Original LED RGB lamp designed for the widest possible use. It will decorate a holiday, a house party, a children's room, a cafe, attract attention to a store window, create a New Year's mood and much more! As they say, everything ingenious is simple, you just need to screw a light bulb into a socket for an ordinary light bulb and turn on the light. Thanks to the shape of the lamp and the rotation of the base with many lenses that refract the LED light, an extraordinary kaleidoscopic effect of movement in the room of many colored rays and highlights is created! The lamp can be easily screwed into a socket for a regular lamp, or plugged into a socket using an additional adapter!
Peculiarities:
Long service life, low power consumption
No UV rays, no mercury, safe for people and the environment
High impact resistance, will not break when dropped
Almost does not heat up during operation
Silent motor, automatic rotation
Socket adapter included
Universal application
Characteristics:
● Original name: Dancing RGB LED Full Color Rotating Lamp E27
● LED power: 3x1 W
● LED color: green, red, blue
● Service life - up to 20,000 hours of continuous operation
● Energy savings of 80%.
● Power: 85V - 260V
● Housing material: plastic, plexiglass, aluminum
● Size: 17x9 cm
● Weight 100 g
● Certification: CE RoHS
Equipment:
RGB lamp E27
Adapter Euro standard plug/E27 socket
Packaging/box
Despite the diversity on the country's shelves, they remain unrivaled due to their cost-effectiveness and durability. However, a quality product is not always purchased, because in a store you cannot take the product apart for inspection. And even in this case, it is not a fact that everyone will determine from what parts it is assembled. burn out, and buying new ones becomes expensive. The solution is to repair LED lamps yourself. Even a novice home craftsman can do this work, and the parts are inexpensive. Today we will figure out how to check in what cases the product is repaired and how to do it.
It is known that LEDs cannot operate directly from a 220 V network. To do this, they need additional equipment, which, most often, fails. We'll talk about it today. Let's consider the circuit, without which the operation of the lighting device is impossible. At the same time, we will conduct an educational program for those who do not understand anything about radio electronics.
driver gauss 12w
The 220 V LED lamp driver circuit consists of:
- diode bridge;
- resistance;
- resistors.
The diode bridge serves to rectify the current (converts it from alternating to direct). On the graph it looks like cutting off a half-wave of a sine wave. Resistors limit the current, and capacitors store energy, increasing the frequency. Let's look at the operating principle of a 220 V LED lamp.
The principle of operation of the driver in an LED lamp
| View on the diagram | Operating procedure |
 | A voltage of 220 V is supplied to the driver and passes through a smoothing capacitor and a current-limiting resistor. This is necessary in order to protect the diode bridge. |
 | Voltage is supplied to a diode bridge, consisting of four differently directed diodes, which cut off the half-wave of the sine wave. The output current is constant. |
 | Now, by means of a resistance and a capacitor, the current is again limited and the desired frequency is set. |
 | Voltage with the necessary parameters is supplied to unidirectional light diodes, which also serve as a current limiter. Those. when one of them burns out, the voltage increases, which leads to failure of the capacitor if it is not powerful enough. This happens in Chinese products. High-quality devices are protected from this. |
Having understood the principle of operation and the driver circuit, the decision on how to repair a 220V LED lamp will no longer seem difficult. If we talk about quality products, then you shouldn’t expect any troubles from them. They work for the entire prescribed period and do not fade, although there are “diseases” to which they are also susceptible. Let's talk about how to deal with them now.
Reasons for failure of LED lighting devices
To make it easier to understand the reasons, let’s summarize all the data in one common table.
| Cause of failure | Description | Solution |
| Voltage drops | Such lamps are less susceptible to breakdowns due to voltage surges, however, sensitive surges can “break through” the diode bridge. As a result, the LED elements burn out. | If surges are sensitive, you need to install one, which will significantly extend the life of the lighting equipment, but also other household appliances. |
| Incorrectly selected lamp | Lack of proper ventilation affects the driver. The heat it generates is not removed. The result is overheating. | Choose one with good ventilation that will provide the necessary heat exchange. |
| Installation errors | Incorrectly selected lighting system and its connection. Incorrectly calculated electrical wiring cross-section. | Here the solution would be to unload the lighting line or replace lighting fixtures with devices that consume less power. |
| External factor | Increased humidity, vibration, shock or dust if the IP is incorrectly selected. | Correct selection or elimination of negative factors. |
Good to know! Repair of LED lamps cannot be carried out indefinitely. It is much easier to eliminate negative factors that affect durability and not purchase cheap products. Savings today will result in costs tomorrow. As economist Adam Smith said, “I am not rich enough to buy cheap things.”
Repairing a 220 V LED lamp with your own hands: nuances of the work
Before you repair an LED lamp with your own hands, pay attention to some details that require less labor. Checking the cartridge and the voltage in it is the first thing to do.
