Good day, friends!

But with transport here, not everything is so smooth. is losing ground already at its course station Kabatas that even before Dolmbahce Palace You need to get 10-15 minutes on foot.

True, there is a berth Beşiktaş supporting . But direct contacts with Eminonu per day can be counted on the fingers. And that, only in the morning and in the evening.

Buses and private cars remain, since the metro does not get here either.

As for me, the Besiktas district is not suitable for independent tourists who want to explore the surroundings. All-inclusive lovers should dig in here and live happily ever after, admiring the most expensive view of the Bosphorus.

Beyoglu - the main district of the New City

District Kabatas

The quarter is located between neighboring Besiktas, Taksim and Karkoy, which is identified mainly due to the ferry piers. At all Kabatash- this is a kind of analogue of the nodal center Yenikapi, but on a smaller scale.

This is the point of application of 3 forces:

• ferries depart from here to Asia
• "tourist" finishes here tram T1 from the historical part of Istanbul
• here funicular F1 picks up everyone and takes them up the hill to Taksim Square

Nearby attractions Dolmbahce Palace, Maritime Museum and stadium football club Beşıktaş in the neighboring district of the same name.

I don't see much point in renting a house here. It's noisy, busy, and there's not much room to walk around.

Taksim District

This includes Taksim Square and the surrounding area, including the famous Istiklal.

Purely for me, the tourist value of the area is zero. The monument on the square and the Ataturk Cultural Center are of some kind of revolutionary character. If suddenly, that, then there is already a strike and people with flags and slogans gather in a circle of interests.

To the north is the business center with large hotels, and behind them is the final bus to and. For me, the square is a purely intermediate point for reaching Istiklal.

Another thing is the street area Istiklyal. Fun and delicious. There is where to add calories to the body, there is where to take a walk and show yourself on the dance floor in the evening.

This quarter will appeal to those who are not used to living in peace and quiet. There is always something happening here and the movement does not stop even at night.

A kind of Turkish Deribasovskaya and Rambala at the same time, seasoned with Parisian contrasts. Behind the fashionable facade of the first houses can often be hidden a discreet view of Istanbul everyday life.

In general, if you like to hang out near the place of deployment, so that you can always run home to change your T-shirt, then you can

You can walk to the Galata Tower on foot, as, in principle, to the Galata Bridge. And the rest will have to travel by metro or funicular, which can be reached by

And further. Locate Tarlabashi Boulevard on the map. The territory to the north of it is considered unfavorable, so do not even look at housing there.

Jigankhir District

The quarter promoted in many guidebooks under the term Istanbul Paris . Geographically, it is located on a slope between Istiklal and the districts of Kabatas and Karakoy.

A nice and pleasant area, where bright facades shamelessly mix with abandoned buildings. Here you can take a walk in the evening, look for adventure, themed cafes and interesting stairs leading to the Bosphorus.

A big and significant minus is that the area is located on a slope, so all runs will be accompanied either by a loss of height, or by its gain.

And closer to the tram tracks and the Kabatas quarter, you can find real slums, although not dangerous.

Galata area

This is, in my opinion, one of the most authentic and attractive areas to live in after Sultanahmet.

Firstly, you live on a hill and you just have a great view of old Istanbul across the bridge. If you can’t see something somewhere, then feel free to climb on Galata tower or a nearby roof to broaden your horizons.

Secondly, the local streets, flooded with various shops and shops on a relief hill, will really remind you of Italian back streets with soulful cafes and paved courtyards.

Walking here is a pleasure, besides, it is here that the cheapest souvenirs are sold with the largest selection. You can buy gifts for all your neighbors in an apartment building for only 30-40 lira.

I like this area not only to me, but also to Jewish representatives. There are at least 3 synagogues here, one of which is the largest in Turkey, and the Jewish Museum.

In terms of location, this is also a convenient area, since it is within easy reach of the Galata Bridge, as well as public transport stops. The only problem , like any southern coastal Crimean resort, these are steep ascents and descents.

Great area in terms of location. A stone's throw from the pier, from which you can sail anywhere on the ferry. Near the tram stop T1, responsible for taking you to all the main attractions of Istanbul. Well, the Galata Bridge, where they sell the most delicious fried mackerel in bread that I have tried, for 10 liras.

