pieces of clothing and equipment. In addition to the magazine, the publishing house publishes small brochures on tourism topics, - descriptions of interesting hiking trails or useful tips. 
When repairing shoes, you should not use universal superglues, since their joints do not have the necessary elasticity. The basis of your kit will be polyurethane glue. This is due to a number of its positive properties:
- such a composition is characterized by high fastening strength;
it swells significantly when hardened, which allows it to penetrate into porous substances (leather, EVA foam) and securely fasten them;
high adhesion allows the use of such a composition when gluing leather, rubber and textiles with polyurethane processing, which are actively used in the manufacture of trekking shoes; water resistance; high elasticity of the obtained adhesive joint, including at sub-zero temperatures;
high wear resistance.
In the American and European markets, the most popular and reputable products of this kind are McNett Freesole and Shoe Goo. They are actively used and recommended by both experts from leading publications on tourism and independent reviewers. Sometimes a polyurethane sealant can be used in repairs - this is usually for bonding textile materials. In this case, the most universal remedy can be considered McNett Seam Grip, which is also used in sealing the seams of awnings and backpacks, as well as in the repair of inflatable travel mats and sleeping bags. Any other polyurethane-based adhesive - Anaes, Desmocoll, Sekunda - can replace Freesole and Seam Grip. But, as practice has shown, such analogues do not have the same versatility of use and are only suitable for gluing the sole and upper elements of the shoe.
Second important element Your shoe repair kit will have a strong adhesive tape, which is useful for bonding adhesive surfaces in the repair field.
To achieve maximum bond strength, thorough cleaning and degreasing of the surfaces to be bonded is essential. This is where alcohol-based cleaning wipes come in handy. As a rule, they are packaged in individual packages and weigh almost nothing. They can be found both as part of ready-made repair kits (for example, Therm-a-Rest Instant Field Repair Kit), and in pharmacies.
How to seal holes in shoes?
Sometimes, as a result of intensive use, small holes may form on the fold of the boot in its toe part. This is a fairly common phenomenon for shoes with textile uppers.
Thoroughly clean the area around the damage to remove dirt and dust. The smallest particles from the fold line are well removed with a toothbrush. For best results when cleaning, it is advisable to use an alcohol-based cloth - it will degrease the surface. Then extrude the Seam Grip and spread it over a large area over and around the hole. The polymer is quite flexible and forms a sealed seam over the damaged area. Drying will take 10-12 hours.
A layer of Seam Grip glue bridges a tear in the flex of a Salomon Wings Sky GTX boot (photo courtesy of Backpackers Complete Guide to Outdoor Gear Maintenance and Repair)
Shoe sole repair
If you notice the delamination of the top of the boot along the edge of the sole, then it is most advisable to stop this for another early stage, without waiting for the boot or sneaker to “request porridge”.
Using a flathead screwdriver or other tool with a similar profile, you need to carefully and thoroughly remove the dirt and debris that has accumulated between the sole and the top of the boot. A toothbrush can serve as an additional help at this stage. The more thorough the cleaning, the stronger the adhesive bond will be.
Next, fill the syringe with Freesole or Seam Grip polyurethane sealant. Then squeeze it straight into the gap between the sole and the top of the boot along the entire length of the peeling area. The syringe is necessary for deeper penetration and precise distribution of the adhesive, so if it is not available, you can use a clean screwdriver or wand.
Tighten the sole and upper of the boot tightly with strong adhesive tape. In some problem areas, such as the toe, additional pressure will be required for effective bonding. To create it, you can use a pencil or a stick tied with adhesive tape. It will take 10-12 hours for the polymer to dry.
If the sole has peeled off, then it is necessary to clean and degrease the surfaces to be glued as much as possible. Therefore, in addition to removing mechanical impurities, it is important to use an alcohol wipe. Next, you just need to fill the entire cavity of the sole with shoe glue and squeeze it tightly with the top of the boot. For complete drying in this case, much more time is required - from 12 to 48 hours. The glue will inevitably squeeze out of the sole - if the aesthetic side of this moment confuses you, then its largest fragments can be carefully cut off after hardening.
The example illustrates the repair of the Asolo Stinger GTX boots, which was carried out by Melanie Robinson, one of the expert testers of Backpacker magazine. The photo clearly shows the consequences of an untimely repair of a peeling outsole - part of the EVA foam midsole, on which the cushioning functions lie, crumbled while walking
If the heels of the shoes are worn out
Many hikers experience increased heel wear on the soles of their shoes due to the nature of their gait. This is especially frustrating in situations where the rest of the boots are still in good condition, and their replacement is hardly justified. In this case, the following method will help to extend the service life.
Place a piece of thin tape around the perimeter of the heel. The formed edge will not allow the Freesole glue to spread, which needs to fill the cavity that has appeared as a result of the wear of the sole.
In order for the outsole in this area to be as even as possible, it is important to carefully distribute the polymer and place the boots on the most even surface. It will be possible to use the repaired shoes only after 48 hours, after the adhesive has completely cured.
Of course, such a sole does not differ in the same strength as the factory one, however this method allows you to extend the life of the sole for at least one season. In order for the glue not to contrast in color with the black sole, you can use the McNett set with Freesole glue and Color Sync Black.
Applying toe protection
A significant part of modern trekking boots have rubber toe protection. If there is no such element on your pair of shoes, and the skin in this place suffers from external influences, then you can apply it yourself. Here is the method recommended by experts from McNett.
First, clean the toe of the boot and stick a strip of thin tape, which will serve as a border for the polymer application area. Next, sand the smooth leather surface with fine-grit sandpaper. The surface will become matte. Treat it with an alcohol wipe and remove the debris formed from the emery. Next, using a sponge, apply and spread the Freesole adhesive over the entire surface you have treated. Remove the tape after 30 minutes. The adhesive forms a smooth waterproof glossy surface. The final drying will take about 12 hours.
An alternative to this method is to apply a layer of shoe wax to the toe, such as Holmenkol Natural Wax. This method is not durable, but at the same time does not violate the aesthetic component, which is so important for many users.
Care of trekking boots
Timely cleaning of footwear significantly increases the term of its operation. Dust particles and dirt are an abrasive that gradually destroys both textiles and leather. Shoes should be cleaned after every hike.
First, take out the laces - they can be thrown into the washing or dishwasher. Next, just wet the shoes with a sponge. Water will dissolve impurities. When cleaning, use a non-corrosive detergent composition such as dishwashing detergent. This process is greatly facilitated by specialized products that are sold in the form of a spray or cleaning gel, such as Grangers Fabsil Footwear Cleaner or Nikwax Footwear Cleaner Gel. When cleaning, follow the manufacturer's instructions. In any case, work should be completed detergent using a brush with soft bristles - a shoe or dish brush will do. For cleaning hard-to-reach places suitable toothbrush. The remains of the cleaning solution must be washed off with water using a sponge. Remember that leather trekking shoes require natural drying - contact with radiators, household heaters, fires and other things should be avoided.
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