At modern tables the legs, as a rule, are connected to the side rails and only with bolts. These connections are often loosened. But to eliminate the j defect, it is enough just to tighten the nuts.
How much more difficult is the situation when the adhesive spiked joints between the legs and the sides are broken. Trying to fix the spikes again with glue does not always allow you to achieve the desired result, so: since new shackles will not provide strong connection with the old one and the knife "soon it will start walking again .. Ray
Most of all, strengthen the broken connections with checkers 1 ", made of hard wood, cut! us according to the shape of the angle between the drawers. The checkers are attached to the inner surfaces of the drawers on horseback and screws, having previously scanned them;
REGULATION OF THE FURNITURE RCHTEEL-“FROG” Installing furniture hinges on kitchen cabinets and cabinets, as well as on other pieces of cabinet furniture, is not a special thing, since their doors and corgus, as a rule, already have suction _ opening holes. The hinge itself is attached from the inside !\u003e dzer-he, and its /junction plate - to the furniture body at the level of the hole on the door for the base of the hinge. Both elements of the hinge have slots and screws, through which they are left in each other. All screws in the mounting plate (including hinges) can be simultaneously used to adjust the position of the door.
According to the effusion, the door is adjusted by loosening the fixing screws (in the figure - with blue heads), mounting 1 "plate and shifting the latter along the elongated holes to the required position. You can align the door horizontally using the set screw on the ground floor (from the green. yu head;. The distance between the door R to the furniture body, and that; oke their mutual parallelism and (and then,
and the other determines the opening angle
doors) are regulated by a "fixing screw with cooking marked in red.
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BALCONY IDEAS
“It’s been a long time since the spring of light has passed, it’s gone away ~ naughty: and spring has come in streams all the time,” said Mikhail Mikhailovich Prishvin, “spring green grass» The weather in May is unstable - sometimes warm and even:<аркие дни, то пасмурные и холодн! ie. Но постоянно тянзт на воль ныГ; воздух, что не всегда получается pet лпзо^ать. Оборудуйте балкон тент, скамейкой со столиком и подставка™- , дл! цве: оь | совсег.. рядог.1 у вас будет уголс:: возрождающейся природы.
solo for mziih
With the onset of warm and sunny days, it is more and more desirable to eat in the air among the descending plants, surrounded by beautiful flowers. Such.ss., 1 set, south of the capital and
two Iez-longs, it will come in handy on your site.
GRILL FAST
Many of the roads:::ki are lined with concrete paving slabs, some of them could not be used. From napoi such stoves, it is very easy to make a hearth for cooking on charcoal.
All you need is four M10 studs with a length of 0i:0Ji0 ;.;petra and nuts with washers.
"Sak. your own master", 5 "2009 25
1. An object on three legs will not sway, even if the length of its legs is not the same, since the mass is distributed over three points of support. This option is great for small tables or stools.
2. Only dry wood with a moisture content of no more than 10% should be used, so it is useful to have an electronic moisture meter in your arsenal. Raw material (even if it feels dry to the touch) will dry out and warp over time, causing the joints to loosen and the legs to change in length.
3. High chairs and tables, especially narrow ones or those with heavy tops, are unlikely to be stable unless they are reinforced with prongs. Position the legs as low as possible for maximum stability, as shown in the table example (see photo). But sometimes it is different.
With thin legs and high height, loosening of the joints occurs in the upper part of the object. In such cases, make the legs thicker and strengthen the structure with additional prolegs or wide drawstrings that tie the top of the legs.
In the original version of our table (see link), the legs at the top and bottom were connected by prolegs located at a right angle, but at the same time the upper part of the object quickly loosened.
Therefore, we changed the design by adding a cross to give the table extra rigidity.
4. The drawers of the table and the details of the seat frame must be wide at the junction with the legs. If you want to avoid the impression of massiveness, saw out arcs or other decorative cutouts on the sides, as shown below.
5. When making a large collapsible table using bolts or other similar fasteners, use a special adhesive sealant for assembly to prevent the nuts from loosening. Then the legs will not loosen.
6. Do not move the table (especially on carpet), as even a small obstruction can loosen or damage the joints and cause the legs to become loose. Always lift and carry furniture, even if this requires an assistant.
Note: The problem may be the unevenness of the floor.