Although Karaköy does not have the charm of the slightly higher Galata area, it is suitable for those who do not share my craving for hiking, especially at different levels above sea level.

There are no special attractions here, except for the already mentioned Galata Tower And Museum of Modern Art. But due to the advantageous geopolitical position, there will be no problems with visiting the objects from my article "".

I'll add a fly in the ointment.

Despite all the transport advantages, the area itself is slightly neglected. I think that this is not the image you had of Istanbul, which you will see here.

Therefore, it is better to rent a hotel either near Galata or in the Sirkeci quarter.

Further more

Friends, congratulations!

After reading the 3rd article (here) on the topic of the districts of Istanbul, you will now be able to navigate Istanbul better than a local resident. After all, this poor fellow outside his area will be lost in no time, unlike you.

Roll over your values ​​and requirements for a place to live and boldly choose your area and hotel to stay.

It is a great happiness that there are plenty of places for deployment in Istanbul. And your eyes will no longer tire of the number of options, since you already know what you need!

April in the yard, in the yard - Istanbul. I tell, I show - without edits, everything is on my knee, otherwise everything is upside down - tomorrow I'm leaving for Bulgaria.

The Golden Horn Bay cuts the center of Istanbul into two parts. To the south of the bay is Sultanahmet, historical Constantinople with its top attractions and masses of tourists, in some places noticeably outnumbering the local population, and to the north is secular Beyoglu with its always busy Istiklal Boulevard and narrow lanes running to the sea. There are also many tourists here, but the local rhythm of life is so strong that visitors voluntarily or involuntarily obey it. In fact, it's comfortable for everyone.

I have already been to Constantinople, I have also been to Beyoglu - I knew what to choose from. I settled in the Chambers of the Boheme hostel (available on booking.com, http://goo.gl/maps/qpiJq), a 30-second walk from Istiklal (http://goo.gl/maps/lYQsE). 12 euros for a place in a dorm for 12 people. Satisfied. There is no heat, + 13-23 during the day in early April, so it's voracious - about 25 lira per day. There will be an addition to the link.

Istiklal

Nobody is in a hurry. Whether it's raining or sunny, thousands of Istanbulites flock to Istiklal to parade back and forth, sit in a cafe, drink Turkish tea, smoke a hookah, play backgammon.

And with the onset of night, Istiklal is captured by concentrated electronic rhythms - here, among other things, is the center of Istanbul's nightlife.

Istiklal - Europe. Not a synthetic Europe for tourists, but purely its own, Turkish. Just a few kilometers, behind the Atatürk Bridge in the alleys of the former Constantinople, everything is imbued with Islam, but here, in Beyoglu, it’s like another country.

However, once it was so: before the appearance of the Ottomans, the Genoese city of Galata stood to the north of the Golden Horn, and the Byzantine Constantinople to the south. The Venetians also built here, and the Ottomans, apparently, never wanted to dissociate themselves from the European; the successor of the Ottoman Empire, the Republic of Turkey, went even further into Europe. Whether this somehow affected Beyoglu or the land itself is saturated with a special, irresistible European spirit, it is not clear.

In the Istiklal region, there are even more functioning churches than mosques. One of them is Ayia Triada, a Greek Orthodox church.

Church of Sant'Antonio di Padova

Another church in Istiklal is Sant'Antonio di Padova (Church of St. Anthony of Padua, http://goo.gl/maps/8abRv).

According to some reports, the largest active church ().

A certain Mr. Roncalli, the future Pope John XXIII, served here for 10 years. A friend of the Turkish people - this is how the plaque under the monument characterizes him. On weekdays, masses are held at 8:00 am in English, at 7:00 pm in Turkish, and on weekends also in Polish and Italian.

And here is the local Jesus. Amazing statue!

And this is the 61-meter Galata Tower (http://goo.gl/maps/m1WZa), built by the Genoese in the 14th century. One of the main landmarks in Istanbul - visible from almost everywhere from the center.

They take the elevator here for 13 liras (about 6 euros). Hundreds of tourists a day - more income than from an oil rig.

The square under the tower is also remarkable - always lively, always in a good mood. Genius place.

