Geuchera, geucherella and tiarella in the garden for a colorful palette. Heuchera landing

  • 16.06.2019

"Heucherella "Stoplight"
PHOTO: www.florini.pl

GEICHERELLA- a new hobby of flower growers who collect Heuchera, Tiarella and Tellim.

Geucherella is a hybrid obtained by crossing Geichera and Tiarella heart-leaved and named Geucherella White. And if the leaves and inflorescences of Geyherella are very reminiscent of Tiarella, then the pink color of the flowers, the compactness of the bush and the absence of stolons (whiskers) came from Geykhera. There are a lot of Geyherella varieties that differ in color and leaf shape.

"Heucherella Sweet Tea"
PHOTO: www.sadzonkikwiaty.pl

Geucherella is a perennial herbaceous plant with palmately divided leaves, pointed or rounded, similar to small maple leaves. Paniculate peduncles with very small pink or white flowers rise above the bush up to 20 - 30 cm in height.

One of the most difficult tasks of a florist is to create beautiful flower beds for different zones garden. To get acquainted with ready-made author's ideas for their creation and photographs of the colors used, we suggest watching this video course!

"Heucherella "Daigle Pink""
PHOTO: www.dibora.com.ua

The most popular varieties of Geyherella:

1. "SWEET TEA" (SWEET TEA):

The color of the leaves is bright orange to red, with dark brown veins. The leaves are elongated, strongly cut, rounded.

2. "SOLAR ECLIPSE" (SOLAR ECLIPSE):

The color of the leaves is bronze or red-brown with a bright green or yellowish border. The shape of the leaves is rounded.

3. "GOLDEN ZEBRA" (GOLDEN ZEBRA):

The color of the leaves is bright orange or bright yellow with crimson widely traced veins.


 

"Heucherella Sweet Tea"
PHOTO:
PHOTO: www.selina-m.ru

"Geiherella "Solar Eclipse"
PHOTO:
PHOTO: www.ngb.org

"Geiherella "Golden Zebra"
PHOTO:
PHOTO: www.rusdachi.ru

4. "STOPLIGHT" (STOPLIGHT):

The color of the leaves is bright yellow-green with crimson streaks not to the end of the leaf.

5. "KIMONO" (KIMONO):

Bright green leaves, strongly elongated and pointed, sometimes with a silvery coating. The veins are finely traced in brown.

6. "BERRY FIZ" (BERRY FIZZ):

Dark crimson leaves with bronze and bright pink spots, rounded.


 

"Heucherella "Stoplight"
PHOTO:
PHOTO: www.pic.tvoysad.ru

"Heucherella "Kimono"
PHOTO:
PHOTO: www.urbanjungle.uk.com

"Heucherella "Berry Fiz"
PHOTO:
PHOTO: www.kernock.co.uk

Growing Geyherella - planting and care:

Location:

In the penumbra. It grows poorly in the sun, requires constant moisture, the leaves can burn.

The soil:

Prefers neutral loose fertile soils.

Winter hardiness:

Quite high, but for the winter, like Geicher, it is necessary to mulch, as the rhizome grows up and can freeze. The frost resistance of many new varieties has not been studied, so it is better to cover with non-woven material.

Care:

In spring, it needs mineral supplements. In the spring, wintering leaves may suffer from "physiological drought", so it is advisable to shed the plants for the fastest thawing of the earth and cover them with lutrasil from the sun.

Reproduction:

Dividing the rhizome into rosettes in the spring. At seed propagation sowing self-produced seeds, but seedlings may not retain the characteristics of the mother variety.

Usage:

Quite diverse - in borders and partial shade, coastal zone reservoirs, rock gardens and rockeries. Under large shrubs or on foreground flower beds in partial shade.

Type of geyherella, obtained by crossing tiarella cordifolia with geyhera. Geyherella foliage shape and small size closer to tiarella. But the pink shades of geyherella flowers are more similar to geyhera. In autumn, the foliage of geyherella is brightly colored. The plant forms a dense bush.

