Restoration of old and damaged photos. Restoring an old photo in Photoshop

Printed photographs are fragile reminders of important points and past events. Often old photographs are in a single copy, so damage to the photograph can greatly sadden the owner. Paper has been exposed to moisture, water, sunlight and dust for years. Sometimes, if stored incorrectly, even new pictures can become inappropriate. Learn the basic ways to restore photos, learn how to do them at home, and start storing your photos the right way to preserve memories for generations to come.

Steps

Digital restoration of minor damage

Use the correct equipment. To recover photos at home, you will need a quality scanner and image editing software for your computer. For example, you can purchase a photo editor like Photoshop and a scanner that allows you to scan photos in high resolution, which is measured in dots per square inch. The higher the resolution, the more detailed the scanned image will be. In most cases, a resolution of 300 dpi is recommended.

Scan a photo. Place your photo carefully in the scanner and choose to scan in high resolution to capture all the details of the photo. Subsequently, save the finished image as a TIFF instead of a JPEG. The TIFF format will increase the file size, but will provide high detail and image quality. Save the image and open it in a photo editor.

Crop the image. Use the appropriate tool to remove signs of damage from the edges of the photo. The edges of old photographs are often deformed by high humidity or contact with water. If the damage is located around the perimeter of the photo, then cropping will help to quickly solve the problem.

Remove scratches and traces of dust. The Dust and Scratches filter or the Spot Healing Brush tool in Photoshop, or similar tools in other photo editors, make the process of removing imperfections much easier. Zoom in on the image and remove the traces of damage with the mouse cursor. Take your time and zoom out periodically to control the result. The filter will also remove some details, so don't go overboard with this feature.

• Open a new tab with a photo that fits the entire window to see the changes.

1. Repair tears and missing fragments. If the photo has tears, cuts, or missing fragments, use the Stamp tool to recreate parts of the image and damaged areas. Select a tool and select the part of the photo where you want to copy or use information on a mouse click. Move the cursor to the area you want to restore using the copied material.

   Print the image. After restoration, print the photo using an inkjet or special photo printer on glossy photo paper.

   Fix the tears with acid-free adhesive tape. Fix a tear or repair a torn photo with acid-free tape. Ordinary tape or duct tape contains an acidic adhesive that can damage the photo over time. Purchase archival tape or tape with an acrylic adhesive compound from the office supply department or specialty store. Cut off small strips of tape and fix the tears with reverse side snapshot.

   Use patch tape. A torn photo can be repaired with paper tape and acid-free glue. Patch tape is available at art supply stores or office supply stores. Apply a small amount of glue to a strip of paper and press down on the torn area on the back of the photo. Gather up any excess glue with a cotton swab. Leave the photo to dry on a towel front side down and press down with a small book so that the edges do not deform.

2. Create a humidification chamber for photos with warped edges. If old photos are wrapped or deformed around the edges, then a homemade humidification chamber will help solve the problem. The camera will allow you to saturate a dry, fragile photograph with moisture so that the paper at the edges opens and straightens.

   • Type water at room temperature 5-7 centimeters high into a plastic container for storage. Place a wire rack in the container and make sure the top is not submerged. Place the photograph on top of the grille and cover the camera with the lid. Leave for a few hours. Periodically examine the photo and wipe off any drops of water on the paper. When the edges straighten out, remove the photo and leave to dry face up on a towel. Cover the photograph with blotting paper or parchment and press down with a book.

Today we will take a look at one of the most interesting topics in photo editing with Photoshop - photo retouching. Retouching in general is a very exciting activity. It is damn interesting and pleasant when, it would seem, something real and tangible is obtained from a completely worthless, spoiled photograph, a past era, people and destinies appear.

Just recently, one of my acquaintances asked to restore an old family photograph he had found almost a century ago. Her condition, you know, was very far from perfect. Once again, one has to be convinced of the advantage of digital over film, at least in terms of the safety of photographic materials ...