On the banks of the Golden Horn

Attractions, no matter how many there are, can be seen for a certain period of time. Beyoglu, as well as the whole huge, many-sided center of Istanbul, is good because you can always find something new here - hundreds of alleys and streets, and almost every one has something interesting.

The whole Beyoglu is full of curious details, full of taste - people have been putting their souls into this corner of the world for centuries, and it is felt.

The Galata Bridge is thrown across the Golden Horn (http://goo.gl/maps/a9Jqf), leading to "Constantinople". On the right is a small fish market (http://goo.gl/maps/ChGSr), traders and birds waiting for fish giblets scream here.

The Galata Bridge is buzzing under the wheels of cars and trams, hundreds of tourists, hundreds of locals, fishermen throw fishing rods with long fishing lines, and between the water and the road there is another tier filled with fish restaurants, and all these fishing lines from somewhere above sparkle in the rays of the sun, and people feel good: there is winter in Istanbul too, and it is over.

• 4940 views

Today, the Beyoğlu district of Istanbul can be called an autonomous settlement, consisting of 45 separate parts. Currently, about 225,000 residents permanently live on its territory. But since Beyoglu is the center of business, recreation and culture, life in it does not stop for a minute. Every day there are up to several million visitors, which include both the Turks themselves and tourists.

Beyoglu district in Istanbul

In Byzantine times, this area was called the Vineyards of Pern. For a long time, foreigners called Beyoglu simply Pera, and the locals called it more widely - Pera Beyoglu. The last part of this name nevertheless began to dominate over time, and the name of Per was completely forgotten after it was withdrawn from official circulation in 1925.

The history of Beyoglu is very rich and varied. The settlement of these territories began about 8 thousand years ago. Replacing each other, a variety of peoples lived here - from the Thracians to the Greeks and the ancient Romans, but before the Ottomans came to power, the area was minimally developed and was considered just a suburb of Constantinople, although important in terms of trade.

Active development began in 1492, when water supply was established in Beyoglu and foreign embassies began to concentrate here. The area between Galatasaray and Tunel began to develop not only as a commercial, but also as a residential area.

Due to the fact that foreigners lived in Beyoglu almost from its very foundation, the area turned out to be much more Europeanized than other similar areas of Istanbul.

Mass building "under Europe" began in the 20s of the 20th century, during the reign of Kemal Ataturk, who was famous for his progressive views and moods. But at the same time, monuments of ancient architecture, such as the Galata Tower, were preserved.

Until 1927, the most famous street in the area, Istiklal, was called Cadde-i Kebir (Cadde-i Kebir), Büyük Cadde (Big Street - Büyük Cadde) or Grande Rue de Péra in French.

It is worth saying a little more about the sights of Beyoglu.

Attractions Beyoglu (Beyoğlu)

Among the sights of Beyoglu - Galata Tower

Beyoglu is a storehouse of everything unusual and interesting. It is very difficult to single out one thing in a series of historical and modern cultural monuments, but there are several places that you should definitely visit.

Arabic mosque: This Istanbul shrine dates back to 1337. The initiators of its construction were the Genoese. Initially, it played the role of a Latin church, but with the advent of Muslim conquerors, it was turned into a mosque with extremely interesting architecture (a mixture of stone and wood).

: the construction dates back to 1348. The height of the tower allows you to see the beauty of Istanbul at a glance. Therefore, travelers are happy to pay for an entrance ticket in order to enjoy the breathtaking city panorama.

Church of Christ: interesting not only from a historical, but also from an architectural point of view. The interior decoration is striking in its splendor. Many talk about unusual church acoustics, so it is worth visiting Christ Church during the service.

Jewish Museum of Turkey: Not far from the Galata Bridge is the beautiful Jewish Synagogue of Zilfaris. It was within its walls that a compact museum complex was founded at the beginning of the 21st century. A small but harmonious collection tells about the historical and cultural relationship between Jews and Muslims.

Church of St. Mary Draperis (Santa Maria Draperis Kilisesi). In the central part of the Istanbul district of Beyoglu, the famous Catholic shrine rises - the Latin church of St. Mary Draperi. The landmark, dating back to the 17th century, has been badly damaged by fires several times in its history, but each time it has been restored. The church acquired its modern look thanks to the famous architect from Italy, to whom the ruler Abdulahmet II issued permission for the reconstruction of the Catholic monastery in 1904.