Important! Repairing LED lamps requires a multimeter - without it you will not be able to ring the driver elements. You will also need a soldering station.
household multimeters
A soldering station is necessary for repairing LED chandeliers and lamps. After all, overheating of their elements leads to failure. The heating temperature when soldering should be no higher than 2600, while the soldering iron heats up more. But there is a way out. We use a piece of copper wire with a cross-section of 4 mm, which is wound onto the soldering iron tip in a tight spiral. The more you lengthen the tip, the lower its temperature. It is convenient if the multimeter has a thermometer function. In this case, it can be adjusted more accurately.
Soldering Station
But before you repair LED spotlights, chandeliers or lamps, you need to determine the cause of the failure.
How to disassemble an LED light bulb
One of the problems that a novice home DIYer faces is how to disassemble an LED light bulb. To do this you will need an awl, solvent and a syringe with a needle. The LED lamp diffuser is glued to the body with sealant, which needs to be removed. Carefully running an awl along the edge of the diffuser, inject the solvent with a syringe. After 2-3 minutes, easily twisting, the diffuser is removed.
Some lighting fixtures are made without sealant. In this case, it is enough to rotate the diffuser and remove it from the body.
Determining the cause of failure of an LED light bulb
After disassembling the lighting fixture, pay attention to the LED elements. Burnt is often identified visually: it has scorch marks or black dots. Then we replace the faulty part and check its functionality. We will tell you in detail about the replacement in step-by-step instructions.
If the LED elements are in order, move on to the driver. To check the functionality of its parts, you need to remove them from the printed circuit board. The value of resistors (resistance) is indicated on the board, and the parameters of the capacitor are indicated on the case. When testing with a multimeter in the appropriate modes, there should be no deviations. However, often failed capacitors are identified visually - they swell or burst. The solution is to replace it with suitable technical parameters.
Replacing capacitors and resistances, unlike LEDs, is often done with a regular soldering iron. In this case, care should be taken not to overheat nearby contacts and elements.
Replacing light bulb LEDs: how difficult is it?
If you have a soldering station or hair dryer, this work is simple. It is more difficult to work with a soldering iron, but it is also possible.
Good to know! If you don’t have working LED elements at hand, you can install a jumper instead of the burnt one. Such a lamp will not work for a long time, but it will be possible to gain some time. However, such repairs are carried out only if the number of elements is more than six. Otherwise, a day is the maximum work of the repair product.
Modern lamps operate on SMD LED elements, which can be desoldered from the LED strip. But it is worth choosing the ones that are suitable according to technical characteristics. If there are none, it is better to change everything.
Related article:
To choose the right LED devices, you need to know not only the general ones. Information about modern models and electrical diagrams of working devices will be useful. In this article you will find answers to these and other practical questions.
Repairing an LED lamp driver if you have an electrical diagram of the device
If the driver consists of SMD components that are smaller in size, we will use a soldering iron with copper wire on the tip. A visual inspection revealed a burnt element - unsolder it and select the appropriate one according to the markings. There are no visible damages - this is more difficult. You will have to solder all the parts and ring them separately. Having found a burnt one, we replace it with a functional one. It is convenient to use tweezers for this.
Helpful advice! You should not remove all elements from the printed circuit board at the same time. They are similar in appearance, you can later confuse the location. It is better to unsolder the elements one by one and, after checking, mount them in place.
How to check and replace the power supply of LED lamps
When installing lighting in rooms with high humidity (or), stabilizing ones are used, which reduce the voltage to a safe one (12 or 24 volts). The stabilizer can fail for several reasons. The main ones are excessive load (power consumption of luminaires) or incorrect selection of the unit’s degree of protection. Such devices are repaired in specialized services. At home, this is unrealistic without equipment and knowledge in the field of radio electronics. In this case, the power supply will have to be replaced.
LED power supply
Very important! All work to replace the stabilizing LED power supply is carried out with the voltage removed. Don't rely on the switch - it may not be connected correctly. The voltage is turned off in the apartment's distribution panel. Remember that touching live parts with your hand is dangerous.
You need to pay attention to the technical characteristics of the device - the power must exceed the parameters of the lamps that are powered from it. Having disconnected the failed unit, we connect a new one according to the diagram. It is located in the technical documentation of the device. This does not present any difficulties - all wires are color-coded, and the contacts are labeled with letters.
The degree of protection of the device (IP) also plays a role. For a bathroom, the device must be marked at least IP45.
Article
Due to low energy consumption, theoretical durability and lower prices, incandescent and energy-saving lamps are rapidly replacing them. But, despite the declared service life of up to 25 years, they often burn out without even serving the warranty period.
Unlike incandescent lamps, 90% of burnt-out LED lamps can be successfully repaired with your own hands, even without special training. The examples presented will help you repair failed LED lamps.
Before you start repairing an LED lamp, you need to understand its structure. Regardless of the appearance and type of LEDs used, all LED lamps, including filament bulbs, are designed the same. If you remove the walls of the lamp housing, you can see the driver inside, which is a printed circuit board with radio elements installed on it.