So let's start r retouching photo. The first step is to scan our "old lady". As a rule, almost all old photographs have “scars” on their body - kinks, lack of fragments (for example, lost corners when torn out of albums), just fading and much more. this work possessed all of the above "merits". Photo scanned at 600 dpi. In principle, 300 dpi is quite enough for such work when printing, but for retouching it is desirable to have a higher resolution to reduce distortion. The output file is TIFF format and highly desirable 12 or 16 bits. The contrast during scanning needs to be reduced, then, in the process of processing the photo, we will restore it. It is desirable to scan in RGB mode, even if the photo is black and white. Then choose one of the three channels with the least damage, removing the rest. Generally, the noisiest channel is usually blue. Thus, we get the original monochrome image. Since the file size for a monochrome image is significantly smaller, this greatly speeds up its processing. I highlight two methods of approach to retouching complex photographs.

At first we do the simplest operations, gradually moving to the most problematic areas. At the same time (especially if you rarely do this, from time to time) you “fill your hand” in simple operations, approaching difficult areas already with a lot of experience. And as the simple retouching progresses, the photo begins to improve before our eyes, which is very inspiring for further work. Or we start with the most difficult (more suitable for very experienced users), leaving the trifle “for later”.

Let's focus on the first option retouching photo. Let's try to create some rough plan retouching work, so as not to run around the photo from corner to corner in search of defects. Since there is nowhere else to crop our work, it is necessary to restore the edges of our canvas, eliminate creases and large scratches, try to restore the man’s “torn off” leg, retouch the woman’s face (the most difficult), clean up the remaining trifle, and also need a general exposure correction and final toning.

Of course, you can use different methods of processing photos to restore the edges of the canvas. In this case, I did the following. As you remember, we scanned a photo with a very low contrast, now it will come in handy. The inner cover of the scanner usually has a black backing. If this is not the case, then cover the photo with a black sheet of paper and, if possible, press it more tightly against the glass to even out the creases.
Now the black level on your work will match exactly the scanner substrate when scanning, as you can see in the photo above. Make a copy of the layer (Ctrl + J), then right-click (pen) select Color Range (color range) and select our black outline, where there was no photo. In this case, the Fuzziness slider determines the selection range. Then, selecting a drawing tool, for example a brush, with the B key, pressing the Alt key, select the tone of the drawing tool with an eyedropper on the picture itself. First, select a tone in the floor area (lighter) and paint over the selected black area opposite the floor with it. Then choose a medium tone for the rest of the edge (darker) and paint over the rest of the selected black area. Why do we need such complexity - for the correct operation of our miracle tool Patch (patch).

Select the tool with the J key. This function contains three tools: Patch, Healing Brush and Replace Color, which are switched between themselves with the Shift + J keys. Why is this photo editing tool so good? It allows you to replace the texture of the selected area while maintaining its brightness and color components. I will show this on the example of an enlarged fragment of the floor near the woman's leg.
Let's select with a pen the area that we are going to "heal", this will be the edge of the photo, which we painted over with a tone taken as a sample from the border area of ​​the picture. The main thing is not to rush, following the rule - less is better. Since we need to restore the texture of the floor, we move the selected area with the pen to the area where we will take the texture sample, observing the alignment of the sample with respect to the selected area (in this case, along the gap between the boards). After alignment, raise the pen (release the left mouse button). The result is amazing - no traces of stitching fragments. Similarly, we process the entire area. It should be added that the tool has several modes of operation. Source (source) - in this mode, we select the area that we are treating. Destination (target) - in this mode, we highlight the area that we are treating (sampling texture). When the Transpa-rent (transparency) checkbox is checked, the texture sample affects the transparency of the replaced fragment (it is used quite rarely). I consider the Source mode to be the most optimal and convenient.

The photo processing result shown below was obtained in eight steps. If we had not aligned our missing edge of the photo with the previous selection and tone-on-tone operations with the photo itself, then the brightness of the replaced fragment would change from foreground to black. That is, our photo would have a blurry black border, which is unacceptable. The more accurately you match the tone on the missing edges, the better the final result will be. To get back to some of the "fateful" stages of retouching, I highly recommend creating a Snapshot of these stages. After that, you can safely clear the History palette (history) to release random access memory if you don't have enough.