You have made a sturdy table or chair, but despite its flawlessness, this piece of furniture wobbles. Before you start to adjust the length of the legs, move them to another place and check again for stability. The cause of the problem may be uneven floors. Soft carpeting is an excellent remedy for eliminating slight wobble.
Pairs of prolegs connecting the legs of the chair make the structure rigid and prevent loosening.
When making a chair or stool with three legs, arrange them at an angle to increase the area of \u200b\u200bsupport and give the product additional stability.
Use blue threadlocker to secure the nuts during reassembly so you can take the table apart again. Red sealant is for final fixation.
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Reinforcing loose joinery joints can be simple (reapplying glue to loose joints) or complex and time consuming (making duplicates of broken pieces on a lathe).
The choice of wood glue and its use
An effective glue joint consists of five layers: a thin film of glue, two areas (one on each side) impregnated with glue, and adjacent wood into which the glue does not penetrate. The weakest of them determines the strength of adhesion. In the early days, the weakest layer was the glue itself, but modern glues are so strong that they can destroy wood.
To make a well-bonded joint, the two mating surfaces must be cleaned of old adhesive, dirt, and finishes. If the wood is smooth, it must be roughened with a knife. If the tree becomes wet during the removal of old glue, it must be dried. Shape the joint so that it fits firmly and has no gaps.
Also, squeeze the joint so that the glue enters the wood fibers. Usually, the joint is dried and jointed prior to assembly to ensure that the wood surfaces fit together and have sufficient adhesion. After that, disconnect the connection and apply a thin layer of adhesive to both adjoining surfaces. Apply a thicker layer of adhesive to the end structure than to the side structure, which has less absorbent properties. Reassemble the connection, squeeze and wipe it - first with a damp, then with a dry cloth. Immediately check the correct position of the connection surfaces.
The choice of glue depends on the type of furniture, the place of its application. Professionals sometimes disagree on which adhesives are best for joinery work on furniture. The most popular types of glue are described below.
The main types of glue used in furniture repair
Polyvinyl acetate (PVA). A good general purpose adhesive for basic types of room furniture. Used in finished form; sets 30 minutes after compression; however, it takes two days to reach full adhesion strength. This adhesive is applied to both surfaces to be bonded. PVA does not resist moisture well, so it should not be used for gluing outdoor furniture.
Aliphatic resin. This glue is an improved version of PVA. It is stronger, more moisture resistant, more viscous and less fluid. However, it dries faster than PVA and therefore requires faster compression. The clamping brackets can be removed after 30 minutes, however the connection must remain stationary until the full strength of the adhesive is reached (this usually takes 18 hours). Yellow glue is used to fill gaps and hold ill-fitting joints together.
Animal (animal) glue. It is obtained from animal skin, nerve tissues or bones. From the time of Egypt until 1900, it was the only furniture adhesive. According to antiques restorers, this glue is reversible: steam and sunlight destroy its sticky properties, causing the joint to separate. In addition, there is enough time - almost 20 minutes - to squeeze the glue until it starts to set. However, it can only be applied at temperatures around 20°C; it hardens at temperatures below 10°C and thins at temperatures above 33°C. Joints assembled with animal glue should remain compressed for 6-12 hours. It can not be used in the repair of outdoor furniture.
Plastic-resin adhesive (urea formaldehyde ). A very strong adhesive used in joints subject to unusual stresses. It is produced as a powder to be diluted with water; however, after it dries, the adhesive becomes extremely moisture resistant. It must be applied at temperatures above 20°C. It begins to set after 5-15 minutes and after compression must remain under constant pressure for 5-12 hours (depending on ambient temperature).
Resorcinol adhesive . It is sold in a ready-made (mixed) form, but you can prepare it yourself by mixing the powder with a liquid catalyst. This is a very strong glue, it has high heat and moisture resistance: it is used even in the construction of boats. This is the best glue for repairing outdoor wooden furniture. It should be applied at room temperature and left in a compressed position for 10 to 12 hours.
There are a large number of other synthetic adhesives used in woodworking. New types of adhesives are constantly emerging, but furniture repair professionals use the above adhesives more often. Epoxy adhesives are known (various types are available, including those that harden very quickly), they act on chemical principles, forming a strong bond between pieces of wood, as well as between non-porous materials such as metal or glass. Epoxy glue has high adhesive strength, but is expensive. When repairing furniture, some less expensive adhesives with similar properties are used. Contact adhesives set the fastest. Their disadvantage is that they do not allow time for corrections after they have been applied to the joints.
