How does the toilet cistern flush mechanism work? Operating principle, features and design of a flush tank with a button. Repair of a flush tank mechanism with a button.

When installing sanitaryware in a new house or recently purchased apartment, you need to worry in advance about the correct installation of the toilet, the tight connection of hoses and pipes, the serviceability of gaskets and fasteners. Old plumbing also occasionally requires a preventive inspection. Due to poor water quality, the fittings quickly wear out and fail, and then urgent repairs of the drain tank are required. Delay costs your home, including your downstairs neighbors, flooding.

What does a cistern consist of?

At first glance, it’s a simple device: a container equipped with a drain and water supply system. When you press the button, the mechanism releases water, the supply valve opens, and the empty container is refilled.

The main functional parts of the tank: 1(1) – inlet (filling) fittings; 1(2) – drain (drain) mechanism; 1(3) – water drain button. All details are interconnected

Video: how to remove the toilet lid

Do-it-yourself cistern repair

It turns out that even such a basic device can break down. Let's take a closer look at how you can troubleshoot problems without resorting to the help of plumbers.

Troubleshooting the float mechanism

If water constantly fills the tank and immediately flows into the toilet, look for a problem in the float mechanism. There may be several reasons for the breakdown:

• intake valve wear;
• misalignment of the lever (“rocker arm”);
• displacer malfunction.

The float (buoy) from long-term use develops cracks through which water enters it. It sinks and ceases to perform its main function - it simply needs to be replaced.

If the lever is bent, it is necessary to return it to the correct, horizontal position. The location of the lever is approximately 2 cm below the hole through which water enters.

Modern drain fitting kits have a different structure - they do not include a traditional float on a rocker arm, although the principle of operation of the mechanism has been preserved

The float mechanisms installed in the tanks of modern toilets can be divided into piston and membrane. The first ones have the simplest design, in which a piston with a sealing collar is pressed against the valve seat and thus shuts off the water supply. The latter are a relatively newer development - they can be found in the vast majority of modern waste cisterns. Instead of a piston with a gasket, they are equipped with a membrane made of wear-resistant silicone or latex, thanks to which the noise level can be significantly reduced during water collection.

The diaphragm valve of the flush tank, although it has a more complex design, has gained wide popularity due to its high reliability and quiet operation.

It is not difficult to guess that failure of the locking mechanism is most often associated with wear of the sealing gasket in the first case and the membrane in the second. In addition, malfunctions of the float valves may be associated with malfunctions of other parts of the mechanism:

• control lever axis;
• saddles;
• thrust cap.

Although the availability of inlet fittings of any size in the retail chain makes it possible to replace the entire assembly, there is no need to rush into this. A thrifty owner will definitely disassemble the mechanism and, after identifying the cause of the leak, will fix the breakdown using available means. Thus, the sealing gasket can be cut from a piece of genuine leather or thick rubber, the axle can be replaced with a piece of thicker wire or a nail, and the thrust cap can be cut from a suitable sealing material.

How to get rid of noise when filling the tank

The loud noise that accompanies the process of filling the tank with water creates discomfort for others. It is easy to get rid of it by adjusting the diameter of the inlet hole or adding a small plastic tube to the fittings. The water will no longer flow freely and noisily into the tank, but will flow through the tube, and accordingly, the loud sound will disappear. To do this, we put a tube 30-35 cm long with one end over the hole, and place the other below the water level with the tank drained. Even if the noise does not completely disappear, the plumbing will become quieter.

A plastic or rubber tube placed over the inlet hole muffles the noise of water entering the tank. This device is suitable for tanks with top supply

Replacing bolts in case of leakage

Here, most likely, the steel bolts that secure the tank to the toilet shelf have rotted - they need to be urgently replaced. Having purchased a new set of bolts, we proceed to dismantling the tank:

• turn off the water by turning the valve perpendicularly;
• dry everything inside and remove any remaining rusty fasteners;
• unscrew the nut and disconnect the inlet valve;
• unscrew the old bolts securing the tank to the toilet shelf;
• remove the tank from the thick rubber cuff;
• remove the old bolts. Both must be removed, even if only one of them is faulty;
• we clean the connection points of the bolts with the tank and the tank with the toilet;
• tighten new bolts;
• install the tank on the shelf, having previously secured the cuff;
• tighten the fasteners carefully so as not to damage the sanitaryware;
• let the water flow and check if it is leaking at the bottom of the tank; We flush the water a couple of times and check again.

Sometimes a leak may appear a little later, so for two days it is worth carefully examining the problem area from time to time. As you can see, it is not always necessary to carry out major repairs - sometimes it is enough to replace the fasteners.

To unscrew the bolts connecting the flush cistern to the toilet shelf, no special tool is needed: usually “ears” are provided for easy gripping

Toilet cistern fasteners are available at every plumbing store. The price of the cheapest one is 40-50 rubles, the more expensive option will cost 250-300 rubles

Expert opinion

Victor Kaploukhiy

If the toilet has been in use for a long time, then most likely the bolts connecting the tank and toilet bowl are so rusty that they cannot be unscrewed even with the use of universal penetrating lubricant WD-40. In this case, only a grinder will help, with which you need to carefully cut off the bolts from the underside of the shelf. It is best if someone at home holds the tank at the same time - this way it is guaranteed to remain intact. When looking for replacement fasteners, choose brass hardware. This alloy perfectly resists corrosion, so if the need for disassembly ever arises, you can do it without difficulty.

What to do when water constantly flows

There can be no talk of saving water if it constantly flows in a thin stream into the toilet, not allowing the required volume to accumulate in the container.