Any LED lamp is designed and works as follows. The supply voltage from the contacts of the electric cartridge is supplied to the terminals of the base. Two wires are soldered to it, through which voltage is supplied to the driver input. From the driver, the DC supply voltage is supplied to the board on which the LEDs are soldered.
The driver is an electronic unit - a current generator that converts the supply voltage into the current required to light the LEDs.
Sometimes, to diffuse light or protect against human contact with unprotected conductors of a board with LEDs, it is covered with diffusing protective glass.
About filament lamps
In appearance, a filament lamp is similar to an incandescent lamp. The design of filament lamps differs from LED lamps in that they do not use a board with LEDs as light emitters, but a sealed glass flask filled with gas, in which one or more filament rods are placed. The driver is located in the base.
The filament rod is a glass or sapphire tube with a diameter of about 2 mm and a length of about 30 mm, on which 28 miniature LEDs coated in series with a phosphor are attached and connected. One filament consumes about 1 W of power. My operating experience shows that filament lamps are much more reliable than those made on the basis of SMD LEDs. I believe that over time they will replace all other artificial light sources.
Examples of LED lamp repairs
Attention, the electrical circuits of LED lamp drivers are galvanically connected to the phase of the electrical network and therefore care should be taken. Touching exposed parts of a circuit connected to an electrical outlet may result in electric shock.
LED lamp repair
ASD LED-A60, 11 W on SM2082 chip
Currently, powerful LED light bulbs have appeared, the drivers of which are assembled on SM2082 type chips. One of them worked for less than a year and ended up being repaired. The light went out randomly and came on again. When you tapped it, it responded with light or extinguishing. It became obvious that the problem was poor contact.
To get to the electronic part of the lamp, you need to use a knife to pick up the diffuser glass at the point of contact with the body. Sometimes it is difficult to separate the glass, since when it is seated, silicone is applied to the fixing ring.
After removing the light-scattering glass, access to the LEDs and the SM2082 current generator microcircuit became available. In this lamp, one part of the driver was mounted on an aluminum LED printed circuit board, and the second on a separate one.
An external inspection did not reveal any defective soldering or broken tracks. I had to remove the board with LEDs. To do this, the silicone was first cut off and the board was pryed off by the edge with a screwdriver blade.
To get to the driver located in the lamp body, I had to unsolder it by heating two contacts with a soldering iron at the same time and moving it to the right.
On one side of the driver circuit board, only an electrolytic capacitor with a capacity of 6.8 μF for a voltage of 400 V was installed.
A diode bridge and two series-connected resistors with a nominal value of 510 kOhm were installed on the reverse side of the driver board.
In order to figure out which of the boards the contact was missing, we had to connect them, observing the polarity, using two wires. After tapping the boards with the handle of a screwdriver, it became obvious that the fault lies in the board with the capacitor or in the contacts of the wires coming from the base of the LED lamp.
Since the soldering did not raise any suspicions, I first checked the reliability of the contact in the central terminal of the base. It can be easily removed if you pry it over the edge with a knife blade. But the contact was reliable. Just in case, I tinned the wire with solder.
It is difficult to remove the screw part of the base, so I decided to use a soldering iron to solder the soldering wires coming from the base. When I touched one of the soldering joints, the wire became exposed. A “cold” solder was detected. Since there was no way to get to the wire to strip it, I had to lubricate it with FIM active flux and then solder it again.
After assembly, the LED lamp consistently emitted light, despite hitting it with the handle of a screwdriver. Checking the light flux for pulsations showed that they are significant with a frequency of 100 Hz. Such an LED lamp can only be installed in luminaires for general lighting.
Driver circuit diagram
LED lamp ASD LED-A60 on SM2082 chip
The electrical circuit of the ASD LED-A60 lamp, thanks to the use of a specialized SM2082 microcircuit in the driver to stabilize the current, turned out to be quite simple.
The driver circuit works as follows. The AC supply voltage is supplied through fuse F to the rectifier diode bridge assembled on the MB6S microassembly. Electrolytic capacitor C1 smoothes out ripples, and R1 serves to discharge it when the power is turned off.
From the positive terminal of the capacitor, the supply voltage is supplied directly to the LEDs connected in series. From the output of the last LED, the voltage is supplied to the input (pin 1) of the SM2082 microcircuit, the current in the microcircuit is stabilized and then from its output (pin 2) goes to the negative terminal of capacitor C1.
Resistor R2 sets the amount of current flowing through the HL LEDs. The amount of current is inversely proportional to its rating. If the value of the resistor is decreased, the current will increase; if the value is increased, the current will decrease. The SM2082 microcircuit allows you to adjust the current value with a resistor from 5 to 60 mA.
LED lamp repair
ASD LED-A60, 11 W, 220 V, E27
The repair included another ASD LED-A60 LED lamp, similar in appearance and with the same technical characteristics as the one repaired above.