Salt Galata Cultural Center: This is one of the main attractions of Beyoglu. A large number of exhibition areas of various directions are located on an impressive territory. Scientific conferences and seminars are regularly held here. Extensive research activities have been launched on the basis of the cultural center. The building itself is also an architectural monument, erected at the end of the 19th century under the direction of the architect Alexander Vallor and modernized with the help of the architectural bureau Mimarlar Tasarym.

You can also look at the Fish Market (Balık pazarı) - the name of the market is conditional, since in fact everything is sold here, fruits, vegetables, seafood, spices, sweets, leather goods and much more. In front of the entrance to it there is an arch with a sign erected in honor of his 150th birthday.

These are not all the sights of Beyoglu, which should be paid close attention to the guests of the city. Of great interest are the Mevlevi Museum in Galata, the Depo Cultural Center, Casa Galeri and much, much more.

Taksim Square (Taksim Meydanı) in Beyoğlu

Taksim Square in Istanbul (Taksim Meydanı)

Especially in detail it is necessary to study the local Taksim square. It can be called a kind of border line between the old and the new city. Luxurious hotels and hotels, expensive and budget catering establishments, etc. are located around the square. The transport network is very developed. Taksim Square is a traditional venue for large-scale public events and military parades.

A large number of attractions of the area are concentrated on this territory - the park of the same name Taksim, the Independence Monument, the Holy Trinity Church, the Ataturk Cultural Center, the Taksim Mosque, the Taksim Art Gallery and much more.

Not far from the square, the famous Istanbul Istiklal Street originates, leading to the historical center of Beyoglu.

It is on Taksim Square that official demonstrations are often held. By the way, it is here that Gezi Park is located nearby, due to the demolition of which strikes began in Taksim in 2013. As a result, after lengthy skirmishes, the demolition of the park was stopped.

Fans of Galatasaray and Beşiktaş also gather in the square after matches.

Interestingly, the square has been reconstructed a significant number of times, the architectural appearance has been improved, but at the same time, the general style that appeared in the late 30s of the 20th century through the efforts of the Frenchman Henri Prost has been preserved to this day.

The Marmara Taksim Hotel in Beyoglu

There are a lot of hotels in this area, respectively, and the range of prices is quite large. The most popular hotels are as follows:

• Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah
• Gezi Hotel Bosphorus
• Tomtom Suites
• Rixos Pera Istanbul
• Radisson Blu Hotel Istanbul Pera
• Witt Istanbul Suites
• Corinne Hotel
• Georges Hotel Galata
• CVK Park Bosphorus Hotel Istanbul

If you are going to spend most of your time on excursions and trips, then of course it makes no sense to take an expensive hotel, given that you will only spend the night in it. I advise you to spend more time walking, having breakfast outside the hotel in picturesque places - this is much more interesting, and also gives you the opportunity to get to know Turkish cuisine and flavor better.

Shopping in Beyoglu: Istiklal Street (Istiklal Caddesi)

Istiklal Street in Istanbul (Istiklal Caddesi)

The concentration of a large number of shops is Istiklal Street, which stretches from Taksim Square to the final stop of the famous red tram.

Here you can find everything: souvenirs, clothes, silver and gold, cosmetics, shoes, antiques, Turkish sweets and much more.

Therefore, when you are going for a walk along the boulevard, plan your time taking into account the fact that you want to look into different shops and this will not be limited to one or two hours.

Basically, all stores are open as freestanding, there is only one shopping center and a small one - Demirören Avm. On the ground floor there is a large department of Sephora, there are also departments of Gizia, DeFacto, Vakko (brand clothing store), Brandroom (brand clothing store), Guess, Gap, Koton and others.

Throughout Istiklal Street you can find shops: Colins's, Mango, H&M, Adidas, Lacoste, Diesel, Flo, Waikiki, MAC, SNR Shop, Kemal Tanca, Hotiç, Tudors, Elle, Mavi, Collezione, New Balance, Yves Rocher, Faik Sonmez and much more (mass market and accessories stores).