Most likely, the problem is in the siphon membrane, which has worn out and lost its ability to seal the hole hermetically. The problem is solved by simply replacing the membrane with a new one.

To do this, you need to perform several steps:

• drain the water;
• remove the siphon;
• remove the old membrane and install a new one;
• place the siphon in place, attach it to the lever, and screw in the fastening nut.

Sometimes the problem is not the membrane, but a broken rod, which can also be easily replaced.

The siphon membrane is located at the bottom of the drain fittings. It is a rubber gasket that ensures a tight connection of parts

Expert opinion

Victor Kaploukhiy

Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction.

The constant flow of water from the tank into the toilet is often not associated with any malfunction. A similar thing happens when, for some reason, the overflow regulation is disrupted. If the drain tube is positioned correctly, the water level in the tank will be 20 mm below the plane of its cut. At the same time, the edge of the drain channel must be more than 10 mm from the inlet pipe of the flexible liner.

What to do if the drain tank does not fill

So, suddenly the water completely stopped flowing into the tank. Will it be enough to repair it yourself, or will you have to turn to plumbers? Let's consider three ways to solve this problem.

First, let's check the serviceability of the supply hose. We turn off the water, disconnect the hose from the tank and place it above any container (you can also above the tank). We unscrew the valve a little and let the water flow again. If everything is in order with the hose, water will flow freely into the container. Otherwise you will have to replace it.

It is possible that the connection point of the supply hose is clogged, since after the pipeline is repaired, sand and other mechanical contaminants enter the water and can clog small holes. You can try to clear it with a long, sharp object, such as a screwdriver.

In addition, you should make sure that the coarse filter is clean if a modern shut-off valve with a diaphragm valve is installed in the tank. To do this, you need to disconnect the flexible line and use pliers with thin jaws to remove the filter from the supply pipe. To clean it from dirt, just place the part under a strong stream of water. If the filter is clogged with persistent deposits, then it should be placed in vinegar or a solution of citric acid for several hours, and then cleaned with a brush with stiff bristles.

The cost of a new supply hose is about 100 rubles. It is better to buy a product that has a shut-off valve - if the cistern leaks, it is much easier to turn off the water

If the failure of the float mechanism is due to wear of the intake valve, then it would be advisable to replace the assembly. The time and effort spent on repairs are not worth the couple of hundred rubles that will have to be paid for new fittings. As practice shows, only a few succeed in repairing the locking mechanism - most likely, you are not one of them.

Replacement of fittings

If you don’t want to tinker with small parts of the fittings that have become unusable, you can simply remove the old one and install a new mechanism purchased in a store in its place.

When removing old fittings, pay attention to faults. It may not be necessary to completely replace the mechanism; sometimes it is enough to change one small part

Fitting kits for flush tanks have design differences. For example, their structure varies depending on the type of eyeliner - side or bottom

First, let’s figure out how best to disassemble the structure using the example of reinforcement with bottom connections:

• turn off the water;
• carefully unscrew the button;
• remove the cover;
• disconnect the liner;
• We remove the drain column in parts: first we dismantle the upper part (rotating 90 degrees);
• unscrew the fasteners of the drain tank;
• we place it on the toilet for further work;
• unscrew two nuts: securing the valve and column, take out the second part of the fittings;
• we install a new mechanism and carry out reverse work on installing the tank.

As you can see, changing the components of the tank is not difficult: the whole operation takes no more than 10-15 minutes. Another advantage of doing it yourself is that no special tools are required; all actions are carried out using hands, pliers and wrenches.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Plumbing equipment is subject to intense operating loads and often fails. When the toilet tank constantly leaks, it causes great losses due to excessive water consumption. It is not advisable to call specialists because the device fails, since repairs mostly involve adjusting the tank mechanism. But to understand how to fix a toilet, you first need to know how it works. Let's figure out how to independently repair a toilet cistern with a button.

Toilet device

The toilet includes the following elements:

1. A toilet bowl connected to a sewer pipe with a sealed cuff.
2. Drainage tank with fittings that allow it to be filled with water and drained.

A water supply hose is connected to the tank. Depending on the design, it is connected from the side or from the bottom. The bowl and cistern are usually connected to each other using bolts and a seal.

Accessories components:

• rod release mechanism with drain button;
• a shut-off device (inlet valve) connected to a float;
• rubber sealing gaskets.

How a toilet with a button works

A toilet tank with a button is a water seal that is filled with a portion of water, which is supplied to the bowl when the valve is opened. The flush is controlled by a button that needs to be pressed. At the same time, the valve opens and the water flows down under its own weight, washing the bowl. After the tank is released, the shut-off valve at the inlet opens, the tank is filled with the next portion to a certain level, regulated using a float. Access to the mechanism is provided by opening the top cover of the tank.

Preparation for repair

Before you can repair the toilet cistern, you need to open it. It is only accessible from the top if you remove the cover. In many modifications it is attached using a ring around the button. This ring must be pressed and turned counterclockwise. After prolonged use, the ring may not turn. Then a few drops of oil are applied to the attachment point. After the ring has turned, unscrew it, and then release the button from the plastic clothespins and remove the cover.

Do-it-yourself methods for repairing the tank mechanism

Through the upper hole in the tank the entire mechanism of the drain fittings is visible. It may have the following faults:

1. The tank is constantly leaking.
2. There is no water pressure at the inlet.
3. Uncontrolled drain mechanism.

The causes of these malfunctions can be different, and the method in which the toilet cistern will be repaired depends on them.