EXAMPLE: Repairing a loose table
Of particular concern are the joints at the top of the legs. Under a lot of pressure, they can loosen and even fall off. Problems often arise with flip boards that buckle and retractable extensions that stick or break. Many faults can be easily fixed.
Most tables designed for private use consist of a tabletop attached to a frame, which is a rectangular base of narrow horizontal straps, tightly connected to the top sides of the legs. In some cases, the frame is connected to the top, and the legs are bolted to the frame. In tables of a simpler design, the legs are attached directly to the underside of the top. Such joints are held together in a variety of ways: by adhesive, which can lose strength; spikes and dowels that can break; plates, screws or bolts that may come loose. Adhesive bonds that have lost their grip can be easily repaired by applying a new layer of adhesive. However, to repair more serious breaks between components, it may be necessary to disconnect the connections and then replace the broken parts. To complete the repair and make it better, you can strengthen the connection with metal corner plates or wooden blocking.
To repair tables with moving parts, different measures are required. A damaged sliding table mechanism can be fixed by cleaning and lubricating its sliding parts; if they are broken, bent or lost, they will need to be replaced. The easiest way to repair a sagging flapboard is to pound it with a wedge and glue the wedge to its underside.
Good to have a glue injector. With it, you can introduce glue into hidden places. Clamps are also an important tool. To close the cracks, you will need G-shaped clamps (clamps), and to maintain the same pressure on the glued joints - “frame-leg” - girdle clamps. When using clamps, place thin pieces of cork or softwood under their grips to avoid damaging the surface of the clamped element. To close the glued sections, apply the minimum necessary force, since excessive pressure can cause all the glue to squeeze out, the connection will remain weak, dry.
If you need to reinforce a part with a keyed butt joint, you will need a keyed jig (to guide the drill) and metal keyed centers. These tools provide precise placement and alignment of keyholes. Dowels with special grooves are also useful, which make the adhesive bonds more durable.
How to get to the damaged area
Removing the tabletop . To access a damaged joint, turn the table over and place it on a folded cloth or mat. Remove the table top. If it is attached with metal compression plates inserted into the groove on the frame rails, remove the screws and these plates and detach the table top. If it is attached with screws or bolts to the frame or corner blocks, remove these fasteners. If the repair requires disassembling the connections, you can use the following methods.
Make markings on each part of the table for its subsequent assembly. Break the adhesive bond that holds the pieces together. Use wood or cork blocking to protect the hitting area; raise this area a little.
Separate the parts of the table by first separating the leg assembly from the table top using the lever system. To do this, cut two wooden blocks with a total length slightly greater than the distance between the parts to be separated. Trim one end of each bar into a cup shape. Trim the other ends into a V and an upside-down V to connect these pieces. Position the lever so that its outer ends are as close as possible to the connections to be opened; place cork spacers between these ends and the table. Push with your hand, straightening the joint at the middle of the lever. To apply force to the short connections of the separable parts, make another two-piece lever or use a reactive clamp.
Analysis of frame-leg connections
Three types of connections. The most typical connection is the "socket-stud" connection, in which the stud on the frame is glued into the socket on the leg. Possible damage with such a connection is splitting of the nest or splitting of the spike.
Typical is such a butt joint, which is usually reinforced with dowels glued into the corresponding holes on each of the two elements. If the keys are broken, drill them out and replace or make a new connection. Butt joints with or without keys are sometimes further reinforced with corner plate or blocking.
If the legs are attached to the frame with beveled joints, the frame is covered with glue and screwed to the outside of each leg. The screw heads are installed below the frame surface in reverse-drilled holes filled with plastic bushings. If the screws fall out of the leg, pull or drill the bushings out of the frame, remove the screws, re-glue the connection and use new screws of the same length but one order of magnitude larger in diameter. You may need to enlarge the tops of the reverse-drilled holes for the screw heads, but do not re-drill the bottoms that are commensurate with the threads of the screws.