Istikal street on the map:

Restaurants and cafes on Istiklal street in Beyoglu

Restaurant 360 Istanbul on Istiklal Street

For lovers of cafes, restaurants and party places in the Beyoglu district on Istiklal Street, as well as on the lanes close to it, you can find a huge number of different establishments, sometimes completely different from each other.

These are fish restaurants, club-restaurants with an unusual view, traditional Turkish kebab restaurants, pide and much more.

I will give examples of those institutions that would be interesting to visit for a tourist.

Flower Arcade (Çiçek Pasajı)

Flower Arcade in Istanbul (Çiçek Pasajı)

First of all, be sure to check out the "Flower Passage" (Çiçek Pasajı), which is a historical landmark of the Beyoglu district. It was partially restored and reconstructed, its approximate age is about 140 years. On the territory now occupied by the building, in the 19th century there was a wooden theater of Mikhail Naum Dukhani.

Today, on the ground floor of the passage, there are restaurants popular with both locals and tourists.

The Flower Passage is interesting not only for its restaurants, but also for its unconventional architecture, which can vaguely resemble the passages of France.

Flower passage on the map

Restaurant-bar Leb-i Derya

Located on the top floor of the Richmond Hotel. The restaurant offers a beautiful view of the strait. Here you can spend the evening both in the format of a restaurant and at the bar overlooking the sea.

On weekends, Leb-i derya plays local DJs, Lounge, Nu Jazz, Electro Bossa, Chillhouse, Nu Disco, Lounge, Jazz, Oldies and Chilout style music.

Prices in the menu for 2017: hot dishes from 36 to 55 Turkish liras, salads from 14 to 20 liras, snacks from 14 to 36 liras, desserts from 8 to 20 liras.

Restaurant ELEOS

Eleos Restaurant in Beyoglu

It is located in an alley next to Istiklal. If you pass the Russian Consulate (it will be on your left), you need to turn into the first lane on the left, after a couple of minutes of walking you will find it.

The view from the top floor of the restaurant is magnificent.

Before visiting, it is advisable to reserve a table, especially if you plan to visit in the evening.

The average bill for 2017 is 245 Turkish Lira for two with alcohol.

360 Istanbul

This is a fairly well-known and popular place among tourists, which combines a bar, a club and a restaurant. Why is it so famous? Of course, with its view of Istanbul, covering all 360 degrees. This beauty is especially breathtaking at night. I advise you to visit for sure!

The concept of the institution: delicious food, atmosphere and relaxation.

Prices on the menu for 2017: starters from 29 to 37 Turkish liras, hot dishes from 55 to 95 liras, alcohol (bottled) from 145 liras (local Turkish wines) to 2250 liras.

Restaurant Barba Rasimo

Quite an old restaurant, with Greek and Turkish cuisine. The restaurant is located on the terrace overlooking the strait and Istanbul.

Hot and cold appetizers: from 10 to 30 Turkish liras, salads from 12 to 18 liras, hot dishes from 26 to 35 liras, desserts from 12 to 16 liras.

Finding the Beyoglu area is quite easy. Beyoglu area on the map.

In fact, this is a very important topic. Istanbul is a large and heterogeneous city. Choose the wrong area, and you will have transgender prostitutes standing under your windows every night. I am telling you this from my own experience. In addition, when traveling to Istanbul, you must constantly think about logistics. How will you get to the airport? How will you move around the city? And will you have to constantly spend money on transport?

In general, carefully weigh all the pros and cons. And for my part, I will now tell you about the advantages and disadvantages of certain areas, so that even before the start of the trip you are as prepared as possible for a meeting with Istanbul.

Europe or Asia?

Let's start simple. I think everyone knows that the largest city in Turkey is located in two parts of the world at once. Most of the sights of Istanbul are on its European side. Therefore, for the first trip, it is best to choose this particular part of the city.

Asia is also good in its own way. It has a pleasant atmosphere, lower prices in cafes and many modern quarters. But at the same time, the choice of hotels and apartments here is much worse than in Europe. When we were looking for housing for ourselves (in the Asian region of Kadikoy), we really considered only 2 (!) housing options. Everything else was nothing at all.

You can stop in Asia for those travelers who want to look at real non-tourist Istanbul. If you are not in the city for the first time, this is a great solution. Plus, Asia is better for those who travel through the city in transit and have to leave for Sabiha Gokcen Airport in the morning. Of course, it is easier to get to it from Asia.