When turned on, the lamp came on for a moment and then did not shine. This behavior of LED lamps is usually associated with a driver failure. So I immediately started disassembling the lamp.
The light-scattering glass was removed with great difficulty, since along the entire line of contact with the body it was, despite the presence of a retainer, generously lubricated with silicone. To separate the glass, I had to look for a pliable place along the entire line of contact with the body using a knife, but still there was a crack in the body.
To gain access to the lamp driver, the next step was to remove the LED printed circuit board, which was pressed along the contour into the aluminum insert. Despite the fact that the board was aluminum and could be removed without fear of cracks, all attempts were unsuccessful. The board held tight.
It was also not possible to remove the board together with the aluminum insert, since it fit tightly to the case and was seated with the outer surface on silicone.
I decided to try removing the driver board from the base side. To do this, first, a knife was pryed out of the base and the central contact was removed. To remove the threaded part of the base, it was necessary to slightly bend its upper flange so that the core points would disengage from the base.
The driver became accessible and was freely extended to a certain position, but it was not possible to remove it completely, although the conductors from the LED board were sealed off.
The LED board had a hole in the center. I decided to try to remove the driver board by hitting its end through a metal rod threaded through this hole. The board moved a few centimeters and hit something. After further blows, the lamp body cracked along the ring and the board with the base of the base separated.
As it turned out, the board had an extension whose shoulders rested against the lamp body. It looks like the board was shaped this way to limit movement, although it would have been enough to fix it with a drop of silicone. Then the driver would be removed from either side of the lamp.
The 220 V voltage from the lamp base is supplied through a resistor - fuse FU to the MB6F rectifier bridge and is then smoothed out by an electrolytic capacitor. Next, the voltage is supplied to the SIC9553 chip, which stabilizes the current. Parallel connected resistors R20 and R80 between pins 1 and 8 MS set the amount of LED supply current.
The photo shows a typical electrical circuit diagram provided by the manufacturer of the SIC9553 chip in the Chinese datasheet.
This photo shows the appearance of the LED lamp driver from the installation side of the output elements. Since space allowed, to reduce the pulsation coefficient of the light flux, the capacitor at the driver output was soldered to 6.8 μF instead of 4.7 μF.
If you have to remove the drivers from the body of this lamp model and cannot remove the LED board, you can use a jigsaw to cut the lamp body around the circumference just above the screw part of the base.
In the end, all my efforts to remove the driver turned out to be useful only for understanding the LED lamp structure. The driver turned out to be OK.
The flash of the LEDs at the moment of switching on was caused by a breakdown in the crystal of one of them as a result of a voltage surge when the driver was started, which misled me. It was necessary to ring the LEDs first.
An attempt to test the LEDs with a multimeter was unsuccessful. The LEDs did not light up. It turned out that two light-emitting crystals connected in series are installed in one case, and in order for the LED to start flowing current, it is necessary to apply a voltage of 8 V to it.
A multimeter or tester turned on in resistance measurement mode produces a voltage within 3-4 V. I had to check the LEDs using a power supply, supplying 12 V to each LED through a 1 kOhm current-limiting resistor.
There was no replacement LED available, so the pads were shorted with a drop of solder instead. This is safe for driver operation, and the power of the LED lamp will decrease by only 0.7 W, which is almost imperceptible.
After repairing the electrical part of the LED lamp, the cracked body was glued with quick-drying Moment super glue, the seams were smoothed by melting the plastic with a soldering iron and leveled with sandpaper.
Just for fun, I did some measurements and calculations. The current flowing through the LEDs was 58 mA, the voltage was 8 V. Therefore, the power supplied to one LED was 0.46 W. With 16 LEDs, the result is 7.36 W, instead of the declared 11 W. Perhaps the manufacturer has indicated the total power consumption of the lamp, taking into account losses in the driver.
The service life of the ASD LED-A60, 11 W, 220 V, E27 LED lamp declared by the manufacturer raises serious doubts in my mind. In the small volume of the plastic lamp body, with low thermal conductivity, significant power is released - 11 W. As a result, the LEDs and driver operate at the maximum permissible temperature, which leads to accelerated degradation of their crystals and, as a consequence, to a sharp reduction in their time between failures.
LED lamp repair
LED smd B35 827 ERA, 7 W on BP2831A chip
An acquaintance shared with me that he bought five light bulbs like in the photo below, and after a month they all stopped working. He managed to throw away three of them, and, at my request, brought two for repairs.
The light bulb worked, but instead of bright light it emitted a flickering weak light with a frequency of several times per second. I immediately assumed that the electrolytic capacitor had swollen; usually, if it fails, the lamp begins to emit light like a strobe.
The light-scattering glass came off easily, it was not glued. It was fixed by a slot on its rim and a protrusion in the lamp body.
The driver was secured using two solders to a printed circuit board with LEDs, as in one of the lamps described above.