Types and varieties of geyherella

Today there are already several varieties of geyherella, differing in the coloring of flowers and leaves.

Geucherella "Bridget Bloom"

Coral-pink flowers, green foliage peduncles 45 cm tall;

Geucherella "Quick Silver"

Silvery-white flowers, leaves brown with ashy bloom, peduncles 60 cm tall;

Heucherella "Rosalie"

Coral-pink flowers, yellowish-green spring leaves darken over time and turn red-brown along all veins.

Geyherella location

When placing geyherella, one should not forget that under natural conditions the plant grows in rocky woodlands. This suggests that neutral or slightly alkaline soils, a sunny or slightly shaded place for geyherella are preferable. The root system needs moisture-intensive soils. If they are porous, light, then open space plants become depressed and die.

Geucherella Care

Top dressing should be carried out twice: at the very beginning of the season and immediately after flowering, when the renewal buds are laid. TO winter period the base of the outlet must be mulched and spud. In the spring, the mulch does not need to be removed, because the lower part is exposed.

The foliage of geyherella is evergreen. Only the snow melts, the foliage evaporates moisture, and in the soil the roots are still “sleeping” and cannot replenish the wasted reserves. If it is clear and dry in spring, a "physiological drought" sets in. This drought can weaken or destroy plantings. There is no need to rush to remove the shelter, this must be done gradually.

Reproduction of geyherella

Vegetative. Transplantation is due to strong growth and exposure of its base. As a rule, under favorable conditions of detention, this falls on the 3rd year of the plant's life. In this case, the "bush" is divided, cut with a knife into parts with rosettes.

For propagation of geyherella, cuttings in the form of rosettes can also be used. They root well in the shade. The division of the bush, it is better to carry out before the flowering of the geyherella, when the plant gains strength and the sockets will have several fresh leaves.

I have been growing flowers and other plants for many years, but until now, one of my favorite perennials are geyhera and geyherella. With their bright and multi-colored leaves, they remind me of gems that “sparkle” in the garden until winter. Even under the snow, they retain their beauty, and in the spring they are the first to open the season. Once settled in your garden, geyhery and geyherella can become its "highlight" and even influence the garden fashion in your area. What are these beautiful girls with such bizarre names?

Geykhera (Heuhera) - a bright star among perennial decorative and deciduous plants. She came to our gardens from North America only 10 years ago and for this a short time fell in love with flower growers and designers. Its evergreen, brightly colored, heart-shaped, rounded leaves form a bush 40 cm high. From June to July, this plant blooms, throwing up flower stalks with inflorescences of small bells. Many people remove flower stalks from these plants, but I always let them bloom. Although geyhers are valued for their leaves, but, nevertheless, flowering makes them more interesting.

There are more than 30 types of geyhera, the most famous of which is the blood-red geyhera (H. Sanguine Engelm.). Recently, many hybrids have been bred with a longer flowering period (from June to August). One of the most popular varieties is Stormy Seas. Its wavy leaves really resemble a storm on the sea.

Do you know that...

The botanical name "Heuhera" was given to the plant in honor of the German professor of botany, Johan Heinrich von Geucher. And in America it is called spotted geranium. The Indians used this plant as a medicine. They applied crushed boiled geyhera roots to wounds and ulcers, and a decoction of the roots was used for fever and diarrhea.

Heuherella (Heuherella) - a hybrid of geyhera and tiarella, is distinguished by long flowering from June to August and an amazing ability not only to maintain its shape throughout the season, but also to become prettier day after day.

Geyherella, like geyhera, boasts unusual variegated foliage (there are leaves with brown-chocolate, purple, green, white and other various patterns). The leaves of the geyherella are strongly dissected, resembling maple leaves. This is what distinguishes it from geyhera with rounded leaves. From tiarella, geyherella inherited a paniculate inflorescence of white, pink or brown flowers resembling stars. The most beautiful variety of geyherella is the Alabama Sunrise variety, which changes the color of its large leaves during the season: in spring they are golden with wine-red veins, in summer they are green with red veins, and at the end of the season they are orange.