Similarly, we work with the entire edge. The work is painstaking, but the result is worth it! Creases and large scratches are eliminated in the same way, using the Patch and Stamp tools. Small dots and scratches are easier and faster to remove using the Healing Brush tool (healing brush). The work of the tool is absolutely similar to the previous one and is very similar to the work of the Stamp tool (stamp), familiar to you. The only difference is that the Healing Brush takes only the texture from the sample, and the brightness and color from the “repaired” area. Some features of its application should be taken into account. The Patch and Healing Brush tools have some blurring of the borders relative to the selection outline, so they cannot be used on the borders of sharp brightness transitions - the result of photo processing will not be very successful.
Thus, attempts to remove “on the forehead” damage near the woman’s head with the help of Patch lead to a blurring of the boundaries and a violation of the uniformity of the tone of the replaced fragment. To prevent such results when processing photos on problem areas of sharp tonal transitions, you can first apply the Stamp tool with adjustable border hardness (for more accurate overlay). It is used to separate (expand) the boundaries of transitions, if the fragment being replaced is large enough. If the fragment is small, then you can simply paint over it with the Stamp tool, and then apply Patch in the same place for alignment.

As you can see, the result retouching photo completely different. If you clearly understand the principle of operation of these tools, then success is guaranteed to you!
The next step in processing the photo is to “make” the man’s missing leg (oh, if it were possible in real life…). Before this crucial operation, you need to straighten the background in place of the missing leg, then it will be more difficult to do. We do this with the Patch tool. Now we select his right leg almost to the knee (slightly higher than the missing part and with an allowance around the perimeter). Next, execute the command Feather (feathering) with a radius of about 10 pixels. Copy Ctrl+C and paste on a new layer Ctrl+V. Hold down the Ctrl key (or, more conveniently, the bottom button of our wonderful Wacom pen) and drag the new leg into place, flipping it horizontally so that it becomes the left one! Next, use the levels (but not the transparency of the layer) to adjust the brightness and contrast of the leg so that the transition point becomes invisible. It turned out like this.
Next, with an eraser, with a transparency of 50%, with light pen movements, we erase our allowance along the contour of the new leg to the background and in the places of the folds on the trousers. You can feel like a magician.
Now we take on the most difficult and delicate thing in photo processing - the restoration of a woman's face. Here everything is somewhat more complicated, but not hopeless. The most difficult thing is to restore the eyes and nose area. We will then make the forehead with the usual tools. You can try to "just" draw the eyes, but I'm clearly not an artist, so we won't even try. You can only finish the small details, but no more. It remains to borrow eyes elsewhere, no matter how blasphemous it may sound.
Having carefully studied all the characters in the photograph, I found that her daughter's eyes, in principle, are very similar. This means that our daughter will be a “donor”. Turn on the lasso with the L key, select the area of ​​​​the eyes and nose on the daughter’s face (again with a small allowance), do a feathering of about 10 pixels, copy, paste on a new layer and drag the fragment to a new place. First you need to compare the distance between the eyes with the original. Naturally, in a child it is somewhat less. Therefore, we transform the fragment to the desired size. For accuracy, turn on the grid (Ctrl + "). Then we put our eyes in place.
It remains to work a little with an eraser over the eyebrows and the eyes can be considered finished. The seemingly most difficult operation in photo processing was given to us quite easily. Naturally, in the absence of a "donor" in the original image, you can use another suitable photograph. Everything is in the power of your imagination, the main thing is not to give in to difficulties. Then we act according to the old scenario: “no noise, no dust ...”, that is, we eliminate the remaining minor minor defects.

After we have eliminated all (well, almost all) defects in the image, we need to bring it to good view: raise contrast, tone.
To begin with, we will bring its histogram back to normal using the Levels adjustment layer (levels). In order to produce toning (if necessary), the image must be converted to RGB mode. After that, in the adjustment layer Hue / Saturation we carry out toning. The transparency of this layer can be varied by changing the strength of the toning. We will address the issue of toning in more detail in one of the following issues of the magazine.

The result that you see below took about two hours of working time. I will say right away that my friend was very pleased with the result! .. and brought a bunch of old photos.
In conclusion, I want to say: be as careful as possible about the features of the past. Try, if possible, to bring less new to old photographs, otherwise you will get a “remake”. We have now deliberately considered quite difficult situation when it was necessary to restore the missing elements. But, by doing so, we only once again studied the possibilities of Photoshop tools in photo processing. Before undertaking such work, especially if you are not doing it for yourself, be sure to discuss with the customer possible consequences such a deep restoration. Sometimes it is better to leave some moments as they are, rather than distort or add from yourself - after all, this is history!