Which area to choose in the Asian side of Istanbul?

In terms of tourism in the Asian part of Istanbul, in fact, only two districts can be of interest - Kadikoy, where we ourselves lived for 3 days, and Uskudar, located a little to the north. If during your trip you want to live on both sides of the Bosphorus at once, then I advise you to pay attention to them.

Kadikoy good for its atmosphere, tea gardens, fish restaurants and the energy of life, which boils here just like on the famous Istiklal street.

It is POSSIBLE to choose this area for a trip. It is easy to get here from Sabiha Gokcen Airport (by Havabus buses or city routes E10 and E11). And the historical quarters of Sultanahmet (where, in fact, all the main attractions of Istanbul are located) can be reached from here in 15 minutes.

You can do this in two ways:

1. With the help of the "transcontinental" metro Marmaray. The station is located next to the waterfront. You need to get off on the European side at Sirkeci station.
2. With the help of maritime transport. Ships from the pier Kadikoy go constantly. I boarded the ship and in 15 minutes you are at the Galata Bridge.

The most convenient way to pay for travel is with the Istanbul Card. The cost of one trip is 2.15 lire. If you are transferring from one transport to another (for example, during a trip to the city from the airport), the second trip will be even cheaper.

Uskudar- This is an area near the Beylerbey Palace and the Maiden Tower. These are quite important sights of the city.

You can get to Europe by ship (everything is the same as in the previous case). 15 minutes - and you are at the Galata Bridge. Stepping forward - you will come to the Blue Mosque. Go back - go to the Galata Tower and Istiklal Street. Everything is very convenient.

Regions of Europe: map

Most of Istanbul's sights are concentrated in the Golden Horn area. On the north coast is the area Beyoglu, on the south Fatih. Several bridges stretch over the water - including the Galata Bridge, the Atayurka Bridge, as well as the metro bridge, which has the same name as the bay itself - the Golden Horn. Therefore, it is not difficult to get from one area to another on foot.

Both areas are good for living. Personally, I myself lived twice in Beyoglu (both times in different parts of it). But for tourists, the Fatih area is also a good solution (for example, there are even more sights there). Further about everything in more detail.

Fatih

I'll start with the main thing ... Fatih district is the most popular and tourist area of ​​Istanbul. There are attractions at every turn. Most points can be easily reached on foot.

The advantages of this area are as follows:

• It is convenient to get here. In terms of transport, this is generally an excellent place. From Ataturk Airport, you can get here by metro (to Sishane or Taksim stations). Havabus buses also go to this area. From Sabiha Gokcen Airport to Taksim Square can also be reached with their help. Need a trip to Asia or the Princes' Islands? You just go down to the embankment and board the right ship.

• In the Istiklal area, life is in full swing. There are bars, restaurants, nightclubs, fashion stores. At the same time, as soon as you turn onto some side street, it immediately becomes quiet around. I personally did not hear any noise at night in both hotels that I rented in Beyoglu. Do you want to play it safe (well, you never know, what if there really is a club under the windows)? Look for hotels near the Galata Tower or Karaköy Promenade. Well, read the hotel reviews carefully! Alternatively, you can still rent the hotel that I advised above. It's quiet there at night.
• There are many inexpensive restaurants around Istiklal Street and Taksim Square. The main thing is to look for them not on the main street, but on those streets that cross it, turning to the side. Personally, I can advise you such cafes as Varuna gezgin, Melekler Durum and Balkan Lokantasi canteen. It's cheap and delicious. Good establishments with pleasant prices met me here many times more often than in the tourist area of ​​Fatih.
• The Galata Tower is located in the Beyoglu district. You can also walk to Dolmabahce Palace. It takes about 20 minutes to walk to the Sultanahmet quarter. But during this time you will pass many important sights of the city one by one.