Heuchera and geyherella are not inferior in their merits to hosts: they are decorative, changeable during the season, unpretentious, winter-hardy and resistant to diseases. These plants look great at any time of the year and in a small garden, and in large open spaces. Geuchera and geyherella reach their peak of decorativeness in autumn, when many plants already lose their beauty. These beauties are combined with almost any plant, be it flowers, shrubs or cereals. Only from one geykher and geykherella it is possible to make magnificent flower beds - a magical variety of leaf colors allows this! These plants are a real find for both venerable designers and beginner flower growers. Geucher and geyherella are quite easy to grow, but, nevertheless, in order for them to become a true decoration of your flower garden, you need to pay attention to them.

Do you know that…

Geichera repels snails and slugs.

Both inflorescences and leaves of geyhera and geyherella can stand in the cut for more than three weeks!

Basic requirements of geyher and geyherella

"Openwork" shading. These plants are best planted not in an open place, but in a light "openwork" penumbra from bushes and trees. I recommend growing young plants not in a school, but in containers that can be moved from place to place, protecting them from heavy rains or the scorching sun.

Deep drainage. Geichera and geucherella do not tolerate stagnant water, so they need well-drained, moisture-intensive and loose soils.

Moderate nutrition. In the spring, take your time to feed the plant. Wait for new leaves to grow, carefully and gradually removing last year's leaves. And only when the bush is renewed, feed the plants with a solution of complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Kemira (20 g / 10 l). After flowering, repeat feeding, and this will be enough. It is better to underfeed geyher than to overfeed.

Moderate watering. In hot summer weather, these plants need moderate watering, without extremes. Try not to get water on the leaves, otherwise, under the influence of sunlight, burns will appear on them.

Mulching. To maintain soil moisture, mulch the bases of the rosettes of leaves annually. This must also be done because the bush eventually begins to rise above the ground.

Hilling. bushes in autumn geyhery and geyherella needs to be rounded up. But do not cut their leaves, as they and the stems contain nutrients for wintering. In the spring, some plants are often "squeezed" out of the soil. Bury them and pour warm water over them.

Shelter fallen leaf. Light-leaved varieties and young plants should be well covered with fallen leaves before wintering, but not tightly, otherwise they may rot.

Removal of old leaves and flower stalks. During the whole season it is necessary to remove old, dry and damaged leaves. And after flowering, you need to remove faded flower stalks as soon as possible, which not only take away the strength of the plant, but also worsen its decorative effect. Some flower growers generally prefer not to let the geyhers bloom, this allows them to keep the beautiful shape of the bush longer.

These plants are practically disease free, but sometimes stagnant water or very acidic soil can cause root rot. In this case, cut off all the dead parts, and urgently cut the healthy part of the stem or outlet.

Regular transplant. Unfortunately, geykher retain the decorativeness of the outlet for 2-3 years, after this period, as a rule, the bush breaks up and exposes the middle. This is a signal that the plant needs to be divided and transplanted. By the way, geyherella are more durable than geyhera, and can grow in one place without division and cuttings for about 4-5 years.

Growing geyher and geyherella

Reproduction by dividing the bush. These plants are most often propagated by dividing the bush or by rooting lateral rosette cuttings, which take root quickly in sufficiently moist soil. It is not recommended to divide the bushes in the fall, as autumn divisions are difficult to root and do not tolerate winter well. It is necessary to start dividing in spring (before flowering) or at the end of summer (after flowering). To do this, dig a bush and divide it into several outlets, while shortening the bare stem to a young tissue, leaving only the “heel”. Shrunken shoots cut to live small brood buds, they are in the axils of the petioles of old dried leaves. Shorten long roots, and carefully cut all areas on the rhizome with signs of decay to a healthy white tissue and powder the cut with crushed charcoal. To speed up the rooting process, you can use the root.