• The plug (bulb) does not fit tightly to the drain hole. To avoid this, you should purchase high quality plumbing fixtures. The possibility of repair can be checked by pressing the rod with slight force. If water does not flow, the plug can be slightly weighted with additional weight or the stem can be leveled. You also need to periodically clean the seal from rust and salts, due to which the seal is broken and liquid constantly flows into the bowl.
• The regulator does not shut off the water supply. At the same time, the tank will never overfill, thanks to the presence of an overflow tube. The serviceability of each element of the device is checked: float, intake valve, fasteners, rod. The failed part is replaced or the float mount is simply tightened.
• Leaking from the tank into the room. It may have a crack or the gasket seal may be broken. Particular attention should be paid to the quality of the connection between the current tank and the bowl. It needs to be tightened, and if this does not help, the rubber gasket is changed. Another cause of a leak may be wear of the cuff at the junction of the bowl drain with the sewer pipe. The seal is replaced with a new one, having cleaned the connection of contaminants and treated the surfaces with sealant.
• Weak pressure through the inlet valve. This usually happens if it becomes clogged. This can be prevented by cleaning or installing a filter in front of it.

Intake Valve Replacement

Before repairing the toilet, you should turn off the water supply valve. It is connected to the pipeline from the riser. Then the flexible hose is unscrewed from the inlet mechanism. It can be easily removed if the fastening is loosened. A new or repaired one is installed in its place. Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Plastic threads do not require sealing, and fluoroplastic tape is wound onto brass threads.

Replacing the drain valve

The main reason is the wear of the o-ring under the valve. To replace it, you need to remove the fittings and install a new gasket. Then reassemble in reverse order.

The water release button should always be used carefully and pressed without any sudden force.

Adjusting the water level in the tank

The water level can be easily adjusted with your own hands. To do this, the float is installed in a certain position.

The optimal level is considered to be when the water supply to the container has stopped, and a few centimeters remain to its upper edge.

The adjustment method depends on the design of the valve. The simplest one is bending a metal rod. If the float moves along a horizontal plastic guide, it is fixed using fastening elements in a certain position. With a vertical layout, it is moved with an adjusting screw.

When choosing the filling level, do not forget about the overflow tube. Its upper edge should be a couple of centimeters above the water level in the filled container. If it is located lower, water will constantly flow into the bowl through the overflow.

Tank Troubleshooting

The tank may leak water due to a crack in it. The same applies to the cup. In this case, the question of how to repair the flush tank or bowl does not arise: the entire toilet is usually replaced. A small crack in the top of the ceramic pieces can be repaired. To prevent it from spreading further and increasing water seepage, it is drilled at the ends and treated along the entire length with sandpaper. The work is done carefully.

The surface is degreased and the gap is filled with epoxy resin. After hardening, the seam is sanded.

Repair of a built-in tank (with installation)

It is more difficult to get to the tank mechanism installed behind a false wall. First of all, you should purchase a device that is highly reliable and rarely requires repairs. There should be inspection hatches in the wall through which you can get to the tank and replace the gaskets if the seal is broken. It is not possible to repair the drain fittings yourself due to the complexity of the design.

A coarse filter is installed in front of the hidden tank, which captures solid particles, which in most cases cause leaks.

How to choose the right plumbing fixtures?

When choosing a toilet, pay attention to the following.

• Mounting method: monoblocks, compact and separate toilets. The choice is made taking into account the size of the room, design and labor intensity of servicing the tank.
• Accessories. Most parts that have low strength and reliability are made of plastic.
• The presence of positive reviews, a well-known manufacturer, a guarantee and a certificate.

It is impossible to call an apartment, private house or cottage comfortable if the drainage tank does not work well. There are a huge number of types of this type of plumbing in modern stores. But the structure of the internal mechanisms of a toilet cistern with a button does not have any special differences.

The operating principle is identical. If there are problems with the flow of water into the container, the drain mechanism of the tank is often the cause. We'll tell you how to troubleshoot the problem yourself below.

In contact with

How does a toilet work?

Toilet cistern device with button not particularly difficult. The insides of the cistern that make up the toilet flush valve are a few basic components:

• a hole for draining liquid, placed at a certain angle;
• an overflow tube installed at the side in relation to the drain hole;
• valve cover with rubber seal;
• a mechanism that performs the function of filling the tank;
• drain button.

The device responsible for properly filling the tank with water is the water supply mechanism. It consists of the following elements:

• device with a float;
• stop valve.

The operating principle of the float device is as follows. A float is directly attached to the lever mechanism, which is made from metal or plastic. As a result of changes in the filling level of the toilet bowl, the location of the float changes. When the container is filled to its maximum, the device is in the maximum raised position.

It is in this position lever acts on shut-off valves, which do not allow liquid to flow into the container. As soon as the liquid has drained, the float drops to the minimum level and the locking mechanism opens, as a result of which the liquid again begins to flow freely into the tank.

Operating principle of dual-mode drain

New generation models are equipped with a double flush button. According to experts, such a device helps save the amount of water consumed. This is achieved thanks to a two-mode drain mechanism:

1. The standard type of drain is the complete removal of water from the tank, which according to standards is from 4 to 6 liters.
2. The half type allows you to split the drain. At one time he can only drain half of the water in the tank. Usually this is 2–3 liters. It is this type that allows you to save water. But in terms of its functionality, it is more capricious in terms of adjustment and repair. This is justified by the fact that its device uses a larger number of parts. As a result, the likelihood of failure increases.

There is another option for a dual-mode mechanics device. The difference is that there is no flush button for the toilet, and the degree of flush depends on the degree to which you press the lever. If you press the lever lightly, the water begins to drain, and as soon as you release it, the mechanism closes again. To completely drain the tank, you need to press the lever firmly and all the way.