Cons of the Beyoglu area:

• A hill leading from the Galata Bridge to the Galata Tower. She constantly annoyed me. When you step down - everything is OK. But it’s already hard to return home from the center. The slope is pretty steep.
• Possible noise under the windows. I already wrote that Istiklal Street is dynamic and lively. Therefore, it is better to rent a house NEAR this street, and not on it itself. I lived on a parallel street. And I didn't hear any noise at night. And on Isktiklal itself I went in the evenings to a cafe - to drink, eat and listen to live music.
• Parallel to Istiklal, Tarlabasi Boulevard stretches. In the evenings there are prostitutes (some of whom used to be men). When I lived in the first Kumbaraci hotel, I did not even know about this fact. And when we moved to the Berry Life Hotel, I greeted them every evening.

Other areas of Istanbul Europe

Laleli District known in Istanbul for its wholesale trade. There are many Russian-speaking people here, as well as various markets and shops. Getting here is quite convenient. Close to the Sultanahmet quarter. To the embankment with ships - too. But the proximity of markets is always a special flavor.

Getting lost (even with a navigator) is easy there. Yes, there are a lot of people on the street.

Sisli District located north of Taksim Square. But to be honest, I haven't been there myself. On the Internet, it is praised for having a large shopping center. From here you will have to travel by transport to the sights. I don't know what else to say about him.

Besiktas District. One of my favorites in Istanbul. A bright tomorrow has already arrived. The Dolmabahce Palace and Mosque are located here. But other attractions will have to travel by transport.

What is good about Besiktas is the way of life. If Fatih, Beyoglu and Laleli are relatively poor areas. That, in Besiktas live those who have succeeded in life. There are many 5-star hotels with swimming pools near the Bosphorus, their own SPA complexes, hamams and other joys of life. Yachts are on the coast. Some hotels even occupy the building of the Sultan's palace. Imagine how cool it is to live in such a place!

In general, if you have money, it is better to live in Istanbul in the Besiktas area. If not everything is so cool with money, then welcome to Beyoglu or Fatih. Uskudar and Kadikoy are a gourmet dish. And fans of the beaches (yes, they are also in Istanbul) can go to the Princes' Islands. But that's a completely different story.

Goodbye country!

Istanbul is a city of many faces with its own rhythm, sounds, smells and even a special pink color. This city leaves no chance: either you fall in love with Istanbul, or you hate it from the first time. We somehow got along right away: stepping on the Eminonu embankment, I felt - this is my city, with all its noise, dust and bustle.

For the first time, you should definitely plan the main sights: marvel at the size of the ancient Hagia Sophia, sit on the carpet in the Blue Mosque, go down to the Yerebatan cisterns, climb the Galata tower.

This is a traditional tourist route, and it would be an unforgivable mistake not to see all this in Istanbul. I still cannot forgive myself that I came too late to Istiklal Street and did not catch the famous Istanbul tram - it was already night and it had finished running along fashionable mansions and shops. Three years later, I returned, but the rails were cut, the tram was driven to the depot, and when it starts working again, only God knows (no, rather Allah is his jurisdiction).

And yet, when you come to Istanbul for the second and third time, you can go here endlessly, there is always something else to see, you want to dilute your trips to museums with something special, to see non-postcard views and places where Istanbul residents like to visit and bring their friends and acquaintances.

Karakoy - hipster Istanbul

For those who love cafe gatherings, street art in abandoned houses, art galleries and hipster hangouts, there is a place in Istanbul where the concentration of all of the above just rolls over.

The Karakoy area is located in Beyoğlu between the Galata Bridge, the Museum of Modern Art, Kemeralti Street and the Bosphorus.

What to do in Karakoy? Drinking coffee in one of the cafes, wandering through the alleys in search of graffiti, listening to street musicians, hanging out in a pub, in general, it will definitely not be boring here. And, of course, the atmosphere!

Kadikoy and Moda quarter - parties, restaurants and bohemia

Having sailed on a boat to the Asian part of Istanbul, you find yourself in a completely different city. There are also mosques here, few tourists, although there are enough backpackers - there are hostels and hotels on every corner. Many cafes and cozy restaurants are adjacent to a small market, including a fish market, where you can taste the freshest fish and shrimp right on the spot.

Little attention is paid to tourists here, everyone is in a hurry, especially when you approach the pier, from where boats leave for the European part and other areas of Asian Istanbul, there is also a bus station and dolmush go to different areas.