How to close a crack in the top of a table leg
Bonding a cracked nest . If a crack has formed around the socket at the top of the stem, squirt glue into the crack as well as into the hairline between the socket and the spike. Squeeze the connection with two clamps. First install the G-clip on the top of the leg to close the crack; then place a tubular or belt clip, extending from the outside of one leg to the outside of the other, to hold the spike in place. Let the glue dry overnight; then remove the clamps.
Broken spike repair
1. Preparation for fastening with dowels. If the tenon is severely cracked or broken, convert this connection to a keyed butt connection; cut the spike first and fill the socket. Cut the tenon flush with the part with a fine-toothed saw; even better with a spike saw. Clean the nest of glue and pieces of a broken spike with a chisel; mark and cut a wooden bushing the same size as the nest. Cover this bushing with glue and drive it into the socket. When the glue dries, saw off and trim any pieces of wood protruding from the nest.
2. Drilling and alignment of key holes. Draw two lines with a pencil across the end of the horizontal strapping about one-third of the way from the top and bottom. Install a keyed fixture in line and drill a hole 8 mm in diameter and 30 mm deep in the piping. Repeat these steps on the other line.
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| Repair with a broken spike. Preparing for doweling | Repair with a broken spike. Drilling and aligning key holes |
Insert keyed centers into the drilled holes, carefully align the strapping on the top of the leg, tap the other end of the strapping with a rubber mallet, applying enough force to drive the tips of the keyed centers into the leg and make marks. Use these marks to install the jig and drill two holes in the leg with a diameter of 8mm and a depth of 30mm.
Apply a thin coat of adhesive to the end of the horizontal piping and to two 8mm dowels, each 55mm long. Drive the dowels into the holes on the trim with a rubber mallet, insert them into the holes on the leg, and nail the trim into place. While the glue dries, squeeze the joint with a belt clip.
Corner fixing
Attach the metal corner plate (pictured below left) to the leg and, holding in place against the frame, attach one screw on each side. Drill a pilot hole in the leg through the center hole in the plate. Remove the screws holding the record and the record itself. Thread the bolt into the leg by wrapping it around the center with pliers and turning it until all the threads on the end of the bolt fit into the leg. Put the plate back in place by inserting all end screws to secure the plate to the frame. Install the lock washer and wing nut on the screw bolt and tighten it.
To attach the wooden corner brace (pictured below right), cut a triangular piece of hardwood (so that its structure runs from strap to strap) and cut it so that it fits into the leg. Attach the block to the frame with two #8 screws through the block and into the leg perpendicular to the frame - one screw on each side of the leg.
Leveling the folding board, sticking out the sliding table
Flap board jamming . To level a hanging flip board, mark the farthest point where the support sled or table leg touches the underside of the board; scrape off the old glue and trim and attach the tapered wedge to the board. Cut a wedge out of a piece of hardwood, apply glue to the top of it, and push it between the sled and the board, adjusting it until the board is level. Place a weight on top of the board while the glue dries.
Extendable table restoration . To unglue an extendable table with sticky wood straps, open it until it is fully stretched and use a chisel to scrape off any buildup of dirt and hardened grease from the inside of the strap. Apply fresh lubricant to all accessible moving parts using silicone spray and wax.
If the extension table has metal straps, clean the extensions with a pointed dowel or stick. Then sprinkle them with powdered graphite. If the wooden casement pin on the edge of the sliding board is broken, drill out the chip and replace it with a hardwood dowel. Glue one end of the key into the cleaned hole and sharpen the other end so that it fits freely into the casement hole, sanding it to round the ends and reduce the size.
FLAT is a table stabilization and alignment technology that offers functionality and cost savings never seen before in the HoReCa industry.
In 2006, Australian inventor Tony Pike offered restaurateurs his solution to the problem of wobbly tables. According to Tony himself, he took on this task after the words of a familiar restaurant owner - he, in passing, noticed that the first one to solve this problem would certainly become a billionaire. However, only in 2012, having received serious financial support, after improvements and improvements, the product entered the world market under the FLAT® trademark and has now won many awards and recognition. Chains like McDonald's and Burger King order FLAT products for their restaurants.
While FLAT® technology can serve as a solid foundation for just about everything from stairs and home appliances to helicopters, the restaurant business has seen the most interest. What are the benefits of FLAT® technology for hospitality workers?