Old, reddened from time to time photos have always aroused genuine interest not only among lovers of historical values. After all, they capture the moments of the life of our ancestors. And, although, in the historical and cultural aspect, it is these originals, crumpled and half-worn, that are of the greatest value, in some cases it is rather difficult to get a full idea of ​​who (what) is captured in the picture.

All sorts of software is called upon to help the modern researcher, allowing you to restore the image as much as possible without losing information. So, for example, the capabilities of only one Photoshop editor already allow you to approach this issue creatively, correcting not only all kinds of damage to the photo card, but also restoring an approximate color scheme appropriate for the specific situation.

To begin with, the existing rarity must be scanned and saved the resulting jpeg file.

Having opened the source image in the editor's working window, let's evaluate the complexity of the work ahead. The fact is that the file in question has minor damage (fold lines, partial abrasions and a torn edge). We pay attention to the faded (weakened) photo layer last, since the mandatory color correction will help get rid of the sepia tone.

If there is no part of the face on the portrait photo, then it makes sense to look for some other images of this person. Only in this case, you can count on a reliable final picture.

All attempts to finish the missing (eye, ear, for example) parts of the face, by successively selecting, copying and reflecting (editing \ transformation \ reflect) the selected area - in no way contribute to obtaining a believable portrait.

Without particularly going into the physiological features of the human structure, it is worth noting that symmetrical faces do not exist.

So the file is open.

(click to enlarge)

The next step (mandatory) will be software conversion to another (LAB) image mode. This measure is necessary because the separation of channels in LAB is built according to a different principle than in RGB. And in our case, such a division into an independent brightness channel and two independent (red-green and blue-yellow) color channels from each other, allows us to reduce the brightness of the breaks without touching the color palette at all.

Image conversion to LAB occurs after selecting the appropriate mode in the submenu of the "mode" line of the "image" tab.

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Leave it visible and select the "brightness" channel. Since the main color axes remained hidden, the image is displayed in the working window of the program without a combination of RGB colors, only white and possible grayscale.

To remove cracks and scratches, use the "stamp" tool,

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by defining (clicking the left mouse button while holding down the alt key), as the starting position for copying, a point above the break, on the border of the frame and the image. To avoid abrupt transitions, the “pressure” value should not exceed 50%. Leading the working brush of the tool along the fold line, we get rid of an unwanted defect. In the same way, we remove the remaining scratches and small cracks from the scanned photo.

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We get rid of the cloudy white stripe that fell on both babies using the “dimmer” tool (exposure no more than 15%).

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restoring the visibility of the rest of the channels, we immediately see the difference between the image and the frame (intentionally left unadjusted).

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By the way already known to us, we return to the RGB mode and with the help of the “blur” tool, with an intensity of no more than 20%, we get rid of pixelation and specific grain on the faces.

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The next variation of this tool is "sharpness". Allows you to select the eyes and lips by briefly pressing the left mouse button

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After correcting the texture of the image, through the "image" tab, we translate it into a simplified black and white palette.

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We adjust the exposure, giving the image the necessary sharpness on the borders of black and white.

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Frankly "littered" dark tones, at the bottom of the photo, a torn edge and useless frames - we remove it by cropping the image with the "crop" tool. In fact, the restoration of the rare source can be considered complete.

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Additional processing, which allows you to colorize a black and white picture, also does not present any particular difficulties, but it will take much more time.

To do this, you need to enable editing in quick mask mode under the "selection" tab and select the "brush" tool. Shade, for example, an open area of ​​the skin, excluding eyes and jewelry.

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Uncheck edit under the quick mask and invert the resulting selection. Coloring a selected area can be done in several ways, among the most common is the use of a photo filter (tab "image", submenu of the line "correction")

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and the activation (under selection) of the adjustment layer, with color orientation (in this case, the “overlap” mode is required).

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Selections are created for each part of the image, supposedly different even in midtones. And gradually the whole photo is painted.

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Restoring a print, even one made from color film, is a fairly simple process and is performed by Photoshop's automatic correction tools.

The proposed image clearly shows a color mismatch (most likely due to an incorrectly selected film).

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The section of the "image" tab, which includes autotone, autocontrast and automatic color correction, is able to correct the proposed image in the shortest possible time.

Cropping will give the image a finished look.

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Surely, many of you in your family albums have old photographs that bear the imprint of time - scuffs, tears, scratches, dirt, despite this, they are priceless, because they pass on the memory of the past to new generations. With the advent of new technologies and knowledge, people have learned how to restore time-worn pictures and return old photographs to their former attractiveness.