Adjusting the amount of water in the tank

In drainage containers, you can regulate the volume of liquid filling the tank. This function is performed by a knitting needle, at the end of which a float is attached. By changing its length, you can change the amount of water. In many models of flush tanks, the role of a lever is played by a brass wire. Changing its length is not difficult. If you bend it so that the float is higher, the amount of water will increase. Reducing the level of the float position will correspondingly reduce the degree of filling of the container.

In many versions, brass levers are replaced with plastic ones. In this case, it will not be possible to bend it and change the float level in this way. A device such as a pin placed along the axis of the lever is provided here. By moving it in one direction or the other, the lever arm is changed. The farther the float mechanism is located from the side of the toilet, the more water will flow into the container.

In those models that provide a lower water supply, the shoulder is placed vertically. In this case, adjustment is quite easy.

The float mechanism moves up or down, then fixed with a specially designed clamping device. But still there are some inconveniences. To make adjustments you have to remove the reservoir cap.

This procedure is complicated by the fact that a drain button is attached to the lid, which is directly connected to the drain mechanism. When disassembling, work must be done very carefully so as not to damage the entire system.

The fact that it is mainly consists of parts made of plastic. But the consolation is that both the entire mechanism and its individual parts are freely available in stores.

Important! Repair of the drain mechanism mainly depends on the type of breakdown. In some cases, it is possible to replace only a part, while in others it is easier to completely replace the fittings.

Design and installation of the drain mechanism

The corresponding mechanism is responsible for supplying liquid from the drainage section to the toilet bowl. Consists of the following devices:

• drain siphon;
• handle that controls the release lever.

The siphon fits tightly to the drain hole, which does not allow water to pass through unnecessarily. This device is divided into several types:

• Simplified. It is a cylindrical device made of dense rubber, commonly called a pear. The mechanism for lifting the pear is most often a lever, the location of which is determined on the side of the tank. In other cases - a handle located on the lid. To activate it, you need to lift the handle up.
• The button responsible for draining the liquid is installed in models that are developed using new technologies. Placed on the product panel located in the foreground. Most often found on products mounted directly into the wall.

After completing the installation work in the bathroom, they begin to install the flush tank, or rather, to assemble the internal system.

How to assemble the tank? To perform this procedure, you must follow the following instructions:

1. A rubber gasket is installed on the drain mechanism.
2. Place the mechanism directly into the container and screw it with a plastic nut.
3. On fasteners washers made of plastic or metal are put on. This already depends on how the product is equipped. Don't forget about rubber gaskets. Then the bolts are inserted into the holes, and the nuts are mounted on the back side, having previously installed.
4. Rubberized rings are put on the plastic nut for sealing. In the case when a new element is used, there is no need to carry out sealing measures. Otherwise, it is necessary to carefully treat all connections with sealant.

Advice! need to be carefully inspect all parts to identify defects. If there are any at the joints, then they must be treated with sealant. The O-ring is also sealed. The assembly diagram included with each plumbing product will be of great help.

Prices for a toilet flush mechanism

toilet flush mechanism

Possible faults

In the case when the installation of the fittings has been completed and put into operation, it is necessary to monitor their serviceability. After some time, some malfunctions may arise that can be easily eliminated yourself. Let's look at the problems that arose with the water supply.

The most common breakdown is that water does not enter the tank or, conversely, its supply does not stop. The cause of such breakdowns is valve responsible for supplying liquid, or directly the float. Floats are designed in the form of hollow cylinders or inverted glasses.

Floats of the first type cannot be repaired; they should be completely replaced. Sometimes you have to replace the entire valve. If we talk about a float in the form of an inverted glass, then the cause of the problem may be the formation of dirt and other deposits in it. The solution to the problem is to clean the float of deposited contaminants.

In the case when everything is fine with the float, but water still does not stop flowing, the cause of the breakdown may be a worn valve membrane. Most often, spare parts are included. Otherwise, the part is purchased and replaced. To do this, you need to remove the cap from the valve, and the worn membrane is removed. A new part is installed in its place. Then it is closed with a cap again. Don’t forget to clean the hole through which water enters the tank.

It happens that water begins to flow out through the overflow. In this case, again pay attention to the float and adjust it. If this doesn't help, then start checking the studs. If damaged, it must be replaced with a new one or simply with copper wire.

Important! If several breakdowns occur, you should carefully examine the fittings, identify the worn part and replace it. Very often it is necessary to completely change the mechanism if several parts are worn out.

As you can see, the toilet structure is not complicated. The design of the tank includes two working mechanisms. The first is for supplying and monitoring the level of liquid in the flush tank, and the second is for draining water into the toilet bowl.

Useful video: installation of a toilet flush mechanism

Today there are several types of models, but the principle of operation is largely similar. Masters note that in all existing types it is absolutely easy to install, adjust and repair yourself: even a child can understand how the toilet works. Many problems can be solved on the spot yourself and without waiting for a plumber. But if we are talking about a modern set that is built into the wall, then in this case it is better to turn to experienced craftsmen.

A toilet flush system is a mechanism that is mounted inside the tank. To make using the toilet convenient, the flush mechanism must be correctly selected, installed and configured. It is these issues that the article will be devoted to.

System Description

Principle of operation

The design of the drain tank is not complicated. The tank is a container with a mechanical locking system inside.

This system performs the following functions:

• controlled drainage of water from the tank;
• filling the tank with water after draining;
• stopping the flow of water into the tank after it is filled at a certain level.