Landing geyher and geyherella

When planting, add any complex mineral fertilizer, such as Kemira-universal and ash, to a planting hole measuring 30x30 cm, since geyhers prefer neutral soils. After planting, water the plants and shade from the sun. After a month and a half, when roots grow in young plants, they can be planted in a permanent place.

Red, lemon, orange, terracotta, purple, purple, brown and all shades of green flaunt on the leaves of various varieties of such a fashionable plant as geyhera.





In the garden, she is given a place of honor, planting several contrasting varieties nearby. Heuchera also looks great as the first row as a lining in a flower bed of perennials or in a mixborder.



It is interesting to make edging from geyher of the same color; or plant alternately, for example, varieties with purple and lemon leaves to create dynamics.
The combination of geyher with spring flowers, such as tulips, gives a special charm.


Heuchera, varieties.

Of interest are such varieties of geyhera as "Delta Down", "Fire Alarm", "Lipstick", "Midnight Raffles", "Red Lightning" and others.


Close relatives of geyhera are geyherella and tiarella, which are very similar to geyhera, but there are still some differences between them. Geichera is larger and develops much faster, but her flowers are less interesting than those of tiarella.


Tiarella has low and pubescent peduncles and more elongated rugged leaves than geyhera. Tiarella blooms in May and looks very gentle, for example, heart-leaved tiarella.



Sometimes collectors prefer to remove geyher inflorescences so as not to spoil the impression of the bush. This technique allows you to keep the bush compact. After flowering, the plants become loose and begin to fall apart.



Geucherella is the result of a cross between geuchera and tiarella. Its difference is pale pink low peduncles. They look especially impressive in varieties with dark leaves.




One of the most beautiful varieties is Golden Zebra, Solar Eclipse and Tapestri.

Heuchera, landing.

Geichera is characterized by rapid growth and a tendency to instant aging of the bush. It must be divided in the third year after planting. Geichera grows up, slowly getting rid of lower leaves. An unsightly stalk is formed, which eventually turns into a palm tree.


Tiarella and geyherella are not subject to stretching, so they can be up to 6 years old in one place, after which they also need to be divided.


As soon as the geucher begins to stretch, it must be transplanted. Do it in the spring, so that the geyher has time to take.


When planting, the bare trunk is deepened. Some varieties of geyher form stepchildren. They are separated and stuck into moist soil, covered with half a plastic bottle on top, that is, they are rooted like ordinary cuttings.


If the geyher is too stretched out or burned in the spring sun, its top is cut off and rooted, like stepchildren.


Geichera, which was planted before July, takes root more readily and faster. The earth is prepared neutral, loose. Fertilizers are not added so that the plant does not age prematurely. Geichera planting which was cloudy, takes root in a new place very quickly.



The plant prefers partial shade, so the best place for her will be planting under the shade of trees, for example in orchard. However, too much shading leads to elongation of the plants. Geichera planting it should be in moderate shade so that the plants are strong and bright.

Heuchera, leaving.

Geuchera and its relatives are plants with wintering leaves, so geuchera requires special care. For the winter, the leaves are not cut, the plants try to mulch with a small layer of earth around the bushes. Heuchera loves care in the form of mulching in the middle of summer.


If the geyher varieties sit together, then for the winter you can put a piece of non-woven material on them. This will save planting in the event of a snowless winter. Most of the geyher are winter-hardy, with the exception of the Caramel variety.


The main danger for them is the spring sun, when the roots are in the frozen ground and are not able to supply food to the leaves. The leaves, in turn, as soon as the snow melted, begin to require nutrients, and without receiving them, they burn out in the sun. To prevent this, a spruce branch is placed on each geyher bush in the fall for shade, and it is removed in mid-May on a rainy day. Heuchera appreciates such care and thanks for the excellent view all summer.