Today we will talk about retouching old photos in Photoshop. Retouching old photos is a bit laborious, however, the result should please you, because in Photoshop you can achieve almost complete restoration of a photo to initial state, and perhaps even improve the photo source.

I found on the Internet an old photo with visible defects, which I will try to restore with the help of retouching in Photoshop.

Getting Started

Open the photo - Ctrl + O.

To begin with, we analyze the image: the photo has large scratches, abrasions, fragments of the background are missing, there is also small debris and noise that appeared when the photo was scanned, the corners are torn off or erased.

We define the tasks that we face:

• framing
• Removal of large defects, restoration of parts of the image
• Color correction
• Clarity enhancement

framing

If there are no fragments in the photo that do not carry a semantic load and do not participate in the composition, which can be easily sacrificed, such as: pieces of a uniform background, trees, draperies, etc. we just crop them to save time and effort.

In my case, the corners of the photo are torn off on both sides, I decided to get rid of part of the background so as not to complete the image in places where there are no semantic elements.

Take the Crop Tool (Frame / Crop), frame the area that we want to leave, cut off the rest. Elements that will be cropped will be darkened, adjust the size of the frame until you are happy with the result.

You may not need to crop the image in your case, crop the edges only if necessary.

Getting rid of small debris and scratches

Go to the layers palette - F7, copy the layer - Ctrl + J, so as not to affect the original by editing and be able to later compare the source with the result obtained after retouching.

Go to the menu Filter – Noise – Dust and Scratches (Filter – Noise – Dust and scratches).

We set the values ​​​​by eye, so as to hide minor defects. I set the “radius” to 12 and “isohelium” to 10. Uncheck the Preview box to compare the future effect of the filter and the source. To apply the filter, click OK.

Apply a mask to the layer. To do this, click on the mask icon at the bottom of the layers palette. A white mask will appear next to the layer thumbnail, and the foreground and background colors at the bottom of the tool palette will change to black and white.

Take the tool Brush tool (Brush). The principle of working with a mask is that you can quickly hide some fragments of the image and also quickly restore them if necessary.

With black we erase parts of the image, with white - on the contrary, we return everything that was erased if necessary.

Select black color, I took a standard round brush with soft edges. We erase parts of the blurry image on significant parts of the photo: faces, folds of clothes, borders of large elements that should remain clear. If you have erased the excess, switch between colors and restore parts of the image with white.

Here's what I ended up with at this stage:

We got rid of minor defects, now we move on to large scratches and missing fragments. Let's use for this tools Healing Brush Tool (J) (Healing brush), Clone Stamp Tool (S) (Clone stamp) and Path Tool (J) (Patch).

Removal of large defects

Make a duplicate of the layer Ctrl + J, apply a mask - right-click on the layer and click "Apply Layer Mask".

We go to the initial source layer, make a copy of it - Ctrl + J, move it under the copy of the layer with the mask, which we created a step earlier (now this layer will be the penultimate one). We allocate upper layer, press Ctrl + E to merge the copy of the layer with the mask with the bottom layer - a copy of the source.

Select the Healing Brush Tool (Healing brush). The tool copies a sample of a user-specified image fragment and superimposes it on another image region, taking into account the content of the substrate, thus imperceptibly merging different fragments with each other. The Clone Stamp Tool works in a similar way, with one difference: it does not take into account the content of the bottom layer when overlaying fragments one on another.

Take samples of the whole background around the scratches with the Alt key, fill in large scratches with these fragments. Take a sample for each scratch, as different areas are lit differently.

In areas where large fragments of the photo are missing, use the Healing Brush along with the Clone Stamp Tool. Using a clone stamp, copy the nearby entire area of ​​the image - Alt, and fill in the missing fragment with this piece, then go through the Healing Brush Tool to smooth the edges and uniform the background.

Instead of a healing brush, you can use the patch Path Tool (J), it works on the same principle as the Healing Brush Tool. When working with a patch, you pre-outline the area that needs to be retouched, and then, holding down the left mouse button, see which part of the image to use as a patch by moving the mouse over the image. After you release the mouse, the fragment is filled with the selected area of ​​the background.