A typical driver circuit on the BP2831A chip taken from the datasheet is shown in the photograph. The driver board was removed and all simple radio elements were checked; they all turned out to be in good order. I had to start checking the LEDs.
The LEDs in the lamp were installed of an unknown type with two crystals in the housing and inspection did not reveal any defects. By connecting the leads of each LED in series, I quickly identified the faulty one and replaced it with a drop of solder, as in the photo.
The light bulb worked for a week and was repaired again. Shorted the next LED. A week later I had to short-circuit another LED, and after the fourth I threw out the light bulb because I was tired of repairing it.
The reason for the failure of light bulbs of this design is obvious. LEDs overheat due to insufficient heat sink surface, and their service life is reduced to hundreds of hours.
Why is it permissible to short-circuit the terminals of burnt-out LEDs in LED lamps?
The LED lamp driver, unlike a constant voltage power supply, produces a stabilized current value at the output, not a voltage. Therefore, regardless of the load resistance within the specified limits, the current will always be constant and, therefore, the voltage drop across each of the LEDs will remain the same.
Therefore, as the number of series-connected LEDs in the circuit decreases, the voltage at the driver output will also decrease proportionally.
For example, if 50 LEDs are connected in series to the driver, and each of them drops a voltage of 3 V, then the voltage at the driver output is 150 V, and if you short-circuit 5 of them, the voltage will drop to 135 V, and the current will not change.
But the efficiency of the driver assembled according to this scheme will be low and the power loss will be more than 50%. For example, for an LED light bulb MR-16-2835-F27 you will need a 6.1 kOhm resistor with a power of 4 watts. It turns out that the resistor driver will consume power that exceeds the power consumption of LEDs and placing it in a small LED lamp housing, due to the release of more heat, will be unacceptable.
But if there is no other way to repair an LED lamp and it is very necessary, then the resistor driver can be placed in a separate housing; anyway, the power consumption of such an LED lamp will be four times less than incandescent lamps. It should be noted that the more LEDs connected in series in a light bulb, the higher the efficiency will be. With 80 series-connected SMD3528 LEDs, you will need an 800 Ohm resistor with a power of only 0.5 W. The capacitance of capacitor C1 will need to be increased to 4.7 µF.
Finding faulty LEDs
After removing the protective glass, it becomes possible to check the LEDs without peeling off the printed circuit board. First of all, a careful inspection of each LED is carried out. If even the smallest black dot is detected, not to mention blackening of the entire surface of the LED, then it is definitely faulty.
When inspecting the appearance of the LEDs, you need to carefully examine the quality of the soldering of their terminals. One of the light bulbs being repaired turned out to have four LEDs that were poorly soldered.
The photo shows a light bulb that had very small black dots on its four LEDs. I immediately marked the faulty LEDs with crosses so that they were clearly visible.
Faulty LEDs may not have any changes in appearance. Therefore, it is necessary to check each LED with a multimeter or pointer tester turned on in resistance measurement mode.
There are LED lamps in which standard LEDs are installed in appearance, in the housing of which two crystals connected in series are mounted at once. For example, lamps of the ASD LED-A60 series. To test such LEDs, it is necessary to apply a voltage of more than 6 V to its terminals, and any multimeter produces no more than 4 V. Therefore, checking such LEDs can only be done by applying a voltage of more than 6 (recommended 9-12) V to them from the power source through a 1 kOhm resistor .
The LED is checked like a regular diode; in one direction the resistance should be equal to tens of megaohms, and if you swap the probes (this changes the polarity of the voltage supply to the LED), then it should be small, and the LED may glow dimly.
When checking and replacing LEDs, the lamp must be fixed. To do this, you can use a suitable sized round jar.
You can check the serviceability of the LED without an additional DC source. But this verification method is possible if the light bulb driver is working properly. To do this, it is necessary to apply supply voltage to the base of the LED light bulb and short-circuit the terminals of each LED in series with each other using a wire jumper or, for example, the jaws of metal tweezers.
If suddenly all the LEDs light up, it means that the shorted one is definitely faulty. This method is suitable if only one LED in the circuit is faulty. With this method of checking, it is necessary to take into account that if the driver does not provide galvanic isolation from the electrical network, as for example in the diagrams above, then touching the LED solders with your hand is unsafe.
If one or even several LEDs turn out to be faulty and there is nothing to replace them with, then you can simply short-circuit the contact pads to which the LEDs were soldered. The light bulb will work with the same success, only the luminous flux will decrease slightly.
Other malfunctions of LED lamps
If checking the LEDs showed their serviceability, then the reason for the light bulb’s inoperability lies in the driver or in the soldering areas of the current-carrying conductors.
For example, in this light bulb a cold solder connection was found on the conductor supplying power to the printed circuit board. The soot released due to poor soldering even settled on the conductive paths of the printed circuit board. The soot was easily removed by wiping with a rag soaked in alcohol. The wire was soldered, stripped, tinned and re-soldered into the board. I was lucky with the repair of this light bulb.