Unlike geucherella, miniature tiarella and geucherella do not burn much in the sun.


In general, geuchera requires minimal care, it only needs spring shading and timely division.


Description: man-made view, obtained from the intergeneric crossing of geuchera with tiarella cordifolia by Bloom breeders. Named white geyherella (Heucherella alba). Geyherella leaf shape and smaller habit closer to tiarella. However, the pink tones of geyherella flowers are more reminiscent of geyhera. In autumn, the leaves of geyherella are brightly colored. Geucherella, like Geuchera, forms a dense bush and does not produce stolons.

Heucherella Viking Ship
Photo of Polonskaya Svetlana

Currently, there are already several varieties of geyherella, differing in the color of flowers and leaves.

"Bridget Bloom" ("Bridget Bloom")-coral-pink flowers, green leaves, peduncle height 45 cm;
"Quick Silver" ("Quick Silver") -silver-white flowers, brown leaves with a gray-ash bloom, height - brown peduncles 60 cm (this variety is referred to as geyher in some sources);
"Rosalie" ("Rosalie")-dark coral-pink flowers, yellow-green spring foliage darkens with time and turns red-brown along the veins, peduncles 45 cm high.

Location: when placing these plants, one must not forget that in nature they grow in rocky woodlands. This means that slightly alkaline or neutral soils, a sunny or slightly shaded place are preferable for these plants. A weak root system requires moisture-intensive soils. If they are light, porous, then in a place open to the sun, the plants look oppressed and often die. Partial shading should be provided in this area. This is not to the detriment of flowering or decorative leaf color.

Care: feeding is carried out twice: at the beginning of the season and after flowering, when renewal buds begin to form. Application rate of full mineral fertilizer - 15-20 g/m 2 . In preparation for winter, the base of the outlet must be mulched and spud. In the spring, the mulch is not removed, as the lower part of the rhizome is exposed.

Just in case, you can recommend shelter for the winter by any nonwoven fabric, because some of the hybrids are less resistant to extreme cold. In addition, if the landings are in a sunny place, there is another problem. The foliage of the plants is evergreen. As soon as the snow melts, the leaves begin to evaporate moisture, and in the soil that has not warmed up after the winter, the roots still continue to “sleep” and are not able to replenish the wasted reserves. If the spring is dry and clear, the so-called "physiological drought" occurs. It can greatly weaken or completely destroy the landing. To prevent this from happening, you should not rush to remove the shelter, you need to do this gradually and, if possible, in cloudy weather. It is not bad to stimulate the root system by shedding the plants with warm water.


Golden Zebra

"Sweet Tea"
Photo Shakhmanova Tatiana

Heucherella "Tapestry"
Photo by Andrey Ganov

"Stopligh"
Photo Zarucheyskaya Natalia

Pirate's Patch
Photo Zarucheyskaya Natalia

Kimono
Photo by Mikhail Polotnov

"Alabama Sunrise"
Photo Shakhmanova Tatiana

"Sunspot"
Photo by Natalia Bykova

"Chocolate Lace"
Photo by Natalia Bykova

Reproduction: vegetative. The need for transplantation is due to the strong growth of the aerial part and the natural exposure of its base. Usually when good conditions content, this occurs at 3-4 years of plant life. In this case, the "bush" is divided by cutting with a sharp knife into parts with several rosettes. The planting hole with an increase of 30x30 cm is filled with soil with the addition of ash and complete mineral fertilizer. These plants, like most mountain plants, do not require an increased dose of fertilizers.

For propagation, you can also use cuttings in the form of separate outlets. They root well in the shade. Both dividing the bush and cuttings are best done before flowering, in May, when the plants gain strength and the sockets will have two or three fresh leaves. Seed propagation does not provide a complete transfer of varietal characteristics.

Tatyana Shapoval "Many-faced strangers" // "In the world of plants" - 2002 - No. 7-8.