In difficult places, where special clarity is needed and border pixels cannot be allowed to mix, make a selection using the Lasso Tool (L) (Lasso) or Polygonal Lasso Tool (Polygonal lasso), and then use the healing brush within the selection.

I removed cracks and major defects, let's see what happened:

Some places in the photo became blurry and lost their character, the folds break off in some places and do not continue. Now we will try to fully restore the background and unstick the characters from the background.

To restore the broken folds, I used the Path Tool (J), simply dragging the folds from one place to another.

I copied the lost elements of clothing from one person, transformed Ctrl + T and pasted to another person.

To sharpen the image and lift objects from the background, try to achieve edge contrast. important elements. I added some dark background around the people in some places with a selection and a combination of a Healing Brush with a Clone Stamp to increase edge contrast and create depth.

I also created a selection with the Polygonal Lasso Tool and filled it with the Paint Bucket Tool dark color on a new layer to enhance the difference between the silhouettes of the people and the background.

To smooth out the hard edges, I made a Gaussian blur with a radius of 25px. Filter- Blur - Gaussian blur.

Change the layer blending mode to “Multiply” (Multiply), Opacity (Opacity) layer is reduced to 30%. We process the rough places of the blurred layer with an eraser with soft edges.

Make a copy of all layers on a new layer - Ctrl + Shift + Alt + E. Let's move on to color correction.

Color correction

I desaturated the image to get rid of extraneous color elements and type the color again - Ctrl + Shift + U.

Add contrast to the image Image – Adjustments- Brightness / Contrast (Image – Correction – Brightness / Contrast). I increased the contrast to +50.

Return the color - Image - Adjustments - Hue / Saturation. Put a tick in front of "Colorize" (Toning). We make settings to your liking. In the top line, select a color, in the second, its degree of saturation.

I also decided to tweak the levels - Ctrl + L, to achieve even greater contrast. Move the sliders and experimentally come to the desired result.

Sharpening

How to improve image clarity is a matter of taste. Some people use sharpening filters, but I love and always use another standard filter - Paint Daubs (Oil painting).

Filter - Filter Gallery -Paint Daubs (Filter - Filter Gallery - Oil Painting). We put in both settings (brush size and sharpness) units.

Usually a single filter application is enough to sharpen the image, but in my case I used the filter several times. To repeat the filter action used in the previous operation, press Ctrl+F.

Everything is ready, you can select all editable layers in the palette by holding down the Shift key and clicking on the outermost layers (the first one from the top and the penultimate one). Press Ctrl+G to merge the selected layers into a group. Now you can disable/enable the visibility of the layer group by clicking on the eye icon to compare the result with the original.

My result:

In this tutorial, we looked at how to retouch old photos in Photoshop. I hope you learned something new for yourself from the lesson.

At the end, I got my hands on Odnoklassniki. I registered an account a long time ago, but I didn’t get to fill in everything. What to fill? Well, photos of course! Latest photos, as you yourself understand, everything is already in digital format, but the old family and school ones are only in paper form. I looked at the already faded and crumpled paper photos and realized that they must be immediately digitized and restored, otherwise it would be too late after a while.

After restoring a few old photos, I decided to write a short step-by-step article for beginners, how to get a completely acceptable result within about an hour of work using a scanner and Photoshop, as well as skillful hands, for beginners.

No sooner said than done! And so let's start in order. First, we scan a paper photo with a resolution of 600 dpi, as a color image (even if your photo is black and white), in jpg format, the approximate file size is 3-5 MB.

1. Launch Photoshop and open the file obtained by scanning. To do this, click the menu "File - Open" and specify the path to the file.

2. In the Toolbar, select the Spot Healing Brush Tool, set the brush size we need (depending on the defects, you can change its size in the properties), press Ctrl ++, zoom in on the defect and put the sight (circle) in the center, start clicking with the left mouse button removing scratches, dirt and other defects.

3. If the defect is too large, then use the Stamp tool. Put the sight (circle) on the uncorrupted area of ​​the photo and press the Alt button, as soon as the cursor changes, make a mouse click, then set on the defective area and click by moving and thus gradually restoring the photo.

4. Using alternately one or the other tool, you will gradually restore the photos. If you make a mistake, then roll back one or more steps back using the “History” option

To finalize your photo, use the following tools: “Frame” crop to frame, and Auto Tone, Auto Contrast, and Auto Color Correction.

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