Of the ten failed bulbs, only one had a faulty driver and a broken diode bridge. The driver repair consisted of replacing the diode bridge with four IN4007 diodes, designed for a reverse voltage of 1000 V and a current of 1 A.
Soldering SMD LEDs
To replace a faulty LED, it must be desoldered without damaging the printed conductors. You also need to remove the replacement LED from the donor board without damaging it.
It is almost impossible to desolder SMD LEDs with a simple soldering iron without damaging their housing. But if you use a special tip for a soldering iron or put an attachment made of copper wire on a standard tip, then the problem can be easily solved.
LEDs have polarity and when replacing, you need to install it correctly on the printed circuit board. Typically, printed conductors follow the shape of the leads on the LED. Therefore, a mistake can only be made if you are inattentive. To seal an LED, it is enough to install it on a printed circuit board and heat its ends with the contact pads with a 10-15 W soldering iron.
If the LED burns out like carbon, and the printed circuit board underneath is charred, then before installing a new LED, you must clean this area of the printed circuit board from burning, since it is a current conductor. When cleaning, you may find that the LED solder pads are burnt or peeled off.
In this case, the LED can be installed by soldering it to adjacent LEDs if the printed traces lead to them. To do this, you can take a piece of thin wire, bend it in half or three times, depending on the distance between the LEDs, tin it and solder it to them.
Repair of LED lamp series "LL-CORN" (corn lamp)
E27 4.6W 36x5050SMD
The design of the lamp, which is popularly called a corn lamp, shown in the photo below differs from the lamp described above, therefore the repair technology is different.
The design of LED SMD lamps of this type is very convenient for repair, since there is access to test the LEDs and replace them without disassembling the lamp body. True, I still disassembled the light bulb for fun in order to study its structure.
Checking the LEDs of an LED corn lamp is no different from the technology described above, but we must take into account that the SMD5050 LED housing contains three LEDs at once, usually connected in parallel (three dark points of the crystals are visible on the yellow circle), and during testing all three should glow.
A faulty LED can be replaced with a new one or short-circuited with a jumper. This will not affect the reliability of the lamp, only the luminous flux will decrease slightly, unnoticeably to the eye.
The driver of this lamp is assembled according to the simplest circuit, without an isolating transformer, so touching the LED terminals when the lamp is on is unacceptable. Lamps of this design must not be installed in lamps that can be reached by children.
If all the LEDs are working, it means the driver is faulty, and the lamp will have to be disassembled to get to it.
To do this, you need to remove the rim from the side opposite the base. Using a small screwdriver or a knife blade, try in a circle to find the weak spot where the rim is glued the worst. If the rim gives way, then using the tool as a lever, the rim will easily come off around the entire perimeter.
The driver was assembled according to the electrical circuit, like the MR-16 lamp, only C1 had a capacity of 1 µF, and C2 - 4.7 µF. Due to the fact that the wires going from the driver to the lamp base were long, the driver was easily removed from the lamp body. After studying its circuit diagram, the driver was inserted back into the housing, and the bezel was glued into place with transparent Moment glue. The failed LED was replaced with a working one.
Repair of LED lamp "LL-CORN" (corn lamp)
E27 12W 80x5050SMD
When repairing a more powerful lamp, 12 W, there were no failed LEDs of the same design and in order to get to the drivers, we had to open the lamp using the technology described above.
This lamp gave me a surprise. The wires leading from the driver to the socket were short, and it was impossible to remove the driver from the lamp body for repair. I had to remove the base.
The lamp base was made of aluminum, cored around the circumference and held tightly. I had to drill out the mounting points with a 1.5 mm drill. After this, the base, pryed off with a knife, was easily removed.
But you can do without drilling the base if you use the edge of a knife to pry it around the circumference and slightly bend its upper edge. You should first put a mark on the base and body so that the base can be conveniently installed in place. To securely fasten the base after repairing the lamp, it will be enough to put it on the lamp body in such a way that the punched points on the base fall into the old places. Next, press these points with a sharp object.
Two wires were connected to the thread with a clamp, and the other two were pressed into the central contact of the base. I had to cut these wires.
As expected, there were two identical drivers, feeding 43 diodes each. They were covered with heat shrink tubing and taped together. In order for the driver to be placed back into the tube, I usually carefully cut it along the printed circuit board from the side where the parts are installed.
After repair, the driver is wrapped in a tube, which is fixed with a plastic tie or wrapped with several turns of thread.
In the electrical circuit of the driver of this lamp, protection elements are already installed, C1 for protection against pulse surges and R2, R3 for protection against current surges. When checking the elements, resistors R2 were immediately found to be open on both drivers. It appears that the LED lamp was supplied with a voltage that exceeded the permissible voltage. After replacing the resistors, I didn’t have a 10 ohm one at hand, so I set it to 5.1 ohms, and the lamp started working.