The toilet cistern flush mechanism works like this:

1. Through the fill valve in the bottom or wall of the tank, water enters the container.
2. As the container fills, control devices (floats, valves, etc.) are activated. As soon as the water level in the tank reaches the set value, the supply stops. To do this, the filling valve is blocked.

1. When we need to drain, we press a button on the tank or pull a lever. As a result, the drain valve in the bottom opens and water flows into the toilet bowl.

1. Tanks with two buttons work similarly. By pressing the smaller one, we release only part of the water from the tank, and by pressing the larger one, we ensure complete drainage. This helps save fluid, which is why most modern models are equipped with just such two-button mechanisms.
2. After draining, the water level drops, the control devices are activated and the inlet valve opens again.

By and large, this is how all water drainage/receipt systems work, regardless of their design. Of course, there are nuances, but if you understand the general principle, you will most likely be able to deal with unfamiliar fittings quite quickly.

Essential elements

In order for the entire water supply system to function as I described above, several parts must interact. They may look different for different mechanisms, but in general the set is quite typical.

It includes:

1. Filling (inlet) valve. It is a threaded pipe that is inserted into the hole in the bottom or side wall of the tank. The presence of a thread allows you to press the pipe against the wall of the container using nuts, ensuring. A locking mechanism connected to the rocker is responsible for opening/closing the gap through which water flows.

1. The rocker arm is the lever that drives the intake valve mechanism. The free end of the rocker arm is attached to either a float (a plastic sealed container) or a control valve. When this valve is triggered or the float floats up, the rocker arm rises and closes the gap in the filling valve, and vice versa.
2. The drain hole is normally closed by a drain valve. It is a flat or hemispherical elastic gasket connected by a hinge to the load-bearing part.

1. On top is a push-button or lever mechanism that controls the operation of the drain valve. When used, its load-bearing part rises (either a chain, a lever, or a plastic frame is used as traction), opening the hole. Water enters the bowl at a fairly high speed, and all the contents are washed down the drain.

These elements can be arranged in different ways. In older models, water supply systems with overflow control and flushing systems with control levers/buttons were mounted separately. Modern fittings are usually produced as a single complex. On the one hand, it is easier to install and configure, but on the other hand, repairs are seriously complicated.

Varieties and their choice

A convenient toilet flush is very important for the comfortable use of the device, so it is advisable to choose a model quite pickily. There are several factors to consider.

The first factor is the placement of the filling valve:

• lower - the pipe is located in the bottom of the drain tank. A pair of gaskets are responsible for sealing;
• side - a pipe with a valve is inserted into the tank through a hole in the side wall, located almost under the lid. In this case, the entry point is made conditionally airtight, because water usually does not reach it.

In terms of efficiency and comfort, I would recommend models with a bottom connection. They do not make as much noise when filling, and shut-off valves of this configuration are also more reliable. The weak point is the gasket, so the tightness must be monitored very carefully.

• older models are equipped with a lever, to which a chain or cord with a handle is usually attached. Among modern products, this arrangement is found only in antique-style toilets;
• button is a universal solution for all mass-produced tanks. The advantage is the relatively small stroke, which at the same time allows you to control the volume of water drained;
• The dual-mode tank is equipped with a two-button system. In it, one button is responsible for emptying part of the tank, the second is for the hollow drain. The system is more economical, but also more capricious - it is more difficult to configure and repair.

Here the choice is quite obvious - a push-button or two-button option.

Finally, we pay attention to the overflow control mechanism.

Here the choice is much wider, but from the point of view of a simple “user”, two options can be distinguished:

• float system - the shut-off valve is controlled by a rocker arm or lever connected to a float.
• membrane system - when filling the tank, water acts on the membrane unit, which activates the locking mechanism.

Despite the fact that many plumbing manufacturers have recently installed a membrane system, I would recommend abandoning it.

Yes, it works well, but there are two nuances:

1. The membrane fails unpredictably, so at one “perfect” moment the overflow blocking may simply turn off. If you have good sound insulation and you don’t hear the murmur, the consequences will be serious.

1. If the mechanism fails, it is quite difficult to repair it even with a new membrane. After replacing a worn element, adjustment takes a very long time, but this does not guarantee that the diaphragm valve will operate 100% of the time.

It’s not news to anyone that the water recovery device is capable of failure. For such a situation, the design of the flush mechanism of the toilet cistern has an overflow. As soon as the water exceeds the designated level, it will begin to flow into the corresponding tube and will go directly through the bowl into the sewer. The device is designed so that liquid cannot leak out of the tank. If this transfusion works, it will lead to an increase in the cold water meter data, but most importantly, it will prevent a flood. The toilet flush is divided into horizontal and circular according to its design.

Horizontal implies the supply of water in a single stream along one side of the bowl and is a classic version.

The round descent involves the formation of a jet in a circular manner, starting from the contour of the bowl and is considered the best in terms of all user characteristics.

The optimal solution in such a situation is to change not the membrane, but the entire fittings, albeit with a cheaper float one.

Tank maintenance

Installation of the mechanism

If necessary, you can install the drain mechanism in the tank yourself. This is done either when replacing a failed system, or when purchasing a separate tank and separate fittings.

In this case, work is performed according to the following algorithm:

1. For replacement, we purchase fittings suitable for our tank model. The most important parameters are the location of the inlets (top or side), their sizes, the size of the drain hole and the overall dimensions. Ideally, it is advisable to take a mechanism for the same model - it will definitely work.
2. Now turn off the water and press the drain button to remove everything that remains in the tank.