Thanks to the hydraulic system built into the base of the table, the table not only remains stable on any surface and instantly adjusts to uneven floors, but it becomes possible to combine two or more tables without creating an annoying protrusion!
Now there is no need to constantly ensure that the table does not stagger by placing napkins, coasters under the table legs or twisting the screw legs. Moving tables has become easier, and docking of tabletops is perfect. Wobbling tables are no longer an inconvenience to customers and staff. Fewer customer complaints, less crockery. You save time on maintenance, and the institution's revenue grows due to mobility.
How does FLAT work?
FLAT technology reacts to changes in table pressure on the supports. When any of them lose contact with the surface, caused by an uneven floor, the technology immediately redistributes the load between the remaining legs. And a special patented mechanism fixes them in a new position. Thanks to this, all table legs always have a fulcrum under them. And no matter how many times you move the table - the system always works. And even daily cleaning of the premises will not cause more trouble - you do not need to worry about returning each table strictly to its place.
The second, no less important problem that FLAT solves is the combination of tables without a ledge. It rarely happens that two tables in a cafe or restaurant next to each other form a flat surface. The protrusion at the place of their connection looks terrible, interferes with serving, contributes to the tipping of glasses. Restaurant critics are unanimous on this issue - tables should be joined without a ledge.
Now, all you need to do for the perfect docking of two or more tables with FLAT technology is to combine their edges in just a second. You get a table twice the size. Now it doesn't look like tables randomly placed side by side - now it's a real big table for a big company.
You can get acquainted with the full range of products on our company's website at www.best4rest.ru or on the manufacturer's website www.flattech.com. To date, more than 2,000 bases are available for order at the SAAP Group warehouse in Moscow and from regional representatives.
A table with loose legs causes irritation, I want to remove it already from sight. But if the table itself is valuable, or you are used to it as a family heirloom, then you want to keep it. You can think about self-repair, especially since in most cases it is not too difficult to fix the structure.
We are talking about a table in which all the parts are intact, only the glued joints have parted. This happens with almost all pieces of furniture, having served for many years, the product requires repair. There are no obstacles in order to update the design with your own hands at home.
To work, you will need a hammer, glue, a thin brush, clamps or a belt with a clip, sanding paper. It must be understood that knocking down the legs with nails, or twisting with self-tapping screws will not work. Gouge the details, but there will be little sense. Just after such a repair, the table will definitely have to be thrown away.
Therefore, it is better to take the matter seriously, especially since there are no difficulties here.
The first thing we do in any repair option is to completely disassemble the loose base. If the assembly was on round spikes (dowels), then we clean them of the old glue and prepare to put them back in place. If the spikes are broken, you will have to re-drill the nests and use ready-made round dowels from the store.
The article is close to the topic, just with the replacement of broken dowels.
If the dowels are loose after cleaning, that is, they enter the nests too easily, then the thickness of the spike must be increased. This is done by winding gauze with glue, or sticking veneer on a dowel. After processing, we check how the spikes enter the sockets and, if necessary, sand them in thickness.
Pictures instructables.com
We apply glue to the dowels and be sure to the nests themselves. The brush usually does not fit there, so we apply the glue with a narrow wooden chip.
We insert the dowels into the sockets and assemble the connection by knocking the parts with a mallet, or with a hammer through a wooden block, so as not to damage the coating. In order for the parts to stick together well, it is necessary to compress the parts with clamps, or with a ratchet belt.
There is another way to qualitatively fix a loose leg. To do this, you need to buy corner ties for tables in the store, it is better to have four at once for all legs.
Then we proceed as follows: Remove the countertop and mechanisms, if the table is sliding. Then we take a screed, apply it inside the corner of the underframe and mark the installation site.
For greater rigidity, the ends of the plate are bent inward, therefore, according to the marking, it is necessary to make cuts on the sides.
We install the screed in the cuts and mark the place for screwing in the metal stud along the central hole. We drill a nest for a hairpin by 1-2 mm. smaller than the pin diameter.
We screw the pin into the table leg and pull the tie plate into place with self-tapping screws.
It remains only to screw the nut or lamb onto the stud and tighten the corner of the underframe well.
This method is good because, if necessary, the table can be pulled up again.
Of the negative points, there is only one, an expensive table assembled from precious wood will somewhat lose its value. Nevertheless, the classic assembly of furniture is done on spikes with glue.
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