Repair of LED lamp series "LLB" LR-EW5N-5
The appearance of this type of light bulb inspires confidence. Aluminum body, high quality workmanship, beautiful design.
The design of the light bulb is such that disassembling it without the use of significant physical effort is impossible. Since the repair of any LED lamp begins with checking the serviceability of the LEDs, the first thing we had to do was remove the plastic protective glass.
The glass was fixed without glue on a groove made in the radiator with a collar inside it. To remove the glass, you need to use the end of a screwdriver, which will go between the fins of the radiator, to lean on the end of the radiator and, like a lever, lift the glass up.
Checking the LEDs with a tester showed that they are working properly, therefore, the driver is faulty and we need to get to it. The aluminum board was secured with four screws, which I unscrewed.
But contrary to expectations, behind the board there was a radiator plane, lubricated with heat-conducting paste. The board had to be returned to its place and the lamp continued to be disassembled from the base side.
Due to the fact that the plastic part to which the radiator was attached was held very tightly, I decided to go the proven route, remove the base and remove the driver through the opened hole for repair. I drilled out the core points, but the base was not removed. It turned out that it was still attached to the plastic due to the threaded connection.
I had to separate the plastic adapter from the radiator. It held up just like the protective glass. To do this, a cut was made with a hacksaw for metal at the junction of the plastic with the radiator and by turning a screwdriver with a wide blade, the parts were separated from each other.
After unsoldering the leads from the LED printed circuit board, the driver became available for repair. The driver circuit turned out to be more complex than previous light bulbs, with an isolation transformer and a microcircuit. One of the 400 V 4.7 µF electrolytic capacitors was swollen. I had to replace it.
A check of all semiconductor elements revealed a faulty Schottky diode D4 (pictured below on the left). There was an SS110 Schottky diode on the board, which was replaced with an existing analog 10 BQ100 (100 V, 1 A). The forward resistance of Schottky diodes is two times less than that of ordinary diodes. The LED light came on. The second light bulb had the same problem.
Repair of LED lamp series "LLB" LR-EW5N-3
This LED lamp is very similar in appearance to the "LLB" LR-EW5N-5, but its design is slightly different.
If you look closely, you can see that at the junction between the aluminum radiator and the spherical glass, unlike the LR-EW5N-5, there is a ring in which the glass is secured. To remove the protective glass, use a small screwdriver to pry it at the junction with the ring.
Three nine super-bright crystal LEDs are installed on an aluminum printed circuit board. The board is screwed to the heatsink with three screws. Checking the LEDs showed their serviceability. Therefore, the driver needs to be repaired. Having experience in repairing a similar LED lamp "LLB" LR-EW5N-5, I did not unscrew the screws, but unsoldered the current-carrying wires coming from the driver and continued disassembling the lamp from the base side.
The plastic connecting ring between the base and the radiator was removed with great difficulty. At the same time, part of it broke off. As it turned out, it was screwed to the radiator with three self-tapping screws. The driver was easily removed from the lamp body.
The screws that fasten the plastic ring of the base are covered by the driver, and it is difficult to see them, but they are on the same axis with the thread to which the transition part of the radiator is screwed. Therefore, you can reach them with a thin Phillips screwdriver.
The driver turned out to be assembled according to a transformer circuit. Checking all elements except the microcircuit did not reveal any failures. Consequently, the microcircuit is faulty; I couldn’t even find a mention of its type on the Internet. The LED light bulb could not be repaired; it will be useful for spare parts. But I studied its structure.
Repair of LED lamp series "LL" GU10-3W
At first glance, it turned out to be impossible to disassemble a burnt-out GU10-3W LED light bulb with protective glass. An attempt to remove the glass resulted in its chipping. When great force was applied, the glass cracked.
By the way, in the lamp marking, the letter G means that the lamp has a pin base, the letter U means that the lamp belongs to the class of energy-saving light bulbs, and the number 10 means the distance between the pins in millimeters.
LED light bulbs with a GU10 base have special pins and are installed in a socket with a rotation. Thanks to the expanding pins, the LED lamp is pinched in the socket and held securely even when shaking.
In order to disassemble this LED light bulb, I had to drill a hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in its aluminum case at the level of the surface of the printed circuit board. The drilling location must be chosen in such a way that the drill does not damage the LED when exiting. If you don’t have a drill at hand, you can make a hole with a thick awl.
Next, a small screwdriver is inserted into the hole and, acting like a lever, the glass is lifted. I removed the glass from two light bulbs without any problems. If checking the LEDs with a tester shows their serviceability, then the printed circuit board is removed.
After separating the board from the lamp body, it immediately became obvious that the current-limiting resistors had burned out in both one and the other lamp. The calculator determined their nominal value from the stripes, 160 Ohms. Since the resistors burned out in LED bulbs of different batches, it is obvious that their power, judging by the size of 0.25 W, does not correspond to the power released when the driver operates at the maximum ambient temperature.