1. The toilet flush button is carefully unscrewed, after which we are able to remove the lid.
2. Disconnect the water supply hose.
3. Unscrew the nuts securing the filler pipe. We remove the part itself from the hole.

For structures with bottom water supply, it is advisable to place a small container under the hole. Liquid that collects at the bottom of the tank and does not go down the drain will flow into it.

1. We dismantle the internal part of the fittings, removing it from the tank.

1. We unscrew the bolts that secure the tank to the toilet bowl and remove it. We dismantle the lower part of the drain system and sealing gaskets.

This completes the disassembly. Now you can wipe the inside of the tank and the holes in the bowl to remove deposits. At the same time, it is worth cleaning the channels in the side parts of the bowl that ensure the distribution of drained water - they can become clogged with debris and lime deposits. Usually it’s impossible to get to these places, but here is the opportunity!

The installation instructions for the drain mechanism suggest performing the work in the reverse order:

1. We install the lower part of the drain system with sealing gaskets into the hole.
2. We put the tank in place, level it and fix it with mounting bolts.

Poor quality bolts may rust over long periods of use. Parts with signs of corrosion should be replaced with new ones.

1. We install the inner part of the drain mechanism, securing it to the drain hole.
2. We insert the filling valve into the hole in the side wall or bottom of the tank and secure it with a nut and sealing gaskets.

1. We connect the water supply hose to the outlet pipe of the filling valve. We turn on the water and check how the system works.
2. We adjust the operation of the mechanism, if necessary, adjusting the height of the overflow (about 20 mm below the top hole) and the length of the rod connecting the drain to the button.

1. If the drainage, filling and overflow control function correctly, and no leaks appear at the mounting points, replace the cover. We fix the lid on the tank by screwing the button.

Of course, differences in models may cause deviations from this algorithm. But, at the same time, most cisterns are designed exactly according to this scheme, which is why in 95% of cases this is how toilet fittings are installed.

The exception is built-in models, in which the drain mechanism and tank are located in the wall. If you have just such a device, and it shows signs of malfunction, the best solution would be to contact a specialist!

Trouble-shooting

Despite the fact that the price of fittings for a drain tank is relatively low, in some cases you can do without replacing it. To do this, it is enough to carry out relatively simple repairs or buy one or two parts.

When identifying a malfunction, the easiest way is to open the tank lid, gaining access to its insides, and see what, in fact, is not working as it should. If the system is at least somewhat familiar to you, then to understand the reasons, it is enough to drain and fill the water a couple of times.

In addition, for quick diagnosis and troubleshooting, you can use the table:

Malfunction	What to do
Overflow control does not work	The most common reason is a misalignment of the rocker arm or lever holding the float. After the distortion is eliminated, the float begins to move as it should again, and the system’s functionality is restored. For membrane models, the valve hole may remain open even when the rocker moves to the upper position. In this case, you need to adjust the membrane or replace it. Another reason is perforation of the float with water ingress. As a temporary measure, drain the water and seal the hole in the housing with moisture-resistant sealant. The float needs to be replaced soon. If all operations are unsuccessful, then the problem is in the intake valve itself, which requires replacement.
Leaks at the fill valve	They usually occur when the sealing gasket wears out. In the early stages, the problem is eliminated by tightening the fastening nut. If this does not help, you need to drain the water, remove the valve and replace the gasket that ensures a tight connection to the tank.
The drain button does not work	The most common cause is a misalignment of the lever connecting the button to the drain valve. After eliminating the distortion, the situation is corrected. Somewhat less frequently, the problem is caused by the breakdown of plastic parts of the fittings. In this case, replacement of the drain mechanism is required. When using the tank for the first time, the situation may be caused by incorrect adjustment of the system. To fix the problem, you need to select the height of the drain cup that matches the height of the tank and fix it in the desired position.
Weak water pressure when filling	If everything is in order with the pressure in the system, then we dismantle the water supply hose and clean it, removing lime deposits that may block the clearance. If cleaning is not possible, then replace the hose. If cleaning/replacing the hose does not solve the problem (i.e. the outlet pressure is sufficient), we inspect the inlet valve. To do this, forcefully open it completely and check the throughput. If necessary, we adjust the overflow system, clean the internal chamber of the valve or replace it.

Conclusion

The toilet flush mechanism is not the most complex design. The tips and illustrations in this article will help you understand how it works, how to install it and, if necessary, repair it. The video in this article contains more visual information, and you can ask questions in the comments.

Integral attributes of comfortable living are the amenities of civilization familiar to humans, such as ergonomic furniture, stable water supply, properly planned lighting and plumbing that works without interruption. The proper operation of all the equipment listed is taken for granted, and a breakdown almost always comes as a surprise, bringing a lot of trouble. Most often, the object of increased attention of homeowners is plumbing, and in order to ensure its uninterrupted functioning, it is necessary to take care in advance of its correct installation, which implies a strong connection of pipes and hoses, serviceability of fasteners and gaskets. If plumbing equipment is used for a long period of time, a necessary condition for its uninterrupted operation is preventive inspections, which will allow timely detection of wear on fittings caused by inadequate water quality. Timely maintenance of plumbing equipment will prevent flooding in your home and the homes of your neighbors. In the event of a breakdown of plumbing equipment, the best solution is to call a plumber who will fix the breakdown as quickly and efficiently as possible. If you do not have the opportunity to call a specialist, you can independently repair the toilet cistern, the technology of which is not difficult.