At the Kadikoy pier, there is a concentration of banks, Turkish fast food - the usual Simita bagels and "fish burgers" - Balyk Ekmek (by the way, they are here one and a half times cheaper than on Eminonu and I liked the local version of fish with salad in pita, and not in thick bun), fresh juices from oranges and pomegranates, kofte in buns. Food fairs are regularly held, where the variety of street food simply rolls over - if you don’t buy something, you can try cheeses, dried fruits and nuts, pastries of different types and varieties, and of course Turkish sweets. And do not forget to drink ayran - it is sold in cups and bottles, a straw is attached - we pierce the aluminum membrane and drink ayran on the go.

Unlike the old city - the Fatih or Beyoglu districts, Kadikoy has a completely different atmosphere. Going deep into its streets, you find yourself in the concentration of a huge number of bars, restaurants, bookstores, music shops, fashion boutiques and tattoo parlors.

During the day it is quite quiet here, but in the evening the parties begin: people migrate between bars, drink beer right on the streets, music flows from every institution. If you settle in one of the local hotels or hostels, do not expect silence: the hum of voices, the roar of music will not let you fall asleep until the morning.

The Moda quarter and the embankment that surrounds it adjoins the party streets and is generally confusing - the question arises: where am I? in Europe or Asia? Apartment buildings of 3-4 floors, mansions overlooking the sea, front gardens and expensive cars. The locals are decorously walking along the embankment, walking their dogs, breathing the sea.

Ships no longer moor at the Moda pier - there is a restaurant in the building, but it is so beautiful that it has become an adornment of the embankment. I can't believe that bars are occupied around the corner and in the evening you have to squeeze through people to go through the streets among the bars.

We lived in this area for several days - and once again I want to return.

Istanbul Sapphire - look down

This place is definitely from the category of must visit - the highest point in Istanbul. Sapphire is a skyscraper located in the Levent district, with a height of 238 meters and 54 floors. On the upper terrace there is an observation deck where a high-speed elevator leads. The view from there is stunning - in clear weather, most of Istanbul is visible: bridges over the Bosphorus are lit at dusk, thousands of cars are pulled in traffic jams at rush hour, small and large houses, old cemeteries and mosques are preserved between them, adjacent to business centers, sports grounds and squares. It is interesting to watch how planes take off over Sapphire - literally every 2 minutes a liner flies from Ataturk Airport.

Café Vista on the observation deck is available for a glass of tea or a meal if desired. It's a pity that when filming time comes, the lights of the cafe are reflected in the protective glass of the observation deck. Information for photographers: security prohibits the use of monopods and tripods (this was the case in the spring of 2017 after the Istanbul terrorist attacks). But you can use a spider tripod by attaching it to the back of a chair. I highly recommend this place to visit - a very impressive picture opens from Sapphire.

Kuzguncuk - openwork of wooden houses in Istanbul

Another area on the Asian side of Istanbul is Uskudar and its stunning Kuzguncuk quarter with carved wooden houses. Non-touristic, but so cozy - the best place for breakfasts over the Bosphorus, walks and photo shoots.

Bright wooden houses nestled on steep streets, some of which are exclusively pedestrian - like the slopes in Montmartre.

And cafes with bright awnings add even more resemblance to the Parisian district.

Slowly drinking tea and coffee, Istanbul residents squint their eyes from the blinding spring sun.

Surprisingly, Kuzguncuk is considered one of the tolerant districts of Istanbul: a Christian church, synagogue and mosques coexist here. Another reason to be surprised in multicultural Istanbul.

Eat at the fish market near the Galata Bridge

We looked at this place on our first visit to Istanbul. The fish market near the Galata Bridge is small, but quite famous. Previously, one could easily sit down at one of the tables covered with oilcloth, order Dorado or Grilled red mullet with salad and watch the boats moor at the Karakoy pier. And as the sun, setting over the horizon, paints the Golden Horn Bay pink.

Now, at the place where the tables stood by the water, some kind of construction is going on (they seem to want to make an embankment and a park). And the market was brought to life and a decent fish cafe was made on its territory.

Everything has become more expensive, but always delicious. It is more pleasant and interesting for me to eat fish here together with the locals than in fish restaurants on the Galata Bridge. In the market, no one looks at you ingratiatingly: they just give you the usual laminated menu in a dozen languages, and fifteen minutes later they serve happiness on a plate - very tasty, piping hot :)