The driver circuit board was well filled with silicone, and I did not disconnect it from the board with the LEDs. I cut off the leads of the burnt resistors at the base and soldered them to more powerful resistors that were on hand. In one lamp I soldered a 150 Ohm resistor with a power of 1 W, in the second two in parallel with 320 Ohms with a power of 0.5 W.
In order to prevent accidental contact of the resistor terminal, to which the mains voltage is connected, with the metal body of the lamp, it was insulated with a drop of hot-melt adhesive. It is waterproof and an excellent insulator. I often use it to seal, insulate and secure electrical wires and other parts.
Hot melt adhesive is available in the form of rods with a diameter of 7, 12, 15 and 24 mm in different colors, from transparent to black. It melts, depending on the brand, at a temperature of 80-150°, which allows it to be melted using an electric soldering iron. It is enough to cut a piece of the rod, place it in the right place and heat it. Hot-melt glue will acquire the consistency of May honey. After cooling it becomes hard again. When reheated, it becomes liquid again.
After replacing the resistors, the functionality of both bulbs was restored. All that remains is to secure the printed circuit board and protective glass in the lamp body.
When repairing LED lamps, I used liquid nails “Mounting” to secure printed circuit boards and plastic parts. The glue is odorless, adheres well to the surfaces of any materials, remains plastic after drying, and has sufficient heat resistance.
It is enough to take a small amount of glue on the end of a screwdriver and apply it to the places where the parts come into contact. After 15 minutes the glue will already hold.
When gluing the printed circuit board, in order not to wait, holding the board in place, since the wires were pushing it out, I additionally fixed the board at several points using hot glue.
The LED lamp began to flash like a strobe light
I had to repair a couple of LED lamps with drivers assembled on a microcircuit, the malfunction of which was the light blinking at a frequency of about one hertz, like in a strobe light.
One instance of the LED lamp began to blink immediately after being turned on for the first few seconds and then the lamp began to shine normally. Over time, the duration of the lamp's blinking after switching on began to increase, and the lamp began to blink continuously. The second instance of the LED lamp suddenly began blinking continuously.
After disassembling the lamps, it turned out that the electrolytic capacitors installed immediately after the rectifier bridges in the drivers had failed. It was easy to determine the malfunction, since the capacitor housings were swollen. But even if the capacitor looks free of external defects in appearance, then the repair of an LED light bulb with a stroboscopic effect must still begin with its replacement.
After replacing the electrolytic capacitors with working ones, the stroboscopic effect disappeared and the lamps began to shine normally.
Online calculators for determining resistor values
by color marking
When repairing LED lamps, it becomes necessary to determine the resistor value. According to the standard, modern resistors are marked by applying colored rings to their bodies. 4 colored rings are applied to simple resistors, and 5 to high-precision resistors.
As I wrote before, I love all sorts of luminous things) And after I read the review of this lamp, I decided to order one for myself. I plan to use it at house parties. But upon receipt I was a little disappointed...
But more on that later…
For those who are not yet familiar with the principle of operation of the lamp, I will describe it: inside there is a circuit with three LEDs: red, green and blue. They light constantly, and the upper part of the lamp rotates using a motor and has a crystalline surface, which, when moving, refracts the light at different angles. The effect of movement is created, in appearance it is very reminiscent of disco color music. This is what it looks like in action:
This is her box: 
Made quite well, the plastic is dense. During the first installation, it slipped out of my hands and fell from a 2-meter height onto the tile. I stood on the chair in horror and thought that it was a shame that I didn’t even check on her. But when I picked it up, I didn’t find any scratches on it, and when connected, it started working as if nothing had happened.
During operation, a slight buzzing of the motor is heard, which becomes inaudible at a distance of a couple of meters, or is drowned out by quiet music.
Additional information: “illumination angle” - 120 degrees. Electricity consumption - 3W, 1W for each LED.
I wanted to take it apart, but it didn’t work out, but I took a photo of the diagram through the glass. It's not very visible, but it still gives an idea of how the lamp works. 
More photos 
Now for the disappointment. When ordering the lamp, I did not pay attention to the dimensions stated on the website. But in vain)) It turned out to be simply huge, so a video of an example of work had to be filmed in the toilet))) It did not fit into any lamp in the apartment)) Here you can see how much larger it is than an ordinary light bulb: 
She's huge. Not what I expected to see upon receipt)) When I received the package in the mail, I thought for a long time about what they sent me - I didn’t even think about the light bulb. 
In addition, the “baby” also weighs impressively and may not fit some lamps in terms of weight: 
In general, now you need to buy some kind of table lamp or build a simple one yourself from a socket and available materials. Despite the surprise in the form of the size of the lamp, I am happy with the purchase.
P.S The lamp does not have a sound indication, that is, it is constantly on - it does not blink with music.
I'm planning to buy +28 Add to favorites I liked the review +22 +45
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