The principle of the toilet: basic principles

To understand the breakdown and find the most optimal way to fix it, you need to study the theoretical foundations of plumbing equipment and understand how the water drain in the toilet works. Regardless of the design features of the toilet, any model is characterized by the presence of two main parts - a bowl located on the floor or mounted on the wall, and a water container located on top. It is this container that is the drain tank. The functioning of water drainage is based on the “hydraulic seal” principle, which involves flushing water into the drain under the influence of gravity when you press a button (lever), which opens the plug.

Differences between toilet flush cisterns: classification of flush cisterns

The modern market for plumbing equipment offers the consumer a wide selection of different drainage devices of various types and types. There are a large number of varieties of cisterns, which can be classified according to the many characteristics presented below.

Location of the tank in relation to the toilet

The traditional method of installing toilets, which has not lost its relevance today, involves the creation of a continuous structure that combines the cistern and toilet into a single whole. The advantage of this installation method is that there is no need to install an outlet pipe connecting the toilet bowl and the flush cistern.

Despite the advantages and reliability of the traditional installation method, concealed designs and wall-hung toilets are gaining popularity. The first option is ideal for apartments with European-quality renovation. It involves installing the cistern inside the wall in such a way that it becomes completely invisible. The system is started by pressing a special button located on the panel.

Hanging structures are another newfangled way to install toilets, which involves hanging the cistern at a certain height from the toilet bowl. A special feature of this design is the strong water pressure, which guarantees efficient drainage. However, it also has disadvantages, one of which is the excessive noise that is created during the process of draining water. Despite the presence of disadvantages, in general, such designs are considered one of the most practical and convenient, and their appearance will be an excellent addition to a retro-style interior.

Main types of triggers

The most common types of release mechanisms are push-button and rod drain devices, which have proven themselves to be one of the most reliable and durable systems. Push-button flush mechanisms are most relevant for closed-type flush tanks. Their main element is a button, which can be located on the side of the drain bowl or in the center. There are single- and dual-mode push-button mechanisms. The latter implies the presence of two buttons: one of them drains the water completely, and the second half. This design principle will allow you to save water when the need arises. A similar principle of operation of a drainage device can be implemented using a single button, if the amount of water drained is determined by the degree to which the button is pressed.

Drain devices based on levers or chains are also gaining popularity. The manufacturer prefers to place such mechanisms in the side part of the drain structure. To drain the water, simply pull the lever or chain. This type of drainage system will be most relevant for wall-hung toilets. Due to these features, repairing a wall-hung toilet cistern will be slightly different. Regardless of the chosen type of installation of the flush tank, a distinction is made between a manual release mechanism, which involves manually setting the volume of water to be drained, and an automatic one.

Features of the water collection system

There are several types of fittings that regulate water supply:

• Lateral water supply, which involves the placement of fittings from above, is typical for plumbing equipment from Russian manufacturers. Despite the fact that plumbing fixtures equipped with this mechanism are characterized by low cost, they are not in high demand, which is due to the rather noisy supply of water. Models that are more expensive are characterized by the use of a special tube that reduces noise, which helps supply water directly to the bottom.
• Lower water supply is typical for models from both domestic and foreign manufacturers that belong to a fairly high price category. The features of the bottom water supply mechanism reduce water noise to a minimum.

The device of the cistern: the main elements

In order to correctly determine the causes of malfunctions and eliminate them in a timely manner, it is necessary to have at least a general understanding of the internal structure of the drain tank. Despite the differences in the reinforcement structures of the cistern, it is characterized by a single design. The internal structure of the drain tank implies the presence of the following elements:

• The shut-off or flush valve regulates the flow of water from the cistern into the toilet and prevents it from leaking unnecessarily. During the process of filling the tank, the water in it helps to tightly press the surface of the valve to the toilet flush, which stops the leakage of water. Thus, if the cistern is leaking water, this is due to a malfunction of the shut-off valves;
• A fill valve, which is combined with a water supply device and is designed to regulate the water level in the drain tank. When water reaches a certain level, its supply to the tank stops. The water level indicator is a float connected to the filling valve via a brass rod. If the first models of drainage devices assumed a lateral location of the filling valve and a horizontal placement of the float, then modern models of plumbing, while maintaining the traditional principle of operation, provide for the location of the filling valve in the lower part of the drain bowl, while the float is characterized by a vertical placement;

Important! Problems that lead to the need to repair the toilet cistern are most often associated with a malfunction of this particular mechanism and in most cases come down to its adjustment.

• A mechanism for draining and overflowing water, the design of which is represented by plastic fittings equipped with start buttons. Its function is to prevent water from entering the room from the tank in the event of a malfunction of the float valve. The water overflow system connected to the drain comes into operation after pressing the start button. Excess water does not spill out due to the connection of the drain mechanism with overflow devices, which facilitates the release of excess water into the sewer system. An important element of the system is a float valve connected to a float that regulates the water level in the tank. Malfunctions associated with the functioning of the float valve lead to water leaks from the tank.

Important! Each of these elements can become unusable, which will lead to the need for repair. In this regard, there is no need to consider problems associated with damage to the tank body, since in practice the elimination of cracks and chips of the body is almost impossible. This is due to the ineffectiveness of even the most modern adhesives, which is becoming the most common reason for replacing a toilet tank.

The most common malfunctions of the drain tank: methods for eliminating them

Water leakage into the room: causes and methods of troubleshooting

If you notice water appearing in the room, this is most likely caused by faulty fastenings. In this case, inexperienced homeowners will most likely panic and, thinking about replacing plumbing fixtures, will begin to search for an answer to the question: “How to install a toilet and avoid its breakdowns during operation?” But don’t rush, this problem can be easily fixed. Let's consider the most common causes of this malfunction:

• Wear of the sealing ring installed between the tank and the toilet bowl;
• Violation of the integrity of the gaskets of the mounting bolts.

All these faults do not require complex diagnostics and can be detected even with a simple visual inspection. If you find these faults, try to tighten the fasteners without using excessive force, which could cause the tank to break or even compromise its integrity.

If you have performed the above manipulations and they were unsuccessful, experts recommend removing the drain tank and replacing the rubber seal on the drain channel. They also recommend replacing the gaskets and washers on the mounting bolts.

Important! To increase the density of joints, making them more reliable, experts recommend additional sealing with silicone.

What to do if water does not enter the tank?

This breakdown is also not uncommon, and its most common cause lies in clogging of the narrowest part of the valve. Fixing this problem will not cause difficulties - to do this, just release all the water from the tank and unscrew the valve along with the lever and float. After this, you will notice a fairly narrow hole designed for water to enter the tank. To remove blockages, clean it with a needle or thin wire. Next, you need to slightly unscrew the valve on the inlet pipe and flush out the remaining blockage. After making sure that water flows freely through the hole into the tank, tighten the valve and set the valve with the lever and the float to its original position.

Constant flow of water from the tank into the toilet: causes and solutions to the problem

The causes of this malfunction may be:

• Skewed float lever;

How to fix it? If you encounter this problem, it is enough to give the lever the optimal position for it.

Float damage, leading to the fact that it begins to let water inside itself. This inevitably leads to its rushing to the bottom of the tank, that is, the water that gets inside the float prevents it from returning to its original position, at which the flow of tap water is blocked. If this does not happen, excess water is discharged into the toilet through the overflow system.

How to fix it? The only possible option for effective repair, in this case, is to replace the part.

To do this, the water is shut off along the riser, the device is dismantled, and a new, pre-purchased similar part is installed in its place.

Important! In order to repair toilet cistern fittings as efficiently as possible, when selecting them, experts recommend paying attention to the dimensions and design features of the parts, since some of them are not always interchangeable.

Important! In most cases, modern floats are made from plastic or stainless steel. Floats made from these materials are practically not subject to leakage.

Wear of sealing elements of drain fittings. Finding out whether the cause of the malfunction really lies in the wear of the sealing elements is quite simple. To do this, just slightly press the valve with your hand: if water starts flowing, then you are not mistaken, the problem really lies in the wear of the shut-off valve, rubber gaskets or seal. This breakdown can be eliminated by replacing consumables.

Float wear can also cause persistent leaks. In this case, a hole forms in the float, through which water flows out.

Important! If you do not have the necessary parts on hand when the problem occurs, perform a “temporary” repair. To do this, the hole formed in the float is sealed with heated plastic or the failed float is wrapped in a plastic bag, thereby sealing it. It is important to remember to secure it around the float lever.

Repairing a toilet cistern with a button: procedure

How to remove the cover with one button?

• Unscrew the locking ring around the button. At the same time, it is important to avoid strong pressure on it, since plastic is used in most cases to make rings;
• Remove the cover and begin repairs.

As mentioned above, there may be several reasons for the constant leakage of water from the tank into the toilet:

• Incorrect position of the float - in this case, simply remove the toilet lid and adjust the float.
• The rubber bulb on the float valve is worn out, as a result of which it does not provide a tight seal.

In this case, it is necessary to replace it. To do this, fix the float in the upper position and, by unscrewing the nut connecting the tank and the drain pipe, remove the entire mechanism;

• Remove the old bulb and replace it with a similar model with similar characteristics.
• If the bolts holding the bulb are worn out, they must be replaced.
• To do this, drain the water from the tank, removing any remaining water;
• Unscrew the union nut located between the flexible hose and the float valve, as well as the bolts. With a little effort, tilt the tank and shelf back, releasing the rubber cuff located between the tank and the toilet;
• Unscrew the damaged bolt, as well as its pair, and remove them. It is important to replace both bolts, even if the integrity of the second is not yet compromised. To replace, select bolts of similar sizes made of brass or stainless steel;
• Remove the earthenware under the seat of the pear and clean it thoroughly, performing similar actions with the shelf and tank. Coat the bulb with silicone sealant, which will subsequently solve problems with its wear and prevent the need to replace it;
• After assembling the tank, tighten the structure with new bolts, while avoiding distortions. To prevent damage to fragile earthenware, do not use excessive force during assembly;
• Turn on the water and fill the tank, paying close attention to see if there are any leaks.

Failure of the trigger lever: how to fix it?

How can you determine that in your case this is exactly the problem? It's quite simple: if you pressed the water release button, but the drainage did not start, this chapter will be useful for you.

The reason for such a malfunction lies in the violation of traction, and the only correct solution is to replace it.

Important! In this case, you can also make a “temporary repair” by making a rod from thick wire and twisting it in several layers. However, improvised traction does not have a long service life - over time, the wire will begin to bend, which will also lead to its failure.

Before you begin repairing the old toilet cistern in this case, loosen the button from the cistern lid. To do this, turn the decorative nut a few turns - in most cases this is enough to lift the cover, gaining access to the mechanism.

Noisy filling of the tank with water: how to fix it?

Often craftsmen have to face this problem, and this is especially true for owners of plumbing equipment characterized by the presence of tanks with a side water supply. After a certain period of time, the tank’s capacity begins to fill with noise, which was not the case “at the dawn” of operation.

Most often, the cause of this malfunction is the disconnection of the water muffler, which is a special tube through which water is supplied to the lower part of the tank without any noise effects.

To eliminate this malfunction, put the damper on a specially designed fitting.

Repair of toilet cistern with video button